A Complete Guide To Growing
Our Flowers Varieties
Alyssum, Sweet:
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum
Germination:
Direct sow in spring, after the soil warms. Press the seed into the surface of the soil, since it needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination. The seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Keep the soil lightly moist, and transplant the seedlings as soon as there is no chance of frost
Crop Care:
Keep the plants watered since they do not appreciate dry soil. To encourage rebloom, cut the plant back by one-third. In the heat of summer, blooming will decrease. This plant makes an excellent ground cover or container plant and attracts butterflies and bees. It may reseed in good growing conditions.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, the plant will produce seed pods. Watch the pods carefully, since they eventually split and release their seeds. Harvest the seeds as soon as they ripen to their mature light brown color. The entire plant can also be removed and spread out to dry, and the seeds removed from the pods. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
The young leaves, stems, and flowers of Sweet Alyssum are sometimes used to flavor or decorate many dishes. For starters, it can be added to something easy such as a salad, or an omelet, or added to soups. Sweet Alyssum flowers candy very well or you can freeze them in water and make jazzy ice cubes! Finally, you can dress up any dish or snack tray by adding Sweet Alyssum as a garnish.
Medicinal:
Sweet Alyssum is used for many medicinal purposes. It is used to treat common cold, abdominal pain, and coughs. It also is used in the treatment of rabies. Mostly, it is used in managing disorders associated with the retention of fluids such as edema and ascites because it helps eliminate excess water from the body.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Sweet Alyssum is a great companion plant for Petunia, Dianthus, Dichondra, Geraniums, Pansies, Strawflower, Persian Shield, Dusty Miller, Osteospermum, Calibrachoa, Black-Eyed Susan's, Lavender, and Gaillardia,
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Damping off is an occasional problem with seedlings.
Direct sow in spring, after the soil warms. Press the seed into the surface of the soil, since it needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination. The seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Keep the soil lightly moist, and transplant the seedlings as soon as there is no chance of frost
Crop Care:
Keep the plants watered since they do not appreciate dry soil. To encourage rebloom, cut the plant back by one-third. In the heat of summer, blooming will decrease. This plant makes an excellent ground cover or container plant and attracts butterflies and bees. It may reseed in good growing conditions.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, the plant will produce seed pods. Watch the pods carefully, since they eventually split and release their seeds. Harvest the seeds as soon as they ripen to their mature light brown color. The entire plant can also be removed and spread out to dry, and the seeds removed from the pods. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
The young leaves, stems, and flowers of Sweet Alyssum are sometimes used to flavor or decorate many dishes. For starters, it can be added to something easy such as a salad, or an omelet, or added to soups. Sweet Alyssum flowers candy very well or you can freeze them in water and make jazzy ice cubes! Finally, you can dress up any dish or snack tray by adding Sweet Alyssum as a garnish.
Medicinal:
Sweet Alyssum is used for many medicinal purposes. It is used to treat common cold, abdominal pain, and coughs. It also is used in the treatment of rabies. Mostly, it is used in managing disorders associated with the retention of fluids such as edema and ascites because it helps eliminate excess water from the body.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Sweet Alyssum is a great companion plant for Petunia, Dianthus, Dichondra, Geraniums, Pansies, Strawflower, Persian Shield, Dusty Miller, Osteospermum, Calibrachoa, Black-Eyed Susan's, Lavender, and Gaillardia,
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Damping off is an occasional problem with seedlings.
Baby Black Eyes & Baby Blue Eyes
How To Grow Baby Black/Blue Eyes
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, pressing lightly into the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin, or transplant for a wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Keep the young plants watered until they become established; mature plants tolerate drought well, though they will benefit from occasional watering. This annual grows quickly and dies with the first frost, though it may reseed for a new crop next year. Its neat, sprawling growth habit makes it an excellent choice for massed plantings, containers, and borders. Keep in mind that this plant does not do well in excessive heat and dislikes being transplanted. These blooms attract butterflies and bees.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open at the top to reveal the ripe seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have opened; watch them carefully to prevent loss. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
This species works very well with other annual or herbaceous perennial wildflowers in a meadow garden, including the closely related Five Spot (Nemophila maculata), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Clarkia sp., Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Gilia sp., Lupinus sp., Penstemon sp., Phacelia sp., and many others. Also works well with geophytes such as Brodiaea sp., Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), and Dichelostemma sp., as well as various cactus and succulent species such as Dudleya sp.
Direct sow in early spring, pressing lightly into the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin, or transplant for a wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Keep the young plants watered until they become established; mature plants tolerate drought well, though they will benefit from occasional watering. This annual grows quickly and dies with the first frost, though it may reseed for a new crop next year. Its neat, sprawling growth habit makes it an excellent choice for massed plantings, containers, and borders. Keep in mind that this plant does not do well in excessive heat and dislikes being transplanted. These blooms attract butterflies and bees.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open at the top to reveal the ripe seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have opened; watch them carefully to prevent loss. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
This species works very well with other annual or herbaceous perennial wildflowers in a meadow garden, including the closely related Five Spot (Nemophila maculata), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Clarkia sp., Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Gilia sp., Lupinus sp., Penstemon sp., Phacelia sp., and many others. Also works well with geophytes such as Brodiaea sp., Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), and Dichelostemma sp., as well as various cactus and succulent species such as Dudleya sp.
Baby's Breath
How to grow Baby's Breath
Germination:
To start your Baby's Breath seeds indoors, sow your seeds in 2" Soil Blocks 4-6 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Keep your soil lightly moist until germination, which usually occurs in 10-15 days. Baby's Breath will begin to bloom in about 4 weeks from seed, for about 6 weeks. Be sure to sow them every couple of weeks for continued blooms all summer.
Transplant your Baby's Breath seedlings outdoors into rich, light soils, 8-10" apart, as soon as the weather allows.
To direct sow your Baby's Breath seeds in spring, wait until after the soil has warmed to about 70 degrees F. Press your seed into the soil’s surface, since it requires light to sprout. Keep the soil moist until it germinates, which usually occurs in 10-15 days.
Crop Care:
Baby's Breath grows quickly and grows best with regular watering as it develops its blooms. Once mature, the Baby's Breath can tolerate some drought. It will begin to bloom in about 4 weeks from seed, for about 6 weeks. Baby's Breath will self-seed readily, though cutting the foliage down to ground level after blooming will prevent this. Baby's Breath also attracts bees and butterflies and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. These flowers also dry well.
Seed Saving:
After blooming, each flower will develop a small round seed pod. It will self-seed readily though cutting the foliage down to ground level after blooming will prevent this. As soon as the pods dry and contain mature black seeds, shake them over a container to remove the seed. The entire plant can also be cut several inches above ground level and hung upside down, to allow the seed to fall as the plant dries.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Japanese Anemone, Bleeding Heart, Dwarf Delphinium, Foxglove, Gayfeather, Garden Phlox, Oriental Poppy, Russian Sage, Shasta Daisy
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Some susceptibility to botrytis and aster yellows. May need staking or other support.
To start your Baby's Breath seeds indoors, sow your seeds in 2" Soil Blocks 4-6 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Keep your soil lightly moist until germination, which usually occurs in 10-15 days. Baby's Breath will begin to bloom in about 4 weeks from seed, for about 6 weeks. Be sure to sow them every couple of weeks for continued blooms all summer.
Transplant your Baby's Breath seedlings outdoors into rich, light soils, 8-10" apart, as soon as the weather allows.
To direct sow your Baby's Breath seeds in spring, wait until after the soil has warmed to about 70 degrees F. Press your seed into the soil’s surface, since it requires light to sprout. Keep the soil moist until it germinates, which usually occurs in 10-15 days.
Crop Care:
Baby's Breath grows quickly and grows best with regular watering as it develops its blooms. Once mature, the Baby's Breath can tolerate some drought. It will begin to bloom in about 4 weeks from seed, for about 6 weeks. Baby's Breath will self-seed readily, though cutting the foliage down to ground level after blooming will prevent this. Baby's Breath also attracts bees and butterflies and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. These flowers also dry well.
Seed Saving:
After blooming, each flower will develop a small round seed pod. It will self-seed readily though cutting the foliage down to ground level after blooming will prevent this. As soon as the pods dry and contain mature black seeds, shake them over a container to remove the seed. The entire plant can also be cut several inches above ground level and hung upside down, to allow the seed to fall as the plant dries.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Japanese Anemone, Bleeding Heart, Dwarf Delphinium, Foxglove, Gayfeather, Garden Phlox, Oriental Poppy, Russian Sage, Shasta Daisy
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Some susceptibility to botrytis and aster yellows. May need staking or other support.
Balsam
How to Grow Balsam
Germination:
Direct sow in spring, pressing the seed lightly into the surface of the soil; water carefully to avoid disturbing the seed, and keep consistently moist until germination, which should occur within 7-10 days. To start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before frost, sow the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; keep it lightly moist until germination. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost or when they can safely be handled.
Crop Care:
This plant tolerates some drought but produces the best blossoms in consistently moist, rich soil. It also adapts well to clay soil. Pinch back the stems of young plants to encourage bushiness and branching growth. Plants grown from seed outdoors will bloom in mid to late summer, while plants started indoors may bloom in early summer; they will bloom until frost. Deadhead for the most blooms. This plant will self-sow readily. It makes a good choice for containers or as a border plant and attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Seed Saving:
Because these ripe seed pods explode when touched, the seeds can be challenging to collect. Bagging the pods with small circles of fabric before they ripen can be an effective way to catch the seed. Alternatively, the entire plant can be repeatedly shaken over a container to cause the ripe pods to release the seeds. Clean the seeds as well as possible, then store them in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Shade plants such as hostas, ferns, tiarella, astilbes.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Direct sow in spring, pressing the seed lightly into the surface of the soil; water carefully to avoid disturbing the seed, and keep consistently moist until germination, which should occur within 7-10 days. To start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before frost, sow the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; keep it lightly moist until germination. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost or when they can safely be handled.
Crop Care:
This plant tolerates some drought but produces the best blossoms in consistently moist, rich soil. It also adapts well to clay soil. Pinch back the stems of young plants to encourage bushiness and branching growth. Plants grown from seed outdoors will bloom in mid to late summer, while plants started indoors may bloom in early summer; they will bloom until frost. Deadhead for the most blooms. This plant will self-sow readily. It makes a good choice for containers or as a border plant and attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Seed Saving:
Because these ripe seed pods explode when touched, the seeds can be challenging to collect. Bagging the pods with small circles of fabric before they ripen can be an effective way to catch the seed. Alternatively, the entire plant can be repeatedly shaken over a container to cause the ripe pods to release the seeds. Clean the seeds as well as possible, then store them in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Shade plants such as hostas, ferns, tiarella, astilbes.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Bee Plant
How to grow Bee Plant
Germination:
Starting Bee Plant Seeds Indoors for Spring
To start your Bee Plant indoors for a spring transplant, mix your Bee Plant seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before sowing them on the surface of the soil of a 2" Soil Blocks 6-8 weeks before the last frost date of your area. Keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which should occur within 30-35 days at a temperature of 65 degrees F. The germination rate may be naturally low.
Transplanting Bee Plant Seedlings Outdoors for Spring
Transplant your Bee Plant seedlings 18-20” apart as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Starting Bee Plant Seeds Outdoors for Spring
For spring planting, mix your Bee Plant seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before direct sowing. Keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which should occur within 30-35 days. The germination rate may be naturally low.
Starting Bee Plant Seeds Outdoors in Fall
Direct sow Bee Plant in late fall. Plant the seed just below the surface of the soil. Bee Plant seeds need light to germinate.
Crop Care:
Water the plants regularly until they become established. Mature plants also appreciate watering, though the soil should not be soggy. Remove the tips of the developing stems to encourage branching and bushy growth. As the plant grows, it may need support or staking for protection from the wind. This plant may reseed, but not aggressively. It attracts bees, birds, hummingbirds, and butterflies as well as deterring rabbits and deer.
Seed Saving:
As the flowers fade, the plant will produce drooping 4” pods that ripen to a dark brown; the ripe seed will be light and dark brown. Remove the pods as soon as they ripen to prevent loss, since they will eventually split and release their seed; small birds also enjoy eating the ripe seed. Spread out the pods away from direct sunlight to dry completely. Split the dry pods open and remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Young shoots, leaves, and, flowers are cooked and used as potherbs. The plants were gathered and, after removing an alkaline taste, were eaten with cornmeal porridge. The plant smells like a skunk, but it was an important potherb for the native North American Indians and the early European settlers in America. Seed - raw or cooked. It can be dried and ground into a meal then used as a mush or mixed with flour to make bread etc. Seedpods - cooked. The hardened cakes of dyestuff (see note on the plant's other uses) can be soaked in hot water and then eaten fried.
Medicinal:
An infusion of the plant is drunk in the treatment of fevers and stomach disorders. A poultice made from the pounded, soaked leaves has been applied to sore eyes.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Other Uses:
A black dye is obtained by boiling down the whole plant. It is used as a paint for decorating pottery. The young plants are harvested in mid-summer, boiled well in water, the woody parts of the plant are removed and the decoction is boiled again until it becomes thick and turns black. This thick liquid is then poured onto a board to dry in cakes and can be kept for an indefinite period. When needed it is soaked in hot water until the correct consistency for paint is achieved. A decoction of the leaves has been used as a body and shoe deodorant.
Companion Planting:
Bee Plant is known as the 4th Sister to the traditional 3 Sister Planting Method. Bee Plant's role in this layout is to attract bees and other pollinators. Below are corn's suggested companions and we suggest adding Bee Plant in with the crops listed below.
Allies: The benefits of planting corn with beans have been upheld by scientific research, which showed increased yields when corn was grown with a legume. One study points out that an interplanting of soybeans encourages parasitic Trichogramma wasps, which help control corn earworms. Soybeans or peanuts also increase populations of predatory insects, which help reduce the number of corn borers. Beans and corn are mutually beneficial: Beans help keep fall armyworms in check on corn, notes one study, while corn minimizes leafhoppers on bean plants. Alternate rows of corn and bush beans, two rows of corn to one row of beans. Or plant pole beans to climb corn rows.
Companions: Sunflower borders were a tradition in American Indian gardens. British research indicates that strips of sunflowers alternated with corn will increase yields and decrease infestations of all armyworms. Squash and pumpkins do well in the shade of the corn rows. to make nitrogen and potassium unavailable to corn, even when the area is heavily fertilized. Leached toxins from wheat straw mulch reduced corn yields in farm research by 44-94%.
Starting Bee Plant Seeds Indoors for Spring
To start your Bee Plant indoors for a spring transplant, mix your Bee Plant seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before sowing them on the surface of the soil of a 2" Soil Blocks 6-8 weeks before the last frost date of your area. Keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which should occur within 30-35 days at a temperature of 65 degrees F. The germination rate may be naturally low.
Transplanting Bee Plant Seedlings Outdoors for Spring
Transplant your Bee Plant seedlings 18-20” apart as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Starting Bee Plant Seeds Outdoors for Spring
For spring planting, mix your Bee Plant seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before direct sowing. Keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which should occur within 30-35 days. The germination rate may be naturally low.
Starting Bee Plant Seeds Outdoors in Fall
Direct sow Bee Plant in late fall. Plant the seed just below the surface of the soil. Bee Plant seeds need light to germinate.
Crop Care:
Water the plants regularly until they become established. Mature plants also appreciate watering, though the soil should not be soggy. Remove the tips of the developing stems to encourage branching and bushy growth. As the plant grows, it may need support or staking for protection from the wind. This plant may reseed, but not aggressively. It attracts bees, birds, hummingbirds, and butterflies as well as deterring rabbits and deer.
Seed Saving:
As the flowers fade, the plant will produce drooping 4” pods that ripen to a dark brown; the ripe seed will be light and dark brown. Remove the pods as soon as they ripen to prevent loss, since they will eventually split and release their seed; small birds also enjoy eating the ripe seed. Spread out the pods away from direct sunlight to dry completely. Split the dry pods open and remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Young shoots, leaves, and, flowers are cooked and used as potherbs. The plants were gathered and, after removing an alkaline taste, were eaten with cornmeal porridge. The plant smells like a skunk, but it was an important potherb for the native North American Indians and the early European settlers in America. Seed - raw or cooked. It can be dried and ground into a meal then used as a mush or mixed with flour to make bread etc. Seedpods - cooked. The hardened cakes of dyestuff (see note on the plant's other uses) can be soaked in hot water and then eaten fried.
Medicinal:
An infusion of the plant is drunk in the treatment of fevers and stomach disorders. A poultice made from the pounded, soaked leaves has been applied to sore eyes.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Other Uses:
A black dye is obtained by boiling down the whole plant. It is used as a paint for decorating pottery. The young plants are harvested in mid-summer, boiled well in water, the woody parts of the plant are removed and the decoction is boiled again until it becomes thick and turns black. This thick liquid is then poured onto a board to dry in cakes and can be kept for an indefinite period. When needed it is soaked in hot water until the correct consistency for paint is achieved. A decoction of the leaves has been used as a body and shoe deodorant.
Companion Planting:
Bee Plant is known as the 4th Sister to the traditional 3 Sister Planting Method. Bee Plant's role in this layout is to attract bees and other pollinators. Below are corn's suggested companions and we suggest adding Bee Plant in with the crops listed below.
Allies: The benefits of planting corn with beans have been upheld by scientific research, which showed increased yields when corn was grown with a legume. One study points out that an interplanting of soybeans encourages parasitic Trichogramma wasps, which help control corn earworms. Soybeans or peanuts also increase populations of predatory insects, which help reduce the number of corn borers. Beans and corn are mutually beneficial: Beans help keep fall armyworms in check on corn, notes one study, while corn minimizes leafhoppers on bean plants. Alternate rows of corn and bush beans, two rows of corn to one row of beans. Or plant pole beans to climb corn rows.
Companions: Sunflower borders were a tradition in American Indian gardens. British research indicates that strips of sunflowers alternated with corn will increase yields and decrease infestations of all armyworms. Squash and pumpkins do well in the shade of the corn rows. to make nitrogen and potassium unavailable to corn, even when the area is heavily fertilized. Leached toxins from wheat straw mulch reduced corn yields in farm research by 44-94%.
Bergamot
How to grow Bergamot
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days at temperatures from 60-70 degrees F. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin, or transplant for wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established, but do not overwater. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they will appreciate occasional watering in very dry weather. These plants will reseed themselves in favorable growing conditions and are extremely attractive to bees, hummingbirds, and bees. Deer tend to avoid this plant.
Harvesting:
These flowers make an excellent choice for both fresh and dried floral arrangements. For fresh flowers, choose stems with blooms that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
When the flower spikes begin to dry and turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry; thresh them to remove the seed. Shaking the entire plant's seed heads into a container is also effective, but the process should be repeated daily until all the seed has matured. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are used as a flavoring in salads and cooked foods and also as tea. They have a pleasant lemon flavor.
Other Uses:
Essential oils in the leaves contain phenol and citral. No more information is given, though the oil is likely to have medicinal activity and perhaps be suitable for perfumery etc. The essential oil citronellal, used as an insect repellent and in perfumery, is obtained from this plant.
Companion Planting:
Hummingbird Garden Plants: Bergamot attracts hummingbirds with its red and pink blossoms and its tubular flowers that are naturally suited for a hummingbird's long beak. Other similar flowers include Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), with red and yellow flowers, or silver sage (Salvia argentea,),, with white flowers tinged with red. Both companions also thrive in full sun or partial shade in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Herbs: As a member of the mint family, bergamot leaves have a minty smell and make a pleasant, herbal tea. Bergamot adds color and height to an herb garden and should be planted near the center of the garden surrounded by your preference of shorter herbs grown as annuals, such as basil, thyme, chives, and parsley. Add a perennial herb such as rosemary in USDA plant hardiness zones 7a through 11 for year-round interest in the garden bed.
Colors: Also grown in full sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, bright yellow daylilies would work well planted in the same garden bed with the warm colors of bergamot. For a contrasting accent, midnight blue agapanthus (Agapanthus x "Monmid") adds the cool-blue color in USDA plant hardiness zones 7b through 11.
Shapes: As a 6- to 8-inch ground cover growing around the base of bergamot, the light green leaves and multiple flowers of dwarf annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5a through 11 and come in a variety of colors. The blue-gray leaves of the perennial blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) contrast nicely in both shape and color with bergamot. Blue oat grass thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Problems:
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem with some of the monardas. Susceptibility to foliar diseases in general increases if plants are grown in dry soils or are allowed to dry out.
Direct sow in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days at temperatures from 60-70 degrees F. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin, or transplant for wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established, but do not overwater. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they will appreciate occasional watering in very dry weather. These plants will reseed themselves in favorable growing conditions and are extremely attractive to bees, hummingbirds, and bees. Deer tend to avoid this plant.
Harvesting:
These flowers make an excellent choice for both fresh and dried floral arrangements. For fresh flowers, choose stems with blooms that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
When the flower spikes begin to dry and turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry; thresh them to remove the seed. Shaking the entire plant's seed heads into a container is also effective, but the process should be repeated daily until all the seed has matured. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are used as a flavoring in salads and cooked foods and also as tea. They have a pleasant lemon flavor.
Other Uses:
Essential oils in the leaves contain phenol and citral. No more information is given, though the oil is likely to have medicinal activity and perhaps be suitable for perfumery etc. The essential oil citronellal, used as an insect repellent and in perfumery, is obtained from this plant.
Companion Planting:
Hummingbird Garden Plants: Bergamot attracts hummingbirds with its red and pink blossoms and its tubular flowers that are naturally suited for a hummingbird's long beak. Other similar flowers include Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), with red and yellow flowers, or silver sage (Salvia argentea,),, with white flowers tinged with red. Both companions also thrive in full sun or partial shade in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Herbs: As a member of the mint family, bergamot leaves have a minty smell and make a pleasant, herbal tea. Bergamot adds color and height to an herb garden and should be planted near the center of the garden surrounded by your preference of shorter herbs grown as annuals, such as basil, thyme, chives, and parsley. Add a perennial herb such as rosemary in USDA plant hardiness zones 7a through 11 for year-round interest in the garden bed.
Colors: Also grown in full sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, bright yellow daylilies would work well planted in the same garden bed with the warm colors of bergamot. For a contrasting accent, midnight blue agapanthus (Agapanthus x "Monmid") adds the cool-blue color in USDA plant hardiness zones 7b through 11.
Shapes: As a 6- to 8-inch ground cover growing around the base of bergamot, the light green leaves and multiple flowers of dwarf annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5a through 11 and come in a variety of colors. The blue-gray leaves of the perennial blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) contrast nicely in both shape and color with bergamot. Blue oat grass thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Problems:
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem with some of the monardas. Susceptibility to foliar diseases in general increases if plants are grown in dry soils or are allowed to dry out.
Billy Buttons
How to Grow Billy Buttons
Germination:
Sow your seeds indoors 4 - 6 weeks before the last frost is expected. Sow 3-4 flower seeds per pot on the soil surface and lightly cover them with peat moss or sand. The flower seeds need a temperature between 70 - 75F and light to germinate. Germination should occur in 14 - 21 days.
Your flower seed can also be sown directly outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Prepare a seedbed with loose soil that is free of weeds. Then sow your seeds directly on the surface and lightly sprinkle peat moss or sand on top of them. Keep the flower seeds moist until germination occurs.
Crop Care:
Transplanting Outdoors:
Transplant your seedlings when there are at least 2 sets of true leaves. They prefer full sun and gritty, well-drained soil. Billy Buttons are tolerant of poor soil and drought.
Harvesting:
For best flower quality, harvest your Billy Button when the flower head turns completely yellow and its minute florets open fully. For best stem quality, it's important to harvest the flowers in the early morning hours when it retains the most moisture. Snip the flower stems 1/4" above their bases with clean pruning shears and insert the cut end into a container full of water that is 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit.
Seed Saving:
During the season, the flower heads will begin to turn a dull brown. Snip off entire heads and spread them out in a protected location to prevent the light seed from blowing away. When the heads have completely dried, shake them to remove the seed. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Sow your seeds indoors 4 - 6 weeks before the last frost is expected. Sow 3-4 flower seeds per pot on the soil surface and lightly cover them with peat moss or sand. The flower seeds need a temperature between 70 - 75F and light to germinate. Germination should occur in 14 - 21 days.
Your flower seed can also be sown directly outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Prepare a seedbed with loose soil that is free of weeds. Then sow your seeds directly on the surface and lightly sprinkle peat moss or sand on top of them. Keep the flower seeds moist until germination occurs.
Crop Care:
Transplanting Outdoors:
Transplant your seedlings when there are at least 2 sets of true leaves. They prefer full sun and gritty, well-drained soil. Billy Buttons are tolerant of poor soil and drought.
Harvesting:
For best flower quality, harvest your Billy Button when the flower head turns completely yellow and its minute florets open fully. For best stem quality, it's important to harvest the flowers in the early morning hours when it retains the most moisture. Snip the flower stems 1/4" above their bases with clean pruning shears and insert the cut end into a container full of water that is 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit.
Seed Saving:
During the season, the flower heads will begin to turn a dull brown. Snip off entire heads and spread them out in a protected location to prevent the light seed from blowing away. When the heads have completely dried, shake them to remove the seed. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Black-Eyed Susan
How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, pressing into the surface of the soil since this plant needs light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which usually takes 2-3 weeks. The seeds can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in spring. Keep seedlings lightly moist, and transplant them as soon as they have developed several leaves.
Water seedlings regularly until they become established. This plant grows very quickly and needs little care. Though it grows well in fairly dry soil, it performs best with occasional watering in dry weather. This plant usually begins blooming in its second year of growth. Mature plants tolerate heat, drought, and clay or rocky soils. Deadhead for the longest blooming period. Mature plants can be divided. This plant attracts butterflies and may self-seed.
Crop Care:
Keep soil evenly moist and keep the area well-weeded for the best blooms. Never over-water - the soil should never be soggy.
Water Needs: Moderate. Black Eyed Susan plants require regular watering but never water so much that the soil becomes soggy.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Black Eyed Susan prefers rich soil but will tolerate poor soils of many types.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1/2", regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep the soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, before flowering: before flowering, every 2 weeks. Keep Black Eyed Susan well-weeded, especially while young.
Pruning, after flowering: after flowering, 1 time a week. Remove flowers when they start to fade for continued blooms.
Support: No
Harvesting:
To harvest black-eyed Susan seeds, snip or pull the seed heads off the plants and place them in a brown bag as you walk through the garden. Shake the bag or open the cones to dislodge the seeds from the cones. Sift the seeds and remove any leaves or plant debris.
Seed Saving:
Not all the seeds will be viable, so save more than you think you'll need. Spread the seeds out in a shallow box or cookie tray and store them in a dry location, such as a garage, for several weeks or until the seeds feel completely dry. Package the seeds in a plastic or paper bag, label them, and store them in the refrigerator.
Companion Planting:
Black-eyed Susan looks great with almost any of the native prairie and meadow species, but it looks particularly nice with airy white flowers such as flowering spurge (Euphorbia corallata), White Shasta Daisies, White phlox (Phlox paniculata ‘David’), or Pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea).
They are also well-suited to planting colorful flowers such as the brilliant orange butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), clasping coneflower, purple coneflower, purple Salvia nemorosa, or the deep blue-purple Delphinium exaltatum. Other good companions include lance-leaf coreopsis, butterfly milkweed, gaillardia, Russian sage, stonecrop, and ox-eye daisy. You can use it with daylilies, hollyhock, and aster, as well.
To balance the scale of black-eyed Susans, you can even interplant them with Hosta, or (as they are often used in roadside plantings) plant them with ornamental grasses such as variegated maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus') in drifts. You can even plant them as borders around your rose garden.
Some gardeners plant black-eyed Susan in their vegetable gardens, not only for visual interest but to attract pollinators useful for vegetable growth.
Direct sow in late fall, pressing into the surface of the soil since this plant needs light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which usually takes 2-3 weeks. The seeds can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in spring. Keep seedlings lightly moist, and transplant them as soon as they have developed several leaves.
Water seedlings regularly until they become established. This plant grows very quickly and needs little care. Though it grows well in fairly dry soil, it performs best with occasional watering in dry weather. This plant usually begins blooming in its second year of growth. Mature plants tolerate heat, drought, and clay or rocky soils. Deadhead for the longest blooming period. Mature plants can be divided. This plant attracts butterflies and may self-seed.
Crop Care:
Keep soil evenly moist and keep the area well-weeded for the best blooms. Never over-water - the soil should never be soggy.
Water Needs: Moderate. Black Eyed Susan plants require regular watering but never water so much that the soil becomes soggy.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Black Eyed Susan prefers rich soil but will tolerate poor soils of many types.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1/2", regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep the soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, before flowering: before flowering, every 2 weeks. Keep Black Eyed Susan well-weeded, especially while young.
Pruning, after flowering: after flowering, 1 time a week. Remove flowers when they start to fade for continued blooms.
Support: No
Harvesting:
To harvest black-eyed Susan seeds, snip or pull the seed heads off the plants and place them in a brown bag as you walk through the garden. Shake the bag or open the cones to dislodge the seeds from the cones. Sift the seeds and remove any leaves or plant debris.
Seed Saving:
Not all the seeds will be viable, so save more than you think you'll need. Spread the seeds out in a shallow box or cookie tray and store them in a dry location, such as a garage, for several weeks or until the seeds feel completely dry. Package the seeds in a plastic or paper bag, label them, and store them in the refrigerator.
Companion Planting:
Black-eyed Susan looks great with almost any of the native prairie and meadow species, but it looks particularly nice with airy white flowers such as flowering spurge (Euphorbia corallata), White Shasta Daisies, White phlox (Phlox paniculata ‘David’), or Pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea).
They are also well-suited to planting colorful flowers such as the brilliant orange butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), clasping coneflower, purple coneflower, purple Salvia nemorosa, or the deep blue-purple Delphinium exaltatum. Other good companions include lance-leaf coreopsis, butterfly milkweed, gaillardia, Russian sage, stonecrop, and ox-eye daisy. You can use it with daylilies, hollyhock, and aster, as well.
To balance the scale of black-eyed Susans, you can even interplant them with Hosta, or (as they are often used in roadside plantings) plant them with ornamental grasses such as variegated maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus') in drifts. You can even plant them as borders around your rose garden.
Some gardeners plant black-eyed Susan in their vegetable gardens, not only for visual interest but to attract pollinators useful for vegetable growth.
Blanket Flower
How to Grow Blanket Flower
Germination:
Direct sow in late spring, planting 1/4" below the surface of the soil and compacting it slightly. Keep the soil evenly moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination, which widely varies from 20-70 days. Since these plants do not transplant well, they should be planted in peat pots if started indoors.
Crop Care:
Water the seedlings until they become established. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though watering in especially dry periods will improve the blooming. Excess moisture may result in root rot and other disease. Deadheading or cutting back the plant will also increase the blooms. This is a rather short-lived perennial that does not readily self-sow. This plant attracts butterflies and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After the petals of the flowers drop off, the center will begin to turn from green to brown. Cut the seed heads off when they have ripened but before they begin to shatter. Spread them out to dry in a protected location for 2-3 weeks. Crush the seed heads to separate the seed from the stems. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Gaillardias mix well with any sun-loving plants. For a warm color border try mixing with Coreopsis, or Sunflowers. If you want a more varied color scheme try pairing with Echinacea, or blue-toned flowers like hardy Plumbago. Contrast with fine flowers or foliage such as those produced by Gypsophila, Yarrow, or ornamental grasses.
Problems:
Root rot may occur in poorly drained soils, particularly during periods of protracted heavy summer rains. Species plants are generally susceptible to powdery mildew, aster yellows, and fungal leaf spot diseases.
Direct sow in late spring, planting 1/4" below the surface of the soil and compacting it slightly. Keep the soil evenly moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination, which widely varies from 20-70 days. Since these plants do not transplant well, they should be planted in peat pots if started indoors.
Crop Care:
Water the seedlings until they become established. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though watering in especially dry periods will improve the blooming. Excess moisture may result in root rot and other disease. Deadheading or cutting back the plant will also increase the blooms. This is a rather short-lived perennial that does not readily self-sow. This plant attracts butterflies and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After the petals of the flowers drop off, the center will begin to turn from green to brown. Cut the seed heads off when they have ripened but before they begin to shatter. Spread them out to dry in a protected location for 2-3 weeks. Crush the seed heads to separate the seed from the stems. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Gaillardias mix well with any sun-loving plants. For a warm color border try mixing with Coreopsis, or Sunflowers. If you want a more varied color scheme try pairing with Echinacea, or blue-toned flowers like hardy Plumbago. Contrast with fine flowers or foliage such as those produced by Gypsophila, Yarrow, or ornamental grasses.
Problems:
Root rot may occur in poorly drained soils, particularly during periods of protracted heavy summer rains. Species plants are generally susceptible to powdery mildew, aster yellows, and fungal leaf spot diseases.
Blazing Star
How to Grow Blazing Star
Germination:
Direct sow seeds in late fall, pressing them into the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting; keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which usually occurs within 3-4 weeks at temperatures of 65-70 degrees F. This seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in the spring.
Crop Care:
Young plants will need to be watered as they develop; because of the development of their extensive root systems, blooming usually does not occur until the second year of growth. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they also flourish in moist soil. After three or four years, the plants may need to be divided for the best growth. This should be done after blooming when the plant has gone dormant. These plants attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with about one-third of the flowers open, and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water. For dried flowers, hang the spikes upside down in a dry, warm place for about three weeks.
Seed Saving:
When the flowers fade, they will eventually develop into a fluffy seed head. Since small birds love to eat the seed, harvest it promptly to avoid loss. Cut the stems as soon as the fluff darkens slightly and can be removed. Spread the stalks out to dry away from direct sunlight. When they have completely dried, strip the fluff from the stems and clean it as well as possible. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
The leaves and root are anodyne, antibacterial, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, stimulant, and, tonic. The plant is said to be extremely efficacious when used as a local application in the treatment of sore throats and gonorrhea. It is also used in treating kidney diseases. The leaves are harvested in the summer, and the roots in the autumn. Both can be used fresh or dried.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Liatris spicata, with Andropogon gerardii, Anemone canadensis, Aster novae-angliae, Aster puniceus, Echinacea purpurea, Eupatorium hyssopifolium, Helenium autumnale, or Heliopsis helianthoides.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Taller plants may require staking or other support.
Direct sow seeds in late fall, pressing them into the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting; keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which usually occurs within 3-4 weeks at temperatures of 65-70 degrees F. This seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in the spring.
Crop Care:
Young plants will need to be watered as they develop; because of the development of their extensive root systems, blooming usually does not occur until the second year of growth. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they also flourish in moist soil. After three or four years, the plants may need to be divided for the best growth. This should be done after blooming when the plant has gone dormant. These plants attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with about one-third of the flowers open, and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water. For dried flowers, hang the spikes upside down in a dry, warm place for about three weeks.
Seed Saving:
When the flowers fade, they will eventually develop into a fluffy seed head. Since small birds love to eat the seed, harvest it promptly to avoid loss. Cut the stems as soon as the fluff darkens slightly and can be removed. Spread the stalks out to dry away from direct sunlight. When they have completely dried, strip the fluff from the stems and clean it as well as possible. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
The leaves and root are anodyne, antibacterial, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, stimulant, and, tonic. The plant is said to be extremely efficacious when used as a local application in the treatment of sore throats and gonorrhea. It is also used in treating kidney diseases. The leaves are harvested in the summer, and the roots in the autumn. Both can be used fresh or dried.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Liatris spicata, with Andropogon gerardii, Anemone canadensis, Aster novae-angliae, Aster puniceus, Echinacea purpurea, Eupatorium hyssopifolium, Helenium autumnale, or Heliopsis helianthoides.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Taller plants may require staking or other support.
Boneset
How to Grow Boneset
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, pressing the seeds into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before direct sowing. To start indoors, scatter the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; compress the soil slightly and keep it lightly moist until germination, which is naturally slow but should take place within 2-3 months. Keep the soil consistently moist, and transplant seedlings as soon as they reach a height of several inches.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings watered since they need even moisture in their first year of development; they may not bloom until their second year of growth. Mature plants can tolerate drought, though they reach their full potential in moist, well-drained soil. This plant may spread by rhizomes and self-seeding and can be divided after several years of growth. Cut the plant down to the ground after the first frost. This plant attracts butterflies and bees.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. If using the plant as an herb, keep in mind that it is toxic when fresh and must be dried before use; the health benefits of this plant have not been proven, so use it with caution.
Seed Saving:
Late in the season, these fuzzy flowers will begin to turn dull brown. Snip off entire heads and spread them out in a protected location to prevent the light seed from blowing away. When the heads have completely dried, shake them to remove the seed. The fluff attached to the seeds does not affect germination. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
Thoroughwort is one of the most popular domestic medicines in North America and it is used in the treatment of influenza, colds, acute bronchitis, catarrh, and skin diseases. It has been shown to stimulate resistance to viral and bacterial infections and reduces fevers by encouraging sweating. The plant, however, should be used with some caution since large doses are laxative and emetic and the plant might contain potentially liver-harming pyrrolizidine alkaloids. The leaves and flowering stems are antispasmodic, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emetic, febrifuge, laxative, purgative, stimulant, and vasodilator. A hot infusion of the dried leaves and flowers is used as a very effective treatment to bring relief to symptoms of the common cold and other similar feverishness - it loosens phlegm and promotes its removal through coughing. This herb is practically unequaled in its effectiveness against colds. It is also used in the treatment of rheumatic illness, skin conditions, and worms. The leaves and flowering stems are harvested in the summer before the buds open and are dried for later use. A homeopathic remedy is made from a fresh plant, harvested when it first comes into flower. It is used in the treatment of illnesses such as flu and fever.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Boneset with New England aster, cardinal flower, Beebalm, Green-headed coneflower, Goldenrod, Carex amphibola, Carex radiata, Switch Grass, or Indian Grass.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Foliage may scorch if soils are allowed to dry out.
Direct sow in late fall, pressing the seeds into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before direct sowing. To start indoors, scatter the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; compress the soil slightly and keep it lightly moist until germination, which is naturally slow but should take place within 2-3 months. Keep the soil consistently moist, and transplant seedlings as soon as they reach a height of several inches.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings watered since they need even moisture in their first year of development; they may not bloom until their second year of growth. Mature plants can tolerate drought, though they reach their full potential in moist, well-drained soil. This plant may spread by rhizomes and self-seeding and can be divided after several years of growth. Cut the plant down to the ground after the first frost. This plant attracts butterflies and bees.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. If using the plant as an herb, keep in mind that it is toxic when fresh and must be dried before use; the health benefits of this plant have not been proven, so use it with caution.
Seed Saving:
Late in the season, these fuzzy flowers will begin to turn dull brown. Snip off entire heads and spread them out in a protected location to prevent the light seed from blowing away. When the heads have completely dried, shake them to remove the seed. The fluff attached to the seeds does not affect germination. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
Thoroughwort is one of the most popular domestic medicines in North America and it is used in the treatment of influenza, colds, acute bronchitis, catarrh, and skin diseases. It has been shown to stimulate resistance to viral and bacterial infections and reduces fevers by encouraging sweating. The plant, however, should be used with some caution since large doses are laxative and emetic and the plant might contain potentially liver-harming pyrrolizidine alkaloids. The leaves and flowering stems are antispasmodic, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emetic, febrifuge, laxative, purgative, stimulant, and vasodilator. A hot infusion of the dried leaves and flowers is used as a very effective treatment to bring relief to symptoms of the common cold and other similar feverishness - it loosens phlegm and promotes its removal through coughing. This herb is practically unequaled in its effectiveness against colds. It is also used in the treatment of rheumatic illness, skin conditions, and worms. The leaves and flowering stems are harvested in the summer before the buds open and are dried for later use. A homeopathic remedy is made from a fresh plant, harvested when it first comes into flower. It is used in the treatment of illnesses such as flu and fever.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Boneset with New England aster, cardinal flower, Beebalm, Green-headed coneflower, Goldenrod, Carex amphibola, Carex radiata, Switch Grass, or Indian Grass.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Foliage may scorch if soils are allowed to dry out.
Burning Bush
How to Grow Burning Bush
Germination:
The seeds of the kochia require no special treatment before planting. They are tough seeds with a rough triangular appearance. Left to its own devices, the plant naturally spreads its seeds each year when the plant dries, breaks away from its root system and the wind carries it like a tumbleweed across the expanses. As the plant is carried across the ground via the wind, the flat, grayish-black seeds are strewn across the soil's surface and readily take hold in the dirt to germinate the following spring.
Sow your seeds indoors in pots but do not cover them and keep them at the temperature of 61-65 F. Germination time should occur in 10 -14 days. Light is required and you must keep seeds moist until germination occurs. Set out your transplants when they are large enough to handle.
Planting outdoors should be done in late April to early May. Liming of the soil to a pH of 6.0 is recommended. As Burning Bush is hardy, ensure temperatures are mild enough to plant out - wait until after your last frost date to be on the safe side.
In the spring, the field where the kochia seeds will be planted should be prepared. The soil should be plowed or disked so that all weeds are removed. An application of nitrogen should be tilled into the soil at a rate of 50 to 100 pounds per acre. Kochia seeds can be broadcast across the field at a ratio of one to four pounds per acre. The seeds can also be planted via the drilling method. Create 36-inch rows across the acre. Plant 1 pound of seed in the row using a standard drill at a depth of 1/4 of an inch below the soil's surface. Avoid planting the kochia seeds too deep. When planted below 3/4 of an inch of soil the seeds will often not emerge at all or the growth rate is poor.
Crop Care:
Once the seeds have emerged from the soil, the plants should be thinned to promote vigorous plant growth. Ideally, the seedlings should be thinned to two to ten plants for every square foot of ground.
Kochia plants do not compete well against weeds and grasses. The field where kochia is grown should be kept relatively weed-free for the optimum growth of kochia plants.
Harvesting:
Harvest should take place when the plants stand 18 to 26 inches in height. Cutting the tops off the kochia plants to harvest will allow three or four harvests per season.
Seed Saving:
At the end of the growing season, before winter sets in, farmers often allow the kochia to produce seeds and harvest the seeds using a combine.
Culinary:
In Japan and China, fresh fruit is used as a food garnish on some dishes (Yoshikawa et al., 1997) and the seeds are ground into flour (Usher, 1974).
Medicinal:
Kochia scoparia has been used in Chinese and Korean folk medicine as a treatment for skin diseases, diabetes, mellitus, rheumatoid arthritis, liver disorders, and jaundice (Kim et al., 2005; Choi et al., 2002).
The seeds of kochia have also been shown to contain other chemicals that could have beneficial human uses, such as compounds that could be used to treat ulcers, rheumatoid arthritis, and some human pathogenic bacteria (Friesen et al., 2009; Goyal and Gupta, 1988; Borrelli and Izzo, 2000).
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Animal Forage:
During the early stages of growth, Kochia scoparia is palatable and has high forage value for all classes of livestock, and can be hayed or grazed (Everitt et al., 1983; Stubbendieck et al., 2003). Kochia provides cover and the seeds are used as food by both songbirds and upland game birds (Stubbendieck et al., 2003). The large quantity of high-protein seed makes kochia valuable for poultry feed (Friesen et al., 2009). Kochia is also eaten by deer and pronghorn (Stubbendieck et al., 2003).
Kochia scoparia is palatable to all classes of livestock. The nutritional value, when immature, is similar to that of alfalfa (Stubbendieck et al., 2003). Kochia scoparia can be toxic to livestock and may cause death if consumed in large quantities by cattle, sheep, or horses (Sprowls, 1981). Kochia has been known to cause polioencephalomalacia and photosensitization in range cattle (Dickie and Berryman, 1979). Kochia has been identified as containing saponins, alkaloids, oxalates, and nitrates all of which are toxic substances that seem to be more toxic during times of drought and during seed maturity (Dickie and James, 1983), so caution should be used when using Kochia as forage for livestock. It is recommended that Kochia forage should consist of not more than 50% of livestock ration (Mir et al., 1991; Saskatchewan Agriculture, 1986). Kochia stands can be grazed by livestock directly but care should be taken to prevent poisoning. Rotational grazing of other crops and not grazing for more than 90-120 days should help prevent poisoning (Undersander et al., 1990). Feeding supplemental phosphorus is recommended for livestock grazing on kochia due to the low amount that is present in the plant (Undersander et al., 1990).
If kochia is cut for hay or silage it should be cut before it has produced seed when it is between 18 – 26 in (45.7 – 66 cm) tall (Undersander et al., 1990). Under irrigated and fertilized conditions kochia could be cut up to four times a year (Foster, 1980). Reports of hay production have varied from 1 ton/acre (2.25 t/ha) (Hanson 1988) to 11.5 ton/acre (26 t/ha) (Foster, 1980) depending on region, moisture, and fertilization.
If it is cut for hay, it will likely need to be crimped and crushed after cutting and is going to take between 10-30 days to cure (Hanson, 1988). Kochia is more resistant to spoiling, even with the rain, and can be baled at higher moisture levels than with other crops (Hanson, 1988). If hay is harvested when it is too mature and contains coarse stalks, then bales will need to be processed (i.e. ground) and mixed with other forages for livestock to readily consume it (Hanson, 1988).
Other Uses:
In China, Russia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Romania, and Italy kochia is planted for making brooms (Zimdahal, 1989; Shu, 2003; Nedelcheva et al., 2007; Friesen et al., 2009).
Kochia seeds contain an oviposition pheromone that can be added as an attractant for mosquito pesticides (Friesen et al., 2009; Whitney et al., 2004).
Erosion Control and Bioremediation: Kochia can be used for the control of soil erosion. Undersander et al. (1990) indicated that it can survive in a variety of harsh soil conditions, including sandy and alkaline soils. Kochia scoparia is drought, salinity, and grasshopper tolerant and can grow in areas with very thin topsoil (Friesen et al., 2009). It is especially suited to arid to semi-arid regions (Friesen et al., 2009). It can germinate and grow at any time during the growing season and will provide quick ground cover to protect the topsoil. For large inaccessible areas, it can be sown using airplanes, making it ideal for revegetation after a fire.
The seeds of the kochia require no special treatment before planting. They are tough seeds with a rough triangular appearance. Left to its own devices, the plant naturally spreads its seeds each year when the plant dries, breaks away from its root system and the wind carries it like a tumbleweed across the expanses. As the plant is carried across the ground via the wind, the flat, grayish-black seeds are strewn across the soil's surface and readily take hold in the dirt to germinate the following spring.
Sow your seeds indoors in pots but do not cover them and keep them at the temperature of 61-65 F. Germination time should occur in 10 -14 days. Light is required and you must keep seeds moist until germination occurs. Set out your transplants when they are large enough to handle.
Planting outdoors should be done in late April to early May. Liming of the soil to a pH of 6.0 is recommended. As Burning Bush is hardy, ensure temperatures are mild enough to plant out - wait until after your last frost date to be on the safe side.
In the spring, the field where the kochia seeds will be planted should be prepared. The soil should be plowed or disked so that all weeds are removed. An application of nitrogen should be tilled into the soil at a rate of 50 to 100 pounds per acre. Kochia seeds can be broadcast across the field at a ratio of one to four pounds per acre. The seeds can also be planted via the drilling method. Create 36-inch rows across the acre. Plant 1 pound of seed in the row using a standard drill at a depth of 1/4 of an inch below the soil's surface. Avoid planting the kochia seeds too deep. When planted below 3/4 of an inch of soil the seeds will often not emerge at all or the growth rate is poor.
Crop Care:
Once the seeds have emerged from the soil, the plants should be thinned to promote vigorous plant growth. Ideally, the seedlings should be thinned to two to ten plants for every square foot of ground.
Kochia plants do not compete well against weeds and grasses. The field where kochia is grown should be kept relatively weed-free for the optimum growth of kochia plants.
Harvesting:
Harvest should take place when the plants stand 18 to 26 inches in height. Cutting the tops off the kochia plants to harvest will allow three or four harvests per season.
Seed Saving:
At the end of the growing season, before winter sets in, farmers often allow the kochia to produce seeds and harvest the seeds using a combine.
Culinary:
In Japan and China, fresh fruit is used as a food garnish on some dishes (Yoshikawa et al., 1997) and the seeds are ground into flour (Usher, 1974).
Medicinal:
Kochia scoparia has been used in Chinese and Korean folk medicine as a treatment for skin diseases, diabetes, mellitus, rheumatoid arthritis, liver disorders, and jaundice (Kim et al., 2005; Choi et al., 2002).
The seeds of kochia have also been shown to contain other chemicals that could have beneficial human uses, such as compounds that could be used to treat ulcers, rheumatoid arthritis, and some human pathogenic bacteria (Friesen et al., 2009; Goyal and Gupta, 1988; Borrelli and Izzo, 2000).
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Animal Forage:
During the early stages of growth, Kochia scoparia is palatable and has high forage value for all classes of livestock, and can be hayed or grazed (Everitt et al., 1983; Stubbendieck et al., 2003). Kochia provides cover and the seeds are used as food by both songbirds and upland game birds (Stubbendieck et al., 2003). The large quantity of high-protein seed makes kochia valuable for poultry feed (Friesen et al., 2009). Kochia is also eaten by deer and pronghorn (Stubbendieck et al., 2003).
Kochia scoparia is palatable to all classes of livestock. The nutritional value, when immature, is similar to that of alfalfa (Stubbendieck et al., 2003). Kochia scoparia can be toxic to livestock and may cause death if consumed in large quantities by cattle, sheep, or horses (Sprowls, 1981). Kochia has been known to cause polioencephalomalacia and photosensitization in range cattle (Dickie and Berryman, 1979). Kochia has been identified as containing saponins, alkaloids, oxalates, and nitrates all of which are toxic substances that seem to be more toxic during times of drought and during seed maturity (Dickie and James, 1983), so caution should be used when using Kochia as forage for livestock. It is recommended that Kochia forage should consist of not more than 50% of livestock ration (Mir et al., 1991; Saskatchewan Agriculture, 1986). Kochia stands can be grazed by livestock directly but care should be taken to prevent poisoning. Rotational grazing of other crops and not grazing for more than 90-120 days should help prevent poisoning (Undersander et al., 1990). Feeding supplemental phosphorus is recommended for livestock grazing on kochia due to the low amount that is present in the plant (Undersander et al., 1990).
If kochia is cut for hay or silage it should be cut before it has produced seed when it is between 18 – 26 in (45.7 – 66 cm) tall (Undersander et al., 1990). Under irrigated and fertilized conditions kochia could be cut up to four times a year (Foster, 1980). Reports of hay production have varied from 1 ton/acre (2.25 t/ha) (Hanson 1988) to 11.5 ton/acre (26 t/ha) (Foster, 1980) depending on region, moisture, and fertilization.
If it is cut for hay, it will likely need to be crimped and crushed after cutting and is going to take between 10-30 days to cure (Hanson, 1988). Kochia is more resistant to spoiling, even with the rain, and can be baled at higher moisture levels than with other crops (Hanson, 1988). If hay is harvested when it is too mature and contains coarse stalks, then bales will need to be processed (i.e. ground) and mixed with other forages for livestock to readily consume it (Hanson, 1988).
Other Uses:
In China, Russia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Romania, and Italy kochia is planted for making brooms (Zimdahal, 1989; Shu, 2003; Nedelcheva et al., 2007; Friesen et al., 2009).
Kochia seeds contain an oviposition pheromone that can be added as an attractant for mosquito pesticides (Friesen et al., 2009; Whitney et al., 2004).
Erosion Control and Bioremediation: Kochia can be used for the control of soil erosion. Undersander et al. (1990) indicated that it can survive in a variety of harsh soil conditions, including sandy and alkaline soils. Kochia scoparia is drought, salinity, and grasshopper tolerant and can grow in areas with very thin topsoil (Friesen et al., 2009). It is especially suited to arid to semi-arid regions (Friesen et al., 2009). It can germinate and grow at any time during the growing season and will provide quick ground cover to protect the topsoil. For large inaccessible areas, it can be sown using airplanes, making it ideal for revegetation after a fire.
Calendula
How to Grow Calendula
Germination:
Start your Calendula seed indoors under your grow lights 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. Sow your seeds ¼” deep in 2" Soil Blocks or individual pots. Keep this cool season species evenly moist at a temperature of 60-65 degrees until germination, which should take place within 5-15 days.
Transplant your Calendula seedlings outdoors 10-12” apart after the last frost date in your area. Once established, this species does not need regular watering. For the best blooms, it should not be over-watered. To keep the plant bushy and neat, occasionally pinch off the tops of the developing stalks. If deadheaded regularly, it will produce profuse blossoms all season long; in hotter regions, it may stop blooming in the heat of summer and begin again in fall. This plant will readily reseed itself. Calendula can also be grown in containers.
Direct sow your Calendula seeds in early spring. Sow them outdoors 1/4" deep and space them 10-12" apart.
Direct sow your Calendula seeds in Fall. Sow them outdoors 1/4" deep and space them 10-12" apart.
Crop Care:
Once established, Calendula does not need regular watering; for the best blooms, it should not be over-watered. To keep the plant bushy and neat, occasionally pinch off the tops of the developing stalks. If deadheaded regularly, it will produce profuse blossoms all season long. In hotter regions, it may stop blooming in the heat of summer and begin again in fall. This plant will readily reseed itself. Calendula can also be grown in containers.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately. For culinary use, cut flower heads that have just opened; spread them out away from direct sunlight to dry completely, turning them occasionally. When the flowers are crisp and dry, store them in an airtight container for up to a year. The dried petals can be used in place of saffron, or as a garnish to add color and spice to dishes.
Seed Saving:
When the developing seed turns from green to pale tan and easily comes loose from the head, remove the seed heads. Spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight, then thresh them to separate the seed from the husk. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Calendula’s edible flowers and spicy leaves add zest to summer salads and will draw plenty of ooohs and ahhs when presented in a meal.
Leaves: raw. When eaten they first of all impart a viscid sweetness, followed by a strong penetrating taste of a saline nature. They are very rich in vitamins and minerals and are similar to Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion) in nutritional value. Fresh petals are chopped and added to salads. The dried petals have a more concentrated flavor and are used as a seasoning in soups, cakes, etc. High in vitamins A and C. An edible yellow dye is obtained from the petals. A saffron substitute, it is used to color and flavor rice, soups, etc. It is also used as a hair rinse, adding golden tints to brown or auburn hair. Tea is made from the petals and flowers, tea made from the petals is less bitter. There is no record of the seed being edible, but it contains up to 37% protein and 46% oil.
Medicinal:
Pot marigold is one of the best-known and versatile herbs in Western herbal medicine and is also a popular domestic remedy. It is, above all, a remedy for skin problems and is applied externally to bites and stings, sprains, wounds, sore eyes, varicose veins, etc. It is also a cleansing and detoxifying herb and is taken internally in treating fevers and chronic infections. Only the common deep-orange flowered variety is considered to be of medicinal value. The whole plant, but especially the flowers and the leaves, is antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aperient, astringent, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, skin, stimulant, and vulnerary. The leaves can be used fresh or dried, they are best harvested in the morning of a fine sunny day just after the dew has dried from them. The flowers are also used fresh or dried, for drying they are harvested when fully open and need to be dried quickly in the shade. A tea of the petals tones up circulation and, taken regularly, can ease varicose veins. An application of the crushed stems to corns, and warts will soon render them easily removable. The leaves, blossoms, and buds are used to make a homeopathic remedy. It is used internally to speed the healing of wounds.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Some companion gardeners believe a border or interplanting of calendula protects plants against asparagus beetles, tomato hornworms, and other insects' this may be due to a masking effect or a repellent created by the pungent scent of its foliage. It is reputed to repel dogs when planted around shrubs and trees.
Companions: The cheerful flowers of calendula are a great accent for herb gardens and flower borders. This compact annual fits in easily with vegetable garden plantings. In Poland, growing calendulas among cabbage resulted in fewer problems with aphids, cabbageworms, and diamondback moths. A recent study in India showed that calendula extracts reduced feeding by tobacco cutworms.
Enemies: None Known.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to powdery mildew. Watch for slugs and snails, particularly on young plants. Aphids and whiteflies are occasional visitors.
Start your Calendula seed indoors under your grow lights 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. Sow your seeds ¼” deep in 2" Soil Blocks or individual pots. Keep this cool season species evenly moist at a temperature of 60-65 degrees until germination, which should take place within 5-15 days.
Transplant your Calendula seedlings outdoors 10-12” apart after the last frost date in your area. Once established, this species does not need regular watering. For the best blooms, it should not be over-watered. To keep the plant bushy and neat, occasionally pinch off the tops of the developing stalks. If deadheaded regularly, it will produce profuse blossoms all season long; in hotter regions, it may stop blooming in the heat of summer and begin again in fall. This plant will readily reseed itself. Calendula can also be grown in containers.
Direct sow your Calendula seeds in early spring. Sow them outdoors 1/4" deep and space them 10-12" apart.
Direct sow your Calendula seeds in Fall. Sow them outdoors 1/4" deep and space them 10-12" apart.
Crop Care:
Once established, Calendula does not need regular watering; for the best blooms, it should not be over-watered. To keep the plant bushy and neat, occasionally pinch off the tops of the developing stalks. If deadheaded regularly, it will produce profuse blossoms all season long. In hotter regions, it may stop blooming in the heat of summer and begin again in fall. This plant will readily reseed itself. Calendula can also be grown in containers.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately. For culinary use, cut flower heads that have just opened; spread them out away from direct sunlight to dry completely, turning them occasionally. When the flowers are crisp and dry, store them in an airtight container for up to a year. The dried petals can be used in place of saffron, or as a garnish to add color and spice to dishes.
Seed Saving:
When the developing seed turns from green to pale tan and easily comes loose from the head, remove the seed heads. Spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight, then thresh them to separate the seed from the husk. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Calendula’s edible flowers and spicy leaves add zest to summer salads and will draw plenty of ooohs and ahhs when presented in a meal.
Leaves: raw. When eaten they first of all impart a viscid sweetness, followed by a strong penetrating taste of a saline nature. They are very rich in vitamins and minerals and are similar to Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion) in nutritional value. Fresh petals are chopped and added to salads. The dried petals have a more concentrated flavor and are used as a seasoning in soups, cakes, etc. High in vitamins A and C. An edible yellow dye is obtained from the petals. A saffron substitute, it is used to color and flavor rice, soups, etc. It is also used as a hair rinse, adding golden tints to brown or auburn hair. Tea is made from the petals and flowers, tea made from the petals is less bitter. There is no record of the seed being edible, but it contains up to 37% protein and 46% oil.
Medicinal:
Pot marigold is one of the best-known and versatile herbs in Western herbal medicine and is also a popular domestic remedy. It is, above all, a remedy for skin problems and is applied externally to bites and stings, sprains, wounds, sore eyes, varicose veins, etc. It is also a cleansing and detoxifying herb and is taken internally in treating fevers and chronic infections. Only the common deep-orange flowered variety is considered to be of medicinal value. The whole plant, but especially the flowers and the leaves, is antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aperient, astringent, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, skin, stimulant, and vulnerary. The leaves can be used fresh or dried, they are best harvested in the morning of a fine sunny day just after the dew has dried from them. The flowers are also used fresh or dried, for drying they are harvested when fully open and need to be dried quickly in the shade. A tea of the petals tones up circulation and, taken regularly, can ease varicose veins. An application of the crushed stems to corns, and warts will soon render them easily removable. The leaves, blossoms, and buds are used to make a homeopathic remedy. It is used internally to speed the healing of wounds.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Some companion gardeners believe a border or interplanting of calendula protects plants against asparagus beetles, tomato hornworms, and other insects' this may be due to a masking effect or a repellent created by the pungent scent of its foliage. It is reputed to repel dogs when planted around shrubs and trees.
Companions: The cheerful flowers of calendula are a great accent for herb gardens and flower borders. This compact annual fits in easily with vegetable garden plantings. In Poland, growing calendulas among cabbage resulted in fewer problems with aphids, cabbageworms, and diamondback moths. A recent study in India showed that calendula extracts reduced feeding by tobacco cutworms.
Enemies: None Known.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to powdery mildew. Watch for slugs and snails, particularly on young plants. Aphids and whiteflies are occasional visitors.
Camass
How to Grow Camass
Germination:
For spring planting, mix your Camass seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting. When the weather has warmed, sow your seeds outdoors 8-10" apart. Though it adapts to many soils including sand, this plant prefers moist, fairly heavy soil such as clay.
For best results, direct sow your Camass seeds outdoors in the fall. Plant them just below the surface of the soil, 8-10" apart. This variety may be slow to germinate, taking anywhere from 1-6 months.
Crop Care:
Blue Camass develops rather slowly, and may not bloom until several years after sprouting. Seedlings need regular watering as they become established, and mature plants may also need occasional watering in the blooming season. High heat or excess moisture may cause Blue Camass to stop blooming or go dormant. After blooming the plant will wither and go dormant until next year; the stem can be cut down after blooming has finished, though this will prevent the development of seed. If left to self-seed, this plant will produce volunteer seedlings. Camass attracts butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees.
Harvesting:
Blue Camass makes an excellent cut flower; cut the stems long and place them in water immediately. The edible bulbs can be harvested from mature plants at any time in the fall. When harvesting bulbs, keep in mind that the poisonous Death Camas often grow near this plant.
Seed Saving:
When the seed heads begin to dry and contain mature black seeds, remove them and spread them out to dry. Thresh to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
For spring planting, mix your Camass seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting. When the weather has warmed, sow your seeds outdoors 8-10" apart. Though it adapts to many soils including sand, this plant prefers moist, fairly heavy soil such as clay.
For best results, direct sow your Camass seeds outdoors in the fall. Plant them just below the surface of the soil, 8-10" apart. This variety may be slow to germinate, taking anywhere from 1-6 months.
Crop Care:
Blue Camass develops rather slowly, and may not bloom until several years after sprouting. Seedlings need regular watering as they become established, and mature plants may also need occasional watering in the blooming season. High heat or excess moisture may cause Blue Camass to stop blooming or go dormant. After blooming the plant will wither and go dormant until next year; the stem can be cut down after blooming has finished, though this will prevent the development of seed. If left to self-seed, this plant will produce volunteer seedlings. Camass attracts butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees.
Harvesting:
Blue Camass makes an excellent cut flower; cut the stems long and place them in water immediately. The edible bulbs can be harvested from mature plants at any time in the fall. When harvesting bulbs, keep in mind that the poisonous Death Camas often grow near this plant.
Seed Saving:
When the seed heads begin to dry and contain mature black seeds, remove them and spread them out to dry. Thresh to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Canterbury Bells
How to Grow Canterbury Bells
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, planting the seeds on the surface of the soil and compacting it lightly. Do not cover the seeds, since they need light to germinate; they are best kept moist until germination, which should occur within several weeks. For spring planting, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 30 days before direct sowing. To start the plants indoors, sow the seed on the surface of the soil of a flat; keep the temperature at 65-70 degrees F and the soil lightly moist until germination. As soon as the seedlings develop leaves, thin or transplant them.
Crop Care:
Transplant the seedlings outdoors in rich, well-drained soil that has plenty of compost or sphagnum peat moss worked in. Canterbury Bells need a site in full sun to light shade. Canterbury Bells care includes fertilizing every other month during the growing season for the best height and heaviest bloom. These taller Campanula plants may need support to keep flowers upright. Cut Canterbury Bells back after flowering.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut the stems just when they have begun to bloom. Place them in water immediately. Expect a vase life of 7 to 14 days at room temperature.
Seed Saving:
Since the tiny seed pods on the stalk will ripen at different times, the seed will need to be harvested over some time. Shake the entire plant over a container to remove the seed that has ripened, repeating the process every few days until all the seed on the stalk has ripened. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Edible Parts:
Leaves & Root.
Edible Uses:
Young shoots: raw or cooked.
Root: cooked.
Companion Planting:
Coral Bells, Lamb's Ears, and Daylily.
Direct sow in late fall, planting the seeds on the surface of the soil and compacting it lightly. Do not cover the seeds, since they need light to germinate; they are best kept moist until germination, which should occur within several weeks. For spring planting, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 30 days before direct sowing. To start the plants indoors, sow the seed on the surface of the soil of a flat; keep the temperature at 65-70 degrees F and the soil lightly moist until germination. As soon as the seedlings develop leaves, thin or transplant them.
Crop Care:
Transplant the seedlings outdoors in rich, well-drained soil that has plenty of compost or sphagnum peat moss worked in. Canterbury Bells need a site in full sun to light shade. Canterbury Bells care includes fertilizing every other month during the growing season for the best height and heaviest bloom. These taller Campanula plants may need support to keep flowers upright. Cut Canterbury Bells back after flowering.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut the stems just when they have begun to bloom. Place them in water immediately. Expect a vase life of 7 to 14 days at room temperature.
Seed Saving:
Since the tiny seed pods on the stalk will ripen at different times, the seed will need to be harvested over some time. Shake the entire plant over a container to remove the seed that has ripened, repeating the process every few days until all the seed on the stalk has ripened. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Edible Parts:
Leaves & Root.
Edible Uses:
Young shoots: raw or cooked.
Root: cooked.
Companion Planting:
Coral Bells, Lamb's Ears, and Daylily.
Cardinal Flower
How to Grow Cardinal Flower
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Spring Planting:
To plant Cardinal Flower in the springtime, the seeds will need to be stratified in your refrigerator for 50 days before the 6-8 weeks period before your area's last frost date. There are three different mediums you could use to stratify your seeds in a refrigerator which is normally determined by the size of the seeds you are stratifying: a potting mix, sand, or a napkin. Choosing the right medium is important because it is impossible to separate super tiny seeds from a potting mix or sand later on.
Stratification by Potting Soil or Sand:
1) Fill a container with moist potting mix or sand.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on top of the potting mix, sand, or on half of your napkin.
3) Mist the seeds with a water bottle and cover your container.
4) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the potting mix dry out.
5) Remove from the refrigerator after 60 days.
Stratification by Napkin:
1) Moisten a napkin using a water bottle.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on only half of the napkin
3) Fold the side of the napkin with no seeds on it over the half of the napkin with the seeds on it.
4) Insect the napkin into a zip lock bag and seal it.
5) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the napkin dry out.
6) Remove from the refrigerator after 60 days.
Germinating Cardinal Flower Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter stratified seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Sprinkle a little additional soil mix over the seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 65 - 70F. Ideal 70F.
Average Germ Time: 14 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press it into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Fall Planting:
In late fall, direct sow 2-3 of your cardinal flower seeds on the surface of moist humus-rich soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat.
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Cardinal Flower prefers moist humus-rich soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 1 foot between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain medium moisture and even be occasionally wet.
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F.
Spacing: 12"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Cardinal Flower appreciates plenty of water. It can even tolerate prolonged seasonal flooding. Be sure to maintain a consistent watering schedule that keeps the soil evenly moist. Heavy twice-a-week watering may be necessary during hot months if no rain is falling.
Temperature and Humidity: Cardinal Flower can routinely handle a wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 9. It is known to survive down to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, and some Zone 2 gardeners have grown it successfully. The named cultivars and hybrids, however, may be somewhat less cold-hardy than the native species plant. Since cardinal flowers love moisture, higher humidity levels are ideal; these plants aren't well suited for arid climates.
Fertilizer: Cardinal flowers generally do not require fertilizer throughout the year. Adding compost and organic material in the late winter or early spring will provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. This one-time application is generally sufficient for healthy growth.
Pruning: You may want to remove spent flower spikes to keep your plant looking clean and t encourage further blooming. Just keep in mind that this may not allow the plant to self-seed, which could impact next year's colony.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water.
Seed Saving:
As soon as the flowers fade, watch the seed heads carefully since the tiny seed can easily blow away in the wind. Shake the seed heads over a container to remove the ripe seed; repeat until all the seed has ripened. Store the cleaned cardinal flower seed in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
Emetic, expectorant and nervine. The root is analgesic, anthelmintic, antispasmodic, and stomachic. Tea made from the roots has been used in the treatment of epilepsy, syphilis, typhoid, stomach aches, cramps, worms, etc. A poultice of the roots has been applied to sores that are hard to heal. The leaves are analgesic and febrifuge. Tea made from the leaves is used in the treatment of croup, nosebleeds, colds, fevers, headaches, etc. A poultice of the leaves has been applied to the head to relieve the pain of headaches. This species is considered to have a similar medicinal activity to L. inflata but in a milder form. It was seldom if ever used. The plant is used to make a homeopathic remedy. The report does not say which part of the plant is used, nor what it treats.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Swamp milkweed, spotted water-‐hemlock, large blue lobelia, monkey flower, bristly buttercup, water parsnip, blue vervain, wild iris, swamp rose.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Spring Planting:
To plant Cardinal Flower in the springtime, the seeds will need to be stratified in your refrigerator for 50 days before the 6-8 weeks period before your area's last frost date. There are three different mediums you could use to stratify your seeds in a refrigerator which is normally determined by the size of the seeds you are stratifying: a potting mix, sand, or a napkin. Choosing the right medium is important because it is impossible to separate super tiny seeds from a potting mix or sand later on.
Stratification by Potting Soil or Sand:
1) Fill a container with moist potting mix or sand.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on top of the potting mix, sand, or on half of your napkin.
3) Mist the seeds with a water bottle and cover your container.
4) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the potting mix dry out.
5) Remove from the refrigerator after 60 days.
Stratification by Napkin:
1) Moisten a napkin using a water bottle.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on only half of the napkin
3) Fold the side of the napkin with no seeds on it over the half of the napkin with the seeds on it.
4) Insect the napkin into a zip lock bag and seal it.
5) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the napkin dry out.
6) Remove from the refrigerator after 60 days.
Germinating Cardinal Flower Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter stratified seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Sprinkle a little additional soil mix over the seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 65 - 70F. Ideal 70F.
Average Germ Time: 14 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press it into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Fall Planting:
In late fall, direct sow 2-3 of your cardinal flower seeds on the surface of moist humus-rich soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat.
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Cardinal Flower prefers moist humus-rich soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 1 foot between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain medium moisture and even be occasionally wet.
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F.
Spacing: 12"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Cardinal Flower appreciates plenty of water. It can even tolerate prolonged seasonal flooding. Be sure to maintain a consistent watering schedule that keeps the soil evenly moist. Heavy twice-a-week watering may be necessary during hot months if no rain is falling.
Temperature and Humidity: Cardinal Flower can routinely handle a wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 9. It is known to survive down to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, and some Zone 2 gardeners have grown it successfully. The named cultivars and hybrids, however, may be somewhat less cold-hardy than the native species plant. Since cardinal flowers love moisture, higher humidity levels are ideal; these plants aren't well suited for arid climates.
Fertilizer: Cardinal flowers generally do not require fertilizer throughout the year. Adding compost and organic material in the late winter or early spring will provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. This one-time application is generally sufficient for healthy growth.
Pruning: You may want to remove spent flower spikes to keep your plant looking clean and t encourage further blooming. Just keep in mind that this may not allow the plant to self-seed, which could impact next year's colony.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water.
Seed Saving:
As soon as the flowers fade, watch the seed heads carefully since the tiny seed can easily blow away in the wind. Shake the seed heads over a container to remove the ripe seed; repeat until all the seed has ripened. Store the cleaned cardinal flower seed in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
Emetic, expectorant and nervine. The root is analgesic, anthelmintic, antispasmodic, and stomachic. Tea made from the roots has been used in the treatment of epilepsy, syphilis, typhoid, stomach aches, cramps, worms, etc. A poultice of the roots has been applied to sores that are hard to heal. The leaves are analgesic and febrifuge. Tea made from the leaves is used in the treatment of croup, nosebleeds, colds, fevers, headaches, etc. A poultice of the leaves has been applied to the head to relieve the pain of headaches. This species is considered to have a similar medicinal activity to L. inflata but in a milder form. It was seldom if ever used. The plant is used to make a homeopathic remedy. The report does not say which part of the plant is used, nor what it treats.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Swamp milkweed, spotted water-‐hemlock, large blue lobelia, monkey flower, bristly buttercup, water parsnip, blue vervain, wild iris, swamp rose.
Castor Bean
How to Grow Castor Bean
Germination:
When grown as an ornamental, castor beanbeans can be planted directly in the garden in late spring, or started indoors earlier (6-8 weeks before the average last frost) and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. Nick or scarify the seeds or soak them overnight for better germination. Sow the seeds 1-1½ inches deep. Seedlings should start coming up in 1-3 weeks.
Crop Care:
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Castor Bean prefers slightly moist soil that has a pH between 5.8 and 7.0. In a sunny location, dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 24-36" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain moisture until your plant is established.
When outdoor temp: 65˚F to 70˚F.
Spacing: 24-36"
When grown as an ornamental, castor beanbeans can be planted directly in the garden in late spring, or started indoors earlier (6-8 weeks before the average last frost) and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. Nick or scarify the seeds or soak them overnight for better germination. Sow the seeds 1-1½ inches deep. Seedlings should start coming up in 1-3 weeks.
Crop Care:
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Castor Bean prefers slightly moist soil that has a pH between 5.8 and 7.0. In a sunny location, dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 24-36" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain moisture until your plant is established.
When outdoor temp: 65˚F to 70˚F.
Spacing: 24-36"
Catchfly
How to Grow Catchfly
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, pressing into the surface of the soil since this plant needs light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings regularly until they become established. This plant prefers rather moist soil, and watering during especially dry weather will improve its blooming. This plant attracts bees and makes an excellent choice for hanging baskets or containers because of its cascading growth habit.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, slender seed pods will develop that mature from green to tan. When ripe, they will open at the top to reveal the seeds. Shake the open pods over a container to remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Dianthus, Rock Cress, and Goldmoss Stonecrop.
Direct sow in late fall, pressing into the surface of the soil since this plant needs light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings regularly until they become established. This plant prefers rather moist soil, and watering during especially dry weather will improve its blooming. This plant attracts bees and makes an excellent choice for hanging baskets or containers because of its cascading growth habit.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, slender seed pods will develop that mature from green to tan. When ripe, they will open at the top to reveal the seeds. Shake the open pods over a container to remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Dianthus, Rock Cress, and Goldmoss Stonecrop.
Celosia
How to Grow Celosia
Germination:
Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Do not cover them with soil, since light inhibits their germination. Can also be sown outdoors after the last frost.
Germination temperature: 65 F to 70 F
Days to emergence: 14 to 21
Crop Care:
Transplant seedlings outdoors 12-15" apart in full sun after your last frost date. Make sure your soil is humusy, moderately fertile, consistently moist, well-drained, and has a pH of 6.6 - 7.5. Pinch back small plants to ensure bushy fullness. May require staking.
Harvesting:
For fresh cuttings, you should harvest celosia flowers when they are fully developed.
For dried flowers, simply remove the foliage and hang the flowers to allow them to dry.
Seed Saving:
Celosia seeds can be found in the heads, between the velvety flowers. Once the blooms dry out, cut them off and hang them upside down in bunches. When the seed heads are completely dry and crisp, lightly crush them with your hands and the seeds will fall out.
Culinary:
The leaves, young stems, and young flower spikes are handled like spinach. They go into soups and stews and are served as a nutty-flavored side dish with meat or fish or more commonly with a cereal-based main course such as maize porridge. In some places, the leaves are finely chopped and sprinkled into the cooking pot. The flavor is reportedly pleasant, mild, and entirely lacking the bitterness that sometimes spoils other leafy vegetables.
Medicinal:
The flower and seed are astringent, hemostatic, ophthalmic, parasiticide, and poultice. It is used in the treatment of bloody stool, hemorrhoid bleeding, uterine bleeding, leucorrhoea, and diarrhea. As a parasiticide, it is very effective against Trichomonas, a 20% extract can cause the Trichomonas to disappear in 15 minutes. The seed is hypotensive and ophthalmic. It is used in the treatment of bloodshot eyes, blurring of vision, cataracts, and hypertension, but should not be used by people with glaucoma because it dilates the pupils. The seed also has an antibacterial action, inhibiting the growth of Pseudomonas.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with Amaranth, Cosmos, Dahlia, Zinnia, and Marigold.
Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Do not cover them with soil, since light inhibits their germination. Can also be sown outdoors after the last frost.
Germination temperature: 65 F to 70 F
Days to emergence: 14 to 21
Crop Care:
Transplant seedlings outdoors 12-15" apart in full sun after your last frost date. Make sure your soil is humusy, moderately fertile, consistently moist, well-drained, and has a pH of 6.6 - 7.5. Pinch back small plants to ensure bushy fullness. May require staking.
Harvesting:
For fresh cuttings, you should harvest celosia flowers when they are fully developed.
For dried flowers, simply remove the foliage and hang the flowers to allow them to dry.
Seed Saving:
Celosia seeds can be found in the heads, between the velvety flowers. Once the blooms dry out, cut them off and hang them upside down in bunches. When the seed heads are completely dry and crisp, lightly crush them with your hands and the seeds will fall out.
Culinary:
The leaves, young stems, and young flower spikes are handled like spinach. They go into soups and stews and are served as a nutty-flavored side dish with meat or fish or more commonly with a cereal-based main course such as maize porridge. In some places, the leaves are finely chopped and sprinkled into the cooking pot. The flavor is reportedly pleasant, mild, and entirely lacking the bitterness that sometimes spoils other leafy vegetables.
Medicinal:
The flower and seed are astringent, hemostatic, ophthalmic, parasiticide, and poultice. It is used in the treatment of bloody stool, hemorrhoid bleeding, uterine bleeding, leucorrhoea, and diarrhea. As a parasiticide, it is very effective against Trichomonas, a 20% extract can cause the Trichomonas to disappear in 15 minutes. The seed is hypotensive and ophthalmic. It is used in the treatment of bloodshot eyes, blurring of vision, cataracts, and hypertension, but should not be used by people with glaucoma because it dilates the pupils. The seed also has an antibacterial action, inhibiting the growth of Pseudomonas.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with Amaranth, Cosmos, Dahlia, Zinnia, and Marigold.
China Asters
How to Grow China Asters
Germination:
To start Powder Puff Asters indoors, sow the seed in 2" Soil Blocks or peat pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Keep the soil medium you choose lightly moist and your grow area at a temperature around 65-70 degrees F until germination, which should occur within 7-10 days.
Transplant your Powder Puff Aster seedlings 8-12” apart as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Direct sow in early spring, planting ¼” below the surface of the soil. For continuous blooming into late fall, plant a new crop every two weeks.
Crop Care:
Watering:
This plant grows best in rich, evenly moist soil. Water the plants regularly, not allowing the soil to dry out completely since this plant does not tolerate drought well.
Weeding:
Keep the weeds down, since this plant needs air circulation for the healthiest growth; a layer of mulch may help conserve moisture and control weeds.
Support:
As they grow, taller plants may need support or staking.
Harvesting:
For long-lasting fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
Deadhead for increased blooming and to prevent reseeding, if volunteer plants are not wanted.
Allow the flowers to mature into seed heads. The dried heads will contain tiny tan seeds of a rounded shape. Remove the heads and spread them out to dry completely, away from direct sunlight. Crush or open the heads to release the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Allies: None known.
Companions: Perennial asters are useful for attracting beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings to the late summer and fall garden. Branching species, such as the bushy aster (A. dumosus), and calico aster (A. laevis), stiff aster (A. linearifolius), are often home to praying mantids. Asters complement many late-blooming plants in flower beds, borders, and naturalistic plantings. Try them with other beneficial attracting flowers like perennial sunflowers and coneflowers.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
Aphids and spider mites may appear. Plants are susceptible to some significant disease problems including aster yellows (spray if necessary to control leafhoppers), aster wilt and,, stem rot. Site plants in different locations from year to prevent transmission of diseases from the soil. Dig up and destroy diseased plants.
To start Powder Puff Asters indoors, sow the seed in 2" Soil Blocks or peat pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Keep the soil medium you choose lightly moist and your grow area at a temperature around 65-70 degrees F until germination, which should occur within 7-10 days.
Transplant your Powder Puff Aster seedlings 8-12” apart as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Direct sow in early spring, planting ¼” below the surface of the soil. For continuous blooming into late fall, plant a new crop every two weeks.
Crop Care:
Watering:
This plant grows best in rich, evenly moist soil. Water the plants regularly, not allowing the soil to dry out completely since this plant does not tolerate drought well.
Weeding:
Keep the weeds down, since this plant needs air circulation for the healthiest growth; a layer of mulch may help conserve moisture and control weeds.
Support:
As they grow, taller plants may need support or staking.
Harvesting:
For long-lasting fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
Deadhead for increased blooming and to prevent reseeding, if volunteer plants are not wanted.
Allow the flowers to mature into seed heads. The dried heads will contain tiny tan seeds of a rounded shape. Remove the heads and spread them out to dry completely, away from direct sunlight. Crush or open the heads to release the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Allies: None known.
Companions: Perennial asters are useful for attracting beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings to the late summer and fall garden. Branching species, such as the bushy aster (A. dumosus), and calico aster (A. laevis), stiff aster (A. linearifolius), are often home to praying mantids. Asters complement many late-blooming plants in flower beds, borders, and naturalistic plantings. Try them with other beneficial attracting flowers like perennial sunflowers and coneflowers.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
Aphids and spider mites may appear. Plants are susceptible to some significant disease problems including aster yellows (spray if necessary to control leafhoppers), aster wilt and,, stem rot. Site plants in different locations from year to prevent transmission of diseases from the soil. Dig up and destroy diseased plants.
Chinese Houses
How to Grow Chinese Houses
Germination:
In Early Spring, direct sow your Chinese Houses seeds outdoors spacing them 12-15" apart. Keep them moist until germination occurs. This plant adapts well to rocky or coarse soil.
For best results, direct sow your Chinese Houses seeds on the surface of the soil in late fall. Chinese Houses seeds need light for germination so take care not to cover the seeds. Press your seeds down firmly for good seed-to-soil contact.
Crop Care:
Water your Chinese Houses seedlings regularly until they become established, keeping weeds down to a minimum to avoid competition. Mature plants also appreciate occasional watering, though they can survive short dry periods, they do not tolerate drought well. For the best display of blooms, remove wilted flowers. This plant grows best in moderate climates and does not do well with excessive heat. If allowed to self-seed, it will reproduce itself and establish a colony. This plant attracts bees and butterflies.
Harvesting:
For long-lasting fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, the plant will produce tiny seed pods with ripe brown seeds. Watch the pods closely, since they will soon split and drop their seeds. Though the pods can be gathered individually as they ripen, an easier method is to pull the entire plant when the majority of the seed pods have ripened; hang it upside down in a protected area where the seeds can safely fall. When the plant has dried completely, thresh the pods that have not split open to remove the rest of the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Chinese Houses occur as an understory with oaks and other trees. Other plants that occur with it include various native ferns, Clarkia spp, Sisyrinchium spp, and other annual wildflowers.
In Early Spring, direct sow your Chinese Houses seeds outdoors spacing them 12-15" apart. Keep them moist until germination occurs. This plant adapts well to rocky or coarse soil.
For best results, direct sow your Chinese Houses seeds on the surface of the soil in late fall. Chinese Houses seeds need light for germination so take care not to cover the seeds. Press your seeds down firmly for good seed-to-soil contact.
Crop Care:
Water your Chinese Houses seedlings regularly until they become established, keeping weeds down to a minimum to avoid competition. Mature plants also appreciate occasional watering, though they can survive short dry periods, they do not tolerate drought well. For the best display of blooms, remove wilted flowers. This plant grows best in moderate climates and does not do well with excessive heat. If allowed to self-seed, it will reproduce itself and establish a colony. This plant attracts bees and butterflies.
Harvesting:
For long-lasting fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, the plant will produce tiny seed pods with ripe brown seeds. Watch the pods closely, since they will soon split and drop their seeds. Though the pods can be gathered individually as they ripen, an easier method is to pull the entire plant when the majority of the seed pods have ripened; hang it upside down in a protected area where the seeds can safely fall. When the plant has dried completely, thresh the pods that have not split open to remove the rest of the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Chinese Houses occur as an understory with oaks and other trees. Other plants that occur with it include various native ferns, Clarkia spp, Sisyrinchium spp, and other annual wildflowers.
Clarkia
How to Grow Clarkia
Germination:
Deerhorn Clarkia should be sown outdoors simply because this species does not transplant well. Direct sow your seeds on the surface of the soil 9-12" apart in early spring, after the last frost date in your area. Keep the soil moist until germination, which should take place within 7-10 days. Deerhorn Clarkia needs well-drained soil and adapts to seaside conditions, sand, and clay.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings free of weeds; water regularly until blooming begins, about 90 days after planting. After this point, the plants can tolerate drought, though they do not appreciate excess heat and humidity. Deadheading the spent blossoms will tidy the plant, but probably will not produce new blossoms. This plant may self-seed. Clarkia makes a good addition to flower beds, borders, containers, rock gardens, and, native wildflower plantings. This plant attracts bees and butterflies and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, this plant will produce long, narrow pods that mature to a dark brown; the ripe seed will be light brown. Collect the ripe pods and spread them out away from direct sunlight to dry completely. Split the pods open to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Deerhorn Clarkia should be sown outdoors simply because this species does not transplant well. Direct sow your seeds on the surface of the soil 9-12" apart in early spring, after the last frost date in your area. Keep the soil moist until germination, which should take place within 7-10 days. Deerhorn Clarkia needs well-drained soil and adapts to seaside conditions, sand, and clay.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings free of weeds; water regularly until blooming begins, about 90 days after planting. After this point, the plants can tolerate drought, though they do not appreciate excess heat and humidity. Deadheading the spent blossoms will tidy the plant, but probably will not produce new blossoms. This plant may self-seed. Clarkia makes a good addition to flower beds, borders, containers, rock gardens, and, native wildflower plantings. This plant attracts bees and butterflies and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, this plant will produce long, narrow pods that mature to a dark brown; the ripe seed will be light brown. Collect the ripe pods and spread them out away from direct sunlight to dry completely. Split the pods open to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Clover
How to Grow Clover
Germination:
Clover is a cover crop that generally requires cooler temperatures of 65°F to 75°F and adequate water. Germination will not occur in soils below the temperature of 30°F. Most cool weather cover crops should be started when temperatures are still in the 60s to allow the plants to establish before winter, which also prevents Winterkill.
Clover seeds are usually broadcast onto the bed and incorporated into the top 2" of soil with a rake 6-8 weeks before the first frost date in your area. You can also simply scatter the seed on the soil and cover it with an inch of garden soil. Seed shouldn't be left exposed on the soil surface as it will be very prone to drying out, or getting eaten by birds (you may have to net or use row covers to prevent this). It is essential to keep the soil moist until all of the seedlings have germinated and are growing well.
You don't have to have a completely clear bed to plant. If you have productive crops growing there, you can simply sow the seed around them.
If you haven't grown a leguminous cover cop within the last three years you may want to inoculate the seed to improve the rate of nitrogen fixation. This requires the proper strain of bacteria for the crop and is applied to the seed before planting. Requires Pea Vetch or Garden Combination Inoculant.
Crop Care:
Cover crops are very independent plants and don't require much care apart from watering. Since you'll be mostly growing them in winter, they don't usually require watering. Keeping the soil moist during germination is important though.
If you find that birds are eating the seeds you've planted, try covering the beds with row covers.
Generally, you will incorporate the plants into the soil before they flower.
Water Needs: Low. Most of these crops are not particularly drought tolerant and will need regular watering in dry climates (especially when germinating and getting established). However they are mostly grown during the winter when the soil is fairly moist, so don't usually require much irrigation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. You do not need to fertilize cover crops in established gardens, as there will be plenty of nutrients in the garden to meet their needs. Since you will be incorporating them back into the soil, growing them doesn't remove any nutrients from the soil.
The leguminous cover crops also fix nitrogen and eventually add it to the soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches regularly, 2 times a week. Most cover crops need moist soil for the, best growth. This is normally supplied by mother nature, but if it isn't you will have to irrigate.
Protecting, after sowing: Netting, after sowing, 1 time. In many areas, birds will look upon your newly sown cover crop as a fall treat. They will actively search for the seed in the soil and eat the newly emerging shoots. In this case, you may have to net the beds or use row covers.
Watering, after sowing: Water, 1 inch, after sowing, 5 times a week. The germinating seeds must receive adequate water, so if it doesn't rain you will have to irrigate regularly.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Cover crops are different from other crops in that you incorporate them according to your gardening timetable, rather than their stage of growth. They are normally dug into the soil two to three weeks before you need to plant in the bed.
The optimal time to till in your cover crop is when 50% of the flowers are in bloom. At this time there is the maximum amount of biomass and a good proportion of carbon. The biomass will be rapidly decomposed by soil microbes, which will then return nitrogen and other elements to the soil for the next crop. The length of time required to reach this stage will vary hugely, depending on the climate and the crop.
Seed Saving:
Once seed heads begin to dry, pull them through the thumb and forefinger. If the seed head strips from the stalk easily, then the seeds are near maturity. Continue to rub the seed head between fingers to determine if the seed separates easily from the dried blooms.
Companion Planting:
Companion Plant with Cornflower and Broccoli. It is also often planted with hardy annual flowers including bachelor buttons and corn poppies.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Clover is a cover crop that generally requires cooler temperatures of 65°F to 75°F and adequate water. Germination will not occur in soils below the temperature of 30°F. Most cool weather cover crops should be started when temperatures are still in the 60s to allow the plants to establish before winter, which also prevents Winterkill.
Clover seeds are usually broadcast onto the bed and incorporated into the top 2" of soil with a rake 6-8 weeks before the first frost date in your area. You can also simply scatter the seed on the soil and cover it with an inch of garden soil. Seed shouldn't be left exposed on the soil surface as it will be very prone to drying out, or getting eaten by birds (you may have to net or use row covers to prevent this). It is essential to keep the soil moist until all of the seedlings have germinated and are growing well.
You don't have to have a completely clear bed to plant. If you have productive crops growing there, you can simply sow the seed around them.
If you haven't grown a leguminous cover cop within the last three years you may want to inoculate the seed to improve the rate of nitrogen fixation. This requires the proper strain of bacteria for the crop and is applied to the seed before planting. Requires Pea Vetch or Garden Combination Inoculant.
Crop Care:
Cover crops are very independent plants and don't require much care apart from watering. Since you'll be mostly growing them in winter, they don't usually require watering. Keeping the soil moist during germination is important though.
If you find that birds are eating the seeds you've planted, try covering the beds with row covers.
Generally, you will incorporate the plants into the soil before they flower.
Water Needs: Low. Most of these crops are not particularly drought tolerant and will need regular watering in dry climates (especially when germinating and getting established). However they are mostly grown during the winter when the soil is fairly moist, so don't usually require much irrigation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. You do not need to fertilize cover crops in established gardens, as there will be plenty of nutrients in the garden to meet their needs. Since you will be incorporating them back into the soil, growing them doesn't remove any nutrients from the soil.
The leguminous cover crops also fix nitrogen and eventually add it to the soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches regularly, 2 times a week. Most cover crops need moist soil for the, best growth. This is normally supplied by mother nature, but if it isn't you will have to irrigate.
Protecting, after sowing: Netting, after sowing, 1 time. In many areas, birds will look upon your newly sown cover crop as a fall treat. They will actively search for the seed in the soil and eat the newly emerging shoots. In this case, you may have to net the beds or use row covers.
Watering, after sowing: Water, 1 inch, after sowing, 5 times a week. The germinating seeds must receive adequate water, so if it doesn't rain you will have to irrigate regularly.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Cover crops are different from other crops in that you incorporate them according to your gardening timetable, rather than their stage of growth. They are normally dug into the soil two to three weeks before you need to plant in the bed.
The optimal time to till in your cover crop is when 50% of the flowers are in bloom. At this time there is the maximum amount of biomass and a good proportion of carbon. The biomass will be rapidly decomposed by soil microbes, which will then return nitrogen and other elements to the soil for the next crop. The length of time required to reach this stage will vary hugely, depending on the climate and the crop.
Seed Saving:
Once seed heads begin to dry, pull them through the thumb and forefinger. If the seed head strips from the stalk easily, then the seeds are near maturity. Continue to rub the seed head between fingers to determine if the seed separates easily from the dried blooms.
Companion Planting:
Companion Plant with Cornflower and Broccoli. It is also often planted with hardy annual flowers including bachelor buttons and corn poppies.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Coleus
How to Grow Coleus
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, pressing into the surface of the soil. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination. This plant can also be started indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost of spring.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings regularly until they become established. This plant prefers consistently moist yet well-draining soil and does not do well in either soggy or dry soil. To focus the growth on the ornamental leaves and encourage bushiness, pinch off the growing tips of the stems. This plant makes an excellent choice for borders and containers, as well as making a good house plant.
Harvesting:
For fresh bouquets, strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the inconspicuous flowers fade, the tiny seeds will develop in the dried flower head. Shake the ripening plant over a container to remove the mature seed. Keep the seed in a cool, dry place.
Direct sow in early spring, pressing into the surface of the soil. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination. This plant can also be started indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost of spring.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings regularly until they become established. This plant prefers consistently moist yet well-draining soil and does not do well in either soggy or dry soil. To focus the growth on the ornamental leaves and encourage bushiness, pinch off the growing tips of the stems. This plant makes an excellent choice for borders and containers, as well as making a good house plant.
Harvesting:
For fresh bouquets, strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the inconspicuous flowers fade, the tiny seeds will develop in the dried flower head. Shake the ripening plant over a container to remove the mature seed. Keep the seed in a cool, dry place.
Columbine
How to Grow Columbine
Germination:
When starting Columbine seeds indoors for spring, you will need to stratify your seeds by mixing them with moist sand and storing them in the refrigerator for 60 days 10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Sow your seeds just below the surface of 2" Soil Blocks indoors 2 weeks before the last frost date of your area. Keep your blocks lightly moist and the area at a temperature of 60-65 degrees F until germination occurs.
Transplant your Columbine seedlings outdoors as soon as they can be safely handled and there's no chance of frost in your area. Transplant them into fertile, moist, well-drained soil 12-15" apart. Plant Columbine in full sun to partial shade because this flower appreciates being shielded from the midday sun.
For spring planting, mix your Columbine seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 60 days before direct sowing after the last frost. Space seedlings 12-15" apart.
Direct sow your Columbine seeds outdoors 2-4 weeks before the first frost date in early fall just below the soil surface at 12-15" apart in fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Plant Columbine in full sun to partial shade because this flower appreciates being shielded from the midday sun.
Crop Care:
Keep the seedlings watered and control weeds. Mature plants tolerate some dryness but should be watered in the heat of summer. Hot and humid weather may cause the plant to wilt since this plant prefers cool weather and can survive light frosts. Flowers planted from seed will bloom in their second year of growth. After blooming, the foliage will die off. Established plants can be divided, though they will self-sow readily; volunteer plants can easily be transplanted. Deadhead the wilted blossoms if new plants are not wanted. Columbine attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees as well as resisting deer and rabbits. Its natural growth in rocky areas makes it a good choice for rock gardens.
Harvesting:
Columbine makes a lovely cut flower. Choose blossoms that have just opened for the longest vase life. Keep in mind that this plant can be toxic and should not be ingested.
Seed Saving:
Keep in mind that this plant will cross-pollinate easily with other varieties of columbine. Watch the maturing seed pods carefully, since they will open and expose their seed when fully ripe. Shake the open pods into a container to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place for up to two years.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Phlox, a purplish-blue woodland flower, work well with columbines to form a shady border. Both types of flowers prefer light to moderate shade and bloom in the mid-to-late spring. Another border option is the toad lily, which blooms just after the Columbine wanes in spring, leading to a beautiful garden throughout the season.
A good vegetable companion to the columbine is rhubarb which, in addition to its nutritional qualities, deters the red spider mites which often prey on columbines. Rhubarb leaves can also form a natural deterrent to blackspot on roses when boiled.
Other light-shade lovings plants prove good companions to Columbines. These include ferns, woodland flowers, Jeepers Creepers Tiarella, Chocolate Chip Ajuga, and hostas. Cottage or prairie plants, such as False Indigo or Autumn Bluch Coreopsis, can be combined to create an informal feel while allowing varying soil conditions and light shade to yield blossoms.
When starting Columbine seeds indoors for spring, you will need to stratify your seeds by mixing them with moist sand and storing them in the refrigerator for 60 days 10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Sow your seeds just below the surface of 2" Soil Blocks indoors 2 weeks before the last frost date of your area. Keep your blocks lightly moist and the area at a temperature of 60-65 degrees F until germination occurs.
Transplant your Columbine seedlings outdoors as soon as they can be safely handled and there's no chance of frost in your area. Transplant them into fertile, moist, well-drained soil 12-15" apart. Plant Columbine in full sun to partial shade because this flower appreciates being shielded from the midday sun.
For spring planting, mix your Columbine seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 60 days before direct sowing after the last frost. Space seedlings 12-15" apart.
Direct sow your Columbine seeds outdoors 2-4 weeks before the first frost date in early fall just below the soil surface at 12-15" apart in fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Plant Columbine in full sun to partial shade because this flower appreciates being shielded from the midday sun.
Crop Care:
Keep the seedlings watered and control weeds. Mature plants tolerate some dryness but should be watered in the heat of summer. Hot and humid weather may cause the plant to wilt since this plant prefers cool weather and can survive light frosts. Flowers planted from seed will bloom in their second year of growth. After blooming, the foliage will die off. Established plants can be divided, though they will self-sow readily; volunteer plants can easily be transplanted. Deadhead the wilted blossoms if new plants are not wanted. Columbine attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees as well as resisting deer and rabbits. Its natural growth in rocky areas makes it a good choice for rock gardens.
Harvesting:
Columbine makes a lovely cut flower. Choose blossoms that have just opened for the longest vase life. Keep in mind that this plant can be toxic and should not be ingested.
Seed Saving:
Keep in mind that this plant will cross-pollinate easily with other varieties of columbine. Watch the maturing seed pods carefully, since they will open and expose their seed when fully ripe. Shake the open pods into a container to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place for up to two years.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Phlox, a purplish-blue woodland flower, work well with columbines to form a shady border. Both types of flowers prefer light to moderate shade and bloom in the mid-to-late spring. Another border option is the toad lily, which blooms just after the Columbine wanes in spring, leading to a beautiful garden throughout the season.
A good vegetable companion to the columbine is rhubarb which, in addition to its nutritional qualities, deters the red spider mites which often prey on columbines. Rhubarb leaves can also form a natural deterrent to blackspot on roses when boiled.
Other light-shade lovings plants prove good companions to Columbines. These include ferns, woodland flowers, Jeepers Creepers Tiarella, Chocolate Chip Ajuga, and hostas. Cottage or prairie plants, such as False Indigo or Autumn Bluch Coreopsis, can be combined to create an informal feel while allowing varying soil conditions and light shade to yield blossoms.
Compass Plant
How to Grow Compass Plant
Germination:
Fall plant or cold stratify for 2 to 3 months for best results. Sow seeds just below the soil surface at 70F and water. Compass plant needs to be sited in full sun and moist to slightly dry, well-drained soil. The plant needs deep soil to accommodate its long taproot, which can reach lengths of 15 feet.
Crop Care:
Be patient; two or three years are required for compass plant seedlings to grow into full-size, blooming plants, as most of the energy is directed toward the development of the roots. However, once the plant is established, it can survive for up to 100 years. Established plants self-seed readily.
Compass plant is drought-tolerant but benefit from occasional watering, especially during hot weather. Be aware that the compass plant can become top-heavy, especially when planted on windy slopes.
Seed Saving:
Allow seedheads to dry on plants. Remove and collect seeds in early-late September and store them in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Big bluestem, heath and smooth asters, rattlesnake master, showy sunflower, yellow star grass, round-headed bush clover, purple prairie clover, yellow coneflower, rosinweed, prairie dock, stiff goldenrod, and prairie dropseed.
Other Uses:
Livestock: It is reported that compass plant is palatable and nutritious and grazed by livestock, especially in a juvenile state. It will decrease in heavily grazed pastures and eventually disappear from the site (Haddock, 2005). Eddy (1992) found it along roadsides in the Kansas Flint Hills but rarely found it in pastures.
Native American uses: The pounded root of the compass plant was used by the Pawnees to make tea for “general debility”. This tea was also used by the Santee Dakotas to rid horses of worms and by the Omahas and Poncas as a horse tonic (Kindscher, 1992). The Indian children of several tribes used the resinous sap as chewing gum to cleanse their teeth and sweeten their breath. Preparations from compass plant were used by nineteenth-century doctors as an antipyretic, diuretic, emetic, expectorant, tonic, styptic, antispasmodic, and stimulant and for their diaphoretic properties (Kindscher, 1992).
Wildlife: Birds and small mammals eat the seeds (Art, 1991). In grasslands, devoid of woody species, the compass plant provides a sturdy perch for prairie songbirds. Eastern kingbirds use the compass plant as a perch to locate and capture grassland insects (Platt and Harder, 1991).
Fall plant or cold stratify for 2 to 3 months for best results. Sow seeds just below the soil surface at 70F and water. Compass plant needs to be sited in full sun and moist to slightly dry, well-drained soil. The plant needs deep soil to accommodate its long taproot, which can reach lengths of 15 feet.
Crop Care:
Be patient; two or three years are required for compass plant seedlings to grow into full-size, blooming plants, as most of the energy is directed toward the development of the roots. However, once the plant is established, it can survive for up to 100 years. Established plants self-seed readily.
Compass plant is drought-tolerant but benefit from occasional watering, especially during hot weather. Be aware that the compass plant can become top-heavy, especially when planted on windy slopes.
Seed Saving:
Allow seedheads to dry on plants. Remove and collect seeds in early-late September and store them in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Big bluestem, heath and smooth asters, rattlesnake master, showy sunflower, yellow star grass, round-headed bush clover, purple prairie clover, yellow coneflower, rosinweed, prairie dock, stiff goldenrod, and prairie dropseed.
Other Uses:
Livestock: It is reported that compass plant is palatable and nutritious and grazed by livestock, especially in a juvenile state. It will decrease in heavily grazed pastures and eventually disappear from the site (Haddock, 2005). Eddy (1992) found it along roadsides in the Kansas Flint Hills but rarely found it in pastures.
Native American uses: The pounded root of the compass plant was used by the Pawnees to make tea for “general debility”. This tea was also used by the Santee Dakotas to rid horses of worms and by the Omahas and Poncas as a horse tonic (Kindscher, 1992). The Indian children of several tribes used the resinous sap as chewing gum to cleanse their teeth and sweeten their breath. Preparations from compass plant were used by nineteenth-century doctors as an antipyretic, diuretic, emetic, expectorant, tonic, styptic, antispasmodic, and stimulant and for their diaphoretic properties (Kindscher, 1992).
Wildlife: Birds and small mammals eat the seeds (Art, 1991). In grasslands, devoid of woody species, the compass plant provides a sturdy perch for prairie songbirds. Eastern kingbirds use the compass plant as a perch to locate and capture grassland insects (Platt and Harder, 1991).
Coneflower
How to Grow Coneflower
Germination:
When starting Coneflower seeds indoors for spring, sow them 1/8" (cool soil) to 1/4" (Warm soil) deep in 2" Soil Blocks 8-10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. The soil temperature required for Coneflower seeds to germinate is between 55°F to 80°F. Try to maintain a soil temp of 65-70°F for the best germination possible.
When starting Coneflower seeds outdoors in spring, direct sow them 1/8" (cool soil) to 1/4" (Warm soil) deep in 2" Soil Blocks after the last frost date of your area. The soil temperature required for Coneflower seeds to germinate is between 55°F to 80°F. Try to maintain a soil temp of 65-70°F for the best germination possible. There is really no advantage to planting this plant in colder soil, so wait until the soil reaches at least 60 ˚F. Coneflower will be most productive in a warm sunny spot but will tolerate light shade as well as a wide range of weather conditions once it is established.
Crop Care:
Transplant your Coneflower seeds outdoors 12-18" apart when your seedlings are 3 to 4" tall and after the last frost date of your area. There is really no advantage to planting this plant in colder soil, so wait until the soil reaches at least 60˚F. Coneflower will be most productive in a warm sunny spot but will tolerate light shade as well as a wide range of weather conditions once it is established.
Harvesting:
Ripening: For best quality, wait until your plants are 3 years old. Roots should experience a couple hard frosts before harvesting. Harvest roots in the fall after the plants have gone to seed. Harvest flowers when they start to open.
When and How:
Flower:
When: Harvest flowers when they begin to open up.
How: Use a sharp knife and cut the plant where the first healthy leaves are growing.
Root:
When: The root is harvested during the dormant period, preferably in the autumn after 2 or 3 years of growth (after the plant has gone to seed).
How: The roots are dug up with a garden fork or shovel, shaken free of dirt, and washed with a pressure hose. Large crowns will need to be hacked apart with a hatchet or machete to allow access to dirt and stones lodged at the base of the crown. Roots are pretty stable after washing and may be cold-stored or shipped over several days without molding. However, it makes sense to make the fresh root tincture as soon as possible after washing, which will minimize oxidation.
Storage:
Roots: Wash roots thoroughly and pat dry. Cut pieces larger than 1" into smaller pieces to avoid mold growth during drying. Hang root pieces or lay on a screen away from direct sunlight. When completely dry, store in a tightly covered glass jar. Store in in cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 50-65°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Flowers: Lay cut tops on a screen, or hang them upside down in a dark place. Make sure they aren't so dense that air cannot circulate through them. When completely dry (crumbles when touched), store in a glass jar with tight-fitting lids in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 5-8 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Use Food: Beverage tea from leaves.
Companion Planting:
Peonies, monarda, digitalis, delphinium, scabiosa, campanula, dianthus, and hardy geranium make nice companions.
When starting Coneflower seeds indoors for spring, sow them 1/8" (cool soil) to 1/4" (Warm soil) deep in 2" Soil Blocks 8-10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. The soil temperature required for Coneflower seeds to germinate is between 55°F to 80°F. Try to maintain a soil temp of 65-70°F for the best germination possible.
When starting Coneflower seeds outdoors in spring, direct sow them 1/8" (cool soil) to 1/4" (Warm soil) deep in 2" Soil Blocks after the last frost date of your area. The soil temperature required for Coneflower seeds to germinate is between 55°F to 80°F. Try to maintain a soil temp of 65-70°F for the best germination possible. There is really no advantage to planting this plant in colder soil, so wait until the soil reaches at least 60 ˚F. Coneflower will be most productive in a warm sunny spot but will tolerate light shade as well as a wide range of weather conditions once it is established.
Crop Care:
Transplant your Coneflower seeds outdoors 12-18" apart when your seedlings are 3 to 4" tall and after the last frost date of your area. There is really no advantage to planting this plant in colder soil, so wait until the soil reaches at least 60˚F. Coneflower will be most productive in a warm sunny spot but will tolerate light shade as well as a wide range of weather conditions once it is established.
Harvesting:
Ripening: For best quality, wait until your plants are 3 years old. Roots should experience a couple hard frosts before harvesting. Harvest roots in the fall after the plants have gone to seed. Harvest flowers when they start to open.
When and How:
Flower:
When: Harvest flowers when they begin to open up.
How: Use a sharp knife and cut the plant where the first healthy leaves are growing.
Root:
When: The root is harvested during the dormant period, preferably in the autumn after 2 or 3 years of growth (after the plant has gone to seed).
How: The roots are dug up with a garden fork or shovel, shaken free of dirt, and washed with a pressure hose. Large crowns will need to be hacked apart with a hatchet or machete to allow access to dirt and stones lodged at the base of the crown. Roots are pretty stable after washing and may be cold-stored or shipped over several days without molding. However, it makes sense to make the fresh root tincture as soon as possible after washing, which will minimize oxidation.
Storage:
Roots: Wash roots thoroughly and pat dry. Cut pieces larger than 1" into smaller pieces to avoid mold growth during drying. Hang root pieces or lay on a screen away from direct sunlight. When completely dry, store in a tightly covered glass jar. Store in in cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 50-65°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Flowers: Lay cut tops on a screen, or hang them upside down in a dark place. Make sure they aren't so dense that air cannot circulate through them. When completely dry (crumbles when touched), store in a glass jar with tight-fitting lids in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 5-8 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Use Food: Beverage tea from leaves.
Companion Planting:
Peonies, monarda, digitalis, delphinium, scabiosa, campanula, dianthus, and hardy geranium make nice companions.
Coral Bells
How to Grow Coral Bells
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
With Coral Bells, it's best to begin by stratifying your seeds. To do this, simply refrigerate your seeds and put them through a cold period lasting several weeks. Once the flower seed has been refrigerated for several weeks, it can be sown indoors 6 - 8 weeks before the last frost.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little additional medium over the seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
Temperature: 65 - 70F. Ideal 70º-72ºF.
Average Germ Time: 21 - 28 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press it into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Plant Spacing: 12 inches
Direct Sow: Plant in early spring or fall in a full-sun or partially shaded location. Coral Bells prefer loose, well-drained soil, amended with plenty of peat moss or leaf mold. The soil pH should between 6.0 and 7.0.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed. Coral Bells prefers a location that offers morning sun and afternoon shade if you are a southern gardener, or in a sunny location if you are a northern gardener. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 1 foot between seedlings. Regularly watered during their first year of growth.
When outdoor temp: 50˚F to 55˚F at night and 60˚F to 65˚F during the day are ideal.
When min soil temp: 55˚F to 60˚F is ideal.
Spacing: 12"
Rows: Space plants 16 - 24" apart in rows spaced 18 - 24" apart.
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Watering Needs: Keep them well-watered their first year. After that, Coral Bells are fairly drought tolerant.
Fertilization Needs: Fertilize your plants once every 2-3 weeks during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Discontinue feeding after September 1st so your plants can harden off for winter dormancy. Resume fertilizing when new growth appears in spring.
Pruning: Clip off any dead, damaged, or unsightly growth as needed to maintain an attractive appearance. In late fall or early spring, cut each plant back to a few inches above the ground. New growth will emerge as spring temperatures rise. When flowers fade, they can be spun off with a flick of the wrist. If stems get too long they can be cut off with the resulting stub re-sprouting and the piece in your hand replanted to form a new plant. This helps keep your plant compact.
Mulch: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of shredded bark, compost, leaves, straw, or other organic matter around your plants to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and discourage weed growth. Replenish the mulch as needed.
In cold areas, Heuchera plants may heave out of the soil during the winter. Mulching will help prevent the freezing and thawing that pushes the plants up.
Winter period:
Heuchera is winter hardy but will benefit from mulching in very cold areas. The time to winterize your plants is in late fall. When winterizing perennials, keep in mind that the root system is the most vulnerable to cold damage. Mulch heavily by mounding a 6-8 inch layer of shredded bark, compost, leaves, straw, or other organic material over the crown of each plant.
Watering thoroughly in late fall will greatly enhance your plant's cold tolerance once the ground has frozen.
In very cold areas, containerized plants can be brought into an unheated, protected area such as a garage or cellar before temperatures drop below freezing. Check soil moisture every 2-3 weeks and water as needed during winter.
In spring, remove mulch from in-ground plantings. Containerized plants should be moved back out into the garden sunlight where they will begin to repeat their yearly garden performance.
Crop Care after 1st Year:
Dig up and divide plants every third or fourth spring, and replant divisions immediately.
Seed Saving:
1. Gather up a bowl or container to put the seeds and seed heads in.
2. Find a Heuchera that has browning flower stems and seed heads.
3. Now grab the stem with your hand below the last set of seed heads.
4. Now "cup" your hand around the stem and run your hand firmly up the stem to pull off the seed heads and even some stems.
5. Put the seed heads in a bowl. You can see here the very tiny black seeds that have fallen out of the seed heads already.
6. Transfer the seed heads to a paper plate for drying.
7. You can now use a sift to separate the seeds from seed heads and stem chafe.
Companion Planting:
Heucheras are excellent companions for other shade-loving plants such as ferns, hostas, pulmonaria, hellebores, astilbe, and spring bulbs.
Other Uses:
The root can be used as an alum substitute, this is a mordant used in fixing dyes.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
With Coral Bells, it's best to begin by stratifying your seeds. To do this, simply refrigerate your seeds and put them through a cold period lasting several weeks. Once the flower seed has been refrigerated for several weeks, it can be sown indoors 6 - 8 weeks before the last frost.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little additional medium over the seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
Temperature: 65 - 70F. Ideal 70º-72ºF.
Average Germ Time: 21 - 28 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press it into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Plant Spacing: 12 inches
Direct Sow: Plant in early spring or fall in a full-sun or partially shaded location. Coral Bells prefer loose, well-drained soil, amended with plenty of peat moss or leaf mold. The soil pH should between 6.0 and 7.0.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed. Coral Bells prefers a location that offers morning sun and afternoon shade if you are a southern gardener, or in a sunny location if you are a northern gardener. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 1 foot between seedlings. Regularly watered during their first year of growth.
When outdoor temp: 50˚F to 55˚F at night and 60˚F to 65˚F during the day are ideal.
When min soil temp: 55˚F to 60˚F is ideal.
Spacing: 12"
Rows: Space plants 16 - 24" apart in rows spaced 18 - 24" apart.
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Watering Needs: Keep them well-watered their first year. After that, Coral Bells are fairly drought tolerant.
Fertilization Needs: Fertilize your plants once every 2-3 weeks during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Discontinue feeding after September 1st so your plants can harden off for winter dormancy. Resume fertilizing when new growth appears in spring.
Pruning: Clip off any dead, damaged, or unsightly growth as needed to maintain an attractive appearance. In late fall or early spring, cut each plant back to a few inches above the ground. New growth will emerge as spring temperatures rise. When flowers fade, they can be spun off with a flick of the wrist. If stems get too long they can be cut off with the resulting stub re-sprouting and the piece in your hand replanted to form a new plant. This helps keep your plant compact.
Mulch: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of shredded bark, compost, leaves, straw, or other organic matter around your plants to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and discourage weed growth. Replenish the mulch as needed.
In cold areas, Heuchera plants may heave out of the soil during the winter. Mulching will help prevent the freezing and thawing that pushes the plants up.
Winter period:
Heuchera is winter hardy but will benefit from mulching in very cold areas. The time to winterize your plants is in late fall. When winterizing perennials, keep in mind that the root system is the most vulnerable to cold damage. Mulch heavily by mounding a 6-8 inch layer of shredded bark, compost, leaves, straw, or other organic material over the crown of each plant.
Watering thoroughly in late fall will greatly enhance your plant's cold tolerance once the ground has frozen.
In very cold areas, containerized plants can be brought into an unheated, protected area such as a garage or cellar before temperatures drop below freezing. Check soil moisture every 2-3 weeks and water as needed during winter.
In spring, remove mulch from in-ground plantings. Containerized plants should be moved back out into the garden sunlight where they will begin to repeat their yearly garden performance.
Crop Care after 1st Year:
Dig up and divide plants every third or fourth spring, and replant divisions immediately.
Seed Saving:
1. Gather up a bowl or container to put the seeds and seed heads in.
2. Find a Heuchera that has browning flower stems and seed heads.
3. Now grab the stem with your hand below the last set of seed heads.
4. Now "cup" your hand around the stem and run your hand firmly up the stem to pull off the seed heads and even some stems.
5. Put the seed heads in a bowl. You can see here the very tiny black seeds that have fallen out of the seed heads already.
6. Transfer the seed heads to a paper plate for drying.
7. You can now use a sift to separate the seeds from seed heads and stem chafe.
Companion Planting:
Heucheras are excellent companions for other shade-loving plants such as ferns, hostas, pulmonaria, hellebores, astilbe, and spring bulbs.
Other Uses:
The root can be used as an alum substitute, this is a mordant used in fixing dyes.
Cornflower
How to Grow Cornflower
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall or early spring, planting the seeds thinly and 1/4” deep. In the spring, keep the soil moist after sowing; germination should occur within 7-10 days. To start indoors, plant three or four seeds 1/4” below the surface in individual peat pots. Keep the soil lightly moist and at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F until germination; thin to the strongest seedlings. Transplant the seedlings before they reach a height of 5”, placing them 9-12” apart. This plant prefers rather sandy soil.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Mature plants tolerate drought, but prefer adequate moisture and may need occasional watering. Prune off developing tips to force the plant to produce more branches and fuller growth, as well as more flowers. If the stems begin to fall over, provide support. Deadhead spent blossom for the most abundant flowers, keeping in mind that the latest blossoms will need to be left to produce seed; though an annual, it will reseed easily to produce volunteer plants. This plant attracts butterflies and bees, in addition to providing nutritious seeds for birds. Cornflower grows well in containers as well as in the garden.
Harvesting:
Cornflowers make excellent cut flowers and usually have a vase life of 4-5 days. When dried, the flowers retain their color and make a good addition to dried flower arrangements or potpourri. To dry the flowers, choose blossoms that have just begun blooming; pick them as soon as the dew has dried. Bundle the stems and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated, dark place for about 2 weeks.
Seed Saving:
After the flower fades, tiny oblong seeds will form. As soon as the seed can easily be removed, it is mature. Remove the dried seed heads and rub them lightly to separate the seed from the husk. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Wheat, Oats, and Crimson Clover. Cornflowers have an upright posture that helps them fit in tight spaces. Intersperse throughout the garden, as cornflower nectar is unusually sweet, and thus a preferred food source for many beneficial insects.
Direct sow in late fall or early spring, planting the seeds thinly and 1/4” deep. In the spring, keep the soil moist after sowing; germination should occur within 7-10 days. To start indoors, plant three or four seeds 1/4” below the surface in individual peat pots. Keep the soil lightly moist and at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F until germination; thin to the strongest seedlings. Transplant the seedlings before they reach a height of 5”, placing them 9-12” apart. This plant prefers rather sandy soil.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Mature plants tolerate drought, but prefer adequate moisture and may need occasional watering. Prune off developing tips to force the plant to produce more branches and fuller growth, as well as more flowers. If the stems begin to fall over, provide support. Deadhead spent blossom for the most abundant flowers, keeping in mind that the latest blossoms will need to be left to produce seed; though an annual, it will reseed easily to produce volunteer plants. This plant attracts butterflies and bees, in addition to providing nutritious seeds for birds. Cornflower grows well in containers as well as in the garden.
Harvesting:
Cornflowers make excellent cut flowers and usually have a vase life of 4-5 days. When dried, the flowers retain their color and make a good addition to dried flower arrangements or potpourri. To dry the flowers, choose blossoms that have just begun blooming; pick them as soon as the dew has dried. Bundle the stems and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated, dark place for about 2 weeks.
Seed Saving:
After the flower fades, tiny oblong seeds will form. As soon as the seed can easily be removed, it is mature. Remove the dried seed heads and rub them lightly to separate the seed from the husk. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Wheat, Oats, and Crimson Clover. Cornflowers have an upright posture that helps them fit in tight spaces. Intersperse throughout the garden, as cornflower nectar is unusually sweet, and thus a preferred food source for many beneficial insects.
Cosmos
How to Grow Cosmos
Germination:
In early spring or after the last frost, scatter the seeds on the surface of loose soil. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should take place within 10-20 days at soil temperatures from 65-75 degrees F. Cooler soil temperatures may delay germination. Seedlings do not need to be thinned but can be transplanted if they appear too crowded. Since these seeds germinate quickly in warm soil, they can be sown at any time before midsummer for another crop of flowers. To start the seed indoors, sow on the surface of a flat 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring; keep the soil evenly moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination. When there is no chance of frost, transplant them outdoors. The soil does not need to be rich, but it must be well-drained; light shade is tolerated, but will dramatically lessen the amount of blooms.
Crop Care:
Water these plants regularly until they begin to bloom; at this point, they become quite drought-tolerant. This flower must not be over-watered, and grows well in drought conditions and heat; if prolonged drought occurs, give the plants occasional deep watering. If blooming begins to decrease, cut the plant back to 12” for new growth; more blossoms will come in about 4 weeks. Tall plants may need support or staking. If allowed to self-seed, this flower will produce a new crop of flowers next year. This flower attracts birds, butterflies, and bees.
Harvesting:
Cosmos blossoms make lovely, long-lasting cut flowers. Cut long stems of blossoms that have just opened, and remove any foliage that will fall below the water level. These flowers usually have a vase life of 7-10 days. Cosmos blossoms also make attractive dried flowers.
Seed Saving:
Allow the flowers to drop their petals and develop into spiky seed heads. When ripe, the heads will be brown or dark brown and easily broken apart to reveal narrow, sharp seeds. Remove the ripe seed heads and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. When they have completely dried, break apart the heads to separate the seeds from the husk. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Companion Planting:
Vegetable companions:
Tomatoes: Cosmos and tomatoes get along like old friends. Cosmos attract bees and other friendly pollinators, which often pay a visit to tomatoes while they’re in the neighborhood. As a result, the tomato fruit set is increased. For the same reason, cosmos are a beneficial neighbor to squash and many other blooming vegetables.
Beets: Beets actually do fine without cosmos, so what’s the reasoning behind this combination? It’s mainly aesthetic, as the dark red beet leaves are striking against the colorful blooms and lacy foliage of the cosmos plant.
Cosmos flower companion plants:
Cannas: This tall, sturdy, stately plant bears unique blooms in colors ranging from yellow to pink and red, all on tall, stiff stalks. Dwarf varieties of canna are also available.
Marigolds (Tagetes): Marigolds are familiar, hardworking annuals valued for their orange, yellow, or rusty red blooms borne on single, sturdy stems.
Crocosmia: Also known as Monbretia, crocosmia is an interesting plant with bright orange or red funnel-shaped blooms rising above clumps of sword-shaped leaves.
Helenium: Also known as sneezeweed or Helen’s flower, this is a reliable plant that blooms profusely from midsummer to autumn. Helenium comes in shades of rich gold, burnt orange, yellow, mahogany, burgundy, and rust.
Dianthus: Also known as Indian pink or China pink, dianthus are neat, shrubby plants blooming in shades of white, pink, and, red with pink edges.
Poppy: Poppies, a group of colorful plants that include annuals, tender perennials, and biennials, are beloved for their cup-shaped blooms in intense shades of every color except blue.
Verbena: The rugged verbena plant produces dark green foliage and clusters of small, flat blooms in a variety of bright colors.
Cleome: Also known as spider flower, cleome is a fast-growing annual with masses of spiky blooms from early summer until the first frost. Cleome is available in shades of white and pink, as well as a unique shade of purple.
Plant Cosmos throughout the garden. Bad insects won't come near it, but it will attract pollinating wasps, green metallic, sweat, and long-horned bees, lacewings, hoverflies, mini-wasps, pirate damsel bugs, and big-eyed bugs.
These beneficial insects feed on many different garden pests including: aphids, mealybugs, thrips, small caterpillars, mites, moth eggs, some scales, armyworms, codling moths, European corn borer, flies, gypsy moths, cabbageworms, leaf hopper nymph, insect eggs, tarnished plant bugs, and treehoppers.
In early spring or after the last frost, scatter the seeds on the surface of loose soil. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should take place within 10-20 days at soil temperatures from 65-75 degrees F. Cooler soil temperatures may delay germination. Seedlings do not need to be thinned but can be transplanted if they appear too crowded. Since these seeds germinate quickly in warm soil, they can be sown at any time before midsummer for another crop of flowers. To start the seed indoors, sow on the surface of a flat 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring; keep the soil evenly moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination. When there is no chance of frost, transplant them outdoors. The soil does not need to be rich, but it must be well-drained; light shade is tolerated, but will dramatically lessen the amount of blooms.
Crop Care:
Water these plants regularly until they begin to bloom; at this point, they become quite drought-tolerant. This flower must not be over-watered, and grows well in drought conditions and heat; if prolonged drought occurs, give the plants occasional deep watering. If blooming begins to decrease, cut the plant back to 12” for new growth; more blossoms will come in about 4 weeks. Tall plants may need support or staking. If allowed to self-seed, this flower will produce a new crop of flowers next year. This flower attracts birds, butterflies, and bees.
Harvesting:
Cosmos blossoms make lovely, long-lasting cut flowers. Cut long stems of blossoms that have just opened, and remove any foliage that will fall below the water level. These flowers usually have a vase life of 7-10 days. Cosmos blossoms also make attractive dried flowers.
Seed Saving:
Allow the flowers to drop their petals and develop into spiky seed heads. When ripe, the heads will be brown or dark brown and easily broken apart to reveal narrow, sharp seeds. Remove the ripe seed heads and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. When they have completely dried, break apart the heads to separate the seeds from the husk. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Companion Planting:
Vegetable companions:
Tomatoes: Cosmos and tomatoes get along like old friends. Cosmos attract bees and other friendly pollinators, which often pay a visit to tomatoes while they’re in the neighborhood. As a result, the tomato fruit set is increased. For the same reason, cosmos are a beneficial neighbor to squash and many other blooming vegetables.
Beets: Beets actually do fine without cosmos, so what’s the reasoning behind this combination? It’s mainly aesthetic, as the dark red beet leaves are striking against the colorful blooms and lacy foliage of the cosmos plant.
Cosmos flower companion plants:
Cannas: This tall, sturdy, stately plant bears unique blooms in colors ranging from yellow to pink and red, all on tall, stiff stalks. Dwarf varieties of canna are also available.
Marigolds (Tagetes): Marigolds are familiar, hardworking annuals valued for their orange, yellow, or rusty red blooms borne on single, sturdy stems.
Crocosmia: Also known as Monbretia, crocosmia is an interesting plant with bright orange or red funnel-shaped blooms rising above clumps of sword-shaped leaves.
Helenium: Also known as sneezeweed or Helen’s flower, this is a reliable plant that blooms profusely from midsummer to autumn. Helenium comes in shades of rich gold, burnt orange, yellow, mahogany, burgundy, and rust.
Dianthus: Also known as Indian pink or China pink, dianthus are neat, shrubby plants blooming in shades of white, pink, and, red with pink edges.
Poppy: Poppies, a group of colorful plants that include annuals, tender perennials, and biennials, are beloved for their cup-shaped blooms in intense shades of every color except blue.
Verbena: The rugged verbena plant produces dark green foliage and clusters of small, flat blooms in a variety of bright colors.
Cleome: Also known as spider flower, cleome is a fast-growing annual with masses of spiky blooms from early summer until the first frost. Cleome is available in shades of white and pink, as well as a unique shade of purple.
Plant Cosmos throughout the garden. Bad insects won't come near it, but it will attract pollinating wasps, green metallic, sweat, and long-horned bees, lacewings, hoverflies, mini-wasps, pirate damsel bugs, and big-eyed bugs.
These beneficial insects feed on many different garden pests including: aphids, mealybugs, thrips, small caterpillars, mites, moth eggs, some scales, armyworms, codling moths, European corn borer, flies, gypsy moths, cabbageworms, leaf hopper nymph, insect eggs, tarnished plant bugs, and treehoppers.
Dahlia
How to Grow Dahlia
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little peat moss over the seeds but do not cover them fully and add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
When: 6-8 weeks before the last frost.
Temperature: 65 - 70F
Average Germ Time: 3 - 21 days
Light Required: No
Depth: Lightly cover with peat moss
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Direct Sow: Plant in early spring or fall in a full-sun or partially shaded location. Coral Bells prefer loose, well-drained soil, amended with plenty of peat moss or leaf mold. The soil pH should between 5.5 and 6.5.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Dahlia prefer rich, well-draining, and neutral to acidic soils with an average pH of 5.5 - 6.5. In colder areas, Dahlia appreciates full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 14" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain medium moisture when seedlings are young.
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F. The ideal temperatures for these flowers range from 68 to 72 °F during the day with a minimum of 60 °F at night.
When outdoor soil temp: 60 °F.
Spacing: 14"
Support: No
Crop Care:
Water Needs: Dahlias (especially young specimens) will do just fine without too much water. These drought-tolerant plants must not over-watered! They are susceptible to root rot, so it is always better to provide your Dahlias with water only when needed. In general, Dahlias require at least one inch of water weekly to grow healthy and happy.
Fertilization Needs: From spring to August, Dahlia plants will benefit greatly from regular feedings with a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. As a general rule, the more fertilizer these flowering plants get, the larger and stronger roots they will develop
Pruning: Limit each plant to 3 to 5 flowering stems if you want giant blooms. More flowers take up more of the dahlia’s energy, resulting in smaller flowers. To get the biggest dahlia blooms, restrict the number of flowers on each plant, so the energy can be directed towards growing just a few large flowers.
Over-wintering: Dahlias are tender annuals, but you can overwinter them pretty easily. In fall, after the first frost has blackened the foliage, cut off all but 2 to 4 inches of top growth, and carefully dig tubers without damaging them. Allow tubers to dry for a few days in a frost-free location, out of direct sunlight. Once dried, remove any excess soil, leaving 1 to 2 inches of stem. Store each clump of tubers in a ventilated box or basket. Fill the box with slightly moistened sand, peat moss, or vermiculite and place it in a cool, dry location with temperatures that remain between 45 and 55 degrees F. Check tubers periodically through winter for rotting and drying out. If the tubers appear shriveled, mist them lightly with water. If any start to rot, trim the rotted portion of the clump so it won't spread. The tubers are fragile, so be careful when handling them.
Harvesting:
The best time to cut dahlia flowers is in the cool of the morning. Snip horizontally with clean pruners or scissors, taking stems long enough. Choose flowers that are open or nearly open because the buds will not open once they're cut. You should cut as much length as you need but try to make the cut just above a set of leaf nodes and side buds. New shoots will grow from those nodes.
After you've harvested dahlia flowers, make a fresh horizontal cut at the bottom of the stem and place the cut ends in about 2-3" of very hot (not quite boiling) water. Let the stems stay in the water for at least one hour. This hot-water treatment conditions the stems so the blooms will last four to six days.
Once the cut stems have been conditioned, strip off all leaves that would be below the water line in your vase. This is true for all flower arrangements, not just dahlias. When leaves stay underwater, they decay and release bacteria that shorten the vase life of the flowers. Change the water in the vase every two or three days, adding a floral preservative to help the blooms last longer. Dahlias can be combined with other cut flowers to create beautiful effects, but dahlia arrangements are spectacular on their own.
Seed Saving:
Harvest ripe, ready pods. Pods contain numerous seeds. Wait until the flower has dropped all its ray petals and the pod is a light tan-green color. The seeds inside should be ripe and gray to dark brown. Cut the pod off and let it dry to facilitate the removal of the seeds. Separate the seed from the rest of the pod and allow let dry before storing.
Culinary:
Edible parts of Dahlia: The flower petals are used in salads. Root - cooked and used as a vegetable. A bitter flavor. A sweet extract of the tuber, called "dacopa", is used as a beverage or as a flavoring. It is mixed with hot or cold water and sprinkled on ice cream. Its naturally sweet mellow taste is said to combine the characteristics of coffee, tea, and chocolate. The root is rich in the starch inulin. Whilst not absorbed by the body, this starch can be converted into fructose, a sweetening substance suitable for diabetics to use.
Medicinal:
Companion Planting:
They make for great companions to other perennial species of plants, such as Agastache ‘Black Adder’, Aster amellus ‘King George’, Echinacea purpurea, Echinopsis, Geranium, Sage, Stonecrop, Lily, Kniphofia, and Monarda.
Other Uses:
An orange dye is obtained from the flowers and seed heads.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little peat moss over the seeds but do not cover them fully and add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
When: 6-8 weeks before the last frost.
Temperature: 65 - 70F
Average Germ Time: 3 - 21 days
Light Required: No
Depth: Lightly cover with peat moss
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Direct Sow: Plant in early spring or fall in a full-sun or partially shaded location. Coral Bells prefer loose, well-drained soil, amended with plenty of peat moss or leaf mold. The soil pH should between 5.5 and 6.5.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Dahlia prefer rich, well-draining, and neutral to acidic soils with an average pH of 5.5 - 6.5. In colder areas, Dahlia appreciates full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 14" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain medium moisture when seedlings are young.
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F. The ideal temperatures for these flowers range from 68 to 72 °F during the day with a minimum of 60 °F at night.
When outdoor soil temp: 60 °F.
Spacing: 14"
Support: No
Crop Care:
Water Needs: Dahlias (especially young specimens) will do just fine without too much water. These drought-tolerant plants must not over-watered! They are susceptible to root rot, so it is always better to provide your Dahlias with water only when needed. In general, Dahlias require at least one inch of water weekly to grow healthy and happy.
Fertilization Needs: From spring to August, Dahlia plants will benefit greatly from regular feedings with a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. As a general rule, the more fertilizer these flowering plants get, the larger and stronger roots they will develop
Pruning: Limit each plant to 3 to 5 flowering stems if you want giant blooms. More flowers take up more of the dahlia’s energy, resulting in smaller flowers. To get the biggest dahlia blooms, restrict the number of flowers on each plant, so the energy can be directed towards growing just a few large flowers.
Over-wintering: Dahlias are tender annuals, but you can overwinter them pretty easily. In fall, after the first frost has blackened the foliage, cut off all but 2 to 4 inches of top growth, and carefully dig tubers without damaging them. Allow tubers to dry for a few days in a frost-free location, out of direct sunlight. Once dried, remove any excess soil, leaving 1 to 2 inches of stem. Store each clump of tubers in a ventilated box or basket. Fill the box with slightly moistened sand, peat moss, or vermiculite and place it in a cool, dry location with temperatures that remain between 45 and 55 degrees F. Check tubers periodically through winter for rotting and drying out. If the tubers appear shriveled, mist them lightly with water. If any start to rot, trim the rotted portion of the clump so it won't spread. The tubers are fragile, so be careful when handling them.
Harvesting:
The best time to cut dahlia flowers is in the cool of the morning. Snip horizontally with clean pruners or scissors, taking stems long enough. Choose flowers that are open or nearly open because the buds will not open once they're cut. You should cut as much length as you need but try to make the cut just above a set of leaf nodes and side buds. New shoots will grow from those nodes.
After you've harvested dahlia flowers, make a fresh horizontal cut at the bottom of the stem and place the cut ends in about 2-3" of very hot (not quite boiling) water. Let the stems stay in the water for at least one hour. This hot-water treatment conditions the stems so the blooms will last four to six days.
Once the cut stems have been conditioned, strip off all leaves that would be below the water line in your vase. This is true for all flower arrangements, not just dahlias. When leaves stay underwater, they decay and release bacteria that shorten the vase life of the flowers. Change the water in the vase every two or three days, adding a floral preservative to help the blooms last longer. Dahlias can be combined with other cut flowers to create beautiful effects, but dahlia arrangements are spectacular on their own.
Seed Saving:
Harvest ripe, ready pods. Pods contain numerous seeds. Wait until the flower has dropped all its ray petals and the pod is a light tan-green color. The seeds inside should be ripe and gray to dark brown. Cut the pod off and let it dry to facilitate the removal of the seeds. Separate the seed from the rest of the pod and allow let dry before storing.
Culinary:
Edible parts of Dahlia: The flower petals are used in salads. Root - cooked and used as a vegetable. A bitter flavor. A sweet extract of the tuber, called "dacopa", is used as a beverage or as a flavoring. It is mixed with hot or cold water and sprinkled on ice cream. Its naturally sweet mellow taste is said to combine the characteristics of coffee, tea, and chocolate. The root is rich in the starch inulin. Whilst not absorbed by the body, this starch can be converted into fructose, a sweetening substance suitable for diabetics to use.
Medicinal:
Companion Planting:
They make for great companions to other perennial species of plants, such as Agastache ‘Black Adder’, Aster amellus ‘King George’, Echinacea purpurea, Echinopsis, Geranium, Sage, Stonecrop, Lily, Kniphofia, and Monarda.
Other Uses:
An orange dye is obtained from the flowers and seed heads.
Daisy
How to Grow Daisy
Germination:
For the best growth, start the seed indoors in late winter. Sow on the surface in a flat, covering them thinly with soil; keep the soil consistently moist and at a temperature of 65-70 degrees until germination, which should take place within 10-14 days. Transplant outdoors when the soil has thoroughly warmed, several weeks after the last frost. In warmer climates, the seed can be direct sown; cover them lightly to keep them from blowing away, and keep the soil consistently moist until germination. This plant adapts well to poor or dry soil.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings consistently moist until they have become established; mature plants are fairly drought tolerant, though they will grow well with regular watering. This plant takes about three months to flower when grown from seed. Deadheading will help the plant produce the most blossoms. Though an annual, it will reseed itself and come back as a perennial if allowed to drop its seed. This plant grows well in rock gardens or dry areas and attracts butterflies and bees.
Harvesting:
This lovely daisy closes without the rays of the sun and does not make a suitable cut flower.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, this plant will produce flat, papery seeds. Since the wind often blows them away, they should be gathered as soon as they have ripened to a light tan color. Shake the seeds into a container. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Vygies, Felicia filifolia, Gazanias, and Arctotis.
For the best growth, start the seed indoors in late winter. Sow on the surface in a flat, covering them thinly with soil; keep the soil consistently moist and at a temperature of 65-70 degrees until germination, which should take place within 10-14 days. Transplant outdoors when the soil has thoroughly warmed, several weeks after the last frost. In warmer climates, the seed can be direct sown; cover them lightly to keep them from blowing away, and keep the soil consistently moist until germination. This plant adapts well to poor or dry soil.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings consistently moist until they have become established; mature plants are fairly drought tolerant, though they will grow well with regular watering. This plant takes about three months to flower when grown from seed. Deadheading will help the plant produce the most blossoms. Though an annual, it will reseed itself and come back as a perennial if allowed to drop its seed. This plant grows well in rock gardens or dry areas and attracts butterflies and bees.
Harvesting:
This lovely daisy closes without the rays of the sun and does not make a suitable cut flower.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, this plant will produce flat, papery seeds. Since the wind often blows them away, they should be gathered as soon as they have ripened to a light tan color. Shake the seeds into a container. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Vygies, Felicia filifolia, Gazanias, and Arctotis.
Dame's Rocket
How to Grow Dame's Rocket
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, pressing the seed into the surface of the soil; keep it moist until germination. To start indoors, sow the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; keep the soil moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination, which usually occurs within 21-30 days. Transplant the seedlings after the last chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Though this plant tolerates some drought, it will flourish with regular moisture. In its first year of growth, it will produce mostly leaves; full bloom usually occurs in its second year. It does not appreciate excess heat and humidity. This plant will adapt to almost any soil with adequate moisture. This plant self-seeds heavily and can become very aggressive. To help prevent this, remove the spent flower heads before the seed pods develop; this will also encourage a second blooming. These flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds while resisting deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
As the flower cluster comes to the end of its blooming, the plant will produce very long, thin green pods that eventually split in half to release mature brown seeds. Remove the pods when as soon as the seed has ripened but before they split, and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Crush or shake them lightly to release the seeds. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Young leaves: raw. Rich in vitamin C, they are used as a cress substitute in salads. A rather bitter flavor, though many people like the extra tang it gives to salads. For culinary purposes, the leaves should be picked before the plant flowers.
Seeds: The seed can be sprouted and added to salads. The seed contains 50% of edible oil - there is a potential for cultivation.
Medicinal:
The leaves are antiscorbutic, diaphoretic, and diuretic. They are best harvested when the plant is in flower.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Bee Balm, Speedwell, Hydrangea, Columbine, and Common Foxglove.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Direct sow in early spring, pressing the seed into the surface of the soil; keep it moist until germination. To start indoors, sow the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; keep the soil moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination, which usually occurs within 21-30 days. Transplant the seedlings after the last chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Though this plant tolerates some drought, it will flourish with regular moisture. In its first year of growth, it will produce mostly leaves; full bloom usually occurs in its second year. It does not appreciate excess heat and humidity. This plant will adapt to almost any soil with adequate moisture. This plant self-seeds heavily and can become very aggressive. To help prevent this, remove the spent flower heads before the seed pods develop; this will also encourage a second blooming. These flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds while resisting deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
As the flower cluster comes to the end of its blooming, the plant will produce very long, thin green pods that eventually split in half to release mature brown seeds. Remove the pods when as soon as the seed has ripened but before they split, and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Crush or shake them lightly to release the seeds. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Young leaves: raw. Rich in vitamin C, they are used as a cress substitute in salads. A rather bitter flavor, though many people like the extra tang it gives to salads. For culinary purposes, the leaves should be picked before the plant flowers.
Seeds: The seed can be sprouted and added to salads. The seed contains 50% of edible oil - there is a potential for cultivation.
Medicinal:
The leaves are antiscorbutic, diaphoretic, and diuretic. They are best harvested when the plant is in flower.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Bee Balm, Speedwell, Hydrangea, Columbine, and Common Foxglove.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Dusty Miller
How to Grow Dusty Miller
Germination:
Start your seeds indoors by sowing 4 seeds per cell in your seed starting tray 4-6 weeks before your last frost date. Be sure to sow your seeds evenly and then lightly cover them with peat moss. Keep the soil moist at 65-75 degrees F and seedlings should emerge in 10-21 days. Place your seedlings on a sunny windowsill or 3-4" under a fluorescent grow light as soon as they emerge. This variety requires darkness to grow as well so be sure to give them no more than 16 hours of light per day. Thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of leaves. By 3-4 weeks your seedlings will require a starter solution fertilizer which should only be half the strength of houseplant food. Be sure to harden off your seedlings 1 week before transplanting them outdoors by moving them to a location outside where they will be protected from the hot sun and heavy winds.
Sow your seeds outdoors in full sun and in well-drained soil after all danger of frost has passed your area. Sow thinly and evenly and cover with ¼ inch of soil and keep it evenly moist. Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days depending on the soil and weather conditions. Thin your seedlings 6 inches apart when they are 1-2 inches high.
Harvesting:
Harvest stems at your desired length and simply hang them to dry.
Seed Saving:
Keep an eye on your Silverdust plants during the summer to determine which ones are free of diseases. You want to select the plants that have remained healthy all summer and have grown to their full potential.
Wait for the seeds to dry out on the dusty miller plants at the end of the summer. Stop watering them a few weeks before you plan to harvest the seeds. This way the seedheads will dry out completely while still attached to the plants.
Remove the seedheads from the healthy Silverdust plants. Shake the seeds out into a brown lunch bag. If the seeds don't come out with a hard shake, you may need to crush the pod manually and extract the seeds with your hands.
Toss a silica gel packet inside the brown lunch bag to keep the bag free from moisture.
Fold down the top of the lunch bag and place it inside a glass jar. Tighten the lid and set the jar in a cool dry location until spring.
Medicinal:
The fresh juice of the leaves is ophthalmic. Applied to the eyes it has a mildly irritating effect that increases blood flow to the area, helping to strengthen resistance and clear away infections. One or two drops put into the eyes is said to be of use in removing cataracts and also in the treatment of conjunctivitis. This remedy should only be used under the supervision of a trained practitioner.
Known hazards: The plant contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids which are highly toxic to the liver, so the plant should not be used internally.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Angelonia, Basil, and Petunias.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to rust.
Start your seeds indoors by sowing 4 seeds per cell in your seed starting tray 4-6 weeks before your last frost date. Be sure to sow your seeds evenly and then lightly cover them with peat moss. Keep the soil moist at 65-75 degrees F and seedlings should emerge in 10-21 days. Place your seedlings on a sunny windowsill or 3-4" under a fluorescent grow light as soon as they emerge. This variety requires darkness to grow as well so be sure to give them no more than 16 hours of light per day. Thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of leaves. By 3-4 weeks your seedlings will require a starter solution fertilizer which should only be half the strength of houseplant food. Be sure to harden off your seedlings 1 week before transplanting them outdoors by moving them to a location outside where they will be protected from the hot sun and heavy winds.
Sow your seeds outdoors in full sun and in well-drained soil after all danger of frost has passed your area. Sow thinly and evenly and cover with ¼ inch of soil and keep it evenly moist. Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days depending on the soil and weather conditions. Thin your seedlings 6 inches apart when they are 1-2 inches high.
Harvesting:
Harvest stems at your desired length and simply hang them to dry.
Seed Saving:
Keep an eye on your Silverdust plants during the summer to determine which ones are free of diseases. You want to select the plants that have remained healthy all summer and have grown to their full potential.
Wait for the seeds to dry out on the dusty miller plants at the end of the summer. Stop watering them a few weeks before you plan to harvest the seeds. This way the seedheads will dry out completely while still attached to the plants.
Remove the seedheads from the healthy Silverdust plants. Shake the seeds out into a brown lunch bag. If the seeds don't come out with a hard shake, you may need to crush the pod manually and extract the seeds with your hands.
Toss a silica gel packet inside the brown lunch bag to keep the bag free from moisture.
Fold down the top of the lunch bag and place it inside a glass jar. Tighten the lid and set the jar in a cool dry location until spring.
Medicinal:
The fresh juice of the leaves is ophthalmic. Applied to the eyes it has a mildly irritating effect that increases blood flow to the area, helping to strengthen resistance and clear away infections. One or two drops put into the eyes is said to be of use in removing cataracts and also in the treatment of conjunctivitis. This remedy should only be used under the supervision of a trained practitioner.
Known hazards: The plant contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids which are highly toxic to the liver, so the plant should not be used internally.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Angelonia, Basil, and Petunias.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to rust.
False Goats Beard
How to Grow False Goats Beard
Germination:
Use a loose, soft soil mix, and plant the Astilbe seeds on the surface, pressing them into the soil. Make sure that the soil drains well and can keep the flower seeds moist, but not wet, at all times. For the best results, add in a little fertilizer that has a high concentration of nitrogen. Keep the Astilbe plants inside until the seedlings reach about 2 inches in height.
Sow Indoors: Spring (6-8 weeks before the last frost)
Temperature: 65 - 70F
Average Germ Time: 28 - 35 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover
Sowing Rate:10 - 12 seeds per plant
Moisture: Keep moist until germination
Sow Outdoors: Spring
After all danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings to a protected, partially shady area of the garden in well-amended soil that is loose, nutrient-rich, and well-draining.
Crop Care:
Watering: Your plants will need to be watered deeply (but not overwatered to where the soil becomes soggy) every week, more so during rainless periods of summer.
Fertilizing: Each spring, you will need to amend your soil with a 1-2" layer of compost to promote new growth and flowering. Add an additional side dressing in early summer.
Trimming & Pruning: To reduce the number of overwintering insects and diseases this variety should be cut to the ground in fall.
Mulching: In spring, you will need to apply a mulch to suppress weeds, and to help maintain moisture to prevent your soil from drying out.
Dividing & Transplanting: Over time, your plants will spread and they will need to be divided every third year. This is done by digging up the root clump in spring or early fall and dividing it into 1' sections. Then simply replant and keep watered well.
Culinary:
Young shoots.
Companion Planting:
Japanese and Siberian iris, trilliums, ferns, hostas, cimicifuga, ligularia, and, annual impatiens.
Use a loose, soft soil mix, and plant the Astilbe seeds on the surface, pressing them into the soil. Make sure that the soil drains well and can keep the flower seeds moist, but not wet, at all times. For the best results, add in a little fertilizer that has a high concentration of nitrogen. Keep the Astilbe plants inside until the seedlings reach about 2 inches in height.
Sow Indoors: Spring (6-8 weeks before the last frost)
Temperature: 65 - 70F
Average Germ Time: 28 - 35 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover
Sowing Rate:10 - 12 seeds per plant
Moisture: Keep moist until germination
Sow Outdoors: Spring
After all danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings to a protected, partially shady area of the garden in well-amended soil that is loose, nutrient-rich, and well-draining.
Crop Care:
Watering: Your plants will need to be watered deeply (but not overwatered to where the soil becomes soggy) every week, more so during rainless periods of summer.
Fertilizing: Each spring, you will need to amend your soil with a 1-2" layer of compost to promote new growth and flowering. Add an additional side dressing in early summer.
Trimming & Pruning: To reduce the number of overwintering insects and diseases this variety should be cut to the ground in fall.
Mulching: In spring, you will need to apply a mulch to suppress weeds, and to help maintain moisture to prevent your soil from drying out.
Dividing & Transplanting: Over time, your plants will spread and they will need to be divided every third year. This is done by digging up the root clump in spring or early fall and dividing it into 1' sections. Then simply replant and keep watered well.
Culinary:
Young shoots.
Companion Planting:
Japanese and Siberian iris, trilliums, ferns, hostas, cimicifuga, ligularia, and, annual impatiens.
Five Spot
How to Grow Five Spot
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, pressing lightly into the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin, or transplant for wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Keep the plants watered since they do not appreciate dry soil and soon wither in drought. This annual grows quickly and dies with the first frost, though it may reseed for a new crop next year. Its sprawling habit makes it an excellent choice for massed plantings, hanging baskets, and borders. Keep in mind that this plant does not do well in excessive heat and dislikes being transplanted.
Harvesting:
These short-lived blossoms do not make good cut flowers and are best enjoyed in the wild.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open at the top to reveal the ripe seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have opened; watch them carefully to prevent loss. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
This species works very well with other annual or herbaceous perennial wildflowers in a meadow garden, including the closely related Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Clarkia sp., Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Gilia sp., Lupinus sp., Penstemon sp., Phacelia sp., and many others. Also works well with geophytes such as Brodiaea sp., Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), and Dichelostemma sp., as well as various cactus and succulent species such as Dudleya sp.
Direct sow in early spring, pressing lightly into the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin, or transplant for wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Keep the plants watered since they do not appreciate dry soil and soon wither in drought. This annual grows quickly and dies with the first frost, though it may reseed for a new crop next year. Its sprawling habit makes it an excellent choice for massed plantings, hanging baskets, and borders. Keep in mind that this plant does not do well in excessive heat and dislikes being transplanted.
Harvesting:
These short-lived blossoms do not make good cut flowers and are best enjoyed in the wild.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open at the top to reveal the ripe seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have opened; watch them carefully to prevent loss. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
This species works very well with other annual or herbaceous perennial wildflowers in a meadow garden, including the closely related Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Clarkia sp., Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Gilia sp., Lupinus sp., Penstemon sp., Phacelia sp., and many others. Also works well with geophytes such as Brodiaea sp., Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), and Dichelostemma sp., as well as various cactus and succulent species such as Dudleya sp.
Four O' Clocks
How to Grow Four O' Clocks
Germination:
No pre-treatment is needed. Sow seeds indoors under grow lights 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date and transplant seedlings into the garden as well. Transplants will bloom earlier than direct-seeded plants.
The easiest method is to direct seed them outdoors, just before your last frost date. Soaking the seeds overnight, before planting, can speed germination, but the seeds germinate almost as quickly as they grow. Chances are good that if you allow your plants to go to seed in the fall, they will self-seed in the garden. Seedlings can be easily pulled and moved to another section.
Plant in a full sun or part-shaded bed in well-drained, compost-amended soil. Sow seeds or transplant seedlings 1 to 2 feet apart. You can also plant four-o-clocks in 1 to 5-gallon-sized pots growing 2 to 5 plants per pot depending on the pot size. Keep the containers well-watered and fertilized monthly.
Crop Care:
Keep plants well watered and weeded. Fertilize in mid-summer with organic plant food to spur more growth and flowering. Fertilize more often for plants growing in containers.
Seed Saving:
Select a healthy four o'clock plant that is blooming well. Monitor the flowers on the selected plants and begin checking for seeds once the petals fall off naturally.
Separate the green leaves that were around the base of each flower before the petals fell. Locate the large black seed nestled in the center of the old flower.
Slip the seed out of the center of each dead flower with your thumb. Alternatively, snip off the old flower heads then remove the seeds from the old flower heads.
Spread the seeds out on a paper plate in a single layer. Dry them in a low-moisture, warm area out of direct sunlight for five to seven days.
Store the seeds in a tightly sealed jar or container in a cool, dark area until planting. Label the container with the four o'clock variety and year harvested.
Medicinal:
The four o’clock flower was cultivated by the Aztecs for medicinal and ornamental purposes. It is also said to have been exported from the Peruvian Andes in 1540. It has become naturalized in many parts of the Southern U.S. and was introduced into Europe by the Spaniards in 1596.
In herbal medicine, parts of the plant may be used as a purgative, diuretic, and for wound healing purposes. The leaf juice is used to treat wounds. The leaves are diuretic, while a decoction is used to treat abscesses. They are used to reduce inflammation.
The root is considered a diuretic as well as an aphrodisiac and purgative. It is used in the treatment of dropsy. A paste of the root is applied as a poultice to treat muscular swellings and scabies. The juice of the root is used in the treatment of diarrhea, fever, and indigestion. The powdered root, mixed with corn flour (Zea mays) is baked and used in the treatment of menstrual disorders.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Four o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa) are bushy and fragrant annuals often growing over 2 feet high and wide. They can bring a lot of color to the vegetable garden and are reported to draw away Japanese beetles. Reports suggest that the leaves of four o'clocks are poisonous to these noxious insects, killing them before they attack nearby vegetable crops. Four o'clocks often self-seed, making them an extremely easy partner in the garden.
Some gardeners plant Chinese Southern giant mustard (Brassica juncea) in borders to divert flea beetles from their cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, and collard greens). Four o’clock (Mirabilis), which attracts Japanese beetles, then poisons them with a toxin in its foliage is another good companion.
No pre-treatment is needed. Sow seeds indoors under grow lights 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date and transplant seedlings into the garden as well. Transplants will bloom earlier than direct-seeded plants.
The easiest method is to direct seed them outdoors, just before your last frost date. Soaking the seeds overnight, before planting, can speed germination, but the seeds germinate almost as quickly as they grow. Chances are good that if you allow your plants to go to seed in the fall, they will self-seed in the garden. Seedlings can be easily pulled and moved to another section.
Plant in a full sun or part-shaded bed in well-drained, compost-amended soil. Sow seeds or transplant seedlings 1 to 2 feet apart. You can also plant four-o-clocks in 1 to 5-gallon-sized pots growing 2 to 5 plants per pot depending on the pot size. Keep the containers well-watered and fertilized monthly.
Crop Care:
Keep plants well watered and weeded. Fertilize in mid-summer with organic plant food to spur more growth and flowering. Fertilize more often for plants growing in containers.
Seed Saving:
Select a healthy four o'clock plant that is blooming well. Monitor the flowers on the selected plants and begin checking for seeds once the petals fall off naturally.
Separate the green leaves that were around the base of each flower before the petals fell. Locate the large black seed nestled in the center of the old flower.
Slip the seed out of the center of each dead flower with your thumb. Alternatively, snip off the old flower heads then remove the seeds from the old flower heads.
Spread the seeds out on a paper plate in a single layer. Dry them in a low-moisture, warm area out of direct sunlight for five to seven days.
Store the seeds in a tightly sealed jar or container in a cool, dark area until planting. Label the container with the four o'clock variety and year harvested.
Medicinal:
The four o’clock flower was cultivated by the Aztecs for medicinal and ornamental purposes. It is also said to have been exported from the Peruvian Andes in 1540. It has become naturalized in many parts of the Southern U.S. and was introduced into Europe by the Spaniards in 1596.
In herbal medicine, parts of the plant may be used as a purgative, diuretic, and for wound healing purposes. The leaf juice is used to treat wounds. The leaves are diuretic, while a decoction is used to treat abscesses. They are used to reduce inflammation.
The root is considered a diuretic as well as an aphrodisiac and purgative. It is used in the treatment of dropsy. A paste of the root is applied as a poultice to treat muscular swellings and scabies. The juice of the root is used in the treatment of diarrhea, fever, and indigestion. The powdered root, mixed with corn flour (Zea mays) is baked and used in the treatment of menstrual disorders.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Four o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa) are bushy and fragrant annuals often growing over 2 feet high and wide. They can bring a lot of color to the vegetable garden and are reported to draw away Japanese beetles. Reports suggest that the leaves of four o'clocks are poisonous to these noxious insects, killing them before they attack nearby vegetable crops. Four o'clocks often self-seed, making them an extremely easy partner in the garden.
Some gardeners plant Chinese Southern giant mustard (Brassica juncea) in borders to divert flea beetles from their cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, and collard greens). Four o’clock (Mirabilis), which attracts Japanese beetles, then poisons them with a toxin in its foliage is another good companion.
Fox Glove
How to Grow Foxglove
Germination:
Direct sow in spring after the last frost, mixing the fine seed with sand to distribute it evenly. Cover it very thinly by scattering soil on top, and water lightly to avoid disturbing the seeds. Germination should take place within 3-4 weeks with a soil temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Thin or transplant seedlings 10-12” apart. This plant prefers light, moist soil and partial shade but can tolerate full sun with adequate moisture.
Crop Care:
This plant prefers consistently moist soil that drains well since soggy soil can cause disease. Water well especially in dry periods; a layer of mulch may help conserve moisture. In its first year of growth, foxglove will develop a low rosette of thick leaves; the flowering stalk will come in the second year. If the foliage becomes infected with powdery mildew or leaf spot, begin treatment immediately since this can damage the entire plant; either remove the infected leaves or apply a safe fungicide. Insects such as aphids, slugs, and Japanese beetles also tend to target this plant. Since a single plant can produce up to two million seeds, they will firmly establish themselves as perennials and can be rather invasive if left to themselves. The wilted flower stalks can be removed to prevent this, or the young seedlings can easily be transplanted elsewhere. This plant makes an excellent background plant because of its height and attracts bees and hummingbirds as well as resisting deer and rabbits.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. Handle carefully, since this entire plant is poisonous to humans and animals and can be fatal if ingested.
Seed Saving:
Watch the developing seed heads carefully, since they will split and release their seeds when fully ripe. As soon as the seed head can easily be opened to reveal ripe brown seed, it is ready to harvest. Remove the entire stalk or individual heads as they ripen, shaking out the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Good companion plants for foxgloves are: Snapdragons, Zinnias, Phlox, Nicotiana, Lobelia, Cornflower, Dianthus, and Portulaca. The blue color of the Lobelia and Cornflower makes a perfect complement to the pink and purple Foxgloves in your garden. Match Zinnias of multiple colors with Foxgloves to create a striking combination of textures.
While some flowers may at first seem attractive when matched with the Foxglove, consider that the plant grows an average of 2 to 3 feet tall. Ground covers like Creeping Phlox and Alyssum will look better as border plants or next to shorter plants. Aim for the companion flowers to be at least 8 inches tall, and your Foxgloves will look great when blended in with them.
Direct sow in spring after the last frost, mixing the fine seed with sand to distribute it evenly. Cover it very thinly by scattering soil on top, and water lightly to avoid disturbing the seeds. Germination should take place within 3-4 weeks with a soil temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Thin or transplant seedlings 10-12” apart. This plant prefers light, moist soil and partial shade but can tolerate full sun with adequate moisture.
Crop Care:
This plant prefers consistently moist soil that drains well since soggy soil can cause disease. Water well especially in dry periods; a layer of mulch may help conserve moisture. In its first year of growth, foxglove will develop a low rosette of thick leaves; the flowering stalk will come in the second year. If the foliage becomes infected with powdery mildew or leaf spot, begin treatment immediately since this can damage the entire plant; either remove the infected leaves or apply a safe fungicide. Insects such as aphids, slugs, and Japanese beetles also tend to target this plant. Since a single plant can produce up to two million seeds, they will firmly establish themselves as perennials and can be rather invasive if left to themselves. The wilted flower stalks can be removed to prevent this, or the young seedlings can easily be transplanted elsewhere. This plant makes an excellent background plant because of its height and attracts bees and hummingbirds as well as resisting deer and rabbits.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. Handle carefully, since this entire plant is poisonous to humans and animals and can be fatal if ingested.
Seed Saving:
Watch the developing seed heads carefully, since they will split and release their seeds when fully ripe. As soon as the seed head can easily be opened to reveal ripe brown seed, it is ready to harvest. Remove the entire stalk or individual heads as they ripen, shaking out the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Good companion plants for foxgloves are: Snapdragons, Zinnias, Phlox, Nicotiana, Lobelia, Cornflower, Dianthus, and Portulaca. The blue color of the Lobelia and Cornflower makes a perfect complement to the pink and purple Foxgloves in your garden. Match Zinnias of multiple colors with Foxgloves to create a striking combination of textures.
While some flowers may at first seem attractive when matched with the Foxglove, consider that the plant grows an average of 2 to 3 feet tall. Ground covers like Creeping Phlox and Alyssum will look better as border plants or next to shorter plants. Aim for the companion flowers to be at least 8 inches tall, and your Foxgloves will look great when blended in with them.
Gas Plant
How to Grow Gas Plant
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Spring Planting:
To plant Gas plant in the springtime, the seeds will need to be stratified first which can take from 1-6 months and may require several rounds of refrigeration. There are three different mediums you could use to stratify your seeds in a refrigerator which is normally determined by the size of the seeds you are stratifying: a potting mix, sand, or a napkin. Choosing the right medium is important because it is impossible to separate super tiny seeds from a potting mix or sand later on.
Stratification by Potting Soil or Sand:
1) Fill a container with moist potting mix or sand.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on top of the potting mix, or sand.
3) Sprinkle an additional 1/8" soil mix or sand over your seeds and mist with a water bottle.
4) Add a label with the plant name and date and cover your container with plastic.
4) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the potting mix dry out.
5) Remove from the refrigerator after 4-6 weeds.
Stratification by Napkin:
1) Moisten a napkin using a water bottle.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on only half of the napkin
3) Fold the side of the napkin with no seeds on it over the half of napkin with the seeds on it.
4) Insect the napkin into a zip lock bag and seal it.
5) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the napkin dry out.
6) Remove from the refrigerator after 4-6 weeks.
Germinating Gas Plant Flower Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter stratified seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Sprinkle a little additional 1/8" soil mix over the seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 65 to 72°F.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Seedlings should emerge within two months.
6) If no seedlings sprout, cover your tray with plastic and put it back into the refrigerator for another 5-6 weeks, and the repeat process. If seedlings begin to sprout during the 2nd round of refrigeration, then remove your tray and set it in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 65 to 72°F.
Temperature: 65-72F. Ideal 70F.
Average Germ Time: 100-140 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: 1/8"
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Fall Planting:
In late fall, direct sow 2-3 of your Gas plant seeds in a deep hole full of compost 32" apart in fertile and well-drained soils that has a pH between 5.5 and 7.0.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Gas plant prefers full sun and moist fertile, well-drained soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 7.0 but prefers it on the slightly acidic to neutral side.
Gas plant appreciate full sunshine and only will tolerate partial shade during the hottest summer months. It thrives best in the north where the summer nights are cooler. Dig your hole as deep as the pot you are transplanting from and fill the holes with compost and keep a spacing of 32" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain medium moisture until your plants establish.
When outdoor temp: 60˚F to 85˚F.
Spacing: 32"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Gas plant loves water and thrives in moist soil but be careful about overwatering. When the weather gets very cold, spread the watering schedule to avoid making the soil too soggy. Before watering, check the soil to ensure it is dry before dousing it with a small amount of water.
Temperature and Light: Gas plant prefers colder temperatures and grows strong in USDA zones 3 to 9. They do the best in northern climates where the nights are significantly cooler. In very hot temperatures, there is a risk of the volatile oils becoming active and igniting. As for light, Gas plant doesn't like even partial shade. It needs full sun to grow well. When planting in your garden, choose a sunny location where the sun shines for at least 6 hours every day.
Fertilizer: The nutrient requirement of gas plant is relatively low. An organic starting fertilization in the spring, for example in the form of compost is generally sufficient.
Pruning: Dead and diseased shoots are completely removed or regularly cut out. No further cutting is necessary. Due to the toxicity of this plant, it is useful to wear gloves as well as clothes with long sleeves.
Seed Saving:
When the seeds are ripe, they are shot out of the seed capsule as soon as you touch them. It is best to bag seed heads and wait until they drop into the bag.
Culinary:
A lemon-scented tea is made from the dried leaves. Refreshing and aromatic.
Medicinal:
Gas plant has been used in Chinese herbal medicine for at least 1,500 years. The root bark is a bitter, strong-smelling herb that lowers fevers and controls bacterial and fungal infections. The plant has an effect similar to rue (Ruta graveolens) in that it strongly stimulates the muscles of the uterus, inducing menstruation and sometimes causing abortion. By contrast, its effect on the gastrointestinal tract is antispasmodic and it acts as a mild tonic on the stomach. Both the flowering stems and the root bark are used medicinally. They are abortifacient, anthelmintic, antispasmodic, aromatic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, galactogogue, stimulant, and tonic. The plant is used both internally and externally in the treatment of skin diseases (especially scabies and eczema), German measles, arthritic pain, and jaundice. It is little used in Western herbalism nowadays, though it has been recommended for use in nervous complaints, intermittent fevers, scrofulous, and scorbutic diseases. Use with caution, in large doses it is poisonous. The root bark is harvested in the autumn and dried for later use. An infusion of the leaves is used as a tea substitute and is a good digestive. A homeopathic remedy is made from fresh leaves. It is used in the treatment of female complaints and constipation.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Geranium, Hemerocallis, Iris, Potentilla, and Sedum spectabile.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Spring Planting:
To plant Gas plant in the springtime, the seeds will need to be stratified first which can take from 1-6 months and may require several rounds of refrigeration. There are three different mediums you could use to stratify your seeds in a refrigerator which is normally determined by the size of the seeds you are stratifying: a potting mix, sand, or a napkin. Choosing the right medium is important because it is impossible to separate super tiny seeds from a potting mix or sand later on.
Stratification by Potting Soil or Sand:
1) Fill a container with moist potting mix or sand.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on top of the potting mix, or sand.
3) Sprinkle an additional 1/8" soil mix or sand over your seeds and mist with a water bottle.
4) Add a label with the plant name and date and cover your container with plastic.
4) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the potting mix dry out.
5) Remove from the refrigerator after 4-6 weeds.
Stratification by Napkin:
1) Moisten a napkin using a water bottle.
2) Sprinkle your seeds on only half of the napkin
3) Fold the side of the napkin with no seeds on it over the half of napkin with the seeds on it.
4) Insect the napkin into a zip lock bag and seal it.
5) Refrigerate your seeds and do not let the napkin dry out.
6) Remove from the refrigerator after 4-6 weeks.
Germinating Gas Plant Flower Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter stratified seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Sprinkle a little additional 1/8" soil mix over the seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 65 to 72°F.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Seedlings should emerge within two months.
6) If no seedlings sprout, cover your tray with plastic and put it back into the refrigerator for another 5-6 weeks, and the repeat process. If seedlings begin to sprout during the 2nd round of refrigeration, then remove your tray and set it in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 65 to 72°F.
Temperature: 65-72F. Ideal 70F.
Average Germ Time: 100-140 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: 1/8"
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Fall Planting:
In late fall, direct sow 2-3 of your Gas plant seeds in a deep hole full of compost 32" apart in fertile and well-drained soils that has a pH between 5.5 and 7.0.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Gas plant prefers full sun and moist fertile, well-drained soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 7.0 but prefers it on the slightly acidic to neutral side.
Gas plant appreciate full sunshine and only will tolerate partial shade during the hottest summer months. It thrives best in the north where the summer nights are cooler. Dig your hole as deep as the pot you are transplanting from and fill the holes with compost and keep a spacing of 32" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain medium moisture until your plants establish.
When outdoor temp: 60˚F to 85˚F.
Spacing: 32"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Gas plant loves water and thrives in moist soil but be careful about overwatering. When the weather gets very cold, spread the watering schedule to avoid making the soil too soggy. Before watering, check the soil to ensure it is dry before dousing it with a small amount of water.
Temperature and Light: Gas plant prefers colder temperatures and grows strong in USDA zones 3 to 9. They do the best in northern climates where the nights are significantly cooler. In very hot temperatures, there is a risk of the volatile oils becoming active and igniting. As for light, Gas plant doesn't like even partial shade. It needs full sun to grow well. When planting in your garden, choose a sunny location where the sun shines for at least 6 hours every day.
Fertilizer: The nutrient requirement of gas plant is relatively low. An organic starting fertilization in the spring, for example in the form of compost is generally sufficient.
Pruning: Dead and diseased shoots are completely removed or regularly cut out. No further cutting is necessary. Due to the toxicity of this plant, it is useful to wear gloves as well as clothes with long sleeves.
Seed Saving:
When the seeds are ripe, they are shot out of the seed capsule as soon as you touch them. It is best to bag seed heads and wait until they drop into the bag.
Culinary:
A lemon-scented tea is made from the dried leaves. Refreshing and aromatic.
Medicinal:
Gas plant has been used in Chinese herbal medicine for at least 1,500 years. The root bark is a bitter, strong-smelling herb that lowers fevers and controls bacterial and fungal infections. The plant has an effect similar to rue (Ruta graveolens) in that it strongly stimulates the muscles of the uterus, inducing menstruation and sometimes causing abortion. By contrast, its effect on the gastrointestinal tract is antispasmodic and it acts as a mild tonic on the stomach. Both the flowering stems and the root bark are used medicinally. They are abortifacient, anthelmintic, antispasmodic, aromatic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, galactogogue, stimulant, and tonic. The plant is used both internally and externally in the treatment of skin diseases (especially scabies and eczema), German measles, arthritic pain, and jaundice. It is little used in Western herbalism nowadays, though it has been recommended for use in nervous complaints, intermittent fevers, scrofulous, and scorbutic diseases. Use with caution, in large doses it is poisonous. The root bark is harvested in the autumn and dried for later use. An infusion of the leaves is used as a tea substitute and is a good digestive. A homeopathic remedy is made from fresh leaves. It is used in the treatment of female complaints and constipation.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Geranium, Hemerocallis, Iris, Potentilla, and Sedum spectabile.
Gazania
How to Grow Gazania
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, planting the seed ¼” below the surface of the soil and keeping evenly moist until germination. To start the seed indoors 4-6 weeks before planting, plant 2-3 seeds in each individual pot; keep the soil moist and at a temperature of 70 degrees F until germination, which should occur within 10-15 days.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Mature plants grow well in heat and drought, though extremely dry periods or temperatures above 110 degrees F may cause wilting. Water in times of extended drought but do not overwater, since this can cause disease. Deadheading will help prolong the blooming. Though often grown as an annual in cooler climates, this plant will often self-seed. In warmer areas, it makes a good choice for a perennial ground cover.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, the plant will produce seed heads containing small clusters of seeds with white fluff. Since sparrows and goldfinches love to eat the seed, harvest it promptly to avoid loss. Cut the mature seed heads, or shake them into a container to remove the seed material. Clean the seed as well as possible, then store it in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
African Daisy (Dimorphotheca sinuata), Upright Sedum, Dianthus, and Ice Plant.
Direct sow in early spring, planting the seed ¼” below the surface of the soil and keeping evenly moist until germination. To start the seed indoors 4-6 weeks before planting, plant 2-3 seeds in each individual pot; keep the soil moist and at a temperature of 70 degrees F until germination, which should occur within 10-15 days.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Mature plants grow well in heat and drought, though extremely dry periods or temperatures above 110 degrees F may cause wilting. Water in times of extended drought but do not overwater, since this can cause disease. Deadheading will help prolong the blooming. Though often grown as an annual in cooler climates, this plant will often self-seed. In warmer areas, it makes a good choice for a perennial ground cover.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After flowering, the plant will produce seed heads containing small clusters of seeds with white fluff. Since sparrows and goldfinches love to eat the seed, harvest it promptly to avoid loss. Cut the mature seed heads, or shake them into a container to remove the seed material. Clean the seed as well as possible, then store it in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
African Daisy (Dimorphotheca sinuata), Upright Sedum, Dianthus, and Ice Plant.
Gilia
How to Grow Gilia
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, planting just below the surface.
For spring planting, you will have to stratify your seeds by sowing them in moist sand and storing them in your refrigerator for 30 days. Then sow your seeds in a seed starting tray of peat pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost in your area. You will need to maintain lightly moist soil and a temperature of 70 degrees to achieve germination. Germination should occur within two weeks. When the weather has warmed and your seedlings are well established, transplant them outdoors.
Crop Care
Transplant your seedlings in rocky or sandy soil 6” apart. Globe Gilia requires moist soil as it develops but will become drought-tolerant in hot and dry conditions when it matures. Be careful not to overwater or this will cause disease. Globe Gilia is a self-sowing plant that will attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds to your garden.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After blooming, the globe-shaped flowers will become dry and light brown. Each tiny flower becomes a capsule that opens to reveal several brown seeds; cut the ripened heads or simply shake the entire plant over a container to remove the seeds. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
It is best used in a meadow-like setting with other annuals, herbaceous perennials, and, geophytes, including Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), Owl's Clover (Castilleja exserta), Clarkia sp., Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Blue Dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Tidy Tips (Layia platyglossa), Lupine (Lupinus sp.), Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), Wind Poppy (Papaver heterphyllum), and Penstemon sp..
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Direct sow in late fall, planting just below the surface.
For spring planting, you will have to stratify your seeds by sowing them in moist sand and storing them in your refrigerator for 30 days. Then sow your seeds in a seed starting tray of peat pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost in your area. You will need to maintain lightly moist soil and a temperature of 70 degrees to achieve germination. Germination should occur within two weeks. When the weather has warmed and your seedlings are well established, transplant them outdoors.
Crop Care
Transplant your seedlings in rocky or sandy soil 6” apart. Globe Gilia requires moist soil as it develops but will become drought-tolerant in hot and dry conditions when it matures. Be careful not to overwater or this will cause disease. Globe Gilia is a self-sowing plant that will attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds to your garden.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After blooming, the globe-shaped flowers will become dry and light brown. Each tiny flower becomes a capsule that opens to reveal several brown seeds; cut the ripened heads or simply shake the entire plant over a container to remove the seeds. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
It is best used in a meadow-like setting with other annuals, herbaceous perennials, and, geophytes, including Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), Owl's Clover (Castilleja exserta), Clarkia sp., Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Blue Dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Tidy Tips (Layia platyglossa), Lupine (Lupinus sp.), Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), Wind Poppy (Papaver heterphyllum), and Penstemon sp..
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Hibiscus
How to Grow Hibiscus
Germination:
Rose mallow is easily grown from seed. Tip cuttings are taken in early July root readily with adequate mist. They are all slow to emerge in spring and wait for the signal of warmer soil temperatures before they begin to show themselves.
Common to moist and wet areas as the name implies but is quite happy in average moist garden soils. It enjoys fertile soil as well as ample moisture during the growing season for the best flowering and growth. Otherwise, the only maintenance that these perennials generally require is to remove the dead stems at the end of the year.
Crop Care:
Hibiscus is super easy to care for. Plant them in a sunny area and keep them watered as needed. They are fast growing so they do need plenty of water. During the growing season just water and leave them unpruned. When they start blooming it’s important to deadhead them (remove the spent flower blossoms). If you do that, they will reward you with more and more of those big beautiful blooms.
They are perennials so come fall the frost will kill the top of the plants but the roots will be fine. Sometime after they have gone through a hard freeze where the temperatures drop below freezing for at least a few hours go ahead and cut them back to stubs or only three or four inches from the ground. If you want you can wait and do this early spring.
Come spring they are a little slow to get started so be patient. But once they start growing they really take off and by the end of July, or early August they start making flowers.
Seed Saving:
You can deadhead the spent flowers if you don’t like their appearance, but they fall off on their own in a day or two. In very wet conditions, rosemallow will reseed readily. If this is the case and such reseeding is unwanted, just deadhead and cut the stems down for the winter. Otherwise, you can let the stems and seed heads stay for winter interest and then cut the dead stems back in the spring to make way for the new growth. Beaked capsules mature and turn brown within 4-5 weeks from flowering. Seeds are ready to collect when they are dark brown. If necessary, separate good seeds from those infested with weevils and store them in sealed, refrigerated containers.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Hibiscus moscheutos with Asclepias incarnata, Eupatorium fistulosum, Helianthus angustifolius, Lobelia cardinalis, and Panicum virgatum.
Rose mallow is easily grown from seed. Tip cuttings are taken in early July root readily with adequate mist. They are all slow to emerge in spring and wait for the signal of warmer soil temperatures before they begin to show themselves.
Common to moist and wet areas as the name implies but is quite happy in average moist garden soils. It enjoys fertile soil as well as ample moisture during the growing season for the best flowering and growth. Otherwise, the only maintenance that these perennials generally require is to remove the dead stems at the end of the year.
Crop Care:
Hibiscus is super easy to care for. Plant them in a sunny area and keep them watered as needed. They are fast growing so they do need plenty of water. During the growing season just water and leave them unpruned. When they start blooming it’s important to deadhead them (remove the spent flower blossoms). If you do that, they will reward you with more and more of those big beautiful blooms.
They are perennials so come fall the frost will kill the top of the plants but the roots will be fine. Sometime after they have gone through a hard freeze where the temperatures drop below freezing for at least a few hours go ahead and cut them back to stubs or only three or four inches from the ground. If you want you can wait and do this early spring.
Come spring they are a little slow to get started so be patient. But once they start growing they really take off and by the end of July, or early August they start making flowers.
Seed Saving:
You can deadhead the spent flowers if you don’t like their appearance, but they fall off on their own in a day or two. In very wet conditions, rosemallow will reseed readily. If this is the case and such reseeding is unwanted, just deadhead and cut the stems down for the winter. Otherwise, you can let the stems and seed heads stay for winter interest and then cut the dead stems back in the spring to make way for the new growth. Beaked capsules mature and turn brown within 4-5 weeks from flowering. Seeds are ready to collect when they are dark brown. If necessary, separate good seeds from those infested with weevils and store them in sealed, refrigerated containers.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Hibiscus moscheutos with Asclepias incarnata, Eupatorium fistulosum, Helianthus angustifolius, Lobelia cardinalis, and Panicum virgatum.
Hollyhock
How to Grow Hollyhock
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Starting Spring Seeds Indoors:
Germinating Hollyhock Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter 2-3 seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Sprinkle a little additional soil mix over the seeds until they are covered 1/8" add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 60 - 65F.
Average Germ Time: 21-28 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press it into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Spring Planting Outdoors:
Hollyhock seeds can be directly sown in the springtime after the last frost date. Direct sow 2-3 seeds 1/8" deep, 24" apart in any moist soil that is well-drained with pH 6.0 - 8.0. They prefer to be planted in an area in full sun.
Fall Planting:
In late fall (August or September), direct sow 2-3 seeds 1/8" deep in any moist soil that is well-drained with pH 6.0 - 8.0.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Hollyhock prefers full sun and moist soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 8.0. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 24" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain a medium moisture until your hollyhocks develop its taproot.
When outdoor temp: 60˚F to 90˚F.
Spacing: 24"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Water daily for the first few weeks after planting, and regularly after that, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Once hollyhocks grow to maturity, they become relatively drought-tolerant, so you can then decrease your watering frequency to two to three times per week for the rest of the growing season
Temperature and Humidity: Hollyhocks grow in a temperature range of 60-90º F as long as conditions are ideal. If the temperature drops below 55º F, it will die back to the ground, and you will need to mulch the soil to insulate the dormant roots to protect them from getting too cold. Hollyhocks don't have any humidity requirements and actually fare worse in climates with high humidity as this makes them more susceptible to diseases such as rust. Hollyhocks need good air circulation, so enable this by planting them around 18 inches apart.
Fertilizer: Hollyhock flowers do well with 10-10-10 fertilizer, which, in short, stands for equal levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. You should only need two to three tablespoons of this fertilizer per plant per season.
Pruning: Individual hollyhock flowers can be removed when they fade and entire stalks can be cut back to the base after flowering. This will prevent seed heads from forming and reseeding. Although, if you'd like to have seeds set for next spring, leave the flowers and a few stalks until the seeds have dropped.
Seed Saving:
Harvesting Hollyhock Seeds:
At the end of the growing season (late summer or early fall), rather than picking the flowers on your hollyhocks, allow them to "go to seed" on the stalks.
When hollyhock flowers go to seed, they shrivel and turn brown. Eventually, the petals fall to the ground, leaving large, fuzzy, brown pods behind. These pods are seed pods, and they contain hollyhock seeds.
When they've dried to a medium brown on the stalk, it's time to harvest them.
To harvest hollyhock seeds, simply snap the hollyhock seed pods off the stalks with your fingers, dropping them into a brown paper bag. (If you want to sow them instead of saving them, autumn is also the ideal time for that. Simply scatter the seeds onto rich, fertile soil in a sunny spot in your garden, one that's appropriate for tall flowers like hollyhocks, and cover them lightly with soil.)
Keep the hollyhock seed pods in the paper bag until you're ready to begin the cleaning and drying process, which is the next step in saving hollyhock seeds.
Hollyhock seeds are large and flat. They often stick together in the pod and should be separated to facilitate drying.
Cleaning and Drying the Seeds:
To prepare harvested hollyhock seed for storage, crack open the seed pods, separating the seeds, and discard the pod.
Hollyhock seeds are rather large and flat. Inside the pod, they tend to stick together, and you'll probably have to separate them from each other using your fingernails. With tweezers (or your fingers—the pieces will be quite large), remove any debris or chaff.
Once you start handling the seeds, you'll realize that, despite the brown and shriveled appearance of the pods, the seeds aren't really dry. They still contain moisture and must be allowed to dry more before storage.
To remove the excess moisture, place the hollyhock seeds on paper towels, wax paper, or old window screens and allow them to air dry for about a week. Don't leave them much longer, as they'll begin to absorb the moisture instead of losing it, something you definitely don't want.
Culinary:
Young leaves: raw or cooked. A mild flavor, but the texture leaves something to be desired. They have been used as a pot herb, though they are not particularly palatable. They can also be chopped up finely and added to salads.
Inner portion of young stems: raw.
Flower petals and flower buds: raw. Added to salads. A nutritious starch is obtained from the root. A refreshing tea is made from the flower petals.
Medicinal:
The flowers are demulcent, diuretic and emollient. They are useful in the treatment of chest complaints, and a decoction is used to improve blood circulation, for the treatment of constipation, dysmenorrhea, hemorrhage, etc. The flowers are harvested when they are open and are dried for later use. The shoots are used to ease difficult labor. The root is astringent and demulcent. It is crushed and applied as a poultice to ulcers. Internally, it is used in the treatment of dysentery. The roots and the flowers are used in Tibetan medicine, where they are said to have a sweet, acrid taste and a neutral potency. They are used in the treatment of inflammations of the kidneys/womb and vaginal/seminal discharge, and the roots on their own are used to treat loss of appetite. The seed is demulcent, diuretic and febrifuge.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Pair your Hollyhocks with bellflowers, daisies, delphiniums, foxglove, marigolds, phlox, rose mallow, sunflowers, yarrow, and zinnia. Some of these plants match the requirements of hollyhocks and some prefer dry soil and should be used to surround your hollyhocks to prevent competition.
Other Uses:
A fiber obtained from the stems is used in papermaking. The fibers are about 1.9mm long. The stems are harvested in late summer, the leaves are removed and the stems are steamed until the fibers can be removed. The fibers are cooked with lye for 2 hours and then ball-milled for 3 hours or pounded with mallets. The paper is light tan in color. The flowers are an alternative ingredient of the "Quick Return" herbal compost activator. This is a dried and powdered mixture of several herbs that can be added to a compost heap to speed up bacterial activity and thus shorten the time needed to make the compost. The seed contains 12% of drying oil. The red anthocyanin constituent of the flowers is used as a litmus. A brown dye is obtained from the petals.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Starting Spring Seeds Indoors:
Germinating Hollyhock Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter 2-3 seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Sprinkle a little additional soil mix over the seeds until they are covered 1/8" add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 60 - 65F.
Average Germ Time: 21-28 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press it into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Spring Planting Outdoors:
Hollyhock seeds can be directly sown in the springtime after the last frost date. Direct sow 2-3 seeds 1/8" deep, 24" apart in any moist soil that is well-drained with pH 6.0 - 8.0. They prefer to be planted in an area in full sun.
Fall Planting:
In late fall (August or September), direct sow 2-3 seeds 1/8" deep in any moist soil that is well-drained with pH 6.0 - 8.0.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Hollyhock prefers full sun and moist soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 8.0. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 24" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain a medium moisture until your hollyhocks develop its taproot.
When outdoor temp: 60˚F to 90˚F.
Spacing: 24"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Water daily for the first few weeks after planting, and regularly after that, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Once hollyhocks grow to maturity, they become relatively drought-tolerant, so you can then decrease your watering frequency to two to three times per week for the rest of the growing season
Temperature and Humidity: Hollyhocks grow in a temperature range of 60-90º F as long as conditions are ideal. If the temperature drops below 55º F, it will die back to the ground, and you will need to mulch the soil to insulate the dormant roots to protect them from getting too cold. Hollyhocks don't have any humidity requirements and actually fare worse in climates with high humidity as this makes them more susceptible to diseases such as rust. Hollyhocks need good air circulation, so enable this by planting them around 18 inches apart.
Fertilizer: Hollyhock flowers do well with 10-10-10 fertilizer, which, in short, stands for equal levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. You should only need two to three tablespoons of this fertilizer per plant per season.
Pruning: Individual hollyhock flowers can be removed when they fade and entire stalks can be cut back to the base after flowering. This will prevent seed heads from forming and reseeding. Although, if you'd like to have seeds set for next spring, leave the flowers and a few stalks until the seeds have dropped.
Seed Saving:
Harvesting Hollyhock Seeds:
At the end of the growing season (late summer or early fall), rather than picking the flowers on your hollyhocks, allow them to "go to seed" on the stalks.
When hollyhock flowers go to seed, they shrivel and turn brown. Eventually, the petals fall to the ground, leaving large, fuzzy, brown pods behind. These pods are seed pods, and they contain hollyhock seeds.
When they've dried to a medium brown on the stalk, it's time to harvest them.
To harvest hollyhock seeds, simply snap the hollyhock seed pods off the stalks with your fingers, dropping them into a brown paper bag. (If you want to sow them instead of saving them, autumn is also the ideal time for that. Simply scatter the seeds onto rich, fertile soil in a sunny spot in your garden, one that's appropriate for tall flowers like hollyhocks, and cover them lightly with soil.)
Keep the hollyhock seed pods in the paper bag until you're ready to begin the cleaning and drying process, which is the next step in saving hollyhock seeds.
Hollyhock seeds are large and flat. They often stick together in the pod and should be separated to facilitate drying.
Cleaning and Drying the Seeds:
To prepare harvested hollyhock seed for storage, crack open the seed pods, separating the seeds, and discard the pod.
Hollyhock seeds are rather large and flat. Inside the pod, they tend to stick together, and you'll probably have to separate them from each other using your fingernails. With tweezers (or your fingers—the pieces will be quite large), remove any debris or chaff.
Once you start handling the seeds, you'll realize that, despite the brown and shriveled appearance of the pods, the seeds aren't really dry. They still contain moisture and must be allowed to dry more before storage.
To remove the excess moisture, place the hollyhock seeds on paper towels, wax paper, or old window screens and allow them to air dry for about a week. Don't leave them much longer, as they'll begin to absorb the moisture instead of losing it, something you definitely don't want.
Culinary:
Young leaves: raw or cooked. A mild flavor, but the texture leaves something to be desired. They have been used as a pot herb, though they are not particularly palatable. They can also be chopped up finely and added to salads.
Inner portion of young stems: raw.
Flower petals and flower buds: raw. Added to salads. A nutritious starch is obtained from the root. A refreshing tea is made from the flower petals.
Medicinal:
The flowers are demulcent, diuretic and emollient. They are useful in the treatment of chest complaints, and a decoction is used to improve blood circulation, for the treatment of constipation, dysmenorrhea, hemorrhage, etc. The flowers are harvested when they are open and are dried for later use. The shoots are used to ease difficult labor. The root is astringent and demulcent. It is crushed and applied as a poultice to ulcers. Internally, it is used in the treatment of dysentery. The roots and the flowers are used in Tibetan medicine, where they are said to have a sweet, acrid taste and a neutral potency. They are used in the treatment of inflammations of the kidneys/womb and vaginal/seminal discharge, and the roots on their own are used to treat loss of appetite. The seed is demulcent, diuretic and febrifuge.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Pair your Hollyhocks with bellflowers, daisies, delphiniums, foxglove, marigolds, phlox, rose mallow, sunflowers, yarrow, and zinnia. Some of these plants match the requirements of hollyhocks and some prefer dry soil and should be used to surround your hollyhocks to prevent competition.
Other Uses:
A fiber obtained from the stems is used in papermaking. The fibers are about 1.9mm long. The stems are harvested in late summer, the leaves are removed and the stems are steamed until the fibers can be removed. The fibers are cooked with lye for 2 hours and then ball-milled for 3 hours or pounded with mallets. The paper is light tan in color. The flowers are an alternative ingredient of the "Quick Return" herbal compost activator. This is a dried and powdered mixture of several herbs that can be added to a compost heap to speed up bacterial activity and thus shorten the time needed to make the compost. The seed contains 12% of drying oil. The red anthocyanin constituent of the flowers is used as a litmus. A brown dye is obtained from the petals.
Hypoestes
Germination:
Sow Hypoestes plant seeds indoors 4 - 6 weeks before the frost season has passed. Use well-draining potting soil and gently press Hypoestes seeds into the soil. Covering with plastic wrap to hold in heat and moisture is helpful. Hypoestes plants tend to get leggy, so do not hesitate to pinch them back to encourage a more compact plant.
Plants are grown as bedding annuals or in containers. Bedding plants are best grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in part shade 12-16" apart. Pinch tips to promote bushiness. Some gardeners remove flower spikes because they are somewhat inconspicuous and tend to detract from the attractive foliage. Overwinter containers and grow houseplants in bright indoor light, but not direct sun. Bedding plants can be dug and potted up in the fall.
Crop Care:
The plant will give you the best color when it is in a low light situation, but this causes the canes to lengthen and get leggy while searching for light. Indirect bright sunlight is the ideal location for this plant indoors. Outdoor plants need little supplemental feeding but indoor plants should be fed once per month. Older plants tend to get leggy, but you can control legginess by cutting the canes back to lower growth and letting the plant fill in.
Companion Planting:
Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana Xtreme 'Mix'), Sweet Potato VineSweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas 'Margarita'), and Lobelia (Lobelia erinus Riviera 'Mix').
Sow Hypoestes plant seeds indoors 4 - 6 weeks before the frost season has passed. Use well-draining potting soil and gently press Hypoestes seeds into the soil. Covering with plastic wrap to hold in heat and moisture is helpful. Hypoestes plants tend to get leggy, so do not hesitate to pinch them back to encourage a more compact plant.
Plants are grown as bedding annuals or in containers. Bedding plants are best grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in part shade 12-16" apart. Pinch tips to promote bushiness. Some gardeners remove flower spikes because they are somewhat inconspicuous and tend to detract from the attractive foliage. Overwinter containers and grow houseplants in bright indoor light, but not direct sun. Bedding plants can be dug and potted up in the fall.
Crop Care:
The plant will give you the best color when it is in a low light situation, but this causes the canes to lengthen and get leggy while searching for light. Indirect bright sunlight is the ideal location for this plant indoors. Outdoor plants need little supplemental feeding but indoor plants should be fed once per month. Older plants tend to get leggy, but you can control legginess by cutting the canes back to lower growth and letting the plant fill in.
Companion Planting:
Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana Xtreme 'Mix'), Sweet Potato VineSweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas 'Margarita'), and Lobelia (Lobelia erinus Riviera 'Mix').
Ice Plant
How to Grow Ice Plant
Germination:
Direct sow seeds in late fall, pressing them lightly into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 30-60 days before planting; keep the soil moist until germination, which usually takes place within 14-21 days. This seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in the spring.
Crop Care:
Transplant the seedlings outdoors after the last chance of frost. Water seedlings until they become established, but do not overwater. Mature plants tolerate drought well and make an excellent choice for dry slopes, rock gardens, or other dry and sunny locations. These plants may reseed themselves in favorable growing conditions.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Direct sow seeds in late fall, pressing them lightly into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 30-60 days before planting; keep the soil moist until germination, which usually takes place within 14-21 days. This seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in the spring.
Crop Care:
Transplant the seedlings outdoors after the last chance of frost. Water seedlings until they become established, but do not overwater. Mature plants tolerate drought well and make an excellent choice for dry slopes, rock gardens, or other dry and sunny locations. These plants may reseed themselves in favorable growing conditions.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Iris
How to Grow Iris
Germination:
To help soften the hard seed coat, soak the seeds overnight in warm water before planting. To germinate, these seeds need several months of cold followed by warmth. To accomplish this naturally, direct sow the seeds in the fall; they will begin to germinate in the late spring and early summer. Alternatively, the seed can be stored in moist sand in the refrigerator for 60-90 days and then planted 1/2" deep in peat pots. For best results, use slightly acidic soil and keep the soil moist but not wet until germination. These seeds germinate rather slowly, often taking several months to sprout. Keep in mind that germination will continue through the first several years, as the seeds gradually come out of dormancy. The seedlings can be planted outdoors in late spring or early summer or when there is no chance of frost, or when they have reached a height of 4-6".
Crop Care:
Seedlings will need frequent watering until they become established, though mature plants are rather drought-tolerant and do not require moist soil. These native plants flourish with little attention and eventually form natural colonies that last for decades. When fully grown, the plants can easily be divided in late fall. Blooming usually begins in the second year after planting.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed outdoors.
Seed Saving:
Iris seeds are easily collected from the large capsules. These capsules turn from green to brown and open at the top when ripe. Care must be taken when handling seeds because they split very rapidly; two days after ripening the seed has spilled out. Collect capsules carefully to avoid spilling seeds; each capsule has from 20 to 80 seeds. Seeds should be stored in paper envelopes at room temperature until they are planted. The seeds of all species will keep up to 10 years at room temperature.
Medicinal:
A poultice of the raw rhizome is especially effective against staph sores. Externally iris rhizomes are successfully used on infected wounds, ulcers, fistulas and to take away freckles. Only the dried iris root or rhizome should be used internally. Iris is active as a cathartic, has a stimulating effect on the production of both pancreatic enzymes and bile, is a strong diuretic, and will stimulate both saliva and sweat. This is a useful medicinal plant but in general, should be used with care and preferably in combinations where less energetic plants form the bulk of a medicinal formula.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Peonies are traditional companions for irises. If you plant a garden with irises, peonies, and roses it will look wonderful. One more plant is forsythia, forsythia not only helps the irises grow but also provides a beautiful contrast of color. Forsythia flowers herald the arrival of spring and their yellow-colored blooms are a perfect match for a reticulated iris that flowers in the spring as well.
Vinca minor plants when grown around the base of an iris plant, they crawl and grow around the iris, this creates a beautiful focal point in the garden. Pairs of purple coneflowers also go along well with long-stemmed bearded irises.
Problems: Leaf spot, root rot, bacterial soft rot, crown rot, and mosaic viruses may appear. Watch for slugs, snails, whiteflies, aphids, and thrips. Iris borers can cause significant problems in areas where they are found.
Other Uses:
Iris makes some of the finest cordages; the fibers are particularly strong and flexible. Iris cordage was used for fishing nets, string, rope, snares, hairnets, and regalia. These fibers are very fine and silky, but surprisingly strong. The threads and cords of this fiber were used to make fishing nets, camping bags, and snares for catching deer, birds, and other game. Despite the tremendous labor of preparing this material, the iris fiber was one of the most generally employed in northwestern California.
Rope was made from fibers, which occur, on the outer margins of iris leaves. Huge bunches of leaves were harvested in the fall and stored until needed. A single silky fiber was taken from each margin of the leaf. None of the other fibers were used. The men always knotted the fishing nets. A deer rope is nearly 20 feet long with a lasso at one end and about half an inch in diameter. This loop was set over a deer trail to catch the head or antlers. Within the set loop over the trail was spread a delicate network of the same material to draw in the loop. One Indian stated that "it takes nearly six weeks to make a rope twelve feet long."
To help soften the hard seed coat, soak the seeds overnight in warm water before planting. To germinate, these seeds need several months of cold followed by warmth. To accomplish this naturally, direct sow the seeds in the fall; they will begin to germinate in the late spring and early summer. Alternatively, the seed can be stored in moist sand in the refrigerator for 60-90 days and then planted 1/2" deep in peat pots. For best results, use slightly acidic soil and keep the soil moist but not wet until germination. These seeds germinate rather slowly, often taking several months to sprout. Keep in mind that germination will continue through the first several years, as the seeds gradually come out of dormancy. The seedlings can be planted outdoors in late spring or early summer or when there is no chance of frost, or when they have reached a height of 4-6".
Crop Care:
Seedlings will need frequent watering until they become established, though mature plants are rather drought-tolerant and do not require moist soil. These native plants flourish with little attention and eventually form natural colonies that last for decades. When fully grown, the plants can easily be divided in late fall. Blooming usually begins in the second year after planting.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed outdoors.
Seed Saving:
Iris seeds are easily collected from the large capsules. These capsules turn from green to brown and open at the top when ripe. Care must be taken when handling seeds because they split very rapidly; two days after ripening the seed has spilled out. Collect capsules carefully to avoid spilling seeds; each capsule has from 20 to 80 seeds. Seeds should be stored in paper envelopes at room temperature until they are planted. The seeds of all species will keep up to 10 years at room temperature.
Medicinal:
A poultice of the raw rhizome is especially effective against staph sores. Externally iris rhizomes are successfully used on infected wounds, ulcers, fistulas and to take away freckles. Only the dried iris root or rhizome should be used internally. Iris is active as a cathartic, has a stimulating effect on the production of both pancreatic enzymes and bile, is a strong diuretic, and will stimulate both saliva and sweat. This is a useful medicinal plant but in general, should be used with care and preferably in combinations where less energetic plants form the bulk of a medicinal formula.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Peonies are traditional companions for irises. If you plant a garden with irises, peonies, and roses it will look wonderful. One more plant is forsythia, forsythia not only helps the irises grow but also provides a beautiful contrast of color. Forsythia flowers herald the arrival of spring and their yellow-colored blooms are a perfect match for a reticulated iris that flowers in the spring as well.
Vinca minor plants when grown around the base of an iris plant, they crawl and grow around the iris, this creates a beautiful focal point in the garden. Pairs of purple coneflowers also go along well with long-stemmed bearded irises.
Problems: Leaf spot, root rot, bacterial soft rot, crown rot, and mosaic viruses may appear. Watch for slugs, snails, whiteflies, aphids, and thrips. Iris borers can cause significant problems in areas where they are found.
Other Uses:
Iris makes some of the finest cordages; the fibers are particularly strong and flexible. Iris cordage was used for fishing nets, string, rope, snares, hairnets, and regalia. These fibers are very fine and silky, but surprisingly strong. The threads and cords of this fiber were used to make fishing nets, camping bags, and snares for catching deer, birds, and other game. Despite the tremendous labor of preparing this material, the iris fiber was one of the most generally employed in northwestern California.
Rope was made from fibers, which occur, on the outer margins of iris leaves. Huge bunches of leaves were harvested in the fall and stored until needed. A single silky fiber was taken from each margin of the leaf. None of the other fibers were used. The men always knotted the fishing nets. A deer rope is nearly 20 feet long with a lasso at one end and about half an inch in diameter. This loop was set over a deer trail to catch the head or antlers. Within the set loop over the trail was spread a delicate network of the same material to draw in the loop. One Indian stated that "it takes nearly six weeks to make a rope twelve feet long."
Irish Moss
How to Grow Irish Moss
Germination:
Irish Moss seeds are very tiny which makes sowing a certain amount of them per planting hole outdoors a tough task. Making the task even more difficult, these seeds are loved by birds that will eat your seeds, and whatever seed that remain will be blown away by the wind! For these reasons, it is best to start your Irish Moss seeds indoors.
Germinating Irish Moss Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter 3-5 seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit .
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 64 - 72°F.
Average Germ Time: 14-21 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: On soil surface. Do not cover the seed.
Moisture: Keep soil slightly moist, but not wet until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have filled your seed starting tray pot, pot them up into a larger container that is shallow and up to 1' wide and fill it with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Irish Moss prefers moist humus-rich soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. In colder areas, Irish Moss appreciates full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 1 foot between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain a medium moisture.
When outdoor temp: 55˚F to 60˚F.
Spacing: 6-9"
Support: No
Crop Care:
Sun and Temperature:
Irish moss prefers full sun to partial shade and a temperature around 60 degrees. It gets fussy around 80 degrees so if you live in an area with warm summers, your Iris Moss will need some afternoon shade. If you live in zones 4-8, your Irish Moss will do fine outdoors in the ground. If you live in a grow zone above 8, you should grow Irish Moss in a container and bring it indoors when the sunlight or heat is too intense. If you live in a grow zone lower than 4, you should also grow your Irish Moss in a container and bring your containers indoors when the temperature is 30 degrees.
Water and Humidity:
Always water your Irish moss in the morning, before the sun has warmed the ground. Keep the ground around your plant sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged. Especially when it has just been transplanted, it will need a consistent amount of water to root effectively. But light watering with a soaker hose is best for this sensitive ground cover. Insufficient or excessive water causes brown patches.
Fertilizing:
Irish moss likes a full-spectrum fertilizer with a 5-5-5 NPK applied to the ground cover once in the spring, annually. High nitrogen levels can lead to your compact, low-lying groundcover to form a mound.
Pruning:
If there are yellowing or brown leaves, remove them as needed.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Irish Moss with Mazus, Scottish Moss, and Creeping Thyme.
Irish Moss seeds are very tiny which makes sowing a certain amount of them per planting hole outdoors a tough task. Making the task even more difficult, these seeds are loved by birds that will eat your seeds, and whatever seed that remain will be blown away by the wind! For these reasons, it is best to start your Irish Moss seeds indoors.
Germinating Irish Moss Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter 3-5 seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit .
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 64 - 72°F.
Average Germ Time: 14-21 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: On soil surface. Do not cover the seed.
Moisture: Keep soil slightly moist, but not wet until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have filled your seed starting tray pot, pot them up into a larger container that is shallow and up to 1' wide and fill it with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Irish Moss prefers moist humus-rich soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. In colder areas, Irish Moss appreciates full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 1 foot between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain a medium moisture.
When outdoor temp: 55˚F to 60˚F.
Spacing: 6-9"
Support: No
Crop Care:
Sun and Temperature:
Irish moss prefers full sun to partial shade and a temperature around 60 degrees. It gets fussy around 80 degrees so if you live in an area with warm summers, your Iris Moss will need some afternoon shade. If you live in zones 4-8, your Irish Moss will do fine outdoors in the ground. If you live in a grow zone above 8, you should grow Irish Moss in a container and bring it indoors when the sunlight or heat is too intense. If you live in a grow zone lower than 4, you should also grow your Irish Moss in a container and bring your containers indoors when the temperature is 30 degrees.
Water and Humidity:
Always water your Irish moss in the morning, before the sun has warmed the ground. Keep the ground around your plant sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged. Especially when it has just been transplanted, it will need a consistent amount of water to root effectively. But light watering with a soaker hose is best for this sensitive ground cover. Insufficient or excessive water causes brown patches.
Fertilizing:
Irish moss likes a full-spectrum fertilizer with a 5-5-5 NPK applied to the ground cover once in the spring, annually. High nitrogen levels can lead to your compact, low-lying groundcover to form a mound.
Pruning:
If there are yellowing or brown leaves, remove them as needed.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Irish Moss with Mazus, Scottish Moss, and Creeping Thyme.
Joe Pye Weed
How to Grow Joe Pye Weed
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, pressing the seeds into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before direct sowing. To start indoors, scatter the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; compress the soil slightly and keep it lightly moist until germination, which is naturally slow but should take place within 2-3 months. Keep the soil consistently moist, and transplant seedlings as soon as they reach a height of several inches.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings watered since they need even moisture in their first year of development; they may not bloom until their second year of growth. Mature plants can tolerate drought, though they reach their full potential in moist, well-drained soil. This plant may spread by rhizomes and self-seeding and can be divided after several years of growth. Cut the plant down to the ground after the first frost. This plant attracts butterflies and bees.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
Late in the season, these fuzzy flowers will begin to turn dull brown. Snip off entire heads and spread them out in a protected location to prevent the light seed from blowing away. When the heads have completely dried, shake them to remove the seed. The fluff attached to the seeds does not affect germination. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
In natural medicine, you can use Joe Pye Weed in several different ways. The roots are considered especially beneficial and are gathered to be dried, ground, and brewed as an herbal tea tonic.
The plant holds a long history of use in Native American and backwoods medicine. You can use the roots, leaves, and flowers of all varieties to create teas that are said to address problems as diverse as:
The plant contains immune-boosting polysaccharides, and stimulating the immune system may help the body to overcome fevers and illnesses on its own.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Eupatorium maculatum with Aster oblongifolius ‘Raydon’s Favorite’, Coreopsis tripteris, Echinacea purpurea, Lobelia siphilitica, Monarda fistulosa, Rudbeckia fulgida var. fulgida, Silphium perfoliatum, Solidago odora or Sorghastrum nutans.
Direct sow in late fall, pressing the seeds into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 60 days before direct sowing. To start indoors, scatter the seed on the surface of the soil in a flat; compress the soil slightly and keep it lightly moist until germination, which is naturally slow but should take place within 2-3 months. Keep the soil consistently moist, and transplant seedlings as soon as they reach a height of several inches.
Crop Care:
Keep seedlings watered since they need even moisture in their first year of development; they may not bloom until their second year of growth. Mature plants can tolerate drought, though they reach their full potential in moist, well-drained soil. This plant may spread by rhizomes and self-seeding and can be divided after several years of growth. Cut the plant down to the ground after the first frost. This plant attracts butterflies and bees.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
Late in the season, these fuzzy flowers will begin to turn dull brown. Snip off entire heads and spread them out in a protected location to prevent the light seed from blowing away. When the heads have completely dried, shake them to remove the seed. The fluff attached to the seeds does not affect germination. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
In natural medicine, you can use Joe Pye Weed in several different ways. The roots are considered especially beneficial and are gathered to be dried, ground, and brewed as an herbal tea tonic.
The plant holds a long history of use in Native American and backwoods medicine. You can use the roots, leaves, and flowers of all varieties to create teas that are said to address problems as diverse as:
- Respiratory Problems
- Bladder Stones
- Kidney Stones
- Rheumatism
- Impotence
- Diarrhea
- Fever
- Gout
The plant contains immune-boosting polysaccharides, and stimulating the immune system may help the body to overcome fevers and illnesses on its own.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing Eupatorium maculatum with Aster oblongifolius ‘Raydon’s Favorite’, Coreopsis tripteris, Echinacea purpurea, Lobelia siphilitica, Monarda fistulosa, Rudbeckia fulgida var. fulgida, Silphium perfoliatum, Solidago odora or Sorghastrum nutans.
Lacy Phacelia
How to Grow Lacy Phacelia
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring as early as the soil can be worked. Sow seeds 1/4" deep in sandy soil that has a PH of 6.0 - 7.5. Space your seeds 12" apart and keep the soil lightly moist until germination occurs. If starting the seed indoors, keep in mind that the best temperature for germination is 55-60 degrees F.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established; control weeds. Mature plants tolerate heat and drought well and flourish in rocky or sandy soil. They also grow well in average garden soil. Deadhead spent blossoms unless seeds are wanted. This plant often self-sows and is highly attractive to bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the plant begins to turn brown, the seeds will begin to ripen on the stem. Gather the seeds as soon as they have turned brown; watch them carefully to prevent loss, since the seeds can easily drop. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Use for spaces between chaparral shrubs along with other annuals or perennial herbs such as Poppy (Eschscholzia or Papaver sp.), Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), Cream Cups (Platystemon californicus), and with geophytes such as Onion (Allium sp.), Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), and Blue Dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum). Also useful around various cacti and succulents such as Dudleya sp.
Direct sow in early spring as early as the soil can be worked. Sow seeds 1/4" deep in sandy soil that has a PH of 6.0 - 7.5. Space your seeds 12" apart and keep the soil lightly moist until germination occurs. If starting the seed indoors, keep in mind that the best temperature for germination is 55-60 degrees F.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established; control weeds. Mature plants tolerate heat and drought well and flourish in rocky or sandy soil. They also grow well in average garden soil. Deadhead spent blossoms unless seeds are wanted. This plant often self-sows and is highly attractive to bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the plant begins to turn brown, the seeds will begin to ripen on the stem. Gather the seeds as soon as they have turned brown; watch them carefully to prevent loss, since the seeds can easily drop. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Use for spaces between chaparral shrubs along with other annuals or perennial herbs such as Poppy (Eschscholzia or Papaver sp.), Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophila menziesii), Cream Cups (Platystemon californicus), and with geophytes such as Onion (Allium sp.), Mariposa Lily (Calochortus sp.), and Blue Dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum). Also useful around various cacti and succulents such as Dudleya sp.
Lamb's Ear
How to Grow Lamb's Ear
Germination:
Germinate your Lamb's Ear seeds 8-10 weeks before the last frost. Sow your seeds onto the soil surface and press them in gently without covering them because they need light to germinate. Keep the flower seeds continuously moist until germination. Use starter trays and quality starter soil. Germination happens at 70°F and occurs between 21-35 days.
Crop Care:
Transplant your Lamb's Ear seedlings outdoors in spring after the chance of frost has passed. At the time of transplanting, pinch back your plant to encourage compact growth. Space Lamb's Ear plants 16 inches apart in a sunny location in cooler locations and part shade locations in high heat areas.
Harvesting:
The flowering stalks of this plant can be dried for autumn arrangements. Simply cut it off close to the base of the plant when the head is in full bloom and hang it upside down to dry. Leaves may also be dried and used (air dry). Moisture in the air can cause the heads to droop sometimes, so best used lying horizontally or plan the shape of the arrangement accordingly.
Seed Saving:
To collect seeds from Lamb's Ear, simply clip the flower spikes at their base when they become brownish and dry and place them in a container. Now all you have to do is simply shake the spikes in the container and just watch the seeds fall out. Another more thorough approach is to pinch the spikes from top to bottom to make sure all the seeds have been removed.
Culinary:
The leaves may be harvested just before the flowers appear, dried, then steeped in boiling water to make a refreshing tea. They may also be eaten raw or steamed as greens.
Medicinal:
The leaves have antibacterial, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory properties as well as aiding in blood clotting. For this reason, they were once widely used for wound dressings on battlefields.
A tea made from the young leaves is used to treat fevers, diarrhea, sore mouth and throat, internal bleeding, and weaknesses of the liver and heart. The same tea can be used topically as an eyewash to treat pinkeye and sties.
The juice from crushed leaves can be placed directly on the skin to treat bee stings and insect bites helping to reduce swelling. It can also be used to treat hemorrhoids or for postpartum recovery.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Lambs Ear is a host plant for the Mealybug Destroyer which also preys on thrips. Thrips are a common pest problem for rose growers and having a natural predator close by would be beneficial.
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash, and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow, and other light-colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Germinate your Lamb's Ear seeds 8-10 weeks before the last frost. Sow your seeds onto the soil surface and press them in gently without covering them because they need light to germinate. Keep the flower seeds continuously moist until germination. Use starter trays and quality starter soil. Germination happens at 70°F and occurs between 21-35 days.
Crop Care:
Transplant your Lamb's Ear seedlings outdoors in spring after the chance of frost has passed. At the time of transplanting, pinch back your plant to encourage compact growth. Space Lamb's Ear plants 16 inches apart in a sunny location in cooler locations and part shade locations in high heat areas.
Harvesting:
The flowering stalks of this plant can be dried for autumn arrangements. Simply cut it off close to the base of the plant when the head is in full bloom and hang it upside down to dry. Leaves may also be dried and used (air dry). Moisture in the air can cause the heads to droop sometimes, so best used lying horizontally or plan the shape of the arrangement accordingly.
Seed Saving:
To collect seeds from Lamb's Ear, simply clip the flower spikes at their base when they become brownish and dry and place them in a container. Now all you have to do is simply shake the spikes in the container and just watch the seeds fall out. Another more thorough approach is to pinch the spikes from top to bottom to make sure all the seeds have been removed.
Culinary:
The leaves may be harvested just before the flowers appear, dried, then steeped in boiling water to make a refreshing tea. They may also be eaten raw or steamed as greens.
Medicinal:
The leaves have antibacterial, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory properties as well as aiding in blood clotting. For this reason, they were once widely used for wound dressings on battlefields.
A tea made from the young leaves is used to treat fevers, diarrhea, sore mouth and throat, internal bleeding, and weaknesses of the liver and heart. The same tea can be used topically as an eyewash to treat pinkeye and sties.
The juice from crushed leaves can be placed directly on the skin to treat bee stings and insect bites helping to reduce swelling. It can also be used to treat hemorrhoids or for postpartum recovery.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Lambs Ear is a host plant for the Mealybug Destroyer which also preys on thrips. Thrips are a common pest problem for rose growers and having a natural predator close by would be beneficial.
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash, and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow, and other light-colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Larkspur
How to Grow Larkspur
Germination:
Direct sow on the soil surface in deeply worked, rich soil. In warm regions, the seed can be planted in fall for earlier bloom, while early spring planting is a better time for areas with cold winters. To start the seed indoors, sow ?” deep in a flat kept evenly moist and at a temperature of 60 degrees F. This seed germinates rather slowly but should sprout within 20-30 days. Transplant the seedlings when there is no chance of frost. This plant tolerates sandy or clay soils.
Crop Care:
Water the plants regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist. Avoid overwatering, since excess moisture may cause root rot. The plants should bloom in their first season if started early; otherwise, they will begin blooming in the following summer. After the first crop of blossoms fade the plant may be pruned for new growth and a possible second blooming. These plants will self-seed in good growing conditions. Cut the plant several inches above ground level after the first hard frost. Larkspur attracts hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened; these flowers usually have a vase life of 7-10 days. Delphiniums also make excellent dried flowers. For this purpose, choose flowers that have fully opened and bundle them, hanging them upside down in a dark, warm place until dry. Handle these plants with care, since the seeds and leaves contain poison.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, this plant will produce papery light brown seed pods that open at the top when ripe. The mature seed will be a dark brown color. Remove entire stalks of ripe seed pods and spread them out to dry. Alternatively, the plants can be shaken over a container to remove the seed from the open pods. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Depending on the variety, delphinium plants can grow 2- to 6 feet tall and 1- to 2 feet wide. Oftentimes, tall delphiniums will need staking or some kind of support, as they can get beaten down by heavy rains or wind. They can sometimes become so laden with blooms that even the slightest breeze or little pollinator landing on them can seem to make them topple over. Using other tall border plants as delphinium plant companions can help shelter them from winds and rains while offering additional support too. These may include Sunflower, Hollyhock, Tall grasses, Joe pye weed, Filipendula, and Goat’s beard.
If using stakes or plant rings for support, planting medium-height perennials as delphinium companion plants can help hide the unsightly stakes and supports. Any of the following will work well for this: Echinacea, Phlox, Foxglove, Rudbeckia, and Lilies.
When companion planting with delphinium, you have many options, and what to plant next to delphiniums is completely up to you. Using certain plants like chamomile, chervil or legumes may have some nutrient benefits as companions for delphinium, but no plants seem to cause it harm or irregular growth when planted next to nearby. Delphiniums are deer resistant, and though Japanese beetles are attracted to the plants, they reportedly die from eating toxins from within them. Delphinium plant companions may benefit from this pest resistance.
Delphiniums early summer soft pink, white, and purple blooms make them beautiful companion plants for numerous perennials. Plant them in cottage-style flower beds with any of the previously mentioned plants above in addition to Peony, Chrysanthemum, Aster, Iris, Daylily, Allium, Roses, and Blazing star.
Direct sow on the soil surface in deeply worked, rich soil. In warm regions, the seed can be planted in fall for earlier bloom, while early spring planting is a better time for areas with cold winters. To start the seed indoors, sow ?” deep in a flat kept evenly moist and at a temperature of 60 degrees F. This seed germinates rather slowly but should sprout within 20-30 days. Transplant the seedlings when there is no chance of frost. This plant tolerates sandy or clay soils.
Crop Care:
Water the plants regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist. Avoid overwatering, since excess moisture may cause root rot. The plants should bloom in their first season if started early; otherwise, they will begin blooming in the following summer. After the first crop of blossoms fade the plant may be pruned for new growth and a possible second blooming. These plants will self-seed in good growing conditions. Cut the plant several inches above ground level after the first hard frost. Larkspur attracts hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened; these flowers usually have a vase life of 7-10 days. Delphiniums also make excellent dried flowers. For this purpose, choose flowers that have fully opened and bundle them, hanging them upside down in a dark, warm place until dry. Handle these plants with care, since the seeds and leaves contain poison.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, this plant will produce papery light brown seed pods that open at the top when ripe. The mature seed will be a dark brown color. Remove entire stalks of ripe seed pods and spread them out to dry. Alternatively, the plants can be shaken over a container to remove the seed from the open pods. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Depending on the variety, delphinium plants can grow 2- to 6 feet tall and 1- to 2 feet wide. Oftentimes, tall delphiniums will need staking or some kind of support, as they can get beaten down by heavy rains or wind. They can sometimes become so laden with blooms that even the slightest breeze or little pollinator landing on them can seem to make them topple over. Using other tall border plants as delphinium plant companions can help shelter them from winds and rains while offering additional support too. These may include Sunflower, Hollyhock, Tall grasses, Joe pye weed, Filipendula, and Goat’s beard.
If using stakes or plant rings for support, planting medium-height perennials as delphinium companion plants can help hide the unsightly stakes and supports. Any of the following will work well for this: Echinacea, Phlox, Foxglove, Rudbeckia, and Lilies.
When companion planting with delphinium, you have many options, and what to plant next to delphiniums is completely up to you. Using certain plants like chamomile, chervil or legumes may have some nutrient benefits as companions for delphinium, but no plants seem to cause it harm or irregular growth when planted next to nearby. Delphiniums are deer resistant, and though Japanese beetles are attracted to the plants, they reportedly die from eating toxins from within them. Delphinium plant companions may benefit from this pest resistance.
Delphiniums early summer soft pink, white, and purple blooms make them beautiful companion plants for numerous perennials. Plant them in cottage-style flower beds with any of the previously mentioned plants above in addition to Peony, Chrysanthemum, Aster, Iris, Daylily, Allium, Roses, and Blazing star.
Lupine
How to Grow Lupine
Germination:
To soften the hard coating on these seeds, rub them lightly with sandpaper or soak them in 180 degrees F water overnight before sowing. Sow them in early spring, planting 1/2” deep. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination.
Crop Care:
These seedlings grow very slowly and are rather fragile. Water them occasionally and protect them from freezing temperatures. Though mature plants tolerate drought conditions and thrive in many types of soil, they tend to prefer moist clay. This plant can be poisonous to livestock if present in excessive amounts. These plants resent having their roots disturbed.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
As the seed pods develop, watch them carefully. As soon as they ripen fully they will split and drop their seed. When the pods begin to turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry. Remove the seed from the pods and store it in a cool, dry place. Keep in mind that these seeds are highly poisonous.
Companion Planting:
Lupines can be grown as soil-nourishing cover crops, and they’re helpful companion plants when intercropped with cucumbers, squash, broccoli, and spinach.
To soften the hard coating on these seeds, rub them lightly with sandpaper or soak them in 180 degrees F water overnight before sowing. Sow them in early spring, planting 1/2” deep. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination.
Crop Care:
These seedlings grow very slowly and are rather fragile. Water them occasionally and protect them from freezing temperatures. Though mature plants tolerate drought conditions and thrive in many types of soil, they tend to prefer moist clay. This plant can be poisonous to livestock if present in excessive amounts. These plants resent having their roots disturbed.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
As the seed pods develop, watch them carefully. As soon as they ripen fully they will split and drop their seed. When the pods begin to turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry. Remove the seed from the pods and store it in a cool, dry place. Keep in mind that these seeds are highly poisonous.
Companion Planting:
Lupines can be grown as soil-nourishing cover crops, and they’re helpful companion plants when intercropped with cucumbers, squash, broccoli, and spinach.
Marigold
How to Grow Marigold
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.0" to 0.25". The seed can be sown on the surface but is generally covered with ¼” of soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 75°F to 80°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 8 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
2-4 weeks before the last frost date: The seed doesn't germinate well in cold soil, so it is often started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before planting out. It transplants well so it can be started in flats. Sow seeds 1/4" deep in the soil and keep them moist.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after the last frost date: Plant out 2 to 4 weeks after the last frost, into fairly warm soil.
Warm, Hot: This tropical plant grows naturally in zones 9 to 11 but can be grown in colder climates as an annual.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 65°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant out until the soil is at least 60˚ F, preferably higher.
Spacing: 8"-12", 2 plants per sq ft. Sow seeds 2 - 3" apart. Thin to a final spacing of 8 - 12" apart.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: This tropical plant grows naturally in zones 9 to 11, but can be grown in colder climates as an annual.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 65°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant out until soil is at least 60˚ F, preferably higher.
Seed Depth: 0.0"-0.25". The seed can be sown on the surface but is generally covered with ¼” of soil.
Spacing: 8.0"-12.0", 2 plants per sq ft. Sow seeds 2 - 3" apart. Thin to a final spacing of 8 - 12" apart.
Summer Crop:
2-12 weeks after the last frost date: The seed can be direct sown any time after the soil has warmed up to at least 60˚ F. Plant 1/4" deep and keep the soil moist during germination.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Very easily grown from seed, Marigolds require little attention and are a favorite plant for children to grow.
Water Needs: Low. Marigolds are somewhat drought tolerant but flower best if the soil is slightly moist (not wet though).
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Marigolds aren't very hungry plants and growing them in rich soil can actually result in lush growth at the expense of flowers.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: When and How. Flower, 1-56 days after maturity
When: Cut in the early morning, just as the blossoms begin to open.
How: Using a sharp blade, cut the stem at the desired length (ideally at the base). Immediately put cut marigolds in a container of moderately warm water. After 2 hours, strip the bottom leaves that are submerged in the water from the plant. Arrange flowers in a vase with fresh water. They should last a week.
Deadheading flowers will extend the blossoming period all the way to the first frost.
Seed Saving:
Marigolds produce seeds freely (if the faded flowers are left on the plants), though their offspring will be a mix of different characteristics unless you hand pollinate. The heavy flowering hybrid Marigolds, Triploids are sterile and so don't produce viable seed.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Culinary:
Edible parts of French Marigold: The flowers are used in refreshing drinks. The leaves are used as a food flavoring. No further details are given. The essential oil is used as a food flavoring, though it is inferior to the oil obtained from T. minuta. The dried flowers are an adulterant of saffron(Crocus sativus), used for coloring foods yellow.
Taste:
Some cultivars have pleasant-tasting flowers that are a nice addition to salads. Taste the flowers to see if they are worth eating.
Culinary Use:
The flowers of some types of Marigolds are edible. Basically, if it tastes good, you can use it.
Medicinal:
The whole herb is aromatic, digestive, diuretic, and sedative. It is used internally in the treatment of indigestion, colic, severe constipation, coughs, and dysentery. Externally, it is used to treat sore eyes and rheumatism. The leaves are harvested as required for immediate use during the growing season, whilst the flowering plant can be dried and stored for later use.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Marigolds have acquired a large body of companion gardening lore surrounding their reputed insect-repelling qualities. Companion gardeners suggest planting them with cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, and roses, insisting that the pungently scented plants control aphids, cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, Mexican bean beetles, and nematodes. Only a few of the claims are backed up by scientific research, and sometimes the results are contradictory. In addition, marigolds appear to have an allelopathic effect on some neighbors. In one study, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) repelled Mexican bean beetles, but the growth of the beans was stunted, apparently by the presence of the marigolds. One study on cabbageworm counts found that marigolds had no effect; in another, the number of worms was reduced but so was the size of the heads (apparently because of an allelopathic substance from the marigolds). Nematode studies are more definitive, showing a decrease in population in at least five species of nematodes. Early studies focused on the resistance of marigolds to nematodes and found that the plants contain a potent nematocide that controlled meadow and root know nematodes on infested land. Later studies showed that potato root nematodes were unaffected or only slightly reduced by the toxin. Spectacular nematode control resulted when marigolds were interplanted with tomatoes, and similar results were shown with tobacco. Gardeners in India row marigolds between beds of tomato family vegetables such as potatoes, chili peppers, and eggplants, changing the layout year by year so that the whole garden area receives a dose of marigold nematocide.
Companions: Due to the possible allelopathic effects, it’s probably best to plant marigolds and vegetables in separate beds. Grow the marigolds as a cover crop and turn them into the soil at the end of the season. The brightly colored flowers are always welcome in ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Marigolds appear to be allelopathic to beans and vegetables of the cabbage family.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.0" to 0.25". The seed can be sown on the surface but is generally covered with ¼” of soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 75°F to 80°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 8 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
2-4 weeks before the last frost date: The seed doesn't germinate well in cold soil, so it is often started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before planting out. It transplants well so it can be started in flats. Sow seeds 1/4" deep in the soil and keep them moist.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after the last frost date: Plant out 2 to 4 weeks after the last frost, into fairly warm soil.
Warm, Hot: This tropical plant grows naturally in zones 9 to 11 but can be grown in colder climates as an annual.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 65°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant out until the soil is at least 60˚ F, preferably higher.
Spacing: 8"-12", 2 plants per sq ft. Sow seeds 2 - 3" apart. Thin to a final spacing of 8 - 12" apart.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: This tropical plant grows naturally in zones 9 to 11, but can be grown in colder climates as an annual.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 65°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant out until soil is at least 60˚ F, preferably higher.
Seed Depth: 0.0"-0.25". The seed can be sown on the surface but is generally covered with ¼” of soil.
Spacing: 8.0"-12.0", 2 plants per sq ft. Sow seeds 2 - 3" apart. Thin to a final spacing of 8 - 12" apart.
Summer Crop:
2-12 weeks after the last frost date: The seed can be direct sown any time after the soil has warmed up to at least 60˚ F. Plant 1/4" deep and keep the soil moist during germination.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Very easily grown from seed, Marigolds require little attention and are a favorite plant for children to grow.
Water Needs: Low. Marigolds are somewhat drought tolerant but flower best if the soil is slightly moist (not wet though).
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Marigolds aren't very hungry plants and growing them in rich soil can actually result in lush growth at the expense of flowers.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: When and How. Flower, 1-56 days after maturity
When: Cut in the early morning, just as the blossoms begin to open.
How: Using a sharp blade, cut the stem at the desired length (ideally at the base). Immediately put cut marigolds in a container of moderately warm water. After 2 hours, strip the bottom leaves that are submerged in the water from the plant. Arrange flowers in a vase with fresh water. They should last a week.
Deadheading flowers will extend the blossoming period all the way to the first frost.
Seed Saving:
Marigolds produce seeds freely (if the faded flowers are left on the plants), though their offspring will be a mix of different characteristics unless you hand pollinate. The heavy flowering hybrid Marigolds, Triploids are sterile and so don't produce viable seed.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Culinary:
Edible parts of French Marigold: The flowers are used in refreshing drinks. The leaves are used as a food flavoring. No further details are given. The essential oil is used as a food flavoring, though it is inferior to the oil obtained from T. minuta. The dried flowers are an adulterant of saffron(Crocus sativus), used for coloring foods yellow.
Taste:
Some cultivars have pleasant-tasting flowers that are a nice addition to salads. Taste the flowers to see if they are worth eating.
Culinary Use:
The flowers of some types of Marigolds are edible. Basically, if it tastes good, you can use it.
Medicinal:
The whole herb is aromatic, digestive, diuretic, and sedative. It is used internally in the treatment of indigestion, colic, severe constipation, coughs, and dysentery. Externally, it is used to treat sore eyes and rheumatism. The leaves are harvested as required for immediate use during the growing season, whilst the flowering plant can be dried and stored for later use.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Marigolds have acquired a large body of companion gardening lore surrounding their reputed insect-repelling qualities. Companion gardeners suggest planting them with cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, and roses, insisting that the pungently scented plants control aphids, cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, Mexican bean beetles, and nematodes. Only a few of the claims are backed up by scientific research, and sometimes the results are contradictory. In addition, marigolds appear to have an allelopathic effect on some neighbors. In one study, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) repelled Mexican bean beetles, but the growth of the beans was stunted, apparently by the presence of the marigolds. One study on cabbageworm counts found that marigolds had no effect; in another, the number of worms was reduced but so was the size of the heads (apparently because of an allelopathic substance from the marigolds). Nematode studies are more definitive, showing a decrease in population in at least five species of nematodes. Early studies focused on the resistance of marigolds to nematodes and found that the plants contain a potent nematocide that controlled meadow and root know nematodes on infested land. Later studies showed that potato root nematodes were unaffected or only slightly reduced by the toxin. Spectacular nematode control resulted when marigolds were interplanted with tomatoes, and similar results were shown with tobacco. Gardeners in India row marigolds between beds of tomato family vegetables such as potatoes, chili peppers, and eggplants, changing the layout year by year so that the whole garden area receives a dose of marigold nematocide.
Companions: Due to the possible allelopathic effects, it’s probably best to plant marigolds and vegetables in separate beds. Grow the marigolds as a cover crop and turn them into the soil at the end of the season. The brightly colored flowers are always welcome in ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Marigolds appear to be allelopathic to beans and vegetables of the cabbage family.
Milkweed
How to Grow Milkweed
Germination:
Direct sow seeds just below the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring. To start seed indoors, sow just below the surface of the soil in a flat 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring. After the last frost and when the seedlings have grown tall enough to handle safely, plant them 15-18” apart in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. This plant tolerates light shade, as well as adapting well to either dry or moist soil. In cooler regions, it can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors for the winter, or as an annual.
Crop Care:
These plants are fairly slow to mature. They tolerate some soil dryness but grow best with occasional watering. -Self-seeding may occur, but volunteer plants can easily be transplanted or removed while they are still small. Blood Flower attracts numerous butterflies and hummingbirds, and resists deer. Harmless aphids may infest the foliage but can be removed by a spray of water from the hose. This plant can be cut back at any time of its growth to produce new foliage or tidy its growth. Mature plants can be divided.
Harvesting:
Blood Flower makes a striking cut flower. Cut the stems long, choosing flowers that have just opened. Keep in mind that all parts of this plant are poisonous, and the milky sap can irritate the skin.
Seed Saving:
After the plant finishes flowering, 3-4” narrow pods will form. Be sure to harvest the pods before they split and the silky fluff carries the seeds away in the wind. As soon as the seeds inside the pod ripen to their mature brown color, remove the pods and spread them out to dry. Split open the pods and take out the silky seed material. Remove the fluff from the seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Tagetes (marigolds), Morning glory, and Sunflower to attract aphid predators.
Direct sow seeds just below the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring. To start seed indoors, sow just below the surface of the soil in a flat 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring. After the last frost and when the seedlings have grown tall enough to handle safely, plant them 15-18” apart in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. This plant tolerates light shade, as well as adapting well to either dry or moist soil. In cooler regions, it can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors for the winter, or as an annual.
Crop Care:
These plants are fairly slow to mature. They tolerate some soil dryness but grow best with occasional watering. -Self-seeding may occur, but volunteer plants can easily be transplanted or removed while they are still small. Blood Flower attracts numerous butterflies and hummingbirds, and resists deer. Harmless aphids may infest the foliage but can be removed by a spray of water from the hose. This plant can be cut back at any time of its growth to produce new foliage or tidy its growth. Mature plants can be divided.
Harvesting:
Blood Flower makes a striking cut flower. Cut the stems long, choosing flowers that have just opened. Keep in mind that all parts of this plant are poisonous, and the milky sap can irritate the skin.
Seed Saving:
After the plant finishes flowering, 3-4” narrow pods will form. Be sure to harvest the pods before they split and the silky fluff carries the seeds away in the wind. As soon as the seeds inside the pod ripen to their mature brown color, remove the pods and spread them out to dry. Split open the pods and take out the silky seed material. Remove the fluff from the seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Tagetes (marigolds), Morning glory, and Sunflower to attract aphid predators.
Moonwort
How to Grow Moonwort
Germination:
Direct sow seeds in early fall, planting them just below the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting; keep the soil lightly moist until germination. This seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in the spring. Plant two seeds in each peat pot and keep the soil moist until germination. Since these plants dislike having their roots disturbed, plant them outdoors as soon as possible after the last chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established. Mature plants also appreciate occasional watering, though they also tolerate drought. This plant usually produces only foliage in its first year, coming to its full height and blooming in the second. The flowers of this plant attract bees and butterflies. This plant usually self-sows in good growing conditions.
Harvesting:
These ornamental seed pods make long-lasting additions to dried flower arrangements. After the pods have completely dried on the plant, cut the stems and hang them upside down in a dry place until the entire stem is dry. If desired, carefully remove the outer layer of the seed pods to reveal the silvery inner layer.
Seed Saving:
After the seed pods have dried on the plant, remove them and spread them out to dry completely. Open the pods to remove the flat seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Seed - cooked:
A pungent flavor, they are used as a mustard substitute. The pungency of mustard develops when cold water is added to the ground-up seed - an enzyme (myrosin) acts on a glycoside (sinigrin) to produce a sulphur compound. The reaction takes 10 - 15 minutes. Mixing with hot water or vinegar, or adding salt, inhibits the enzyme and produces a mild bitter mustard.
Root - raw:
Used before the plant produces flowers.
Medicinal:
A fatty acid obtained from the seeds has been used in the treatment of multiple sclerosis.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Silver dollar will cozy up to just about any other plant but you might be quite delighted pairing them with various tulips, Forget-Me-Not, Foxglove, and Hakone Grass. If you want to attract more beneficial insects and creatures to your garden, add an herb patch.
Direct sow seeds in early fall, planting them just below the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting; keep the soil lightly moist until germination. This seed can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before planting in the spring. Plant two seeds in each peat pot and keep the soil moist until germination. Since these plants dislike having their roots disturbed, plant them outdoors as soon as possible after the last chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established. Mature plants also appreciate occasional watering, though they also tolerate drought. This plant usually produces only foliage in its first year, coming to its full height and blooming in the second. The flowers of this plant attract bees and butterflies. This plant usually self-sows in good growing conditions.
Harvesting:
These ornamental seed pods make long-lasting additions to dried flower arrangements. After the pods have completely dried on the plant, cut the stems and hang them upside down in a dry place until the entire stem is dry. If desired, carefully remove the outer layer of the seed pods to reveal the silvery inner layer.
Seed Saving:
After the seed pods have dried on the plant, remove them and spread them out to dry completely. Open the pods to remove the flat seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Seed - cooked:
A pungent flavor, they are used as a mustard substitute. The pungency of mustard develops when cold water is added to the ground-up seed - an enzyme (myrosin) acts on a glycoside (sinigrin) to produce a sulphur compound. The reaction takes 10 - 15 minutes. Mixing with hot water or vinegar, or adding salt, inhibits the enzyme and produces a mild bitter mustard.
Root - raw:
Used before the plant produces flowers.
Medicinal:
A fatty acid obtained from the seeds has been used in the treatment of multiple sclerosis.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Silver dollar will cozy up to just about any other plant but you might be quite delighted pairing them with various tulips, Forget-Me-Not, Foxglove, and Hakone Grass. If you want to attract more beneficial insects and creatures to your garden, add an herb patch.
Morning Glory
How to Grow Morning Glory
Germination:
In warm climates, seeds can be direct sown in spring as soon as the soil reaches a temperature of 70-85 degrees F. For faster germination, nick the seed coat with a sharp knife or soak the seed in warm water overnight.
In cooler climates, the seed can be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring; plant the nicked seeds 1/4" deep and keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy until germination, which should take place in 7-10 days with adequate warmth.
Transplant seedlings as soon as possible after germination, since they resent root disturbance; the soil temperature should be at least 65 degrees F with no chance of frost.
These plants do well in well-drained moist soil, but also tolerate fairly dry soil; they prefer full sun. The vines grow very quickly, especially in heat; they will need significant support such as a fence or arbor. Without support, they will simply trail along the ground until they find something to climb. This plant self-sows readily and attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. We cannot sell this seed to customers in AZ or MI.
Crop Care:
Morning glory is often considered invasive (if they like their growing conditions) and only minimal care is needed. Make sure Morning Glory is well watered for the most healthy leaves and flowers.
Water Needs: Moderate. For the best flavor, keep Morning Glory well-watered. This helps to neutralize the spiciness of the greens and flowers.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Grow Morning glory in soil that is higher in Phosphorus and Potassium than Nitrogen. Growing Morning glory in nitrogen-rich soil produces more vegetative growth and discourages blooming.
Support: Optional. If you want your Morning Glory to grow up, you can encourage it up a trellis, fence, or some other kind of support.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed in the garden.
Seed Saving:
Morning glory's flowers and leaves are best used fresh. If you need to, store flowers in a plastic bag in the fridge for 1 - 2 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Culinary:
Taste:
Leaves and flowers are known for their peppery, mustard-like flavor.
Culinary Use:
Both the leaves and flowers are edible raw and add a sweet and spicy kick to salads. Morning Glory leaves can also be made into a pesto.
Medicinal:
The seed is anthelmintic, diuretic, and laxative. It is used in the treatment of edema, oliguria, ascariasis, and constipation. The seed contains small quantities of the hallucinogen LSD. This has been used medicinally in the treatment of various mental disorders.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Melons. Vigorous morning glory vines will twine up any type of support and grow into lush, heavy-blooming plants. They are at their best on a sturdy fence. They attract hoverflies. They don’t partner well with other annual or perennial flowers since their growth can overwhelm those plants. However, they can grow well with evergreen shrubs, such as junipers and yews, providing a pleasant surprise of color against the green foliage.
In warm climates, seeds can be direct sown in spring as soon as the soil reaches a temperature of 70-85 degrees F. For faster germination, nick the seed coat with a sharp knife or soak the seed in warm water overnight.
In cooler climates, the seed can be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring; plant the nicked seeds 1/4" deep and keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy until germination, which should take place in 7-10 days with adequate warmth.
Transplant seedlings as soon as possible after germination, since they resent root disturbance; the soil temperature should be at least 65 degrees F with no chance of frost.
These plants do well in well-drained moist soil, but also tolerate fairly dry soil; they prefer full sun. The vines grow very quickly, especially in heat; they will need significant support such as a fence or arbor. Without support, they will simply trail along the ground until they find something to climb. This plant self-sows readily and attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. We cannot sell this seed to customers in AZ or MI.
Crop Care:
Morning glory is often considered invasive (if they like their growing conditions) and only minimal care is needed. Make sure Morning Glory is well watered for the most healthy leaves and flowers.
Water Needs: Moderate. For the best flavor, keep Morning Glory well-watered. This helps to neutralize the spiciness of the greens and flowers.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Grow Morning glory in soil that is higher in Phosphorus and Potassium than Nitrogen. Growing Morning glory in nitrogen-rich soil produces more vegetative growth and discourages blooming.
Support: Optional. If you want your Morning Glory to grow up, you can encourage it up a trellis, fence, or some other kind of support.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed in the garden.
Seed Saving:
Morning glory's flowers and leaves are best used fresh. If you need to, store flowers in a plastic bag in the fridge for 1 - 2 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Culinary:
Taste:
Leaves and flowers are known for their peppery, mustard-like flavor.
Culinary Use:
Both the leaves and flowers are edible raw and add a sweet and spicy kick to salads. Morning Glory leaves can also be made into a pesto.
Medicinal:
The seed is anthelmintic, diuretic, and laxative. It is used in the treatment of edema, oliguria, ascariasis, and constipation. The seed contains small quantities of the hallucinogen LSD. This has been used medicinally in the treatment of various mental disorders.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Melons. Vigorous morning glory vines will twine up any type of support and grow into lush, heavy-blooming plants. They are at their best on a sturdy fence. They attract hoverflies. They don’t partner well with other annual or perennial flowers since their growth can overwhelm those plants. However, they can grow well with evergreen shrubs, such as junipers and yews, providing a pleasant surprise of color against the green foliage.
Moss Rose
How to Grow Moss Rose
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little additional medium over seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
When: 6-8 weeks before the end of the frost season.
Temperature: 70 - 80F
Average Germ Time: 7-14 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Press gently into the soil but do not cover
Moisture: Keep soil slightly moist, but not wet until germination
Soil: Well-drained, dry, pH 6.1-7.5
Transplant your Moss Rose seedlings into the garden in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Your transplants will thrive best in a sunny location that offers sandy and rocky soil with a pH of 6.1-7.5 that drains well at a spacing of 12" apart. If you have clay soil drainage will be poor and it's best you grow your Moss Rose in a container.
Crop Care:
Water: Water the plant only when the top of the soil is dry. Portulaca is a drought-tolerant plant that thrives in dry, desert-like soil. Use a garden hose or watering can to water the soil at the base of the plant because water may damage the blooms. To prevent the plant from rotting, always allow the top of the soil to dry between watering. Portulaca rots in soggy soil.
Feeder: Fertilize them in the early spring to boost the initial growth. Feed again in the mid-summer to prepare the plant with all the nutrients it needs for the dormancy period.
Pruning: Moss Rose plant care includes cutting back the plants during the summer to help them to stay neat and to extend their blooms into fall. Deadhead to prevent the plant from self-seeding and to continue blooming throughout the season.
Pest Control: Check Portulaca often for aphids, tiny, green insects that gather on the undersides of the leaves or at the joints of the stems and leaves. Dislodge the aphids with a strong stream of water or spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked.
Seed: raw or cooked. It can be ground into a powder and used in soups, etc., or can be added to cereals. The seed is very small and fiddly to utilize. Root - cooked.
Medicinal:
The entire plant is depurative. It is used in the treatment of hepatitis, cirrhosis of the liver with ascites, swelling, and pain in the pharynx. The fresh juice of the leaves and stems is applied externally as a lotion to snake and insect bites, burns, scalds, and eczema.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing with Zinnia and Dusty Miller.
Problems:
Check Portulaca often for aphids, tiny, green insects that gather on the undersides of the leaves or at the joints of the stems and leaves. Dislodge the aphids with a strong stream of water or spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little additional medium over seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
When: 6-8 weeks before the end of the frost season.
Temperature: 70 - 80F
Average Germ Time: 7-14 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Press gently into the soil but do not cover
Moisture: Keep soil slightly moist, but not wet until germination
Soil: Well-drained, dry, pH 6.1-7.5
Transplant your Moss Rose seedlings into the garden in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Your transplants will thrive best in a sunny location that offers sandy and rocky soil with a pH of 6.1-7.5 that drains well at a spacing of 12" apart. If you have clay soil drainage will be poor and it's best you grow your Moss Rose in a container.
Crop Care:
Water: Water the plant only when the top of the soil is dry. Portulaca is a drought-tolerant plant that thrives in dry, desert-like soil. Use a garden hose or watering can to water the soil at the base of the plant because water may damage the blooms. To prevent the plant from rotting, always allow the top of the soil to dry between watering. Portulaca rots in soggy soil.
Feeder: Fertilize them in the early spring to boost the initial growth. Feed again in the mid-summer to prepare the plant with all the nutrients it needs for the dormancy period.
Pruning: Moss Rose plant care includes cutting back the plants during the summer to help them to stay neat and to extend their blooms into fall. Deadhead to prevent the plant from self-seeding and to continue blooming throughout the season.
Pest Control: Check Portulaca often for aphids, tiny, green insects that gather on the undersides of the leaves or at the joints of the stems and leaves. Dislodge the aphids with a strong stream of water or spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked.
Seed: raw or cooked. It can be ground into a powder and used in soups, etc., or can be added to cereals. The seed is very small and fiddly to utilize. Root - cooked.
Medicinal:
The entire plant is depurative. It is used in the treatment of hepatitis, cirrhosis of the liver with ascites, swelling, and pain in the pharynx. The fresh juice of the leaves and stems is applied externally as a lotion to snake and insect bites, burns, scalds, and eczema.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing with Zinnia and Dusty Miller.
Problems:
Check Portulaca often for aphids, tiny, green insects that gather on the undersides of the leaves or at the joints of the stems and leaves. Dislodge the aphids with a strong stream of water or spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray.
Nasturtiums
How to grow Nasturtiums
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant nasturtium seeds 1/2" deep for best results. Some gardeners soak the seeds in warm water overnight for higher germination rates.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 70°F, optimal 60°F to 65°F, optimal 65°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 5 to 7 (Spring/Summer), 5 to 7 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
1-2 weeks before the last frost date: For Spring planting, it is a good idea to put your seed in the freezer for a day or two, then thaw for a day. If you freeze them just before planting, you will significantly improve the germination rate of the seed. Soaking your seeds before planting also helps.
Sow 2 seeds each in individual 4" pots of well-drained seed starting mix 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Cover 1" deep. Provide a strong light source. When seedlings have several sets of leaves pinch out the weaker seedling leaving 1 per pot.
Harden Off:
1 week after the last frost date. When the weather is evenly in the 50˚ F range harden off by leaving the plants outside for longer periods each day.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after the last frost date: Transplant seedlings into the garden 10" apart in full sun in areas with cooler summers or in part shade in areas with hotter summers. Keep plants well-watered until the plants are well-established.
Cool, Warm: Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 90°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F
Spacing: 6"-12", 1 plant per sq. ft.
Plant seeds 6 to 12" apart.
Support: No.
Start Outdoors
When Cool, Warm: Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 90°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Plant nasturtium seeds 1/2" deep for best results. Some gardeners soak the seeds in warm water overnight for higher germination rates.
Spacing: 6-12", 1 plant per sq ft. Plant seeds 6 to 12" apart.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after the last frost date: For Spring planting, it is a good idea to put your seed in the freezer for a day or two, then thaw for a day. If you freeze them just before planting, you will significantly improve the germination rate of the seed. Soaking your seeds before planting also helps. Sow seeds in spring once all danger of frost is over in full sun (or part shade in hot climates). Nasturtiums need no added fertilizer in most soils. Poke seeds into well-worked soil about 1" deep and 3 to 4" apart (thinning later to the recommended spacing, keeping only the healthiest and most productive plants). Press the soil firmly over the seeds and keep them moist.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Nasturtium is often considered invasive (if they like their growing conditions) and only minimal care is needed. Make sure Nasturtium is well watered for the most healthy leaves and flowers.
Water Needs: Moderate. For the best flavor, keep nasturtiums well-watered. This helps to neutralize the spiciness of the greens and flowers.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Grow nasturtium in soil that is higher in Phosphorus and Potassium than Nitrogen. Growing Nasturtiums in nitrogen-rich soil produces more vegetative growth and discourages blooming.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Blooms begin 35 to 52 days after germination. Leaves can be harvested at any time, although smaller leaves are less spicy.
Storage: Nasturtium's flowers and leaves are best used fresh. If you need to, store flowers in a plastic bag in the fridge for 1 - 2 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Seed Saving:
Flowers are cross-pollinated by insects, so to keep the seed pure grow only one variety. Wait for the pods to dry on the plant and remove the seeds from the inside. Be sure to remove the fleshy coating on the seeds before you put them away for storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Leaves and flowers are known for their peppery, mustard-like flavor.
Culinary Use: Both the leaves and flowers are edible raw and add a sweet and spicy kick to salads. Nasturtium leaves can also be made into a pesto.
Roots: Not edible.
Medicinal:
The whole plant is antibiotic, antiseptic, aperient, diuretic, and, expectorant. It is useful in breaking up congestion in the respiratory passages and chest during colds. The juice or tea can be used as an external or internal antiseptic. The plant has antibiotic properties towards aerobic spore-forming bacteria, it is also said to have a beneficial effect on the blood by promoting the formation of blood cells.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Nasturtiums are said to deter pests-including white flies from beans, cabbage, and its relatives, and cucumbers. Some companion gardeners plant nasturtiums where they will later plant their squash, hoping to keep squash bugs away. Scientific trials show conflicting evidence. In some tests, pests are reduced; in others, the nasturtiums had no effect, or worse, appeared to draw pests to the garden. It's worth conducting your own field trials. The growing plant attracts aphids away from other plants. Research indicates that aphids flying over plants with orange or yellow flowers do not stop, nor do they prey on plants growing next to or above the flowers.
Companions: Nasturtiums are available in compact or trailing forms. They flower well in poor soil and tend to produce more leaves than flowers if you plant them in the rich soil of the vegetable garden. Trailing types are pretty in a window box with marigolds and other annuals.
Enemies: None known.
Other Uses:
An insecticide can be made from an infusion of leaves and soap flakes.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant nasturtium seeds 1/2" deep for best results. Some gardeners soak the seeds in warm water overnight for higher germination rates.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 70°F, optimal 60°F to 65°F, optimal 65°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 5 to 7 (Spring/Summer), 5 to 7 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
1-2 weeks before the last frost date: For Spring planting, it is a good idea to put your seed in the freezer for a day or two, then thaw for a day. If you freeze them just before planting, you will significantly improve the germination rate of the seed. Soaking your seeds before planting also helps.
Sow 2 seeds each in individual 4" pots of well-drained seed starting mix 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Cover 1" deep. Provide a strong light source. When seedlings have several sets of leaves pinch out the weaker seedling leaving 1 per pot.
Harden Off:
1 week after the last frost date. When the weather is evenly in the 50˚ F range harden off by leaving the plants outside for longer periods each day.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after the last frost date: Transplant seedlings into the garden 10" apart in full sun in areas with cooler summers or in part shade in areas with hotter summers. Keep plants well-watered until the plants are well-established.
Cool, Warm: Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 90°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F
Spacing: 6"-12", 1 plant per sq. ft.
Plant seeds 6 to 12" apart.
Support: No.
Start Outdoors
When Cool, Warm: Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 90°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Plant nasturtium seeds 1/2" deep for best results. Some gardeners soak the seeds in warm water overnight for higher germination rates.
Spacing: 6-12", 1 plant per sq ft. Plant seeds 6 to 12" apart.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after the last frost date: For Spring planting, it is a good idea to put your seed in the freezer for a day or two, then thaw for a day. If you freeze them just before planting, you will significantly improve the germination rate of the seed. Soaking your seeds before planting also helps. Sow seeds in spring once all danger of frost is over in full sun (or part shade in hot climates). Nasturtiums need no added fertilizer in most soils. Poke seeds into well-worked soil about 1" deep and 3 to 4" apart (thinning later to the recommended spacing, keeping only the healthiest and most productive plants). Press the soil firmly over the seeds and keep them moist.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Nasturtium is often considered invasive (if they like their growing conditions) and only minimal care is needed. Make sure Nasturtium is well watered for the most healthy leaves and flowers.
Water Needs: Moderate. For the best flavor, keep nasturtiums well-watered. This helps to neutralize the spiciness of the greens and flowers.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Grow nasturtium in soil that is higher in Phosphorus and Potassium than Nitrogen. Growing Nasturtiums in nitrogen-rich soil produces more vegetative growth and discourages blooming.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Blooms begin 35 to 52 days after germination. Leaves can be harvested at any time, although smaller leaves are less spicy.
Storage: Nasturtium's flowers and leaves are best used fresh. If you need to, store flowers in a plastic bag in the fridge for 1 - 2 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Seed Saving:
Flowers are cross-pollinated by insects, so to keep the seed pure grow only one variety. Wait for the pods to dry on the plant and remove the seeds from the inside. Be sure to remove the fleshy coating on the seeds before you put them away for storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Leaves and flowers are known for their peppery, mustard-like flavor.
Culinary Use: Both the leaves and flowers are edible raw and add a sweet and spicy kick to salads. Nasturtium leaves can also be made into a pesto.
Roots: Not edible.
Medicinal:
The whole plant is antibiotic, antiseptic, aperient, diuretic, and, expectorant. It is useful in breaking up congestion in the respiratory passages and chest during colds. The juice or tea can be used as an external or internal antiseptic. The plant has antibiotic properties towards aerobic spore-forming bacteria, it is also said to have a beneficial effect on the blood by promoting the formation of blood cells.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Nasturtiums are said to deter pests-including white flies from beans, cabbage, and its relatives, and cucumbers. Some companion gardeners plant nasturtiums where they will later plant their squash, hoping to keep squash bugs away. Scientific trials show conflicting evidence. In some tests, pests are reduced; in others, the nasturtiums had no effect, or worse, appeared to draw pests to the garden. It's worth conducting your own field trials. The growing plant attracts aphids away from other plants. Research indicates that aphids flying over plants with orange or yellow flowers do not stop, nor do they prey on plants growing next to or above the flowers.
Companions: Nasturtiums are available in compact or trailing forms. They flower well in poor soil and tend to produce more leaves than flowers if you plant them in the rich soil of the vegetable garden. Trailing types are pretty in a window box with marigolds and other annuals.
Enemies: None known.
Other Uses:
An insecticide can be made from an infusion of leaves and soap flakes.
Obedient Plant
How to Grow Obedient Plant
Germination:
Obedient plant can be started from seed, about 2 months before planting out. Fall plant or cold stratify at 40F for 1 month for best results. Sow seeds just below the soil surface at 70F and water.
Crop Care:
Obedient plants are easily established and very drought-tolerant, forgiving plants. Although they prefer moist, slightly acidic soil (5.5 - 6.3 pH), they’ll grow just fine in average to poor soil, and spreading will be less of a problem. Transplant outdoors before the last frost or at the beginning of autumn. Spacing 12 to 24 inches.
Don’t fertilize your obedient plants, unless they show signs of nutrient deficiencies.
The biggest maintenance chore is keeping obedient plant from rampant spreading. Although the plants pull out easily enough, they seem to pop up everywhere. If you’re tempted to wait and let them flower, be sure to get out there before they go to seed. Long-season gardeners can get a second flush of blooms if you deadhead the first flowers. This will also cut down on the self-seeding. Wait until spring to cut back old foliage. Leave it on the plants to act as a protective winter mulch.
Harvesting:
Cut to ground after bloom; divide every two years to keep plants in bounds.
Seed Saving:
Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing it with Yarrow, Balloon Flowers, and Cape Fuchsia.
Obedient plant can be started from seed, about 2 months before planting out. Fall plant or cold stratify at 40F for 1 month for best results. Sow seeds just below the soil surface at 70F and water.
Crop Care:
Obedient plants are easily established and very drought-tolerant, forgiving plants. Although they prefer moist, slightly acidic soil (5.5 - 6.3 pH), they’ll grow just fine in average to poor soil, and spreading will be less of a problem. Transplant outdoors before the last frost or at the beginning of autumn. Spacing 12 to 24 inches.
Don’t fertilize your obedient plants, unless they show signs of nutrient deficiencies.
The biggest maintenance chore is keeping obedient plant from rampant spreading. Although the plants pull out easily enough, they seem to pop up everywhere. If you’re tempted to wait and let them flower, be sure to get out there before they go to seed. Long-season gardeners can get a second flush of blooms if you deadhead the first flowers. This will also cut down on the self-seeding. Wait until spring to cut back old foliage. Leave it on the plants to act as a protective winter mulch.
Harvesting:
Cut to ground after bloom; divide every two years to keep plants in bounds.
Seed Saving:
Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing it with Yarrow, Balloon Flowers, and Cape Fuchsia.
Pansy
How to Grow Pansy
Germination:
Start seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. Lightly cover the seeds with soil, as they need light to germinate. After sowing, slightly moisten the potting mix and place the seed tray in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, then move to a heated area.
Germination temperature: 65 F to 70 F
Days to emergence: 14 to 21
Crop Care:
Set out plants in early spring. Pansies are best grown in humusy, consistently moist, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Best with part afternoon shade to coax as much bloom as possible from the plants before the onset of hot summer weather. Deadhead spent flowers to prolong bloom. Cut back leggy plants to revitalize.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed outdoors.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, oval pods will begin to develop. When ripe, each pod will split open into three sections that hold the ripe seeds. Remove the seeds.
Culinary:
Young leaves and flower buds - raw, cooked, or used as a garnish. A stronger flavor than most other members of this genus. When added to soup they thicken it in much the same way as okra. Some caution is advised if the plant has yellow flowers since these can cause diarrhea if eaten in large quantities. A tea can be made from the leaves.
Problems:
Aphids, Mealybug, and Spider mites.
Start seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. Lightly cover the seeds with soil, as they need light to germinate. After sowing, slightly moisten the potting mix and place the seed tray in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, then move to a heated area.
Germination temperature: 65 F to 70 F
Days to emergence: 14 to 21
Crop Care:
Set out plants in early spring. Pansies are best grown in humusy, consistently moist, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Best with part afternoon shade to coax as much bloom as possible from the plants before the onset of hot summer weather. Deadhead spent flowers to prolong bloom. Cut back leggy plants to revitalize.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed outdoors.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, oval pods will begin to develop. When ripe, each pod will split open into three sections that hold the ripe seeds. Remove the seeds.
Culinary:
Young leaves and flower buds - raw, cooked, or used as a garnish. A stronger flavor than most other members of this genus. When added to soup they thicken it in much the same way as okra. Some caution is advised if the plant has yellow flowers since these can cause diarrhea if eaten in large quantities. A tea can be made from the leaves.
Problems:
Aphids, Mealybug, and Spider mites.
Penstemon
How to Grow Penstemon
Germination:
Penstemons do best on well-drained soils. Most ecotypes do well on infertile, disturbed soils. They have excellent cold winter and drought tolerance. They will tolerate weakly saline to weakly acidic sites. They are usually found in open areas but will tolerate semi-shaded conditions. They are not tolerant of fire but are fire resistant due to leaves staying green with relatively high moisture content during the fire season.
Crop Care:
These species should be seeded with a drill or broadcast at a depth of 1/4 inch or less into a firm seedbed. The ideal seeding depth is 1/8 inch. The best seeding results are obtained from seeding in very early spring on heavy to medium textured soils and in late fall on medium to light textured soils. Late summer (August to mid-September) seeding is not recommended. Dormant fall seedings (preferred seeding period for penstemons) will pre-chill seed and reduce seed dormancy, which is very strong in some species. Mulching, irrigation, and weed control all benefit stand establishment. Seedling vigor is good, but not as good as most grasses. Germination may not occur until the second growing season. Flowering should not be expected until at least the second growing season.
Seed Saving:
Cleaned seed should be allowed to dry and then stored in a cool dry area. An after-ripening period of 3 to 4 months is required. Seed retains viability for several years under these conditions.
Companion Planting:
Native companion plants for the formal prairie garden: Spiderwort (Tradescantia sp.), Evening Primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa), and Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa).
Native companion plants for the pond edge: Gray-headed coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), Kansas Gayfeather (Liatris pycnostachya), Meadow Blazing Star (Liatris ligulistylis), or Rattlesnake Master (Eryngium yuccafolium)
Native Companion plants for rock gardens: Evening Primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa), Shortstem spiderwort (Tradescantia tharpii), Purple Poppy Mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Narrow-leaf Coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia)
Penstemons do best on well-drained soils. Most ecotypes do well on infertile, disturbed soils. They have excellent cold winter and drought tolerance. They will tolerate weakly saline to weakly acidic sites. They are usually found in open areas but will tolerate semi-shaded conditions. They are not tolerant of fire but are fire resistant due to leaves staying green with relatively high moisture content during the fire season.
Crop Care:
These species should be seeded with a drill or broadcast at a depth of 1/4 inch or less into a firm seedbed. The ideal seeding depth is 1/8 inch. The best seeding results are obtained from seeding in very early spring on heavy to medium textured soils and in late fall on medium to light textured soils. Late summer (August to mid-September) seeding is not recommended. Dormant fall seedings (preferred seeding period for penstemons) will pre-chill seed and reduce seed dormancy, which is very strong in some species. Mulching, irrigation, and weed control all benefit stand establishment. Seedling vigor is good, but not as good as most grasses. Germination may not occur until the second growing season. Flowering should not be expected until at least the second growing season.
Seed Saving:
Cleaned seed should be allowed to dry and then stored in a cool dry area. An after-ripening period of 3 to 4 months is required. Seed retains viability for several years under these conditions.
Companion Planting:
Native companion plants for the formal prairie garden: Spiderwort (Tradescantia sp.), Evening Primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa), and Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa).
Native companion plants for the pond edge: Gray-headed coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), Kansas Gayfeather (Liatris pycnostachya), Meadow Blazing Star (Liatris ligulistylis), or Rattlesnake Master (Eryngium yuccafolium)
Native Companion plants for rock gardens: Evening Primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa), Shortstem spiderwort (Tradescantia tharpii), Purple Poppy Mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Narrow-leaf Coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia)
Petunia
How to Grow Petunia
Germination:
Plant the seeds indoors about 10-12 weeks before the last frost of spring. In a germination flat, press the seed into the surface of the soil; this seed needs light to germinate. Since this seed is tiny, mixing it with sand may help it spread evenly. Keep the soil lightly moist and in a warm place until germination, which usually takes 7-14 days. As soon as the seedlings can safely be handled, transplant them into individual pots; plant them outdoors after the last chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established. Mature plants tolerate some drought, though they flourish with occasional watering. Keep in mind that this plant does not like getting its foliage and blooms wet, and should be watered accordingly. To encourage branching, pinch back the tips as they grow. For extended blooming, remove the spent blossoms. This spreading, plant makes an excellent choice for hanging baskets, borders, and containers; it also attracts hummingbirds and butterflies and has good pest resistance. This plant tolerates high heat well.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open and release their seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have begun to open; watch them carefully to prevent loss, since the seeds can easily be blown away by the wind. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Petunias and Organic Pest Control
Petunias are ideal as companion plants because they are nature’s version of a pesticide. They repel a variety of pests including the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, and tomato worms. They are also effective against some types of aphids and Mexican bean beetles.
Some of the plants that thrive when you plant petunias as companions include brassicas, beans, basil, tomatoes, grapes, corn, and, peppers. Roses also fare well when this natural insect deterrent is planted in proximity.
Protecting Your Vegetable Harvest
The brassica family includes broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts, and cauliflower. When planting with broccoli or cabbage, petunias will increase the likelihood of you getting a good harvest because they trap cabbage worms. These “worms” are in fact a species of caterpillar that will eat through an entire crop if left unchecked so the best, organic method for you to control these pests is to plant petunias in your cabbage beds.
Tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and, tobacco are part of the same family and are susceptible to the same type of pests such as aphids, hornworms, cabbage loopers, Japanese beetles, and weevils. Planting petunias or geraniums among your crops will either distract or repel these pests from your harvest plants.
Protecting Grape Vines
Grape vines attract a large variety of pests from aphids, mites and, moths, to nematodes. Certain nematode species attack grapevine roots, which leads to stunted growth because the nutrient and water absorption cycle is affected. Companion planting around grape vines of petunias will protect your grapes from most of these pests and guarantee better vigor and health for your plants.
Companion planting is the best way for you to control pests in your garden naturally and cleanly. Commercially available pesticides contain chemicals that cannot be considered beneficial to your health.
Attracting Beneficial Insects with Companion Plants
Petunias are one of the most reliable companion plants due to the wide range of pests they repel. Their scent also attracts bees, butterflies, and, moths to your vegetable garden which are all beneficial to your plants as they help with pollination. In addition, they also add beauty to your garden. A cabbage patch takes on a whole new look if your cabbage plants are interspersed with petunias.
Plant the seeds indoors about 10-12 weeks before the last frost of spring. In a germination flat, press the seed into the surface of the soil; this seed needs light to germinate. Since this seed is tiny, mixing it with sand may help it spread evenly. Keep the soil lightly moist and in a warm place until germination, which usually takes 7-14 days. As soon as the seedlings can safely be handled, transplant them into individual pots; plant them outdoors after the last chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established. Mature plants tolerate some drought, though they flourish with occasional watering. Keep in mind that this plant does not like getting its foliage and blooms wet, and should be watered accordingly. To encourage branching, pinch back the tips as they grow. For extended blooming, remove the spent blossoms. This spreading, plant makes an excellent choice for hanging baskets, borders, and containers; it also attracts hummingbirds and butterflies and has good pest resistance. This plant tolerates high heat well.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open and release their seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have begun to open; watch them carefully to prevent loss, since the seeds can easily be blown away by the wind. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Petunias and Organic Pest Control
Petunias are ideal as companion plants because they are nature’s version of a pesticide. They repel a variety of pests including the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, and tomato worms. They are also effective against some types of aphids and Mexican bean beetles.
Some of the plants that thrive when you plant petunias as companions include brassicas, beans, basil, tomatoes, grapes, corn, and, peppers. Roses also fare well when this natural insect deterrent is planted in proximity.
Protecting Your Vegetable Harvest
The brassica family includes broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts, and cauliflower. When planting with broccoli or cabbage, petunias will increase the likelihood of you getting a good harvest because they trap cabbage worms. These “worms” are in fact a species of caterpillar that will eat through an entire crop if left unchecked so the best, organic method for you to control these pests is to plant petunias in your cabbage beds.
Tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and, tobacco are part of the same family and are susceptible to the same type of pests such as aphids, hornworms, cabbage loopers, Japanese beetles, and weevils. Planting petunias or geraniums among your crops will either distract or repel these pests from your harvest plants.
Protecting Grape Vines
Grape vines attract a large variety of pests from aphids, mites and, moths, to nematodes. Certain nematode species attack grapevine roots, which leads to stunted growth because the nutrient and water absorption cycle is affected. Companion planting around grape vines of petunias will protect your grapes from most of these pests and guarantee better vigor and health for your plants.
Companion planting is the best way for you to control pests in your garden naturally and cleanly. Commercially available pesticides contain chemicals that cannot be considered beneficial to your health.
Attracting Beneficial Insects with Companion Plants
Petunias are one of the most reliable companion plants due to the wide range of pests they repel. Their scent also attracts bees, butterflies, and, moths to your vegetable garden which are all beneficial to your plants as they help with pollination. In addition, they also add beauty to your garden. A cabbage patch takes on a whole new look if your cabbage plants are interspersed with petunias.
Pheasant's Eye
How to Grow Pheasant's Eye
Germination:
For direct sowing, scatter the seeds in prepared soil either in late fall or early spring. The seed can also be started indoors, about ¼” below the surface; keep the temperature at 65 - 70 degrees F. The soil should be consistently moist and protected from the hottest rays of the sun. Germination usually takes place within 30-40 days; though they germinate slowly, the plants are hardy and grow quickly. After the last frost of spring, transplant the seedlings 9-12” apart in well-drained, rich soil and full sun or partial shade.
Crop Care:
Keep the plants well watered, preventing the soil from drying out. Pheasant’s Eye plants tend to fall over easily, and may need the support of other plants or stakes to prevent damage. Deadheading the flowers will prolong their blooming. Since this plant reseeds itself easily, removing the wilted flowers also prevents volunteer seedlings. Pheasant’s Eye also grows well as a container plant.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, harvest blossoms that have just opened; leave a long stem.
Seed Saving:
Remove the seed heads as soon as they mature and begin to turn dry and brown. Spread them out to finish drying, then thresh them to remove the seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Medicinal:
The plant is a cardiotonic, diuretic, and stimulant. Some caution is advised in the use of this remedy, see the notes above on toxicity. The flowers are considered to be diuretic, laxative, and, lithontripic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Corncockle (Agrostemma githago) makes for a superb border mix with Pheasant's Eye.
For direct sowing, scatter the seeds in prepared soil either in late fall or early spring. The seed can also be started indoors, about ¼” below the surface; keep the temperature at 65 - 70 degrees F. The soil should be consistently moist and protected from the hottest rays of the sun. Germination usually takes place within 30-40 days; though they germinate slowly, the plants are hardy and grow quickly. After the last frost of spring, transplant the seedlings 9-12” apart in well-drained, rich soil and full sun or partial shade.
Crop Care:
Keep the plants well watered, preventing the soil from drying out. Pheasant’s Eye plants tend to fall over easily, and may need the support of other plants or stakes to prevent damage. Deadheading the flowers will prolong their blooming. Since this plant reseeds itself easily, removing the wilted flowers also prevents volunteer seedlings. Pheasant’s Eye also grows well as a container plant.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, harvest blossoms that have just opened; leave a long stem.
Seed Saving:
Remove the seed heads as soon as they mature and begin to turn dry and brown. Spread them out to finish drying, then thresh them to remove the seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Medicinal:
The plant is a cardiotonic, diuretic, and stimulant. Some caution is advised in the use of this remedy, see the notes above on toxicity. The flowers are considered to be diuretic, laxative, and, lithontripic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Corncockle (Agrostemma githago) makes for a superb border mix with Pheasant's Eye.
Pink Nodding Onion
How to Grow Pink Nodding Onion
Germination:
Nodding onion is easily propagated by seed. For spring planting, you will need to refrigerate your seeds for 60 days before your last frost date. Seeds germinate best if scarified.
Germination Temp: 60 degrees F
Germination Time: 20-50 Days
Plant seeds outdoors in the fall. Seeds germinate best if scarified.
Nodding onion is most effectively planted in small groups. Transplant your seedlings 1' apart in a sunny location after your last frost date. Keep young seedlings moist until they become established.
Crop Care:
This plant adapts well to almost any soil and can survive in shade, clay, or rocky soil. Mature plants tolerate drought very well and do not often need watering. If excess moisture remains in the soil, the bulb may rot. These plants benefit from being divided every third year, or when the clump expands to 8-10 plants. New plants grow easily from transplanted bulbs.
Harvesting:
The bulbs of this plant are mildly toxic in large amounts but have no ill effects when used in moderate amounts or as a flavoring. Both the leaves and flowers have a strong onion flavor and can be used in fresh salads, entrees, or as a garnish. The leaves can be cut any time after they reach a size of 6". The flowers have the strongest flavor at the height of their maturity
Seed Saving:
Seed capsules remain green until just before they dehisce when they turn tan or straw-colored. At this time–usually Sept. to Oct.–squeeze open the capsules. If the seeds are black or turning black, collect them. Air-dry and store in a refrigerated container for up to three years.
Culinary:
Bulb: raw or cooked. Strongly flavored, it is mainly used as a flavoring.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A delicious, strong-onion flavor, they are very nice in salads. The leaves are available from spring until autumn.
Flowers: raw or cooked. A delicious strong onion flavor, somewhat stronger than the leaves especially if the seeds are starting to set. They make a very decorative and tasty addition to the salad bowl.
Known hazards of Allium cernuum: Although no individual reports regarding this species have been seen, there have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of certain members of this genus. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Medicinal:
The whole plant has a mild medicinal activity similar to the action of garlic (Allium sativum). It is used specifically as a poultice on the chest for the treatment of respiratory ailments and the juice has been used in the treatment of kidney stones. The juice of the plant is used in treating colds, croup, sore throats, etc. A poultice of the plant is applied externally to various infections such as sore throats, sores, swellings, chest, and pleurisy pains.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant Nodding Pink Onion strategically among other perennials to hide/distract from foliage as it yellows and fades in late summer. Little Bluestem, Anise-Hyssop, Stiff Coreopsis, Milkweed, White Turtlehead, Prairie Smoke, Pale Purple Coneflower, Butterfly weed, and Zig Zag Goldenrod all live in similar soil types and moisture levels and, as a bonus, are also native!
Other Uses: The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent. The whole plant is said to repel insects and moles. The juice can be applied to exposed skin to repel biting insects.
Nodding onion is easily propagated by seed. For spring planting, you will need to refrigerate your seeds for 60 days before your last frost date. Seeds germinate best if scarified.
Germination Temp: 60 degrees F
Germination Time: 20-50 Days
Plant seeds outdoors in the fall. Seeds germinate best if scarified.
Nodding onion is most effectively planted in small groups. Transplant your seedlings 1' apart in a sunny location after your last frost date. Keep young seedlings moist until they become established.
Crop Care:
This plant adapts well to almost any soil and can survive in shade, clay, or rocky soil. Mature plants tolerate drought very well and do not often need watering. If excess moisture remains in the soil, the bulb may rot. These plants benefit from being divided every third year, or when the clump expands to 8-10 plants. New plants grow easily from transplanted bulbs.
Harvesting:
The bulbs of this plant are mildly toxic in large amounts but have no ill effects when used in moderate amounts or as a flavoring. Both the leaves and flowers have a strong onion flavor and can be used in fresh salads, entrees, or as a garnish. The leaves can be cut any time after they reach a size of 6". The flowers have the strongest flavor at the height of their maturity
Seed Saving:
Seed capsules remain green until just before they dehisce when they turn tan or straw-colored. At this time–usually Sept. to Oct.–squeeze open the capsules. If the seeds are black or turning black, collect them. Air-dry and store in a refrigerated container for up to three years.
Culinary:
Bulb: raw or cooked. Strongly flavored, it is mainly used as a flavoring.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A delicious, strong-onion flavor, they are very nice in salads. The leaves are available from spring until autumn.
Flowers: raw or cooked. A delicious strong onion flavor, somewhat stronger than the leaves especially if the seeds are starting to set. They make a very decorative and tasty addition to the salad bowl.
Known hazards of Allium cernuum: Although no individual reports regarding this species have been seen, there have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of certain members of this genus. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Medicinal:
The whole plant has a mild medicinal activity similar to the action of garlic (Allium sativum). It is used specifically as a poultice on the chest for the treatment of respiratory ailments and the juice has been used in the treatment of kidney stones. The juice of the plant is used in treating colds, croup, sore throats, etc. A poultice of the plant is applied externally to various infections such as sore throats, sores, swellings, chest, and pleurisy pains.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant Nodding Pink Onion strategically among other perennials to hide/distract from foliage as it yellows and fades in late summer. Little Bluestem, Anise-Hyssop, Stiff Coreopsis, Milkweed, White Turtlehead, Prairie Smoke, Pale Purple Coneflower, Butterfly weed, and Zig Zag Goldenrod all live in similar soil types and moisture levels and, as a bonus, are also native!
Other Uses: The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent. The whole plant is said to repel insects and moles. The juice can be applied to exposed skin to repel biting insects.
Poached Egg Plant
How to Grow Poached Egg Plant
Germination:
Direct sow in fall for the earliest blooms, or after the last spring frost for early summer bloom. Plant more every several weeks for continuous flowers. These plants can also be started indoors in peat pots; sow just below the surface of the soil, keeping it evenly moist and at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Germination usually occurs within 15-20 days. Transplant outdoors as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. This plant self-seeds freely but can be cut back after blooming to prevent spreading. This plant makes an excellent ground cover or border plant and attracts bees and butterflies.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, the seeds will develop; each flower produces five seeds that drop to the ground when ripe. Collect the seeds as soon as they begin to turn brown. Store in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Lettuce, Mizuna, Tatsoi, and, Endive. This low-growing plant spreads into a mat of green foliage covered with flowers. Grow along pathways or edges of beds, or near tall plants like sweet corn or tomatoes.
Direct sow in fall for the earliest blooms, or after the last spring frost for early summer bloom. Plant more every several weeks for continuous flowers. These plants can also be started indoors in peat pots; sow just below the surface of the soil, keeping it evenly moist and at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Germination usually occurs within 15-20 days. Transplant outdoors as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Crop Care:
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. This plant self-seeds freely but can be cut back after blooming to prevent spreading. This plant makes an excellent ground cover or border plant and attracts bees and butterflies.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, the seeds will develop; each flower produces five seeds that drop to the ground when ripe. Collect the seeds as soon as they begin to turn brown. Store in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Lettuce, Mizuna, Tatsoi, and, Endive. This low-growing plant spreads into a mat of green foliage covered with flowers. Grow along pathways or edges of beds, or near tall plants like sweet corn or tomatoes.
Polka Dot Plant
How to Grow Polka Dot Plant
Germination:
Sow Polka Dot plant seeds indoors 4 - 6 weeks before the frost season has passed. Use well-draining potting soil and gently press Hypoestes seeds into soil. Covering with plastic wrap to hold in heat and moisture is helpful. Pink Polka Dot plants tend to get leggy, so do not hesitate to pinch them back to encourage a more compact plant.
Plants are grown as bedding annuals or in containers. Bedding plants are best grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in part shade 12-16" apart. Pinch tips to promote bushiness. Some gardeners remove flower spikes because they are somewhat inconspicuous and tend to detract from the attractive foliage. Overwinter containers and grow houseplants in bright indoor light, but not direct sun. Bedding plants can be dug and potted up in the fall.
Crop Care:
The plant will give you the best color when it is in a low light situation, but this causes the canes to lengthen and get leggy while searching for light. Indirect bright sunlight is the ideal location for this plant indoors.
Outdoor plants need little supplemental feeding but indoor plants should be fed once per month.
Older plants tend to get leggy, but you can control legginess by cutting the canes back to lower growth and letting the plant fill in.
Companion Planting:
Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana Xtreme 'Mix'), Sweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas 'Margarita'), and Lobelia (Lobelia erinus Riviera 'Mix').
Sow Polka Dot plant seeds indoors 4 - 6 weeks before the frost season has passed. Use well-draining potting soil and gently press Hypoestes seeds into soil. Covering with plastic wrap to hold in heat and moisture is helpful. Pink Polka Dot plants tend to get leggy, so do not hesitate to pinch them back to encourage a more compact plant.
Plants are grown as bedding annuals or in containers. Bedding plants are best grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in part shade 12-16" apart. Pinch tips to promote bushiness. Some gardeners remove flower spikes because they are somewhat inconspicuous and tend to detract from the attractive foliage. Overwinter containers and grow houseplants in bright indoor light, but not direct sun. Bedding plants can be dug and potted up in the fall.
Crop Care:
The plant will give you the best color when it is in a low light situation, but this causes the canes to lengthen and get leggy while searching for light. Indirect bright sunlight is the ideal location for this plant indoors.
Outdoor plants need little supplemental feeding but indoor plants should be fed once per month.
Older plants tend to get leggy, but you can control legginess by cutting the canes back to lower growth and letting the plant fill in.
Companion Planting:
Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana Xtreme 'Mix'), Sweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas 'Margarita'), and Lobelia (Lobelia erinus Riviera 'Mix').
Poppy
How to Grow Poppy
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-14 days. Do not attempt to move seedlings, since they resent having their roots disturbed. For an early start, start the seed indoors in peat pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost and plant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Mature plants tolerate drought well and grow well in dry or gravelly soil, though they also flourish in average soil. Do not attempt to move the plants, since they do not transplant well. A layer of mulch will help keep the soil cool since this plant does not appreciate high heat. It is highly frost tolerant and survives temperatures up to -20 degrees F. Deadhead flowers to extend the blooming season. This plant often self-sows and is highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and birds.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately. For especially long-lasting blooms, sear the freshly cut ends with boiling water or a flame.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open at the top to reveal the ripe seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have opened; watch them carefully to prevent loss, since the seeds can easily be blown away by the wind. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place; keep in mind that they tend to lose their viability quickly, and are best planted within a year of harvest.
Culinary:
Leaves: Cooked. Very agreeable to the taste, the leaves are a good source of vitamin C. Some caution is advised, see the notes above on toxicity.
Seed: Raw or cooked. Oleaginous and antiscorbutic, the seed is very agreeable to the taste. It contains some opium. Caution is advised
Medicinal:
Anodyne, antiscorbutic. The flowers and seed capsules are mildly diaphoretic.
Companion Planting:
Poppy is a great companion plant for roses. It looks wonderful with blue flowers like Campanula 'Telham Beauty', Centaurea 'Blue Boy', and Nigella 'Miss Jekyll Blue'.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Direct sow in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-14 days. Do not attempt to move seedlings, since they resent having their roots disturbed. For an early start, start the seed indoors in peat pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost and plant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Mature plants tolerate drought well and grow well in dry or gravelly soil, though they also flourish in average soil. Do not attempt to move the plants, since they do not transplant well. A layer of mulch will help keep the soil cool since this plant does not appreciate high heat. It is highly frost tolerant and survives temperatures up to -20 degrees F. Deadhead flowers to extend the blooming season. This plant often self-sows and is highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and birds.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place it in water immediately. For especially long-lasting blooms, sear the freshly cut ends with boiling water or a flame.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, small pods will form that eventually open at the top to reveal the ripe seeds. Gather the seeds as soon as the pods have opened; watch them carefully to prevent loss, since the seeds can easily be blown away by the wind. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place; keep in mind that they tend to lose their viability quickly, and are best planted within a year of harvest.
Culinary:
Leaves: Cooked. Very agreeable to the taste, the leaves are a good source of vitamin C. Some caution is advised, see the notes above on toxicity.
Seed: Raw or cooked. Oleaginous and antiscorbutic, the seed is very agreeable to the taste. It contains some opium. Caution is advised
Medicinal:
Anodyne, antiscorbutic. The flowers and seed capsules are mildly diaphoretic.
Companion Planting:
Poppy is a great companion plant for roses. It looks wonderful with blue flowers like Campanula 'Telham Beauty', Centaurea 'Blue Boy', and Nigella 'Miss Jekyll Blue'.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Poppy, California
How to Grow California Poppy
Germination:
Sow in early spring, planting the seed ¼” below the surface of the soil; keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur in 2-3 weeks at a soil temperature of 60-65 degrees. In USDA Zones 8 and warmer, this seed can be fall planted. Poppies do not transplant well and must be planted while very small if started indoors.
Crop Care:
Sow in early spring, planting the seed ¼” below the surface of the soil; keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur in 2-3 weeks at a soil temperature of 60-65 degrees. In USDA Zones 8 and warmer, this seed can be fall planted. Poppies do not transplant well and must be planted while very small if started indoors.
Harvesting:
For the longest-lasting cut flowers, choose poppies that have just begun to open; cut them in the morning while the moisture is at its peak. Sear the cut ends of the flowers with boiling water or a match, and immediately plunge them into cold water. Place them in a vase with water at room temperature.
Seed Saving:
When saving poppy seeds, keep in mind that the resulting flowers sometimes revert to the dominant orange or red blossoms. After the petals drop off, a capsule will form and turn from green to tan. Since the capsules will eventually split and explosively release their seeds, cut them off as soon as the color begins to turn and the seed inside has ripened to grayish black. Spread the capsules out to dry for several days, then split them to remove the seeds. Store the cleaned seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Leaves - cooked. This plant is in a family that contains many poisonous plants so some caution is advised in using it.
Medicinal:
The Californian poppy is a bitter sedative herb that acts as a diuretic, relieves pain, relaxes spasms, and, promotes perspiration. The whole plant is harvested when in flower and dried for use in tinctures and infusions. It is taken internally in the treatment of nervous tension, anxiety, insomnia, and, incontinence (especially in children). The watery sap is mildly narcotic and has been used to relieve toothache. It is similar in its effect to the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum) but is much milder in its action and does not depress the central nervous system. Another report says that it has a markedly different effect on the central nervous system, that it is not a narcotic but tends to normalize psychological function. Its gently antispasmodic, sedative, and analgesic actions make it a valuable herbal medicine for treating physical and psychological problems in children. It may also prove beneficial in attempts to overcome bedwetting, difficulty in sleeping, and nervous tension and anxiety. An extract of the root is used as a wash on the breasts to suppress the flow of milk in lactating females.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Poppy is a great companion plant for roses. It looks wonderful with blue flowers like Campanula 'Telham Beauty', Centaurea 'Blue Boy', and Nigella 'Miss Jekyll Blue'.
Sow in early spring, planting the seed ¼” below the surface of the soil; keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur in 2-3 weeks at a soil temperature of 60-65 degrees. In USDA Zones 8 and warmer, this seed can be fall planted. Poppies do not transplant well and must be planted while very small if started indoors.
Crop Care:
Sow in early spring, planting the seed ¼” below the surface of the soil; keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur in 2-3 weeks at a soil temperature of 60-65 degrees. In USDA Zones 8 and warmer, this seed can be fall planted. Poppies do not transplant well and must be planted while very small if started indoors.
Harvesting:
For the longest-lasting cut flowers, choose poppies that have just begun to open; cut them in the morning while the moisture is at its peak. Sear the cut ends of the flowers with boiling water or a match, and immediately plunge them into cold water. Place them in a vase with water at room temperature.
Seed Saving:
When saving poppy seeds, keep in mind that the resulting flowers sometimes revert to the dominant orange or red blossoms. After the petals drop off, a capsule will form and turn from green to tan. Since the capsules will eventually split and explosively release their seeds, cut them off as soon as the color begins to turn and the seed inside has ripened to grayish black. Spread the capsules out to dry for several days, then split them to remove the seeds. Store the cleaned seeds in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Leaves - cooked. This plant is in a family that contains many poisonous plants so some caution is advised in using it.
Medicinal:
The Californian poppy is a bitter sedative herb that acts as a diuretic, relieves pain, relaxes spasms, and, promotes perspiration. The whole plant is harvested when in flower and dried for use in tinctures and infusions. It is taken internally in the treatment of nervous tension, anxiety, insomnia, and, incontinence (especially in children). The watery sap is mildly narcotic and has been used to relieve toothache. It is similar in its effect to the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum) but is much milder in its action and does not depress the central nervous system. Another report says that it has a markedly different effect on the central nervous system, that it is not a narcotic but tends to normalize psychological function. Its gently antispasmodic, sedative, and analgesic actions make it a valuable herbal medicine for treating physical and psychological problems in children. It may also prove beneficial in attempts to overcome bedwetting, difficulty in sleeping, and nervous tension and anxiety. An extract of the root is used as a wash on the breasts to suppress the flow of milk in lactating females.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Poppy is a great companion plant for roses. It looks wonderful with blue flowers like Campanula 'Telham Beauty', Centaurea 'Blue Boy', and Nigella 'Miss Jekyll Blue'.
Poppy, Peony
How to Grow Poppy, Peony
Germination:
Grow Peony Poppy seeds indoors in late winter. Use peat pots and starter mix. Sow the flower seeds on the surface and press the flower seeds into the soil. Peony Poppy seeds need light to germinate. Keep flower seeds moist until germination. Although the optimal germination temperature is about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds will germinate at warmer temperatures, but they germinate best when planted in cool to cold soil, the warming soil will trigger germination. Germination should occur within 14 - 21 days.
Crop Care:
The flower seed can be sown in the late fall, late winter, or early spring. Prepare the soil by loosening the top several inches, spread the flower seeds, and lightly rake. Firm the soil by walking lightly over the area. Thin Peony Poppy seedlings to 15 - 18 inches apart. Peony Poppy plants will reach 32 - 40 inches in height and 12 inches in width. Plant lower-growing flowers in front for a breathtaking display of color! By regularly deadheading these plants through the summer, you’ll encourage new buds to form so you can enjoy the stunning blooms for even longer.
Harvesting:
The blooms make stunning floral arrangements and keep well in the vase. The pods are also beautiful for flower arrangements, they can also be dried for winter arrangements and dried floral projects. Cut the pods off leaving a long stem if possible and hang them upside down to dry.
Seed Saving:
In the garden, each individual flower lasts from three to eight days. When they have finished blooming, the petals start falling off. At this point, the plant uses its remaining energy to reproduce and the pods will grow fat with seeds. To extend the plant's bloom time in the garden, cut off old blooms before pods are formed.
Eventually, the pods will begin to dry out and the vents at the top of the pods will open when the seeds are ripe, ready to release the seed. The pods can be cut off to harvest the seeds or the plants can be left standing in the garden to self-sow for next year. If seeding is not desired, simply deadhead spent flowers before pods are formed.
Companion Planting:
Peonies enjoy plenty of companion plants, including Alliums, Bearded Irises (Iris germanica), Siberian Irises (Iris Siberica), Columbines (Aquilegia), Spring bulbs, Roses, and small shrubs and trees.
Grow Peony Poppy seeds indoors in late winter. Use peat pots and starter mix. Sow the flower seeds on the surface and press the flower seeds into the soil. Peony Poppy seeds need light to germinate. Keep flower seeds moist until germination. Although the optimal germination temperature is about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds will germinate at warmer temperatures, but they germinate best when planted in cool to cold soil, the warming soil will trigger germination. Germination should occur within 14 - 21 days.
Crop Care:
The flower seed can be sown in the late fall, late winter, or early spring. Prepare the soil by loosening the top several inches, spread the flower seeds, and lightly rake. Firm the soil by walking lightly over the area. Thin Peony Poppy seedlings to 15 - 18 inches apart. Peony Poppy plants will reach 32 - 40 inches in height and 12 inches in width. Plant lower-growing flowers in front for a breathtaking display of color! By regularly deadheading these plants through the summer, you’ll encourage new buds to form so you can enjoy the stunning blooms for even longer.
Harvesting:
The blooms make stunning floral arrangements and keep well in the vase. The pods are also beautiful for flower arrangements, they can also be dried for winter arrangements and dried floral projects. Cut the pods off leaving a long stem if possible and hang them upside down to dry.
Seed Saving:
In the garden, each individual flower lasts from three to eight days. When they have finished blooming, the petals start falling off. At this point, the plant uses its remaining energy to reproduce and the pods will grow fat with seeds. To extend the plant's bloom time in the garden, cut off old blooms before pods are formed.
Eventually, the pods will begin to dry out and the vents at the top of the pods will open when the seeds are ripe, ready to release the seed. The pods can be cut off to harvest the seeds or the plants can be left standing in the garden to self-sow for next year. If seeding is not desired, simply deadhead spent flowers before pods are formed.
Companion Planting:
Peonies enjoy plenty of companion plants, including Alliums, Bearded Irises (Iris germanica), Siberian Irises (Iris Siberica), Columbines (Aquilegia), Spring bulbs, Roses, and small shrubs and trees.
Poppy Mallow
How to Grow Poppy Mallow
Germination:
For the best germination rates, soak the seed in water overnight, then mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. After the last frost of spring, sow the treated seed 1/4" below the surface of the soil. For fall planting, simply soak the seed in water overnight and direct sow 1/4" below the surface of the soil. Thin or transplant seedlings.
Crop Care:
This plant grows well in dry, rocky, or shallow soil. Since it withstands drought very well, it does not need to be watered; too much moisture will cause disease. For the most profuse blooms, remove faded blossoms. This plant will self-seed and slowly spread, making an attractive native ground cover. The stems will sprawl along the ground, primarily growing out rather than up; they may go dormant in the summer. Since mature plants have long tap roots, transplanting is not recommended. This plant attracts bees and many butterflies.
Harvesting:
These vining stems and bright blossoms make attractive additions to flower arrangements. Cut the stems to the desired length and place them in water.
Seed Saving:
The mature seed heads will turn a pale tan, and easily come apart when pressed. Remove the ripe seed heads and separate the seed from the husks. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Purple Poppy Mallow flowers can be used as a delightful addition to delicious organic salads. Its 4-potato-likeinch leaves are commonly used to thicken soups or they can also be eaten raw as an emergency food. Finally, the roots of this plant have a sweet, starchy, sweet potato like flavor and can be eaten raw, roasted, or even boiled.
Medicinal:
The roots of Purple Poppy Mallow have been used for over 200 years as medicine by European Settlers and Native Americans. A decoction of Purple Poppy Mallow roots was used as a painkiller to provide relief to internal pains. The roots were also dried, burned, and the smoke was inhaled to treat head colds.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Purple Poppy Mallow is also a host plant for Hoverflies, Parasitic Wasps, and Gray Hairstreak Butterfly larvae. Gray Hairstreak Butterflies have blueish-grey wings with orange and black spots that are used to trick predators. Gray hairstreak butterflies are not only excellent pollinators, but in all stages of their life provide food for other beneficial animals and insects such as birds, lizards, frogs, toads, wasps, and even bats! Scientists who study butterfly populations say that butterflies can be used like a barometer to indict if something isn't right in the environment such as if is a heavy usage of pesticides being used in your area. Bees and Green Lacewings are also attracted to this plant.
Companions: Butterfly Milkweed, Purple Coneflower, Prairie Dropseed, Prairie Phlox, Purple Prairie Clover, Blue Grama Grass.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Crown rot may occur in poorly drained soils.
For the best germination rates, soak the seed in water overnight, then mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. After the last frost of spring, sow the treated seed 1/4" below the surface of the soil. For fall planting, simply soak the seed in water overnight and direct sow 1/4" below the surface of the soil. Thin or transplant seedlings.
Crop Care:
This plant grows well in dry, rocky, or shallow soil. Since it withstands drought very well, it does not need to be watered; too much moisture will cause disease. For the most profuse blooms, remove faded blossoms. This plant will self-seed and slowly spread, making an attractive native ground cover. The stems will sprawl along the ground, primarily growing out rather than up; they may go dormant in the summer. Since mature plants have long tap roots, transplanting is not recommended. This plant attracts bees and many butterflies.
Harvesting:
These vining stems and bright blossoms make attractive additions to flower arrangements. Cut the stems to the desired length and place them in water.
Seed Saving:
The mature seed heads will turn a pale tan, and easily come apart when pressed. Remove the ripe seed heads and separate the seed from the husks. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Purple Poppy Mallow flowers can be used as a delightful addition to delicious organic salads. Its 4-potato-likeinch leaves are commonly used to thicken soups or they can also be eaten raw as an emergency food. Finally, the roots of this plant have a sweet, starchy, sweet potato like flavor and can be eaten raw, roasted, or even boiled.
Medicinal:
The roots of Purple Poppy Mallow have been used for over 200 years as medicine by European Settlers and Native Americans. A decoction of Purple Poppy Mallow roots was used as a painkiller to provide relief to internal pains. The roots were also dried, burned, and the smoke was inhaled to treat head colds.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Purple Poppy Mallow is also a host plant for Hoverflies, Parasitic Wasps, and Gray Hairstreak Butterfly larvae. Gray Hairstreak Butterflies have blueish-grey wings with orange and black spots that are used to trick predators. Gray hairstreak butterflies are not only excellent pollinators, but in all stages of their life provide food for other beneficial animals and insects such as birds, lizards, frogs, toads, wasps, and even bats! Scientists who study butterfly populations say that butterflies can be used like a barometer to indict if something isn't right in the environment such as if is a heavy usage of pesticides being used in your area. Bees and Green Lacewings are also attracted to this plant.
Companions: Butterfly Milkweed, Purple Coneflower, Prairie Dropseed, Prairie Phlox, Purple Prairie Clover, Blue Grama Grass.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Crown rot may occur in poorly drained soils.
Purple Rock Cress
How to Grow Purple Rock Cress
Germination:
In late fall or early spring, sow the seeds on the surface of the soil; do not cover them, since they need light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should take place within 10-14 days. To start the seed indoors, sow it on the surface of a flat about 6 weeks before the last spring frost; keep it lightly moist and at a temperature of 60-65 degrees F until germination. Transplant or thin the seedlings 12-15” apart. This plant prefers full sun and very well-drained soil, though it tolerates partial shade.
Crop Care:
Seedlings should be watered regularly for the healthiest growth, though established plants prefer dry soil and only need water in the driest weather. A layer of light gravel may help keep the soil well-drained. Too much moisture, humidity, or heat will damage the plant. When grown from seed, these plants will bloom in their second season. After the plants finish flowering, prune them back to half their size for tidy, compact new growth. Avoid pruning them in late fall or spring, since this can prevent blooming. Mature plants can be divided after 2-3 years of growth. Because of its hardy, low growth and cascading habit, this plant makes a good choice for rock gardens, walls, or between paving stones. Deer avoid this plant.
Harvesting:
This flower is best displayed outdoors since it is unsuitable as a cut flower.
Seed Saving:
Watch the developing seed heads carefully, looking for the mature dark color of the seed. Remove the heads individually when ripe, or shake the entire plant over a container to gather the seed
Companion Planting:
There are several other rock gardens or wall plants for sun that bloom about the same time as Aubrieta. Some of the more popular ones include Arabis, candytuft, perennial alyssum, pasque flower, and cushion spurge. All of these are great companions for bulbs that, like rock cress, prefer well-drained, slightly alkaline soil and full sun. The blues, purples, and reds of Aubrieta make perfect companions for pink tulips or golden daffodils.
In late fall or early spring, sow the seeds on the surface of the soil; do not cover them, since they need light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should take place within 10-14 days. To start the seed indoors, sow it on the surface of a flat about 6 weeks before the last spring frost; keep it lightly moist and at a temperature of 60-65 degrees F until germination. Transplant or thin the seedlings 12-15” apart. This plant prefers full sun and very well-drained soil, though it tolerates partial shade.
Crop Care:
Seedlings should be watered regularly for the healthiest growth, though established plants prefer dry soil and only need water in the driest weather. A layer of light gravel may help keep the soil well-drained. Too much moisture, humidity, or heat will damage the plant. When grown from seed, these plants will bloom in their second season. After the plants finish flowering, prune them back to half their size for tidy, compact new growth. Avoid pruning them in late fall or spring, since this can prevent blooming. Mature plants can be divided after 2-3 years of growth. Because of its hardy, low growth and cascading habit, this plant makes a good choice for rock gardens, walls, or between paving stones. Deer avoid this plant.
Harvesting:
This flower is best displayed outdoors since it is unsuitable as a cut flower.
Seed Saving:
Watch the developing seed heads carefully, looking for the mature dark color of the seed. Remove the heads individually when ripe, or shake the entire plant over a container to gather the seed
Companion Planting:
There are several other rock gardens or wall plants for sun that bloom about the same time as Aubrieta. Some of the more popular ones include Arabis, candytuft, perennial alyssum, pasque flower, and cushion spurge. All of these are great companions for bulbs that, like rock cress, prefer well-drained, slightly alkaline soil and full sun. The blues, purples, and reds of Aubrieta make perfect companions for pink tulips or golden daffodils.
Queen of the Prairie
How to Grow Queen of the Prairie
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, planting the seeds just below the surface and lightly compacting the soil. For spring planting or starting indoors, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 90 days before direct sowing; keep the soil consistently moist until germination. These seeds germinate best at temperatures around 55 degrees F. Thin or transplant the seedlings. Transplanting should be done while the plants are small since the taproot makes it difficult at larger sizes.
Crop Care:
These plants do not tolerate drought well, and the soil should be kept consistently moist and rich. Dry soil or too much sun tends to damage the foliage since this plant prefers cooler weather. When grown from seed, this plant will start producing flowers in its second year. Deadheading will not produce new flowers, though cutting back the plant will cause new growth of foliage. Mature plants can be divided in the fall after they have gone dormant; they will also self-seed and spread by rhizomes, though volunteer plants can easily be removed. This plant attracts bees and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After blooming, the flower head will develop clusters of seed heads that turn from green to red to brown. Remove entire seed heads when they have ripened to reddish brown, and spread them out to dry. Since the heads will not split, they must be crushed to remove the fine seed; however, they can also be planted without being cleaned. Separate the seed from the stems and store them in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
The root is rich in tannin, it is used as an astringent in the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, bleeding, etc. It has also been used in the treatment of various heart complaints. The plant probably contains salicylic acid, the chemical forerunner of aspirin. This is anti-inflammatory and analgesic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions are Spider flower, Purple coneflower, Black-eyed Susan, Bee balm, Salvia, Lobelia, and Aster.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Though quite tall, this sturdy plant usually does not need staking
Direct sow in late fall, planting the seeds just below the surface and lightly compacting the soil. For spring planting or starting indoors, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 90 days before direct sowing; keep the soil consistently moist until germination. These seeds germinate best at temperatures around 55 degrees F. Thin or transplant the seedlings. Transplanting should be done while the plants are small since the taproot makes it difficult at larger sizes.
Crop Care:
These plants do not tolerate drought well, and the soil should be kept consistently moist and rich. Dry soil or too much sun tends to damage the foliage since this plant prefers cooler weather. When grown from seed, this plant will start producing flowers in its second year. Deadheading will not produce new flowers, though cutting back the plant will cause new growth of foliage. Mature plants can be divided in the fall after they have gone dormant; they will also self-seed and spread by rhizomes, though volunteer plants can easily be removed. This plant attracts bees and resists deer.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water.
Seed Saving:
After blooming, the flower head will develop clusters of seed heads that turn from green to red to brown. Remove entire seed heads when they have ripened to reddish brown, and spread them out to dry. Since the heads will not split, they must be crushed to remove the fine seed; however, they can also be planted without being cleaned. Separate the seed from the stems and store them in a cool, dry place.
Medicinal:
The root is rich in tannin, it is used as an astringent in the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, bleeding, etc. It has also been used in the treatment of various heart complaints. The plant probably contains salicylic acid, the chemical forerunner of aspirin. This is anti-inflammatory and analgesic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions are Spider flower, Purple coneflower, Black-eyed Susan, Bee balm, Salvia, Lobelia, and Aster.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Though quite tall, this sturdy plant usually does not need staking
Red Hot Poker
How to Grow Red Hot Poker
Germination:
Your seeds will need a cold-treatment 10-12 weeks before your last frost date. Simply moisten a paper towel until it is damp and wring out any excess moisture. Fold your paper towel in half and place your seeds on one half of it. Then Fold your paper towel in half again to secure the seeds in place. Now place your paper towel in a Ziploc bag and place it in the refrigerator for 4 weeks. After the cold treatment, sow 3 seeds on the soil surface of pots that are several inches deep to preserve the taproot. Barely cover them with peat moss and leave them where temperatures are 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Gemination should occur within 21 to 28 days and you should allow your seedlings to grow indoors 6-8 weeks before planting them outdoors.
Grow your seedlings in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils with a pH of 5.8 - 7.0 in full sun. Kniphofia Uvaria prefers rich, humusy soil and is intolerant of wet, heavy soils. Plant your seedlings in a location that is protected from wind.
Crop Care:
While Red Hot Poker is drought resistant, during high temperatures you should water regularly.
In late fall, you will need to cut the foliage off your plant at the base and remove all the spent flower spikes.
The crowns of Red Hot Poker will need winter protection in USDA Zones 5 and 6. Add 2-3" of mulch over the crown to retain water during hot temps and to prevent water from settling and freezing on the crown at the end of fall. Be sure not to disturb any established clumps.
Seed Saving:
When all the florets have fallen from the flower spike, cut off the entire stem. Allow the stem and pods to dry out before removing the pods from the stems. Allow the pods to dry for at least another 24 hours before you break them open to collect the seeds.
Companion Planting:
Companions include: Artemisia, Asters, Baptisia, Cosmos, Dahlias, Gaillardia, Heliopsis, Lamb’s Ear, Liatris, New Zealand Flax, Salvia, and Yarrow.
Problems:
No significant insect or disease problems. Watch for root rot in poorly-drained soils. Thrips may appear in some areas.
Your seeds will need a cold-treatment 10-12 weeks before your last frost date. Simply moisten a paper towel until it is damp and wring out any excess moisture. Fold your paper towel in half and place your seeds on one half of it. Then Fold your paper towel in half again to secure the seeds in place. Now place your paper towel in a Ziploc bag and place it in the refrigerator for 4 weeks. After the cold treatment, sow 3 seeds on the soil surface of pots that are several inches deep to preserve the taproot. Barely cover them with peat moss and leave them where temperatures are 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Gemination should occur within 21 to 28 days and you should allow your seedlings to grow indoors 6-8 weeks before planting them outdoors.
Grow your seedlings in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils with a pH of 5.8 - 7.0 in full sun. Kniphofia Uvaria prefers rich, humusy soil and is intolerant of wet, heavy soils. Plant your seedlings in a location that is protected from wind.
Crop Care:
While Red Hot Poker is drought resistant, during high temperatures you should water regularly.
In late fall, you will need to cut the foliage off your plant at the base and remove all the spent flower spikes.
The crowns of Red Hot Poker will need winter protection in USDA Zones 5 and 6. Add 2-3" of mulch over the crown to retain water during hot temps and to prevent water from settling and freezing on the crown at the end of fall. Be sure not to disturb any established clumps.
Seed Saving:
When all the florets have fallen from the flower spike, cut off the entire stem. Allow the stem and pods to dry out before removing the pods from the stems. Allow the pods to dry for at least another 24 hours before you break them open to collect the seeds.
Companion Planting:
Companions include: Artemisia, Asters, Baptisia, Cosmos, Dahlias, Gaillardia, Heliopsis, Lamb’s Ear, Liatris, New Zealand Flax, Salvia, and Yarrow.
Problems:
No significant insect or disease problems. Watch for root rot in poorly-drained soils. Thrips may appear in some areas.
Rose of Heaven
How to Grow Rose of Heaven
Germination:
Germinating Rose of Heaven Flower Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter stratified seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Press the seeds into the soil but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit .
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 60
Average Germ Time: 7-10 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Press into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.1-7.8
Summer Crop:
2-4 weeks after the Last frost date:
Sow your seeds into the garden in early spring after all dangers of frost. Rose of Heaven prefers an average to rich, well-drained soil, that has a pH between 6.1 and 7.8. This plant prefers full sun in areas with mild summers and part shade in areas with hot summers.
When outdoor temp: 60°F
When min soil temp: 60°F.
Seed Depth: Do not cover the seed but press them into the soil
Spacing: 8"-10"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Light: Rose of Heaven will thrive in both full sun and partial shade. They should receive full sun for at least half of the day. Bright sunlight will help bring out the plant's vibrant colors and promote stem strength.
Water: Rose of Heaven is somewhat drought-resistant, but don't let your plants become too dry. Water regularly.
Temperature and Humidity: These are hardy plants that can tolerate a bit of frost. Some varieties can survive freezing temperatures. It's generally best to plant these plants after the coldest part of the winter has passed.
Fertilizer: Rose of Heaven doesn't require fertilizer, but it can help promote healthy growth. Apply monthly throughout the warmer months.
Pruning: Rose of Heaven doesn't require extensive pruning; however, you can deadhead spent flowers to encourage fuller blooms. Trim inflorescences or flowering stalks to about two inches, and prune stems and branches after the flowers have bloomed. Time your pruning to before the seeds have matured, so the plant puts its energy toward its flowers instead of forming seeds.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with flowers that are 3/4 opened and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water.
Companion Planting:
California Poppies and Cornflowers.
Germinating Rose of Heaven Flower Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter stratified seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Press the seeds into the soil but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit .
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Temperature: 60
Average Germ Time: 7-10 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Press into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.1-7.8
Summer Crop:
2-4 weeks after the Last frost date:
Sow your seeds into the garden in early spring after all dangers of frost. Rose of Heaven prefers an average to rich, well-drained soil, that has a pH between 6.1 and 7.8. This plant prefers full sun in areas with mild summers and part shade in areas with hot summers.
When outdoor temp: 60°F
When min soil temp: 60°F.
Seed Depth: Do not cover the seed but press them into the soil
Spacing: 8"-10"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Light: Rose of Heaven will thrive in both full sun and partial shade. They should receive full sun for at least half of the day. Bright sunlight will help bring out the plant's vibrant colors and promote stem strength.
Water: Rose of Heaven is somewhat drought-resistant, but don't let your plants become too dry. Water regularly.
Temperature and Humidity: These are hardy plants that can tolerate a bit of frost. Some varieties can survive freezing temperatures. It's generally best to plant these plants after the coldest part of the winter has passed.
Fertilizer: Rose of Heaven doesn't require fertilizer, but it can help promote healthy growth. Apply monthly throughout the warmer months.
Pruning: Rose of Heaven doesn't require extensive pruning; however, you can deadhead spent flowers to encourage fuller blooms. Trim inflorescences or flowering stalks to about two inches, and prune stems and branches after the flowers have bloomed. Time your pruning to before the seeds have matured, so the plant puts its energy toward its flowers instead of forming seeds.
Harvesting:
These blooms make excellent cut flowers. Choose stalks with flowers that are 3/4 opened and place them in water immediately; strip the foliage that will fall below the surface of the water.
Companion Planting:
California Poppies and Cornflowers.
Sedum
How to Grow Sedum
Germination:
When: Spring or summer is the best time to sow the seeds.
Germinating Oregon Stonecrop Sedum Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Press seeds into the soil but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70°F.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop.
Temperature: 60-70°F. 68-70°F Ideal.
Average Germ Time: 14-28 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press them into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Oregon Stonecrop Sedum prefers loose loamy, sandy, or gravelly soil with sharp drainage that has a pH between 5.8 and 6.8 in an area that offers full sun.
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F.
Spacing: 24"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Light and Exposure: Oregon stonecrop does best in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sun per day). The plant requires high light to develop strong leaf coloration and will stretch badly under low-light conditions. Low light levels can be offset with dry soil conditions, but only for a short period.
Temperature: Oregon Stonecrop prefers a night temperature above 55 °F and daytime temperature must be at least 65-70 °F. However, the hot days of summer will not be a problem and the temperature of 100 °F can still produce good quality plants. High temperatures and high humidity can create a lot of disease issues, so stay on the lookout. The plant can tolerate freezing temperatures. When the temperature drops below 50 °F the plant begins to go dormant. If you experiment with a plant that is borderline resistant to freezing temperatures, or if you live in an area where the temperature frequently drops below freezing, then consider growing the plant in containers so you can move them indoors for protection from cold conditions.
Watering: Oregon Stonecrop is drought-tolerant but does need some water. They do their best with regular watering from spring through fall. Water thoroughly and wait for the soil to dry out before watering again. Young plants will need supplemental water for the first couple of weeks to establish roots. Established plants, as long as your area gets rain every couple of weeks at the least, shouldn’t need any extra watering. Avoid wetting the leaves, stems, and flowers when watering. In winter, water just enough to keep your plants from shriveling.
Fertilizer: Sedum oreganum typically needs no supplemental fertilization and can tolerate nutrient-poor soil. In fact, if the soil is too rich, this can cause weak, leggy growth. If you have very poor soil, mixing some compost into it will generally be enough to give your plant a boost. Chemical fertilizer can lead to stretching and flopping.
Pruning: Oregon stonecrop don't need deadheading (removing spent blooms), and they often look good even into winter. However, extreme heat and a lack of sunlight can cause sedum plants to get a bit leggy. Cutting back the plants after they are done flowering can help to maintain their shape and encourage bushier, sturdier growth.
Over Wintering: Care needs to be taken to avoid overwatering and over-fertilizing any of these plants, especially during the short days, lower light levels, and cooler conditions of winter.
Covering the plant with a layer of straw or placing a tent made from plastic or bed sheets over the plants can protect them from sudden freezing temperatures; don't allow the plastic to touch the plants, however. Remove any kind of covering as soon as the temperature warms.
Culinary:
Leaves and young shoots: raw or cooked.
Known hazards of Sedum oreganum: Although not poisonous, if large quantities of this plant are eaten it can cause a stomach upset.
Companion Planting:
Blue Fescue, Hostas, Asters, Chrysanthemums, Purple Coneflower, and Japanese Anemone.
When: Spring or summer is the best time to sow the seeds.
Germinating Oregon Stonecrop Sedum Seeds:
1) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
2) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
3) Press seeds into the soil but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
4) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70°F.
5) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop.
Temperature: 60-70°F. 68-70°F Ideal.
Average Germ Time: 14-28 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press them into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Oregon Stonecrop Sedum prefers loose loamy, sandy, or gravelly soil with sharp drainage that has a pH between 5.8 and 6.8 in an area that offers full sun.
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F.
Spacing: 24"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Light and Exposure: Oregon stonecrop does best in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sun per day). The plant requires high light to develop strong leaf coloration and will stretch badly under low-light conditions. Low light levels can be offset with dry soil conditions, but only for a short period.
Temperature: Oregon Stonecrop prefers a night temperature above 55 °F and daytime temperature must be at least 65-70 °F. However, the hot days of summer will not be a problem and the temperature of 100 °F can still produce good quality plants. High temperatures and high humidity can create a lot of disease issues, so stay on the lookout. The plant can tolerate freezing temperatures. When the temperature drops below 50 °F the plant begins to go dormant. If you experiment with a plant that is borderline resistant to freezing temperatures, or if you live in an area where the temperature frequently drops below freezing, then consider growing the plant in containers so you can move them indoors for protection from cold conditions.
Watering: Oregon Stonecrop is drought-tolerant but does need some water. They do their best with regular watering from spring through fall. Water thoroughly and wait for the soil to dry out before watering again. Young plants will need supplemental water for the first couple of weeks to establish roots. Established plants, as long as your area gets rain every couple of weeks at the least, shouldn’t need any extra watering. Avoid wetting the leaves, stems, and flowers when watering. In winter, water just enough to keep your plants from shriveling.
Fertilizer: Sedum oreganum typically needs no supplemental fertilization and can tolerate nutrient-poor soil. In fact, if the soil is too rich, this can cause weak, leggy growth. If you have very poor soil, mixing some compost into it will generally be enough to give your plant a boost. Chemical fertilizer can lead to stretching and flopping.
Pruning: Oregon stonecrop don't need deadheading (removing spent blooms), and they often look good even into winter. However, extreme heat and a lack of sunlight can cause sedum plants to get a bit leggy. Cutting back the plants after they are done flowering can help to maintain their shape and encourage bushier, sturdier growth.
Over Wintering: Care needs to be taken to avoid overwatering and over-fertilizing any of these plants, especially during the short days, lower light levels, and cooler conditions of winter.
Covering the plant with a layer of straw or placing a tent made from plastic or bed sheets over the plants can protect them from sudden freezing temperatures; don't allow the plastic to touch the plants, however. Remove any kind of covering as soon as the temperature warms.
Culinary:
Leaves and young shoots: raw or cooked.
Known hazards of Sedum oreganum: Although not poisonous, if large quantities of this plant are eaten it can cause a stomach upset.
Companion Planting:
Blue Fescue, Hostas, Asters, Chrysanthemums, Purple Coneflower, and Japanese Anemone.
Sensitive Plant
How to Grow Sensitive Plant
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring. To soften the hard coating on these seeds, rub them lightly with sandpaper or soak them in warm water overnight before sowing. Sow them in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since light helps them germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which usually occurs within 21-30 days. The seed can also be started indoors. Transplant seedlings as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established; they usually will not produce blooms until their second year of growth, due to the development of their tap root. Mature plants tolerate drought well and flourish in dry or rocky areas; they usually do not spread. This plant's unusual flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds.
Crop Care:
Light and Exposure: Sensitive plants are not very shade-tolerant. They thrive with eight hours of daylight and can tolerate partial shade.
Temperature: Potted specimens thrive in typical indoor temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees. If grown as potted patio plants, sensitive plants will perform best if moved indoors when temperatures stray outside the 65 to 75 degree ideal range.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist for a sensitive plant but not waterlogged
Fertilizer: Sensitive plants occur naturally in nutrient-poor soil, so fertilization is generally not required.
Pruning: Prune a sensitive plant regularly to keep it full and bushy rather than leggy.
Over Wintering: Watering should be slightly reduced for the winter months—both for indoor houseplants and garden plants that go into semi-dormancy for the winter.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed outdoors.
Seed Saving:
This plant will eventually produce rough 3-5" pods that will split and release their seeds. Harvest the pods as soon as they have begun to dry, but before they split open. Separate the seeds from the pods. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Direct sow in early spring. To soften the hard coating on these seeds, rub them lightly with sandpaper or soak them in warm water overnight before sowing. Sow them in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since light helps them germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which usually occurs within 21-30 days. The seed can also be started indoors. Transplant seedlings as soon as they can safely be handled and there is no chance of frost.
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established; they usually will not produce blooms until their second year of growth, due to the development of their tap root. Mature plants tolerate drought well and flourish in dry or rocky areas; they usually do not spread. This plant's unusual flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds.
Crop Care:
Light and Exposure: Sensitive plants are not very shade-tolerant. They thrive with eight hours of daylight and can tolerate partial shade.
Temperature: Potted specimens thrive in typical indoor temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees. If grown as potted patio plants, sensitive plants will perform best if moved indoors when temperatures stray outside the 65 to 75 degree ideal range.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist for a sensitive plant but not waterlogged
Fertilizer: Sensitive plants occur naturally in nutrient-poor soil, so fertilization is generally not required.
Pruning: Prune a sensitive plant regularly to keep it full and bushy rather than leggy.
Over Wintering: Watering should be slightly reduced for the winter months—both for indoor houseplants and garden plants that go into semi-dormancy for the winter.
Harvesting:
These blossoms do not perform well as cut flowers and are best enjoyed outdoors.
Seed Saving:
This plant will eventually produce rough 3-5" pods that will split and release their seeds. Harvest the pods as soon as they have begun to dry, but before they split open. Separate the seeds from the pods. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Snapdragon
How to Grow Snapdragon
Germination:
If you live in other temperate zones and are growing these plants as annuals, start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last average frost date.
Before you start, you’ll need to chill the seeds for three to five days in the refrigerator to improve germination. Alternatively, after sowing you can place the pots in a cool location of 40-47°F for five days.
Start snapdragon seeds indoors in a peat starter pot or starter tray. Fill the starter pot or tray three-quarters full with sterile starting soil. Place the seeds on top of the starter soil. Light is required for germination so do not cover the seeds with soil. Lightly mist the seeds with water to keep them moist.
Slip the starter peat pot into a clear plastic bag. Maintain the room temperature at 64-72 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage germination. Snapdragon seeds will germinate in approximately 10-21 days.
When the seedlings have one set of true leaves, thin them to one strong seedling per cell. When seedlings are about 4" tall, you can pinch the top inch of the stem off. This prevents leggy growth and produces fuller, multi-branched flower stems. After the danger of frost has passed, transplant the seedlings to the garden in an area with full sun and organically best-performing rich, loamy, well-draining soil 12-16" apart.
Crop Care:
Pinching the growing tips promotes bushy growth, deadheading spent flower stems encourages further blooming, and a midseason cutback to a height of about six inches will stimulate a second bloom.
If you live in a cool zone, and your flowers bloom once and then peter out, cut them down to six inches, feed them with a well-balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 (NPK) and they should perk up.
Other ways to help your plants perform well include weeding the garden regularly to minimize competition for water and reduce the breeding ground for insects and pathogens.
You can also apply a two-inch layer of mulch to reduce weed growth, as well as to keep the ground cool and aid in moisture retention.
When applying fertilizer, be sure to place it near, but not on plants to avoid burning them.
The same goes for mulch. Keep it a few inches away from plant stems to promote air circulation and inhibit fungal development.
At season’s end, remove wilted foliage to prevent the wintering over of pests and pathogens.
Seed Saving:
Knowing when to harvest garden seeds is the first step to saving plants for future use. Once flowers begin to fade at the close of the season, most flower seeds are ripe for picking. Seed harvesting should be done on a dry and sunny day. Once seedpods have changed from green to brown and can be easily split, you can begin collecting flower seeds. Many people choose to gather seeds while deadheading plants in the garden.
Always harvest seeds from your best-performing plants. When you’re ready for seed harvesting, you’ll need to know the best method of how to collect flower seeds. Use clean and sharp garden scissors to cut the pods or seed heads from the plant and place them in a paper collection bag. Label all of your bags so that you do not forget which seeds are which. It is important to use only paper bags, as seeds can spoil in plastic. Once you have collected your seeds, you can spread them out on a screen or a piece of newspaper and dry them at room temperature for a week.
Medicinal:
The leaves and flowers are antiphlogistic, bitter, resolvent, and stimulant. They have been employed in poultices on tumors and ulcers. It is effective in the treatment of all kinds of inflammation and is also used on hemorrhoids. The plant is harvested in the summer when in flower and is dried for later use.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing with Ammi visnaga (Toothpick Weed), Dahlia 'Karma Lagoon', Zinnia 'Profusion Series', Cotinus coggygria (Smokebush), Phygelius (Cape Fuchsia), Coreopsis 'Mercury Rising', Rudbeckia Hirta, Cosmos Sulphureus 'Bright Lights', Echinacea purpurea, Zinnia elegans, and Cannas (Canna Lilies).
Other Uses:
A green dye is obtained from the flowers, it does not require a mordant. Dark green and gold can also be obtained if a mordant is used.
If you live in other temperate zones and are growing these plants as annuals, start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last average frost date.
Before you start, you’ll need to chill the seeds for three to five days in the refrigerator to improve germination. Alternatively, after sowing you can place the pots in a cool location of 40-47°F for five days.
Start snapdragon seeds indoors in a peat starter pot or starter tray. Fill the starter pot or tray three-quarters full with sterile starting soil. Place the seeds on top of the starter soil. Light is required for germination so do not cover the seeds with soil. Lightly mist the seeds with water to keep them moist.
Slip the starter peat pot into a clear plastic bag. Maintain the room temperature at 64-72 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage germination. Snapdragon seeds will germinate in approximately 10-21 days.
When the seedlings have one set of true leaves, thin them to one strong seedling per cell. When seedlings are about 4" tall, you can pinch the top inch of the stem off. This prevents leggy growth and produces fuller, multi-branched flower stems. After the danger of frost has passed, transplant the seedlings to the garden in an area with full sun and organically best-performing rich, loamy, well-draining soil 12-16" apart.
Crop Care:
Pinching the growing tips promotes bushy growth, deadheading spent flower stems encourages further blooming, and a midseason cutback to a height of about six inches will stimulate a second bloom.
If you live in a cool zone, and your flowers bloom once and then peter out, cut them down to six inches, feed them with a well-balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 (NPK) and they should perk up.
Other ways to help your plants perform well include weeding the garden regularly to minimize competition for water and reduce the breeding ground for insects and pathogens.
You can also apply a two-inch layer of mulch to reduce weed growth, as well as to keep the ground cool and aid in moisture retention.
When applying fertilizer, be sure to place it near, but not on plants to avoid burning them.
The same goes for mulch. Keep it a few inches away from plant stems to promote air circulation and inhibit fungal development.
At season’s end, remove wilted foliage to prevent the wintering over of pests and pathogens.
Seed Saving:
Knowing when to harvest garden seeds is the first step to saving plants for future use. Once flowers begin to fade at the close of the season, most flower seeds are ripe for picking. Seed harvesting should be done on a dry and sunny day. Once seedpods have changed from green to brown and can be easily split, you can begin collecting flower seeds. Many people choose to gather seeds while deadheading plants in the garden.
Always harvest seeds from your best-performing plants. When you’re ready for seed harvesting, you’ll need to know the best method of how to collect flower seeds. Use clean and sharp garden scissors to cut the pods or seed heads from the plant and place them in a paper collection bag. Label all of your bags so that you do not forget which seeds are which. It is important to use only paper bags, as seeds can spoil in plastic. Once you have collected your seeds, you can spread them out on a screen or a piece of newspaper and dry them at room temperature for a week.
Medicinal:
The leaves and flowers are antiphlogistic, bitter, resolvent, and stimulant. They have been employed in poultices on tumors and ulcers. It is effective in the treatment of all kinds of inflammation and is also used on hemorrhoids. The plant is harvested in the summer when in flower and is dried for later use.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Try pairing with Ammi visnaga (Toothpick Weed), Dahlia 'Karma Lagoon', Zinnia 'Profusion Series', Cotinus coggygria (Smokebush), Phygelius (Cape Fuchsia), Coreopsis 'Mercury Rising', Rudbeckia Hirta, Cosmos Sulphureus 'Bright Lights', Echinacea purpurea, Zinnia elegans, and Cannas (Canna Lilies).
Other Uses:
A green dye is obtained from the flowers, it does not require a mordant. Dark green and gold can also be obtained if a mordant is used.
Spider Plant
How to Grow Spider Plant
Germination:
Spring Planting:
For spring planting, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 30 days before direct sowing. Keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which should occur within 30-35 days. Seeds can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring; plant the seeds on the surface of a flat, keeping the moisture consistent and the temperature around 70 degrees F.
Fall Planting:
Direct sow in late fall, planting the seed just below the surface of the soil; these seeds need light to germinate.
Crop Care:
Water the plants regularly until they become established. Mature plants tolerate heat and drought well, and should not need watering unless the soil becomes very dry. Remove the tips of the developing stems to encourage branching and bushy growth. Since this plant can become aggressive in its reseeding, deadhead spent blossoms. If aphids threaten the plants, discourage them by spraying them off with a stream of water; repeat until they have gone. This plant attracts birds, hummingbirds, and butterflies as well as deterring rabbits.
Harvesting:
Spider Plant makes a good cut flower, though the entire plant does have a unique fragrance that some find unappealing. Watch out for the thorns on the underside of the leaves and on the stems.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, the plant will produce thin 2" pods that ripen to a light brown; the ripe seed will also be light and dark brown. Remove the pods as soon as they ripen to prevent loss, since they will eventually split and release their seed. Spread out the pods away from direct sunlight to dry completely. Split the dry pods open and remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Spider Plant is an excellent companion to zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, black-eyed Susans, and dahlias.
Spring Planting:
For spring planting, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 30 days before direct sowing. Keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which should occur within 30-35 days. Seeds can also be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring; plant the seeds on the surface of a flat, keeping the moisture consistent and the temperature around 70 degrees F.
Fall Planting:
Direct sow in late fall, planting the seed just below the surface of the soil; these seeds need light to germinate.
Crop Care:
Water the plants regularly until they become established. Mature plants tolerate heat and drought well, and should not need watering unless the soil becomes very dry. Remove the tips of the developing stems to encourage branching and bushy growth. Since this plant can become aggressive in its reseeding, deadhead spent blossoms. If aphids threaten the plants, discourage them by spraying them off with a stream of water; repeat until they have gone. This plant attracts birds, hummingbirds, and butterflies as well as deterring rabbits.
Harvesting:
Spider Plant makes a good cut flower, though the entire plant does have a unique fragrance that some find unappealing. Watch out for the thorns on the underside of the leaves and on the stems.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, the plant will produce thin 2" pods that ripen to a light brown; the ripe seed will also be light and dark brown. Remove the pods as soon as they ripen to prevent loss, since they will eventually split and release their seed. Spread out the pods away from direct sunlight to dry completely. Split the dry pods open and remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Companion Planting:
Spider Plant is an excellent companion to zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, black-eyed Susans, and dahlias.
Spiderwort
How to Grow Spiderwort
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, planting just below the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 4 months before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Control weeds, since this plant does not like competition. Mature plants tolerate drought and poor soil, in addition to growing well in shallow, rocky soil and sand. This plant may self-seed and spread slowly by rhizomes and attracts bees. Mature plants can be divided.
Harvesting:
Flowers are best used fresh in salads, where they add a mild flavor and interesting texture to conventional salad greens. Stems and leaves can be used fresh or braised like asparagus, and are said to have a flavor very similar to spinach
Seed Saving:
This species will drop seeds from individual flower heads as they ripen even while the bracts remain green and other flowers in the same cluster are in bud or blooming. Species with dispersal apparatus such as awns or hairs will appear dry and fluffy at maturity.
Culinary:
Several Native American tribes used the young shoots of prairie spiderwort as a food source.
Companion Planting:
Companions for Spiderwort are Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum), Hyssop, Boneset, (Eupatorium hyssopifolium), Hollow Stem Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium fistulosum), Beardtongue, and Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia subtomentosa).
Direct sow in late fall, planting just below the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store them in the refrigerator for 4 months before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. Control weeds, since this plant does not like competition. Mature plants tolerate drought and poor soil, in addition to growing well in shallow, rocky soil and sand. This plant may self-seed and spread slowly by rhizomes and attracts bees. Mature plants can be divided.
Harvesting:
Flowers are best used fresh in salads, where they add a mild flavor and interesting texture to conventional salad greens. Stems and leaves can be used fresh or braised like asparagus, and are said to have a flavor very similar to spinach
Seed Saving:
This species will drop seeds from individual flower heads as they ripen even while the bracts remain green and other flowers in the same cluster are in bud or blooming. Species with dispersal apparatus such as awns or hairs will appear dry and fluffy at maturity.
Culinary:
Several Native American tribes used the young shoots of prairie spiderwort as a food source.
Companion Planting:
Companions for Spiderwort are Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum), Hyssop, Boneset, (Eupatorium hyssopifolium), Hollow Stem Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium fistulosum), Beardtongue, and Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia subtomentosa).
Strawflower
How to Grow Strawflower
Germination:
Direct sow seeds in early spring, pressing them into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. Keep the soil moist until germination, which usually occurs within 8-10 days. To start indoors, plant several seeds each in peat pots; keep the soil lightly moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination. Transplant the seedlings outdoors after the last chance of frost or when they can safely be handled.
Crop Care:
This plant tolerates heat and drought well, and will only need watering in extended periods of dry weather. Do not overwater, since this can cause disease. This plant adapts well to poor soil. Pinching off the tips of developing plants will encourage branching and produce fuller, bushier plants. Deadhead blossoms to extend the time of blooming. Though an annual, this plant self-seeds readily and will come back the next year if allowed.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. For long-lasting dried flowers, cut blossoms just before they fully open. Bundle the stems and hang them upside down to dry. For best results in flower arrangements, wire the stems to provide sufficient support.
Seed Saving:
As the flowers mature, they will turn a golden tan with a fluffy center; rub the center gently to remove the seeds. Harvest these seeds as soon as they ripen, since birds love to eat them. Store the cleaned seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability: 2-3 years
Companion Planting:
Dianthus and Thyme. Strawflowers close at night and in rainy weather, so they are at their best in sunny beds seen during the day. Blue ageratum or airy nigella make excellent neighbors for strawflowers.
Direct sow seeds in early spring, pressing them into the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. Keep the soil moist until germination, which usually occurs within 8-10 days. To start indoors, plant several seeds each in peat pots; keep the soil lightly moist and at a temperature of 70-75 degrees F until germination. Transplant the seedlings outdoors after the last chance of frost or when they can safely be handled.
Crop Care:
This plant tolerates heat and drought well, and will only need watering in extended periods of dry weather. Do not overwater, since this can cause disease. This plant adapts well to poor soil. Pinching off the tips of developing plants will encourage branching and produce fuller, bushier plants. Deadhead blossoms to extend the time of blooming. Though an annual, this plant self-seeds readily and will come back the next year if allowed.
Harvesting:
For fresh flowers, cut long stems of flowers that have just opened and place them in water immediately; strip the leaves that will fall below the water. For long-lasting dried flowers, cut blossoms just before they fully open. Bundle the stems and hang them upside down to dry. For best results in flower arrangements, wire the stems to provide sufficient support.
Seed Saving:
As the flowers mature, they will turn a golden tan with a fluffy center; rub the center gently to remove the seeds. Harvest these seeds as soon as they ripen, since birds love to eat them. Store the cleaned seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability: 2-3 years
Companion Planting:
Dianthus and Thyme. Strawflowers close at night and in rainy weather, so they are at their best in sunny beds seen during the day. Blue ageratum or airy nigella make excellent neighbors for strawflowers.
Sunflower
How to Grow Sunflower
Germination:
This seed should be sown directly outdoors since the long roots of this plant need space to develop and dislike being disturbed. In late spring after the soil has warmed to 70-75 degrees F, plant several seeds together 1" deep and 6" apart in rich, well-drained soil; the seeds will begin to germinate in 8-10 days. The protection of netting or a screen may be necessary to prevent birds or animals from eating the seeds as they begin to sprout and develop; keep the soil moist. Thin to the strongest seedlings.
Crop Care:
Water the seedlings occasionally as they develop. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they may need regular fertilizing for the best growth. Avoid overwatering, since this can cause disease. This plant attracts bees, butterflies, and birds.
Harvesting:
Ripening: When the seeds are ripe, the whole heads droop and the seeds are fat and plump. Sample a few to see if they are fully ripe.
When and How: Seed Pods, 1-14 days after maturity
When: When the seeds are ripe the whole heads droop and the seeds are fat and plump. Sample a few to see if they are fully ripe. Once ripe, harvest immediately before the birds and squirrels harvest all your seed.
How: The easiest way to harvest the seeds is to cut off the whole heads. Dry them in the sun and then rub the heads against a screen (or against each other) to free the seeds.
Storage:
Dry the seeds carefully if you want to store them for any length of time. If they are not fully dry they will mold.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Sunflowers are cross-pollinated by insects, so you can only save the seed from one variety at a time (they will also cross with wild plants). Gathering the seed is easy, except for the fact that birds and squirrels will take every full kernel if you don't protect them.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Culinary:
Cooking: The raw or roasted kernels can be used just like nuts, eaten out of hand, in baked goods, granola, and trail mix. Native Americans often ground the whole seed to meal for baking bread and thickening soups. You can make nut butter with them.
Edible oil: Modern varieties of seed may contain up to 60% oil. This can be extracted by pressing the crushed seeds, or you can do as Native Americans used to. They boiled the kernels in water and skimmed the edible oil off from the surface.
Sprouts: The raw whole seed can be sprouted like Alfalfa. Don't let the sprouts get too big or they may develop an acrid taste.
Eating Sunflower seeds: If you are to grow Sunflowers for their edible seeds, you really need to learn how to eat them. Start by putting a seed vertically between your molars (chewing teeth) so the seed holds in the indentations. Crack the seed gently, then use your tongue to separate the smooth seed from the rough shell. Finally, you spit out the shell. This is harder to do than it is to describe and it takes quite a bit of practice to get it down smoothly. Eventually, you can have a store of seeds in one cheek, crack them on the other side of your mouth and spit out the shells in a continuous stream.
Medicinal:
The sunflower was used for food in Mexico and had reputed medicinal value in soothing chest pains.
Francisco Hernandez, an early Spanish explorer, ascribed aphrodisiac powers to the sunflower. Charles H. Lange, an anthropologist at the University of Texas, wrote that “among the Cochiti, a reliable ‘home remedy’ for cuts and other wounds is the juice of freshly crushed sunflower stems. The juice is smeared liberally over the wounds, bandaged, and invariably results in a speedy recovery, with never a case of infection”.
According to Moerman (1986), sunflowers were used in the following ways:
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Shade-Loving Edibles:
Thanks to their enormous size, sunflowers cast quite a shadow. In the middle of the day, when sunlight is most intense, it can bake and burn vegetable plants, but growing those plant under sunflowers' giant blossoms provides them with much-needed shade. Cucumbers and lettuce, for instance, can be grown beneath sunflowers to take advantage of the shelter they offer. Melons also need protection from the sun's harsh rays and grow well beneath sunflowers.
Same-Soil Companions:
Some plants grow well together because they thrive in the same type of soil. Numerous bush bean varieties, such as wax, lima, and green beans, are good sunflower companions for that reason. All of these plants are well-suited to acidic soil, with a pH level ranging from 6.5 to 7.5. Because bush beans provide their own nitrogen and don't require heavy amounts of nutrients, they don't compete with sunflowers for food, preventing the two kinds of plants from harming one another.
Aphid-Affected Plants:
Though they are tiny, aphids are a serious problem for many plants, including flowers and vegetables. With their sharp, piercing mouths, aphids drain plants of their fluids can destroy entire gardens. Aphids also like to attack sunflowers, but they do little damage because of the sunflowers' thick stalks and overall toughness. If other plants suffer from an aphid infestation, plant a few sunflowers to act as distracting decoys.
Trellis-Needing Plants:
Many plants, particularly those with long, winding vines, need trellises to support them as they grow. Although it’s possible to erect a store-bought, metal or plastic trellis, sunflowers are a natural, beautiful alternative. Vine cucumber and corn plants need support as they mature and can be trained to grow along sunflowers' stalks, which are strong enough to handle the other plants' weight.
This seed should be sown directly outdoors since the long roots of this plant need space to develop and dislike being disturbed. In late spring after the soil has warmed to 70-75 degrees F, plant several seeds together 1" deep and 6" apart in rich, well-drained soil; the seeds will begin to germinate in 8-10 days. The protection of netting or a screen may be necessary to prevent birds or animals from eating the seeds as they begin to sprout and develop; keep the soil moist. Thin to the strongest seedlings.
Crop Care:
Water the seedlings occasionally as they develop. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they may need regular fertilizing for the best growth. Avoid overwatering, since this can cause disease. This plant attracts bees, butterflies, and birds.
Harvesting:
Ripening: When the seeds are ripe, the whole heads droop and the seeds are fat and plump. Sample a few to see if they are fully ripe.
When and How: Seed Pods, 1-14 days after maturity
When: When the seeds are ripe the whole heads droop and the seeds are fat and plump. Sample a few to see if they are fully ripe. Once ripe, harvest immediately before the birds and squirrels harvest all your seed.
How: The easiest way to harvest the seeds is to cut off the whole heads. Dry them in the sun and then rub the heads against a screen (or against each other) to free the seeds.
Storage:
Dry the seeds carefully if you want to store them for any length of time. If they are not fully dry they will mold.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Sunflowers are cross-pollinated by insects, so you can only save the seed from one variety at a time (they will also cross with wild plants). Gathering the seed is easy, except for the fact that birds and squirrels will take every full kernel if you don't protect them.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Culinary:
Cooking: The raw or roasted kernels can be used just like nuts, eaten out of hand, in baked goods, granola, and trail mix. Native Americans often ground the whole seed to meal for baking bread and thickening soups. You can make nut butter with them.
Edible oil: Modern varieties of seed may contain up to 60% oil. This can be extracted by pressing the crushed seeds, or you can do as Native Americans used to. They boiled the kernels in water and skimmed the edible oil off from the surface.
Sprouts: The raw whole seed can be sprouted like Alfalfa. Don't let the sprouts get too big or they may develop an acrid taste.
Eating Sunflower seeds: If you are to grow Sunflowers for their edible seeds, you really need to learn how to eat them. Start by putting a seed vertically between your molars (chewing teeth) so the seed holds in the indentations. Crack the seed gently, then use your tongue to separate the smooth seed from the rough shell. Finally, you spit out the shell. This is harder to do than it is to describe and it takes quite a bit of practice to get it down smoothly. Eventually, you can have a store of seeds in one cheek, crack them on the other side of your mouth and spit out the shells in a continuous stream.
Medicinal:
The sunflower was used for food in Mexico and had reputed medicinal value in soothing chest pains.
Francisco Hernandez, an early Spanish explorer, ascribed aphrodisiac powers to the sunflower. Charles H. Lange, an anthropologist at the University of Texas, wrote that “among the Cochiti, a reliable ‘home remedy’ for cuts and other wounds is the juice of freshly crushed sunflower stems. The juice is smeared liberally over the wounds, bandaged, and invariably results in a speedy recovery, with never a case of infection”.
According to Moerman (1986), sunflowers were used in the following ways:
- The Cherokee used an infusion of sunflower leaves to treat kidneys.
- The Dakota used an infusion of sunflowers for chest pains and pulmonary troubles.
- The Gros Ventres, Rees, and Mandan used sunflowers ceremonially; oil from the seeds was used to lubricate or paint the face and body.
- The Gros Ventres, Mandan, Rees, and Hidatsa used sunflower seeds as a stimulant, taken on a war party or hunt to alleviate fatigue.
- The Hopi used the sunflower plant as a “spider medicine” and dermatological aid.
- The Navajo ate sunflower seeds to stimulate the appetite.
- The Navaho-Kayenta used the plant for the sun sand painting ceremony and as a disinfectant to prevent prenatal infections caused by the solar eclipse.
- The Navaho-Ramah used a salve of pulverized seed and root to prevent injury from a horse falling on a person and as a moxa of the pith to remove warts.
- The Paiute used a decoction of sunflower root to alleviate rheumatism.
- Pawnee women ate a dry seed concoction to protect suckling children.
- The Pima applied a poultice of warm ashes to the stomach for worms and used a decoction of leaves for high fevers and as a wash for horses’ sores caused by screwworms.
- The Thompson Indians used powdered sunflower leaves alone or in an ointment on sores and swellings.
- The Zuni used a poultice of sunflower root to treat snakebite, along with much ritual and ceremony.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Shade-Loving Edibles:
Thanks to their enormous size, sunflowers cast quite a shadow. In the middle of the day, when sunlight is most intense, it can bake and burn vegetable plants, but growing those plant under sunflowers' giant blossoms provides them with much-needed shade. Cucumbers and lettuce, for instance, can be grown beneath sunflowers to take advantage of the shelter they offer. Melons also need protection from the sun's harsh rays and grow well beneath sunflowers.
Same-Soil Companions:
Some plants grow well together because they thrive in the same type of soil. Numerous bush bean varieties, such as wax, lima, and green beans, are good sunflower companions for that reason. All of these plants are well-suited to acidic soil, with a pH level ranging from 6.5 to 7.5. Because bush beans provide their own nitrogen and don't require heavy amounts of nutrients, they don't compete with sunflowers for food, preventing the two kinds of plants from harming one another.
Aphid-Affected Plants:
Though they are tiny, aphids are a serious problem for many plants, including flowers and vegetables. With their sharp, piercing mouths, aphids drain plants of their fluids can destroy entire gardens. Aphids also like to attack sunflowers, but they do little damage because of the sunflowers' thick stalks and overall toughness. If other plants suffer from an aphid infestation, plant a few sunflowers to act as distracting decoys.
Trellis-Needing Plants:
Many plants, particularly those with long, winding vines, need trellises to support them as they grow. Although it’s possible to erect a store-bought, metal or plastic trellis, sunflowers are a natural, beautiful alternative. Vine cucumber and corn plants need support as they mature and can be trained to grow along sunflowers' stalks, which are strong enough to handle the other plants' weight.
Sweet Williams
How to Grow Sweet Williams
Germination:
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little additional medium over seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
When: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
Temperature: 60F
Average Germ Time: 14-20 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Just below the soil surface, cover lightly.
Moisture: Keep soil slightly moist
Soil: Well-drained, fertile, loamy with a pH between 6.0-8.0. Optimal: 6.7
Transplant your seedlings into your garden after the last frost date in an area that offers dry or rocky soils at a spacing of 12-18" apart. Water seedlings until they become established; mature plants are drought-tolerant and will only need watering in exceptionally dry periods.
For directly sowing seeds outdoors, wait until the danger of frost is over, and directly sow the flower seed into prepared beds. Lightly cover and keep seeds moist. Expect them to last a long time in the garden even in the worst summer heat and up to 2 weeks in the vase if you prefer to enjoy this flower indoors.
Crop Care:
This plant usually develops a rosette of leaves in its first season and a flowering stalk in the second summer, though it may bloom in the first year if started early enough.
Water Needs: A deep watering once weekly is sufficient, but twice weekly watering is often necessary during periods of intense summer heat and drought. Water the soil around the plant rather than spraying the water directly on the leaves and crown to help prevent problems with crown rot.
Fertilization Needs: Fertilize once every two-to-four weeks to boost plant growth, if desired. Organic fertilizers include compost mulch, fish emulsion, blood meal, and bone meal.
Pruning: Deadhead the faded blossoms for prolonged blooming.
Dividing & Transplanting: After 2 years of growth, divide the plant for healthy growth.
Containment: This plant readily reseeds itself, but volunteer seedlings can easily be removed if not wanted.
Harvesting:
For fresh-cut flowers, you should harvest the long stems of flowers that have recently opened. Then place the cuttings in water immediately and strip away the leaves that will fall below the water line. For dried flowers, harvest flowers that have recently opened and dry them whole or on the stem.
Seed Saving:
When the blossoms mature and produce seed pods, they will dry and turn brown. Split the pods open on the top and then turn them upside down and shake the pods over a container to remove the seeds. The seeds should look like tiny black discs. Store your harvested seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
The flowers have a mild flavor and are used as a garnish for vegetable and fruit salads, cakes, desserts, cold drinks, etc.
Companion Planting:
Annuals: Geraniums, Petunias, Pansies, Verbena, Snapdragons, Salvia (may be either annual or perennial), Bachelor’s button, Sweet Pea, and Zinnia.
Perennials: Lamb’s ear, Lavender, Roses, Poppies (some are annuals), Coreopsis, Hollyhocks, Hyssop, Delphiniums, and Dicentra (Bleeding heart).
Shrubs: Lilac, Viburnum, Forsythia, Spirea, and Beautyberry.
Certain seeds benefit from being grown indoors in containers, such as those that need extra warmth to sprout or grow well, annuals that need a long growing season to bloom well, perennials that may bloom the first summer if given a head start, and summer sowings of perennial seeds.
Fill a pot to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist seed starting medium.
Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
Sprinkle a little additional medium over seeds but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights.
When: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
Temperature: 60F
Average Germ Time: 14-20 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Just below the soil surface, cover lightly.
Moisture: Keep soil slightly moist
Soil: Well-drained, fertile, loamy with a pH between 6.0-8.0. Optimal: 6.7
Transplant your seedlings into your garden after the last frost date in an area that offers dry or rocky soils at a spacing of 12-18" apart. Water seedlings until they become established; mature plants are drought-tolerant and will only need watering in exceptionally dry periods.
For directly sowing seeds outdoors, wait until the danger of frost is over, and directly sow the flower seed into prepared beds. Lightly cover and keep seeds moist. Expect them to last a long time in the garden even in the worst summer heat and up to 2 weeks in the vase if you prefer to enjoy this flower indoors.
Crop Care:
This plant usually develops a rosette of leaves in its first season and a flowering stalk in the second summer, though it may bloom in the first year if started early enough.
Water Needs: A deep watering once weekly is sufficient, but twice weekly watering is often necessary during periods of intense summer heat and drought. Water the soil around the plant rather than spraying the water directly on the leaves and crown to help prevent problems with crown rot.
Fertilization Needs: Fertilize once every two-to-four weeks to boost plant growth, if desired. Organic fertilizers include compost mulch, fish emulsion, blood meal, and bone meal.
Pruning: Deadhead the faded blossoms for prolonged blooming.
Dividing & Transplanting: After 2 years of growth, divide the plant for healthy growth.
Containment: This plant readily reseeds itself, but volunteer seedlings can easily be removed if not wanted.
Harvesting:
For fresh-cut flowers, you should harvest the long stems of flowers that have recently opened. Then place the cuttings in water immediately and strip away the leaves that will fall below the water line. For dried flowers, harvest flowers that have recently opened and dry them whole or on the stem.
Seed Saving:
When the blossoms mature and produce seed pods, they will dry and turn brown. Split the pods open on the top and then turn them upside down and shake the pods over a container to remove the seeds. The seeds should look like tiny black discs. Store your harvested seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
The flowers have a mild flavor and are used as a garnish for vegetable and fruit salads, cakes, desserts, cold drinks, etc.
Companion Planting:
Annuals: Geraniums, Petunias, Pansies, Verbena, Snapdragons, Salvia (may be either annual or perennial), Bachelor’s button, Sweet Pea, and Zinnia.
Perennials: Lamb’s ear, Lavender, Roses, Poppies (some are annuals), Coreopsis, Hollyhocks, Hyssop, Delphiniums, and Dicentra (Bleeding heart).
Shrubs: Lilac, Viburnum, Forsythia, Spirea, and Beautyberry.
Tobacco
How to Grow Tobacco
Germination:
Only the Lonely is easily grown from Seed and best sown indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date but may be sown directly in the garden after last frost. Simply sow the seeds on the surface of consistently moist, organically rich, well-drained soil.
Crop Care:
Set out seedlings after the last frost date 18-24" apart. Only the Lonely blooms summer to fall in cool summer climates, but may fade somewhat in the heat of summer. Deadhead flower stalks of spent clusters to promote additional bloom. Do not site these plants near vegetable gardens with other nightshade family members (e.g., eggplant, tomato, potato, or peppers) because of susceptibility to and possible transmission of common viruses. May self-seed in optimum growing conditions. When growing in windy areas or unsupported by other plants, these tall plants may need staking.
Harvesting:
Each flower has a long tube with a flared, star-shaped end. The flower clusters can be cut to use in fresh flower arrangements.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers have been pollinated they will turn brown and shrivel leaving the seed pod remaining on the stem. The ripened seed pods are brown and open at the end when the seeds are ready to be broadcasted. At this point, you can just tap a Nicotiana seed pod and the seeds will easily spill into the palm of your hand, seed envelope, or a piece of paper. A single plant can yield a few thousand of the small, brown seeds. To save and store the seeds, spread them out on a piece of paper in a cool dry location for a couple of days to allow them to dry before storing them in seed envelopes for the following year.
Copious amounts of tiny seeds are produced from each pollinated flower, held in a rounded capsule surrounded by the persistent calyx. The very small brown seeds are ovoid to kidney-hornwormsshaped. This species self-seeds readily, but the seedlings are easy to identify and pull if unwanted, so volunteers are not a big problem in gardens in cold climates, but it can be problematic in other areas where it can naturalize in open, disturbed areas.
Companion Planting:
Use flowering tobacco in masses at the back of the annual or mixed border as a stunning backdrop for smaller plants, as a tall accent plant, or in a large mixed container. Its bold architectural presence complements almost any garden style from tropical to traditional. It is right at home in the cottage garden, and is a natural for a moon garden. Position the plants where their delightful fragrance can be appreciated in the evening.
Combine them with other tall, late-summer bloomers such as cleome, cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Verbena bonariensis, late-blooming shrub roses, and ornamental grasses, or use them to fill in gaps left by spring bulbs or spring blooming perennials that go dormant later on, such as Oriental poppy (Papaver orientalis). Their large leaves provide coarse texture that contrasts well with other plants with small leaves or fine texture.
Problems:
Tobacco has some pests, including aphids and tobacco hornworm, as well as a few diseases, but these generally are not serious.
Do not site these plants near vegetable gardens with other nightshade family members (eggplant, tomato, potato, or peppers) because of susceptibility to and possible transmission of common viruses.
Only the Lonely is easily grown from Seed and best sown indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date but may be sown directly in the garden after last frost. Simply sow the seeds on the surface of consistently moist, organically rich, well-drained soil.
Crop Care:
Set out seedlings after the last frost date 18-24" apart. Only the Lonely blooms summer to fall in cool summer climates, but may fade somewhat in the heat of summer. Deadhead flower stalks of spent clusters to promote additional bloom. Do not site these plants near vegetable gardens with other nightshade family members (e.g., eggplant, tomato, potato, or peppers) because of susceptibility to and possible transmission of common viruses. May self-seed in optimum growing conditions. When growing in windy areas or unsupported by other plants, these tall plants may need staking.
Harvesting:
Each flower has a long tube with a flared, star-shaped end. The flower clusters can be cut to use in fresh flower arrangements.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers have been pollinated they will turn brown and shrivel leaving the seed pod remaining on the stem. The ripened seed pods are brown and open at the end when the seeds are ready to be broadcasted. At this point, you can just tap a Nicotiana seed pod and the seeds will easily spill into the palm of your hand, seed envelope, or a piece of paper. A single plant can yield a few thousand of the small, brown seeds. To save and store the seeds, spread them out on a piece of paper in a cool dry location for a couple of days to allow them to dry before storing them in seed envelopes for the following year.
Copious amounts of tiny seeds are produced from each pollinated flower, held in a rounded capsule surrounded by the persistent calyx. The very small brown seeds are ovoid to kidney-hornwormsshaped. This species self-seeds readily, but the seedlings are easy to identify and pull if unwanted, so volunteers are not a big problem in gardens in cold climates, but it can be problematic in other areas where it can naturalize in open, disturbed areas.
Companion Planting:
Use flowering tobacco in masses at the back of the annual or mixed border as a stunning backdrop for smaller plants, as a tall accent plant, or in a large mixed container. Its bold architectural presence complements almost any garden style from tropical to traditional. It is right at home in the cottage garden, and is a natural for a moon garden. Position the plants where their delightful fragrance can be appreciated in the evening.
Combine them with other tall, late-summer bloomers such as cleome, cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Verbena bonariensis, late-blooming shrub roses, and ornamental grasses, or use them to fill in gaps left by spring bulbs or spring blooming perennials that go dormant later on, such as Oriental poppy (Papaver orientalis). Their large leaves provide coarse texture that contrasts well with other plants with small leaves or fine texture.
Problems:
Tobacco has some pests, including aphids and tobacco hornworm, as well as a few diseases, but these generally are not serious.
Do not site these plants near vegetable gardens with other nightshade family members (eggplant, tomato, potato, or peppers) because of susceptibility to and possible transmission of common viruses.
Winged Everlasting
How to Grow Winged Everlasting
Germination:
Start your seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Sow your seeds in containers and lightly cover them with 1/16" of soil. Keep the soil lightly moist and at a temperature of 65-70°F. Germination should occur in 5-20 days.
Transplant outdoors after your last frost date in a sunny location that offers well drained, fertile soil. Space your transplants 10 to 16 inches apart.
Direct sow your seeds in early spring or early fall. Sow your seeds in a sunny location in well drained, fertile soil and lightly cover them with 1/16" of soil. Keep the soil lightly moist.
Crop Care:
Water during prolonged dry periods. Liquid feed every couple of weeks. Do not let the soil get over wet.
Harvesting:
Whether you are harvesting dried or cut flowers, it is best to harvest Winged Everlasting before the blooms fully open because their blooms will continue to open even after you cut them. Now simply hang them somewhere to dry warm, well-ventilated areaor place your cut flowers in water.
Companion Planting:
Winged Everlasting companions are: Stokesia laevis, Chrysopsis mariana, and Antirrhinum majus.
Start your seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Sow your seeds in containers and lightly cover them with 1/16" of soil. Keep the soil lightly moist and at a temperature of 65-70°F. Germination should occur in 5-20 days.
Transplant outdoors after your last frost date in a sunny location that offers well drained, fertile soil. Space your transplants 10 to 16 inches apart.
Direct sow your seeds in early spring or early fall. Sow your seeds in a sunny location in well drained, fertile soil and lightly cover them with 1/16" of soil. Keep the soil lightly moist.
Crop Care:
Water during prolonged dry periods. Liquid feed every couple of weeks. Do not let the soil get over wet.
Harvesting:
Whether you are harvesting dried or cut flowers, it is best to harvest Winged Everlasting before the blooms fully open because their blooms will continue to open even after you cut them. Now simply hang them somewhere to dry warm, well-ventilated areaor place your cut flowers in water.
Companion Planting:
Winged Everlasting companions are: Stokesia laevis, Chrysopsis mariana, and Antirrhinum majus.
Zinnia
How to Grow Zinnia
Germination:
For early flowers, start indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frosts are expected. Use trays or pots and a good sowing compost. Seeds should be spaced at least 1" apart. The seeds need light to germinate, so slightly cover the seeds with a sprinkling of fine soil. Seeds will germinate in 7-14 days. Keep soil moderately moist during germination. When plants are 1-2" in height, transplant them to 3" pots. Zinnias are sensitive to root disturbance, so be especially careful when transplanting.
Gradually acclimatize indoor started seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and weather has warmed considerably. Plant out 25 to 10-12" apart. Add garden compost to the soil if it is heavy or infertile.
Sow seeds where the plants are to be grown in spring after the last frost, and in an area with full sun. Zinnia prefers fertile, rich, and well-drained soil, average soil is acceptable, but if you add compost and all-purpose fertilizer before sowing, the blooms will be lusher. Sow seeds 5 to 7cm (2 to 3") apart in rows 30cm (12") apart. Barely cover seeds with soil; they need light to germinate. Keep soil moist until seeds germinate, in 5 to 10 days. When 5cm (2") tall thin the seedlings to 25 to 30cm (10 to 12") apart.
Crop Care:
They will reward you with hundreds of colorful flowers for just a little care. If you are growing some of the older, heirloom varieties of zinnias, a little pinching back in early summer will make them bushier and produce side branches with more flowers. There is typically little problem growing zinnias, except in extremely humid conditions where a powdery mildew can sometimes form. Protect young plants from slugs and snails. Deadhead spent flowers frequently to prolong flowering. Water regularly. Water deeply by soaking soil and avoid spraying foliage.
Seed Saving:
Saving seeds of zinnia saving could not be easier, you not only get the colors you want, but you can also select seeds from the healthiest plants. Do this, and in a couple of generations of seeds, you will have developed your own strain of zinnias selected to perform well in your conditions. In late summer let some zinnias go to seed. The seeds are easy to collect and store for next year. Wait until they are fully dry on the plant, then clean out the old petals and store them at room temperature.
Companion Planting:
Pretty Zinnias attract hummingbirds which eat whiteflies. Whiteflies are commonly found on some vegetable plants such as beans, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, okra, potato, tomato, squash, and sweet potato. Alternately the pastel varieties of zinnias can be used as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles commonly are found on host plants such as: Acer (maples), Asparagus officinalis (asparagus), Glycine max (soybean), Malus (ornamental species apple), Prunus (stone fruit including plums, peaches, etc), Rheum hybridum (rhubarb), Rosa (roses), Rubus (blackberry, raspberry), Tilia (limes), Ulmus (elms), Vitis (grapes), Zea mays (corn). All zinnias attract bees and other insect pollinators.
For early flowers, start indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frosts are expected. Use trays or pots and a good sowing compost. Seeds should be spaced at least 1" apart. The seeds need light to germinate, so slightly cover the seeds with a sprinkling of fine soil. Seeds will germinate in 7-14 days. Keep soil moderately moist during germination. When plants are 1-2" in height, transplant them to 3" pots. Zinnias are sensitive to root disturbance, so be especially careful when transplanting.
Gradually acclimatize indoor started seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and weather has warmed considerably. Plant out 25 to 10-12" apart. Add garden compost to the soil if it is heavy or infertile.
Sow seeds where the plants are to be grown in spring after the last frost, and in an area with full sun. Zinnia prefers fertile, rich, and well-drained soil, average soil is acceptable, but if you add compost and all-purpose fertilizer before sowing, the blooms will be lusher. Sow seeds 5 to 7cm (2 to 3") apart in rows 30cm (12") apart. Barely cover seeds with soil; they need light to germinate. Keep soil moist until seeds germinate, in 5 to 10 days. When 5cm (2") tall thin the seedlings to 25 to 30cm (10 to 12") apart.
Crop Care:
They will reward you with hundreds of colorful flowers for just a little care. If you are growing some of the older, heirloom varieties of zinnias, a little pinching back in early summer will make them bushier and produce side branches with more flowers. There is typically little problem growing zinnias, except in extremely humid conditions where a powdery mildew can sometimes form. Protect young plants from slugs and snails. Deadhead spent flowers frequently to prolong flowering. Water regularly. Water deeply by soaking soil and avoid spraying foliage.
Seed Saving:
Saving seeds of zinnia saving could not be easier, you not only get the colors you want, but you can also select seeds from the healthiest plants. Do this, and in a couple of generations of seeds, you will have developed your own strain of zinnias selected to perform well in your conditions. In late summer let some zinnias go to seed. The seeds are easy to collect and store for next year. Wait until they are fully dry on the plant, then clean out the old petals and store them at room temperature.
Companion Planting:
Pretty Zinnias attract hummingbirds which eat whiteflies. Whiteflies are commonly found on some vegetable plants such as beans, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, okra, potato, tomato, squash, and sweet potato. Alternately the pastel varieties of zinnias can be used as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles commonly are found on host plants such as: Acer (maples), Asparagus officinalis (asparagus), Glycine max (soybean), Malus (ornamental species apple), Prunus (stone fruit including plums, peaches, etc), Rheum hybridum (rhubarb), Rosa (roses), Rubus (blackberry, raspberry), Tilia (limes), Ulmus (elms), Vitis (grapes), Zea mays (corn). All zinnias attract bees and other insect pollinators.
Fruit
Strawberry
How to Grow Strawberry
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125". Sow seeds about 1/8" deep.
Soil temp for germination: optimal 60°F to 70°F
Replant: When your Strawberry plants have several sets of leaves, transplant them 3" apart into a deeper container or individual pots so roots have room to develop. Be careful not to break the delicate roots of the seedlings.
Harden Off: When seedlings are 3" tall, gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions by placing them outdoors for longer periods each day for at least a week.
Transplant Outdoors:
The day-neutral types produce good crops in their first year and in mild winter areas, they are best planted in the Fall. This won't work in harsher climates, as hard frost can injure the young plants (a thick mulch can be used to protect the plants from milder frosts).
Each plant will go in its own individual hole, which should be just a little bigger than the spread of the roots. The roots should be separated and spread out around the hole (you can make a little cone of soil at the bottom of the hole and spread the roots over this). Never plant with the roots in one matted clump.
The plants must be planted at the same depth, keeping the crown of the plant level with the soil surface. If it is too deep it may rot, if too high it may dry out.
After planting you should firm the soil and give the plants a healthy watering.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Strawberries love sunshine. They will tolerate moderate shade, but they produce significantly better when they are planted in an area that receives full daytime sun. Plants will tolerate frost but should be protected before.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 85°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F
Spacing: 16". 1 plant per sq ft.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Most berries will be produced on plants that grew the previous year, so you want to keep them multiplying and growing vigorously. Once the bed is established it can be fairly low maintenance with the main tasks being thinning out excess plants and harvesting.
Water Needs: Moderate. Strawberries must have a steady supply of water at all times, especially during flowering and fruiting. Water is also very important in fall when next year's flower buds are developing. If they are dry at this time it can affect the following year's crop. The plants should receive at least 1" of water per week, though of course, the exact quantity needed will depend upon the growing conditions. Drip irrigation works best as it keeps leaves and fruit dry, which reduces the potential for serious fungus and disease problems.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Strawberries are fairly hungry plants and should be given plenty of nutrients (especially phosphorus and potassium) for maximum fruit production.
Protecting: Mulch, 4 inches, 1 time. In areas with severe winters, you may want to protect your dormant plants (and their precious flower buds) by covering with a thick covering (4" minimum) of loose (straw, hay, or pine needle) mulch. Wait until it gets really cold (below 20˚ F) before applying and remove in early spring so the soil can warm up. When applying mulch, make sure to leave 1' of space around the strawberry crowns to prevent damping.
Side Dressing: Mulch, 3 inches, 1 time. Mulch is very helpful when growing strawberries since it suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, keeps the soil cool, and supplies nutrients, but also keeps the fruit from contact with the soil (which can increase the chances of it rotting). A 3" layer of straw is the most common mulch (not hay which is full of weed seeds), but Pine needles also work well (and help to keep the soil acidic). When applying mulch, make sure to leave 1" of space around the strawberry crowns to prevent damping. Mulch can sometimes be detrimental to growing strawberries in areas with lots of slugs and snails since it provides a perfect habitat for them.
Thinning: 1 time a month. Once the plants have established themselves they will start to produce runners. This is good because they will increase the number of fruiting plants and will fill in the bed completely. The first runners of the year will grow into good-sized plants by the end of the summer and produce fruit the following spring. You can direct the runners to any suitable vacant spot and let them root (there is no need to detach them from the mother plant). Don’t let any more than 5 plants per sq ft get established though as they will get too crowded and start to compete with each other. Start pinching out excess runners ruthlessly (or allow them to root themselves and then remove them). Don’t worry about overdoing it as they tend to produce runners whenever conditions suit them (they can always produce more).
Watering: Water, 0.5 inches, 2 times a week. Strawberries must have a steady supply of water at all times, especially during flowering and fruit production. Water is also very important in fall when next year's flower buds are developing (if they are dry at this time it can affect the following year's crop). The plants should receive at least I” of water per week, though of course, the exact quantity needed will depend upon the growing conditions. It is especially important to provide adequate water during the fruit-forming stage. Drip irrigation works best as it keeps leaves and fruit dry, which reduces the potential for serious fungus disease problems. If this isn't possible you should water your plants in the morning, allowing the leaves plenty of time to dry before nightfall.
Weeding: every 4 weeks. Keeping weeds from competing with your strawberry plants is very important since weeds can reduce fruit production in future years. The newly planted bed will be quite sparse initially and all that bare soil will be an invitation to weeds. You must weed regularly at this time. Once the plants get going they will cover the soil pretty thoroughly and weeds become less of a problem (though you should still weed occasionally). The best way to minimize weed problems is to use mulch.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Pick and enjoy these delightful petite perfumed berries when they are about the size of your thumbnail and give slightly to the touch.
Storage:
Refrigerator: Strawberries can last up to 4 days if properly stored in the refrigerator. The ideal storage temperature for strawberries is colder than for most crops, only 36 degrees. (with 95% humidity.
The beneficial antioxidants in the berries start to break down after a couple of days. Ideally, they should be eaten immediately.
It is best not to wash organically grown strawberries before storing them. If you do choose to wash your berries, make sure they are completely dry before storing them in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 0-4 days
Strawberries can be turned into jam or canned whole, although the latter is not the preferred method.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Strawberries will last anywhere from 8 -12 months when frozen. Wash and dry your strawberries before freezing and place them in a freezer bag. They turn to mush when defrosted, but are still good for smoothies, etc.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Seed saving from modern Strawberry hybrids is not generally recommended, as they are unreliable due to crossbreeding, and likely will not produce a true plant.
Instead, most gardeners propagate plants by either plant division or starting daughter plants from the runners off of the mother plant.
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet and juicy.
Culinary Use:
Fruit: raw, cooked, or made into preserves. Sweet and succulent. An exquisite flavor but the fruits are usually very small and fiddly, though they can be up to 10mm in diameter. Rich in iron and potassium, the fruit is an excellent addition to the diet of people suffering from anemia.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. Added to salads or used as a potherb. The fresh or dried leaves are used as a tea substitute. A delicious drink, it is ideal for children.
Root: The root has been used as a coffee substitute in India.
Medicinal:
The leaves and the fruit are mildly astringent, diuretic, laxative, and tonic. The leaves are mainly used, though the fruits are an excellent food to take when feverish and are also effective in treating rheumatic gout. A slice of strawberry is also excellent when applied externally to sunburnt skin. Tea made from the leaves is a blood tonic and has been used as a treatment for diarrhea in adults and children. It is used in the treatment of chilblains and also as an external wash on sunburn. A poultice can be made from the powdered leaves mixed in oil, it is used to treat open sores. The leaves are harvested in the summer and dried for later use. The fruits contain salicylic acid and are beneficial in the treatment of liver and kidney complaints, as well as in the treatment of rheumatism and gout. The roots are astringent and diuretic. A decoction is used internally in the treatment of diarrhea and chronic dysentery. Externally it is used to treat chilblains and as a throat gargle. The roots are harvested in the autumn and dried for later use.
Known Hazards: None known
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions for strawberries are: thyme, borage, lettuces, onions, and spinach.
Problems:
The fruit is used as a tooth cleaner. The fresh fruit removes stains from teeth if it is allowed to remain for about 5 minutes. The fruit is also used cosmetically in skin-care creams. It tones and whitens the skin, combats wrinkles, lightens freckles, soothes sunburn, and whitens the teeth.
Start Outdoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125". Sow seeds about 1/8" deep.
Soil temp for germination: optimal 60°F to 70°F
Replant: When your Strawberry plants have several sets of leaves, transplant them 3" apart into a deeper container or individual pots so roots have room to develop. Be careful not to break the delicate roots of the seedlings.
Harden Off: When seedlings are 3" tall, gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions by placing them outdoors for longer periods each day for at least a week.
Transplant Outdoors:
The day-neutral types produce good crops in their first year and in mild winter areas, they are best planted in the Fall. This won't work in harsher climates, as hard frost can injure the young plants (a thick mulch can be used to protect the plants from milder frosts).
Each plant will go in its own individual hole, which should be just a little bigger than the spread of the roots. The roots should be separated and spread out around the hole (you can make a little cone of soil at the bottom of the hole and spread the roots over this). Never plant with the roots in one matted clump.
The plants must be planted at the same depth, keeping the crown of the plant level with the soil surface. If it is too deep it may rot, if too high it may dry out.
After planting you should firm the soil and give the plants a healthy watering.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Strawberries love sunshine. They will tolerate moderate shade, but they produce significantly better when they are planted in an area that receives full daytime sun. Plants will tolerate frost but should be protected before.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 85°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F
Spacing: 16". 1 plant per sq ft.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Most berries will be produced on plants that grew the previous year, so you want to keep them multiplying and growing vigorously. Once the bed is established it can be fairly low maintenance with the main tasks being thinning out excess plants and harvesting.
Water Needs: Moderate. Strawberries must have a steady supply of water at all times, especially during flowering and fruiting. Water is also very important in fall when next year's flower buds are developing. If they are dry at this time it can affect the following year's crop. The plants should receive at least 1" of water per week, though of course, the exact quantity needed will depend upon the growing conditions. Drip irrigation works best as it keeps leaves and fruit dry, which reduces the potential for serious fungus and disease problems.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Strawberries are fairly hungry plants and should be given plenty of nutrients (especially phosphorus and potassium) for maximum fruit production.
Protecting: Mulch, 4 inches, 1 time. In areas with severe winters, you may want to protect your dormant plants (and their precious flower buds) by covering with a thick covering (4" minimum) of loose (straw, hay, or pine needle) mulch. Wait until it gets really cold (below 20˚ F) before applying and remove in early spring so the soil can warm up. When applying mulch, make sure to leave 1' of space around the strawberry crowns to prevent damping.
Side Dressing: Mulch, 3 inches, 1 time. Mulch is very helpful when growing strawberries since it suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, keeps the soil cool, and supplies nutrients, but also keeps the fruit from contact with the soil (which can increase the chances of it rotting). A 3" layer of straw is the most common mulch (not hay which is full of weed seeds), but Pine needles also work well (and help to keep the soil acidic). When applying mulch, make sure to leave 1" of space around the strawberry crowns to prevent damping. Mulch can sometimes be detrimental to growing strawberries in areas with lots of slugs and snails since it provides a perfect habitat for them.
Thinning: 1 time a month. Once the plants have established themselves they will start to produce runners. This is good because they will increase the number of fruiting plants and will fill in the bed completely. The first runners of the year will grow into good-sized plants by the end of the summer and produce fruit the following spring. You can direct the runners to any suitable vacant spot and let them root (there is no need to detach them from the mother plant). Don’t let any more than 5 plants per sq ft get established though as they will get too crowded and start to compete with each other. Start pinching out excess runners ruthlessly (or allow them to root themselves and then remove them). Don’t worry about overdoing it as they tend to produce runners whenever conditions suit them (they can always produce more).
Watering: Water, 0.5 inches, 2 times a week. Strawberries must have a steady supply of water at all times, especially during flowering and fruit production. Water is also very important in fall when next year's flower buds are developing (if they are dry at this time it can affect the following year's crop). The plants should receive at least I” of water per week, though of course, the exact quantity needed will depend upon the growing conditions. It is especially important to provide adequate water during the fruit-forming stage. Drip irrigation works best as it keeps leaves and fruit dry, which reduces the potential for serious fungus disease problems. If this isn't possible you should water your plants in the morning, allowing the leaves plenty of time to dry before nightfall.
Weeding: every 4 weeks. Keeping weeds from competing with your strawberry plants is very important since weeds can reduce fruit production in future years. The newly planted bed will be quite sparse initially and all that bare soil will be an invitation to weeds. You must weed regularly at this time. Once the plants get going they will cover the soil pretty thoroughly and weeds become less of a problem (though you should still weed occasionally). The best way to minimize weed problems is to use mulch.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Pick and enjoy these delightful petite perfumed berries when they are about the size of your thumbnail and give slightly to the touch.
Storage:
Refrigerator: Strawberries can last up to 4 days if properly stored in the refrigerator. The ideal storage temperature for strawberries is colder than for most crops, only 36 degrees. (with 95% humidity.
The beneficial antioxidants in the berries start to break down after a couple of days. Ideally, they should be eaten immediately.
It is best not to wash organically grown strawberries before storing them. If you do choose to wash your berries, make sure they are completely dry before storing them in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 0-4 days
Strawberries can be turned into jam or canned whole, although the latter is not the preferred method.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Strawberries will last anywhere from 8 -12 months when frozen. Wash and dry your strawberries before freezing and place them in a freezer bag. They turn to mush when defrosted, but are still good for smoothies, etc.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Seed saving from modern Strawberry hybrids is not generally recommended, as they are unreliable due to crossbreeding, and likely will not produce a true plant.
Instead, most gardeners propagate plants by either plant division or starting daughter plants from the runners off of the mother plant.
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet and juicy.
Culinary Use:
Fruit: raw, cooked, or made into preserves. Sweet and succulent. An exquisite flavor but the fruits are usually very small and fiddly, though they can be up to 10mm in diameter. Rich in iron and potassium, the fruit is an excellent addition to the diet of people suffering from anemia.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. Added to salads or used as a potherb. The fresh or dried leaves are used as a tea substitute. A delicious drink, it is ideal for children.
Root: The root has been used as a coffee substitute in India.
Medicinal:
The leaves and the fruit are mildly astringent, diuretic, laxative, and tonic. The leaves are mainly used, though the fruits are an excellent food to take when feverish and are also effective in treating rheumatic gout. A slice of strawberry is also excellent when applied externally to sunburnt skin. Tea made from the leaves is a blood tonic and has been used as a treatment for diarrhea in adults and children. It is used in the treatment of chilblains and also as an external wash on sunburn. A poultice can be made from the powdered leaves mixed in oil, it is used to treat open sores. The leaves are harvested in the summer and dried for later use. The fruits contain salicylic acid and are beneficial in the treatment of liver and kidney complaints, as well as in the treatment of rheumatism and gout. The roots are astringent and diuretic. A decoction is used internally in the treatment of diarrhea and chronic dysentery. Externally it is used to treat chilblains and as a throat gargle. The roots are harvested in the autumn and dried for later use.
Known Hazards: None known
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions for strawberries are: thyme, borage, lettuces, onions, and spinach.
Problems:
The fruit is used as a tooth cleaner. The fresh fruit removes stains from teeth if it is allowed to remain for about 5 minutes. The fruit is also used cosmetically in skin-care creams. It tones and whitens the skin, combats wrinkles, lightens freckles, soothes sunburn, and whitens the teeth.
Herbs
Angelica
How to Grow Angelica
Germination:
To break its dormancy this seed needs a period of cold moisture, a period of warm moisture, followed by another period of cold moisture. Mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 60 days, then move it to a 70-75 degrees F location for 30-60 days, followed by another 30-60 day period in the refrigerator before planting. To accomplish this naturally, simply plant the seed in late fall and wait until the second spring after planting for germination. To start the treated seed indoors, plant in trays just under the surface of the soil, since they need light to germinate. The germination rate of this seed is naturally low, and the seeds will be slow to sprout. The seedlings should be transplanted while they are small since larger plants do not tolerate transplanting well.
This plant grows best in full sun or dappled shade and moist soil, preferably near water. It reaches its full size in its second year of growth and often doesn't bloom until its third year. Though the foliage dies back in winter, it survives cold weather well. If grown for its roots, the quality and size will be improved by pruning off the flower heads; this also lengthens the life of the plant, since it dies after producing seed. This plant reproduces itself by side shoots but does not spread aggressively. Angelica attracts butterflies, especially the short-tailed swallowtail.
Harvesting:
All parts of the angelica plant are edible and can be used for culinary or medicinal purposes. The roots are at their best in the autumn of the first year, while the stems and leaves are at their best in the spring of the second year. The seeds can be used when they have ripened. When harvesting angelica in the wild, keep in mind that it strongly resembles water hemlock, a very deadly poisonous plant.
Seed Saving:
The seeds will turn from green to yellow when mature; remove the seed heads and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Rub them lightly to separate the seed from the stems. Plant the seed as soon as possible, or store it in the refrigerator for up to a year.
Culinary:
Taste:
The taste is somewhat similar to celery but is a little bit sweeter and more aromatic.
Culinary Use:
The stalks can be candied for confections and the leaves are added to cooked fruit dishes, soups, stews, fish, gratins, or poultry. The essential oil of the root and seeds has a vanilla-like flavor that is often used for liqueurs and other desserts commercially. The fruit can be used in herbal tea blends and the leaves can be blanched, boiled, and used as a garnish or eaten in salads.
Young shoots and leaf stalks: raw or cooked. When boiled in two lots of water they form a vegetable that strongly resembles celery. They can be peeled and eaten in salads or blanched and cooked like asparagus. The stems can also be candied and used as a sweetmeat.
Root, leafstalks and stems: candied.
Known hazards: All members of this genus contain furocoumarins, which increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and may cause dermatitis.
Medicinal:
A tea made from the leaves is carminative and stomachic. It is also used in the treatment of colds, rheumatism, etc. The seed and roots can also be used and have a stronger effect. The plant has similar properties to angelica, A. archangelica, though it is inferior since it is less aromatic. The root is carminative, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, sedative, stomachic, and tonic. An infusion has been used in the treatment of fevers, colds, flatulent colic, and other stomach disorders, obstructed menses, and as a general tonic for women. Externally it has been used as a gargle for sore throats and mouths and as a poultice for broken bones, swellings, etc. It has also been used, both internally and externally, as a treatment for rheumatism.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Angelica is a good companion plant for epimediums, ferns, hellebores, lily-of-the-balley, and sweet woodruff.
Enemies: Do not grow dill near Angelica.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Aphids, Leaf Miners, Spidermites, and Earwigs may appear.
To break its dormancy this seed needs a period of cold moisture, a period of warm moisture, followed by another period of cold moisture. Mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 60 days, then move it to a 70-75 degrees F location for 30-60 days, followed by another 30-60 day period in the refrigerator before planting. To accomplish this naturally, simply plant the seed in late fall and wait until the second spring after planting for germination. To start the treated seed indoors, plant in trays just under the surface of the soil, since they need light to germinate. The germination rate of this seed is naturally low, and the seeds will be slow to sprout. The seedlings should be transplanted while they are small since larger plants do not tolerate transplanting well.
This plant grows best in full sun or dappled shade and moist soil, preferably near water. It reaches its full size in its second year of growth and often doesn't bloom until its third year. Though the foliage dies back in winter, it survives cold weather well. If grown for its roots, the quality and size will be improved by pruning off the flower heads; this also lengthens the life of the plant, since it dies after producing seed. This plant reproduces itself by side shoots but does not spread aggressively. Angelica attracts butterflies, especially the short-tailed swallowtail.
Harvesting:
All parts of the angelica plant are edible and can be used for culinary or medicinal purposes. The roots are at their best in the autumn of the first year, while the stems and leaves are at their best in the spring of the second year. The seeds can be used when they have ripened. When harvesting angelica in the wild, keep in mind that it strongly resembles water hemlock, a very deadly poisonous plant.
Seed Saving:
The seeds will turn from green to yellow when mature; remove the seed heads and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Rub them lightly to separate the seed from the stems. Plant the seed as soon as possible, or store it in the refrigerator for up to a year.
Culinary:
Taste:
The taste is somewhat similar to celery but is a little bit sweeter and more aromatic.
Culinary Use:
The stalks can be candied for confections and the leaves are added to cooked fruit dishes, soups, stews, fish, gratins, or poultry. The essential oil of the root and seeds has a vanilla-like flavor that is often used for liqueurs and other desserts commercially. The fruit can be used in herbal tea blends and the leaves can be blanched, boiled, and used as a garnish or eaten in salads.
Young shoots and leaf stalks: raw or cooked. When boiled in two lots of water they form a vegetable that strongly resembles celery. They can be peeled and eaten in salads or blanched and cooked like asparagus. The stems can also be candied and used as a sweetmeat.
Root, leafstalks and stems: candied.
Known hazards: All members of this genus contain furocoumarins, which increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and may cause dermatitis.
Medicinal:
A tea made from the leaves is carminative and stomachic. It is also used in the treatment of colds, rheumatism, etc. The seed and roots can also be used and have a stronger effect. The plant has similar properties to angelica, A. archangelica, though it is inferior since it is less aromatic. The root is carminative, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, sedative, stomachic, and tonic. An infusion has been used in the treatment of fevers, colds, flatulent colic, and other stomach disorders, obstructed menses, and as a general tonic for women. Externally it has been used as a gargle for sore throats and mouths and as a poultice for broken bones, swellings, etc. It has also been used, both internally and externally, as a treatment for rheumatism.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Angelica is a good companion plant for epimediums, ferns, hellebores, lily-of-the-balley, and sweet woodruff.
Enemies: Do not grow dill near Angelica.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Aphids, Leaf Miners, Spidermites, and Earwigs may appear.
Anise
How to Grow Anise
Germination:
Since anise does not take well to transplanting, it should either be direct sown or grown as a container plant. Sow anise in the garden as early as 2 weeks after the last frost date in spring. When the soil reaches a temperature of 68 degrees F, plant the seeds in full sun and well-drained soil, 1/4" deep and 12-15" apart in rows 2' apart. For companion planting benefits, plant anise with coriander; this improves the germination and growth of the anise.
Anise needs little attention once established. Keep the ground weed free, and water the plants if the soil dries out completely.
Crop Care:
Anise is a fairly trouble-free plant and doesn't need much care. You will want to be sure to keep flowering plants well watered.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep soil evenly moist (but not soggy) while germinating, watering once a day if necessary. Continue to keep the soil moist throughout the plant's life, especially during flowering and seed production - this is the most crucial time for the plant.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Anise has moderate nutrient requirements.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep the soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Keep Anise well-weeded, especially while young.
Thinning, when 4" tall: 8 inch(es) apart, when 4" tall, 1 time. When plants are 3 to 4" tall, thin them to their final spacing of 8 to 15" apart. You can thin to 8" apart and wait a couple weeks to see if your plants need more space.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves and flowers as needed. For drying, cut the entire plant before it flowers and hang it upside down to dry.StorageAfter drying the seeds, store them in an airtight container in a dark, cool, dry place.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Harvest the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to turn brown, and spread them out to dry in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh out the seeds by rubbing or shaking the heads, and remove as much chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-3 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
The seeds are famous for their licorice flavor. Their leaves have a similar flavor. Great in baked goods.
Culinary Use:
Seeds are often used in applesauce, bread, soups, and teas for their licorice-like flavor. Leaves can be used in salads.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. The leaves have a sweet aniseed flavor, they are very refreshing to chew and are also nice as a flavoring in salads, puddings, soups, stews, etc. When adding to cooked dishes, only add the leaves for the last few minutes of the cooking or the flavor will be lost.
Seeds: The aromatic seed is eaten raw or used as a flavoring in raw or cooked foods such as soups, pies, bread and cakes. A distinctive sweet licorice flavor, its use improves the body's ability to digest food. The seed is harvested by cutting the whole plant when the seed is ripe. The plants are then kept in a warm, dry position for a week and then threshed to remove the seeds. Store the seeds in the dark in an airtight jar. An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring in sweets (especially aniseed balls) ice cream, chewing gum, pickles, etc. It is also often used to flavor alcoholic drinks such as Pernod, ouzo, and anisette. The leaves and the seeds can be brewed into a sweet licorice-like tea.
Medicinal:
Aniseed has a delicious sweet licorice-like flavor and is a commonly used and very safe herbal remedy that is well-suited for all age groups from children to the elderly. However, its use has declined in recent years with the advent of cheaper substitutes such as Illicium verrum and synthetic substances. It is a particularly useful tonic to the whole digestive system and its antispasmodic and expectorant effects make it of value in the treatment of various respiratory problems. The seed is the part used, generally in the form of an extracted essential oil. The essential oil comprises 70 - 90% anethole, which has an observed oestrogenic effect whilst the seed is also mildly oestrogenic. This effect may substantiate the herb's use as a stimulant of sexual drive and of breast-milk production. The essential oil should not be used internally unless under professional supervision whilst the seeds are best not used medicinally by pregnant women, though normal culinary quantities are quite safe. The seed is antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, expectorant, pectoral, stimulant, stomachic, and tonic. It is of great value when taken internally in the treatment of asthma, whooping cough, coughs, and pectoral affections as well as digestive disorders such as wind, bloating, colic, nausea, and indigestion. Externally it is used to treat infestations of lice, and scabies, and as a chest rub in cases of bronchial disorders. A strong decoction of the seeds can be applied externally to swollen breasts or to stimulate the flow of milk. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: The pungent aroma of angelica may help ward off aphids from nearby plants. Its airy white flower clusters attract parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and other beneficial insects.
Companions: Plant angelica where its 5-8' stems won't shade out lower-growing plants. It's a striking plant for flower borders or herb gardens, and it provides effective shade for summer lettuces. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. The Brassicas plant family includes: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Mustard, and Turnips.
Enemies: Angelica may have a negative effect on carrots.
Other Uses:
An essential oil is obtained from the seed, used in perfumes, toothpaste, medicinally, and as a food flavoring. The powdered seed can be used as a dentifrice and mouthwash. The plant is an ingredient of potpourri. The plant can be used as an insect repellent but it is also said to attract mice. If aniseed oil is liberally smeared around live traps it can attract mice and other rodents into them. The plants seem to be immune to the predations of slugs and snails and can help to protect neighboring plants. A spray made by boiling one part coriander leaves and one part anise seeds in two parts of water is very effective against red spider mites and woolly aphids.
Since anise does not take well to transplanting, it should either be direct sown or grown as a container plant. Sow anise in the garden as early as 2 weeks after the last frost date in spring. When the soil reaches a temperature of 68 degrees F, plant the seeds in full sun and well-drained soil, 1/4" deep and 12-15" apart in rows 2' apart. For companion planting benefits, plant anise with coriander; this improves the germination and growth of the anise.
Anise needs little attention once established. Keep the ground weed free, and water the plants if the soil dries out completely.
Crop Care:
Anise is a fairly trouble-free plant and doesn't need much care. You will want to be sure to keep flowering plants well watered.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep soil evenly moist (but not soggy) while germinating, watering once a day if necessary. Continue to keep the soil moist throughout the plant's life, especially during flowering and seed production - this is the most crucial time for the plant.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Anise has moderate nutrient requirements.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep the soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Keep Anise well-weeded, especially while young.
Thinning, when 4" tall: 8 inch(es) apart, when 4" tall, 1 time. When plants are 3 to 4" tall, thin them to their final spacing of 8 to 15" apart. You can thin to 8" apart and wait a couple weeks to see if your plants need more space.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves and flowers as needed. For drying, cut the entire plant before it flowers and hang it upside down to dry.StorageAfter drying the seeds, store them in an airtight container in a dark, cool, dry place.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Harvest the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to turn brown, and spread them out to dry in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh out the seeds by rubbing or shaking the heads, and remove as much chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-3 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
The seeds are famous for their licorice flavor. Their leaves have a similar flavor. Great in baked goods.
Culinary Use:
Seeds are often used in applesauce, bread, soups, and teas for their licorice-like flavor. Leaves can be used in salads.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. The leaves have a sweet aniseed flavor, they are very refreshing to chew and are also nice as a flavoring in salads, puddings, soups, stews, etc. When adding to cooked dishes, only add the leaves for the last few minutes of the cooking or the flavor will be lost.
Seeds: The aromatic seed is eaten raw or used as a flavoring in raw or cooked foods such as soups, pies, bread and cakes. A distinctive sweet licorice flavor, its use improves the body's ability to digest food. The seed is harvested by cutting the whole plant when the seed is ripe. The plants are then kept in a warm, dry position for a week and then threshed to remove the seeds. Store the seeds in the dark in an airtight jar. An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring in sweets (especially aniseed balls) ice cream, chewing gum, pickles, etc. It is also often used to flavor alcoholic drinks such as Pernod, ouzo, and anisette. The leaves and the seeds can be brewed into a sweet licorice-like tea.
Medicinal:
Aniseed has a delicious sweet licorice-like flavor and is a commonly used and very safe herbal remedy that is well-suited for all age groups from children to the elderly. However, its use has declined in recent years with the advent of cheaper substitutes such as Illicium verrum and synthetic substances. It is a particularly useful tonic to the whole digestive system and its antispasmodic and expectorant effects make it of value in the treatment of various respiratory problems. The seed is the part used, generally in the form of an extracted essential oil. The essential oil comprises 70 - 90% anethole, which has an observed oestrogenic effect whilst the seed is also mildly oestrogenic. This effect may substantiate the herb's use as a stimulant of sexual drive and of breast-milk production. The essential oil should not be used internally unless under professional supervision whilst the seeds are best not used medicinally by pregnant women, though normal culinary quantities are quite safe. The seed is antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, expectorant, pectoral, stimulant, stomachic, and tonic. It is of great value when taken internally in the treatment of asthma, whooping cough, coughs, and pectoral affections as well as digestive disorders such as wind, bloating, colic, nausea, and indigestion. Externally it is used to treat infestations of lice, and scabies, and as a chest rub in cases of bronchial disorders. A strong decoction of the seeds can be applied externally to swollen breasts or to stimulate the flow of milk. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: The pungent aroma of angelica may help ward off aphids from nearby plants. Its airy white flower clusters attract parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and other beneficial insects.
Companions: Plant angelica where its 5-8' stems won't shade out lower-growing plants. It's a striking plant for flower borders or herb gardens, and it provides effective shade for summer lettuces. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. The Brassicas plant family includes: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Mustard, and Turnips.
Enemies: Angelica may have a negative effect on carrots.
Other Uses:
An essential oil is obtained from the seed, used in perfumes, toothpaste, medicinally, and as a food flavoring. The powdered seed can be used as a dentifrice and mouthwash. The plant is an ingredient of potpourri. The plant can be used as an insect repellent but it is also said to attract mice. If aniseed oil is liberally smeared around live traps it can attract mice and other rodents into them. The plants seem to be immune to the predations of slugs and snails and can help to protect neighboring plants. A spray made by boiling one part coriander leaves and one part anise seeds in two parts of water is very effective against red spider mites and woolly aphids.
Balm, Lemon
How to Grow Lemon Balm
Germination:
To start lemon balm indoors in a flat, sow on the surface of the soil about 6 weeks before the last spring frost; provide moderate heat, but keep away from the hottest rays of sunlight. For best results, water lightly with a spray bottle or something similar. Transplant outdoors as soon as the seedlings grow big enough to handle, or after the last spring frost. To direct sow after the last frost, plant the seeds on the surface of the soil and keep it evenly moist until germination, which should take place within 2-3 weeks. Lemon balm prefers well-drained or sandy soil and partial shade but can grow in full sun. With proper handling, lemon balm grows well in containers.
Water regularly, but do not overwater. Mature lemon balm tolerates drought conditions. Control weeds while the seedlings are becoming established. Lemon balm attracts bees, birds, and butterflies; it can become rather invasive if left to spread. To prevent this, remove the flowering stalks before they go to seed.
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves as needed during summer and fall. Lemon balm regrows well after cutting, even coming back after being cut nearly to the ground. For healthy growth, however, do not remove more than half of the plant's growth at one time. The flavor of lemon balm reaches its peak immediately before flowering, and the best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried. Fresh leaves have the best flavor, though they can be dried or frozen; dry them within 2 days at a high temperature to prevent mold.
Seed Saving:
Remove individual flowering stalks as they begin to dry and develop seed. Spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Shake out the seed and store it in a cool, dry place. Plants will spread by self-seeding but are generally not considered to be too aggressive.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. Have a pleasant lemon-like aroma and flavor, they are used mainly as a flavoring in salads and cooked foods. A lemon-flavored tea can be made from fresh or dried leaves. A bunch of the leaves can be added to china tea, improving the flavor, the leaves are also added to fruit cups, etc. They are used as a flavoring in various alcoholic beverages including Chartreuse and Benedictine.
Medicinal:
Lemon balm is a commonly grown household remedy with a long tradition as a tonic remedy that raises the spirits and lifts the heart. Modern research has shown that it can help significantly in the treatment of cold sores. The leaves and young flowering shoots are antibacterial, antispasmodic, antiviral, carminative, diaphoretic, digestive, emmenagogue, febrifuge, sedative, and tonic. It also acts to inhibit thyroid activity. An infusion of the leaves is used in the treatment of fevers and colds, indigestion associated with nervous tension, excitability and digestive upsets in children, hyperthyroidism, depression, mild insomnia, headaches, etc. Externally, it is used to treat herpes, sores, gout, and insect bites, and as an insect repellent. The plant can be used fresh or dried, for drying it is harvested just before or just after flowering. The essential oil contains citral and citronella, which act to calm the central nervous system and are strongly antispasmodic. The plant also contains polyphenols in particular these combat the herpes simplex virus which produces cold sores. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Female aspects". It is used to relax and rejuvenate, especially in cases of depression and nervous tension.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Perhaps because of its pleasing fragrance, lemon balm is said to benefit all vegetables. Planted with broccoli, cauliflower, or other members of the cabbage family, lemon balm may help to deter insects, perhaps by masking the cabbage smell.
Companions: Interplant with broccoli, cauliflower, and the other cabbage family crops. Grow lemon balm as a hedge around the orchard to attract bees for better pollination. Add to an ornamental border or plant with roses.
Enemies: None known.
To start lemon balm indoors in a flat, sow on the surface of the soil about 6 weeks before the last spring frost; provide moderate heat, but keep away from the hottest rays of sunlight. For best results, water lightly with a spray bottle or something similar. Transplant outdoors as soon as the seedlings grow big enough to handle, or after the last spring frost. To direct sow after the last frost, plant the seeds on the surface of the soil and keep it evenly moist until germination, which should take place within 2-3 weeks. Lemon balm prefers well-drained or sandy soil and partial shade but can grow in full sun. With proper handling, lemon balm grows well in containers.
Water regularly, but do not overwater. Mature lemon balm tolerates drought conditions. Control weeds while the seedlings are becoming established. Lemon balm attracts bees, birds, and butterflies; it can become rather invasive if left to spread. To prevent this, remove the flowering stalks before they go to seed.
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves as needed during summer and fall. Lemon balm regrows well after cutting, even coming back after being cut nearly to the ground. For healthy growth, however, do not remove more than half of the plant's growth at one time. The flavor of lemon balm reaches its peak immediately before flowering, and the best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried. Fresh leaves have the best flavor, though they can be dried or frozen; dry them within 2 days at a high temperature to prevent mold.
Seed Saving:
Remove individual flowering stalks as they begin to dry and develop seed. Spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Shake out the seed and store it in a cool, dry place. Plants will spread by self-seeding but are generally not considered to be too aggressive.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. Have a pleasant lemon-like aroma and flavor, they are used mainly as a flavoring in salads and cooked foods. A lemon-flavored tea can be made from fresh or dried leaves. A bunch of the leaves can be added to china tea, improving the flavor, the leaves are also added to fruit cups, etc. They are used as a flavoring in various alcoholic beverages including Chartreuse and Benedictine.
Medicinal:
Lemon balm is a commonly grown household remedy with a long tradition as a tonic remedy that raises the spirits and lifts the heart. Modern research has shown that it can help significantly in the treatment of cold sores. The leaves and young flowering shoots are antibacterial, antispasmodic, antiviral, carminative, diaphoretic, digestive, emmenagogue, febrifuge, sedative, and tonic. It also acts to inhibit thyroid activity. An infusion of the leaves is used in the treatment of fevers and colds, indigestion associated with nervous tension, excitability and digestive upsets in children, hyperthyroidism, depression, mild insomnia, headaches, etc. Externally, it is used to treat herpes, sores, gout, and insect bites, and as an insect repellent. The plant can be used fresh or dried, for drying it is harvested just before or just after flowering. The essential oil contains citral and citronella, which act to calm the central nervous system and are strongly antispasmodic. The plant also contains polyphenols in particular these combat the herpes simplex virus which produces cold sores. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Female aspects". It is used to relax and rejuvenate, especially in cases of depression and nervous tension.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Perhaps because of its pleasing fragrance, lemon balm is said to benefit all vegetables. Planted with broccoli, cauliflower, or other members of the cabbage family, lemon balm may help to deter insects, perhaps by masking the cabbage smell.
Companions: Interplant with broccoli, cauliflower, and the other cabbage family crops. Grow lemon balm as a hedge around the orchard to attract bees for better pollination. Add to an ornamental border or plant with roses.
Enemies: None known.
Basil
How to Grow Basil
Germination:
Since basil thrives in warm weather, it grows best when the soil has warmed and there is no chance of frost. Gardeners with short growing seasons may want to start their seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost date, sowing them thinly in flats and providing heat to speed germination. Transplant 15-18" apart. To direct sow, plant the seeds 1/4" deep in rich soil and full sun, thinning to 15-18" apart when the seedlings develop. Basil also grows well indoors or as a container plant.
Basil thrives in soil that drains well, yet needs water often. If the weather drops below 50 degrees, provide protection. As the plant grows, pruning helps it to develop into a bushy, healthy plant; pruning is also important because once the plant flowers, it will begin to wilt and die. To prune the plant, remove the top several sets of leaves on each stem, taking care to leave at least three sets of leaves on the lower part.
Crop Care:
The biggest problem with Basil is its dislike of cold weather. It just won't thrive if it isn't warm. Fortunately, this isn't a problem in summer in most of North America.
Water Needs: Moderate. Basil likes evenly moist soil.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Basil isn't a very hungry plant, but for maximum leaf production, it should be given fertile soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water. Dry soil may encourage the plants to bolt.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks
If you are repeatedly harvesting from the same plants, you should give them a liquid feed of compost tea, liquid kelp, or fish emulsion), every three weeks. Apply this as a soil drench, rather than as a foliar feed, as you don't want to spray the leaves and then eat them. Don't harvest within 2 weeks of feeding.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, 1 time a week. Be sure to keep the young plants free of weeds.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. The growing tips should be pinched out when the plants are 6˝ to 8˝ tall (this is actually the first harvest). This causes them to send up two growing tips, making the plants bushier and larger.
Pruning, at flowering: at flowering, 2 times a week. Basil stops producing leaves once the flower starts. Continually pinching the flowers off can prolong the harvest of the leaves.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Basil leaves can be harvested as soon as they reach a height of 6-8". The best time to harvest the leaves is in the morning after the dew dries. After the plant is established, harvesting often actually improves production; once the flowers develop, however, the leaves grow bitter to the taste. Remove single leaves or parts of a stem as needed, taking care to leave at least three sets of leaves on the length of the stem for healthy growth. When harvesting, pinch off the stem directly above the next set of leaves. Fresh basil will keep for several days at room temperature, with the stems in a glass of water; if refrigerated, it tends to wilt and turn brown. Basil also freezes and dries well. Since the water content of basil is very high and it can mold easily, the best drying method is a dehydrator, an oven, or a similar dry, warm location.
Storage:You can freeze the leaves whole in a plastic bag, but a better idea is to put the chopped leaves in ice cube trays and cover them with water. Once they are frozen you can transfer them to a plastic bag.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
It is possible to store the fresh leaves by packing them in a jar and covering them with olive oil.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The easiest way to store Basil is to dry it in a warm shady place. This alters its flavor considerably, but it is still very good. It must be dried quickly though; if it takes too long it will deteriorate and turn black. Store in an airtight container in the pantry or on the spice rack.
Storage Req: Dry, Drying, Warm
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Basil has thin leaves and wilts quickly once cut. It will keep for a few days in a plastic bag in the fridge. You can also extend its life by keeping it in water like cut flowers (still store in the fridge).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
After the flowers have finished blooming, the seeds will begin to develop. Harvest the clusters of pods when they turn brown, and spread them out to dry in a protected location away from direct sunlight. Thresh the heads to remove the seed, and clean out as much of the chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 5-8 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Very strong, clove-scented basil. This heirloom is very popular in Thailand and is a very flavorful specialty variety. Great in stir-fries and curry.
Culinary Use: can be used in place for it's green counterpart. It can be used to flavor tomatoes, eggs, pizza, and pasta, or try a new spin on an old favorite with basil lemonade! Due to their deep color, these plants also make great garnishes.
Medicinal:
Sweet basil has been used for thousands of years as a culinary and medicinal herb. It acts principally on the digestive and nervous systems, easing flatulence, stomach cramps, colic, and indigestion. The leaves and flowering tops are antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, galactagogue, stomachic, and tonic. They are taken internally in the treatment of feverish illnesses (especially colds and influenza), poor digestion, nausea, abdominal cramps, gastroenteritis, migraine, insomnia, depression, and exhaustion. Externally, they are used to treat acne, loss of smell, insect stings, snake bites, and, skin infections. The leaves can be harvested throughout the growing season and are used fresh or dried. The mucilaginous seed is given in infusion in the treatment of gonorrhea, dysentery, and, chronic diarrhea. It is said to remove film and opacity from the eyes. The root is used in the treatment of bowel complaints in children. Extracts from the plant are bactericidal and are also effective against internal parasites. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Clearing".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well with peppers, oregano, asparagus, and petunias. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue or sage.
Problems:
Basil may be skeletonized by Japanese beetles.
Since basil thrives in warm weather, it grows best when the soil has warmed and there is no chance of frost. Gardeners with short growing seasons may want to start their seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost date, sowing them thinly in flats and providing heat to speed germination. Transplant 15-18" apart. To direct sow, plant the seeds 1/4" deep in rich soil and full sun, thinning to 15-18" apart when the seedlings develop. Basil also grows well indoors or as a container plant.
Basil thrives in soil that drains well, yet needs water often. If the weather drops below 50 degrees, provide protection. As the plant grows, pruning helps it to develop into a bushy, healthy plant; pruning is also important because once the plant flowers, it will begin to wilt and die. To prune the plant, remove the top several sets of leaves on each stem, taking care to leave at least three sets of leaves on the lower part.
Crop Care:
The biggest problem with Basil is its dislike of cold weather. It just won't thrive if it isn't warm. Fortunately, this isn't a problem in summer in most of North America.
Water Needs: Moderate. Basil likes evenly moist soil.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Basil isn't a very hungry plant, but for maximum leaf production, it should be given fertile soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water. Dry soil may encourage the plants to bolt.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks
If you are repeatedly harvesting from the same plants, you should give them a liquid feed of compost tea, liquid kelp, or fish emulsion), every three weeks. Apply this as a soil drench, rather than as a foliar feed, as you don't want to spray the leaves and then eat them. Don't harvest within 2 weeks of feeding.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, 1 time a week. Be sure to keep the young plants free of weeds.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. The growing tips should be pinched out when the plants are 6˝ to 8˝ tall (this is actually the first harvest). This causes them to send up two growing tips, making the plants bushier and larger.
Pruning, at flowering: at flowering, 2 times a week. Basil stops producing leaves once the flower starts. Continually pinching the flowers off can prolong the harvest of the leaves.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Basil leaves can be harvested as soon as they reach a height of 6-8". The best time to harvest the leaves is in the morning after the dew dries. After the plant is established, harvesting often actually improves production; once the flowers develop, however, the leaves grow bitter to the taste. Remove single leaves or parts of a stem as needed, taking care to leave at least three sets of leaves on the length of the stem for healthy growth. When harvesting, pinch off the stem directly above the next set of leaves. Fresh basil will keep for several days at room temperature, with the stems in a glass of water; if refrigerated, it tends to wilt and turn brown. Basil also freezes and dries well. Since the water content of basil is very high and it can mold easily, the best drying method is a dehydrator, an oven, or a similar dry, warm location.
Storage:You can freeze the leaves whole in a plastic bag, but a better idea is to put the chopped leaves in ice cube trays and cover them with water. Once they are frozen you can transfer them to a plastic bag.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
It is possible to store the fresh leaves by packing them in a jar and covering them with olive oil.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The easiest way to store Basil is to dry it in a warm shady place. This alters its flavor considerably, but it is still very good. It must be dried quickly though; if it takes too long it will deteriorate and turn black. Store in an airtight container in the pantry or on the spice rack.
Storage Req: Dry, Drying, Warm
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Basil has thin leaves and wilts quickly once cut. It will keep for a few days in a plastic bag in the fridge. You can also extend its life by keeping it in water like cut flowers (still store in the fridge).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
After the flowers have finished blooming, the seeds will begin to develop. Harvest the clusters of pods when they turn brown, and spread them out to dry in a protected location away from direct sunlight. Thresh the heads to remove the seed, and clean out as much of the chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 5-8 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Very strong, clove-scented basil. This heirloom is very popular in Thailand and is a very flavorful specialty variety. Great in stir-fries and curry.
Culinary Use: can be used in place for it's green counterpart. It can be used to flavor tomatoes, eggs, pizza, and pasta, or try a new spin on an old favorite with basil lemonade! Due to their deep color, these plants also make great garnishes.
Medicinal:
Sweet basil has been used for thousands of years as a culinary and medicinal herb. It acts principally on the digestive and nervous systems, easing flatulence, stomach cramps, colic, and indigestion. The leaves and flowering tops are antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, galactagogue, stomachic, and tonic. They are taken internally in the treatment of feverish illnesses (especially colds and influenza), poor digestion, nausea, abdominal cramps, gastroenteritis, migraine, insomnia, depression, and exhaustion. Externally, they are used to treat acne, loss of smell, insect stings, snake bites, and, skin infections. The leaves can be harvested throughout the growing season and are used fresh or dried. The mucilaginous seed is given in infusion in the treatment of gonorrhea, dysentery, and, chronic diarrhea. It is said to remove film and opacity from the eyes. The root is used in the treatment of bowel complaints in children. Extracts from the plant are bactericidal and are also effective against internal parasites. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Clearing".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well with peppers, oregano, asparagus, and petunias. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue or sage.
Problems:
Basil may be skeletonized by Japanese beetles.
Bee Balm
How to Grow Bee Balm
Germination:
Starting Bee Balm Seeds Indoors for Spring:
Beebalm seeds can be started indoors. Sow your seed on the soil surface of your 2" Soil Blocks 8-10 weeks before the last frost date of your area. Your seeds should germinate within 10-20 days.
Transplanting Bee Balm Seedlings Outdoors for Spring:
Transplant your seedlings outdoors before they reach a height of 5” into sandy soil. Space your Beebalm seedlings 15-24" apart.
Starting Bee Balm Seeds Outdoors for Spring:
Sow your seed on the soil surface in sandy soil. Space your Beebalm seeds 1-24" apart.
Crop Care:
When growing beebalm inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist.
Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles. In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided.
If desired, you can move your beebalm outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
Harvesting:
This is a "cut-and-come-again" plant so you can harvest leaves as they mature. Keep the leaves well watered and cool.
Culinary:
The fresh leaves of the plant can be used eye-catching garnish. The chopped fresh leaves of balm can be tossed into a salad or added to a dish to add a lemony zest to sweet or tangy dishes. It combines well with allspice, bay leaves, mint, pepper, rosemary and thyme.
For best results with cooking with lemon bee balm or any other fresh herbs with essential oils they should be added at the end of cooking. They are less potent if you add them during the cooking process.
Lemon bee balm is a wonderful addition to fruit salads, herb butters, fruit drinks, and sorbets. It can also be used in many egg dishes, custards, a variety of soups and casseroles. It makes a great addition for stuffing for poultry, lamb or pork. Its subtle flavor is a perfect for sauces and marinades for fish. Lemon Bee balm combines well with many spices including chervil, pepper, thyme, and parsley.
Medicinal:
Bee balm is used most often as a medicinal herbal tea. It is also used in herbal and medicinal body care products. Sometimes it is used with other herbs such as St. John's Wort to create a stronger healing salve. It can also be used in an extract or tincture form.
Bee balm has been used medicinally since the Middle Ages. It is has been used to relieve anxiety, stress and tension since that time and is still used today for those same illnesses. It helps heal naturally.
Anxiety And Bee Balm:
Lemon beebalm is a wonderful nerve tonic. It is good on it's own for anxiety and stress, but can also be used in combination with other calming herbs such as valerian, catnip, lavender, or passionflower. When using valerian, you should not use any other sleep inducing medication such as valium. (Do not take our oil or ointment internally.)
For anxiety Lemon bee balm is either given in tea or tincture. A tincture is a concentrated herbal medicine that is made with alcohol. The alcohol draws in the medicinal properties of the lemon bee balm as it is being made, and is a good way to take herbal medicine. You can easily dissipate the alcohol by letting it sit in warm water for a few minutes. This works well for people who have a sensitivity to alcohol, or don't want to use products with alcohol in them.
If a tincture does not suit you, you can certainly use lemon bee balm as a tea. The usual dosage for a cup of herbal tea is 1 tablespoon per one cup (coffee cup) of water. Pour hot water over the herb in the cup. Cover with plate to allow the essential oils of the lemon bee balm to stay in the cup. Strain after 10-15 minutes. Sit back, drink, and enjoy. It is best to take 3-4 cups per day for 2 weeks to allow the lemon beebalm to take effect.
Herpes / Cold Sores:
All natural lemon bee balm ointmentIn studies, it has been shown to have polyphenols. The polyphenols give bee balm fantastic antiviral actions. In particular, they help to combat and heal cold sores due to the herpes simples virus (HSV). Applied to the affected area, it helps heal cold the sores in about 3-5 days. It also helps double the time between outbreaks.
Lemon bee balm that is used on herpes cold sores is usually found in either an oil or an ointment. The leaves of the plant are steeped in a carrier oil (such as almond, apricot, or olive) for 4-6 weeks. The oil absorbs the medicinal actions of the lemon bee balm. It is then strained and either used as lemon bee balm oil or ointment. It is a popular herbal ointment for herpes.
Lemon bee balm is also useful on chicken pox and shingles. Both chicken pox and shingles are the same virus as herpes. Used topically, it will help heal the sores of chicken pox and shingles much quicker than on their own.
Flu with Muscle Aches and Pains:
Due to its antispasmodic and relaxant actions lemon bee balm can come in quite handy when a flu hits with muscle aches and pains. It will help relax the body, and the antispasmodic action will help with any muscular spasms. Lemon beebalm increases sweating, and could help in the case of a fever. By making the body sweat, the toxins are driven out of the body through the pores. It can be used at the first sign of flu for best results.
Nausea and Stomach Problems:
Lemon bee balm as a tea is a carminative, and therefore can be used to help settle a nauseous stomach. It will help relieve digestive gas and also help with indigestion. (Do not take oil or ointment internally.)
Aromatherapy:
Lemon bee balm essential oil is very popular in aromatherapy and body care products. It has a calming and soothing slight lemony scent.
Caution: Lemon bee balm should be avoided by those on thyroid medication as it is believed that the herb inhibits the absorption of this medicine. Contact Cloverleaf Farm for an alternative.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Hummingbird Garden Plants:
Bee balm attracts hummingbirds with its red and pink blossoms and its tubular flowers that are naturally suited for a hummingbird's long beak. Other similar flowers include Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), with red and yellow flowers, or silver sage (Salvia argentea), with white flowers tinged with red. Both companions also thrive in full sun or partial shade in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Herbs:
As a member of the mint family, bee balm leaves have a minty smell and make a pleasant, herbal tea. Bee balm adds color and height to an herb garden and should be planted near the center of the garden surrounded by your preference of shorter herbs grown as annuals, such as basil, thyme, chives and parsley. Add a perennial herb such as rosemary in USDA plant hardiness zones 7a through 11 for year-round interest in the garden bed.
Colors:
Also grown in full sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, bright yellow daylilies would work well planted in the same garden bed with the warm colors of bee balm. For a contrasting accent, midnight blue agapanthus (Agapanthus x "Monmid") adds the cool-blue color in USDA plant hardiness zones 7b through 11.
Shapes:
As a 6- to 8-inch ground cover growing around the base of bee balm, the light green leaves and multiple flowers of dwarf annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5a through 11 and come in a variety of colors. The blue-gray leaves of the perennial blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) contrast nicely in both shape and color with bee balm. Blue oat grass thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Problems:
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem with some of the monardas. Susceptibility to foliar diseases in general increases if plants are grown in dry soils or are allowed to dry out.
Starting Bee Balm Seeds Indoors for Spring:
Beebalm seeds can be started indoors. Sow your seed on the soil surface of your 2" Soil Blocks 8-10 weeks before the last frost date of your area. Your seeds should germinate within 10-20 days.
Transplanting Bee Balm Seedlings Outdoors for Spring:
Transplant your seedlings outdoors before they reach a height of 5” into sandy soil. Space your Beebalm seedlings 15-24" apart.
Starting Bee Balm Seeds Outdoors for Spring:
Sow your seed on the soil surface in sandy soil. Space your Beebalm seeds 1-24" apart.
Crop Care:
When growing beebalm inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist.
Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles. In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided.
If desired, you can move your beebalm outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
Harvesting:
This is a "cut-and-come-again" plant so you can harvest leaves as they mature. Keep the leaves well watered and cool.
Culinary:
The fresh leaves of the plant can be used eye-catching garnish. The chopped fresh leaves of balm can be tossed into a salad or added to a dish to add a lemony zest to sweet or tangy dishes. It combines well with allspice, bay leaves, mint, pepper, rosemary and thyme.
For best results with cooking with lemon bee balm or any other fresh herbs with essential oils they should be added at the end of cooking. They are less potent if you add them during the cooking process.
Lemon bee balm is a wonderful addition to fruit salads, herb butters, fruit drinks, and sorbets. It can also be used in many egg dishes, custards, a variety of soups and casseroles. It makes a great addition for stuffing for poultry, lamb or pork. Its subtle flavor is a perfect for sauces and marinades for fish. Lemon Bee balm combines well with many spices including chervil, pepper, thyme, and parsley.
Medicinal:
Bee balm is used most often as a medicinal herbal tea. It is also used in herbal and medicinal body care products. Sometimes it is used with other herbs such as St. John's Wort to create a stronger healing salve. It can also be used in an extract or tincture form.
Bee balm has been used medicinally since the Middle Ages. It is has been used to relieve anxiety, stress and tension since that time and is still used today for those same illnesses. It helps heal naturally.
Anxiety And Bee Balm:
Lemon beebalm is a wonderful nerve tonic. It is good on it's own for anxiety and stress, but can also be used in combination with other calming herbs such as valerian, catnip, lavender, or passionflower. When using valerian, you should not use any other sleep inducing medication such as valium. (Do not take our oil or ointment internally.)
For anxiety Lemon bee balm is either given in tea or tincture. A tincture is a concentrated herbal medicine that is made with alcohol. The alcohol draws in the medicinal properties of the lemon bee balm as it is being made, and is a good way to take herbal medicine. You can easily dissipate the alcohol by letting it sit in warm water for a few minutes. This works well for people who have a sensitivity to alcohol, or don't want to use products with alcohol in them.
If a tincture does not suit you, you can certainly use lemon bee balm as a tea. The usual dosage for a cup of herbal tea is 1 tablespoon per one cup (coffee cup) of water. Pour hot water over the herb in the cup. Cover with plate to allow the essential oils of the lemon bee balm to stay in the cup. Strain after 10-15 minutes. Sit back, drink, and enjoy. It is best to take 3-4 cups per day for 2 weeks to allow the lemon beebalm to take effect.
Herpes / Cold Sores:
All natural lemon bee balm ointmentIn studies, it has been shown to have polyphenols. The polyphenols give bee balm fantastic antiviral actions. In particular, they help to combat and heal cold sores due to the herpes simples virus (HSV). Applied to the affected area, it helps heal cold the sores in about 3-5 days. It also helps double the time between outbreaks.
Lemon bee balm that is used on herpes cold sores is usually found in either an oil or an ointment. The leaves of the plant are steeped in a carrier oil (such as almond, apricot, or olive) for 4-6 weeks. The oil absorbs the medicinal actions of the lemon bee balm. It is then strained and either used as lemon bee balm oil or ointment. It is a popular herbal ointment for herpes.
Lemon bee balm is also useful on chicken pox and shingles. Both chicken pox and shingles are the same virus as herpes. Used topically, it will help heal the sores of chicken pox and shingles much quicker than on their own.
Flu with Muscle Aches and Pains:
Due to its antispasmodic and relaxant actions lemon bee balm can come in quite handy when a flu hits with muscle aches and pains. It will help relax the body, and the antispasmodic action will help with any muscular spasms. Lemon beebalm increases sweating, and could help in the case of a fever. By making the body sweat, the toxins are driven out of the body through the pores. It can be used at the first sign of flu for best results.
Nausea and Stomach Problems:
Lemon bee balm as a tea is a carminative, and therefore can be used to help settle a nauseous stomach. It will help relieve digestive gas and also help with indigestion. (Do not take oil or ointment internally.)
Aromatherapy:
Lemon bee balm essential oil is very popular in aromatherapy and body care products. It has a calming and soothing slight lemony scent.
Caution: Lemon bee balm should be avoided by those on thyroid medication as it is believed that the herb inhibits the absorption of this medicine. Contact Cloverleaf Farm for an alternative.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Hummingbird Garden Plants:
Bee balm attracts hummingbirds with its red and pink blossoms and its tubular flowers that are naturally suited for a hummingbird's long beak. Other similar flowers include Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), with red and yellow flowers, or silver sage (Salvia argentea), with white flowers tinged with red. Both companions also thrive in full sun or partial shade in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Herbs:
As a member of the mint family, bee balm leaves have a minty smell and make a pleasant, herbal tea. Bee balm adds color and height to an herb garden and should be planted near the center of the garden surrounded by your preference of shorter herbs grown as annuals, such as basil, thyme, chives and parsley. Add a perennial herb such as rosemary in USDA plant hardiness zones 7a through 11 for year-round interest in the garden bed.
Colors:
Also grown in full sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, bright yellow daylilies would work well planted in the same garden bed with the warm colors of bee balm. For a contrasting accent, midnight blue agapanthus (Agapanthus x "Monmid") adds the cool-blue color in USDA plant hardiness zones 7b through 11.
Shapes:
As a 6- to 8-inch ground cover growing around the base of bee balm, the light green leaves and multiple flowers of dwarf annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5a through 11 and come in a variety of colors. The blue-gray leaves of the perennial blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) contrast nicely in both shape and color with bee balm. Blue oat grass thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Problems:
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem with some of the monardas. Susceptibility to foliar diseases in general increases if plants are grown in dry soils or are allowed to dry out.
Borage
How to Grow Borage
Germination:
Borage thrives in partial shade or full sun and well drained, rich soil; it can also grow very well in poor soil or dry conditions. Since it does not transplant well, direct seeding is the best option. After the last frost of spring when the soil has warmed, sow seeds 1/4" deep and 12-15" apart in rows 18" apart. Germination should occur within 7-14 days.
Keep the soil fairly moist and weeds under control. Since too much soil contact can cause the drooping leaves to rot, a layer of mulch may be helpful. If the plant grows tall and begins to fall over, staking or a trellis may be necessary. Remove wilted blossoms to encourage new flowers.
Crop Care:
Borage does not require very much attention, and will probably grow year after year with or without any help. Mulching can help the soil retain moisture for seedlings and during drought periods, as well as discourage weeds from competing with your plants. Mulching also helps to keep the leaves off the ground, where they could rot.
Water Needs: Moderate. Borage seedlings will require regular watering, but once established, the plant is fairly drought tolerant.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Borage will grow fine in poor soil but will grow taller in soil that is rich in nutrients and organic matter. Soil too rich in nitrogen may cause the plant to bloom less.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1/2", regularly, 2 times a week. After sowing, keep the soil evenly moist to ensure adequate moisture for germination and seedlings. Once established plants can tolerate short droughts, but will be more successful if watered regularly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Mulch, 2", when 4" tall, 1 time. Using a 2" layer of mulch will help to keep the soil evenly moist and block weeds that would compete with your plants for nutrients and water.
Harvesting:
About 6-8 weeks after planting when the plant has been well established, harvesting of the leaves can begin. Small, tender leaves are preferred for culinary use because the older leaves are covered with prickly hairs. Harvest the leaves or flowers in the morning after the dew has dried, choosing flowers that are just beginning to open. Though the leaves and flowers keep for several days in the refrigerator, they tend to lose their flavor when frozen.
StorageLeaves can be frozen but most gardeners only use them fresh. Place leaves in a plastic bag to freeze. You can also put them in ice cube trays for a fun, colorful addition to drinks. Kids love it!
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Leaves and stems can be refrigerated for 3 to 5 days if wrapped in a paper towel and sealed in a plastic bag.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Borage reseeds itself very easily if left alone, though the seeds can easily be collected. Remove the seed heads when they have fully matured and begin to dry; spread them out in a protected location away from direct sunlight to finish drying. Thresh the seeds and remove the debris. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Mild, cucumber-like taste.
Culinary Use:
Young, tender leaves can be used fresh in salads or cooked like spinach or other braising greens. Blue flowers add vibrant color to salads and add a taste of cucumber. Flowers can also be used as garnish for lemonade, punch, iced tea, and even on cakes! Blooming tops can be boiled to make an herbal tea.
Medicinal:
Borage is a fairly common domestic herbal remedy that has been used since ancient times. It has a particularly good reputation for its beneficial affect on the mind, being used to dispel melancholy and induce euphoria. It is a soothing saline, diuretic herb that soothes damaged or irritated tissues. The leaves, and to a lesser extent the flowers, are demulcent, diaphoretic, depurative, mildly diuretic, emollient, expectorant, febrifuge, lenitive and mildly sedative. An infusion is taken internally in the treatment of a range of ailments including fevers, chest problems and kidney problems, though it should not be prescribed to people with liver problems. Externally it is used as a poultice for inflammatory swellings. The leaves are harvested in late spring and the summer as the plant comes into flower. They can be used fresh or dried but should not be stored for more than one year because they soon lose their medicinal properties. The seeds are a rich source of gamma-linolenic acid, this oil helps to regulate the hormonal systems and lowers blood pressure. It is used both internally and externally, helping to relieve skin complaints and pre-menstrual tension.
Hazards of Borage: The plant, but not the oil obtained from the seeds, contains small amounts of pyrrolizidine alkaloids that can cause liver damage and liver cancer. These alkaloids are present in too small a quantity to be harmful unless you make borage a major part of your diet, though people with liver problems would be wise to avoid using the leaves or flowers of this plant.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Powdery mildew may occur.
Borage thrives in partial shade or full sun and well drained, rich soil; it can also grow very well in poor soil or dry conditions. Since it does not transplant well, direct seeding is the best option. After the last frost of spring when the soil has warmed, sow seeds 1/4" deep and 12-15" apart in rows 18" apart. Germination should occur within 7-14 days.
Keep the soil fairly moist and weeds under control. Since too much soil contact can cause the drooping leaves to rot, a layer of mulch may be helpful. If the plant grows tall and begins to fall over, staking or a trellis may be necessary. Remove wilted blossoms to encourage new flowers.
Crop Care:
Borage does not require very much attention, and will probably grow year after year with or without any help. Mulching can help the soil retain moisture for seedlings and during drought periods, as well as discourage weeds from competing with your plants. Mulching also helps to keep the leaves off the ground, where they could rot.
Water Needs: Moderate. Borage seedlings will require regular watering, but once established, the plant is fairly drought tolerant.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Borage will grow fine in poor soil but will grow taller in soil that is rich in nutrients and organic matter. Soil too rich in nitrogen may cause the plant to bloom less.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1/2", regularly, 2 times a week. After sowing, keep the soil evenly moist to ensure adequate moisture for germination and seedlings. Once established plants can tolerate short droughts, but will be more successful if watered regularly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Mulch, 2", when 4" tall, 1 time. Using a 2" layer of mulch will help to keep the soil evenly moist and block weeds that would compete with your plants for nutrients and water.
Harvesting:
About 6-8 weeks after planting when the plant has been well established, harvesting of the leaves can begin. Small, tender leaves are preferred for culinary use because the older leaves are covered with prickly hairs. Harvest the leaves or flowers in the morning after the dew has dried, choosing flowers that are just beginning to open. Though the leaves and flowers keep for several days in the refrigerator, they tend to lose their flavor when frozen.
StorageLeaves can be frozen but most gardeners only use them fresh. Place leaves in a plastic bag to freeze. You can also put them in ice cube trays for a fun, colorful addition to drinks. Kids love it!
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Leaves and stems can be refrigerated for 3 to 5 days if wrapped in a paper towel and sealed in a plastic bag.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Borage reseeds itself very easily if left alone, though the seeds can easily be collected. Remove the seed heads when they have fully matured and begin to dry; spread them out in a protected location away from direct sunlight to finish drying. Thresh the seeds and remove the debris. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Mild, cucumber-like taste.
Culinary Use:
Young, tender leaves can be used fresh in salads or cooked like spinach or other braising greens. Blue flowers add vibrant color to salads and add a taste of cucumber. Flowers can also be used as garnish for lemonade, punch, iced tea, and even on cakes! Blooming tops can be boiled to make an herbal tea.
Medicinal:
Borage is a fairly common domestic herbal remedy that has been used since ancient times. It has a particularly good reputation for its beneficial affect on the mind, being used to dispel melancholy and induce euphoria. It is a soothing saline, diuretic herb that soothes damaged or irritated tissues. The leaves, and to a lesser extent the flowers, are demulcent, diaphoretic, depurative, mildly diuretic, emollient, expectorant, febrifuge, lenitive and mildly sedative. An infusion is taken internally in the treatment of a range of ailments including fevers, chest problems and kidney problems, though it should not be prescribed to people with liver problems. Externally it is used as a poultice for inflammatory swellings. The leaves are harvested in late spring and the summer as the plant comes into flower. They can be used fresh or dried but should not be stored for more than one year because they soon lose their medicinal properties. The seeds are a rich source of gamma-linolenic acid, this oil helps to regulate the hormonal systems and lowers blood pressure. It is used both internally and externally, helping to relieve skin complaints and pre-menstrual tension.
Hazards of Borage: The plant, but not the oil obtained from the seeds, contains small amounts of pyrrolizidine alkaloids that can cause liver damage and liver cancer. These alkaloids are present in too small a quantity to be harmful unless you make borage a major part of your diet, though people with liver problems would be wise to avoid using the leaves or flowers of this plant.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Powdery mildew may occur.
Caraway
How to Grow Caraway
Germination:
Caraway grows best in sandy or well drained soil and full sun. It does not transplant well, so direct sowing after the last spring frost is recommended. Plant the seeds 1/4" deep in rows 18" apart, later thinning the seedlings to 6-8" apart. Germination of caraway is notoriously slow. Caraway can also be planted in the fall.
Crop Care:
Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant is established, taking care not to get the foliage wet to prevent disease. After the plant has grown to some height, it can survive quite well in dry soil. Control weeds, especially when the plants are small.
Harvesting:
Fresh caraway leaves, which have a flavor similar to dill and are often used in salads, can be harvested at any time after the plant reaches a moderate height. The seeds will not be produced until late summer of the plant's second year. Remove the seed heads as soon as the seeds begin to mature, since they shatter easily. Rub the heads lightly to separate the seed from the heads, and store them in an airtight container.
Seed Saving:
This variety of caraway, being biennial, will not produce seed until the late summer of its second year; in cold regions, a layer of mulch may be necessary for protection. The seeds will begin to mature about a month after the plant begins flowering. Remove the seed heads as soon as the seeds begin to mature, since they shatter easily. Rub the heads lightly to separate the seed from the heads. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place and use as soon as possible.
Culinary:
Seed: raw or cooked. A spicy flavor, it is used as a flavoring in confectionery and bread, also as a flavoring in salads, vegetables etc. It is high in protein and fat. The seed is often chewed after a meal in order to sweeten the breath and also to relieve heartburn after a rich meal. An essential oil from the seed is used as a flavoring in ice creams, candy, soft drinks etc. The crushed seeds are brewed into a tea. It has a soothing effect on the digestion.
Root: cooked. Used as a vegetable like parsnips. Stronger in taste than parsnips, but liked by many. A delicious vegetable.
Leaves: raw or as a flavoring in soups etc. The young leaves are much less spicy than the seeds and are a good salad, having a mild parsley-dill flavor. They give an aromatic tang to salads. Older leaves can be cooked as a spinach.
Medicinal:
Caraway has a long history of use as a household remedy especially in the treatment of digestive complaints where its antispasmodic action soothes the digestive tract and its carminative action relieves bloating caused by wind and improves the appetite. It is often added to laxative medicines to prevent griping. The seed is antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactogogue and stimulant. It can be chewed raw for the almost immediate relief of indigestion and can also be made into infusions. The seed is also used in the treatment of bronchitis and are an ingredient of cough remedies, especially useful for children. The seed is also said to increase the production of breast milk in nursing mothers. The seed is harvested when fully ripe, then dried and stored in a cool, dry place out of the sunlight. The essential oil can be extracted from the seed and has similar properties. A tea made from the seeds is a pleasant stomachic and carminative, it has been used to treat flatulent colic. The seed is used in Tibetan medicine where it is considered to have an acrid taste and a heating potency. It is used to treat failing vision and loss of appetite.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: None known.
Companions: Caraway is a good companion to peas. It is slow to germinate, but if sown with fast maturing peas, caraway seedlings will fill in after you harvest the peas. Plant with Strawberries and other shallow rooted plants such as peas, radishes, beetroot, beans, and corn. Caraway has a long taproot that helps loosen compacted soil and bring up nutrients from the subsoil. This carrot family plant also bears lacy white heads of tiny flowers that attract a multitude of insects, including predatory wasps and other beneficials. It is a wonderful companion plant to most herbs.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners have observed that caraway does not grow well next to fennel or dill.
Caraway grows best in sandy or well drained soil and full sun. It does not transplant well, so direct sowing after the last spring frost is recommended. Plant the seeds 1/4" deep in rows 18" apart, later thinning the seedlings to 6-8" apart. Germination of caraway is notoriously slow. Caraway can also be planted in the fall.
Crop Care:
Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant is established, taking care not to get the foliage wet to prevent disease. After the plant has grown to some height, it can survive quite well in dry soil. Control weeds, especially when the plants are small.
Harvesting:
Fresh caraway leaves, which have a flavor similar to dill and are often used in salads, can be harvested at any time after the plant reaches a moderate height. The seeds will not be produced until late summer of the plant's second year. Remove the seed heads as soon as the seeds begin to mature, since they shatter easily. Rub the heads lightly to separate the seed from the heads, and store them in an airtight container.
Seed Saving:
This variety of caraway, being biennial, will not produce seed until the late summer of its second year; in cold regions, a layer of mulch may be necessary for protection. The seeds will begin to mature about a month after the plant begins flowering. Remove the seed heads as soon as the seeds begin to mature, since they shatter easily. Rub the heads lightly to separate the seed from the heads. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place and use as soon as possible.
Culinary:
Seed: raw or cooked. A spicy flavor, it is used as a flavoring in confectionery and bread, also as a flavoring in salads, vegetables etc. It is high in protein and fat. The seed is often chewed after a meal in order to sweeten the breath and also to relieve heartburn after a rich meal. An essential oil from the seed is used as a flavoring in ice creams, candy, soft drinks etc. The crushed seeds are brewed into a tea. It has a soothing effect on the digestion.
Root: cooked. Used as a vegetable like parsnips. Stronger in taste than parsnips, but liked by many. A delicious vegetable.
Leaves: raw or as a flavoring in soups etc. The young leaves are much less spicy than the seeds and are a good salad, having a mild parsley-dill flavor. They give an aromatic tang to salads. Older leaves can be cooked as a spinach.
Medicinal:
Caraway has a long history of use as a household remedy especially in the treatment of digestive complaints where its antispasmodic action soothes the digestive tract and its carminative action relieves bloating caused by wind and improves the appetite. It is often added to laxative medicines to prevent griping. The seed is antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactogogue and stimulant. It can be chewed raw for the almost immediate relief of indigestion and can also be made into infusions. The seed is also used in the treatment of bronchitis and are an ingredient of cough remedies, especially useful for children. The seed is also said to increase the production of breast milk in nursing mothers. The seed is harvested when fully ripe, then dried and stored in a cool, dry place out of the sunlight. The essential oil can be extracted from the seed and has similar properties. A tea made from the seeds is a pleasant stomachic and carminative, it has been used to treat flatulent colic. The seed is used in Tibetan medicine where it is considered to have an acrid taste and a heating potency. It is used to treat failing vision and loss of appetite.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: None known.
Companions: Caraway is a good companion to peas. It is slow to germinate, but if sown with fast maturing peas, caraway seedlings will fill in after you harvest the peas. Plant with Strawberries and other shallow rooted plants such as peas, radishes, beetroot, beans, and corn. Caraway has a long taproot that helps loosen compacted soil and bring up nutrients from the subsoil. This carrot family plant also bears lacy white heads of tiny flowers that attract a multitude of insects, including predatory wasps and other beneficials. It is a wonderful companion plant to most herbs.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners have observed that caraway does not grow well next to fennel or dill.
Catnip
How to Grow Catnip
Germination:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125" to 0.25". Sow on surface, tamp securely, and keep evenly moist until germination.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
When: Start 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.
How: Scatter the seeds in containers, and lightly cover with soil (1/4") or standard mix. Mist to moisten the soil without washing the seeds away. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate.
When: There's no advantage to starting early. Wait until all danger of frost has passed to plant your starts outdoors.
How: Plant around some kind of barrier, at least a foot deep, or in a container. Dig a hole 4 to 6" deep (depending on the container size). Gently squeeze the sides of the container to release the soil. Remove the plant and soil from the container and place into hole. Surround with additional soil, but don't bury the base of the plant. Give a good watering. You may need to protect it from cats.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Catnip prefers moderate water, but is drought tolerant once established.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 85°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. There's no advantage to starting your seeds in cold soil, so wait until it's warmed up a little, to at least 60˚ F.
Spacing: 10"-14", 1 plants per sq ft. Space Catnip 10 to 14" apart in beds.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest whenever you feel the leaves are a usable size for your needs, up until it flowers.
When and How:
Flower:
When: Gather the flowering tops in late summer.
How: Dry in the shade. Store away from moisture.
Cut & Come Again:
Catnip can be harvested, but only if the plant is large enough. You should harvest carefully in the first year, as you don't want to damage the plant. Never harvest more than 1/3 of the plant.
Leaves:
When: Harvest before the plant flowers for optimal fragrance.
How: Cut the stem 2" from the base.
Seed Saving:
After the blooms become dry and turn brown, cut them off. Crush the flower heads in a bag over a bowl, letting the seeds fall into the bowl. Spread seeds out to dry for a few days at room temperature before storing in a seed packet (or small envelope).
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 40%
Culinary:
Young leaves: raw. A mint-like flavor, they make an aromatic flavoring in salads. Older leaves are used as a flavoring in cooked foods. They can be used fresh or dried to make an aromatic herb tea. The tea should be infused in a closed container in order to preserve the essential oils, boiling is said to spoil it.
Medicinal:
Catnip has a long history of use as a household herbal remedy, being employed especially in treating disorders of the digestive system and, as it stimulates sweating, it is useful in reducing fevers. The herbs pleasant taste and gentle action makes it suitable for treating colds, flu and fevers in children. It is more effective when used in conjunction with elder flower (Sambucus nigra). The leaves and flowering tops are strongly antispasmodic, antitussive, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, slightly emmenagogue, refrigerant, sedative, slightly stimulant, stomachic and tonic. The flowering stems are harvested in August when the plant is in full flower, they are dried and stored for use as required. An infusion produces free perspiration, it is considered to be beneficial in the treatment of fevers and colds. It is also very useful in the treatment of restlessness and nervousness, being very useful as a mild nervine for children. A tea made from the leaves can also be used. The infusion is also applied externally to bruises, especially black eyes.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Using catnip as a companion in the vegetable garden can help protect the plants from insect damage without having to resort to dangerous chemicals. Some plants to grow with catnip include: Collards, Beets, Eggplant, Pumpkin, Squash, Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Potatoes.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Other Uses:
The plant is said to deter insects such as ants and flea beetles as well as rats and mice. (The idea behind it being a rat repellent is probably based on the plants attraction to cats, see notes above.) A strong infusion can be used to repel fleas from carpets or the fur of animals. An extract from the leaves (called nepetalactone) has herbicidal and insect repellent properties. The freshly harvested flowering tops contain 0.3 - 1% essential oil by distillation. It is mainly used for medicinal purposes. The dried leaves retain their fragrance and can be used in potpourri.
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125" to 0.25". Sow on surface, tamp securely, and keep evenly moist until germination.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
When: Start 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.
How: Scatter the seeds in containers, and lightly cover with soil (1/4") or standard mix. Mist to moisten the soil without washing the seeds away. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate.
When: There's no advantage to starting early. Wait until all danger of frost has passed to plant your starts outdoors.
How: Plant around some kind of barrier, at least a foot deep, or in a container. Dig a hole 4 to 6" deep (depending on the container size). Gently squeeze the sides of the container to release the soil. Remove the plant and soil from the container and place into hole. Surround with additional soil, but don't bury the base of the plant. Give a good watering. You may need to protect it from cats.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Catnip prefers moderate water, but is drought tolerant once established.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 85°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. There's no advantage to starting your seeds in cold soil, so wait until it's warmed up a little, to at least 60˚ F.
Spacing: 10"-14", 1 plants per sq ft. Space Catnip 10 to 14" apart in beds.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest whenever you feel the leaves are a usable size for your needs, up until it flowers.
When and How:
Flower:
When: Gather the flowering tops in late summer.
How: Dry in the shade. Store away from moisture.
Cut & Come Again:
Catnip can be harvested, but only if the plant is large enough. You should harvest carefully in the first year, as you don't want to damage the plant. Never harvest more than 1/3 of the plant.
Leaves:
When: Harvest before the plant flowers for optimal fragrance.
How: Cut the stem 2" from the base.
Seed Saving:
After the blooms become dry and turn brown, cut them off. Crush the flower heads in a bag over a bowl, letting the seeds fall into the bowl. Spread seeds out to dry for a few days at room temperature before storing in a seed packet (or small envelope).
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 40%
Culinary:
Young leaves: raw. A mint-like flavor, they make an aromatic flavoring in salads. Older leaves are used as a flavoring in cooked foods. They can be used fresh or dried to make an aromatic herb tea. The tea should be infused in a closed container in order to preserve the essential oils, boiling is said to spoil it.
Medicinal:
Catnip has a long history of use as a household herbal remedy, being employed especially in treating disorders of the digestive system and, as it stimulates sweating, it is useful in reducing fevers. The herbs pleasant taste and gentle action makes it suitable for treating colds, flu and fevers in children. It is more effective when used in conjunction with elder flower (Sambucus nigra). The leaves and flowering tops are strongly antispasmodic, antitussive, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, slightly emmenagogue, refrigerant, sedative, slightly stimulant, stomachic and tonic. The flowering stems are harvested in August when the plant is in full flower, they are dried and stored for use as required. An infusion produces free perspiration, it is considered to be beneficial in the treatment of fevers and colds. It is also very useful in the treatment of restlessness and nervousness, being very useful as a mild nervine for children. A tea made from the leaves can also be used. The infusion is also applied externally to bruises, especially black eyes.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Using catnip as a companion in the vegetable garden can help protect the plants from insect damage without having to resort to dangerous chemicals. Some plants to grow with catnip include: Collards, Beets, Eggplant, Pumpkin, Squash, Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Potatoes.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Other Uses:
The plant is said to deter insects such as ants and flea beetles as well as rats and mice. (The idea behind it being a rat repellent is probably based on the plants attraction to cats, see notes above.) A strong infusion can be used to repel fleas from carpets or the fur of animals. An extract from the leaves (called nepetalactone) has herbicidal and insect repellent properties. The freshly harvested flowering tops contain 0.3 - 1% essential oil by distillation. It is mainly used for medicinal purposes. The dried leaves retain their fragrance and can be used in potpourri.
Chamomile
How to Grow Chamomile
Germination:
In short growing seasons, chamomile can be started inside; start the seeds in a flat 2-3 weeks before the last frost date, and transplant them after the last frost. This herb prefers full sun or partial shade in sandy or well drained soil. For direct sowing, plant the seeds 1/4" deep in rows 18" apart, thinning to 6-8" apart as soon as the seedlings appear. Germination should take place within 1-2 weeks. German Chamomile also grows well as a container plant.
Chamomile prefers cool temperatures and can tolerate light frost. Keep the soil moist while the seedlings are still developing, and control weeds to promote the plants' strong growth.
Crop Care:
Chamomile is pretty trouble-free plant, and doesn't need much care. You can pretty much leave it up to it's own devices, since it will self-sow and grow itself.
Water Needs: Low. Chamomile can survive without additional watering in cooler weather but will need additional water during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather. The plant will also benefit from additional watering when it starts to bloom. Be sure not to overwater it.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Soil should be moderately fertile.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Harvest chamomile as needed as soon as it reaches a desirable size. For the best flavored tea, harvest the chamomile flower heads in the morning as soon as they open. Spread them out to dry for about 2 weeks in a very dry, warm place out of direct sunlight. Store the flower heads in an airtight container.StorageDry at room temperature in a single layer. Flowers may mold if not dried quickly and thoroughly. Some gardeners use a food dehydrator to dry the flowers. Once dry, store the flowers in air tight containers.
Storage Req: Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: 60-75°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Chamomile easily reseeds itself, but the seed can easily be collected. Remove the flower heads when they dry up on the stem; spread them out to finish drying in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh the heads to remove the seed, and store it in a cool dry place for 3-5 years.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 40%
Culinary:
Taste:
Apple like flavor and fragrance.
Culinary Use:
The young sprigs are used as a seasoning. The dried flowers are used to make herb teas. It is aromatic but with a very bitter flavor.
Medicinal:
German camomile is a well known herbal remedy and is much used in the West. In particular it is an excellent herb for treating various digestive disorders, nervous tension and irritability and is also used externally to treat skin problems. An infusion of the flowers is taken internally as an anodyne, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, sedative, stomachic, tonic and vasodilator. An infusion is particularly useful as a stomachic, nervine and sedative for young children, especially when they are teething. It is also used in the treatment of irritable bowel syndrome, Crohn's disease, peptic ulcers and hiatus hernia. In large doses, or when taken regularly for several times each day, the tea can be emetic and can also cause the symptoms it is intended to cure. The flowers are also used externally to treat wounds, sunburn, burns, haemorrhoids, mastitis and leg ulcers. The flowers are harvested when fully open and are dried for later use. The flowers contain various volatile oils including proazulenes. Upon steam distillation these proazulenes produce chamazulene, this is remarkably anti-allergenic and is useful in the treatment of asthma and hay fever. The flowers are sometimes added to cosmetics as an anti-allergenic agent. The whole plant, harvested when in flower, is used to make a homeopathic remedy. It is especially suited to teething children and those who have been in a highly emotional state over a long period of time.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
In short growing seasons, chamomile can be started inside; start the seeds in a flat 2-3 weeks before the last frost date, and transplant them after the last frost. This herb prefers full sun or partial shade in sandy or well drained soil. For direct sowing, plant the seeds 1/4" deep in rows 18" apart, thinning to 6-8" apart as soon as the seedlings appear. Germination should take place within 1-2 weeks. German Chamomile also grows well as a container plant.
Chamomile prefers cool temperatures and can tolerate light frost. Keep the soil moist while the seedlings are still developing, and control weeds to promote the plants' strong growth.
Crop Care:
Chamomile is pretty trouble-free plant, and doesn't need much care. You can pretty much leave it up to it's own devices, since it will self-sow and grow itself.
Water Needs: Low. Chamomile can survive without additional watering in cooler weather but will need additional water during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather. The plant will also benefit from additional watering when it starts to bloom. Be sure not to overwater it.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Soil should be moderately fertile.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Harvest chamomile as needed as soon as it reaches a desirable size. For the best flavored tea, harvest the chamomile flower heads in the morning as soon as they open. Spread them out to dry for about 2 weeks in a very dry, warm place out of direct sunlight. Store the flower heads in an airtight container.StorageDry at room temperature in a single layer. Flowers may mold if not dried quickly and thoroughly. Some gardeners use a food dehydrator to dry the flowers. Once dry, store the flowers in air tight containers.
Storage Req: Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: 60-75°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Chamomile easily reseeds itself, but the seed can easily be collected. Remove the flower heads when they dry up on the stem; spread them out to finish drying in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh the heads to remove the seed, and store it in a cool dry place for 3-5 years.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 40%
Culinary:
Taste:
Apple like flavor and fragrance.
Culinary Use:
The young sprigs are used as a seasoning. The dried flowers are used to make herb teas. It is aromatic but with a very bitter flavor.
Medicinal:
German camomile is a well known herbal remedy and is much used in the West. In particular it is an excellent herb for treating various digestive disorders, nervous tension and irritability and is also used externally to treat skin problems. An infusion of the flowers is taken internally as an anodyne, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, sedative, stomachic, tonic and vasodilator. An infusion is particularly useful as a stomachic, nervine and sedative for young children, especially when they are teething. It is also used in the treatment of irritable bowel syndrome, Crohn's disease, peptic ulcers and hiatus hernia. In large doses, or when taken regularly for several times each day, the tea can be emetic and can also cause the symptoms it is intended to cure. The flowers are also used externally to treat wounds, sunburn, burns, haemorrhoids, mastitis and leg ulcers. The flowers are harvested when fully open and are dried for later use. The flowers contain various volatile oils including proazulenes. Upon steam distillation these proazulenes produce chamazulene, this is remarkably anti-allergenic and is useful in the treatment of asthma and hay fever. The flowers are sometimes added to cosmetics as an anti-allergenic agent. The whole plant, harvested when in flower, is used to make a homeopathic remedy. It is especially suited to teething children and those who have been in a highly emotional state over a long period of time.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Chervil
How to Grow Chervil
Germination:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Start Chervil in early spring when weather is settled but still cool. In hotter climates plant in filtered sun or light shade.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chervil germinates well in cool temperatures, even at 50˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.0"-0.125". Cover seeds very lightly with soil, although some people say to leave it on the surface because it needs light to germinate.
Spacing: 4.0"-8.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The best way to plant chervil is to sow it thickly and then gradually thin it out to a final spacing of 6-8". You should eat the thinnings of course.
Spring Crop: 0-2 weeks before Last Frost Date.
When: Start Chervil in early spring when weather is settled but still cool.
How: Plant in filtered sun or light shade if your climate is hot. Sow seeds 1 to 2" apart in a well-worked fertile seed bed. Cover very lightly and keep evenly moist while awaiting germination.
Fall Crop: 6-8 weeks before First Frost Date.
When: Start Chervil when weather cools in late summer or early fall.
How: Plant in filtered sun or light shade if your climate is hot. Sow seeds 1 to 2" apart in a well-worked fertile seed bed. Cover very lightly and keep evenly moist while awaiting germination.
Crop Care:
Protect Chervil from strong winds and summer sun. This can be easily accomplished by intercropping with taller plants.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep Chervil well watered.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Chervil needs rich soil. Fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks with a high nitrogen source or liquid fish emulsion solution.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
You can begin harvesting once the plants have 8 to 10 leaves, and continue until it starts to flower. If you allow it to set seed you can then gather this.
When and How:
Cut & Come Again, 38-1 days before maturity: Outer leaves can be harvested sparingly once the plant has 8 to 10 leaves. When the plant grows larger, harvest outer leaves frequently but never take more than 1/3 of the plant if you want it to continue producing.
Cut & Come Again, 1-28 days after maturity: Chervil should be harvested regularly to to encourage vegetative growth and discourage seed production. Harvest outer leaves frequently but never take more than 1/3 of the plant if you want it to continue producing.
Storage:You can make Chervil butter to preserve the flavor. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, or freeze it to keep for longer.
Storage Req: Freezer, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Purée fresh Chervil and add a splash or two of water and freeze in ice cube trays.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Seed Saving:
Chervil is self-pollinating, and can be cross pollinated by insects. It easily self-seeds; but if you want to save the seed, let the heads and seeds dry on the plant. Put the whole seed head in a bag and let it dry to stop the seeds from dispersing.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 3 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Chervil has a flavor reminiscent of Parsley and Anise. It also enhances the flavors of other herbs. The flavor becomes bitter if cooked for too long.
Culinary Use:
Edible leaves: raw in salads or used as a flavoring in cooked foods such as soups and stews. A mild aromatic flavor that is suggestive of aniseed. The leaves are often used as a flavoring, they form the basis of the seasoning "fines herbs" and are an essential ingredient of "bouquet garni". The leaves should always be used fresh because the delicate flavor does not withstand drying or prolonged cooking. The leaves are ready for harvesting in about 8 weeks from sowing, the plant responds well to cut and come again harvesting. The flowers are used as a seasoning. The root is said to be edible.
Medicinal:
Chervil is not widely used as a medicinal herb, though it is sometimes employed as a "spring tonic" for cleansing the liver and kidneys, is a good remedy for settling the digestion and is said to be of value in treating poor memory and mental depression. The fresh plant, harvested just before flowering, is digestive, diuretic, expectorant, poultice and stimulant. The juice is used in the treatment of dropsy, arthritis and chronic skin ailments. The bruised leaves are used as a poultice for slow-healing wounds and a warm poultice is applied to painful joints. An infusion of the fresh leaves is also used as an eyewash to treat sore or inflamed eyes.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Chervil is beneficial to lettuce and broccoli when planted nearby. It repels aphids and grows well with other shade-tolerant food plants. Chervil planted near radishes imparts a spicier flavor to the radishes, a plus or minus depending on your personal tastes.
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Start Chervil in early spring when weather is settled but still cool. In hotter climates plant in filtered sun or light shade.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chervil germinates well in cool temperatures, even at 50˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.0"-0.125". Cover seeds very lightly with soil, although some people say to leave it on the surface because it needs light to germinate.
Spacing: 4.0"-8.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The best way to plant chervil is to sow it thickly and then gradually thin it out to a final spacing of 6-8". You should eat the thinnings of course.
Spring Crop: 0-2 weeks before Last Frost Date.
When: Start Chervil in early spring when weather is settled but still cool.
How: Plant in filtered sun or light shade if your climate is hot. Sow seeds 1 to 2" apart in a well-worked fertile seed bed. Cover very lightly and keep evenly moist while awaiting germination.
Fall Crop: 6-8 weeks before First Frost Date.
When: Start Chervil when weather cools in late summer or early fall.
How: Plant in filtered sun or light shade if your climate is hot. Sow seeds 1 to 2" apart in a well-worked fertile seed bed. Cover very lightly and keep evenly moist while awaiting germination.
Crop Care:
Protect Chervil from strong winds and summer sun. This can be easily accomplished by intercropping with taller plants.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep Chervil well watered.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Chervil needs rich soil. Fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks with a high nitrogen source or liquid fish emulsion solution.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
You can begin harvesting once the plants have 8 to 10 leaves, and continue until it starts to flower. If you allow it to set seed you can then gather this.
When and How:
Cut & Come Again, 38-1 days before maturity: Outer leaves can be harvested sparingly once the plant has 8 to 10 leaves. When the plant grows larger, harvest outer leaves frequently but never take more than 1/3 of the plant if you want it to continue producing.
Cut & Come Again, 1-28 days after maturity: Chervil should be harvested regularly to to encourage vegetative growth and discourage seed production. Harvest outer leaves frequently but never take more than 1/3 of the plant if you want it to continue producing.
Storage:You can make Chervil butter to preserve the flavor. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, or freeze it to keep for longer.
Storage Req: Freezer, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Purée fresh Chervil and add a splash or two of water and freeze in ice cube trays.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Seed Saving:
Chervil is self-pollinating, and can be cross pollinated by insects. It easily self-seeds; but if you want to save the seed, let the heads and seeds dry on the plant. Put the whole seed head in a bag and let it dry to stop the seeds from dispersing.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 3 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Chervil has a flavor reminiscent of Parsley and Anise. It also enhances the flavors of other herbs. The flavor becomes bitter if cooked for too long.
Culinary Use:
Edible leaves: raw in salads or used as a flavoring in cooked foods such as soups and stews. A mild aromatic flavor that is suggestive of aniseed. The leaves are often used as a flavoring, they form the basis of the seasoning "fines herbs" and are an essential ingredient of "bouquet garni". The leaves should always be used fresh because the delicate flavor does not withstand drying or prolonged cooking. The leaves are ready for harvesting in about 8 weeks from sowing, the plant responds well to cut and come again harvesting. The flowers are used as a seasoning. The root is said to be edible.
Medicinal:
Chervil is not widely used as a medicinal herb, though it is sometimes employed as a "spring tonic" for cleansing the liver and kidneys, is a good remedy for settling the digestion and is said to be of value in treating poor memory and mental depression. The fresh plant, harvested just before flowering, is digestive, diuretic, expectorant, poultice and stimulant. The juice is used in the treatment of dropsy, arthritis and chronic skin ailments. The bruised leaves are used as a poultice for slow-healing wounds and a warm poultice is applied to painful joints. An infusion of the fresh leaves is also used as an eyewash to treat sore or inflamed eyes.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Chervil is beneficial to lettuce and broccoli when planted nearby. It repels aphids and grows well with other shade-tolerant food plants. Chervil planted near radishes imparts a spicier flavor to the radishes, a plus or minus depending on your personal tastes.
Chia
How to Grow Chia
Germination:
For sprouting purposes, place the chia seeds in a tray and moisten them with water. Cover the tray and keep it at a temperature of 75-85 degrees F for about four days or until they reach 1/2", the usual size for eating. Start the seeds for planting outdoors 4-6 weeks before the last spring frost, sowing them on the surface of the soil and keeping the flat warm and lightly moist. Transplant the seedlings well after frost, spacing them 12-15" apart in well drained soil and full sun.
Crop Care:
Chia prefers fairly dry soil, and should not be watered regularly unless drought conditions persist.
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves as soon as the plant reaches a height of 6". The leaves can also be dried for use in tea. If given a long and warm enough growing season, chia will produce seed heads that can be dried and threshed to remove the seed. However, since chia seeds easily absorb moisture, they are prone to mold and other diseases; for this reason, eating untested chia seed may pose a risk.
Seed Saving:
The size of your harvest will determine how many days are required to separate the seeds, but if I don't have time, I store dried flower heads in a large calico bag until I have time for my next seed separating session.
Successful collection of chia seeds without waste has a lot to do with timing. When growing chia at home, it is possible to pick individual flower heads when they look ready instead of doing a mass harvesting like they do in a commercial growing environment.
If you wait until the flower head browns, you risk losing the seeds.
Begin harvesting your chia as soon as most of the petals have fallen off the flower.
Give the heads time to dry in paper bags or on a drying rack. Expect at least some of the chia seeds will break free in the process.
Do not hang the plants upside down in your shed.
Culinary:
Chia is very convenient and versatile. Here's ten different ways to use chia seeds and leaves.
Chew Chia Seeds:
You can chew chia seeds, releasing their nutty taste, as a snack on a busy day. They swell a little as they absorb saliva, making them soft and ready for the journey to your stomach.
Soak and Drink:
Soaking the seeds first in water or fresh juice makes them even easier for your body to digest. Wait long enough for the seeds to swell. Chia seeds have appetite suppressant qualities and are useful for dieters.
Add Chia to Milkshakes and Smoothies:
If you enjoy a summer smoothie or your kids like milkshakes, add some chia seeds for extra energy. You probably won't notice them as you drink, but the goodness will be there!
Sprinkle Chia Seeds Over Food:
Chia seeds can be sprinkled over breakfast cereals, jam on toast, or a nice fresh salad. When I serve my home-made pumpkin soup, I add a dollop of sour cream and sprinkle chia seeds over the top of each bowl.
Eat Chia Sprouts:
Sprouting chia seeds increases their vitamin content and makes them even more nutritious. Just like sprouted alfalfa and mung beans, chia sprouts are a great addition to a salad.
Drink Chia Tea:
The leaves, fresh or dried, make a relaxing and therapeutic tea. Chia tea has traditionally been used for fevers and pain relief, to relieve arthritis and respiratory problems, as a gargle for mouth ulcers and sore throats, and to reduce blood pressure and cholesterol levels. If you want to sweeten your chia tea, use a healthy sweetener like honey or stevia.
Add Chia to Bread Mix:
When baking bread, toss a handful of chia seeds in the mix. This is not the healthiest way to eat chia because essential fatty acids are at their best when uncooked, but it makes the bread a little lighter and provides a nice change in texture.
For sprouting purposes, place the chia seeds in a tray and moisten them with water. Cover the tray and keep it at a temperature of 75-85 degrees F for about four days or until they reach 1/2", the usual size for eating. Start the seeds for planting outdoors 4-6 weeks before the last spring frost, sowing them on the surface of the soil and keeping the flat warm and lightly moist. Transplant the seedlings well after frost, spacing them 12-15" apart in well drained soil and full sun.
Crop Care:
Chia prefers fairly dry soil, and should not be watered regularly unless drought conditions persist.
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves as soon as the plant reaches a height of 6". The leaves can also be dried for use in tea. If given a long and warm enough growing season, chia will produce seed heads that can be dried and threshed to remove the seed. However, since chia seeds easily absorb moisture, they are prone to mold and other diseases; for this reason, eating untested chia seed may pose a risk.
Seed Saving:
The size of your harvest will determine how many days are required to separate the seeds, but if I don't have time, I store dried flower heads in a large calico bag until I have time for my next seed separating session.
Successful collection of chia seeds without waste has a lot to do with timing. When growing chia at home, it is possible to pick individual flower heads when they look ready instead of doing a mass harvesting like they do in a commercial growing environment.
If you wait until the flower head browns, you risk losing the seeds.
Begin harvesting your chia as soon as most of the petals have fallen off the flower.
Give the heads time to dry in paper bags or on a drying rack. Expect at least some of the chia seeds will break free in the process.
Do not hang the plants upside down in your shed.
Culinary:
Chia is very convenient and versatile. Here's ten different ways to use chia seeds and leaves.
Chew Chia Seeds:
You can chew chia seeds, releasing their nutty taste, as a snack on a busy day. They swell a little as they absorb saliva, making them soft and ready for the journey to your stomach.
Soak and Drink:
Soaking the seeds first in water or fresh juice makes them even easier for your body to digest. Wait long enough for the seeds to swell. Chia seeds have appetite suppressant qualities and are useful for dieters.
Add Chia to Milkshakes and Smoothies:
If you enjoy a summer smoothie or your kids like milkshakes, add some chia seeds for extra energy. You probably won't notice them as you drink, but the goodness will be there!
Sprinkle Chia Seeds Over Food:
Chia seeds can be sprinkled over breakfast cereals, jam on toast, or a nice fresh salad. When I serve my home-made pumpkin soup, I add a dollop of sour cream and sprinkle chia seeds over the top of each bowl.
Eat Chia Sprouts:
Sprouting chia seeds increases their vitamin content and makes them even more nutritious. Just like sprouted alfalfa and mung beans, chia sprouts are a great addition to a salad.
Drink Chia Tea:
The leaves, fresh or dried, make a relaxing and therapeutic tea. Chia tea has traditionally been used for fevers and pain relief, to relieve arthritis and respiratory problems, as a gargle for mouth ulcers and sore throats, and to reduce blood pressure and cholesterol levels. If you want to sweeten your chia tea, use a healthy sweetener like honey or stevia.
Add Chia to Bread Mix:
When baking bread, toss a handful of chia seeds in the mix. This is not the healthiest way to eat chia because essential fatty acids are at their best when uncooked, but it makes the bread a little lighter and provides a nice change in texture.
Chives
How to Grow Chives
Germination:
Chives grow well in a variety of soil types, though they prefer moist, well drained soil and full sun or partial shade. In short growing seasons, the seed can be started indoors in a flat; provide bottom heat for fastest germination. To direct sow, plant the seeds after the last frost of spring 1/4" deep in rows 18" apart, thinning to 6-8" apart as soon as the seedlings appear. Germination should take place within 14 days. Garlic chives also grow well as a container plant. For companion planting benefits, plant garlic chives with carrots; this improves the carrots' flavor and production.
Keep the soil moist while the seedlings are developing. Garlic chives will spread vigorously with each year of growth, and can easily be divided for new plantings. To prevent the plant from reseeding itself, be sure to remove the developing seed heads and keep the plant trimmed. To blanch the developing leaves, cover the plant with a thick layer of straw. After several frosts, cut the plant down to the ground.
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year: Chives are low maintenance perennials and will do fine without much attention. They are found growing wild over large parts of the northern hemisphere.
Water Needs: Moderate. Chives are pretty drought tolerant and don't need a lot of watering. However the soil should be kept moist for maximum productivity.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Like other members of the Onion family, it is a fairly light feeder.
Weeding: 1 time a week. This plant is quite low growing and doesn't produce a lot of foliage so is somewhat vulnerable to weeds. Chives must be weeded regularly to prevent them from getting slowly swamped by weeds. This is particularly important while the plants are young.
Watering: Water, 1 cup per plant, 1 time a week. Like most members of the Onion family, chives will rot if constantly damp so take care not to over water. Water regularly, especially in the summer to keep plants growing strong. If watering seeds, use lukewarm water to keep the soil temperature around 70˚F.
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 1 cup per sq. ft., every 4 weeks. If your soil isn't very fertile you may want to give the plants an occasional feed of compost tea. It's best to apply the compost tea to the soil around the plants, rather than on to the leaves themselves (you usually eat them raw).
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Wait until the leaves have reached 4" or more in length before harvesting. The longer you wait to start harvesting, the more vigorous the plants will be. Chives grow slowly and usually need about a year of growth before they can be routinely harvested.
When and How: Cut & Come Again
When: If it's the first year for your chives, harvest sparingly. If you have many clusters, you can sacrifice a whole cluster because the other ones will grow larger for next year's harvest.
How: Snip the tops after leaves have reached 6 inches or more.
Cut & Come Again:
When: Snip leaves when large enough to use.
How: Snip the tops after leaves have reached 4 inches or more. Never harvest more than 1/3 of the plant at one time.
Seed Saving:
The flowers are very attractive to bees and other pollinating insects. Just leave the plants alone to flower and they will make seed. The problem is usually preventing it doing so. If you don't want seed then cut off the unwanted flower heads. This prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production and encourages more vegetative growth.
Once you have an established colony, Chives can also be propagated by dividing the dense clumps of plants. The plants multiply quickly and benefit from the occasional thinning.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
A light combination of garlic and sweet chive flavors.
Culinary Use:
Chives are commonly used as a garnish for eggs, meat, fish, potatoes and soups. The beautiful lavender flower heads can be used anywhere else you'd use chives.
Medicinal:
The whole plant is antibacterial, cardiac, depurative, digestive, stimulant, stomachic and tonic. It is an anti-emetic herb that improves kidney function. It is used internally to treat urinary incontinence, kidney and bladder weaknesses etc. The seed is carminative and stomachic. They are used in India in the treatment of spermatorrhoea. The leaves and the bulbs are applied to bites, cuts and wounds.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. A friend to apples, carrots, tomatoes, brassica (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, etc) and many others. Help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews.
The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent. The whole plant is said to repel insects and moles.
Avoid planting near beans and peas.
Problems:
No serious pest or disease problems. Can become a weed.
Chives grow well in a variety of soil types, though they prefer moist, well drained soil and full sun or partial shade. In short growing seasons, the seed can be started indoors in a flat; provide bottom heat for fastest germination. To direct sow, plant the seeds after the last frost of spring 1/4" deep in rows 18" apart, thinning to 6-8" apart as soon as the seedlings appear. Germination should take place within 14 days. Garlic chives also grow well as a container plant. For companion planting benefits, plant garlic chives with carrots; this improves the carrots' flavor and production.
Keep the soil moist while the seedlings are developing. Garlic chives will spread vigorously with each year of growth, and can easily be divided for new plantings. To prevent the plant from reseeding itself, be sure to remove the developing seed heads and keep the plant trimmed. To blanch the developing leaves, cover the plant with a thick layer of straw. After several frosts, cut the plant down to the ground.
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year: Chives are low maintenance perennials and will do fine without much attention. They are found growing wild over large parts of the northern hemisphere.
Water Needs: Moderate. Chives are pretty drought tolerant and don't need a lot of watering. However the soil should be kept moist for maximum productivity.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Like other members of the Onion family, it is a fairly light feeder.
Weeding: 1 time a week. This plant is quite low growing and doesn't produce a lot of foliage so is somewhat vulnerable to weeds. Chives must be weeded regularly to prevent them from getting slowly swamped by weeds. This is particularly important while the plants are young.
Watering: Water, 1 cup per plant, 1 time a week. Like most members of the Onion family, chives will rot if constantly damp so take care not to over water. Water regularly, especially in the summer to keep plants growing strong. If watering seeds, use lukewarm water to keep the soil temperature around 70˚F.
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 1 cup per sq. ft., every 4 weeks. If your soil isn't very fertile you may want to give the plants an occasional feed of compost tea. It's best to apply the compost tea to the soil around the plants, rather than on to the leaves themselves (you usually eat them raw).
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Wait until the leaves have reached 4" or more in length before harvesting. The longer you wait to start harvesting, the more vigorous the plants will be. Chives grow slowly and usually need about a year of growth before they can be routinely harvested.
When and How: Cut & Come Again
When: If it's the first year for your chives, harvest sparingly. If you have many clusters, you can sacrifice a whole cluster because the other ones will grow larger for next year's harvest.
How: Snip the tops after leaves have reached 6 inches or more.
Cut & Come Again:
When: Snip leaves when large enough to use.
How: Snip the tops after leaves have reached 4 inches or more. Never harvest more than 1/3 of the plant at one time.
Seed Saving:
The flowers are very attractive to bees and other pollinating insects. Just leave the plants alone to flower and they will make seed. The problem is usually preventing it doing so. If you don't want seed then cut off the unwanted flower heads. This prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production and encourages more vegetative growth.
Once you have an established colony, Chives can also be propagated by dividing the dense clumps of plants. The plants multiply quickly and benefit from the occasional thinning.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
A light combination of garlic and sweet chive flavors.
Culinary Use:
Chives are commonly used as a garnish for eggs, meat, fish, potatoes and soups. The beautiful lavender flower heads can be used anywhere else you'd use chives.
Medicinal:
The whole plant is antibacterial, cardiac, depurative, digestive, stimulant, stomachic and tonic. It is an anti-emetic herb that improves kidney function. It is used internally to treat urinary incontinence, kidney and bladder weaknesses etc. The seed is carminative and stomachic. They are used in India in the treatment of spermatorrhoea. The leaves and the bulbs are applied to bites, cuts and wounds.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. A friend to apples, carrots, tomatoes, brassica (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, etc) and many others. Help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews.
The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent. The whole plant is said to repel insects and moles.
Avoid planting near beans and peas.
Problems:
No serious pest or disease problems. Can become a weed.
Coriander
How to Grow Coriander
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 75°F, optimal 60°F to 65°F, optimal 65°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 9 (Spring/Summer), 6 to 9 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: While Cilantro is easiest to grow outdoors, you can still start some early indoors to get a jump start on the growing season, or if pests are affecting your Cilantro seedlings when directly sown.
1. Sow seeds 1/4" deep in flats or individual containers. Keep the soil moist during germination.
Harden Off: on last frost date. Place seedlings outdoors every day to allow them to acclimate to outdoor temperatures. Each day, extend the amount of time they are left outside. This will "harden them off."
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: Be careful during transplanting; Cilantro does not transplant well.
When: When plants are 2" tall.
How: Transplant seedlings 3 - 4" apart.
Cool: Cilantro doesn't like heat and bolts quickly once the weather warms up. It does best in the cool weather of spring or early fall. In mild winter areas it may continue to grow right through the winter. It can also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 50°F to 60°F
When min soil temp: 40°F
Spacing: 6.0"-12.0", 4 plants per sq. ft. Plant cilantro 6 to 8" apart if you intend to harvest the leaves, and 12" apart if growing the plants for coriander seeds.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cool: Cilantro doesn't like heat and bolts quickly once the weather warms up. It does best in the cool weather of spring or early fall. In mild winter areas it may continue to grow right through the winter. It can also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 50°F to 60°F
When min soil temp: 40°F
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 6.0"-12.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Plant cilantro 6 to 8" apart if you intend to harvest the leaves, and 12" apart if growing the plants for coriander seeds.
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. Direct sow seeds when soil is 55˚F. Sow seeds 1 - 2" apart, and sprinkle with 1/2" of soil.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Cilantro will do well in any garden soil that is fertile, well-drained and moisture retentive. It likes full sun.
Water Needs: Moderate. Cilantro needs to be watered regularly, but not to the point where the soil becomes soggy.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Because cilantro grows so quickly it is best to include fertilizer when preparing the soil for planting. It is not necessary to fertilize the plant once it has begun growing.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6", when 3" tall, 1 time. Thin seedlings to a final spacing of 6 - 8" for leaves, or 9 - 12" for seeds.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Specifically bred for leaf production, Slow Bolt is slower to bolt as it warms up. To have a constant supply of fresh leaves, sow every 2 to 3 weeks. Keep cilantro at its leafy stage longer by keeping plants well watered, being careful to thin seedlings early.
When and How:
Cut & Come Again, 1-35 days after maturity: You can begin harvesting leaves when the plant is 3" tall.
Seed Pods, 30-55 days after maturity: After the plant has flowered, created seed pods, and dried up, you can remove the pods and use the seeds for flavoring. Simply cut the plants and put them in papers bags. To harvest the seeds, shake the bags till the seeds fall off the plant into the bag.
Storage:
After you have finished drying the seeds, you can store them in your kitchen. Keep them with your other herbs and spices in a airtight jar.
Storage Req: Drying, Warm
Storage Temp: 55-75°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Chop leaves and place into ice cube trays. Then fill the tray with water and freeze. When ready to use, take the cube out of the tray and thaw in a plastic bag. It will be a little mushy if stored this way, but is good for adding to other dishes.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Cilantro should be used as quickly as possible. Store in a plastic bag in the fridge, and sprinkle with water daily to keep tender leaves hydrated.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
If left alone this insect-pollinated plant will eventually produce seed and may even self-sow. There aren't many varieties, so you probably don't have to worry too much about cross-pollination.
Gather the seed heads as the seeds start to turn brown and leave them to dry in a paper bag in a warm place.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Deliciously spicy, essential for Mexican and Asian dishes.
Culinary Use:
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are used as a flavoring in salads, soups etc and the fresh leaves are probably the most widely used flavoring herb in the world. The leaves have an aromatic flavor. The leaves should not be eaten in large quantities. The fresh leaves contain about 0.012% oxalic acid and 0.172% calcium.
Seed: cooked. It is used as a flavoring in many dishes including cakes, bread and curries, it is also widely used to flavor certain alcoholic liquors. The fresh seed has a disagreeable and nauseous smell, but when dried it becomes fragrant, the longer it is kept the more fragrant it becomes. An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Root: The root is powdered and used as a condiment.
Medicinal:
Coriander is a commonly used domestic remedy, valued especially for its effect on the digestive system, treating flatulence, diarrhoea and colic. It settles spasms in the gut and counters the effects of nervous tension. The seed is aromatic, carminative, expectorant, narcotic, stimulant and stomachic. It is most often used with active purgatives in order to disguise their flavor and combat their tendency to cause gripe. The raw seed is chewed to stimulate the flow of gastric juices and to cure foul breath and will sweeten the breath after garlic has been eaten. Some caution is advised, however, because if used too freely the seeds become narcotic. Externally the seeds have been used as a lotion or have been bruised and used as a poultice to treat rheumatic pains. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Appetite stimulant".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Coriander is reputed to help the germination and growth of anise. The pungent smell of its foliage may help deter aphids from nearby crops.
Companions: Interplant coriander anywhere in the garden. Its abundant blossoms increase the population of visiting beneficial insects. Coriander makes a good companion for biennial caraway because of their complementary growth habits.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners think that coriander inhibits seed formation in fennel.
Problems:
Potential insect pests include grasshoppers, leafhoppers and cabbage loopers.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 75°F, optimal 60°F to 65°F, optimal 65°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 9 (Spring/Summer), 6 to 9 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: While Cilantro is easiest to grow outdoors, you can still start some early indoors to get a jump start on the growing season, or if pests are affecting your Cilantro seedlings when directly sown.
1. Sow seeds 1/4" deep in flats or individual containers. Keep the soil moist during germination.
Harden Off: on last frost date. Place seedlings outdoors every day to allow them to acclimate to outdoor temperatures. Each day, extend the amount of time they are left outside. This will "harden them off."
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: Be careful during transplanting; Cilantro does not transplant well.
When: When plants are 2" tall.
How: Transplant seedlings 3 - 4" apart.
Cool: Cilantro doesn't like heat and bolts quickly once the weather warms up. It does best in the cool weather of spring or early fall. In mild winter areas it may continue to grow right through the winter. It can also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 50°F to 60°F
When min soil temp: 40°F
Spacing: 6.0"-12.0", 4 plants per sq. ft. Plant cilantro 6 to 8" apart if you intend to harvest the leaves, and 12" apart if growing the plants for coriander seeds.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cool: Cilantro doesn't like heat and bolts quickly once the weather warms up. It does best in the cool weather of spring or early fall. In mild winter areas it may continue to grow right through the winter. It can also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 50°F to 60°F
When min soil temp: 40°F
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 6.0"-12.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Plant cilantro 6 to 8" apart if you intend to harvest the leaves, and 12" apart if growing the plants for coriander seeds.
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. Direct sow seeds when soil is 55˚F. Sow seeds 1 - 2" apart, and sprinkle with 1/2" of soil.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Cilantro will do well in any garden soil that is fertile, well-drained and moisture retentive. It likes full sun.
Water Needs: Moderate. Cilantro needs to be watered regularly, but not to the point where the soil becomes soggy.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Because cilantro grows so quickly it is best to include fertilizer when preparing the soil for planting. It is not necessary to fertilize the plant once it has begun growing.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6", when 3" tall, 1 time. Thin seedlings to a final spacing of 6 - 8" for leaves, or 9 - 12" for seeds.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Specifically bred for leaf production, Slow Bolt is slower to bolt as it warms up. To have a constant supply of fresh leaves, sow every 2 to 3 weeks. Keep cilantro at its leafy stage longer by keeping plants well watered, being careful to thin seedlings early.
When and How:
Cut & Come Again, 1-35 days after maturity: You can begin harvesting leaves when the plant is 3" tall.
Seed Pods, 30-55 days after maturity: After the plant has flowered, created seed pods, and dried up, you can remove the pods and use the seeds for flavoring. Simply cut the plants and put them in papers bags. To harvest the seeds, shake the bags till the seeds fall off the plant into the bag.
Storage:
After you have finished drying the seeds, you can store them in your kitchen. Keep them with your other herbs and spices in a airtight jar.
Storage Req: Drying, Warm
Storage Temp: 55-75°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Chop leaves and place into ice cube trays. Then fill the tray with water and freeze. When ready to use, take the cube out of the tray and thaw in a plastic bag. It will be a little mushy if stored this way, but is good for adding to other dishes.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Cilantro should be used as quickly as possible. Store in a plastic bag in the fridge, and sprinkle with water daily to keep tender leaves hydrated.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
If left alone this insect-pollinated plant will eventually produce seed and may even self-sow. There aren't many varieties, so you probably don't have to worry too much about cross-pollination.
Gather the seed heads as the seeds start to turn brown and leave them to dry in a paper bag in a warm place.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Deliciously spicy, essential for Mexican and Asian dishes.
Culinary Use:
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are used as a flavoring in salads, soups etc and the fresh leaves are probably the most widely used flavoring herb in the world. The leaves have an aromatic flavor. The leaves should not be eaten in large quantities. The fresh leaves contain about 0.012% oxalic acid and 0.172% calcium.
Seed: cooked. It is used as a flavoring in many dishes including cakes, bread and curries, it is also widely used to flavor certain alcoholic liquors. The fresh seed has a disagreeable and nauseous smell, but when dried it becomes fragrant, the longer it is kept the more fragrant it becomes. An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Root: The root is powdered and used as a condiment.
Medicinal:
Coriander is a commonly used domestic remedy, valued especially for its effect on the digestive system, treating flatulence, diarrhoea and colic. It settles spasms in the gut and counters the effects of nervous tension. The seed is aromatic, carminative, expectorant, narcotic, stimulant and stomachic. It is most often used with active purgatives in order to disguise their flavor and combat their tendency to cause gripe. The raw seed is chewed to stimulate the flow of gastric juices and to cure foul breath and will sweeten the breath after garlic has been eaten. Some caution is advised, however, because if used too freely the seeds become narcotic. Externally the seeds have been used as a lotion or have been bruised and used as a poultice to treat rheumatic pains. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Appetite stimulant".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Coriander is reputed to help the germination and growth of anise. The pungent smell of its foliage may help deter aphids from nearby crops.
Companions: Interplant coriander anywhere in the garden. Its abundant blossoms increase the population of visiting beneficial insects. Coriander makes a good companion for biennial caraway because of their complementary growth habits.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners think that coriander inhibits seed formation in fennel.
Problems:
Potential insect pests include grasshoppers, leafhoppers and cabbage loopers.
Cress
How to Grow Cress
Germination:
When Cool, Warm: Garden Cress grows best in moist soil with cool temperatures. In warmer temperatures Garden Cress can flower before leaves are large enough to harvest, so it should be grown in partial shade during the summer.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Seeds can be sowed once the soil can be worked. Germination may take up to 14 days at temperatures below 50˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". Cover seeds with about 1/8 to 1/4" of soil.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 16 plants per sq ft. Give plants a final spacing of 2 to 4" apart.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before Last Frost Date: Garden Cress grows so quickly that it's best to start it outdoors directly in the garden.
Sowing Directly: Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Containers: Garden Cress has shallow roots and does not need to be grown in deep containers - 4" tall flats are perfect. Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before First Frost Date: Garden Cress grows so quickly that it's best to start it outdoors directly in the garden. Garden Cress needs cool weather, so wait until the summer temperatures drop and fall temperatures begin. Wait until its about 70˚ F outside.
Sowing Directly: Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Containers: Garden Cress has shallow roots and does not need to be grown in deep containers - 4" tall flats are perfect. Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Garden Cress is pretty easy to grow, but it doesn't last long before it bolts. In hot weather it bolts pretty quickly.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep soil evenly moist.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Prefers rich soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep soil moist at all times. If the plants do not receive adequate moisture they will be far less productive.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. Keep Garden Cress free of weeds, especially while young.
Thinning, when 3" tall: Before plants crowd one another, thin plants to stand 2 to 4" apart. Eat your thinnings - they're delicious!
Support: No
Storage:
Store cress in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a few days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
The flowers have both male and female parts and produce seed readily (often too readily as premature bolting can be a problem). Put the ripe plants in a paper grocery bag to dry out and then crush them to release the seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Culinary:
Taste:
Young leaves have a mild peppery taste. As the plants mature they become very hot.
Culinary Use:
Leaves can be used in salads, sandwiches, or in soups and sauces as a potherb. Fancy leaves make a fancy garnish.
Medicinal:
The leaves are antiscorbutic, diuretic and stimulant. The plant is administered in cases of asthma, cough with expectoration and bleeding piles. The root is used in the treatment of secondary syphilis and tenesmus. The seeds are galactogogue. They have been boiled with milk and used to procure an abortion, they have been applied as a poultice to pains and hurts and have also been used as an aperient.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Bunching onions, chives, peppermint, spearmint, and wintergreen. Cress can be inter-planted with other small crops.
Other Uses:
The seed yields up to 58% of an edible oil that can also be used for lighting.
When Cool, Warm: Garden Cress grows best in moist soil with cool temperatures. In warmer temperatures Garden Cress can flower before leaves are large enough to harvest, so it should be grown in partial shade during the summer.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Seeds can be sowed once the soil can be worked. Germination may take up to 14 days at temperatures below 50˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". Cover seeds with about 1/8 to 1/4" of soil.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 16 plants per sq ft. Give plants a final spacing of 2 to 4" apart.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before Last Frost Date: Garden Cress grows so quickly that it's best to start it outdoors directly in the garden.
Sowing Directly: Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Containers: Garden Cress has shallow roots and does not need to be grown in deep containers - 4" tall flats are perfect. Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before First Frost Date: Garden Cress grows so quickly that it's best to start it outdoors directly in the garden. Garden Cress needs cool weather, so wait until the summer temperatures drop and fall temperatures begin. Wait until its about 70˚ F outside.
Sowing Directly: Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Containers: Garden Cress has shallow roots and does not need to be grown in deep containers - 4" tall flats are perfect. Sow seeds 1/8 to 1/4" deep about 1" apart and keep moist.
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Garden Cress is pretty easy to grow, but it doesn't last long before it bolts. In hot weather it bolts pretty quickly.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep soil evenly moist.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Prefers rich soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep soil moist at all times. If the plants do not receive adequate moisture they will be far less productive.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. Keep Garden Cress free of weeds, especially while young.
Thinning, when 3" tall: Before plants crowd one another, thin plants to stand 2 to 4" apart. Eat your thinnings - they're delicious!
Support: No
Storage:
Store cress in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a few days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
The flowers have both male and female parts and produce seed readily (often too readily as premature bolting can be a problem). Put the ripe plants in a paper grocery bag to dry out and then crush them to release the seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Culinary:
Taste:
Young leaves have a mild peppery taste. As the plants mature they become very hot.
Culinary Use:
Leaves can be used in salads, sandwiches, or in soups and sauces as a potherb. Fancy leaves make a fancy garnish.
Medicinal:
The leaves are antiscorbutic, diuretic and stimulant. The plant is administered in cases of asthma, cough with expectoration and bleeding piles. The root is used in the treatment of secondary syphilis and tenesmus. The seeds are galactogogue. They have been boiled with milk and used to procure an abortion, they have been applied as a poultice to pains and hurts and have also been used as an aperient.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Bunching onions, chives, peppermint, spearmint, and wintergreen. Cress can be inter-planted with other small crops.
Other Uses:
The seed yields up to 58% of an edible oil that can also be used for lighting.
Cumin
How to Grow Cumin
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow seeds 1/2" deep in warmer soils, and 1/4" deep in cooler soils. Keep moist.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 80°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 to 17 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Start indoors in a 4" containers, not a flat. Keep soil moist during germination.
Harden Off:
1 weeks before last frost date: Get plants acclimated to outdoor temperatures by leaving the plants outside for a longer amount of time each day for a week.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: Cumin does not transplant well because of it's long taproot so be sure to plant in the garden before it gets too big for its container. This also makes it easier to transplant without disturbing the roots. Transplant young plants in the garden 6 to 12" apart.
Warm, Hot: Cumin is a tropical plant and needs warmer temperatures, but is very susceptible to disease in humid conditions.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 85°F, optimal temp 70°F to 80°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Start outdoors when soil reaches to 60˚ F.
Spacing: 4.0"-6.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Space cumin plants 6" apart.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Cumin is a tropical plant and needs warmer temperatures, but is very susceptible to disease in humid conditions.
When Outdoor Temp: 50°F to 85°F, optimal temp 70°F to 80°F
When Min Soil Temp: 60°F. Start outdoors when soil reaches to 60˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow seeds 1/2" deep in warmer soils, and 1/4" deep in cooler soils. Keep moist.
Spacing: 4.0"-6.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Space cumin plants 6" apart.
Spring Crop:
1-3 weeks after last frost date: Sow cumin seeds 1/4" deep outdoors when there is no more danger of frost. Keep seedbed evenly moist but not soggy.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Cumin is fairly easy to grow if it has the right weather. It's quite tender and it needs long warm weather to grow successfully.
Water Needs: Low. Although Cumin is drought tolerant, it prefers a moist climate and will benefit greatly from water during hot spells or dry periods.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Soil should be well amended with compost or another well balanced feed of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. Stop weeds from taking over the bed until the plants are large enough to compete.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest when seed pods turn brown and when one seed head is dry enough to crack when pinched. Cumin is notorious for ripening unevenly. Keep a close eye on ripening seed and harvest plants immediately. Once the first seed head is able to be pinched, cut down the whole plant and allow seeds to dry in a paper bag.
When and How: Whole Plant, 1-21 days after maturity
When: Harvest Cumin 3 to 6 weeks after flowering, when the fruits become yellowish brown. Because Cumin seeds commonly ripen unevenly among different plants, harvest each plant as it ripens.
How: Harvest when seed pods turn brown and when one seed head is dry enough to crack when pinched. Once the first seed head is able to be pinched, cut down the whole plant and allow seeds to dry in a paper bag.
Seeds should be clean and dried as soon as possible. If you want store the flavor of the seeds do not immediately crush. Crushing the seeds brings out their flavor but the flavor will not last very long once crushed.
Storage:
Seeds can be dried and stored in an airtight container in the pantry. For ground cumin, grind them in a mortar and pestle.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 60-75°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Flowers contain both male and female parts. Plants are pollinated by insects, but are also self-fertile.
Cover seed heads with a bag and rub the ripe seeds into the bag.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 95%
Culinary:
Taste: Seeds' spicy flavor is crucial to curry and other dishes. Flavor is especially strong when ground but loses flavor shortly after so only grind what you need when you need it.
Culinary Use: The flavorful seeds are an important ingredient in many Indian and Mexican dishes, and also used in bread and cakes. Young leaves make a nice addition to salad mixes. Seeds can be roasted, toasted, or fried in oil to release their aroma.
Medicinal:
Cumin is an aromatic, astringent herb that benefits the digestive system and acts as a stimulant to the sexual organs. It has been used in the treatment of minor digestive complaints, chest conditions and coughs, as a pain killer and to treat rotten teeth. Cumin is seldom used in Western herbal medicine, having been superseded by caraway which has similar properties but a more pleasant flavor. It is still widely used in India, however where it is said to promote the assimilation of other herbs and to improve liver function. The seed is antispasmodic, carminative, galactogogue, stimulant and stomachic. A general tonic to the whole digestive system, it is used in the treatment of flatulence and bloating, reducing intestinal gas and relaxing the gut as a whole. In India it is also used in the treatment of insomnia, colds and fevers and to improve milk production in nursing mothers. Ground into a powder and mixed into a paste with onion juice, it has been applied to scorpion stings. The herb has been used externally as a poultice to relieve stitch and pains in the side. The essential oil obtained from the seed is antibacterial and larvicidal.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
The flowers of cumin - and other plants with the same flower type - are always considered good companion plants. The flowers attract many beneficial insects especially parasitic wasps and predatory flies, which then will hunt insect pests on nearby crops. Cumin is an excellent companion for everything in the cabbage family as well as beets, cucumbers and potatoes.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow seeds 1/2" deep in warmer soils, and 1/4" deep in cooler soils. Keep moist.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 80°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 to 17 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Start indoors in a 4" containers, not a flat. Keep soil moist during germination.
Harden Off:
1 weeks before last frost date: Get plants acclimated to outdoor temperatures by leaving the plants outside for a longer amount of time each day for a week.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: Cumin does not transplant well because of it's long taproot so be sure to plant in the garden before it gets too big for its container. This also makes it easier to transplant without disturbing the roots. Transplant young plants in the garden 6 to 12" apart.
Warm, Hot: Cumin is a tropical plant and needs warmer temperatures, but is very susceptible to disease in humid conditions.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 85°F, optimal temp 70°F to 80°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Start outdoors when soil reaches to 60˚ F.
Spacing: 4.0"-6.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Space cumin plants 6" apart.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Cumin is a tropical plant and needs warmer temperatures, but is very susceptible to disease in humid conditions.
When Outdoor Temp: 50°F to 85°F, optimal temp 70°F to 80°F
When Min Soil Temp: 60°F. Start outdoors when soil reaches to 60˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow seeds 1/2" deep in warmer soils, and 1/4" deep in cooler soils. Keep moist.
Spacing: 4.0"-6.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Space cumin plants 6" apart.
Spring Crop:
1-3 weeks after last frost date: Sow cumin seeds 1/4" deep outdoors when there is no more danger of frost. Keep seedbed evenly moist but not soggy.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Cumin is fairly easy to grow if it has the right weather. It's quite tender and it needs long warm weather to grow successfully.
Water Needs: Low. Although Cumin is drought tolerant, it prefers a moist climate and will benefit greatly from water during hot spells or dry periods.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Soil should be well amended with compost or another well balanced feed of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 2 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. Stop weeds from taking over the bed until the plants are large enough to compete.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest when seed pods turn brown and when one seed head is dry enough to crack when pinched. Cumin is notorious for ripening unevenly. Keep a close eye on ripening seed and harvest plants immediately. Once the first seed head is able to be pinched, cut down the whole plant and allow seeds to dry in a paper bag.
When and How: Whole Plant, 1-21 days after maturity
When: Harvest Cumin 3 to 6 weeks after flowering, when the fruits become yellowish brown. Because Cumin seeds commonly ripen unevenly among different plants, harvest each plant as it ripens.
How: Harvest when seed pods turn brown and when one seed head is dry enough to crack when pinched. Once the first seed head is able to be pinched, cut down the whole plant and allow seeds to dry in a paper bag.
Seeds should be clean and dried as soon as possible. If you want store the flavor of the seeds do not immediately crush. Crushing the seeds brings out their flavor but the flavor will not last very long once crushed.
Storage:
Seeds can be dried and stored in an airtight container in the pantry. For ground cumin, grind them in a mortar and pestle.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 60-75°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Flowers contain both male and female parts. Plants are pollinated by insects, but are also self-fertile.
Cover seed heads with a bag and rub the ripe seeds into the bag.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 95%
Culinary:
Taste: Seeds' spicy flavor is crucial to curry and other dishes. Flavor is especially strong when ground but loses flavor shortly after so only grind what you need when you need it.
Culinary Use: The flavorful seeds are an important ingredient in many Indian and Mexican dishes, and also used in bread and cakes. Young leaves make a nice addition to salad mixes. Seeds can be roasted, toasted, or fried in oil to release their aroma.
Medicinal:
Cumin is an aromatic, astringent herb that benefits the digestive system and acts as a stimulant to the sexual organs. It has been used in the treatment of minor digestive complaints, chest conditions and coughs, as a pain killer and to treat rotten teeth. Cumin is seldom used in Western herbal medicine, having been superseded by caraway which has similar properties but a more pleasant flavor. It is still widely used in India, however where it is said to promote the assimilation of other herbs and to improve liver function. The seed is antispasmodic, carminative, galactogogue, stimulant and stomachic. A general tonic to the whole digestive system, it is used in the treatment of flatulence and bloating, reducing intestinal gas and relaxing the gut as a whole. In India it is also used in the treatment of insomnia, colds and fevers and to improve milk production in nursing mothers. Ground into a powder and mixed into a paste with onion juice, it has been applied to scorpion stings. The herb has been used externally as a poultice to relieve stitch and pains in the side. The essential oil obtained from the seed is antibacterial and larvicidal.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
The flowers of cumin - and other plants with the same flower type - are always considered good companion plants. The flowers attract many beneficial insects especially parasitic wasps and predatory flies, which then will hunt insect pests on nearby crops. Cumin is an excellent companion for everything in the cabbage family as well as beets, cucumbers and potatoes.
Dill
How to Grow Dill
Germination:
Since dill does not transplant well, direct sowing is the best method for planting; plant after the last spring frost in well drained, fertile soil and full sun. Sow the seeds 1/4" deep and 8" apart in rows 18" apart, thinning to 12-15" apart when the seedlings develop. Dukat Dill grows well as a container plant, because of its compact growth.
Keep the seedlings watered, and apply a layer of mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds. Since mature plants may bolt if the soil dries out, keep the soil consistently moist.
Crop Care:
Keep the plants well watered when young. Once Dill is established it doesn't require much attention beyond keeping weeds down. Its deep taproot makes it quite drought tolerant.
Water Needs: Moderate. Dill produces a deep taproot which makes it quite drought tolerant, but for maximum productivity the soil should be kept moist.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Dill isn't a very hungry plant.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, 1 time a week. It is important to keep the plants free of weeds, especially when young.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Dill is pretty drought tolerant, and doesn't need a lot of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil somewhat moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No. In windy weather these tall plants may fall over if not staked. You can plant dill closer together to allow them to support each other from falling over.
Harvesting:
Harvest the fern-like dill leaves as needed as soon as they reach a desirable size; the best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew dries. Peak quality of the leaves occurs when the tiny flowers on the heads begin to open. Though the flavor is best when the leaves are fresh, they can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, dried, or frozen. The heads can be gathered as soon as most of the tiny flowers have opened. To gather the seeds, allow the heads to dry on the stems until the seeds ripen to a light brown. Cut the seed heads and spread them out to finish drying, then rub them gently to remove the seed. Store the seed in an airtight container.
Storage:
The best way to preserve Dill leaves is to freeze them in water in ice cube trays.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Dill seed, leaves and flower heads can be dried for storage. Make sure you dry them very thoroughly and store in an air tight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
The fresh plants may be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Dill reseeds itself readily if left alone after flowering, but the seeds can easily be gathered. Remove the umbrella shaped seed heads as soon as the seeds ripen to a light brown. Spread them out to dry in a location out of direct sunlight, then rub them gently to separate the seeds from the stems. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 5 years
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet-tasting
Culinary Use:
Leaves: raw or cooked. Used as a flavoring in salads etc. The leaves lose their flavor if the are cooked for any length of time and so are best used raw or added to cooked dishes only a few minutes before the cooking is complete. The leaves can be harvested at any time the plant is growing, but are best just before the plant flowers.
Seed: raw or cooked. Very pungent and bitter in taste. It is used as a flavoring in salads, preserves etc, its chief uses being perhaps in making dill vinegar and as a flavoring in pickled gherkins. It can also be sprouted and used in breads, soups and salad dressings. An essential oil from the seed is used as a flavoring in the food industry. A tea is made from the leaves and/or the seeds.
Medicinal:
Dill has a very long history of herbal use going back more than 2,000 years. The seeds are a common and very effective household remedy for a wide range of digestive problems. An infusion is especially efficacious in treating gripe in babies and flatulence in young children. The seed is aromatic, carminative, mildly diuretic, galactogogue, stimulant and stomachic. It is also used in the form of an extracted essential oil. Used either in an infusion, or by eating the seed whole, the essential oil in the seed relieves intestinal spasms and griping, helping to settle colic. Chewing the seed improves bad breath. Dill is also a useful addition to cough, cold and flu remedies, it can be used with antispasmodics such as Viburnum opulus to relieve period pains. Dill will also help to increase the flow of milk in nursing mothers and will then be taken by the baby in the milk to help prevent colic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Improves growth and health of cabbage. Best friend for lettuce. The flower heads of dill are one of the best nectar sources for beneficial insects in the garden attracting hoverflies, predatory wasps and many more. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are subject to squash bugs, like squash plants.) Dill goes well with lettuce, onions, cabbage, sweet corn and cucumbers.
Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be wise to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants. Do plant dill in an appropriate spot for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are beautiful. Do not plant near carrots, caraway, lavender or tomatoes.
Other Uses:
The seed contains up to 4% essential oils. It is used in perfuming soaps, medicines and as a food flavoring. Some compounds of dill (d-carvone is mentioned as one of them), when added to insecticides, have greatly increased the effectiveness of the insecticides.
Since dill does not transplant well, direct sowing is the best method for planting; plant after the last spring frost in well drained, fertile soil and full sun. Sow the seeds 1/4" deep and 8" apart in rows 18" apart, thinning to 12-15" apart when the seedlings develop. Dukat Dill grows well as a container plant, because of its compact growth.
Keep the seedlings watered, and apply a layer of mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds. Since mature plants may bolt if the soil dries out, keep the soil consistently moist.
Crop Care:
Keep the plants well watered when young. Once Dill is established it doesn't require much attention beyond keeping weeds down. Its deep taproot makes it quite drought tolerant.
Water Needs: Moderate. Dill produces a deep taproot which makes it quite drought tolerant, but for maximum productivity the soil should be kept moist.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Dill isn't a very hungry plant.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, 1 time a week. It is important to keep the plants free of weeds, especially when young.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Dill is pretty drought tolerant, and doesn't need a lot of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil somewhat moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No. In windy weather these tall plants may fall over if not staked. You can plant dill closer together to allow them to support each other from falling over.
Harvesting:
Harvest the fern-like dill leaves as needed as soon as they reach a desirable size; the best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew dries. Peak quality of the leaves occurs when the tiny flowers on the heads begin to open. Though the flavor is best when the leaves are fresh, they can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, dried, or frozen. The heads can be gathered as soon as most of the tiny flowers have opened. To gather the seeds, allow the heads to dry on the stems until the seeds ripen to a light brown. Cut the seed heads and spread them out to finish drying, then rub them gently to remove the seed. Store the seed in an airtight container.
Storage:
The best way to preserve Dill leaves is to freeze them in water in ice cube trays.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Dill seed, leaves and flower heads can be dried for storage. Make sure you dry them very thoroughly and store in an air tight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
The fresh plants may be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Dill reseeds itself readily if left alone after flowering, but the seeds can easily be gathered. Remove the umbrella shaped seed heads as soon as the seeds ripen to a light brown. Spread them out to dry in a location out of direct sunlight, then rub them gently to separate the seeds from the stems. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 5 years
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet-tasting
Culinary Use:
Leaves: raw or cooked. Used as a flavoring in salads etc. The leaves lose their flavor if the are cooked for any length of time and so are best used raw or added to cooked dishes only a few minutes before the cooking is complete. The leaves can be harvested at any time the plant is growing, but are best just before the plant flowers.
Seed: raw or cooked. Very pungent and bitter in taste. It is used as a flavoring in salads, preserves etc, its chief uses being perhaps in making dill vinegar and as a flavoring in pickled gherkins. It can also be sprouted and used in breads, soups and salad dressings. An essential oil from the seed is used as a flavoring in the food industry. A tea is made from the leaves and/or the seeds.
Medicinal:
Dill has a very long history of herbal use going back more than 2,000 years. The seeds are a common and very effective household remedy for a wide range of digestive problems. An infusion is especially efficacious in treating gripe in babies and flatulence in young children. The seed is aromatic, carminative, mildly diuretic, galactogogue, stimulant and stomachic. It is also used in the form of an extracted essential oil. Used either in an infusion, or by eating the seed whole, the essential oil in the seed relieves intestinal spasms and griping, helping to settle colic. Chewing the seed improves bad breath. Dill is also a useful addition to cough, cold and flu remedies, it can be used with antispasmodics such as Viburnum opulus to relieve period pains. Dill will also help to increase the flow of milk in nursing mothers and will then be taken by the baby in the milk to help prevent colic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Improves growth and health of cabbage. Best friend for lettuce. The flower heads of dill are one of the best nectar sources for beneficial insects in the garden attracting hoverflies, predatory wasps and many more. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are subject to squash bugs, like squash plants.) Dill goes well with lettuce, onions, cabbage, sweet corn and cucumbers.
Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be wise to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants. Do plant dill in an appropriate spot for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are beautiful. Do not plant near carrots, caraway, lavender or tomatoes.
Other Uses:
The seed contains up to 4% essential oils. It is used in perfuming soaps, medicines and as a food flavoring. Some compounds of dill (d-carvone is mentioned as one of them), when added to insecticides, have greatly increased the effectiveness of the insecticides.
Fennel
How to Grow Fennel
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 90°F, optimal 60°F to 80°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Transplant Outdoors:
When: Transplant your Fennel seedlings outside on the last frost day (or when the soil is warm enough) and they are 3 to 4" tall.
How: Dig a hole 4 to 6" deep (depending on the container size). Gently squeeze the sides of the container to release the soil. Remove the plant and soil from the container and place into hole. Surround with additional soil, but don't bury the base of the plant. Give a good watering.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Fennel needs rich soil and cool growing temperatures. Keep plants well-watered throughout the growing season.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 50°F: Fennel is native to coastal areas and prefers a cool climate.
Spacing: 12.0"-14.0", 1 plants per sq ft. Space fennel 12" apart to allow ample room for the plants to mature.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Fennel needs rich soil and cool growing temperatures. Keep plants well-watered throughout the growing season.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Fennel is native to coastal areas and prefers a cool climate.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 12"-14", 1 plants per sq ft. Space fennel 12" apart to allow ample room for the plants to mature.
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year: Fennel is a fairly easy plant to grow. It doesn't need a lot of water and has no serious pests or diseases.
Water Needs: Moderate. The soil should be kept evenly moist for rapid growth, but be careful because Fennel doesn't like wet soil. A mulch will help to conserve moisture in warm weather.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Fennel is a fairly light feeder and doesn't need very rich soil.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 1 week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep the soil somewhat moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Does not create a bulb, use for foliage and seeds only.
Storage:
Dry fennel seeds for use as flavoring or tea. Put the seed heads in a paper bag until they are fully dry and then store in an airtight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Green Fennel doesn't dry well and is best used fresh. It can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Fennel flowers have both male and female parts and are self-fertile. They are pollinated by insects (the flowers are renowned for attracting wildlife) and different varieties will cross (it will also cross with wild plants).
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Culinary:
Taste:
Mellow anise-flavored seeds, and licorice flavored foliage.
Culinary Use:
Fennel can be used raw or cooked as in braising, grilling or stewing. The unique flavor of fennel can be used to create an infused broth which can be used with fish or as an additive to other dishes.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A delicious aniseed flavor, the young leaves are best since older ones soon become tough. They are often used as a garnish on raw or cooked dishes and make a very pleasant addition to salads. They help to improve digestion and so are particularly useful with oily foods. The leaves are difficult to store dried, though this does not really matter since they can often be harvested all year round, especially if the plants are in a warm, sheltered position.
Leaf stalks and flower heads: raw or cooked. A similar aniseed flavor to the leaves. The aromatic seeds are used as a flavoring in cakes, bread, stuffings etc. They have a similar flavor to the leaves and also improve the digestion. The sprouted seeds can be added to salads. An essential oil from the fully ripened and dried seed is used as a food flavoring in similar ways to the whole seed. Root - cooked. Somewhat parsnip-like. The leaves or the seeds can be used to make a pleasant-tasting herbal tea.
Medicinal:
Fennel has a long history of herbal use and is a commonly used household remedy, being useful in the treatment of a variety of complaints, especially those of the digestive system. The seeds, leaves and roots can be used, but the seeds are most active medicinally and are the part normally used. An essential oil is often extracted from the fully ripened and dried seed for medicinal use, though it should not be given to pregnant women. The plant is analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactogogue, hallucinogenic, laxative, stimulant and stomachic. An infusion is used in the treatment of indigestion, abdominal distension, stomach pains etc. It helps in the treatment of kidney stones and, when combined with a urinary disinfectant like Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, makes an effective treatment for cystitis. It can also be used as a gargle for sore throats and as an eyewash for sore eyes and conjunctivitis. Fennel is often added to purgatives in order to allay their tendency to cause gripe, and also to improve the flavor. An infusion of the seeds is a safe and effective cure for wind in babies. An infusion of the root is used to treat urinary disorders. An essential oil obtained from the seed is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Normalizing". The essential oil is bactericidal, carminative and stimulant.
Known Hazard: Skin contact with the sap or essential oil is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people. Ingestion of the oil can cause vomiting, seizures and pulmonary oedema.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: None Known.
Companions: Plant fennel in an ornamental border rather than in or near a vegetable garden. Its lacy leaves and airy flower heads combine well with flowering ornamentals. Wasps and other beneficials are attracted by the flowers.
Enemies: Coriander planted nearby is reputed to prevent fennel from forming seeds.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for aphids and slugs.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 90°F, optimal 60°F to 80°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Transplant Outdoors:
When: Transplant your Fennel seedlings outside on the last frost day (or when the soil is warm enough) and they are 3 to 4" tall.
How: Dig a hole 4 to 6" deep (depending on the container size). Gently squeeze the sides of the container to release the soil. Remove the plant and soil from the container and place into hole. Surround with additional soil, but don't bury the base of the plant. Give a good watering.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Fennel needs rich soil and cool growing temperatures. Keep plants well-watered throughout the growing season.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 50°F: Fennel is native to coastal areas and prefers a cool climate.
Spacing: 12.0"-14.0", 1 plants per sq ft. Space fennel 12" apart to allow ample room for the plants to mature.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Fennel needs rich soil and cool growing temperatures. Keep plants well-watered throughout the growing season.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Fennel is native to coastal areas and prefers a cool climate.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 12"-14", 1 plants per sq ft. Space fennel 12" apart to allow ample room for the plants to mature.
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year: Fennel is a fairly easy plant to grow. It doesn't need a lot of water and has no serious pests or diseases.
Water Needs: Moderate. The soil should be kept evenly moist for rapid growth, but be careful because Fennel doesn't like wet soil. A mulch will help to conserve moisture in warm weather.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Fennel is a fairly light feeder and doesn't need very rich soil.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 1 week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep the soil somewhat moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Does not create a bulb, use for foliage and seeds only.
Storage:
Dry fennel seeds for use as flavoring or tea. Put the seed heads in a paper bag until they are fully dry and then store in an airtight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Green Fennel doesn't dry well and is best used fresh. It can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Fennel flowers have both male and female parts and are self-fertile. They are pollinated by insects (the flowers are renowned for attracting wildlife) and different varieties will cross (it will also cross with wild plants).
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Culinary:
Taste:
Mellow anise-flavored seeds, and licorice flavored foliage.
Culinary Use:
Fennel can be used raw or cooked as in braising, grilling or stewing. The unique flavor of fennel can be used to create an infused broth which can be used with fish or as an additive to other dishes.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A delicious aniseed flavor, the young leaves are best since older ones soon become tough. They are often used as a garnish on raw or cooked dishes and make a very pleasant addition to salads. They help to improve digestion and so are particularly useful with oily foods. The leaves are difficult to store dried, though this does not really matter since they can often be harvested all year round, especially if the plants are in a warm, sheltered position.
Leaf stalks and flower heads: raw or cooked. A similar aniseed flavor to the leaves. The aromatic seeds are used as a flavoring in cakes, bread, stuffings etc. They have a similar flavor to the leaves and also improve the digestion. The sprouted seeds can be added to salads. An essential oil from the fully ripened and dried seed is used as a food flavoring in similar ways to the whole seed. Root - cooked. Somewhat parsnip-like. The leaves or the seeds can be used to make a pleasant-tasting herbal tea.
Medicinal:
Fennel has a long history of herbal use and is a commonly used household remedy, being useful in the treatment of a variety of complaints, especially those of the digestive system. The seeds, leaves and roots can be used, but the seeds are most active medicinally and are the part normally used. An essential oil is often extracted from the fully ripened and dried seed for medicinal use, though it should not be given to pregnant women. The plant is analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactogogue, hallucinogenic, laxative, stimulant and stomachic. An infusion is used in the treatment of indigestion, abdominal distension, stomach pains etc. It helps in the treatment of kidney stones and, when combined with a urinary disinfectant like Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, makes an effective treatment for cystitis. It can also be used as a gargle for sore throats and as an eyewash for sore eyes and conjunctivitis. Fennel is often added to purgatives in order to allay their tendency to cause gripe, and also to improve the flavor. An infusion of the seeds is a safe and effective cure for wind in babies. An infusion of the root is used to treat urinary disorders. An essential oil obtained from the seed is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Normalizing". The essential oil is bactericidal, carminative and stimulant.
Known Hazard: Skin contact with the sap or essential oil is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people. Ingestion of the oil can cause vomiting, seizures and pulmonary oedema.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: None Known.
Companions: Plant fennel in an ornamental border rather than in or near a vegetable garden. Its lacy leaves and airy flower heads combine well with flowering ornamentals. Wasps and other beneficials are attracted by the flowers.
Enemies: Coriander planted nearby is reputed to prevent fennel from forming seeds.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for aphids and slugs.
Fenugreek
How to Grow Fenugreek
Germination:
Fenugreek can be difficult to transplant, so direct sowing is the best option; this herb thrives in full sun and rich well-drained soil, but it will grow in nearly any kind of soil. A warm weather plant, it should be planted several weeks after the last spring frost. Sow the seeds thickly 1/4" deep, thinning to 4" apart when the seedlings appear. Germination should take place within a week; to improve the germination rate, soak the seeds overnight before planting. Fenugreek also makes an excellent container plant, and can be sprouted for microgreens.
Crop Care:
The most important aspect of fenugreek cultivation is keeping the bed free from weeds. Beds should be weeded regularly to prevent competition with the developing plants. The plants will benefit from additional irrigation if rainfall is not adequate. In addition, productivity of fenugreek grown for seed will be increased with the addition of potash and phosphate fertilizer.
Harvesting:
Fenugreek leaves can be harvested at any time from the microgreen or sprout stage to their mature size. When the plant begins to flower, however, the culinary quality of the leaves declines. To store the fresh leaves, wash them carefully and strip them from the stems; store them in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The leaves can also be dried or frozen. To collect the seeds, wait until they rattle in the pod and shell them like peas. Store the seeds in an airtight container for up to 6 months.
Seed Saving:
Fenugreek grown for seed is ready to harvest within 3 to 5 months after planting. The plants are harvested by uprooting and are then hung up to dry to allow seeds to be collected. In India, where the plant is grown as a vegetable crop, young shoots and leaves are harvested earlier and the plant is allowed to regrow before harvesting again.
Culinary:
This is an aromatic Mediterranean plant that produces long pods containing oblong, brownish seeds. The seeds have a slightly bitter taste and are roasted and ground and used as a flavoring in curries. The leaves from the plant (often sold as methi) can be used in salads, and both fresh and dried leaves are used in Indian cookery. The seeds and the leaves have a strong aroma.
Seed: cooked or sprouted and eaten raw. It has quite a strong spicy flavor, not unlike lovage or celery. When ground into a powder, the seed is a principal ingredient of curries and mango chutney, it is also used in pickles and spice mixes, as a flavoring in bread etc. The seed is usually lightly roasted before use in order to reduce the bitterness. The seed is about 3 mm long, about 10 - 20 seeds being produced in each pod. A good source of many essential elements such as iron, phosphorus and sulfur, the seed contains about 6% moisture, 23% protein, 10% carbohydrate, 8% fat, 10% fiber and 4.3% ash. The ground seeds are used to give a maple syrup flavor to foods. The seed can be soaked for 12 hours in warm water and then allowed to sprout for 3 - 5 days. These sprouted seeds have a spicy flavor and can be added to salads or cooked. An essential oil obtained from the seed is used as a food flavoring in imitation maple syrup, vanilla compositions, licorice, pickles etc. It also has medicinal virtues. The ground up seeds can also be used as a substitute for maple syrup.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Very aromatic, in small quantities they can be added to salads, otherwise they are used as a potherb, a flavoring for root vegetables, an ingredient of curries etc.
Seed pods: cooked. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. A soothing tea is made from the leaves and the seed.
Known Hazards: The seed contains 1% saponins. Although poisonous, saponins are poorly absorbed by the human body and so most pass through without harm. Saponins are quite bitter and can be found in many common foods such as some beans. They can be removed by carefully leaching the seed or flour in running water. Thorough cooking, and perhaps changing the cooking water once, will also remove most of them. However, it is not advisable to eat large quantities of food that contain saponins. Saponins are much more toxic to some creatures, such as fish, and hunting tribes have traditionally put large quantities of them in streams, lakes etc in order to stupefy or kill the fish.
Medicinal:
Fenugreek is much used in herbal medicine, especially in North Africa, the Middle East and India. It has a wide range of medicinal applications. The seeds are very nourishing and are given to convalescents and to encourage weight gain, especially in anorexia nervosa. The seeds should not be prescribed medicinally for pregnant women since they can induce uterine contractions. Research has shown that the seeds can inhibit cancer of the liver, lower blood cholesterol levels and also have an antidiabetic effect. The seed and leaves are anticholesterolemic, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, carminative, demulcent, deobstruent, emollient, expectorant, febrifuge, galactogogue, hypoglycaemic, laxative, parasiticide, restorative and uterine tonic. The seed yields a strong mucilage and is therefore useful in the treatment of inflammation and ulcers of the stomach and intestines. Taken internally, a decoction of the ground seeds serves to drain off the sweat ducts. The seed is very nourishing and body-building and is one of the most efficacious tonics in cases of physical debility caused by anaemia or by infectious diseases, especially where a nervous factor is involved. It is also used in the treatment of late-onset diabetes, poor digestion (especially in convalescence), insufficient lactation, painful menstruation, labor pains etc. The seeds freshen bad breath and restore a dulled sense of taste. Externally, the seeds can be ground into a powder and used as a poultice for abscesses, boils, ulcers, burns etc, or they can be used as a douche for excessive vaginal discharge. The leaves are harvested in the growing season and can be used fresh or dried. The seeds are harvested when fully ripe and dried for later use. Compounds extracted from the plant have shown cardiotonic, hypoglycaemic, diuretic, antiphlogistic and hypotensive activity. One of its constituent alkaloids, called "trigonelline", has shown potential for use in cancer therapy. The seed contains the saponin diosgenin, an important substance in the synthesis of oral contraceptives and sex hormones, whilst saponins in the plant have been extracted for use in various other pharmaceutical products.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plants suitable for pest management of Fenugreek are:
Attractants: Cowpea, Carrots, Sunflower, Buckwheat, French Bean, Alfalfa, Mustard, Cosmos, Anise, Caraway, Dill and Parsley.
Repellents: Basil, Peppermint, Marigold, Ryegrass.
Barrier Plants: Bajra, Corn, Sorghum.
Other Uses:
An essential oil is obtained from the seed - used as a food flavoring and medicinally. The dried plant has a strong aroma of hay. The crushed seed, mixed with oil and massaged into the scalp, is recommended for glossy hair. An infusion of the seed, used as a skin lotion, is said to be good for the complexion. A good green manure crop, it is fast growing and vigorous, producing a lot of bulk and fixing a large quantity of atmospheric nitrogen. A yellow dye is obtained from the seed.
Fenugreek can be difficult to transplant, so direct sowing is the best option; this herb thrives in full sun and rich well-drained soil, but it will grow in nearly any kind of soil. A warm weather plant, it should be planted several weeks after the last spring frost. Sow the seeds thickly 1/4" deep, thinning to 4" apart when the seedlings appear. Germination should take place within a week; to improve the germination rate, soak the seeds overnight before planting. Fenugreek also makes an excellent container plant, and can be sprouted for microgreens.
Crop Care:
The most important aspect of fenugreek cultivation is keeping the bed free from weeds. Beds should be weeded regularly to prevent competition with the developing plants. The plants will benefit from additional irrigation if rainfall is not adequate. In addition, productivity of fenugreek grown for seed will be increased with the addition of potash and phosphate fertilizer.
Harvesting:
Fenugreek leaves can be harvested at any time from the microgreen or sprout stage to their mature size. When the plant begins to flower, however, the culinary quality of the leaves declines. To store the fresh leaves, wash them carefully and strip them from the stems; store them in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The leaves can also be dried or frozen. To collect the seeds, wait until they rattle in the pod and shell them like peas. Store the seeds in an airtight container for up to 6 months.
Seed Saving:
Fenugreek grown for seed is ready to harvest within 3 to 5 months after planting. The plants are harvested by uprooting and are then hung up to dry to allow seeds to be collected. In India, where the plant is grown as a vegetable crop, young shoots and leaves are harvested earlier and the plant is allowed to regrow before harvesting again.
Culinary:
This is an aromatic Mediterranean plant that produces long pods containing oblong, brownish seeds. The seeds have a slightly bitter taste and are roasted and ground and used as a flavoring in curries. The leaves from the plant (often sold as methi) can be used in salads, and both fresh and dried leaves are used in Indian cookery. The seeds and the leaves have a strong aroma.
Seed: cooked or sprouted and eaten raw. It has quite a strong spicy flavor, not unlike lovage or celery. When ground into a powder, the seed is a principal ingredient of curries and mango chutney, it is also used in pickles and spice mixes, as a flavoring in bread etc. The seed is usually lightly roasted before use in order to reduce the bitterness. The seed is about 3 mm long, about 10 - 20 seeds being produced in each pod. A good source of many essential elements such as iron, phosphorus and sulfur, the seed contains about 6% moisture, 23% protein, 10% carbohydrate, 8% fat, 10% fiber and 4.3% ash. The ground seeds are used to give a maple syrup flavor to foods. The seed can be soaked for 12 hours in warm water and then allowed to sprout for 3 - 5 days. These sprouted seeds have a spicy flavor and can be added to salads or cooked. An essential oil obtained from the seed is used as a food flavoring in imitation maple syrup, vanilla compositions, licorice, pickles etc. It also has medicinal virtues. The ground up seeds can also be used as a substitute for maple syrup.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Very aromatic, in small quantities they can be added to salads, otherwise they are used as a potherb, a flavoring for root vegetables, an ingredient of curries etc.
Seed pods: cooked. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. A soothing tea is made from the leaves and the seed.
Known Hazards: The seed contains 1% saponins. Although poisonous, saponins are poorly absorbed by the human body and so most pass through without harm. Saponins are quite bitter and can be found in many common foods such as some beans. They can be removed by carefully leaching the seed or flour in running water. Thorough cooking, and perhaps changing the cooking water once, will also remove most of them. However, it is not advisable to eat large quantities of food that contain saponins. Saponins are much more toxic to some creatures, such as fish, and hunting tribes have traditionally put large quantities of them in streams, lakes etc in order to stupefy or kill the fish.
Medicinal:
Fenugreek is much used in herbal medicine, especially in North Africa, the Middle East and India. It has a wide range of medicinal applications. The seeds are very nourishing and are given to convalescents and to encourage weight gain, especially in anorexia nervosa. The seeds should not be prescribed medicinally for pregnant women since they can induce uterine contractions. Research has shown that the seeds can inhibit cancer of the liver, lower blood cholesterol levels and also have an antidiabetic effect. The seed and leaves are anticholesterolemic, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, carminative, demulcent, deobstruent, emollient, expectorant, febrifuge, galactogogue, hypoglycaemic, laxative, parasiticide, restorative and uterine tonic. The seed yields a strong mucilage and is therefore useful in the treatment of inflammation and ulcers of the stomach and intestines. Taken internally, a decoction of the ground seeds serves to drain off the sweat ducts. The seed is very nourishing and body-building and is one of the most efficacious tonics in cases of physical debility caused by anaemia or by infectious diseases, especially where a nervous factor is involved. It is also used in the treatment of late-onset diabetes, poor digestion (especially in convalescence), insufficient lactation, painful menstruation, labor pains etc. The seeds freshen bad breath and restore a dulled sense of taste. Externally, the seeds can be ground into a powder and used as a poultice for abscesses, boils, ulcers, burns etc, or they can be used as a douche for excessive vaginal discharge. The leaves are harvested in the growing season and can be used fresh or dried. The seeds are harvested when fully ripe and dried for later use. Compounds extracted from the plant have shown cardiotonic, hypoglycaemic, diuretic, antiphlogistic and hypotensive activity. One of its constituent alkaloids, called "trigonelline", has shown potential for use in cancer therapy. The seed contains the saponin diosgenin, an important substance in the synthesis of oral contraceptives and sex hormones, whilst saponins in the plant have been extracted for use in various other pharmaceutical products.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plants suitable for pest management of Fenugreek are:
Attractants: Cowpea, Carrots, Sunflower, Buckwheat, French Bean, Alfalfa, Mustard, Cosmos, Anise, Caraway, Dill and Parsley.
Repellents: Basil, Peppermint, Marigold, Ryegrass.
Barrier Plants: Bajra, Corn, Sorghum.
Other Uses:
An essential oil is obtained from the seed - used as a food flavoring and medicinally. The dried plant has a strong aroma of hay. The crushed seed, mixed with oil and massaged into the scalp, is recommended for glossy hair. An infusion of the seed, used as a skin lotion, is said to be good for the complexion. A good green manure crop, it is fast growing and vigorous, producing a lot of bulk and fixing a large quantity of atmospheric nitrogen. A yellow dye is obtained from the seed.
Heal All
How to Grow Heal All
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, planting just below the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 2-3 weeks. This seed can also be started indoors 8-10 weeks before planting in the spring.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings regularly until they become established, and control weeds. Mature plants tolerate occasional drought, though they prefer consistently moist soil and will benefit from watering in dry weather. This plant can spread vigorously once established; to help prevent this, cut the plant back after blooming has finished. Regular deadheading will increase bloom. This plant attracts bees and butterflies, and also makes an excellent choice for containers, borders, or as a ground cover.
Harvesting:
The edible leaves and flowers should be gathered when in full bloom for medicinal purposes. As with most herbs, it is best to harvest in the morning after the dew has lifted.
Seed Saving:
The flower spike will turn brown and dry while the seeds begin to form. Watch the plant carefully, since the seeds will soon blow away with the wind. Shake the ripe brown heads over a container to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Though self-heal is edible, it apparently has few traditional culinary uses. You may soak chopped fresh leaves or powdered dried leaves in cold water to make a somewhat refreshing beverage, but many tastier ones come to mind. The leaves have little flavor at first, but chewing them brings out a slight bitterness. You may serve the young shoots and leaves raw in salads, cooked as potherb, or added to soups and stews.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They can be used in salads, soups, stews etc. Somewhat bitter due to the presence of tannin in the leaves, though this can be removed by washing the leaves. A cold water infusion of the freshly chopped or dried and powdered leaves is used as a refreshing beverage. Very tasty.
Medicinal:
Self-heal has many common names, most attesting to its reputed curative powers. Hook-heal and sicklewort come from someone’s fanciful notion that the flower in profile resembles one of these tools. Others noted the flower’s resemblance to a mouth and throat, concluding (according to the doctrine of signatures) that it should be used to treat ailments of those parts. The unlikely name carpenter’s herb reflects the herb’s alleged power to “joine together and make whole and sound all wounds, both inward and outward.”
The origin of the generic name, Prunella, is in dispute. It might refer to the purple flowers, but herbalists cling to the theory that it is a variant of Brunella (in German, die Bräune—“the browns”), a kind of bad sore throat that sixteenth-century German soldiers contracted while “lying in camp”. Gerard (1633) described the symptoms as including a “ruggednesse, blacknesse, and drinesse of the tongue, with a kind of swelling in the same,” along with “a continuall ague and frensie.” Rugged, too, was the remedy: a decoction of self-heal taken “after blood letting out of the veins of the tongue” and followed by frequent washing of the mouth and tongue with the same decoction, “and sometimes a little vineger [sic] mixed therewith.” No mention is made of the cure rate. Today, the camp doctor would likely prescribe an antibiotic.
The tannins in self-heal that might have relieved a sore throat might also have been effective in healing wounds and sores. Gerard ranked self-heal and bugleweed (Ajuga sp.) as the two best wound herbs; both contain tannins. Taken internally, self-heal was also thought to alleviate eye inflammations and eyestrain. The American pharmacist and herbalist Ben Charles Harris recommended a decoction of self-heal to soothe the digestive tract during or following an attack of diarrhea.
Self-heal has also been traditionally used for headaches. Gerard noted, “Bruised with oile of Roses and Vinegar, and laied to the forepart of the head, [it] swageth and helpeth the paine and aking thereof.” Today, the herb is known to open up peripheral circulation by expanding blood vessels and thus is used occasionally by European herbalists in treatments for mild headache. However, other peripheral vasodilators such as yarrow, hawthorn, linden, and ephedra have largely replaced self-heal.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions for Heal All are Campanula, Veronica, & Creeping Phlox.
Other Uses:
An olive-green dye is obtained from the flowers and stems. The plant is a good ground-cover in sunny positions or light shade.
Direct sow in late fall, planting just below the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 2-3 weeks. This seed can also be started indoors 8-10 weeks before planting in the spring.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings regularly until they become established, and control weeds. Mature plants tolerate occasional drought, though they prefer consistently moist soil and will benefit from watering in dry weather. This plant can spread vigorously once established; to help prevent this, cut the plant back after blooming has finished. Regular deadheading will increase bloom. This plant attracts bees and butterflies, and also makes an excellent choice for containers, borders, or as a ground cover.
Harvesting:
The edible leaves and flowers should be gathered when in full bloom for medicinal purposes. As with most herbs, it is best to harvest in the morning after the dew has lifted.
Seed Saving:
The flower spike will turn brown and dry while the seeds begin to form. Watch the plant carefully, since the seeds will soon blow away with the wind. Shake the ripe brown heads over a container to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Though self-heal is edible, it apparently has few traditional culinary uses. You may soak chopped fresh leaves or powdered dried leaves in cold water to make a somewhat refreshing beverage, but many tastier ones come to mind. The leaves have little flavor at first, but chewing them brings out a slight bitterness. You may serve the young shoots and leaves raw in salads, cooked as potherb, or added to soups and stews.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They can be used in salads, soups, stews etc. Somewhat bitter due to the presence of tannin in the leaves, though this can be removed by washing the leaves. A cold water infusion of the freshly chopped or dried and powdered leaves is used as a refreshing beverage. Very tasty.
Medicinal:
Self-heal has many common names, most attesting to its reputed curative powers. Hook-heal and sicklewort come from someone’s fanciful notion that the flower in profile resembles one of these tools. Others noted the flower’s resemblance to a mouth and throat, concluding (according to the doctrine of signatures) that it should be used to treat ailments of those parts. The unlikely name carpenter’s herb reflects the herb’s alleged power to “joine together and make whole and sound all wounds, both inward and outward.”
The origin of the generic name, Prunella, is in dispute. It might refer to the purple flowers, but herbalists cling to the theory that it is a variant of Brunella (in German, die Bräune—“the browns”), a kind of bad sore throat that sixteenth-century German soldiers contracted while “lying in camp”. Gerard (1633) described the symptoms as including a “ruggednesse, blacknesse, and drinesse of the tongue, with a kind of swelling in the same,” along with “a continuall ague and frensie.” Rugged, too, was the remedy: a decoction of self-heal taken “after blood letting out of the veins of the tongue” and followed by frequent washing of the mouth and tongue with the same decoction, “and sometimes a little vineger [sic] mixed therewith.” No mention is made of the cure rate. Today, the camp doctor would likely prescribe an antibiotic.
The tannins in self-heal that might have relieved a sore throat might also have been effective in healing wounds and sores. Gerard ranked self-heal and bugleweed (Ajuga sp.) as the two best wound herbs; both contain tannins. Taken internally, self-heal was also thought to alleviate eye inflammations and eyestrain. The American pharmacist and herbalist Ben Charles Harris recommended a decoction of self-heal to soothe the digestive tract during or following an attack of diarrhea.
Self-heal has also been traditionally used for headaches. Gerard noted, “Bruised with oile of Roses and Vinegar, and laied to the forepart of the head, [it] swageth and helpeth the paine and aking thereof.” Today, the herb is known to open up peripheral circulation by expanding blood vessels and thus is used occasionally by European herbalists in treatments for mild headache. However, other peripheral vasodilators such as yarrow, hawthorn, linden, and ephedra have largely replaced self-heal.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions for Heal All are Campanula, Veronica, & Creeping Phlox.
Other Uses:
An olive-green dye is obtained from the flowers and stems. The plant is a good ground-cover in sunny positions or light shade.
Hyssop
How to Grow Hyssop
Germination:
Direct sow in the fall, pressing the seed into the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting on the surface of the soil. To start indoors, plant on the surface of a flat with bottom heat of 70 degrees F and consistent moisture. Germination should take place within 6-10 days. As soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle and there is no chance of frost, they can be transplanted.
Crop Care:
Keep young seedlings watered. Medium to moist soil is best for this plant, but the plant is somewhat drought tolerant once it reaches maturity and adapts to many types of soil. Plants will bloom the second year from seed. It reseeds itself readily, so if volunteer plants are not wanted deadhead the faded flower spikes. This plant attracts bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
Harvesting:
Harvest leaves for fresh use as soon as they reach a desirable size. The best time for harvesting is the morning after the dew has dried. Though both the leaves and flowers can be used as an herb or a flavoring, the flavor of the leaves is stronger than that of the flowers. Entire stalks can be harvested as soon as the flowers begin to open, and hung upside down to dry; they should be dried quickly and away from direct sunlight. Once dried, remove the leaves and flowers from the stem and store in an airtight container.
Seed Saving:
In the late summer, the flowers will fade and the seeds begin to develop. Remove the stalks individually as they ripen, and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Shake them to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 40%
Culinary:
Hyssop has a slightly bitter minty flavor. The leaves can be sprinkled sparingly over salads or added to apple stews, pies or flans. A few leaves can be used in savory dishes such as rich stews and in marinades. The flowers can be used as an attractive garnish and in salads.
Do not use both the leaves and flowers to flavor the same dish as the stronger flavor of the leaves dominates that of the delicate flowers, which can be added just as decoration.
Leaves and young shoot tips: Raw or used as a flavoring in soups, salads etc. A strongly aromatic flavor, somewhat like a cross between sage and mint, it has fallen out of favor in recent years. It can be used fresh or dried.
Flowers: Raw. Added to salads. An essential oil from the plant is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Hyssop has a long history of medicinal use and was so highly esteemed in the past that it was considered to be a virtual cure-all. Currently an undervalued herb, it is often used as a household remedy, particularly as an expectorant and stomach tonic. It has a positive effect when used to treat bronchitis and respiratory infections, especially where there is excessive mucous production. Hyssop can irritate the mucous membranes, so it is best given after an infection has peaked, when the herb's tonic action encourages a general recovery. The plant should not be used by pregnant women, however, since in large quantities it can induce a miscarriage. The leaves and flowering tops are antiseptic, antitussive, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, pectoral, sedative, stimulant, stomachic, tonic and vasodilator. The plant can be harvested when in full flower and dried for later use. A tea made from the leaves is used in the treatment of flatulence, stomach-aches, upper respiratory tract infections, coughs in children etc. A poultice made from the fresh herb is used to heal wounds. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Stability". This oil should not be used on people who are highly strung as it can cause epileptic symptoms. The essential oil should not be used internally except under professional supervision.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Long standing tradition holds that a nearby planting of hyssop increases the yield of grapevines. It is also recommended for orchards because its flowers are a magnet for honeybees.
Companions: Plant hyssop around the feet of grapevines and between cabbages and its relatives (like broccoli and cauliflower). If you keep bees, plant hyssop near hive’ the collected nectar will flavor the honey. This perennial herb makes an attractive short evergreen hedge and is also a good in ornamental beds.
Enemies: According to folklore, radishes planted near hyssop will not thrive.
Other Uses:
Hyssop can be grown as a dwarf hedge, it responds well to trimming in the spring. An essential oil from the leaves is antiseptic and also used in perfumery and as a food flavoring. It has a particularly fine odor and is much valued by perfumers. Average yields of the oil are about 0.6%. Yields from the blue-flowered variety are 1 - 1.5% essential oil, the red-flowered variety yields about 0.8%, whilst the white-flowered form yields 0.5% essential oil. The plant was formerly used as a strewing herb and is also used in potpourri. A tea made from the leaves is useful for controlling bacterial plant diseases. Plants can be grown for ground cover when spaced about 45cm apart each way.
Direct sow in the fall, pressing the seed into the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seed with moist sand and store it in the refrigerator for 60 days before planting on the surface of the soil. To start indoors, plant on the surface of a flat with bottom heat of 70 degrees F and consistent moisture. Germination should take place within 6-10 days. As soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle and there is no chance of frost, they can be transplanted.
Crop Care:
Keep young seedlings watered. Medium to moist soil is best for this plant, but the plant is somewhat drought tolerant once it reaches maturity and adapts to many types of soil. Plants will bloom the second year from seed. It reseeds itself readily, so if volunteer plants are not wanted deadhead the faded flower spikes. This plant attracts bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
Harvesting:
Harvest leaves for fresh use as soon as they reach a desirable size. The best time for harvesting is the morning after the dew has dried. Though both the leaves and flowers can be used as an herb or a flavoring, the flavor of the leaves is stronger than that of the flowers. Entire stalks can be harvested as soon as the flowers begin to open, and hung upside down to dry; they should be dried quickly and away from direct sunlight. Once dried, remove the leaves and flowers from the stem and store in an airtight container.
Seed Saving:
In the late summer, the flowers will fade and the seeds begin to develop. Remove the stalks individually as they ripen, and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight. Shake them to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 40%
Culinary:
Hyssop has a slightly bitter minty flavor. The leaves can be sprinkled sparingly over salads or added to apple stews, pies or flans. A few leaves can be used in savory dishes such as rich stews and in marinades. The flowers can be used as an attractive garnish and in salads.
Do not use both the leaves and flowers to flavor the same dish as the stronger flavor of the leaves dominates that of the delicate flowers, which can be added just as decoration.
Leaves and young shoot tips: Raw or used as a flavoring in soups, salads etc. A strongly aromatic flavor, somewhat like a cross between sage and mint, it has fallen out of favor in recent years. It can be used fresh or dried.
Flowers: Raw. Added to salads. An essential oil from the plant is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Hyssop has a long history of medicinal use and was so highly esteemed in the past that it was considered to be a virtual cure-all. Currently an undervalued herb, it is often used as a household remedy, particularly as an expectorant and stomach tonic. It has a positive effect when used to treat bronchitis and respiratory infections, especially where there is excessive mucous production. Hyssop can irritate the mucous membranes, so it is best given after an infection has peaked, when the herb's tonic action encourages a general recovery. The plant should not be used by pregnant women, however, since in large quantities it can induce a miscarriage. The leaves and flowering tops are antiseptic, antitussive, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, pectoral, sedative, stimulant, stomachic, tonic and vasodilator. The plant can be harvested when in full flower and dried for later use. A tea made from the leaves is used in the treatment of flatulence, stomach-aches, upper respiratory tract infections, coughs in children etc. A poultice made from the fresh herb is used to heal wounds. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Stability". This oil should not be used on people who are highly strung as it can cause epileptic symptoms. The essential oil should not be used internally except under professional supervision.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Long standing tradition holds that a nearby planting of hyssop increases the yield of grapevines. It is also recommended for orchards because its flowers are a magnet for honeybees.
Companions: Plant hyssop around the feet of grapevines and between cabbages and its relatives (like broccoli and cauliflower). If you keep bees, plant hyssop near hive’ the collected nectar will flavor the honey. This perennial herb makes an attractive short evergreen hedge and is also a good in ornamental beds.
Enemies: According to folklore, radishes planted near hyssop will not thrive.
Other Uses:
Hyssop can be grown as a dwarf hedge, it responds well to trimming in the spring. An essential oil from the leaves is antiseptic and also used in perfumery and as a food flavoring. It has a particularly fine odor and is much valued by perfumers. Average yields of the oil are about 0.6%. Yields from the blue-flowered variety are 1 - 1.5% essential oil, the red-flowered variety yields about 0.8%, whilst the white-flowered form yields 0.5% essential oil. The plant was formerly used as a strewing herb and is also used in potpourri. A tea made from the leaves is useful for controlling bacterial plant diseases. Plants can be grown for ground cover when spaced about 45cm apart each way.
Lavender
How to Grow Lavender
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125" to 0.25". Cover very lightly.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 70°F
Transplant Outdoors:
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Lavender is a fairly adaptable plant and can withstand heat, drought, and frost.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 65°F to 80°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Lavender is more tolerant of cold weather than the other types and even tolerate snow. Plant outside once the soil is at least 50˚F.
Spacing: 12.0"-18.0", 1 plants per sq ft. Space the seedlings of this semi-dwarf plant 12 to 18" apart when large enough to handle.
Crop Care:
Lavender is a pretty independent plant when growing in the right conditions. It prefers a warm location and should be protected from strong winds.
Water Needs: Low. The young plants need watering regularly until they are well established. Older plants are very drought tolerant and don't need a lot of watering. Watering Lavender overhead can cause problems, so it wise to use drip irrigation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Lavender will do well in average soil.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 2 weeks. Lavender doesn't require constant watering, and will do well with only a little water every now and then.
Pruning: every 4 weeks. Lavender is pruned to keep a plant at the desired size and shape and to encourage vigorous new growth (old growth turns woody). This is usually done after flowering. Plants should be pruned regularly because you can only cut vigorous growth - if you cut into woody old growth it won't grow back grow well. Usually you simply cut 4 to 6" off the vigorously growing shoots, being sure not to cut down into woody parts. If you didn't harvest the flower stalks you should remove them in late summer, to stop the plant from wasting energy trying to produce seed.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Plants flower lightly in the first season and come into full bloom by their second summer.
Storage:
Cut tall spikes of flowers. Hand upside down in a dry, dark place. Lavender retains its aroma for a long time when dried.
Seed Saving:
Most Lavender varieties are propagated from hardwood or softwood cuttings, rather than being grown from seed.
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet fragrance.
Culinary Use: Lavender leaves and flowers can be made into a tea, and that tea can be used for the popular refreshment, Lavender Lemonade, or enjoyed as is. Leaves and flowers are also used to flavor meat and fish dishes.
Leaves, petals and flowering tips: raw. Used as a condiment in salads, soups, stews etc. They provide a very aromatic flavor and are too strong to be used in any quantity. The fresh or dried flowers are used as a tea. The fresh flowers are also crystallized or added to jams, ice-creams, vinegars, etc., as a flavoring. An essential oil from the flowers is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Lavender is a commonly used household herb, though it is better known for its sweet-scented aroma than for its medicinal qualities. However, it is an important relaxing herb, having a soothing and relaxing affect upon the nervous system. The flowering spikes can be dried and used internally in a tincture, though the extracted essential oil is more commonly used. The essential oil is much more gentle in its action than most other essential oils and can be safely applied direct to the skin as an antiseptic to help heal wounds, burns etc. An essential oil obtained from the flowers is antihalitosis, powerfully antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, cholagogue, diuretic, nervine, sedative, stimulant, stomachic and tonic. It is not often used internally, though it is a useful carminative and nervine. It is mainly used externally where it is an excellent restorative and tonic - when rubbed into the temples, for example, it can cure a nervous headache, and it is a delightful addition to the bath-water. Its powerful antiseptic properties are able to kill many of the common bacteria such as typhoid, diphtheria, streptococcus and Pneumococcus, as well as being a powerful antidote to some snake venoms. It is very useful in the treatment of burns, sunburn, scalds, bites, vaginal discharge, anal fissure etc, where it also soothes the affected part of the body and can prevent the formation of permanent scar tissue. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Immune system".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Lavender is very particular in its growing requirements. It needs full sun, little water, and little to no fertilizer. It’s usually happiest if left alone. This means that if you place it next to a plant that prefers more attention, one of them is going to suffer.
Some good plants to grow with lavender which share similar needs are: Echinacea, Aster, Sedum, Wild indigo, and Baby’s breath. Drought tolerant roses These companions for lavender perform well in full sun and dry, less-than-rich soil.
Gazania, another good choice, is a beautiful flowering plant from South Africa that fares especially well in poor, dry soils. Like lavender, it will really suffer if you pay too much attention to it. On top of being good companions for lavender based on their growing habits, these plants all also produce flowers that pair strikingly with its purple blossoms.
Some planting companions for lavender benefit greatly from having it nearby. Lavender is a natural repellant of moths, slugs, and deer. Any plants that suffer from these pests will benefit from having a lavender plant nearby. Fruit trees, in particular, which can be hit very hard by moths, tend to do much better when surrounded by lavender bushes. The same can be said for cabbage and broccoli, which often fall prey to slugs.
Other Uses:
The essential oil that is obtained from the flowers is exquisitely scented and has a very wide range of applications, both in the home and commercially. It is commonly used in soap making, in making high quality perfumes (it is also used in "Eau de Cologne"), it is also used as a detergent and cleaning agent, a food flavoring etc and as an insect repellent. When growing the plant for its essential oil content, it is best to harvest the flowering stems as soon as the flowers have faded. Yields of 0.8 - 1% of the oil are obtained. The aromatic leaves and flowers are used in potpourri and as an insect repellent in the linen cupboard etc. They have been used in the past as a strewing herb in order to impart a sweet smell to rooms and to deter insects. The leaves are also added to bath water for their fragrance and therapeutic properties. They are also said to repel mice. The flowering stems, once the flowers have been removed for use in pot-pourri etc, can be tied in small bundles and burnt as incense sticks. Lavender can be grown as a low hedge, responding well to trimming. There are several varieties, such as "Hidcote Variety", "Loddon Pink" and "Folgate Blue" that are suitable for using as dwarf hedges 30 - 50cm tall.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125" to 0.25". Cover very lightly.
Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 70°F
Transplant Outdoors:
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Lavender is a fairly adaptable plant and can withstand heat, drought, and frost.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 65°F to 80°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Lavender is more tolerant of cold weather than the other types and even tolerate snow. Plant outside once the soil is at least 50˚F.
Spacing: 12.0"-18.0", 1 plants per sq ft. Space the seedlings of this semi-dwarf plant 12 to 18" apart when large enough to handle.
Crop Care:
Lavender is a pretty independent plant when growing in the right conditions. It prefers a warm location and should be protected from strong winds.
Water Needs: Low. The young plants need watering regularly until they are well established. Older plants are very drought tolerant and don't need a lot of watering. Watering Lavender overhead can cause problems, so it wise to use drip irrigation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Lavender will do well in average soil.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 2 weeks. Lavender doesn't require constant watering, and will do well with only a little water every now and then.
Pruning: every 4 weeks. Lavender is pruned to keep a plant at the desired size and shape and to encourage vigorous new growth (old growth turns woody). This is usually done after flowering. Plants should be pruned regularly because you can only cut vigorous growth - if you cut into woody old growth it won't grow back grow well. Usually you simply cut 4 to 6" off the vigorously growing shoots, being sure not to cut down into woody parts. If you didn't harvest the flower stalks you should remove them in late summer, to stop the plant from wasting energy trying to produce seed.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Plants flower lightly in the first season and come into full bloom by their second summer.
Storage:
Cut tall spikes of flowers. Hand upside down in a dry, dark place. Lavender retains its aroma for a long time when dried.
Seed Saving:
Most Lavender varieties are propagated from hardwood or softwood cuttings, rather than being grown from seed.
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet fragrance.
Culinary Use: Lavender leaves and flowers can be made into a tea, and that tea can be used for the popular refreshment, Lavender Lemonade, or enjoyed as is. Leaves and flowers are also used to flavor meat and fish dishes.
Leaves, petals and flowering tips: raw. Used as a condiment in salads, soups, stews etc. They provide a very aromatic flavor and are too strong to be used in any quantity. The fresh or dried flowers are used as a tea. The fresh flowers are also crystallized or added to jams, ice-creams, vinegars, etc., as a flavoring. An essential oil from the flowers is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Lavender is a commonly used household herb, though it is better known for its sweet-scented aroma than for its medicinal qualities. However, it is an important relaxing herb, having a soothing and relaxing affect upon the nervous system. The flowering spikes can be dried and used internally in a tincture, though the extracted essential oil is more commonly used. The essential oil is much more gentle in its action than most other essential oils and can be safely applied direct to the skin as an antiseptic to help heal wounds, burns etc. An essential oil obtained from the flowers is antihalitosis, powerfully antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, cholagogue, diuretic, nervine, sedative, stimulant, stomachic and tonic. It is not often used internally, though it is a useful carminative and nervine. It is mainly used externally where it is an excellent restorative and tonic - when rubbed into the temples, for example, it can cure a nervous headache, and it is a delightful addition to the bath-water. Its powerful antiseptic properties are able to kill many of the common bacteria such as typhoid, diphtheria, streptococcus and Pneumococcus, as well as being a powerful antidote to some snake venoms. It is very useful in the treatment of burns, sunburn, scalds, bites, vaginal discharge, anal fissure etc, where it also soothes the affected part of the body and can prevent the formation of permanent scar tissue. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Immune system".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Lavender is very particular in its growing requirements. It needs full sun, little water, and little to no fertilizer. It’s usually happiest if left alone. This means that if you place it next to a plant that prefers more attention, one of them is going to suffer.
Some good plants to grow with lavender which share similar needs are: Echinacea, Aster, Sedum, Wild indigo, and Baby’s breath. Drought tolerant roses These companions for lavender perform well in full sun and dry, less-than-rich soil.
Gazania, another good choice, is a beautiful flowering plant from South Africa that fares especially well in poor, dry soils. Like lavender, it will really suffer if you pay too much attention to it. On top of being good companions for lavender based on their growing habits, these plants all also produce flowers that pair strikingly with its purple blossoms.
Some planting companions for lavender benefit greatly from having it nearby. Lavender is a natural repellant of moths, slugs, and deer. Any plants that suffer from these pests will benefit from having a lavender plant nearby. Fruit trees, in particular, which can be hit very hard by moths, tend to do much better when surrounded by lavender bushes. The same can be said for cabbage and broccoli, which often fall prey to slugs.
Other Uses:
The essential oil that is obtained from the flowers is exquisitely scented and has a very wide range of applications, both in the home and commercially. It is commonly used in soap making, in making high quality perfumes (it is also used in "Eau de Cologne"), it is also used as a detergent and cleaning agent, a food flavoring etc and as an insect repellent. When growing the plant for its essential oil content, it is best to harvest the flowering stems as soon as the flowers have faded. Yields of 0.8 - 1% of the oil are obtained. The aromatic leaves and flowers are used in potpourri and as an insect repellent in the linen cupboard etc. They have been used in the past as a strewing herb in order to impart a sweet smell to rooms and to deter insects. The leaves are also added to bath water for their fragrance and therapeutic properties. They are also said to repel mice. The flowering stems, once the flowers have been removed for use in pot-pourri etc, can be tied in small bundles and burnt as incense sticks. Lavender can be grown as a low hedge, responding well to trimming. There are several varieties, such as "Hidcote Variety", "Loddon Pink" and "Folgate Blue" that are suitable for using as dwarf hedges 30 - 50cm tall.
Lemongrass
How to Grow Lemongrass
Germination:
To achieve higher germination of your seeds, try making a soil mix containing equal parts of compost, sphagnum peat moss, and coarse sand. Sow your lemon grass seeds in seeds trays 1/8” deep and mist gently. Now place the seed tray in a plastic resealable bag to obtain the humidity required to germinate lemon grass. Since lemongrass doesn't require light to germinate, there is no need to waste any of your grow lights on them. Simply place the seed tray any dark with an air temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't forget to keep your seed mix moist by misting your seed trays daily. Germination usually occurs in 7-21 days. When you see signs that your seeds have sprouted, simply remove the seed tray from the plastic bag and place the tray in full sunlight. You will have healthy seedlings in 2-4 weeks.
Crop Care:
Transplant your lemongrass seedlings outdoors when temperatures are above 60 degrees. If you live in grow zones 7 or lower, you will want to grow your lemongrass in a container because you will have to over winter it indoors. If you live in zones 8 or 9 you can plant your lemongrass directly in the ground and it will become dormant in the winter. In zones 10 or higher, lemongrass is an evergreen perennial and can be grown in the ground as well. In either case, lemongrass will need a rich, loamy soil consisting of 4" of compost and 8" of soil which will provide nutrients and help retain moisture. You will need to dig a hole that is the same depth as the container your lemongrass is currently in but the width will need to be slightly larger. Now fill the hole with your soil mix leaving a hole in the center that is slightly deeper the size of the root ball you are transplanting. Be sure to space your lemongrass seedlings 36-48" apart on all sides. Now cover the hole with soil, and tap firmly around the plants base. Finally, be sure to water thoroughly to ensure the root ball depth has been reached.
Harvesting:
Perennial Harvesting:
Lemongrass is harvested for both the stalk and foliage. Begin harvesting your lemongrass when the plant reaches 12" in height or when the stalks are at least 1/4" thick. This can be done by breaking, cutting, or twisting off stalk as close to ground as you can due to the bottom of the stalk being where the most tender part is located. Cut, twist or break off a stalk that is at least 1/4 inch thick. You can begin removing the woody outer portion and the leaves of the stalks once you harvested the amount of lemongrass you need for the day. Now simply slice stalk where it is tender it is ready to be added to your recipes.
Annual Harvesting:
Lemongrass will need to be completely harvested in fall before the first frost in colder regions. Simply remove the foliage of the stalks and then break, twist, or cut them off. Be sure to compost the leaves, roots, and any discolored portions.
Propagation by Root Division:
Lemongrass is an incredibly fast grower. It will likely need to be divided by the next season after planting. When planted in a pot, thinning by division is required each growing season. For either potted or planted in ground Lemongrass, to divide the plant, trim the blades to two inches tall before division to make the process much easier. Dig up the plant root ball, and trim the roots to about an inch in length. With a very sharp shovel or blade cut through the clump of roots with one swift cut. Ideally, the divisions should to be about 6 inches in size, or bigger. Plant these divisions a minimum of 3 feet apart to accommodate these vigorous plants. Lemongrass can grow 3-6 feet tall, and 3 feet across.
Culinary:
Lemongrass is used as a culinary herb and is a popular flavoring for food in Asian cuisine. It has a subtle citrus flavor and can be used fresh, powdered, or dried. Lemongrass leaves and stems can jazz up your chicken and fish, soups, teas, sauces, and much more! An essential oil obtained from the plant is highly aromatic with a lemon-like aroma and flavor. It is often used by the food industry as a flavoring in foods such as ice creams, baked goods, oils, candies, chewing gum , and more! The dried leaves are often used as an aromatic herb tea.
Medicinal:
Lemongrass essential oil is produced by steam distillation of the freshly cut leaves, or can be extracted using alcohol. It is believed to help with stress-related disorders, and has been shown to have antifungal and antimicrobial properties. Cymbopogon flexuosus completely inhibits all MRSA colony growth.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Basil, Cilantro, Cucumber, Echinacea, Fennel, Marigolds, Mint, Onions, Peppers, Thyme, Tomatillo, and Tomato.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Spider mites can be a serious pest on indoor plants.
Other Uses:
Lemongrass is also used in essential oils and perfumes.
To achieve higher germination of your seeds, try making a soil mix containing equal parts of compost, sphagnum peat moss, and coarse sand. Sow your lemon grass seeds in seeds trays 1/8” deep and mist gently. Now place the seed tray in a plastic resealable bag to obtain the humidity required to germinate lemon grass. Since lemongrass doesn't require light to germinate, there is no need to waste any of your grow lights on them. Simply place the seed tray any dark with an air temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't forget to keep your seed mix moist by misting your seed trays daily. Germination usually occurs in 7-21 days. When you see signs that your seeds have sprouted, simply remove the seed tray from the plastic bag and place the tray in full sunlight. You will have healthy seedlings in 2-4 weeks.
Crop Care:
Transplant your lemongrass seedlings outdoors when temperatures are above 60 degrees. If you live in grow zones 7 or lower, you will want to grow your lemongrass in a container because you will have to over winter it indoors. If you live in zones 8 or 9 you can plant your lemongrass directly in the ground and it will become dormant in the winter. In zones 10 or higher, lemongrass is an evergreen perennial and can be grown in the ground as well. In either case, lemongrass will need a rich, loamy soil consisting of 4" of compost and 8" of soil which will provide nutrients and help retain moisture. You will need to dig a hole that is the same depth as the container your lemongrass is currently in but the width will need to be slightly larger. Now fill the hole with your soil mix leaving a hole in the center that is slightly deeper the size of the root ball you are transplanting. Be sure to space your lemongrass seedlings 36-48" apart on all sides. Now cover the hole with soil, and tap firmly around the plants base. Finally, be sure to water thoroughly to ensure the root ball depth has been reached.
Harvesting:
Perennial Harvesting:
Lemongrass is harvested for both the stalk and foliage. Begin harvesting your lemongrass when the plant reaches 12" in height or when the stalks are at least 1/4" thick. This can be done by breaking, cutting, or twisting off stalk as close to ground as you can due to the bottom of the stalk being where the most tender part is located. Cut, twist or break off a stalk that is at least 1/4 inch thick. You can begin removing the woody outer portion and the leaves of the stalks once you harvested the amount of lemongrass you need for the day. Now simply slice stalk where it is tender it is ready to be added to your recipes.
Annual Harvesting:
Lemongrass will need to be completely harvested in fall before the first frost in colder regions. Simply remove the foliage of the stalks and then break, twist, or cut them off. Be sure to compost the leaves, roots, and any discolored portions.
Propagation by Root Division:
Lemongrass is an incredibly fast grower. It will likely need to be divided by the next season after planting. When planted in a pot, thinning by division is required each growing season. For either potted or planted in ground Lemongrass, to divide the plant, trim the blades to two inches tall before division to make the process much easier. Dig up the plant root ball, and trim the roots to about an inch in length. With a very sharp shovel or blade cut through the clump of roots with one swift cut. Ideally, the divisions should to be about 6 inches in size, or bigger. Plant these divisions a minimum of 3 feet apart to accommodate these vigorous plants. Lemongrass can grow 3-6 feet tall, and 3 feet across.
Culinary:
Lemongrass is used as a culinary herb and is a popular flavoring for food in Asian cuisine. It has a subtle citrus flavor and can be used fresh, powdered, or dried. Lemongrass leaves and stems can jazz up your chicken and fish, soups, teas, sauces, and much more! An essential oil obtained from the plant is highly aromatic with a lemon-like aroma and flavor. It is often used by the food industry as a flavoring in foods such as ice creams, baked goods, oils, candies, chewing gum , and more! The dried leaves are often used as an aromatic herb tea.
Medicinal:
Lemongrass essential oil is produced by steam distillation of the freshly cut leaves, or can be extracted using alcohol. It is believed to help with stress-related disorders, and has been shown to have antifungal and antimicrobial properties. Cymbopogon flexuosus completely inhibits all MRSA colony growth.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Basil, Cilantro, Cucumber, Echinacea, Fennel, Marigolds, Mint, Onions, Peppers, Thyme, Tomatillo, and Tomato.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Spider mites can be a serious pest on indoor plants.
Other Uses:
Lemongrass is also used in essential oils and perfumes.
Lovage
How to Grow Lovage
Germination:
To start lovage indoors, plant the seeds 1/4" deep in a flat 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost. Germination usually occurs within 10-14 days, but can be longer. Keep the soil lightly moist with a spray bottle or careful watering, and keep the temperature cool for best results. When the seedlings are big enough to handle and there is no chance of frost, plant them 2-3' apart in rich soil and full sun or partial shade. To direct sow, plant 3-4 seeds in groups 2-3' apart and thin to the strongest seedling. Lovage can also be direct sown in the fall for early spring growth.
Crop Care:
Lovage thrives in moist soil, and needs regular watering especially when it is becoming established. Control weeds. A very hardy herb, lovage survives cold well but will need mulching in very cold winters. Since lovage easily reseeds itself, cut the flowering heads before they go to seed to prevent volunteer plants. Cutting back the stems will cause the growth of new and more abundant leaves. After several years of growth, lovage benefits from being dug up and divided; the plant grows well from root and stem cuttings, and parts of the extensive roots can then be harvested for culinary use.
Harvesting:
As soon as the plant reaches a height of 12", harvesting can begin. Harvest fresh leaves or stems as needed, taking the outer stems first; the best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried. Though fresh leaves and stems have the best flavor, they can also frozen; drying tends to deprive them of flavor. The roots, which are also edible, can be harvested in the spring or fall after the plant has been established and needs to be divided. Wash the roots, cut them into 1/2" pieces, and spread them out to dry for several weeks. The seeds, which are similar in flavor to celery seed, can be harvested as soon as the seed heads begin to dry and develop mature seed. Store the seed in an airtight container.
Seed Saving:
The perfect (having both male and female parts) flowers are pollinated by insects, but it is also self-fertile and produces seed easily. The seed will ripen on the umbel and you should wait until it turns brown and dries up. Gather the seeds before they fall to the ground.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 3 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
Similar to celery in use and flavor. However, many prefer Lovage over Celery.
Culinary Use:
Leaves and stems: raw or cooked. Used as a savory flavoring in salads, soups, stews etc, imparting a yeasty/celery flavor. The leaves can be used fresh or dried and are available from late winter until late autumn. To ensure a good supply of the leaves in the summer, it is best to cut the plants down to the ground when flowering in the summer. The young stem can be blanched and used like celery in salads or as a savory flavoring in cooked foods. A tea is made from the dried leaves. A strong savory flavor, it tastes more like a broth.
Seed: raw or cooked. A strong yeasty flavor, it is used as a flavoring in cakes, soups, salads etc. It can be used whole or ground into a powder.
Root: cooked. A strong savory taste, it can be used as a flavoring or cooked as a vegetable. It is best grated. Best used when 2 - 3 years old. A tea can also be made from the grated roots. An essential oil from the root is used commercially as a food flavoring. Yields of 0.5% are obtained.
Medicinal:
Lovage is a warming and tonic herb for the digestive and respiratory systems. It is used primarily in the treatment of indigestion, poor appetite, wind, colic and bronchitis. The roots, leaves and fruits are antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, mildly expectorant and stimulant. They are used internally in the treatment of disordered stomachs, especially cases of colic and flatulence in children, kidney stones, cystitis, painful menstruation and slow labor. Externally, the root is used in the treatment of sore throats and aphthous ulcers. The roots of plants 3 years old can be harvested in early spring or in the autumn and are used fresh or dried. The leaves are harvested before the plant comes into flower and either distilled for their oil or dried for later use. The leaves, either eaten in salads or dried and infused as a tea, have been used as an emmenagogue. The essential oil from the seeds is used by aromatherapists to remove freckles and spots from the face.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Lovage is recommended as a trap crop to lure tomato hornworms away from tomatoes’ handpick the pests or cut off and destroy infested foliage. The umbels of tiny greenish yellow flowers attract parasitic and predaceous insects to the garden, and the bushy plants provide shelter for predatory insects.
Companions: Lovage takes up quite a bit of room in the garden” A single plant may be all you need as a trap crop. Plant it at the back of the ornamental border for an eye catching accent.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
No serious disease or insect problems. Be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs, celery worms, and leaf miners.
Other Uses:
An essential oil from the plant is used in perfumery.
To start lovage indoors, plant the seeds 1/4" deep in a flat 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost. Germination usually occurs within 10-14 days, but can be longer. Keep the soil lightly moist with a spray bottle or careful watering, and keep the temperature cool for best results. When the seedlings are big enough to handle and there is no chance of frost, plant them 2-3' apart in rich soil and full sun or partial shade. To direct sow, plant 3-4 seeds in groups 2-3' apart and thin to the strongest seedling. Lovage can also be direct sown in the fall for early spring growth.
Crop Care:
Lovage thrives in moist soil, and needs regular watering especially when it is becoming established. Control weeds. A very hardy herb, lovage survives cold well but will need mulching in very cold winters. Since lovage easily reseeds itself, cut the flowering heads before they go to seed to prevent volunteer plants. Cutting back the stems will cause the growth of new and more abundant leaves. After several years of growth, lovage benefits from being dug up and divided; the plant grows well from root and stem cuttings, and parts of the extensive roots can then be harvested for culinary use.
Harvesting:
As soon as the plant reaches a height of 12", harvesting can begin. Harvest fresh leaves or stems as needed, taking the outer stems first; the best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried. Though fresh leaves and stems have the best flavor, they can also frozen; drying tends to deprive them of flavor. The roots, which are also edible, can be harvested in the spring or fall after the plant has been established and needs to be divided. Wash the roots, cut them into 1/2" pieces, and spread them out to dry for several weeks. The seeds, which are similar in flavor to celery seed, can be harvested as soon as the seed heads begin to dry and develop mature seed. Store the seed in an airtight container.
Seed Saving:
The perfect (having both male and female parts) flowers are pollinated by insects, but it is also self-fertile and produces seed easily. The seed will ripen on the umbel and you should wait until it turns brown and dries up. Gather the seeds before they fall to the ground.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 3 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
Similar to celery in use and flavor. However, many prefer Lovage over Celery.
Culinary Use:
Leaves and stems: raw or cooked. Used as a savory flavoring in salads, soups, stews etc, imparting a yeasty/celery flavor. The leaves can be used fresh or dried and are available from late winter until late autumn. To ensure a good supply of the leaves in the summer, it is best to cut the plants down to the ground when flowering in the summer. The young stem can be blanched and used like celery in salads or as a savory flavoring in cooked foods. A tea is made from the dried leaves. A strong savory flavor, it tastes more like a broth.
Seed: raw or cooked. A strong yeasty flavor, it is used as a flavoring in cakes, soups, salads etc. It can be used whole or ground into a powder.
Root: cooked. A strong savory taste, it can be used as a flavoring or cooked as a vegetable. It is best grated. Best used when 2 - 3 years old. A tea can also be made from the grated roots. An essential oil from the root is used commercially as a food flavoring. Yields of 0.5% are obtained.
Medicinal:
Lovage is a warming and tonic herb for the digestive and respiratory systems. It is used primarily in the treatment of indigestion, poor appetite, wind, colic and bronchitis. The roots, leaves and fruits are antispasmodic, aromatic, carminative, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, mildly expectorant and stimulant. They are used internally in the treatment of disordered stomachs, especially cases of colic and flatulence in children, kidney stones, cystitis, painful menstruation and slow labor. Externally, the root is used in the treatment of sore throats and aphthous ulcers. The roots of plants 3 years old can be harvested in early spring or in the autumn and are used fresh or dried. The leaves are harvested before the plant comes into flower and either distilled for their oil or dried for later use. The leaves, either eaten in salads or dried and infused as a tea, have been used as an emmenagogue. The essential oil from the seeds is used by aromatherapists to remove freckles and spots from the face.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Lovage is recommended as a trap crop to lure tomato hornworms away from tomatoes’ handpick the pests or cut off and destroy infested foliage. The umbels of tiny greenish yellow flowers attract parasitic and predaceous insects to the garden, and the bushy plants provide shelter for predatory insects.
Companions: Lovage takes up quite a bit of room in the garden” A single plant may be all you need as a trap crop. Plant it at the back of the ornamental border for an eye catching accent.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
No serious disease or insect problems. Be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs, celery worms, and leaf miners.
Other Uses:
An essential oil from the plant is used in perfumery.
Marjoram
How to Grow Marjoram
Germination:
In short growing seasons, start marjoram inside about a month before the last frost; sow the seeds just beneath the surface of the soil and keep evenly moist at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Germination can be very slow, taking up to 21 days.
Transplant well after the last frost, since marjoram cannot tolerate cold. Place the seedlings 10-12" apart in light, well drained soil and full sun.
Marjoram can also be direct sown after the last frost, planting the seeds 6-8" apart and thinning the seedlings to 10-12". Marjoram also grows very well as a container plant or houseplant.
Transplant outdoors, either with your own seedlings, starts purchased at the nursery, or cuttings from another plant.
When: Plant outdoors 2 to 4 weeks after last frost date.
How: Dig a hole 4 - 6" deep (depending on the container size). Gently squeeze the sides of the container to release the soil. Remove the plant and soil from the container and place into hole. Surround with additional soil, but don't bury the base of the plant. Give a good watering.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Marjoram prefers light, well-drained, moderately fertile soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly, but moderately.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 80°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before frost or sow seed directly after last frost, when soils have reached at least 60˚ F.
Spacing: 6.0"-8.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Plant 6 to 8" apart.
Crop Care:
Marjoram is pretty low maintenance as long as it has well-drained soil and sun. It pretty much looks after itself.
Water Needs: Low. Marjoram is adapted to a Mediterranean climate and suffers more from too much water than not enough.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Marjoram should be grown in soil that is lightly fertilized.
Watering: Water, 0.5 inch(es), every 2 weeks. Marjoram is very drought tolerant, but will grow best if it gets some water when the soil is drying out.
Pruning: 1 time. If the plant starts to get woody, cut it down to within a couple of inches of the ground. This will stimulate it to send up fresh new growth.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Wait until the plant has reached a height of 6 to 8" tall before picking leaves for use. Harvest leaves as desired. Leaves retain flavor well when dried; dry away from sun to preserve color and flavor. Store in an airtight container.
Storage:
Marjoram can be stored in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for 3 to 4 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Cut the shoots and leaves as you need them. Dry in a dark, cool place and keep in airtight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-65°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Pick fresh leaves and put in ice tray and cover with water.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Marjoram will self-seed if left alone.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Culinary:
Taste: Bold, deep flavor.
Culinary Use: Use Marjoram leaves dried or fresh in chili, tomato sauce, meats, and pizza.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Sweet marjoram is widely used as a flavoring for salad dressings, vegetables, legumes and oils. It has a more delicate flavor than the closely related oregano (Origanum vulgare), and is best when used fresh and only added towards the end of cooking. The aromatic seeds are used as a flavoring in sweets, drinks etc. A herb tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves. The flavor resembles a blend of thyme, rosemary and sage.
Medicinal:
Sweet marjoram is mainly used as a culinary herb, but is also medicinally valuable due to its stimulant and antispasmodic properties. It is a good general tonic, treating various disorders of the digestive and respiratory systems. It has a stronger affect on the nervous system than the related oregano (O. vulgare) and is also thought to lower the sex drive. Because it can promote menstruation, it should not be used medicinally by pregnant women though small quantities used for culinary purposes are safe. The herb is antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, stimulant, stomachic and mildly tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of bronchial complaints, tension headaches, insomnia, anxiety, minor digestive upsets and painful menstruation. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Externally, it is used to treat muscular pain, bronchial complaints, arthritis, sprains and stiff joints. The plant is harvested as flowering begins and can be used fresh or dried. Marjoram is often used medicinally in the form of the essential oil, about 400 grams being obtained from 70 kilos of the fresh herb. The oil is used as an external application for sprains, bruises etc. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Muscle relaxant".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Marjoram will increase yields of beans, asparagus, chives, eggplants, pumpkin, squash and cucumbers. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Root rot may occur in wet, poorly drained soils.
Other Uses:
The leaves and flowers yield 0.3 - 0.4% essential oil by steam distillation. Called "Oil of Sweet Marjoram", it is used as a food flavoring and in perfumery, soaps, hair products etc. The plant is often used to disinfect bee hives.
In short growing seasons, start marjoram inside about a month before the last frost; sow the seeds just beneath the surface of the soil and keep evenly moist at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Germination can be very slow, taking up to 21 days.
Transplant well after the last frost, since marjoram cannot tolerate cold. Place the seedlings 10-12" apart in light, well drained soil and full sun.
Marjoram can also be direct sown after the last frost, planting the seeds 6-8" apart and thinning the seedlings to 10-12". Marjoram also grows very well as a container plant or houseplant.
Transplant outdoors, either with your own seedlings, starts purchased at the nursery, or cuttings from another plant.
When: Plant outdoors 2 to 4 weeks after last frost date.
How: Dig a hole 4 - 6" deep (depending on the container size). Gently squeeze the sides of the container to release the soil. Remove the plant and soil from the container and place into hole. Surround with additional soil, but don't bury the base of the plant. Give a good watering.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Marjoram prefers light, well-drained, moderately fertile soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly, but moderately.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 80°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before frost or sow seed directly after last frost, when soils have reached at least 60˚ F.
Spacing: 6.0"-8.0", 4 plants per sq ft. Plant 6 to 8" apart.
Crop Care:
Marjoram is pretty low maintenance as long as it has well-drained soil and sun. It pretty much looks after itself.
Water Needs: Low. Marjoram is adapted to a Mediterranean climate and suffers more from too much water than not enough.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Marjoram should be grown in soil that is lightly fertilized.
Watering: Water, 0.5 inch(es), every 2 weeks. Marjoram is very drought tolerant, but will grow best if it gets some water when the soil is drying out.
Pruning: 1 time. If the plant starts to get woody, cut it down to within a couple of inches of the ground. This will stimulate it to send up fresh new growth.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Wait until the plant has reached a height of 6 to 8" tall before picking leaves for use. Harvest leaves as desired. Leaves retain flavor well when dried; dry away from sun to preserve color and flavor. Store in an airtight container.
Storage:
Marjoram can be stored in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for 3 to 4 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Cut the shoots and leaves as you need them. Dry in a dark, cool place and keep in airtight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-65°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Pick fresh leaves and put in ice tray and cover with water.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Marjoram will self-seed if left alone.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Culinary:
Taste: Bold, deep flavor.
Culinary Use: Use Marjoram leaves dried or fresh in chili, tomato sauce, meats, and pizza.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Sweet marjoram is widely used as a flavoring for salad dressings, vegetables, legumes and oils. It has a more delicate flavor than the closely related oregano (Origanum vulgare), and is best when used fresh and only added towards the end of cooking. The aromatic seeds are used as a flavoring in sweets, drinks etc. A herb tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves. The flavor resembles a blend of thyme, rosemary and sage.
Medicinal:
Sweet marjoram is mainly used as a culinary herb, but is also medicinally valuable due to its stimulant and antispasmodic properties. It is a good general tonic, treating various disorders of the digestive and respiratory systems. It has a stronger affect on the nervous system than the related oregano (O. vulgare) and is also thought to lower the sex drive. Because it can promote menstruation, it should not be used medicinally by pregnant women though small quantities used for culinary purposes are safe. The herb is antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, stimulant, stomachic and mildly tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of bronchial complaints, tension headaches, insomnia, anxiety, minor digestive upsets and painful menstruation. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Externally, it is used to treat muscular pain, bronchial complaints, arthritis, sprains and stiff joints. The plant is harvested as flowering begins and can be used fresh or dried. Marjoram is often used medicinally in the form of the essential oil, about 400 grams being obtained from 70 kilos of the fresh herb. The oil is used as an external application for sprains, bruises etc. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Muscle relaxant".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Marjoram will increase yields of beans, asparagus, chives, eggplants, pumpkin, squash and cucumbers. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Root rot may occur in wet, poorly drained soils.
Other Uses:
The leaves and flowers yield 0.3 - 0.4% essential oil by steam distillation. Called "Oil of Sweet Marjoram", it is used as a food flavoring and in perfumery, soaps, hair products etc. The plant is often used to disinfect bee hives.
Mint
How to Grow Mint
Germination:
Direct sow in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days at temperatures from 60-70 degrees F. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin or transplant for wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established, but do not overwater. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they will appreciate occasional watering in very dry weather. These plants will reseed themselves in favorable growing conditions, and are extremely attractive to bees, hummingbirds, and bees. Deer tend to avoid this plant.
Harvesting:
These flowers make an excellent choice for both fresh and dried floral arrangements. For fresh flowers, choose stems with blooms that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
When the flower spikes begin to dry and turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry; thresh them to remove the seed. Shaking the entire plant's seed heads into a container is also effective, but the process should be repeated daily until all the seed has matured. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are used as a flavoring in salads and cooked foods and also as a tea. They have a pleasant lemon flavor.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Hummingbird Garden Plants: Bergamot attracts hummingbirds with its red and pink blossoms and its tubular flowers that are naturally suited for a hummingbird's long beak. Other similar flowers include Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), with red and yellow flowers, or silver sage (Salvia argentea), with white flowers tinged with red. Both companions also thrive in full sun or partial shade in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Herbs: As a member of the mint family, bergamot leaves have a minty smell and make a pleasant, herbal tea. Bergamot adds color and height to an herb garden and should be planted near the center of the garden surrounded by your preference of shorter herbs grown as annuals, such as basil, thyme, chives and parsley. Add a perennial herb such as rosemary in USDA plant hardiness zones 7a through 11 for year-round interest in the garden bed.
Colors: Also grown in full sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, bright yellow daylilies would work well planted in the same garden bed with the warm colors of bergamot. For a contrasting accent, midnight blue agapanthus (Agapanthus x "Monmid") adds the cool-blue color in USDA plant hardiness zones 7b through 11.
Shapes: As a 6- to 8-inch ground cover growing around the base of bergamot, the light green leaves and multiple flowers of dwarf annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5a through 11 and come in a variety of colors. The blue-gray leaves of the perennial blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) contrast nicely in both shape and color with bergamot. Blue oat grass thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Problems:
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem with some of the monardas. Susceptibility to foliar diseases in general increases if plants are grown in dry soils or are allowed to dry out.
Other Uses:
An essential oil in the leaves contains a phenol and a citral. No more information is given, though the oil is likely to have medicinal activity and perhaps be suitable for perfumery etc. The essential oil citronellal, used as an insect repellent and in perfumery, is obtained from this plant.
Direct sow in early spring, planting on the surface of the soil since this seed needs light to germinate. Keep the soil lightly moist until germination, which should occur within 10-20 days at temperatures from 60-70 degrees F. When the seedlings can safely be handled, thin or transplant for wider spacing. For an early start, start the seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and transplant outdoors.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings until they become established, but do not overwater. Mature plants tolerate drought well, though they will appreciate occasional watering in very dry weather. These plants will reseed themselves in favorable growing conditions, and are extremely attractive to bees, hummingbirds, and bees. Deer tend to avoid this plant.
Harvesting:
These flowers make an excellent choice for both fresh and dried floral arrangements. For fresh flowers, choose stems with blooms that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
When the flower spikes begin to dry and turn brown, remove them and spread them out to dry; thresh them to remove the seed. Shaking the entire plant's seed heads into a container is also effective, but the process should be repeated daily until all the seed has matured. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are used as a flavoring in salads and cooked foods and also as a tea. They have a pleasant lemon flavor.
Companion Planting:
Companion planting is an excellent practice for any skill level of gardener. By using the natural substances contained within a plant’s roots your garden can both repel unwanted insects and attract those with useful traits. Companion planting can also be used to group flowers that prefer similar conditions.
Using companion plants as a border, backdrop, or interplanting in your garden beds will allow you to harness the ecosystem to its full potential. It is best to use plants native to your area so that the insects you seek to attract will know what to look for!
Hummingbird Garden Plants: Bergamot attracts hummingbirds with its red and pink blossoms and its tubular flowers that are naturally suited for a hummingbird's long beak. Other similar flowers include Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), with red and yellow flowers, or silver sage (Salvia argentea), with white flowers tinged with red. Both companions also thrive in full sun or partial shade in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Herbs: As a member of the mint family, bergamot leaves have a minty smell and make a pleasant, herbal tea. Bergamot adds color and height to an herb garden and should be planted near the center of the garden surrounded by your preference of shorter herbs grown as annuals, such as basil, thyme, chives and parsley. Add a perennial herb such as rosemary in USDA plant hardiness zones 7a through 11 for year-round interest in the garden bed.
Colors: Also grown in full sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, bright yellow daylilies would work well planted in the same garden bed with the warm colors of bergamot. For a contrasting accent, midnight blue agapanthus (Agapanthus x "Monmid") adds the cool-blue color in USDA plant hardiness zones 7b through 11.
Shapes: As a 6- to 8-inch ground cover growing around the base of bergamot, the light green leaves and multiple flowers of dwarf annual phlox (Phlox drummondii) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5a through 11 and come in a variety of colors. The blue-gray leaves of the perennial blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) contrast nicely in both shape and color with bergamot. Blue oat grass thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 10b.
Problems:
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem with some of the monardas. Susceptibility to foliar diseases in general increases if plants are grown in dry soils or are allowed to dry out.
Other Uses:
An essential oil in the leaves contains a phenol and a citral. No more information is given, though the oil is likely to have medicinal activity and perhaps be suitable for perfumery etc. The essential oil citronellal, used as an insect repellent and in perfumery, is obtained from this plant.
Monkshood
How to Grow Monkshood
Germination:
If you want to start indoors for a spring planting, Aconite seeds needs a cold treatment. Place flower seeds in water or moistened soil and freeze for three weeks. After the cold treatment, sow the Monkshood flower seeds in soil blocks. Keep seeds moist until germination occurs which should be in 14-28 days.
Monkshood prefers sun, but can tolerate some shade and grows well where the summer is not too hot. The hotter the summer, the more shade it needs, but beware; the more shady the area, the more likely your monkshood plant will need staking. Try a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade for best results. Sow two to three seeds per plant 1/8" deep in average and moist, but well drained soil 24-30" apart. If the soil is too rich, the plants will become leggy and if it holds too much water, the fragile roots will drown.
Crop Care:
Water: Once established, monkshood is able to withstand short periods of drought, but for robust plants, provide a moist soil or water regularly.
Fertilizer: Feeding always depends on the quality of your soil. Definitely start with a rich soil, high in organic matter. Side dress with compost and some organic fertilizer each spring.
Maintenance: Monkshood are very low maintenance plants. Since these are late season bloomers and they do not repeat bloom, you won’t really need to deadhead.
The plants will die back to the ground at frost. I don’t cut mine back until spring.
Culinary:
Some reports suggest the root is edible if cooked, but these should be treated with extreme caution due to the highly toxic nature of the plant.
Medicinal:
Aconite has been used since ancient times, especially as an antidote to poisoning. Since the entire plant is itself very toxic, however, any use should be under the guidance of a skilled practitioner. All parts of the plant are used medicinally. The root is the most important and this is harvested as soon as the plant dies down in the autumn and is dried before use. The other parts of the plant are less important and are used fresh, being harvested when the plant is coming into flower. The root is analgesic, anodyne, antirheumatic, diaphoretic, diuretic, irritant and sedative. Due to its poisonous nature, it is not normally used internally though it has been used in the treatment of fevers. Externally, it is applied to unbroken skin in the treatment of rheumatism, painful bruises, neuralgia etc. All parts of the plant, except the root, are harvested when the plant is in flower and used to make a homeopathic medicine. This is analgesic and sedative and is used especially in the treatment of fevers, inflammation, bronchitis, neuralgia etc.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Coneflower, Daylily, & Russian Sage.
If you want to start indoors for a spring planting, Aconite seeds needs a cold treatment. Place flower seeds in water or moistened soil and freeze for three weeks. After the cold treatment, sow the Monkshood flower seeds in soil blocks. Keep seeds moist until germination occurs which should be in 14-28 days.
Monkshood prefers sun, but can tolerate some shade and grows well where the summer is not too hot. The hotter the summer, the more shade it needs, but beware; the more shady the area, the more likely your monkshood plant will need staking. Try a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade for best results. Sow two to three seeds per plant 1/8" deep in average and moist, but well drained soil 24-30" apart. If the soil is too rich, the plants will become leggy and if it holds too much water, the fragile roots will drown.
Crop Care:
Water: Once established, monkshood is able to withstand short periods of drought, but for robust plants, provide a moist soil or water regularly.
Fertilizer: Feeding always depends on the quality of your soil. Definitely start with a rich soil, high in organic matter. Side dress with compost and some organic fertilizer each spring.
Maintenance: Monkshood are very low maintenance plants. Since these are late season bloomers and they do not repeat bloom, you won’t really need to deadhead.
The plants will die back to the ground at frost. I don’t cut mine back until spring.
Culinary:
Some reports suggest the root is edible if cooked, but these should be treated with extreme caution due to the highly toxic nature of the plant.
Medicinal:
Aconite has been used since ancient times, especially as an antidote to poisoning. Since the entire plant is itself very toxic, however, any use should be under the guidance of a skilled practitioner. All parts of the plant are used medicinally. The root is the most important and this is harvested as soon as the plant dies down in the autumn and is dried before use. The other parts of the plant are less important and are used fresh, being harvested when the plant is coming into flower. The root is analgesic, anodyne, antirheumatic, diaphoretic, diuretic, irritant and sedative. Due to its poisonous nature, it is not normally used internally though it has been used in the treatment of fevers. Externally, it is applied to unbroken skin in the treatment of rheumatism, painful bruises, neuralgia etc. All parts of the plant, except the root, are harvested when the plant is in flower and used to make a homeopathic medicine. This is analgesic and sedative and is used especially in the treatment of fevers, inflammation, bronchitis, neuralgia etc.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Coneflower, Daylily, & Russian Sage.
Motherwort
How to Grow Motherwort
Germination:
If starting from seed or transplants, it is necessary to cold stratify seeds for a few weeks prior to planting. This is simply a measure to trick seeds into thinking that they have just experienced winter and the time has come to sprout.
To cold stratify seeds, soak for 12-24 hours and then put them in a plastic bag filled with sand and peat. Seal the bag and place it in the refrigerator for 10 days, checking regularly for moisture and spritzing lightly if the mix becomes dry.
Sow 2-3 seeds per containers indoors or broadcast seeds in late spring and cover with a very thin 1/8-inch layer of soil. Light and soil moisture are both required for germination. They should sprout in 10-21 days, and strong seedlings can be thinned to 2-3 feet apart.
You can also choose to sow seeds directly in the garden in late fall. This way, there is no need to cold stratify your seeds first, as the cold winter weather will take care of this process for you in most growing zones.
Crop Care:
This hardy perennial can grow in many different conditions, but look for a spot with well draining soil, and amend beds or containers with compost before planting. It is also adaptable to most soil types, though moist, rich soil with a slightly alkaline pH of 7.7 is ideal. Motherwort grows well in any type of light. You can plant it wherever you have room, whether your chosen location is in full sun or bathed in shade. Dig a hole twice the width of the roots, spread the rhizome out and gently place it in the hole. Cover it up with soil until the hole is filled in and water well. Keep plants spaced at least 2' apart. While it is helpful to keep this herb watered well while it is young, once established, it is hardy and drought tolerant. Even better, it is also very rarely affected by pests or disease. Motherwort is a vigorous grower, and care must be taken to ensure that it doesn’t spread more than desired so be sure to grow it in a container or raised garden bed. To prevent self seeding, cut foliage back to 3-5 inches after flowering and before the seeds have a chance to mature. This keeps the plant from going to seed and spreading everywhere.
Harvesting:
The ideal time to harvest motherwort is in early to midsummer, just as the plant is beginning to flower. But you can also harvest the large, soft leaves in the pre-flowering stage. Cut and collect the top third of the stems, including the leaves, flowers, and buds. Once the herb has finished flowering, it quickly loses its vitality. You will notice that the leaves suddenly seem to look thin and brown, and you will have to wait until next season to harvest more. Don’t forget your gloves and pruning shears! The flower stalks can be a bit prickly.
Culinary:
Edible Uses:
The fresh or dried flowers can be used as a flavoring in soups, particularly lentil or split pea. They are also used as a flavoring in beer. Fresh or dried flowers can be used to make a tea.
Tea recipe:
1 TSP. Motherwort leaves (dried) per 1 cup of boiling water. Drink it as is or add a sweetener such as honey if you prefer to sweeten your tea.
Medicinal:
Motherwort is especially valuable in the treatment of female weaknesses and disorders, allaying nervous irritability, inducing quiet and passivity of the whole nervous system. It is also seen as a remedy for heart palpitations, it has a strengthening effect, especially on a weak heart. The antispasmodic and sedative effects promote relaxation rather than drowsiness. The leaves are antispasmodic, astringent, cardiac, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, nervine, sedative, stomachic, tonic and uterine stimulant. They are taken internally in the treatment of heart complaints (notably palpitations) and problems associated with menstruation, childbirth and menopause, especially of nervous origin. Although an infusion can be used, the taste is so bitter that the plant is usually made into a conserve or syrup. An alcoholic extract is said to possess superior action to valerian (Valeriana officinalis). The plant has been found effective in the treatment of functional heart complaints due to autonomic imbalance, and also as an anti-thyroid treatment, though it needs to be taken for several months for these effects to be noticed. The whole herb is harvested in August when in flower and can be dried for later use. It should not be prescribed in the earlier stages of pregnancy or where periods are heavy. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of heart complaints, amenorrhoea, menopausal problems and flatulence.
Known hazards: Skin contact with this plant can cause dermatitis in susceptible people. The fragrant essential oil can cause photosensitization. Grazing animals can have their mouths injured by the sharp teeth of the calyces.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
If starting from seed or transplants, it is necessary to cold stratify seeds for a few weeks prior to planting. This is simply a measure to trick seeds into thinking that they have just experienced winter and the time has come to sprout.
To cold stratify seeds, soak for 12-24 hours and then put them in a plastic bag filled with sand and peat. Seal the bag and place it in the refrigerator for 10 days, checking regularly for moisture and spritzing lightly if the mix becomes dry.
Sow 2-3 seeds per containers indoors or broadcast seeds in late spring and cover with a very thin 1/8-inch layer of soil. Light and soil moisture are both required for germination. They should sprout in 10-21 days, and strong seedlings can be thinned to 2-3 feet apart.
You can also choose to sow seeds directly in the garden in late fall. This way, there is no need to cold stratify your seeds first, as the cold winter weather will take care of this process for you in most growing zones.
Crop Care:
This hardy perennial can grow in many different conditions, but look for a spot with well draining soil, and amend beds or containers with compost before planting. It is also adaptable to most soil types, though moist, rich soil with a slightly alkaline pH of 7.7 is ideal. Motherwort grows well in any type of light. You can plant it wherever you have room, whether your chosen location is in full sun or bathed in shade. Dig a hole twice the width of the roots, spread the rhizome out and gently place it in the hole. Cover it up with soil until the hole is filled in and water well. Keep plants spaced at least 2' apart. While it is helpful to keep this herb watered well while it is young, once established, it is hardy and drought tolerant. Even better, it is also very rarely affected by pests or disease. Motherwort is a vigorous grower, and care must be taken to ensure that it doesn’t spread more than desired so be sure to grow it in a container or raised garden bed. To prevent self seeding, cut foliage back to 3-5 inches after flowering and before the seeds have a chance to mature. This keeps the plant from going to seed and spreading everywhere.
Harvesting:
The ideal time to harvest motherwort is in early to midsummer, just as the plant is beginning to flower. But you can also harvest the large, soft leaves in the pre-flowering stage. Cut and collect the top third of the stems, including the leaves, flowers, and buds. Once the herb has finished flowering, it quickly loses its vitality. You will notice that the leaves suddenly seem to look thin and brown, and you will have to wait until next season to harvest more. Don’t forget your gloves and pruning shears! The flower stalks can be a bit prickly.
Culinary:
Edible Uses:
The fresh or dried flowers can be used as a flavoring in soups, particularly lentil or split pea. They are also used as a flavoring in beer. Fresh or dried flowers can be used to make a tea.
Tea recipe:
1 TSP. Motherwort leaves (dried) per 1 cup of boiling water. Drink it as is or add a sweetener such as honey if you prefer to sweeten your tea.
Medicinal:
Motherwort is especially valuable in the treatment of female weaknesses and disorders, allaying nervous irritability, inducing quiet and passivity of the whole nervous system. It is also seen as a remedy for heart palpitations, it has a strengthening effect, especially on a weak heart. The antispasmodic and sedative effects promote relaxation rather than drowsiness. The leaves are antispasmodic, astringent, cardiac, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, nervine, sedative, stomachic, tonic and uterine stimulant. They are taken internally in the treatment of heart complaints (notably palpitations) and problems associated with menstruation, childbirth and menopause, especially of nervous origin. Although an infusion can be used, the taste is so bitter that the plant is usually made into a conserve or syrup. An alcoholic extract is said to possess superior action to valerian (Valeriana officinalis). The plant has been found effective in the treatment of functional heart complaints due to autonomic imbalance, and also as an anti-thyroid treatment, though it needs to be taken for several months for these effects to be noticed. The whole herb is harvested in August when in flower and can be dried for later use. It should not be prescribed in the earlier stages of pregnancy or where periods are heavy. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of heart complaints, amenorrhoea, menopausal problems and flatulence.
Known hazards: Skin contact with this plant can cause dermatitis in susceptible people. The fragrant essential oil can cause photosensitization. Grazing animals can have their mouths injured by the sharp teeth of the calyces.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Oregano
How to Grow Oregano
Germination:
Start the seeds indoors about 2 months before the last spring frost, sowing them just below the surface of the soil and keeping the temperature at 65-70 degrees F. Provide at least six hours of sunlight, and keep the soil moist when the seedlings appear. Transplant them as soon as they grow big enough to handle or after the last chance of frost, spacing them 12-15" apart. Oregano thrives in fairly dry soil and full sun. To direct sow, plant seeds and thin the seedlings to 12-15" apart. As a companion plant, Greek oregano repels the harmful cabbage butterfly. This herb also grows well as a container plant.
Transplant them as soon as they grow big enough to handle or after the last chance of frost, spacing them 12-15" apart. Oregano thrives in fairly dry soil and full sun. Oregano actually has the most flavorful taste if left alone, with minimal watering and no fertilization. For the best tasting leaves, keep the tops pruned to prevent flowering and to keep the leaves tender.
Crop Care:
Oregano is pretty low maintenance as long as it has well-drained soil and sun. It pretty much looks after itself.
Water Needs: Low. Oregano is adapted to a Mediterranean climate and suffers more from too much water than not enough.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Oregano should be grown in soil that is lightly fertilized.
Watering: Water 0.5" every 2 weeks. Oregano is very drought tolerant, but will grow best if it gets some water when the soil is drying out.
Pruning: 1 time. If the plant starts to get woody, cut it down to within a couple of inches of the ground. This will stimulate it to send up fresh new growth.
Harvesting:
Oregano is very easy to harvest, and you can begin picking leaves once your plants get 4-5 inches tall.
You can pick off individual leaves as needed, but the best way to harvest oregano is to cut off whole sprigs. Use a clean pair of scissors or garden clippers to snip off sprigs of any length. Make your cut right above a set of leaves so that the plant can regrow.
If you want to do a large harvest, oregano is most flavorful right before the plants bloom. This is the best time to pick leaves for drying if you want to store oregano.
You can harvest oregano pretty heavily, but always leave a good 3-4 inches of the plant intact so that it can recover.
Oregano flowers are also edible and have a milder flavor that works well in fresh salads. Clip some off when they open, but don’t forget to leave some for the bees!StorageTo dry your oregano, harvest long stems right before the plants bloom. Rinse the stems off well under cool water or swish them around in a bowl full of water. Let them air dry on a towel for an hour or two before continuing.
Storage:
To dry your oregano, harvest long stems right before the plants bloom. Rinse the stems off well under cool water or swish them around in a bowl full of water. Let them air dry on a towel for an hour or two before continuing.
Next, either tie your oregano stems into small bundles or lay them out flat on a wire rack. The bundles can be hung up to dry and covered with a paper bag that has air slits to catch any falling leaves.
Place the herbs somewhere warm, dry, and out of direct sunlight. With good air circulation and low humidity, the leaves will only take a few weeks to dry completely.
Once the leaves are crisp and crumbly, take them off the stems (but try to keep them whole) and store in airtight containers. Kept in a cool, dark location, dried oregano will retain its flavor for 6 months or longer.
Seed Saving:
Harvest the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to turn brown and dry, and spread them out to finish drying in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh out the seeds by rubbing or shaking the heads, and remove as much chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 year
Culinary:
Taste: Bold, deep flavor.
Culinary Use: Use oregano leaves dried or fresh in chili, tomato sauce, meats, and pizza.
Leaves: raw or cooked as a potherb. Oregano is an important flavoring herb in Mediterranean cookery, and is often used dried rather than fresh. This sub-species has a much stronger flavor than the type. The leaves are used as a flavoring for salad dressings, vegetables and legumes, and are frequently included in strongly flavored dishes with chilli's, garlic, onions etc. A nutritional analysis is available. Much of the commercially available dried oregano does not come from this plant but from a number of different, often unrelated plants. These include Lippia graveolens, L. palmeri and Origanum syriacum. A herb tea is made from the dried leaves and flowering stems.
Medicinal:
Oregano has been used as a culinary and medicinal herb for thousands of years. It has a beneficial effect upon the digestive and respiratory systems and is also used to promote menstruation. It should not be used medicinally by pregnant women though it is perfectly safe in small amounts for culinary purposes. The leaves and flowering stems are strongly antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, stimulant, stomachic and mildly tonic. The plant is taken internally in the treatment of colds, influenza, mild feverish illnesses, indigestion, stomach upsets and painful menstruation. It is strongly sedative and should not be taken in large doses, though mild teas have a soothing effect and aid restful sleep. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Externally, oregano is used to treat bronchitis, asthma, arthritis and muscular pain. The plant can be used fresh or dried - harvest the whole plant (but not the roots) in late summer to dry and store for winter use. Oregano is often used in the form of an essential oil that is distilled from the flowering plant. A few drops of the essential oil, put on cotton wool and placed in the hollow of an aching tooth, frequently relieves the pain of toothache. This plant is one of the best natural antiseptics because of its high thymol content. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy to treat the same kinds of complaints that the herb is used for.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.
Other Uses:
An essential oil from the plant is used as a food flavoring, in soaps and perfumery. A red or purple dye is obtained from the flowering tops, it is neither brilliant nor durable. The plant repels ants. A useful ground cover for sunny positions, forming a slowly spreading clump.
Start the seeds indoors about 2 months before the last spring frost, sowing them just below the surface of the soil and keeping the temperature at 65-70 degrees F. Provide at least six hours of sunlight, and keep the soil moist when the seedlings appear. Transplant them as soon as they grow big enough to handle or after the last chance of frost, spacing them 12-15" apart. Oregano thrives in fairly dry soil and full sun. To direct sow, plant seeds and thin the seedlings to 12-15" apart. As a companion plant, Greek oregano repels the harmful cabbage butterfly. This herb also grows well as a container plant.
Transplant them as soon as they grow big enough to handle or after the last chance of frost, spacing them 12-15" apart. Oregano thrives in fairly dry soil and full sun. Oregano actually has the most flavorful taste if left alone, with minimal watering and no fertilization. For the best tasting leaves, keep the tops pruned to prevent flowering and to keep the leaves tender.
Crop Care:
Oregano is pretty low maintenance as long as it has well-drained soil and sun. It pretty much looks after itself.
Water Needs: Low. Oregano is adapted to a Mediterranean climate and suffers more from too much water than not enough.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Oregano should be grown in soil that is lightly fertilized.
Watering: Water 0.5" every 2 weeks. Oregano is very drought tolerant, but will grow best if it gets some water when the soil is drying out.
Pruning: 1 time. If the plant starts to get woody, cut it down to within a couple of inches of the ground. This will stimulate it to send up fresh new growth.
Harvesting:
Oregano is very easy to harvest, and you can begin picking leaves once your plants get 4-5 inches tall.
You can pick off individual leaves as needed, but the best way to harvest oregano is to cut off whole sprigs. Use a clean pair of scissors or garden clippers to snip off sprigs of any length. Make your cut right above a set of leaves so that the plant can regrow.
If you want to do a large harvest, oregano is most flavorful right before the plants bloom. This is the best time to pick leaves for drying if you want to store oregano.
You can harvest oregano pretty heavily, but always leave a good 3-4 inches of the plant intact so that it can recover.
Oregano flowers are also edible and have a milder flavor that works well in fresh salads. Clip some off when they open, but don’t forget to leave some for the bees!StorageTo dry your oregano, harvest long stems right before the plants bloom. Rinse the stems off well under cool water or swish them around in a bowl full of water. Let them air dry on a towel for an hour or two before continuing.
Storage:
To dry your oregano, harvest long stems right before the plants bloom. Rinse the stems off well under cool water or swish them around in a bowl full of water. Let them air dry on a towel for an hour or two before continuing.
Next, either tie your oregano stems into small bundles or lay them out flat on a wire rack. The bundles can be hung up to dry and covered with a paper bag that has air slits to catch any falling leaves.
Place the herbs somewhere warm, dry, and out of direct sunlight. With good air circulation and low humidity, the leaves will only take a few weeks to dry completely.
Once the leaves are crisp and crumbly, take them off the stems (but try to keep them whole) and store in airtight containers. Kept in a cool, dark location, dried oregano will retain its flavor for 6 months or longer.
Seed Saving:
Harvest the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to turn brown and dry, and spread them out to finish drying in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh out the seeds by rubbing or shaking the heads, and remove as much chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 year
Culinary:
Taste: Bold, deep flavor.
Culinary Use: Use oregano leaves dried or fresh in chili, tomato sauce, meats, and pizza.
Leaves: raw or cooked as a potherb. Oregano is an important flavoring herb in Mediterranean cookery, and is often used dried rather than fresh. This sub-species has a much stronger flavor than the type. The leaves are used as a flavoring for salad dressings, vegetables and legumes, and are frequently included in strongly flavored dishes with chilli's, garlic, onions etc. A nutritional analysis is available. Much of the commercially available dried oregano does not come from this plant but from a number of different, often unrelated plants. These include Lippia graveolens, L. palmeri and Origanum syriacum. A herb tea is made from the dried leaves and flowering stems.
Medicinal:
Oregano has been used as a culinary and medicinal herb for thousands of years. It has a beneficial effect upon the digestive and respiratory systems and is also used to promote menstruation. It should not be used medicinally by pregnant women though it is perfectly safe in small amounts for culinary purposes. The leaves and flowering stems are strongly antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, stimulant, stomachic and mildly tonic. The plant is taken internally in the treatment of colds, influenza, mild feverish illnesses, indigestion, stomach upsets and painful menstruation. It is strongly sedative and should not be taken in large doses, though mild teas have a soothing effect and aid restful sleep. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Externally, oregano is used to treat bronchitis, asthma, arthritis and muscular pain. The plant can be used fresh or dried - harvest the whole plant (but not the roots) in late summer to dry and store for winter use. Oregano is often used in the form of an essential oil that is distilled from the flowering plant. A few drops of the essential oil, put on cotton wool and placed in the hollow of an aching tooth, frequently relieves the pain of toothache. This plant is one of the best natural antiseptics because of its high thymol content. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy to treat the same kinds of complaints that the herb is used for.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.
Other Uses:
An essential oil from the plant is used as a food flavoring, in soaps and perfumery. A red or purple dye is obtained from the flowering tops, it is neither brilliant nor durable. The plant repels ants. A useful ground cover for sunny positions, forming a slowly spreading clump.
Peppercorn
How to Grow Peppercorn
Germination:
When: 6 weeks before last frost date
Germinating Peppercorn Seeds Indoors:
1) Soak your seeds in warm water for 24 hours.
2) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
3) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
4) Press seeds into the soil 1/4" add a label with the plant name and date.
5) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70°F.
6) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop.
Temperature: 70°F.
Average Germ Time: 30 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: 1/4"
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a loamy soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots for Indoors
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a loamy soil mix.
2) Place your container indoors somewhere in a moderate light area such as a western facing windowsill in temperatures above 60°F.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Peppercorn prefers a damp, rich and loamy, good draining soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 in an area that offers full sun-semi shade. 6 to 8 hours of indirect sunlight per day.
When outdoor temp: 65˚F to 95˚F.
Spacing: 3"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Light: If you are growing your Peppercorn indoors, it will need a very bright light. If you are growing it outdoors or in a greenhouse, it will need partial shade.
Soil: Peppercorn needs a damp, rich and loamy, good draining soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Avoid heavy clay soils, they can cause root rot.
Water: Do not let the the soil of your Peppercorn dry out. If the soil surface is dry to the touch, it needs to be watered. Do not over water.
Temperature and Humidity: Peppercorn prefer an area with 50% humidity with bright light. For this reason, bathrooms and kitchens are an ideal location for this variety. This plant will stop growing if temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer: The Peppercorn is a light feeder and should be fertilized in the spring when growth will increase. This plant requires a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer which should be used every 2 weeks throughout the summer. Add 1/4 Tsp. per gallon water. Discontinue feeding your plants through the fall and winter to prevent burning them. The growth of your plant will begin to slow at this time and the need for fertilization declines drastically.
Pruning: You may want to prune your Peppercorn in order to remove any dead foliage or to control plant growth in small spaces.
Harvesting:
As the fruit matures, the corn color changes from green to red. When the corns have turned red, they are ready to be harvested.
Green corns: If you would like to opt out of this plants spiciness, you can pickle the corns when they are green.
Black Corns: Black peppercorns are the result of red ripe berries drying out.
White Corns: is the result of when a mature fruit (completely red) is picked and its husk is removed.
Seed Saving:
When the fruit matures, the corn color changes from green to red. When the corns have turned red, they are ready to be harvested. Harvest the fruit and allow to dry, harden, and turn black.
Culinary:
Taste: hotly pungent spice.
Culinary Uses:
Fruits: Raw. The fruits are normally ground into a powdered spice known as Black Pepper or can be pickled.
Green peppercorns: These are often preserved in brine or vinegar and served in pickled form.
White peppercorns: They don’t have the flavorful skins that black peppercorns have which makes them less pungent.
Black peppercorns: The whole peppercorns, when ground, yield black pepper.
Medicinal:
Piper nigrum is used traditionally for the treatment of various diseases including; cough, cold, dyspnea throat diseases, intermittent fever, dysentery, stomachache, worms and piles.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
When: 6 weeks before last frost date
Germinating Peppercorn Seeds Indoors:
1) Soak your seeds in warm water for 24 hours.
2) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
3) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
4) Press seeds into the soil 1/4" add a label with the plant name and date.
5) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 70°F.
6) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop.
Temperature: 70°F.
Average Germ Time: 30 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: 1/4"
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots:
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a loamy soil mix.
2) After the last threat of frost, harden off the seedlings in the garden for about 10 days.
3) Once the seedlings have been hardened off, you can plant them in the garden.
Transplanting Seedlings into Larger Pots for Indoors
1) When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them up into a larger container filled with a loamy soil mix.
2) Place your container indoors somewhere in a moderate light area such as a western facing windowsill in temperatures above 60°F.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. Peppercorn prefers a damp, rich and loamy, good draining soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 in an area that offers full sun-semi shade. 6 to 8 hours of indirect sunlight per day.
When outdoor temp: 65˚F to 95˚F.
Spacing: 3"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Light: If you are growing your Peppercorn indoors, it will need a very bright light. If you are growing it outdoors or in a greenhouse, it will need partial shade.
Soil: Peppercorn needs a damp, rich and loamy, good draining soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Avoid heavy clay soils, they can cause root rot.
Water: Do not let the the soil of your Peppercorn dry out. If the soil surface is dry to the touch, it needs to be watered. Do not over water.
Temperature and Humidity: Peppercorn prefer an area with 50% humidity with bright light. For this reason, bathrooms and kitchens are an ideal location for this variety. This plant will stop growing if temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer: The Peppercorn is a light feeder and should be fertilized in the spring when growth will increase. This plant requires a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer which should be used every 2 weeks throughout the summer. Add 1/4 Tsp. per gallon water. Discontinue feeding your plants through the fall and winter to prevent burning them. The growth of your plant will begin to slow at this time and the need for fertilization declines drastically.
Pruning: You may want to prune your Peppercorn in order to remove any dead foliage or to control plant growth in small spaces.
Harvesting:
As the fruit matures, the corn color changes from green to red. When the corns have turned red, they are ready to be harvested.
Green corns: If you would like to opt out of this plants spiciness, you can pickle the corns when they are green.
Black Corns: Black peppercorns are the result of red ripe berries drying out.
White Corns: is the result of when a mature fruit (completely red) is picked and its husk is removed.
Seed Saving:
When the fruit matures, the corn color changes from green to red. When the corns have turned red, they are ready to be harvested. Harvest the fruit and allow to dry, harden, and turn black.
Culinary:
Taste: hotly pungent spice.
Culinary Uses:
Fruits: Raw. The fruits are normally ground into a powdered spice known as Black Pepper or can be pickled.
Green peppercorns: These are often preserved in brine or vinegar and served in pickled form.
White peppercorns: They don’t have the flavorful skins that black peppercorns have which makes them less pungent.
Black peppercorns: The whole peppercorns, when ground, yield black pepper.
Medicinal:
Piper nigrum is used traditionally for the treatment of various diseases including; cough, cold, dyspnea throat diseases, intermittent fever, dysentery, stomachache, worms and piles.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Rosemary
How to Grow Rosemary
Germination:
Since growing rosemary from seed is a long and difficult process, start the seeds indoors 5-6 months in advance of transplanting. Press the seeds lightly into the soil and place in a sunny spot, since rosemary requires light for germination; keep the temperature at 65-70 degrees F. Keep the soil lightly moist, using a spray bottle or careful watering. Germination will be very slow, up to a month, with a naturally low percentage of the seeds sprouting.
When the plants grow big enough to handle safely and there is no chance of frost, transplant them to light soil and full sun 18-24" apart. Rosemary thrives in dry and stony soils, and can be easily propagated from cuttings; it also makes an excellent container plant, especially in winters that drop below 17 degrees F.
Once rosemary has been established, it will grow quite well on its own without watering or fertilization. If over watered, the plant may suffer from root rot. After flowering, the plant should be pruned to prevent straggly, unhealthy growth.
Crop Care:
In the right climate rosemary is a remarkably trouble free plant that requires no care at all.
Water Needs: Low. Rosemary can survive without irrigation for months.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Rosemary thrives in soil that is not too rich in nutrients.
Watering: Water, 2 cups per plant, every 6 weeks. Well-established Rosemary rarely needs water, even in dry climates.
Harvesting:
Once the plant is well established, harvest fresh leaves when needed; the peak flavor is achieved immediately before the plant flowers, but after this point the flavor becomes lost. Fresh rosemary can be dried or frozen for future use. The leaves should be dried quickly to preserve their color and flavor.
Storage:
You can gather sprigs of this evergreen any time you need them, even in winter. The flavor of the fresh plants is best, but it can also be dried for later use. Dry in a cool, dark area and store in an airtight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Remove the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to turn brown and dry, and spread them out to finish drying in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh out the seeds by rubbing or shaking the heads, and remove as much chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Germination Percentage: 30%
Seed Viability in Years: 1 year
Culinary:
Taste: Pine-like flavor with a delicious aroma.
Culinary Use: Harvest whole stems to flavor meats and soups or crush leaves with root vegetables, breads and many other culinary uses.
Young shoots, leaves and flowers: raw or cooked. The leaves have a very strong flavor that is bitter and somewhat resinous, the flowers are somewhat milder. They are used in small quantities as a flavoring in soups and stews, with vegetables such as peas and spinach, and with sweet dishes such as biscuits cakes, jams and jellies. They can be used fresh or dried.The leaves have a tough texture and so should either be used very finely chopped, or in sprigs that can be removed after cooking. A fragrant tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves. It is said to be especially nice when mixed with tansy.
Medicinal:
Rosemary is commonly grown in the herb garden as a domestic remedy, used especially as a tonic and pick-me-up when feeling depressed, mentally tired, nervous etc. Research has shown that the plant is rich in volatile oils, flavanoids and phenolic acids, which are strongly antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. Rosmarinic acid has potential in the treatment of toxic shock syndrome, whilst the flavonoid diosmin is reputedly more effective than rutin in reducing capillary fragility. Rosmarol, an extract from the leaves, has shown remarkably high antioxidant activity. The whole plant is antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, astringent, cardiac, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, nervine, stimulant, stomachic and tonic. An infusion of the flowering stems made in a closed container to prevent the steam from escaping is effective in treating headaches, colic, colds and nervous diseases. A distilled water from the flowers is used as an eyewash. The leaves can be harvested in the spring or summer and used fresh, they can also be dried for later use. This remedy should not be prescribed for pregnant women since in excess it can cause an abortion. An essential oil distilled from the stems and leaves is often used medicinally, that distilled from the flowering tops is superior but not often available. The oil is applied externally as a rubefacient, added to liniments, rubbed into the temples to treat headaches and used internally as a stomachic and nervine. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Stimulant".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.
Other Uses:
The growing plant is said to repel insects from neighboring plants. Branches or sachets of the leaves are often placed in clothes cupboards to keep moths away. An infusion of the dried plant (both leaves and flowers) is used in shampoos. When combined with borax and used cold, it is one of the best hair washes known and is effective against dandruff. An essential oil is obtained from the leaves and flowering stems. One kilo of oil is obtained from 200 kilos of flowering stems. The oil is used in perfumery, soaps, medicinally etc. It is often added to hair lotions and is said to prevent premature baldness. The leaves are burnt as an incense, fumigant and disinfectant. The cultivar "Prostratus" can be used as a ground cover in a sunny position. This cultivar is the least hardy form of the species. The plant can be grown as a hedge, it is fairly resistant to maritime exposure, though when this is coupled with very cold weather the plants can suffer severely. Any trimming is best carried out after the plant has flowered. The cultivar "Miss Jessopp's Upright" is particularly suitable for hedging. "Fastigiatus" is also very suitable. A yellow-green dye is obtained from the leaves and flowers.:
Since growing rosemary from seed is a long and difficult process, start the seeds indoors 5-6 months in advance of transplanting. Press the seeds lightly into the soil and place in a sunny spot, since rosemary requires light for germination; keep the temperature at 65-70 degrees F. Keep the soil lightly moist, using a spray bottle or careful watering. Germination will be very slow, up to a month, with a naturally low percentage of the seeds sprouting.
When the plants grow big enough to handle safely and there is no chance of frost, transplant them to light soil and full sun 18-24" apart. Rosemary thrives in dry and stony soils, and can be easily propagated from cuttings; it also makes an excellent container plant, especially in winters that drop below 17 degrees F.
Once rosemary has been established, it will grow quite well on its own without watering or fertilization. If over watered, the plant may suffer from root rot. After flowering, the plant should be pruned to prevent straggly, unhealthy growth.
Crop Care:
In the right climate rosemary is a remarkably trouble free plant that requires no care at all.
Water Needs: Low. Rosemary can survive without irrigation for months.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Rosemary thrives in soil that is not too rich in nutrients.
Watering: Water, 2 cups per plant, every 6 weeks. Well-established Rosemary rarely needs water, even in dry climates.
Harvesting:
Once the plant is well established, harvest fresh leaves when needed; the peak flavor is achieved immediately before the plant flowers, but after this point the flavor becomes lost. Fresh rosemary can be dried or frozen for future use. The leaves should be dried quickly to preserve their color and flavor.
Storage:
You can gather sprigs of this evergreen any time you need them, even in winter. The flavor of the fresh plants is best, but it can also be dried for later use. Dry in a cool, dark area and store in an airtight container.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Remove the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to turn brown and dry, and spread them out to finish drying in a protected location out of direct sunlight. Thresh out the seeds by rubbing or shaking the heads, and remove as much chaff as possible. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Germination Percentage: 30%
Seed Viability in Years: 1 year
Culinary:
Taste: Pine-like flavor with a delicious aroma.
Culinary Use: Harvest whole stems to flavor meats and soups or crush leaves with root vegetables, breads and many other culinary uses.
Young shoots, leaves and flowers: raw or cooked. The leaves have a very strong flavor that is bitter and somewhat resinous, the flowers are somewhat milder. They are used in small quantities as a flavoring in soups and stews, with vegetables such as peas and spinach, and with sweet dishes such as biscuits cakes, jams and jellies. They can be used fresh or dried.The leaves have a tough texture and so should either be used very finely chopped, or in sprigs that can be removed after cooking. A fragrant tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves. It is said to be especially nice when mixed with tansy.
Medicinal:
Rosemary is commonly grown in the herb garden as a domestic remedy, used especially as a tonic and pick-me-up when feeling depressed, mentally tired, nervous etc. Research has shown that the plant is rich in volatile oils, flavanoids and phenolic acids, which are strongly antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. Rosmarinic acid has potential in the treatment of toxic shock syndrome, whilst the flavonoid diosmin is reputedly more effective than rutin in reducing capillary fragility. Rosmarol, an extract from the leaves, has shown remarkably high antioxidant activity. The whole plant is antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, astringent, cardiac, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, nervine, stimulant, stomachic and tonic. An infusion of the flowering stems made in a closed container to prevent the steam from escaping is effective in treating headaches, colic, colds and nervous diseases. A distilled water from the flowers is used as an eyewash. The leaves can be harvested in the spring or summer and used fresh, they can also be dried for later use. This remedy should not be prescribed for pregnant women since in excess it can cause an abortion. An essential oil distilled from the stems and leaves is often used medicinally, that distilled from the flowering tops is superior but not often available. The oil is applied externally as a rubefacient, added to liniments, rubbed into the temples to treat headaches and used internally as a stomachic and nervine. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Stimulant".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.
Other Uses:
The growing plant is said to repel insects from neighboring plants. Branches or sachets of the leaves are often placed in clothes cupboards to keep moths away. An infusion of the dried plant (both leaves and flowers) is used in shampoos. When combined with borax and used cold, it is one of the best hair washes known and is effective against dandruff. An essential oil is obtained from the leaves and flowering stems. One kilo of oil is obtained from 200 kilos of flowering stems. The oil is used in perfumery, soaps, medicinally etc. It is often added to hair lotions and is said to prevent premature baldness. The leaves are burnt as an incense, fumigant and disinfectant. The cultivar "Prostratus" can be used as a ground cover in a sunny position. This cultivar is the least hardy form of the species. The plant can be grown as a hedge, it is fairly resistant to maritime exposure, though when this is coupled with very cold weather the plants can suffer severely. Any trimming is best carried out after the plant has flowered. The cultivar "Miss Jessopp's Upright" is particularly suitable for hedging. "Fastigiatus" is also very suitable. A yellow-green dye is obtained from the leaves and flowers.:
Sage
How to Grow Sage
Germination:
Start sage indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring. Sow the seeds just below the surface of the soil, and keep the soil at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Keep the soil lightly moist with a spray bottle or careful watering; germination should take place within 2-3 weeks, and the germination rate will be naturally low.
Transplant after the last spring frost in light, well drained soil and full sun or partial shade. Space the plants 12-15" apart.
Direct sowing is not recommended, since the seeds take much longer to germinate in the cooler soil of spring; this significantly delays their growth. As a companion plant, sage repels the harmful cabbage butterfly and also protects carrots from insect pests. Avoid planting sage near cucumbers. Sage also grows well indoors or as a container plant.
Though young seedlings need water regularly, mature sage develops the strongest flavor when left alone with minimal watering and no fertilization. Do not overwater, since this may cause root rot. Established plants should be pruned both in the spring and after blooming to encourage new growth and create a bushy, compact plant. After about four years, sage begins to lose its potency and may need to be replanted from cuttings. A layer of mulch will be helpful to protect the plants over winter.
Crop Care:
Sage is a tough and drought tolerant plant and once established it doesn't need much attention. It normally lasts for 4 or 5 years, though tends to get woody with age.
Sage doesn’t like very cold weather and may not survive the winter outdoors in very cold climates. In which case it could be potted up and brought inside for winter use (or kept dormant in a cool garage).
Water Needs: Low. Sage is a very drought tolerant plant and is probably more often harmed by too much water, rather than too little. In very dry areas it will be more productive if watered occasionally.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Sage will grow in any well-drained soil, it doesn't need to be very fertile.
Watering: Water, 1 cup per plant, every 2 weeks. Water when soil is dry, especially in the summertime. If gardening in containers, check the soil more regularly, at least once a week.
Pruning: every 4 weeks. Remove the flower stalks as they appear (unless you want seed or enjoy the blooms) as this diverts energy from vegetative growth. If a plant start to get woody after 2 or 3 years, cut it back hard, to encourage tender new growth. If a plant gets very woody dig it up, divide it, and replant the most vigorous parts (or just take cuttings from it).
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, 1 time. If you need a lot of Sage you could give your plants a cup of fertilizer occasionally to encourage greater leaf production. Generally you don't need that much though.
Harvesting:
When started from seed, sage should not be harvested until the second year of its growth to allow the plant to become established. Harvest fresh leaves as needed; the best time for harvesting is in the morning, after the dew has dried. Fresh leaves achieve their peak flavor right before the plant flowers, but after this point the flavor declines. The leaves have the best flavor when fresh, but they can also be frozen and keep very well when dried. Since sage tends to lose its flavor when heated, add it to hot food immediately before serving.
Storage:
Sage is best used fresh, but it is also good dried. Pick whole branches just before they flower and dry them indoors (they dry well). Hang in bunches or lay out on a screen and dry. Store in air tight containers.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Harvest the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to dry and develop mature seed. Spread them out to dry completely, and thresh them to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Culinary:
Taste:
Rich, bold distinct flavor, great for savory dishes.
Culinary Use:
Sage is at its best before the plant flowers. It is best used fresh, but is also good dried.
Sage is a very versatile herb and can be used in a variety of recipes including, stuffings, sauces, meat and fish dishes, fried in pasta, an accent for sweet desserts.
Leaves and flowers: raw or cooked. A very common herb, the strongly aromatic leaves are used as a flavoring in cooked foods. They are an aid to digestion and so are often used with heavy, oily foods. They impart a sausage-like flavor to savory dishes. The young leaves and flowers can be eaten raw, boiled, pickled or used in sandwiches. The flowers can also be sprinkled on salads to add color and fragrance. A herb tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves, it is said to improve the digestion. An essential oil obtained from the plant is used commercially to flavor ice cream, sweets, baked goods etc.
Medicinal:
Sage has a very long history of effective medicinal use and is an important domestic herbal remedy for disorders of the digestive system. Its antiseptic qualities make it an effective gargle for the mouth where it can heal sore throats, ulcers etc. The leaves applied to an aching tooth will often relieve the pain. The whole herb is antihydrotic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, cholagogue, galactofuge, stimulant, tonic and vasodilator. Sage is also used internally in the treatment of excessive lactation, night sweats, excessive salivation (as in Parkinson's disease), profuse perspiration (as in TB), anxiety, depression, female sterility and menopausal problems. Many herbalists believe that the purple-leafed forms of this species are more potent medicinally. This remedy should not be prescribed to pregnant women or to people who have epileptic fits. The plant is toxic in excess or when taken for extended periods - though the toxic dose is very large. Externally, it is used to treat insect bites, skin, throat, mouth and gum infections and vaginal discharge. The leaves are best harvested before the plant comes into flower and are dried for later use. The essential oil from the plant is used in small doses to remove heavy collections of mucous from the respiratory organs and mixed in embrocations for treating rheumatism. In larger doses, however, it can cause epileptic fits, giddiness etc. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Tonic".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies.
Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical qualities.
Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to root rot in consistently moist or wet soils. Taller plants tend to sprawl and may need some support if grown as ornamentals in the border.
Other Uses:
The leaves make excellent tooth cleaners, simply rub the top side of the leaf over the teeth and gums. The purple-leafed form of sage has tougher leaves and is better for cleaning the teeth. The leaves have antiseptic properties and can heal diseased gums. An essential oil from the leaves is used in perfumery, hair shampoos (it is good for dark hair) and as a food flavoring. It is a very effective "fixer" in perfumes, and is also used to flavor toothpastes and is added to bio-activating cosmetics. The plant (the flowers?) is an alternative ingredient of "QR" herbal compost activator. This is a dried and powdered mixture of several herbs that can be added to a compost heap in order to speed up bacterial activity and thus shorten the time needed to make the compost. The growing or dried plant is said to repel insects, it is especially useful when grown amongst cabbages and carrots. It was formerly used as a strewing herb and has been burnt in rooms to fumigate them. A good dense ground cover plant for sunny positions, though it needs weeding for the first year or two. They are best spaced about 60cm apart each way.
Start sage indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring. Sow the seeds just below the surface of the soil, and keep the soil at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F. Keep the soil lightly moist with a spray bottle or careful watering; germination should take place within 2-3 weeks, and the germination rate will be naturally low.
Transplant after the last spring frost in light, well drained soil and full sun or partial shade. Space the plants 12-15" apart.
Direct sowing is not recommended, since the seeds take much longer to germinate in the cooler soil of spring; this significantly delays their growth. As a companion plant, sage repels the harmful cabbage butterfly and also protects carrots from insect pests. Avoid planting sage near cucumbers. Sage also grows well indoors or as a container plant.
Though young seedlings need water regularly, mature sage develops the strongest flavor when left alone with minimal watering and no fertilization. Do not overwater, since this may cause root rot. Established plants should be pruned both in the spring and after blooming to encourage new growth and create a bushy, compact plant. After about four years, sage begins to lose its potency and may need to be replanted from cuttings. A layer of mulch will be helpful to protect the plants over winter.
Crop Care:
Sage is a tough and drought tolerant plant and once established it doesn't need much attention. It normally lasts for 4 or 5 years, though tends to get woody with age.
Sage doesn’t like very cold weather and may not survive the winter outdoors in very cold climates. In which case it could be potted up and brought inside for winter use (or kept dormant in a cool garage).
Water Needs: Low. Sage is a very drought tolerant plant and is probably more often harmed by too much water, rather than too little. In very dry areas it will be more productive if watered occasionally.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Sage will grow in any well-drained soil, it doesn't need to be very fertile.
Watering: Water, 1 cup per plant, every 2 weeks. Water when soil is dry, especially in the summertime. If gardening in containers, check the soil more regularly, at least once a week.
Pruning: every 4 weeks. Remove the flower stalks as they appear (unless you want seed or enjoy the blooms) as this diverts energy from vegetative growth. If a plant start to get woody after 2 or 3 years, cut it back hard, to encourage tender new growth. If a plant gets very woody dig it up, divide it, and replant the most vigorous parts (or just take cuttings from it).
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, 1 time. If you need a lot of Sage you could give your plants a cup of fertilizer occasionally to encourage greater leaf production. Generally you don't need that much though.
Harvesting:
When started from seed, sage should not be harvested until the second year of its growth to allow the plant to become established. Harvest fresh leaves as needed; the best time for harvesting is in the morning, after the dew has dried. Fresh leaves achieve their peak flavor right before the plant flowers, but after this point the flavor declines. The leaves have the best flavor when fresh, but they can also be frozen and keep very well when dried. Since sage tends to lose its flavor when heated, add it to hot food immediately before serving.
Storage:
Sage is best used fresh, but it is also good dried. Pick whole branches just before they flower and dry them indoors (they dry well). Hang in bunches or lay out on a screen and dry. Store in air tight containers.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Harvest the seed heads individually as soon as they begin to dry and develop mature seed. Spread them out to dry completely, and thresh them to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Culinary:
Taste:
Rich, bold distinct flavor, great for savory dishes.
Culinary Use:
Sage is at its best before the plant flowers. It is best used fresh, but is also good dried.
Sage is a very versatile herb and can be used in a variety of recipes including, stuffings, sauces, meat and fish dishes, fried in pasta, an accent for sweet desserts.
Leaves and flowers: raw or cooked. A very common herb, the strongly aromatic leaves are used as a flavoring in cooked foods. They are an aid to digestion and so are often used with heavy, oily foods. They impart a sausage-like flavor to savory dishes. The young leaves and flowers can be eaten raw, boiled, pickled or used in sandwiches. The flowers can also be sprinkled on salads to add color and fragrance. A herb tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves, it is said to improve the digestion. An essential oil obtained from the plant is used commercially to flavor ice cream, sweets, baked goods etc.
Medicinal:
Sage has a very long history of effective medicinal use and is an important domestic herbal remedy for disorders of the digestive system. Its antiseptic qualities make it an effective gargle for the mouth where it can heal sore throats, ulcers etc. The leaves applied to an aching tooth will often relieve the pain. The whole herb is antihydrotic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, cholagogue, galactofuge, stimulant, tonic and vasodilator. Sage is also used internally in the treatment of excessive lactation, night sweats, excessive salivation (as in Parkinson's disease), profuse perspiration (as in TB), anxiety, depression, female sterility and menopausal problems. Many herbalists believe that the purple-leafed forms of this species are more potent medicinally. This remedy should not be prescribed to pregnant women or to people who have epileptic fits. The plant is toxic in excess or when taken for extended periods - though the toxic dose is very large. Externally, it is used to treat insect bites, skin, throat, mouth and gum infections and vaginal discharge. The leaves are best harvested before the plant comes into flower and are dried for later use. The essential oil from the plant is used in small doses to remove heavy collections of mucous from the respiratory organs and mixed in embrocations for treating rheumatism. In larger doses, however, it can cause epileptic fits, giddiness etc. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Tonic".
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies.
Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical qualities.
Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to root rot in consistently moist or wet soils. Taller plants tend to sprawl and may need some support if grown as ornamentals in the border.
Other Uses:
The leaves make excellent tooth cleaners, simply rub the top side of the leaf over the teeth and gums. The purple-leafed form of sage has tougher leaves and is better for cleaning the teeth. The leaves have antiseptic properties and can heal diseased gums. An essential oil from the leaves is used in perfumery, hair shampoos (it is good for dark hair) and as a food flavoring. It is a very effective "fixer" in perfumes, and is also used to flavor toothpastes and is added to bio-activating cosmetics. The plant (the flowers?) is an alternative ingredient of "QR" herbal compost activator. This is a dried and powdered mixture of several herbs that can be added to a compost heap in order to speed up bacterial activity and thus shorten the time needed to make the compost. The growing or dried plant is said to repel insects, it is especially useful when grown amongst cabbages and carrots. It was formerly used as a strewing herb and has been burnt in rooms to fumigate them. A good dense ground cover plant for sunny positions, though it needs weeding for the first year or two. They are best spaced about 60cm apart each way.
Savory
How to Grow Savory
Germination:
Start seeds indoors 4-6 before the last frost date by sowing them in flats on the surface of the soil; keep at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F until germination, which may take up to 21 days. After the last chance of frost, transplant the seedlings outdoors in well drained or sandy soil and full sun; space them 9-12" apart. Summer savory also grows well in containers, and can easily be propagated from cuttings. As a companion plant, it improves the flavor of beans, sweet potatoes and onions; it also discourages insect pests and attracts honey bees.
Keep the seedlings watered only until they have become established; mature summer savory thrives in fairly dry soil and strong sunlight, and should not be regularly watered unless drought conditions persist. Since the stems often grow thin and weak, they may need support to prevent breaking. Though summer savory readily reseeds itself, this can be prevented by removing the maturing flower heads.
Crop Care:
Make sure to keep the soil moist and harvest regularly to encourage more leaf production.
Water Needs: Low. Summer Savory grows best if the soil is moist, but is quite drought tolerant.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Summer Savory grows best in a fairly rich soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Summer Savory produces more leaves of higher quality when grown in moist soil. If the soil becomes dry Summer Savory won't die - but production will be set back and leaves will not be as fragrant. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Harvesting of fresh leaves can begin as soon as the plants reach a height of 6". Cutting fresh leaves often promotes new growth. The best time for harvesting is in the morning after the dew has dried. The fresh leaves reach their peak flavor immediately before the plant flowers; after this point, the flavor decreases. To dry summer savory, cut the stems and hang them upside down in a dry, dark place for about 2 weeks. Strip the leaves from the stems and store them in a cool, dark place.
Storage:
Once the plant flowers hang it upside down to dry in a well-ventilated place. Individual sprigs can also be hung to dry at any time before flowering but there isn't much of a need to until the end of your crop (fresh Savory is delicious). Store in an airtight container away from sunlight.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-75°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Harvest the mature seed heads individually and spread them out to dry out of direct sunlight. When they have dried completely, thresh them to remove the seed and store it in a cool, dry place; for best germination, use it within one year.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Peppery thyme flavor. Not as strong as Winter Savory, making it more suitable to be eaten fresh on salads. Taste is often considered to be superior to Winter Savory.
Culinary Use:
Summer Savory pairs excellently with snap beans and is commonly used to spice other dishes including stuffings, soups, and salads.
Leaves: raw or cooked. An aromatic, slightly peppery flavor, they are used mainly as a flavoring for cooked foods, especially the more difficult to digest foods such as beans where they compliment the flavor and reduce flatulence. They are also used as a garnish for salads etc. The leaves can be used fresh or dried. A herb tea is made from the leaves. The leaves are harvested just before the plant comes into flower. A tangy, marjoram-like flavor. The flowering shoots contain about 0.5% essential oil, this is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Summer savory is most often used as a culinary herb, but it also has marked medicinal benefits, especially upon the whole digestive system. The plant has a milder action than the closely related winter savory, S. Montana. The whole herb, and especially the flowering shoots, is antiseptic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, expectorant and stomachic. Taken internally, it is said to be a sovereign remedy for colic and a cure for flatulence, whilst it is also used to treat nausea, diarrhea, bronchial congestion, sore throat and menstrual disorders. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. A sprig of the plant, rubbed onto bee or wasp stings, brings instant relief. The plant is harvested in the summer when in flower and can be used fresh or dried. The essential oil forms an ingredient in lotions for the scalp in cases of incipient baldness. An ointment made from the plant is used externally to relieve arthritic joints.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Include it with sweet potatoes. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles, sweet potato weevil and black aphids. Honey bees love it when it is in bloom.
Problems:
This is a tough plant, with no notable pest or disease problems. Rather, it is known to keep pests away with its strong scent.
Other Uses:
The essential oil from the flowering shoots is used extensively in perfumery, giving a particular quality to the fragrance.
Start seeds indoors 4-6 before the last frost date by sowing them in flats on the surface of the soil; keep at a temperature of 65-70 degrees F until germination, which may take up to 21 days. After the last chance of frost, transplant the seedlings outdoors in well drained or sandy soil and full sun; space them 9-12" apart. Summer savory also grows well in containers, and can easily be propagated from cuttings. As a companion plant, it improves the flavor of beans, sweet potatoes and onions; it also discourages insect pests and attracts honey bees.
Keep the seedlings watered only until they have become established; mature summer savory thrives in fairly dry soil and strong sunlight, and should not be regularly watered unless drought conditions persist. Since the stems often grow thin and weak, they may need support to prevent breaking. Though summer savory readily reseeds itself, this can be prevented by removing the maturing flower heads.
Crop Care:
Make sure to keep the soil moist and harvest regularly to encourage more leaf production.
Water Needs: Low. Summer Savory grows best if the soil is moist, but is quite drought tolerant.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Summer Savory grows best in a fairly rich soil.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Summer Savory produces more leaves of higher quality when grown in moist soil. If the soil becomes dry Summer Savory won't die - but production will be set back and leaves will not be as fragrant. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Harvesting of fresh leaves can begin as soon as the plants reach a height of 6". Cutting fresh leaves often promotes new growth. The best time for harvesting is in the morning after the dew has dried. The fresh leaves reach their peak flavor immediately before the plant flowers; after this point, the flavor decreases. To dry summer savory, cut the stems and hang them upside down in a dry, dark place for about 2 weeks. Strip the leaves from the stems and store them in a cool, dark place.
Storage:
Once the plant flowers hang it upside down to dry in a well-ventilated place. Individual sprigs can also be hung to dry at any time before flowering but there isn't much of a need to until the end of your crop (fresh Savory is delicious). Store in an airtight container away from sunlight.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-75°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Harvest the mature seed heads individually and spread them out to dry out of direct sunlight. When they have dried completely, thresh them to remove the seed and store it in a cool, dry place; for best germination, use it within one year.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Peppery thyme flavor. Not as strong as Winter Savory, making it more suitable to be eaten fresh on salads. Taste is often considered to be superior to Winter Savory.
Culinary Use:
Summer Savory pairs excellently with snap beans and is commonly used to spice other dishes including stuffings, soups, and salads.
Leaves: raw or cooked. An aromatic, slightly peppery flavor, they are used mainly as a flavoring for cooked foods, especially the more difficult to digest foods such as beans where they compliment the flavor and reduce flatulence. They are also used as a garnish for salads etc. The leaves can be used fresh or dried. A herb tea is made from the leaves. The leaves are harvested just before the plant comes into flower. A tangy, marjoram-like flavor. The flowering shoots contain about 0.5% essential oil, this is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Summer savory is most often used as a culinary herb, but it also has marked medicinal benefits, especially upon the whole digestive system. The plant has a milder action than the closely related winter savory, S. Montana. The whole herb, and especially the flowering shoots, is antiseptic, aromatic, carminative, digestive, expectorant and stomachic. Taken internally, it is said to be a sovereign remedy for colic and a cure for flatulence, whilst it is also used to treat nausea, diarrhea, bronchial congestion, sore throat and menstrual disorders. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. A sprig of the plant, rubbed onto bee or wasp stings, brings instant relief. The plant is harvested in the summer when in flower and can be used fresh or dried. The essential oil forms an ingredient in lotions for the scalp in cases of incipient baldness. An ointment made from the plant is used externally to relieve arthritic joints.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Include it with sweet potatoes. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles, sweet potato weevil and black aphids. Honey bees love it when it is in bloom.
Problems:
This is a tough plant, with no notable pest or disease problems. Rather, it is known to keep pests away with its strong scent.
Other Uses:
The essential oil from the flowering shoots is used extensively in perfumery, giving a particular quality to the fragrance.
Skullcap
How to Grow Skullcap
Germination:
Direct sow in late fall, pressing into the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which is notoriously slow and irregular.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. This plant adapts well to either dry or moist soil, and also tolerates sandy and clay soils. Though drought tolerant, it prefers moist soil and will benefit from watering in especially dry weather. For extended blooming, deadhead blossoms. This plant attracts hummingbirds and bumblebees.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, clusters of small seed pods will develop that mature from green to brown. When ripe, they will split open at the top to reveal the tiny brown seeds. Shake the open pods over a container to remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Laterifolia is the species most often used by herbalists, Its flowers are small and leaves triangular. However, you can use any species of Skullcap for herbal teas and tinctures.
Medicinal:
A commonly used herbal medicine, Virginian skullcap is a very effective nervine that has traditionally been used in the treatment of a wide range of nervous conditions. Its tonic and restorative properties help to support and nourish the nervous system, calming and relieving stress and anxiety. Very little research has been carried out on this species, despite its long use in American and British herbal medicine. Research is sorely needed, and may reveal more uses for this valuable herb. The leaves are antispasmodic, slightly astringent, diuretic, nervine, sedative and strongly tonic. They are harvested in early summer and dried for later use. It is used in the treatment of various problems of the nervous system including epilepsy, insomnia, anxiety, delirium tremens, withdrawal from barbiturates and tranquilizers, and neuralgia. An infusion of the plant has been used to promote suppressed menstruation, relieve breast pain and encourage expulsion of the placenta, it should not be given to pregnant women since it can induce a miscarriage. This plant should be used with some caution since in excess it causes giddiness, stupor, confusion and twitching. The plant was once believed of use in the treatment of rabies, though there is no evidence to support this.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Powdery mildew and leaf spot may occur. Watch for aphids.
Direct sow in late fall, pressing into the surface of the soil. For spring planting, mix the seeds with moist sand and store in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which is notoriously slow and irregular.
Crop Care:
Water seedlings occasionally until they become established. This plant adapts well to either dry or moist soil, and also tolerates sandy and clay soils. Though drought tolerant, it prefers moist soil and will benefit from watering in especially dry weather. For extended blooming, deadhead blossoms. This plant attracts hummingbirds and bumblebees.
Harvesting:
For cut flowers, choose stems with flowers that have just opened. Strip the foliage that will fall below the water level, and place in water immediately.
Seed Saving:
After the flowers fade, clusters of small seed pods will develop that mature from green to brown. When ripe, they will split open at the top to reveal the tiny brown seeds. Shake the open pods over a container to remove the seed. Store the cleaned seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Laterifolia is the species most often used by herbalists, Its flowers are small and leaves triangular. However, you can use any species of Skullcap for herbal teas and tinctures.
Medicinal:
A commonly used herbal medicine, Virginian skullcap is a very effective nervine that has traditionally been used in the treatment of a wide range of nervous conditions. Its tonic and restorative properties help to support and nourish the nervous system, calming and relieving stress and anxiety. Very little research has been carried out on this species, despite its long use in American and British herbal medicine. Research is sorely needed, and may reveal more uses for this valuable herb. The leaves are antispasmodic, slightly astringent, diuretic, nervine, sedative and strongly tonic. They are harvested in early summer and dried for later use. It is used in the treatment of various problems of the nervous system including epilepsy, insomnia, anxiety, delirium tremens, withdrawal from barbiturates and tranquilizers, and neuralgia. An infusion of the plant has been used to promote suppressed menstruation, relieve breast pain and encourage expulsion of the placenta, it should not be given to pregnant women since it can induce a miscarriage. This plant should be used with some caution since in excess it causes giddiness, stupor, confusion and twitching. The plant was once believed of use in the treatment of rabies, though there is no evidence to support this.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Powdery mildew and leaf spot may occur. Watch for aphids.
Sorrel
How to Grow Sorrel
Germination:
Sorrel can be started indoors 3-4 weeks before the last spring frost. Sow the seed thinly 1/4" deep and press the soil down slightly to ensure good contact; germination should take place within 21 days. Transplant the seedlings in rich, well draining soil and full sun or partial shade after the last chance of frost, placing them 12-15" apart in rows 18" apart. For direct sowing, plant the seeds 4-6" apart and thin the seedlings to 12-15" apart. For a continuous harvest, sow a new crop every 2 weeks until the heat of summer. Sorrel can also be propagated by cuttings or root division.
Crop Care:
Keep the soil rich and moist for the best tasting leaves; a layer of mulch may help keep the soil cool, control weeds, and slow bolting. Removing the developing seed stalks also slows bolting; when the plant bolts, cut it off at ground level and it will produce a new crop of leaves. Watch out for slugs, which will harm the leaves. If grown as a perennial, sorrel will need to be covered thickly over the winter for protection. In the spring of its fourth year, sorrel plants may need to be dug up and divided to continue their healthy growth.
Harvesting:
Fresh leaves can be harvested as soon as they reach a length of 3-5". Harvest the outer leaves until the plant becomes established, when the entire plant can be cut at ground level. Small, tender leaves have the mildest flavor, while the large leaves make excellent greens when cooked; cooking greatly lessens the sharpness of the flavor. Sorrel also freezes well.
Seed Saving:
Fresh leaves can be harvested as soon as they reach a length of 3-5". Harvest the outer leaves until the plant becomes established, when the entire plant can be cut at ground level. Small, tender leaves have the mildest flavor, while the large leaves make excellent greens when cooked; cooking greatly lessens the sharpness of the flavor. Sorrel also freezes well.
Culinary:
Small, tender leaves have the mildest flavor, while the large leaves make excellent greens when cooked; cooking greatly lessens the sharpness of the flavor.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They make a thirst-quenching on their own, or can be added to salads, used as a potherb or pureed and used in soups. A delicious lemon-like flavor, liked by most people who try them, they can be rather overpowering in quantity and are more generally used as a flavoring in mixed salads. The leaves can also be dried for later use. The leaves can be available all through the winter, especially in mild weather or if a little protection is given to the plants. The leaves should be used sparingly in the diet. The juice of the leaves can be used as a curdling agent for milks.
Flowers: cooked as a vegetable or used as a garnish.
Root: cooked. It is dried, ground into a powder and made into noodles.
Seed: raw or cooked. Ground into a powder and mixed with other flours to make bread. The seed is easy to harvest, but is rather small and fiddly to use.
Medicinal:
The fresh or dried leaves are astringent, diuretic, laxative and refrigerant. They are used to make a cooling drink in the treatment of fevers and are especially useful in the treatment of scurvy. The leaf juice, mixed with fumitory, has been used as a cure for itchy skin and ringworm. An infusion of the root is astringent, diuretic and homeostatic. It has been used in the treatment of jaundice, gravel and kidney stones. Both the roots and the seeds have been used to stem hemorrhages. A paste of the root is applied to set dislocated bones. The plant is depurative and stomachic. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of spasms and skin ailments.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: A useful garden companion, sorrel plant does well with a number of other herbs and vegetables. It also does well when planted alongside low growing crops such as strawberries. It also does well when planted with herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and sage.
Enemies: Sorrel plants struggle when planted alongside tall plants such as beans or corn. Taller plants can block out light, stunting the growth of smaller plants and herbs
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Not withstanding culinary uses, this plant is considered by many to be an aggressive weed.
Other Uses:
Dark green to brown and dark grey dyes can be obtained from the roots, they do not need a mordant. A grey-blue dye is obtained from the leaves and stems. An infusion of the stems is used as a polish for bamboo and wicker furniture and also for silver. The juice of the plant removes stains from linen and also ink stains (but not ball-point ink) from white material. It is sometimes sold as "essential salt of lemon".
Sorrel can be started indoors 3-4 weeks before the last spring frost. Sow the seed thinly 1/4" deep and press the soil down slightly to ensure good contact; germination should take place within 21 days. Transplant the seedlings in rich, well draining soil and full sun or partial shade after the last chance of frost, placing them 12-15" apart in rows 18" apart. For direct sowing, plant the seeds 4-6" apart and thin the seedlings to 12-15" apart. For a continuous harvest, sow a new crop every 2 weeks until the heat of summer. Sorrel can also be propagated by cuttings or root division.
Crop Care:
Keep the soil rich and moist for the best tasting leaves; a layer of mulch may help keep the soil cool, control weeds, and slow bolting. Removing the developing seed stalks also slows bolting; when the plant bolts, cut it off at ground level and it will produce a new crop of leaves. Watch out for slugs, which will harm the leaves. If grown as a perennial, sorrel will need to be covered thickly over the winter for protection. In the spring of its fourth year, sorrel plants may need to be dug up and divided to continue their healthy growth.
Harvesting:
Fresh leaves can be harvested as soon as they reach a length of 3-5". Harvest the outer leaves until the plant becomes established, when the entire plant can be cut at ground level. Small, tender leaves have the mildest flavor, while the large leaves make excellent greens when cooked; cooking greatly lessens the sharpness of the flavor. Sorrel also freezes well.
Seed Saving:
Fresh leaves can be harvested as soon as they reach a length of 3-5". Harvest the outer leaves until the plant becomes established, when the entire plant can be cut at ground level. Small, tender leaves have the mildest flavor, while the large leaves make excellent greens when cooked; cooking greatly lessens the sharpness of the flavor. Sorrel also freezes well.
Culinary:
Small, tender leaves have the mildest flavor, while the large leaves make excellent greens when cooked; cooking greatly lessens the sharpness of the flavor.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They make a thirst-quenching on their own, or can be added to salads, used as a potherb or pureed and used in soups. A delicious lemon-like flavor, liked by most people who try them, they can be rather overpowering in quantity and are more generally used as a flavoring in mixed salads. The leaves can also be dried for later use. The leaves can be available all through the winter, especially in mild weather or if a little protection is given to the plants. The leaves should be used sparingly in the diet. The juice of the leaves can be used as a curdling agent for milks.
Flowers: cooked as a vegetable or used as a garnish.
Root: cooked. It is dried, ground into a powder and made into noodles.
Seed: raw or cooked. Ground into a powder and mixed with other flours to make bread. The seed is easy to harvest, but is rather small and fiddly to use.
Medicinal:
The fresh or dried leaves are astringent, diuretic, laxative and refrigerant. They are used to make a cooling drink in the treatment of fevers and are especially useful in the treatment of scurvy. The leaf juice, mixed with fumitory, has been used as a cure for itchy skin and ringworm. An infusion of the root is astringent, diuretic and homeostatic. It has been used in the treatment of jaundice, gravel and kidney stones. Both the roots and the seeds have been used to stem hemorrhages. A paste of the root is applied to set dislocated bones. The plant is depurative and stomachic. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of spasms and skin ailments.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: A useful garden companion, sorrel plant does well with a number of other herbs and vegetables. It also does well when planted alongside low growing crops such as strawberries. It also does well when planted with herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and sage.
Enemies: Sorrel plants struggle when planted alongside tall plants such as beans or corn. Taller plants can block out light, stunting the growth of smaller plants and herbs
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Not withstanding culinary uses, this plant is considered by many to be an aggressive weed.
Other Uses:
Dark green to brown and dark grey dyes can be obtained from the roots, they do not need a mordant. A grey-blue dye is obtained from the leaves and stems. An infusion of the stems is used as a polish for bamboo and wicker furniture and also for silver. The juice of the plant removes stains from linen and also ink stains (but not ball-point ink) from white material. It is sometimes sold as "essential salt of lemon".
St. John's Wort
How to Grow St. John's Wort
Germination:
Spring Planting:
To plant St. John's Wort in the spring time, the seeds will need to be started indoors 6-8 weeks before your areas last frost date.
Germinating St. John's Wort Seeds:
1) Soak seeds for a few hours or up to overnight in warm water to hasten germination.
2) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
3) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
4) Press the seeds into the soil but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
5) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a bright place or under lights at a temperature of 60-70˚F degrees Fahrenheit.
6) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop.
7) Thin when the seedlings are 2-3", keeping the healthiest looking plants.
Temperature: 60-70˚F.
Average Germ Time: 10-20 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Fall Planting:
Direct sow your seeds into the garden in late autumn before the last frost 18-24" apart. St. John's Wort can tolerate almost any soil but prefers a moist, good draining soil that has a pH between 5.8 and 7.2. If you live in the North, you will need to plant your seeds in a location that receives full sun. If you live in the South, you will need to plant your seeds in an area that will receive part shade.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. St. John's Wort can tolerate almost any soil but prefers a moist, good draining soil that has a pH between 5.8 and 7.2. In colder areas, St. John's Wort appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 18-24" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain a medium moisture until your plants mature which then they will be able to tolerate drought..
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F.
Spacing: 18-24"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Keep your plant well watered when they are establishing, but do not overwater. Once mature, your plant will be more tolerant to drought.
Temperature and Humidity: St. John's Wort can routinely handle the wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 8. It is known to survive down to minus 10˚F degrees Fahrenheit, but prefers temps between 68-78˚F.
Fertilizer: St. John's wort requires very little fertilizing. Usually, no additional fertilization is needed after the initial planting, unless obvious symptoms of slow growth appear. If that happens, apply some low-concentration balanced compound fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK ratio).
Pruning: Prune plants in early spring to encourage new stems. The plant’s flowers only develop on new growth.
Harvesting:
On the 2nd to 3rd year, when blossoms appear in July, harvest around 1/3 including flowers. Dry the leaves and flowers by hanging stems in a cool, dry, dark place for 7-10 days.
Seed Saving:
You will want to harvest your seeds in early fall, when the capsules of St. John's Wort have dried out and are turning brown.
Culinary:
The herb and the fruit are sometimes used as a tea substitute. The flowers can be used in making mead.
Medicinal:
St. John's wort has a long history of herbal use. It fell out of favor in the nineteenth century but recent research has brought it back to prominence as an extremely valuable remedy for nervous problems. In clinical trials about 67% of patients with mild to moderate depression improved when taking this plant. The flowers and leaves are analgesic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, astringent, cholagogue, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, nervine, resolvent, sedative, stimulant, vermifuge and vulnerary. The herb is used in treating a wide range of disorders, including pulmonary complaints, bladder problems, diarrhea, and nervous depression. It is also very effectual in treating overnight incontinence of urine in children. Externally, it is used in poultices to dispel herd tumors, caked breasts, bruising etc. The flowering shoots are harvested in early summer and dried for later use. Use the plant with caution and do not prescribe it for patients with chronic depression. The plant was used to procure an abortion by some native North Americans, so it is best not used by pregnant women. See also the notes above on toxicity. A tea or tincture of the fresh flowers is a popular treatment for external ulcers, burns, wounds (especially those with severed nerve tissue), sores, bruises, cramps etc. An infusion of the flowers in olive oil is applied externally to wounds, sores, ulcers, swellings, rheumatism etc. It is also valued in the treatment of sunburn and as a cosmetic preparation to the skin. The plant contains many biologically active compounds including rutin, pectin, choline, sitosterol, hypericin and pseudo-hypericin. These last two compounds have been shown to have potent anti-retroviral activity without serious side effects and they are being researched in the treatment of AIDS. A homeopathic remedy is made from the fresh whole flowering plant. It is used in the treatment of injuries, bites, stings etc and is said to be the first remedy to consider when nerve-rich areas such as the spine, eyes, fingers etc are injured.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Other Uses:
Yellow, gold and brown dyes are obtained from the flowers and leaves. A red is obtained from the flowers after acidification. A red dye is obtained from the whole plant when infused in oil or alcohol. A yellow is obtained when it is infused in water. The plant is said to contain good quantities of tannin, though exact figures are not available.
Spring Planting:
To plant St. John's Wort in the spring time, the seeds will need to be started indoors 6-8 weeks before your areas last frost date.
Germinating St. John's Wort Seeds:
1) Soak seeds for a few hours or up to overnight in warm water to hasten germination.
2) Fill seed starting trays to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
3) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then scatter seeds evenly over the medium.
4) Press the seeds into the soil but do not cover fully add a label with the plant name and date.
5) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a bright place or under lights at a temperature of 60-70˚F degrees Fahrenheit.
6) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop.
7) Thin when the seedlings are 2-3", keeping the healthiest looking plants.
Temperature: 60-70˚F.
Average Germ Time: 10-20 days
Light Required: Yes
Depth: Do not cover the seed but press into the soil
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Fall Planting:
Direct sow your seeds into the garden in late autumn before the last frost 18-24" apart. St. John's Wort can tolerate almost any soil but prefers a moist, good draining soil that has a pH between 5.8 and 7.2. If you live in the North, you will need to plant your seeds in a location that receives full sun. If you live in the South, you will need to plant your seeds in an area that will receive part shade.
How:
Transplant your seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed after all dangers of frost. St. John's Wort can tolerate almost any soil but prefers a moist, good draining soil that has a pH between 5.8 and 7.2. In colder areas, St. John's Wort appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Dig your holes as deep as the pots you are transplanting from and keep a spacing of 18-24" between seedlings. Your soil will need to maintain a medium moisture until your plants mature which then they will be able to tolerate drought..
When outdoor temp: 63˚F to 82˚F.
Spacing: 18-24"
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Water: Keep your plant well watered when they are establishing, but do not overwater. Once mature, your plant will be more tolerant to drought.
Temperature and Humidity: St. John's Wort can routinely handle the wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 8. It is known to survive down to minus 10˚F degrees Fahrenheit, but prefers temps between 68-78˚F.
Fertilizer: St. John's wort requires very little fertilizing. Usually, no additional fertilization is needed after the initial planting, unless obvious symptoms of slow growth appear. If that happens, apply some low-concentration balanced compound fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK ratio).
Pruning: Prune plants in early spring to encourage new stems. The plant’s flowers only develop on new growth.
Harvesting:
On the 2nd to 3rd year, when blossoms appear in July, harvest around 1/3 including flowers. Dry the leaves and flowers by hanging stems in a cool, dry, dark place for 7-10 days.
Seed Saving:
You will want to harvest your seeds in early fall, when the capsules of St. John's Wort have dried out and are turning brown.
Culinary:
The herb and the fruit are sometimes used as a tea substitute. The flowers can be used in making mead.
Medicinal:
St. John's wort has a long history of herbal use. It fell out of favor in the nineteenth century but recent research has brought it back to prominence as an extremely valuable remedy for nervous problems. In clinical trials about 67% of patients with mild to moderate depression improved when taking this plant. The flowers and leaves are analgesic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aromatic, astringent, cholagogue, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, nervine, resolvent, sedative, stimulant, vermifuge and vulnerary. The herb is used in treating a wide range of disorders, including pulmonary complaints, bladder problems, diarrhea, and nervous depression. It is also very effectual in treating overnight incontinence of urine in children. Externally, it is used in poultices to dispel herd tumors, caked breasts, bruising etc. The flowering shoots are harvested in early summer and dried for later use. Use the plant with caution and do not prescribe it for patients with chronic depression. The plant was used to procure an abortion by some native North Americans, so it is best not used by pregnant women. See also the notes above on toxicity. A tea or tincture of the fresh flowers is a popular treatment for external ulcers, burns, wounds (especially those with severed nerve tissue), sores, bruises, cramps etc. An infusion of the flowers in olive oil is applied externally to wounds, sores, ulcers, swellings, rheumatism etc. It is also valued in the treatment of sunburn and as a cosmetic preparation to the skin. The plant contains many biologically active compounds including rutin, pectin, choline, sitosterol, hypericin and pseudo-hypericin. These last two compounds have been shown to have potent anti-retroviral activity without serious side effects and they are being researched in the treatment of AIDS. A homeopathic remedy is made from the fresh whole flowering plant. It is used in the treatment of injuries, bites, stings etc and is said to be the first remedy to consider when nerve-rich areas such as the spine, eyes, fingers etc are injured.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Other Uses:
Yellow, gold and brown dyes are obtained from the flowers and leaves. A red is obtained from the flowers after acidification. A red dye is obtained from the whole plant when infused in oil or alcohol. A yellow is obtained when it is infused in water. The plant is said to contain good quantities of tannin, though exact figures are not available.
Tarragon
How to Grow Tarragon
Germination:
Start the seed indoors about a month before the last frost, thinly sowing on the surface of a flat; keep the temperature at 65-70 degrees F and away from direct sunlight until germination. When there is no chance of frost, transplant the seedlings 24-30" apart. Tarragon grows best in dry or well drained soil and full sun or light shade. Direct sowing is possible but somewhat difficult because of the extremely tiny seed. This herb attracts butterflies and bees, as well as repelling harmful insects and deer. Tarragon can be also grown from cuttings or root division, though growing it in a container is not recommended because of the size and sprawling growth habit of the plant.
Crop Care:
Tarragon develops its full flavor when left to itself in dry soil and abundant sunlight. Mature plants tolerate drought very well, and should not be watered unless drought conditions persist. Overwatering can lead to root rot as well as other fungal diseases. For healthy growth, keep the plant trimmed.
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves as soon as the plant reaches a height of 6". The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried. Entire stems or the whole plant can also be cut slightly above ground level, since this will encourage new growth. To dry entire stems, cut them off and bundle them; hang them upside down in a dry, dark place for about 2 weeks. Strip the leaves from the stems and store them in a cool, dry place.
Tarragon is best used fresh. The leaves don’t dry very well, but can be frozen to preserve their fresh taste. Pick leaves and put in ice cube tray and cover with water.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
The small green flowers should appear sometime in the fall, though the plant may not have time to produce seed if the growing season is too short. Harvest them individually as they begin to develop mature seed, which will look almost like black dust. Carefully gather the heads and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight, then shake them lightly to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet, anise flavor.
Culinary Use:
Use in soups, vegetables, mild cheeses, fish, and to flavor vinegar.
Leaves: raw or used as a flavoring in soups etc. Tarragon is a commonly used herbal flavoring that is used in many traditional recipes. It is particularly of value because of its beneficial effect upon the digestion and so is often used with oily foods. The leaves can also be harvested in late summer and dried for later use. The aromatic leaves have a very nice flavor that is somewhat licorice-like. They make an excellent flavoring in salads. The young shoots can also be cooked and used as a potherb. The leaves are used as a flavoring in vinegar. An essential oil from the leaves is used as a flavoring.
Medicinal:
Tarragon is a bitter warming aromatic herb that stimulates the digestive system and uterus, lowers fevers and destroys intestinal worms. It is little used in modern herbalism, though it is sometimes employed as an appetizer. The leaves (and an essential oil obtained from them) are antiscorbutic, diuretic, emmenagogue, hypnotic and stomachic. An infusion is used in the treatment of indigestion, flatulence, nausea, hiccups etc. The plant is mildly sedative and has been taken to aid sleep. It also has mild emmenagogue properties and can be used to induce a delayed period. A poultice can be used to relieve rheumatism, gout, arthritis and toothache. The plant is harvested in the summer and can be dried for later use. This herb should not be prescribed for pregnant women. The root has been used to cure toothache. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy to treat digestive and menstrual problems.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Tarragon is one of the aromatic herbs recommended by companion gardeners to improve growth and flavor of neighboring vegetables.
Companions: Place a tarragon plant at the corners of raised beds, grow it in the herb garden, or interplant it among plots of eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, and other vegetables. Tarragon also adapts well to life in a container, either outside or on a sunny windowsill.
Enemies: None known. Tarragon is a member of the same genus as wormwood, but it appears to lack the toxic qualities of that herb.
Problems:
Susceptible to root rot in moist soils, particularly poorly drained ones. French tarragon does not always survive winters, and wet soils in winter is a common cause of plant demise.
Start the seed indoors about a month before the last frost, thinly sowing on the surface of a flat; keep the temperature at 65-70 degrees F and away from direct sunlight until germination. When there is no chance of frost, transplant the seedlings 24-30" apart. Tarragon grows best in dry or well drained soil and full sun or light shade. Direct sowing is possible but somewhat difficult because of the extremely tiny seed. This herb attracts butterflies and bees, as well as repelling harmful insects and deer. Tarragon can be also grown from cuttings or root division, though growing it in a container is not recommended because of the size and sprawling growth habit of the plant.
Crop Care:
Tarragon develops its full flavor when left to itself in dry soil and abundant sunlight. Mature plants tolerate drought very well, and should not be watered unless drought conditions persist. Overwatering can lead to root rot as well as other fungal diseases. For healthy growth, keep the plant trimmed.
Harvesting:
Harvest fresh leaves as soon as the plant reaches a height of 6". The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried. Entire stems or the whole plant can also be cut slightly above ground level, since this will encourage new growth. To dry entire stems, cut them off and bundle them; hang them upside down in a dry, dark place for about 2 weeks. Strip the leaves from the stems and store them in a cool, dry place.
Tarragon is best used fresh. The leaves don’t dry very well, but can be frozen to preserve their fresh taste. Pick leaves and put in ice cube tray and cover with water.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
The small green flowers should appear sometime in the fall, though the plant may not have time to produce seed if the growing season is too short. Harvest them individually as they begin to develop mature seed, which will look almost like black dust. Carefully gather the heads and spread them out to dry away from direct sunlight, then shake them lightly to remove the seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry place.
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet, anise flavor.
Culinary Use:
Use in soups, vegetables, mild cheeses, fish, and to flavor vinegar.
Leaves: raw or used as a flavoring in soups etc. Tarragon is a commonly used herbal flavoring that is used in many traditional recipes. It is particularly of value because of its beneficial effect upon the digestion and so is often used with oily foods. The leaves can also be harvested in late summer and dried for later use. The aromatic leaves have a very nice flavor that is somewhat licorice-like. They make an excellent flavoring in salads. The young shoots can also be cooked and used as a potherb. The leaves are used as a flavoring in vinegar. An essential oil from the leaves is used as a flavoring.
Medicinal:
Tarragon is a bitter warming aromatic herb that stimulates the digestive system and uterus, lowers fevers and destroys intestinal worms. It is little used in modern herbalism, though it is sometimes employed as an appetizer. The leaves (and an essential oil obtained from them) are antiscorbutic, diuretic, emmenagogue, hypnotic and stomachic. An infusion is used in the treatment of indigestion, flatulence, nausea, hiccups etc. The plant is mildly sedative and has been taken to aid sleep. It also has mild emmenagogue properties and can be used to induce a delayed period. A poultice can be used to relieve rheumatism, gout, arthritis and toothache. The plant is harvested in the summer and can be dried for later use. This herb should not be prescribed for pregnant women. The root has been used to cure toothache. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy to treat digestive and menstrual problems.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Tarragon is one of the aromatic herbs recommended by companion gardeners to improve growth and flavor of neighboring vegetables.
Companions: Place a tarragon plant at the corners of raised beds, grow it in the herb garden, or interplant it among plots of eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, and other vegetables. Tarragon also adapts well to life in a container, either outside or on a sunny windowsill.
Enemies: None known. Tarragon is a member of the same genus as wormwood, but it appears to lack the toxic qualities of that herb.
Problems:
Susceptible to root rot in moist soils, particularly poorly drained ones. French tarragon does not always survive winters, and wet soils in winter is a common cause of plant demise.
Thyme
How to Grow Thyme
Germination:
Start thyme herb seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost, sowing them 1/4" deep in a flat. Keep them out of direct sunlight, but make sure the soil temperature is at least 70 degrees F. Germination may take up to 28 days. Well after the last frost, transplant the seedlings 9-12" apart in sandy soil and full sun. Direct sowing is possible but not recommended, since the seeds take much longer to germinate in the cool soil of spring; this significantly shortens the growing season and delays the harvest of fresh leaves. Thyme also grows well as a container plant, and can be propogated from cuttings or root division. As a companion plant, thyme attracts bees and discourages harmful insects such as the cabbage butterfly.
Make sure the seedlings have adequate moisture, but as soon as they are established do not water them. Thyme thrives on neglect, preferring dry soil with no fertilization. If the soil becomes too wet, the plant may suffer from root rot or other fungal diseases. Control weeds to prevent them from competing with the slow developing thyme. Mulch may help to keep the leaves clean and discourage weeds. After the second spring of the plants' growth, prune the plants down to half their height to encourage tender stems and neat growth.
Crop Care:
Thyme is an easy crop to grow, and requires little care. If Thyme starts to get woody cut it back to within a couple of inches of the ground and it will regenerate. You can also dig it up, divide it and replant the most vigorous pieces.
Water Needs: Low. Thyme is quite drought tolerant so only needs an occasional watering once established.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Thyme will grow well in poor soil and doesn't need much fertilization.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 2 weeks. Just give Thyme enough water so it doesn't dry up completely. Too much water will cause the roots to rot (and it generally tastes better if it doesn't have much water). If you're in a hotter place where the soil dries quickly, or you're container gardening, water more frequently.
Pruning: 1 time. If it starts to get woody, prune in spring to encourage new growth.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Water Needs: Low. Thyme is quite drought tolerant so only needs an occasional watering once established.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Thyme will grow well in poor soil and doesn't need much fertilization.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 2 weeks. Just give Thyme enough water so it doesn't dry up completely. Too much water will cause the roots to rot (and it generally tastes better if it doesn't have much water). If you're in a hotter place where the soil dries quickly, or you're container gardening, water more frequently.
Pruning: 1 time. If it starts to get woody, prune in spring to encourage new growth.
Support: No.
Storage:
Thyme is good fresh or dried. It is a traditional ingredient of “Fines Herbes”, and Bouquet Garni.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
When flowers are dry, crush them in a bag or over a bowl. Be sure to collect seeds before they fall from the plant.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Culinary:
Taste:
Lovely thyme flavor.
Culinary Use:
Thyme is widely used in cooking, fresh or dried. The herb is a basic ingredient in many dishes from around the Mediterranean region, and is especially compatible with lamb, tomatoes and eggs. You can also use it to flavor stews, soups, sauces, meat, fish, vegetables, salads, or flavoring for vinegar.
Medicinal:
Common thyme has a very long history of folk use for a wide range of ailments. It is very rich in essential oils and these are the active ingredients responsible for most of the medicinal properties. In particular, thyme is valued for its antiseptic and antioxidant properties, it is an excellent tonic and is used in treating respiratory diseases and a variety of other ailments. The flowering tops are anthelmintic, strongly antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, deodorant, diaphoretic, disinfectant, expectorant, sedative and tonic. The plant is used internally in the treatment of dry coughs, whooping cough, bronchitis, bronchial catarrh, asthma, laryngitis, indigestion, gastritis and diarrhea and enuresis in children. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Externally, it is used in the treatment of tonsillitis, gum diseases, rheumatism, arthritis and fungal infections. The plant can be used fresh at any time of the year, or it can be harvested as it comes into flower and either be distilled for the oil or dried for later use. Thyme has an antioxidant effect, thus regular use of this herb improves the health and longevity of individual body cells and therefore prolongs the life of the body. The essential oil is strongly antiseptic. The whole herb is used in the treatment of digestive disorders, sore throats, fevers etc. The essential oil is one of the most important oils used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Bacterial". It is used especially in cases of exhaustion, depression, upper respiratory tract infections, skin and scalp complaints etc. The oil can cause allergic reactions and irritation to the skin and mucous membranes.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Companion gardeners recommend planting thyme with just about everything in the garden; this herb is said to improve flavor and repel pets. Eggplants cabbage, potatoes, and tomatoes are often mentioned as companions. Scientific evidence is sparse; in one study, the presence of thyme appeared to increase the population of cabbageworms on neighboring plants. Another study suggests that thyme sprays may be more effective at masking plants from pests that seek hosts by smell.
Companions: Grow only nonspreading types of this herb in the vegetable garden. Common thyme (Thymus vulgaris), an upright, shrubby type, is a good choice for interplanting with vegetables. Spreading, mat-forming thymes, such as the popular wooly thyme (T. pseudolanuginosus), are best kept in separate beds or in the herb and flower garden.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
No serious problems. Some susceptibility to root rot, particularly if soil is too moist.
Other Uses:
An essential oil from the leaves is frequently used in perfumery, soaps, toothpastes, mouthwashes, medicinally etc. It has fungicidal properties and is also used to prevent mildew. The leaves are dried and used in potpourri. The plant makes an attractive ground cover for a sunny position. The dried flowers are used to repel moths from clothing whilst the growing plant is said to repel cabbage root fly.
Start thyme herb seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost, sowing them 1/4" deep in a flat. Keep them out of direct sunlight, but make sure the soil temperature is at least 70 degrees F. Germination may take up to 28 days. Well after the last frost, transplant the seedlings 9-12" apart in sandy soil and full sun. Direct sowing is possible but not recommended, since the seeds take much longer to germinate in the cool soil of spring; this significantly shortens the growing season and delays the harvest of fresh leaves. Thyme also grows well as a container plant, and can be propogated from cuttings or root division. As a companion plant, thyme attracts bees and discourages harmful insects such as the cabbage butterfly.
Make sure the seedlings have adequate moisture, but as soon as they are established do not water them. Thyme thrives on neglect, preferring dry soil with no fertilization. If the soil becomes too wet, the plant may suffer from root rot or other fungal diseases. Control weeds to prevent them from competing with the slow developing thyme. Mulch may help to keep the leaves clean and discourage weeds. After the second spring of the plants' growth, prune the plants down to half their height to encourage tender stems and neat growth.
Crop Care:
Thyme is an easy crop to grow, and requires little care. If Thyme starts to get woody cut it back to within a couple of inches of the ground and it will regenerate. You can also dig it up, divide it and replant the most vigorous pieces.
Water Needs: Low. Thyme is quite drought tolerant so only needs an occasional watering once established.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Thyme will grow well in poor soil and doesn't need much fertilization.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 2 weeks. Just give Thyme enough water so it doesn't dry up completely. Too much water will cause the roots to rot (and it generally tastes better if it doesn't have much water). If you're in a hotter place where the soil dries quickly, or you're container gardening, water more frequently.
Pruning: 1 time. If it starts to get woody, prune in spring to encourage new growth.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Water Needs: Low. Thyme is quite drought tolerant so only needs an occasional watering once established.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Thyme will grow well in poor soil and doesn't need much fertilization.
Watering: Water, 0.5", every 2 weeks. Just give Thyme enough water so it doesn't dry up completely. Too much water will cause the roots to rot (and it generally tastes better if it doesn't have much water). If you're in a hotter place where the soil dries quickly, or you're container gardening, water more frequently.
Pruning: 1 time. If it starts to get woody, prune in spring to encourage new growth.
Support: No.
Storage:
Thyme is good fresh or dried. It is a traditional ingredient of “Fines Herbes”, and Bouquet Garni.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
When flowers are dry, crush them in a bag or over a bowl. Be sure to collect seeds before they fall from the plant.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Culinary:
Taste:
Lovely thyme flavor.
Culinary Use:
Thyme is widely used in cooking, fresh or dried. The herb is a basic ingredient in many dishes from around the Mediterranean region, and is especially compatible with lamb, tomatoes and eggs. You can also use it to flavor stews, soups, sauces, meat, fish, vegetables, salads, or flavoring for vinegar.
Medicinal:
Common thyme has a very long history of folk use for a wide range of ailments. It is very rich in essential oils and these are the active ingredients responsible for most of the medicinal properties. In particular, thyme is valued for its antiseptic and antioxidant properties, it is an excellent tonic and is used in treating respiratory diseases and a variety of other ailments. The flowering tops are anthelmintic, strongly antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, deodorant, diaphoretic, disinfectant, expectorant, sedative and tonic. The plant is used internally in the treatment of dry coughs, whooping cough, bronchitis, bronchial catarrh, asthma, laryngitis, indigestion, gastritis and diarrhea and enuresis in children. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Externally, it is used in the treatment of tonsillitis, gum diseases, rheumatism, arthritis and fungal infections. The plant can be used fresh at any time of the year, or it can be harvested as it comes into flower and either be distilled for the oil or dried for later use. Thyme has an antioxidant effect, thus regular use of this herb improves the health and longevity of individual body cells and therefore prolongs the life of the body. The essential oil is strongly antiseptic. The whole herb is used in the treatment of digestive disorders, sore throats, fevers etc. The essential oil is one of the most important oils used in aromatherapy. Its keyword is "Bacterial". It is used especially in cases of exhaustion, depression, upper respiratory tract infections, skin and scalp complaints etc. The oil can cause allergic reactions and irritation to the skin and mucous membranes.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Companion gardeners recommend planting thyme with just about everything in the garden; this herb is said to improve flavor and repel pets. Eggplants cabbage, potatoes, and tomatoes are often mentioned as companions. Scientific evidence is sparse; in one study, the presence of thyme appeared to increase the population of cabbageworms on neighboring plants. Another study suggests that thyme sprays may be more effective at masking plants from pests that seek hosts by smell.
Companions: Grow only nonspreading types of this herb in the vegetable garden. Common thyme (Thymus vulgaris), an upright, shrubby type, is a good choice for interplanting with vegetables. Spreading, mat-forming thymes, such as the popular wooly thyme (T. pseudolanuginosus), are best kept in separate beds or in the herb and flower garden.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
No serious problems. Some susceptibility to root rot, particularly if soil is too moist.
Other Uses:
An essential oil from the leaves is frequently used in perfumery, soaps, toothpastes, mouthwashes, medicinally etc. It has fungicidal properties and is also used to prevent mildew. The leaves are dried and used in potpourri. The plant makes an attractive ground cover for a sunny position. The dried flowers are used to repel moths from clothing whilst the growing plant is said to repel cabbage root fly.
Toothache Plant
How to Grow Toothache Plant
Germination:
Start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost date. A heat mat helps as the seeds prefer it to be at least 70° to germinate. Toothache plant seeds need sunlight to germinate so do not cover with soil until after they sprout.
Crop Care:
Transplant outside in prepared soil that is rich in compost in a well drained area when all danger of frost has passed. Keep the soil moderately moist as the plant dislikes saturated or boggy ground and stem rot or general poor growth is likely. Toothache plant likes grows best in full sun but can tolerate some shade. Plants can sprawl out up to 2 feet, so space 12-15" apart. Once the young plants have several sets of mature leaves, pinch back the stems to encourage a more bushy and compact growth.
Harvesting:
Toothache plant leaves can be picked at any time but always best when fresh when the leaves are flavorful. Wait until after it has reached 6-7 in height before harvesting. Continue to pick the leaves during and after blooming.
Seed Saving:
Allow seed heads to dry on the plants. Remove and collect the seed, which then can be cleaned and stored until planting time.
Culinary:
Attractive annual ground-cover that's edible. The young leaves have a slight peppery taste when added to salads.
Medicinal:
Spilanthes is an herb used in folk medicine throughout India. Of primary medicinal use are the roots and flowers of toothache plant. Chewing on the blooms of the toothache plant causes a local anesthetic effect and has been used to temporarily ease the pain of, yes, you guessed it — toothaches.
Spilanthes flowers have also been utilized as a urinary antiseptic and even as a treatment for malaria by the indigenous people of the tropics. The active ingredient in Spilanthes is called Spilanthol. Spilanthol is an antiseptic alkaloid found throughout the entire plant but with the greatest amounts located in the flowers.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Spilanthes plantings complement other plants with yellow and red blooms or even foliage such as coleus varietals.
Start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost date. A heat mat helps as the seeds prefer it to be at least 70° to germinate. Toothache plant seeds need sunlight to germinate so do not cover with soil until after they sprout.
Crop Care:
Transplant outside in prepared soil that is rich in compost in a well drained area when all danger of frost has passed. Keep the soil moderately moist as the plant dislikes saturated or boggy ground and stem rot or general poor growth is likely. Toothache plant likes grows best in full sun but can tolerate some shade. Plants can sprawl out up to 2 feet, so space 12-15" apart. Once the young plants have several sets of mature leaves, pinch back the stems to encourage a more bushy and compact growth.
Harvesting:
Toothache plant leaves can be picked at any time but always best when fresh when the leaves are flavorful. Wait until after it has reached 6-7 in height before harvesting. Continue to pick the leaves during and after blooming.
Seed Saving:
Allow seed heads to dry on the plants. Remove and collect the seed, which then can be cleaned and stored until planting time.
Culinary:
Attractive annual ground-cover that's edible. The young leaves have a slight peppery taste when added to salads.
Medicinal:
Spilanthes is an herb used in folk medicine throughout India. Of primary medicinal use are the roots and flowers of toothache plant. Chewing on the blooms of the toothache plant causes a local anesthetic effect and has been used to temporarily ease the pain of, yes, you guessed it — toothaches.
Spilanthes flowers have also been utilized as a urinary antiseptic and even as a treatment for malaria by the indigenous people of the tropics. The active ingredient in Spilanthes is called Spilanthol. Spilanthol is an antiseptic alkaloid found throughout the entire plant but with the greatest amounts located in the flowers.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Spilanthes plantings complement other plants with yellow and red blooms or even foliage such as coleus varietals.
Valerian
How to Grow Valerian
Germination:
Valerian seeds require light to germinate so it is best if sown 1/8th inch below the soil surface. Valerian also requires heat to germinate so make sure the temperature is 65-75F. If your home is cold, you can try creating a mini-greenhouse over your seed trays with plastic wrap. Keep the soil moist and germination should occur in 7-21 days.
Crop Care:
Set your seedlings outside two to four weeks before your last frost. Space them 18-36” apart in full sun, consistently moist conditions, and soil consisting of fertile loam with a pH anywhere between 6.0-8.0.
Harvesting:
Dig roots in fall or early spring and dry outdoors, because they release an unpleasant smell as they dry. Store in airtight container. Dried valerian roots are used to make a bedtime tea that promotes sleep. They are also much loved by cats and dogs.
Seed Saving:
Valerian spreads by rhizomes and seeds. This plant will self sow so if you want to control its spread you will need to cut back flowering stems before they can shed seeds in your garden.
Culinary:
An essential oil from the leaves and root is used as a flavoring in ice cream, baked goods, condiments etc. It is especially important in apple flavors. The leaves can also be used as a condiment. The plant is used in moderation as a herbal tea.
Medicinal:
Valerian is a well-known and frequently used medicinal herb that has a long and proven history of efficacy. It is noted especially for its effect as a tranquilizer and nervine, particularly for those people suffering from nervous overstrain. Valerian has been shown to encourage sleep, improve sleep quality and reduce blood pressure. It is also used internally in the treatment of painful menstruation, cramps, hypertension, irritable bowel syndrome etc. It should not be prescribed for patients with liver problems. Externally, it is used to treat eczema, ulcers and minor injuries. The root is antispasmodic, carminative, diuretic, hypnotic, powerfully nervine, sedative and stimulant. The active ingredients are called valepotriates, research has confirmed that these have a calming effect on agitated people, but are also a stimulant in cases of fatigue. The roots of 2 year old plants are harvested in the autumn once the leaves have died down and are used fresh or dried. The fresh root is about 3 times as effective as roots dried at 40C, whilst temperatures above 82C destroy the active principle in the root. Use with caution, see the notes above on toxicity.
Known Hazards: It is said that prolonged medicinal use of this plant can lead to addiction. A course of treatment should not exceed 3 months.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Echinacea, Catnip, Agastache and Dill. Often planted with low, mound-forming herbs and flowers.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Valerian seeds require light to germinate so it is best if sown 1/8th inch below the soil surface. Valerian also requires heat to germinate so make sure the temperature is 65-75F. If your home is cold, you can try creating a mini-greenhouse over your seed trays with plastic wrap. Keep the soil moist and germination should occur in 7-21 days.
Crop Care:
Set your seedlings outside two to four weeks before your last frost. Space them 18-36” apart in full sun, consistently moist conditions, and soil consisting of fertile loam with a pH anywhere between 6.0-8.0.
Harvesting:
Dig roots in fall or early spring and dry outdoors, because they release an unpleasant smell as they dry. Store in airtight container. Dried valerian roots are used to make a bedtime tea that promotes sleep. They are also much loved by cats and dogs.
Seed Saving:
Valerian spreads by rhizomes and seeds. This plant will self sow so if you want to control its spread you will need to cut back flowering stems before they can shed seeds in your garden.
Culinary:
An essential oil from the leaves and root is used as a flavoring in ice cream, baked goods, condiments etc. It is especially important in apple flavors. The leaves can also be used as a condiment. The plant is used in moderation as a herbal tea.
Medicinal:
Valerian is a well-known and frequently used medicinal herb that has a long and proven history of efficacy. It is noted especially for its effect as a tranquilizer and nervine, particularly for those people suffering from nervous overstrain. Valerian has been shown to encourage sleep, improve sleep quality and reduce blood pressure. It is also used internally in the treatment of painful menstruation, cramps, hypertension, irritable bowel syndrome etc. It should not be prescribed for patients with liver problems. Externally, it is used to treat eczema, ulcers and minor injuries. The root is antispasmodic, carminative, diuretic, hypnotic, powerfully nervine, sedative and stimulant. The active ingredients are called valepotriates, research has confirmed that these have a calming effect on agitated people, but are also a stimulant in cases of fatigue. The roots of 2 year old plants are harvested in the autumn once the leaves have died down and are used fresh or dried. The fresh root is about 3 times as effective as roots dried at 40C, whilst temperatures above 82C destroy the active principle in the root. Use with caution, see the notes above on toxicity.
Known Hazards: It is said that prolonged medicinal use of this plant can lead to addiction. A course of treatment should not exceed 3 months.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Echinacea, Catnip, Agastache and Dill. Often planted with low, mound-forming herbs and flowers.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Yarrow
How to Grow Yarrow
Germination:
Direct sow the seed in fall or early spring; fall planted seed will remain dormant until spring. To start the seeds indoors, plant them just below the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. Keep the soil temperature at 65-75 degrees F, but out of the hottest rays of sunlight. When the seedlings grow big enough to handle safely and there is no chance of frost, plant them 18-24” apart. Yarrow grows best in full sun and sandy or well drained soil, though it tolerates drought conditions.
Propagate new plants from old by by lifting and dividing the clump into smaller sections in spring; replant immediately.
While the young plants should be watered to help them establish a deep root system, too much watering of mature plants can cause stem and root rot or mildew. Since yarrow tends to flop over in fertile soil or shade, staking may be needed; this also protects the plant’s fragile stems in high winds. Deadhead the wilted blossoms often for continued blooming. After the plant has finished blooming, cut the plant down to its lower leaves for healthy spring growth. When the plant becomes 3-4 years old, it will benefit from being dug up and divided in the early spring or fall. Because yarrow can become invasive through the spread of roots and its reseeding habit, care should be taken to control the spread of the plant. This can be done by putting a barrier underground surrounding the plant’s roots, or by growing the plant in large container. This plant attracts butterflies and beneficial insects as well as repelling deer and rabbits, and grows well in borders or large containers. As a companion plant with herbs, it increases their fragrance, flavor, and essential oils.
Crop Care:
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrow from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
Harvesting:
Gather leaves and flowers as soon as they mature. Harvest the whole stem as soon as it begins to bloom; bundle the stems and hang them upside down to dry away from direct sunlight. Yarrow blossoms make good cut flowers, and when dried they hold their color well. Keep in mind that if the flowers have been open for more than a day, they will go to seed as they dry. Individual blossoms or leaves can also be harvested and spread out to dry in a protected location.
Storage:
To store yarrow properly, it must be dried carefully to avoid mildew. As with most herbs, the entire aerial plant (excluding the roots) can be cut and bundled, before hanging upside down to dry. This is an easy way to get a large quantity of plant material. You can also pick flowers and leaves directly off the stems, and lay them out to dry. My favorite method is still to harvest the flowers individually and have a newspaper in
The dried material is lightweight, so drafts should be avoided. Yarrow also seems to fade quickly if left in sunlight, so be certain to keep it in a dark container or in an out of the way place.
Seed Saving:
Plants spread aggressively by rhizomes and self-seeding, and can naturalize into substantial colonies if left unchecked.
Allow the flower heads to mature and begin to dry; the stem will start to turn brown. Remove the heads and spread them out to dry out of direct sunlight, then rub them lightly to release the seeds. Store the seed in a cool, dark place.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. A rather bitter flavor, they make an acceptable addition to mixed salads and are best used when young. The leaves are also used as a hop-substitute for flavoring and as a preservative for beer etc. Although in general yarrow is a very nutritious and beneficial plant to add to the diet, some caution should be exercised. An aromatic tea is made from the flowers and leaves. An essential oil from the flowering heads is used as a flavoring for soft drinks.
Companion Planting:
Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. Yarrow is a great companion plant for many vegetable and fruit plants because it attracts pollinating bees and beneficial aphid-eating insects into the garden. Plant close to brassicas, tomatoes, melons, aubergine, beans, spinach. Yarrow is also beneficial to aromatic herbs like lavender, basil, rosemary, thyme and oregano. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among them.
Problems:
Stem rot, powdery mildew and rust are occasional disease problems. Plant stems are weak and lodge easily. If grown ornamentally, plants can develop into a tangled mass of stems and foliage by mid to late summer if not cut back. Strong summer rain storms with high winds can easily flatten exposed plantings. May spread somewhat aggressively.
Direct sow the seed in fall or early spring; fall planted seed will remain dormant until spring. To start the seeds indoors, plant them just below the surface of the soil since they need light to germinate. Keep the soil temperature at 65-75 degrees F, but out of the hottest rays of sunlight. When the seedlings grow big enough to handle safely and there is no chance of frost, plant them 18-24” apart. Yarrow grows best in full sun and sandy or well drained soil, though it tolerates drought conditions.
Propagate new plants from old by by lifting and dividing the clump into smaller sections in spring; replant immediately.
While the young plants should be watered to help them establish a deep root system, too much watering of mature plants can cause stem and root rot or mildew. Since yarrow tends to flop over in fertile soil or shade, staking may be needed; this also protects the plant’s fragile stems in high winds. Deadhead the wilted blossoms often for continued blooming. After the plant has finished blooming, cut the plant down to its lower leaves for healthy spring growth. When the plant becomes 3-4 years old, it will benefit from being dug up and divided in the early spring or fall. Because yarrow can become invasive through the spread of roots and its reseeding habit, care should be taken to control the spread of the plant. This can be done by putting a barrier underground surrounding the plant’s roots, or by growing the plant in large container. This plant attracts butterflies and beneficial insects as well as repelling deer and rabbits, and grows well in borders or large containers. As a companion plant with herbs, it increases their fragrance, flavor, and essential oils.
Crop Care:
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrow from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
Harvesting:
Gather leaves and flowers as soon as they mature. Harvest the whole stem as soon as it begins to bloom; bundle the stems and hang them upside down to dry away from direct sunlight. Yarrow blossoms make good cut flowers, and when dried they hold their color well. Keep in mind that if the flowers have been open for more than a day, they will go to seed as they dry. Individual blossoms or leaves can also be harvested and spread out to dry in a protected location.
Storage:
To store yarrow properly, it must be dried carefully to avoid mildew. As with most herbs, the entire aerial plant (excluding the roots) can be cut and bundled, before hanging upside down to dry. This is an easy way to get a large quantity of plant material. You can also pick flowers and leaves directly off the stems, and lay them out to dry. My favorite method is still to harvest the flowers individually and have a newspaper in
The dried material is lightweight, so drafts should be avoided. Yarrow also seems to fade quickly if left in sunlight, so be certain to keep it in a dark container or in an out of the way place.
Seed Saving:
Plants spread aggressively by rhizomes and self-seeding, and can naturalize into substantial colonies if left unchecked.
Allow the flower heads to mature and begin to dry; the stem will start to turn brown. Remove the heads and spread them out to dry out of direct sunlight, then rub them lightly to release the seeds. Store the seed in a cool, dark place.
Culinary:
Leaves: raw or cooked. A rather bitter flavor, they make an acceptable addition to mixed salads and are best used when young. The leaves are also used as a hop-substitute for flavoring and as a preservative for beer etc. Although in general yarrow is a very nutritious and beneficial plant to add to the diet, some caution should be exercised. An aromatic tea is made from the flowers and leaves. An essential oil from the flowering heads is used as a flavoring for soft drinks.
Companion Planting:
Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. Yarrow is a great companion plant for many vegetable and fruit plants because it attracts pollinating bees and beneficial aphid-eating insects into the garden. Plant close to brassicas, tomatoes, melons, aubergine, beans, spinach. Yarrow is also beneficial to aromatic herbs like lavender, basil, rosemary, thyme and oregano. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among them.
Problems:
Stem rot, powdery mildew and rust are occasional disease problems. Plant stems are weak and lodge easily. If grown ornamentally, plants can develop into a tangled mass of stems and foliage by mid to late summer if not cut back. Strong summer rain storms with high winds can easily flatten exposed plantings. May spread somewhat aggressively.
Vegetables
Amaranth
How to Grow Amaranth
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Amaranth is a tropical plant that uses C4 photosynthesis (like corn and sunflower), which makes it particularly efficient in high heat and light intensities. Plant Amaranth in a warm sheltered spot with full sun.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 75°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Amaranth is a tropical plant so likes warm soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Amaranth is sown 1/4" in cool soil, 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 12"-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Put the plants 12" to 24" apart each way in offset rows.
Summer Crop:
2-4 weeks after Last frost date: Amaranth is sown ¼˝ to ½˝ deep by broadcasting (and then covering with soil) or by planting in rows. It is easy to sow a lot of plants at a time, but you usually don’t need many.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Amaranth is one of the most carefree crops you can grow. It is practically a weed itself, so it doesn't generally have much of a problem with weeds. In fact, the biggest problem may be differentiating crop Amaranth from weed Amaranth (the former commonly having a purplish tinge).
Water Needs: Moderate. Amaranth is relatively drought tolerant and too much water may cause the roots to rot. However for maximum production of both leaf and seed the soil should never be allowed to dry out.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Amaranth grows fast and produces a lot of nutrition, so it's not surprising that it is a fairly hungry plant. It does best on a well-drained and fertile soil, similar to that for corn. If growing for seed, it will require more fertilizer than if you're growing it for leaves.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week This fast growing plant grows in the hottest part of the year, so you will need to irrigate regularly. This also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. Keep well weeded when young. Be careful though, Amaranth weeds look a lot like Amaranth crop, although crop has a purplish color to the tips.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Leaves: Younger leaves will be tender and more flavorful, but you can also leave the plants to grow taller and harvest the whole stem.
Seeds: As harvest time approaches, examine the flower heads regularly for ripe seed. You can tell if the seed is ripe by biting it; a fully ripe seed will be firm rather than chewy. Don't wait to long to harvest or seed will drop. You can also enjoy the leaves. Younger leaves will be tender and more flavorful, but you can also leave the plants to grow taller and harvest the whole stem.
When and How:
Leaves, 25-45 days before maturity: Start by harvest thinning extra plants, to get them to the correct spacing of 12 - 24" apart. The leaves are best before the flowers appear. Don't harvest leaves off plants that you wish to harvest grain from as this encourages leafy production instead of seed production.
Seeds, 1-21 days after maturity: As harvest time approaches, examine the flower heads regularly for ripe seed. You can tell if the seed is ripe by biting it; a fully ripe seed will be firm rather than chewy.
Don’t wait too long to harvest, or seed will begin to drop.
When the plants begin to wither, or frost threatens, gather the entire heads by hand. If you only have a few plants you can bend the heads over a bucket and rub them to loosen the seed. If you have a lot of plants, cut the whole heads and lay them on a tarp to dry. Then beat, crush or walk on the dry heads to loosen the seeds. Other than winnowing to remove debris, they need no other preparation for eating. It is important that the seed be dried thoroughly for storage. Small quantities can be dried in a paper grocery bag.
Seed Saving:
This is pretty simple, just treat it like a grain crop and take seed from the best plants. Amaranth is monoecious, with separate male and female flowers on the same plant. They are wind pollinated, so it's best to have only one variety growing within 1000 feet (and make sure there are no wild relatives nearby). Take seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic variability.
How to: Hang mature seed heads to dry in a cloth sack. Beat the bag to thresh, and sift out the tiny, round seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 5 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Younger leaves have a milder flavor and are good to use in salads. Mature leaves have a flavor similar to spinach. Use amaranth as a substitute for spinach in recipes.
Tasty seeds can be eaten raw, sprouted, toasted, roasted, or ground into flour for baking.
Culinary Use:
Grain: The seed needs no preparation except for cleaning. Its flavor can be improved by toasting, which causes it to pop like popcorn. This can be done in a hot pan in the same way as for popcorn (if it won't pop try sprinkling a little water onto the seed). If you have a large quantity of seed, you could try popping it in the oven. Spread it 1/2" deep in a pan, cover and roast it at 350ºF for a half hour. Stir occasionally to prevent burning.
The toasted seed can be added whole to baked goods or ground to flour for baking (it's usually mixed with wheat flour). The whole raw seed can be sprouted like alfalfa until about 1/4" long and used in salads and sandwiches. It can also be boiled like millet in salt water. Some people soak it in water overnight before cooking.
Companion Planting:
Amaranth is a great dynamic accumulator that collects nutrients from deep in the soil via its tap root and then puts them into its leaves. As the leaves die, they make those nutrients available to other plants. It grows well with corn, onions, pepper, potatoes, and eggplant. It helps tomatoes to be more resistant to harmful insects and also helps potatoes yield more abundantly. It also helps loosen soil for root vegetables such as beets, carrots and radishes.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for aphids. Root rot may occur in poorly drained soils. Susceptible viruses, aster yellows and fungal leaf spot diseases. Plants grown in the ground may need staking or other support.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Amaranth is a tropical plant that uses C4 photosynthesis (like corn and sunflower), which makes it particularly efficient in high heat and light intensities. Plant Amaranth in a warm sheltered spot with full sun.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 75°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Amaranth is a tropical plant so likes warm soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Amaranth is sown 1/4" in cool soil, 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 12"-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Put the plants 12" to 24" apart each way in offset rows.
Summer Crop:
2-4 weeks after Last frost date: Amaranth is sown ¼˝ to ½˝ deep by broadcasting (and then covering with soil) or by planting in rows. It is easy to sow a lot of plants at a time, but you usually don’t need many.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Amaranth is one of the most carefree crops you can grow. It is practically a weed itself, so it doesn't generally have much of a problem with weeds. In fact, the biggest problem may be differentiating crop Amaranth from weed Amaranth (the former commonly having a purplish tinge).
Water Needs: Moderate. Amaranth is relatively drought tolerant and too much water may cause the roots to rot. However for maximum production of both leaf and seed the soil should never be allowed to dry out.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Amaranth grows fast and produces a lot of nutrition, so it's not surprising that it is a fairly hungry plant. It does best on a well-drained and fertile soil, similar to that for corn. If growing for seed, it will require more fertilizer than if you're growing it for leaves.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week This fast growing plant grows in the hottest part of the year, so you will need to irrigate regularly. This also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. Keep well weeded when young. Be careful though, Amaranth weeds look a lot like Amaranth crop, although crop has a purplish color to the tips.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Leaves: Younger leaves will be tender and more flavorful, but you can also leave the plants to grow taller and harvest the whole stem.
Seeds: As harvest time approaches, examine the flower heads regularly for ripe seed. You can tell if the seed is ripe by biting it; a fully ripe seed will be firm rather than chewy. Don't wait to long to harvest or seed will drop. You can also enjoy the leaves. Younger leaves will be tender and more flavorful, but you can also leave the plants to grow taller and harvest the whole stem.
When and How:
Leaves, 25-45 days before maturity: Start by harvest thinning extra plants, to get them to the correct spacing of 12 - 24" apart. The leaves are best before the flowers appear. Don't harvest leaves off plants that you wish to harvest grain from as this encourages leafy production instead of seed production.
Seeds, 1-21 days after maturity: As harvest time approaches, examine the flower heads regularly for ripe seed. You can tell if the seed is ripe by biting it; a fully ripe seed will be firm rather than chewy.
Don’t wait too long to harvest, or seed will begin to drop.
When the plants begin to wither, or frost threatens, gather the entire heads by hand. If you only have a few plants you can bend the heads over a bucket and rub them to loosen the seed. If you have a lot of plants, cut the whole heads and lay them on a tarp to dry. Then beat, crush or walk on the dry heads to loosen the seeds. Other than winnowing to remove debris, they need no other preparation for eating. It is important that the seed be dried thoroughly for storage. Small quantities can be dried in a paper grocery bag.
Seed Saving:
This is pretty simple, just treat it like a grain crop and take seed from the best plants. Amaranth is monoecious, with separate male and female flowers on the same plant. They are wind pollinated, so it's best to have only one variety growing within 1000 feet (and make sure there are no wild relatives nearby). Take seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic variability.
How to: Hang mature seed heads to dry in a cloth sack. Beat the bag to thresh, and sift out the tiny, round seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 5 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Younger leaves have a milder flavor and are good to use in salads. Mature leaves have a flavor similar to spinach. Use amaranth as a substitute for spinach in recipes.
Tasty seeds can be eaten raw, sprouted, toasted, roasted, or ground into flour for baking.
Culinary Use:
Grain: The seed needs no preparation except for cleaning. Its flavor can be improved by toasting, which causes it to pop like popcorn. This can be done in a hot pan in the same way as for popcorn (if it won't pop try sprinkling a little water onto the seed). If you have a large quantity of seed, you could try popping it in the oven. Spread it 1/2" deep in a pan, cover and roast it at 350ºF for a half hour. Stir occasionally to prevent burning.
The toasted seed can be added whole to baked goods or ground to flour for baking (it's usually mixed with wheat flour). The whole raw seed can be sprouted like alfalfa until about 1/4" long and used in salads and sandwiches. It can also be boiled like millet in salt water. Some people soak it in water overnight before cooking.
Companion Planting:
Amaranth is a great dynamic accumulator that collects nutrients from deep in the soil via its tap root and then puts them into its leaves. As the leaves die, they make those nutrients available to other plants. It grows well with corn, onions, pepper, potatoes, and eggplant. It helps tomatoes to be more resistant to harmful insects and also helps potatoes yield more abundantly. It also helps loosen soil for root vegetables such as beets, carrots and radishes.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for aphids. Root rot may occur in poorly drained soils. Susceptible viruses, aster yellows and fungal leaf spot diseases. Plants grown in the ground may need staking or other support.
Artichoke
How to Grow Artichoke
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 70°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 21 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6 weeks before last frost date: Start the seed indoors 6 weeks before the last frost date, using individual 4" pots. The seedlings grow quickly, so be prepared to move them up to larger pots when necessary, or start with larger pots to begin with.
Keep seedlings in a sunny spot, giving them a light feeding of fertilizer every 2 weeks. Make sure plants get 10 hours of light a day, using additional artificial light if necessary. Keep well watered.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Transplant Seedling: Don't plant seedlings out until the soil gets warm enough (55˚F) and after danger of frost is gone. Find a place where they can grow large without shading out other plants nearby. Alternatively you could plant it in a 1 gallon pot or in a nursery bed until well rooted (and then plant it out). Water well after planting.
Transplant Suckers: Artichokes are commonly grown from the suckers (offsets) that emerge from all around the old root in spring. These are much better than growing from seed, as the plants yield earlier, are more uniform and much more productive. Rooted suckers are sometimes available in garden centers in spring, or you might be able to beg, steal or borrow some.
Suckers are taken from the parent plant when they are about 10˝ tall. The normal practice is to dig down the side of the plant and cut off the sucker with a heel of old plant root attached. Trim off most of the leaves (there isn't enough root to support them) and plant immediately in a well-prepared site. Alternatively you could plant it in a 1 gallon pot, or in a nursery bed, until well rooted (and then plant it out). Water well after planting.
Transplanting Crowns: If growing from crowns, plant in winter (warmer climates) or in spring (cold areas). Plant crowns 6 to 8" deep and 6' apart in well-drained soil, rich in organic matter. Protect with shade in hot areas (soil temperatures above 85° F will prevent bud-setting). After growth starts, water thoroughly once a week, wetting entire root system.
Cool, Warm: They grow best in the mild, damp, maritime climate of coastal California. The plants won't survive in cold winters, so in northern areas they must either be grown as annuals or protected over the winter. They need full sun.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 55°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 55°F. Don’t plant out until all frost danger is past and the soil has warmed up to at least 55˚ F.
Spacing: 24"-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Artichokes are too big to plant in intensive beds. If you want to grow them in rows space them 24 to 36˝ apart and make the rows 48 to 60˝ apart.
Support: Yes. Artichokes can get tall and top heavy and may be blown over by strong winds. You can prevent this by staking them firmly if you're in a windy place. Staking is not necessary, only if this is a problem.
Crop Care:
True to its Thistle nature, the Artichoke is a vigorous and robust plant that needs little attention once established. Its only real weakness is its lack of tolerance to cold weather.
Water Needs: Moderate. Though relatively drought tolerant, Artichokes yield better if the soil is kept evenly moist. Water is especially crucial when the buds are developing.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Artichokes are most productive when grown without any check in their growth, which means they must get all the nutrients they need. They are usually fed annually with a mulch of compost or aged manure. You can also use an occasional foliar feed of compost tea or liquid kelp.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Though relatively drought tolerant, Artichokes yield better if the soil is kept evenly moist. Water is especially crucial when the buds are developing. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Compost tea, 4 cups per plant, after sowing, every 2 months. It doesn't hurt to give the plants a feed of compost tea every couple of months during the growing season.
Protecting, when 18" tall: when 18" tall, 1 time. These tall plants are vulnerable to blowing over in strong winds. If you live in a windy area, make sure they are protected by a windbreak.
Support: Yes. Artichokes can get tall and top heavy and may be blown over by strong winds. You can prevent this by staking them firmly if you're in a windy place. Staking is not necessary, only if this is a problem.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest when the heads are still closed and the stem below the bud is still supple. Check the size, which should be close to 2" or 5" in diameter.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-84 days after maturity:
The terminal bud should be harvested as soon as it reaches full size (2" to 5" in diameter). Any smaller than this and it isn’t really worth bothering with, except perhaps in soup. The bracts should still be tight against the bud; if they have started to open it is too late.
If you miss the right harvest time, you should still cut the head off, as this stimulates the plant to produce more useful secondary buds. After the top flower buds are removed, more will be produced on side shoots. In this way a single plant can produce quite a few buds over the course of the summer.
You need to remove all of the flower buds as they are produced, even if they are not usable. If you leave any on the plant, it will waste energy making seeds. This may even cause the plant to die.
Storage:
Artichoke hearts may be canned for an out-of-season treat. Store at room temperature in the pantry.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The hearts will keep for a week or so in the vegetable drawer in the fridge. Don't rinse or cut before storing. As with any vegetable they are best eaten as fresh as possible.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 5-10 days
Seed Saving:
Saving Artichoke seed is pretty easy, but it is rarely done because they are normally propagated vegetatively. If the flowers are allowed to mature, seed is produced readily, as one flower can pollinate another on the same plant (though not itself). It sometimes self-sows itself vigorously and can become a pest.
Seed Viability in Years: 6 - 10 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste:
Buttery rich flavor.
Culinary Use:
Artichokes can be used in a variety of ways, cleaning is the most critical step. For large artichokes, cut off the stem and the top of the head and then trim back lower leaves. They are traditionally steamed. Then they can be grilled, stuffed, or eaten as individual leaves usually complimented by a dipping sauce. The gem of the artichoke is the heart, which can be eaten steamed or used in soups, salads and sauces. The small artichokes are more versatile and can be chopped, fried, sautéed or used in dips and as appetizer. Always use a water bath with lemon to keep the artichoke from turning brown during preparation.
Flower buds: raw or cooked. Used before the flowers open. The flavor is mild and pleasant. Globe artichokes are considered to be a gourmet food but they are very fiddly to eat. The buds are harvested just before the flowers open, they are then usually boiled before being eaten. Only the base of each bract is eaten, plus the "heart" or base that the petals grow from . Small, or baby artichokes, that are produced on lateral stems can be pickled or used in soups and stews. Plants yield about 5 to 6 main heads per year from their second year onward.
Flowering stems: peeled and eaten raw or cooked. A sweet nutty flavor.
Young leaf stems: a celery substitute. They are normally blanched to remove the bitterness and then boiled or eaten raw. We find them too bitter to be enjoyable.
Leaves: cooked. A bitter flavor. The dried flowers are a rennet substitute, used for curdling plant milks.
Medicinal:
The globe artichoke has become important as a medicinal herb in recent years following the discovery of cynarin. This bitter-tasting compound, which is found in the leaves, improves liver and gall bladder function, stimulates the secretion of digestive juices, especially bile, and lowers blood cholesterol levels. The leaves are anticholesterolemic, antirheumatic, cholagogue, digestive, diuretic, hypoglycaemic and lithontripic. They are used internally in the treatment of chronic liver and gall bladder diseases, jaundice, hepatitis, arteriosclerosis and the early stages of late-onset diabetes. The leaves are best harvested just before the plant flowers, and can be used fresh or dried.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Since artichokes have few pests, they don’t really need companion plants to deter pests. Artichokes are heavy feeders, so cool-season nitrogen-fixing plants like peas or vetch are good planted nearby.
Artichokes are huge plants, so they don’t really make good companion plants for other crops, especially in small gardens. If you let some of the buds get by without harvesting, they make large, spectacular flowers that feed honey bees, bumble bees, and other pollinators.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Aphids, snails, slugs and blackfly may appear. Watch for gray mold, powdery mildew or root rot.
Other Uses:
A dark grey dye is obtained from the leaves.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 70°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 21 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6 weeks before last frost date: Start the seed indoors 6 weeks before the last frost date, using individual 4" pots. The seedlings grow quickly, so be prepared to move them up to larger pots when necessary, or start with larger pots to begin with.
Keep seedlings in a sunny spot, giving them a light feeding of fertilizer every 2 weeks. Make sure plants get 10 hours of light a day, using additional artificial light if necessary. Keep well watered.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Transplant Seedling: Don't plant seedlings out until the soil gets warm enough (55˚F) and after danger of frost is gone. Find a place where they can grow large without shading out other plants nearby. Alternatively you could plant it in a 1 gallon pot or in a nursery bed until well rooted (and then plant it out). Water well after planting.
Transplant Suckers: Artichokes are commonly grown from the suckers (offsets) that emerge from all around the old root in spring. These are much better than growing from seed, as the plants yield earlier, are more uniform and much more productive. Rooted suckers are sometimes available in garden centers in spring, or you might be able to beg, steal or borrow some.
Suckers are taken from the parent plant when they are about 10˝ tall. The normal practice is to dig down the side of the plant and cut off the sucker with a heel of old plant root attached. Trim off most of the leaves (there isn't enough root to support them) and plant immediately in a well-prepared site. Alternatively you could plant it in a 1 gallon pot, or in a nursery bed, until well rooted (and then plant it out). Water well after planting.
Transplanting Crowns: If growing from crowns, plant in winter (warmer climates) or in spring (cold areas). Plant crowns 6 to 8" deep and 6' apart in well-drained soil, rich in organic matter. Protect with shade in hot areas (soil temperatures above 85° F will prevent bud-setting). After growth starts, water thoroughly once a week, wetting entire root system.
Cool, Warm: They grow best in the mild, damp, maritime climate of coastal California. The plants won't survive in cold winters, so in northern areas they must either be grown as annuals or protected over the winter. They need full sun.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 55°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 55°F. Don’t plant out until all frost danger is past and the soil has warmed up to at least 55˚ F.
Spacing: 24"-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Artichokes are too big to plant in intensive beds. If you want to grow them in rows space them 24 to 36˝ apart and make the rows 48 to 60˝ apart.
Support: Yes. Artichokes can get tall and top heavy and may be blown over by strong winds. You can prevent this by staking them firmly if you're in a windy place. Staking is not necessary, only if this is a problem.
Crop Care:
True to its Thistle nature, the Artichoke is a vigorous and robust plant that needs little attention once established. Its only real weakness is its lack of tolerance to cold weather.
Water Needs: Moderate. Though relatively drought tolerant, Artichokes yield better if the soil is kept evenly moist. Water is especially crucial when the buds are developing.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Artichokes are most productive when grown without any check in their growth, which means they must get all the nutrients they need. They are usually fed annually with a mulch of compost or aged manure. You can also use an occasional foliar feed of compost tea or liquid kelp.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Though relatively drought tolerant, Artichokes yield better if the soil is kept evenly moist. Water is especially crucial when the buds are developing. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Compost tea, 4 cups per plant, after sowing, every 2 months. It doesn't hurt to give the plants a feed of compost tea every couple of months during the growing season.
Protecting, when 18" tall: when 18" tall, 1 time. These tall plants are vulnerable to blowing over in strong winds. If you live in a windy area, make sure they are protected by a windbreak.
Support: Yes. Artichokes can get tall and top heavy and may be blown over by strong winds. You can prevent this by staking them firmly if you're in a windy place. Staking is not necessary, only if this is a problem.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest when the heads are still closed and the stem below the bud is still supple. Check the size, which should be close to 2" or 5" in diameter.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-84 days after maturity:
The terminal bud should be harvested as soon as it reaches full size (2" to 5" in diameter). Any smaller than this and it isn’t really worth bothering with, except perhaps in soup. The bracts should still be tight against the bud; if they have started to open it is too late.
If you miss the right harvest time, you should still cut the head off, as this stimulates the plant to produce more useful secondary buds. After the top flower buds are removed, more will be produced on side shoots. In this way a single plant can produce quite a few buds over the course of the summer.
You need to remove all of the flower buds as they are produced, even if they are not usable. If you leave any on the plant, it will waste energy making seeds. This may even cause the plant to die.
Storage:
Artichoke hearts may be canned for an out-of-season treat. Store at room temperature in the pantry.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The hearts will keep for a week or so in the vegetable drawer in the fridge. Don't rinse or cut before storing. As with any vegetable they are best eaten as fresh as possible.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 5-10 days
Seed Saving:
Saving Artichoke seed is pretty easy, but it is rarely done because they are normally propagated vegetatively. If the flowers are allowed to mature, seed is produced readily, as one flower can pollinate another on the same plant (though not itself). It sometimes self-sows itself vigorously and can become a pest.
Seed Viability in Years: 6 - 10 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste:
Buttery rich flavor.
Culinary Use:
Artichokes can be used in a variety of ways, cleaning is the most critical step. For large artichokes, cut off the stem and the top of the head and then trim back lower leaves. They are traditionally steamed. Then they can be grilled, stuffed, or eaten as individual leaves usually complimented by a dipping sauce. The gem of the artichoke is the heart, which can be eaten steamed or used in soups, salads and sauces. The small artichokes are more versatile and can be chopped, fried, sautéed or used in dips and as appetizer. Always use a water bath with lemon to keep the artichoke from turning brown during preparation.
Flower buds: raw or cooked. Used before the flowers open. The flavor is mild and pleasant. Globe artichokes are considered to be a gourmet food but they are very fiddly to eat. The buds are harvested just before the flowers open, they are then usually boiled before being eaten. Only the base of each bract is eaten, plus the "heart" or base that the petals grow from . Small, or baby artichokes, that are produced on lateral stems can be pickled or used in soups and stews. Plants yield about 5 to 6 main heads per year from their second year onward.
Flowering stems: peeled and eaten raw or cooked. A sweet nutty flavor.
Young leaf stems: a celery substitute. They are normally blanched to remove the bitterness and then boiled or eaten raw. We find them too bitter to be enjoyable.
Leaves: cooked. A bitter flavor. The dried flowers are a rennet substitute, used for curdling plant milks.
Medicinal:
The globe artichoke has become important as a medicinal herb in recent years following the discovery of cynarin. This bitter-tasting compound, which is found in the leaves, improves liver and gall bladder function, stimulates the secretion of digestive juices, especially bile, and lowers blood cholesterol levels. The leaves are anticholesterolemic, antirheumatic, cholagogue, digestive, diuretic, hypoglycaemic and lithontripic. They are used internally in the treatment of chronic liver and gall bladder diseases, jaundice, hepatitis, arteriosclerosis and the early stages of late-onset diabetes. The leaves are best harvested just before the plant flowers, and can be used fresh or dried.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Since artichokes have few pests, they don’t really need companion plants to deter pests. Artichokes are heavy feeders, so cool-season nitrogen-fixing plants like peas or vetch are good planted nearby.
Artichokes are huge plants, so they don’t really make good companion plants for other crops, especially in small gardens. If you let some of the buds get by without harvesting, they make large, spectacular flowers that feed honey bees, bumble bees, and other pollinators.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Aphids, snails, slugs and blackfly may appear. Watch for gray mold, powdery mildew or root rot.
Other Uses:
A dark grey dye is obtained from the leaves.
Arugula
How to Grow Arugula
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1/4" to 1/2 deep.
Soil temp for germination: 35°F to 75°F, optimal 45°F to 70°F, optimal 70°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 5 (Spring/Summer), 5 (Fall/Winter)
Transplant Outdoors:
4-5 weeks after last frost date: Arugula is very cold tolerant so you can plant seedlings outdoors almost any time the soil is workable.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Arugula prefers rich, moist soil and cooler temperatures but can withstand a variety of different climates. Hot weather causes quick bolting, so it's best to plant in fall or early spring in warmer climates.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: Arugula germinates well in cool (45˚F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚F. At higher temperatures germination gets erratic.
Spacing: 1.0"-6.0", 9 plants per sq ft. Arugula does best when it is given at least 3 to 6" of space between plants, but can be grown closer together if you intend to use the smaller leaves from the thinnings. Space the seeds about 1/2" apart to start, and thin the seedlings to about 3" apart, and again to 6" apart as the plants mature.
Support: No.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Arugula prefers rich, moist soil and cooler temperatures but can withstand a variety of different climates. Hot weather causes quick bolting, so it's best to plant in fall or early spring in warmer climates.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Arugula germinates well in cool (45˚F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚F. At higher temperatures germination gets erratic.
Seed Depth: Plant the seed 1/4 to 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 1.0"-6.0", 9 plants per sq ft. Arugula does best when it is given at least 3 to 6" of space between plants, but can be grown closer together if you intend to use the smaller leaves from the thinnings. Space the seeds about 1/2" apart to start, and thin the seedlings to about 3" apart, and again to 6" apart as the plants mature.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date. In early spring sow seeds directly into well-worked soil. Make new sowings every two weeks or so until early summer.
Fall Crop:
6-12 weeks before first frost date. Sow in late summer or early fall, for use in fall and early winter. You can also sow it in fall for a spring crop.
Winter Crop:
4-6 weeks before first frost date. Arugula is very hardy and can be grown as a winter crop in milder areas. Start the plants about 4 to 6 weeks before you expect the first frost. Though they are quite hardy, they still do better when given protection from hard frost, or the additional warmth of a cold frame or cloche.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Arugula needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need.
Water Needs: High. These fast-growing plants must have all of the water they need for rapid growth. It is important that the soil is kept moist at all times.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. These greens grow quickly and for best growth and flavor they should have all of the nutrients readily available, which means the soil needs to be fairly fertile. Their main requirement is nitrogen, but they also need moderate amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Thinning: Regularly. You can plant these greens closer together than the variety requirements and then thin them out as they grow (eat the thinnings). You can thin them to a final spacing of 6" apart.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Watering: Regularly. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. These greens are delicate and do not like to dry out. Good watering practices can help offset the negative effects of summer heat, so it is important to keep the soil constantly moist. In hot weather this may mean watering every day. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing: Regularly. If your soil is not as rich as it could be, or if the soil is cool, give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 weeks or so.
Support: No.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for uniform green leaves of at least 4 to 5".
When and How:
Cut & Come Again, 1-28 days after maturity.
When: Harvest individual leaves at 4 to 5" long, or cut bunches of young, tender leaves as needed.
How: Cut leaves at their base as needed and the plant will continue to produce leaves until it bolts. Alternatively, if you need a lot of Arugula at one time you can harvest the entire plant by cutting it at the base or by pulling it out of the soil.
Storage:
Arugula does not keep very well. You can keep it in a plastic bag in the fridge for a few days. Don't wash until you are going to use it.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Arugula is fairly easy to save seed from, you just have to leave them in the ground long enough to flower and produce seed. If any seed falls to the ground it will often self sow.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sharp peppery flavor. Distinctive, sharp, peppery leaves are best harvested when 2 to 3" long. A nice accent for mixed salads. Greens past their prime may be lightly steamed with other greens such as mustard or turnip greens, or used in creamed soups.
Culinary Use:
Arugula is a versatile green from the garden. It makes for a wonderful salad with sophisticated taste when used raw. You can also substitute it for basil in a pesto recipe for a spicier version of a classic. Some people even say they prefer it this way! Arugula can also be cooked and eaten with pasta or on top of pizza. Greens past their prime may be lightly steamed with other greens such as mustard or turnip greens, or used in creamed soups. One popular salad uses fresh arugula (preferably smaller leaves for a more delicate taste and texture) with beets, toasted walnuts, and goat cheese.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. A distinct strongly spicy flavor, the taste is best from fast, well-grown plants. A few leaves added to a salad are acceptable though the flavor is too strong for many tastes. Some people really like these leaves though most are not very keen. Older leaves that have become too hot to eat on their own can be pureed and added to soups etc. In the milder areas of Britain it is possible to produce edible leaves all year round from successional sowings, especially if the winter crop is given some protection.
Flowers: raw. The seed yields a semi-drying oil which is edible if stored 6 months and is a substitute for rapeseed oil. It contains 32% fat, 27% protein. It is known as "jamba oil". A mustard is obtained from the seed, the strong flavor comes from an essential oil that is contained within the oil of the seed. The pungency of mustard develops when cold water is added to the ground-up seed - an enzyme (myrosin) acts on a glycoside (sinigrin) to produce a sulphur compound. The reaction takes 10 - 15 minutes. Mixing with hot water or vinegar, or adding salt, inhibits the enzyme and produces a mild bitter mustard.
Medicinal:
Arugula was at one time used medicinally, though it is now used only as a salad herb. The leaves are anti-scorbutic, diuretic, stimulant and stomach. The seed is rubefacient and stimulant. The powdered seed possesses antibacterial activity, but no alkaloids have been isolated. The oil from the seed is said to have aphrodisiac properties.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: plant with bush beans, beets, carrots, celery, cucumber, dill, lettuce, mint, nasturtium, onion, potato, rosemary, spinach, and thyme.
Enemies: Strawberries.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Flea beetles can be troublesome.
Other Uses:
The seed yields a semi-drying oil which is a substitute for rapeseed oil. It can also be used for lighting, burning with very little soot.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1/4" to 1/2 deep.
Soil temp for germination: 35°F to 75°F, optimal 45°F to 70°F, optimal 70°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 5 (Spring/Summer), 5 (Fall/Winter)
Transplant Outdoors:
4-5 weeks after last frost date: Arugula is very cold tolerant so you can plant seedlings outdoors almost any time the soil is workable.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Arugula prefers rich, moist soil and cooler temperatures but can withstand a variety of different climates. Hot weather causes quick bolting, so it's best to plant in fall or early spring in warmer climates.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: Arugula germinates well in cool (45˚F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚F. At higher temperatures germination gets erratic.
Spacing: 1.0"-6.0", 9 plants per sq ft. Arugula does best when it is given at least 3 to 6" of space between plants, but can be grown closer together if you intend to use the smaller leaves from the thinnings. Space the seeds about 1/2" apart to start, and thin the seedlings to about 3" apart, and again to 6" apart as the plants mature.
Support: No.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Arugula prefers rich, moist soil and cooler temperatures but can withstand a variety of different climates. Hot weather causes quick bolting, so it's best to plant in fall or early spring in warmer climates.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Arugula germinates well in cool (45˚F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚F. At higher temperatures germination gets erratic.
Seed Depth: Plant the seed 1/4 to 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 1.0"-6.0", 9 plants per sq ft. Arugula does best when it is given at least 3 to 6" of space between plants, but can be grown closer together if you intend to use the smaller leaves from the thinnings. Space the seeds about 1/2" apart to start, and thin the seedlings to about 3" apart, and again to 6" apart as the plants mature.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date. In early spring sow seeds directly into well-worked soil. Make new sowings every two weeks or so until early summer.
Fall Crop:
6-12 weeks before first frost date. Sow in late summer or early fall, for use in fall and early winter. You can also sow it in fall for a spring crop.
Winter Crop:
4-6 weeks before first frost date. Arugula is very hardy and can be grown as a winter crop in milder areas. Start the plants about 4 to 6 weeks before you expect the first frost. Though they are quite hardy, they still do better when given protection from hard frost, or the additional warmth of a cold frame or cloche.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Arugula needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need.
Water Needs: High. These fast-growing plants must have all of the water they need for rapid growth. It is important that the soil is kept moist at all times.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. These greens grow quickly and for best growth and flavor they should have all of the nutrients readily available, which means the soil needs to be fairly fertile. Their main requirement is nitrogen, but they also need moderate amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Thinning: Regularly. You can plant these greens closer together than the variety requirements and then thin them out as they grow (eat the thinnings). You can thin them to a final spacing of 6" apart.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Watering: Regularly. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. These greens are delicate and do not like to dry out. Good watering practices can help offset the negative effects of summer heat, so it is important to keep the soil constantly moist. In hot weather this may mean watering every day. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing: Regularly. If your soil is not as rich as it could be, or if the soil is cool, give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 weeks or so.
Support: No.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for uniform green leaves of at least 4 to 5".
When and How:
Cut & Come Again, 1-28 days after maturity.
When: Harvest individual leaves at 4 to 5" long, or cut bunches of young, tender leaves as needed.
How: Cut leaves at their base as needed and the plant will continue to produce leaves until it bolts. Alternatively, if you need a lot of Arugula at one time you can harvest the entire plant by cutting it at the base or by pulling it out of the soil.
Storage:
Arugula does not keep very well. You can keep it in a plastic bag in the fridge for a few days. Don't wash until you are going to use it.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Arugula is fairly easy to save seed from, you just have to leave them in the ground long enough to flower and produce seed. If any seed falls to the ground it will often self sow.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sharp peppery flavor. Distinctive, sharp, peppery leaves are best harvested when 2 to 3" long. A nice accent for mixed salads. Greens past their prime may be lightly steamed with other greens such as mustard or turnip greens, or used in creamed soups.
Culinary Use:
Arugula is a versatile green from the garden. It makes for a wonderful salad with sophisticated taste when used raw. You can also substitute it for basil in a pesto recipe for a spicier version of a classic. Some people even say they prefer it this way! Arugula can also be cooked and eaten with pasta or on top of pizza. Greens past their prime may be lightly steamed with other greens such as mustard or turnip greens, or used in creamed soups. One popular salad uses fresh arugula (preferably smaller leaves for a more delicate taste and texture) with beets, toasted walnuts, and goat cheese.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. A distinct strongly spicy flavor, the taste is best from fast, well-grown plants. A few leaves added to a salad are acceptable though the flavor is too strong for many tastes. Some people really like these leaves though most are not very keen. Older leaves that have become too hot to eat on their own can be pureed and added to soups etc. In the milder areas of Britain it is possible to produce edible leaves all year round from successional sowings, especially if the winter crop is given some protection.
Flowers: raw. The seed yields a semi-drying oil which is edible if stored 6 months and is a substitute for rapeseed oil. It contains 32% fat, 27% protein. It is known as "jamba oil". A mustard is obtained from the seed, the strong flavor comes from an essential oil that is contained within the oil of the seed. The pungency of mustard develops when cold water is added to the ground-up seed - an enzyme (myrosin) acts on a glycoside (sinigrin) to produce a sulphur compound. The reaction takes 10 - 15 minutes. Mixing with hot water or vinegar, or adding salt, inhibits the enzyme and produces a mild bitter mustard.
Medicinal:
Arugula was at one time used medicinally, though it is now used only as a salad herb. The leaves are anti-scorbutic, diuretic, stimulant and stomach. The seed is rubefacient and stimulant. The powdered seed possesses antibacterial activity, but no alkaloids have been isolated. The oil from the seed is said to have aphrodisiac properties.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: plant with bush beans, beets, carrots, celery, cucumber, dill, lettuce, mint, nasturtium, onion, potato, rosemary, spinach, and thyme.
Enemies: Strawberries.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Flea beetles can be troublesome.
Other Uses:
The seed yields a semi-drying oil which is a substitute for rapeseed oil. It can also be used for lighting, burning with very little soot.
Asparagus
How to Grow Asparagus
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the large seed 1/2" in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 90°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 6 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 6 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Transplant Outdoors:
Young Asparagus plants are often grown in a nursery bed for a year because it is easier to look after them in a smaller area and you can discard any inferior or damaged plants. You can also plant them directly in their permanent place, but one small seedling every 24" means a lot of empty space in your garden for the year.
Plant outdoors once all danger of frost has passed.
The traditional planting procedure is to dig a hole or trench 18˝ wide and 12˝ deep. Put a small mound of compost in the trench and spread the root out flat over the mound. Cover the root with a 2˝layer of a soil mix (3 parts soil to 1 part compost) and water thoroughly. As the plants grow, slowly fill in the trench with more of the same mix. The books say don’t bury them to the full depth right away, as this can cause rot. More recent thought is that this careful planting isn't necessary. It is now said that a shallow 5 to 6" deep hole is better, you can then just put the roots in the hole and fill it up loosely.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Asparagus likes a sunny spot. It can take some light shade, but won't be as productive. These plants should be sheltered from strong winds and well away from large trees or shrubs, with their vigorous feeder roots.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F.
When min soil temp: 45°F. Asparagus can be planted out in early spring, as soon as the soil is in workable condition. However there is no rush, as it will take up to three years before you get a good harvest. Some people say late spring (after all danger of frost is passed) is actually better, as the plants grow faster in the warmer soil and there is less danger of rot.
Spacing: 18"-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The recommended spacing is 18 to 24" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil. It has been found that wider spacing produces more shoots and they also tend to be larger. In tests it was found that plants spaced 24" apart produced twice as many spears as plants that were closer together. This can give you the same harvest while using fewer plants. In a 5' wide bed you might plant three rows, with 18" between the rows and 18" between the plants.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Asparagus likes a sunny spot. It can take some light shade, but won't be as productive. These plants should be sheltered from strong winds and well away from large trees or shrubs, with their vigorous feeder roots.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Asparagus can be planted out in early spring, as soon as the soil is in workable condition. However there is no rush, as it will take up to three years before you get a good harvest. Some people say late spring (after all danger of frost is passed) is actually better, as the plants grow faster in the warmer soil and there is less danger of rot.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1". Sow the large seed 1/2" in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18"-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq. ft. The recommended spacing is 18 to 24" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil. It has been found that wider spacing produces more shoots and they also tend to be larger. In tests it was found that plants spaced 24" apart produced twice as many spears as plants that were closer together. This can give you the same harvest while using fewer plants. In a 5' wide bed you might plant three rows, with 18" between the rows and 18" between the plants.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year:
Asparagus is an independent plant, but if given even a moderate amount of care, it will be much more productive. A well cared for Asparagus bed should last for thirty years or more, but it can deteriorate quickly if neglected or over-harvested.
Water Needs: Moderate. The plants are fairly drought tolerant, but produce better if watered regularly. This is particularly important for young plants. Water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep rooting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Asparagus is a fairly hungry plant and responds well to additional nutrients.
Side Dressing: Compost (Nitrogen), 2 inches, 1 time. Asparagus is shallow rooted and its feeder roots are near the surface, so the best way to feed it is with a compost mulch (or aged manure).
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 0.25 gallons per plant, 1 time. Give the plant a liquid feed of compost tea (or liquid kelp - Asparagus loves seaweed) again in midsummer.
Watering: Water, 0.5", 2 times a week Asparagus is much more productive when given adequate water, so keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding: every 4 weeks. Hand weed when plants are young so you don't damage the shallow roots. The double digging should have removed all perennial weeds. A mulch is helpful to keep down weeds.
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 0.25 gallons per plant, 1 time. Give the plant a liquid feed of compost tea (or liquid kelp - Asparagus loves seaweed) in spring.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for tight tips of medium diameter. Harvest before they get thick and woody.
Avoid the temptation to harvest from a new bed too soon. Leave one year old roots until their 3rd year in the ground. Start harvesting 2 year old roots in their 2nd year in the ground. In both cases you should only harvest sparingly the first year (only for 2 weeks). The longer you wait, the stronger the plants will get.
When and How: Cut & Come Again
When: Wait until the plant's third year to harvest Asparagus grown from seed. The spears start to emerge when the soil is 50˚F, and are best gathered when about 4 to 6" shows above the ground and they are still tightly closed (though you get more if you wait until they are 8" long). Don’t harvest too many spears from a single root in one season as you can weaken it. Cut from a bed for 6 weeks and then leave it to regenerate. Stop harvesting earlier if the spears start to look thin.
How: Cut the spear underground, just above the crown with a sharp knife. Or snap them off as low down as they will break.
Storage:
Asparagus can be canned, but it requires a pressure canner, as it does not have enough acidity to prevent the growth of bacteria, and ordinary boiling water bath canners don't reach the temperatures high enough to kill the spores. It can also be pickled, which can be done with a regular boiling water bath canner.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 40-75°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Asparagus freezes well and this is the best way to store them for any length of time. Blanche the stems and then freeze them on a cookie sheet, keeping the stems separate. Once they are frozen, you can put them into freezer bags.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
The shoots will keep for up to a week and a half in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
Seed Saving:
You don’t really need to save Asparagus seed as it is a perennial, but it is easy enough to obtain. The plants are insect pollinated, so to keep a variety pure there should be no other Asparagus varieties (or wild plants) within a mile. The plants are dioecious and only the female plants produce the red berries, each containing 6 seeds. If you grow only males, you won't get any seed.
Don't allow the plants to produce seed unless you need it, because it takes energy away from vegetative growth.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet, mild, nutty and delicate.
Culinary Use:
Asparagus is served whole and can be steamed, boiled, roasted or grilled, although the problem with boiling Asparagus is that it leaches out many of the valuable nutrients. It is actually much better and advisable to steam or roast it. It is best to eat the asparagus as soon as you harvest it, to retain the richness in flavor.
Young shoots: raw or cooked. Considered a gourmet food, the shoots are harvested in the spring. We find them very acceptable raw in salads, with a hint of onion in their flavor. They are normally boiled or steamed and used as a vegetable. Male plants produce the best shoots. Do not over-harvest the plant because this would weaken it in the following year. The shoots are a good source of protein and dietary fiber. Roasted seeds are a coffee substitute.
Medicinal:
Asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000 years as a vegetable and medicinal herb. Both the roots and the shoots can be used medicinally, they have a restorative and cleansing effect on the bowels, kidneys and liver. The plant is antispasmodic, aperient, cardiac, demulcent, diaphoretic, diuretic, sedative and tonic. The freshly expressed juice is used. The root is diaphoretic, strongly diuretic and laxative. An infusion is used in the treatment of jaundice and congestive torpor of the liver. The strongly diuretic action of the roots make it useful in the treatment of a variety of urinary problems including cystitis. It is also used in the treatment of cancer. The roots are said to be able to lower blood pressure. The roots are harvested in late spring, after the shoots have been cut as a food crop, and are dried for later use. The seeds possess antibiotic activity. Another report says that the plant contains asparagusic acid which is nematocidal and is used in the treatment of schistosomiasis.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: According to companion gardening lore, planting parsley or tomatoes with asparagus will invigorate both crops. Sprays or interplantings of parsley, tomatoes, and basil may discourage asparagus beetles.
Companions: Interplant early crops, such as lettuce, beets, or spinach between the rows in spring. In Colonial times, grapes were sometimes trellised between the asparagus rows.
Enemies: None Known.
Problems:
Asparagus Beetles and Japanese Beetles can be a problem.
Other Uses:
The plant contains asparagusic acid, which has nematocidal properties.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the large seed 1/2" in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 90°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 6 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 6 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Transplant Outdoors:
Young Asparagus plants are often grown in a nursery bed for a year because it is easier to look after them in a smaller area and you can discard any inferior or damaged plants. You can also plant them directly in their permanent place, but one small seedling every 24" means a lot of empty space in your garden for the year.
Plant outdoors once all danger of frost has passed.
The traditional planting procedure is to dig a hole or trench 18˝ wide and 12˝ deep. Put a small mound of compost in the trench and spread the root out flat over the mound. Cover the root with a 2˝layer of a soil mix (3 parts soil to 1 part compost) and water thoroughly. As the plants grow, slowly fill in the trench with more of the same mix. The books say don’t bury them to the full depth right away, as this can cause rot. More recent thought is that this careful planting isn't necessary. It is now said that a shallow 5 to 6" deep hole is better, you can then just put the roots in the hole and fill it up loosely.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Asparagus likes a sunny spot. It can take some light shade, but won't be as productive. These plants should be sheltered from strong winds and well away from large trees or shrubs, with their vigorous feeder roots.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F.
When min soil temp: 45°F. Asparagus can be planted out in early spring, as soon as the soil is in workable condition. However there is no rush, as it will take up to three years before you get a good harvest. Some people say late spring (after all danger of frost is passed) is actually better, as the plants grow faster in the warmer soil and there is less danger of rot.
Spacing: 18"-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The recommended spacing is 18 to 24" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil. It has been found that wider spacing produces more shoots and they also tend to be larger. In tests it was found that plants spaced 24" apart produced twice as many spears as plants that were closer together. This can give you the same harvest while using fewer plants. In a 5' wide bed you might plant three rows, with 18" between the rows and 18" between the plants.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Asparagus likes a sunny spot. It can take some light shade, but won't be as productive. These plants should be sheltered from strong winds and well away from large trees or shrubs, with their vigorous feeder roots.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Asparagus can be planted out in early spring, as soon as the soil is in workable condition. However there is no rush, as it will take up to three years before you get a good harvest. Some people say late spring (after all danger of frost is passed) is actually better, as the plants grow faster in the warmer soil and there is less danger of rot.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1". Sow the large seed 1/2" in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18"-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq. ft. The recommended spacing is 18 to 24" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil. It has been found that wider spacing produces more shoots and they also tend to be larger. In tests it was found that plants spaced 24" apart produced twice as many spears as plants that were closer together. This can give you the same harvest while using fewer plants. In a 5' wide bed you might plant three rows, with 18" between the rows and 18" between the plants.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year:
Asparagus is an independent plant, but if given even a moderate amount of care, it will be much more productive. A well cared for Asparagus bed should last for thirty years or more, but it can deteriorate quickly if neglected or over-harvested.
Water Needs: Moderate. The plants are fairly drought tolerant, but produce better if watered regularly. This is particularly important for young plants. Water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep rooting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Asparagus is a fairly hungry plant and responds well to additional nutrients.
Side Dressing: Compost (Nitrogen), 2 inches, 1 time. Asparagus is shallow rooted and its feeder roots are near the surface, so the best way to feed it is with a compost mulch (or aged manure).
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 0.25 gallons per plant, 1 time. Give the plant a liquid feed of compost tea (or liquid kelp - Asparagus loves seaweed) again in midsummer.
Watering: Water, 0.5", 2 times a week Asparagus is much more productive when given adequate water, so keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding: every 4 weeks. Hand weed when plants are young so you don't damage the shallow roots. The double digging should have removed all perennial weeds. A mulch is helpful to keep down weeds.
Side Dressing: Compost tea, 0.25 gallons per plant, 1 time. Give the plant a liquid feed of compost tea (or liquid kelp - Asparagus loves seaweed) in spring.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for tight tips of medium diameter. Harvest before they get thick and woody.
Avoid the temptation to harvest from a new bed too soon. Leave one year old roots until their 3rd year in the ground. Start harvesting 2 year old roots in their 2nd year in the ground. In both cases you should only harvest sparingly the first year (only for 2 weeks). The longer you wait, the stronger the plants will get.
When and How: Cut & Come Again
When: Wait until the plant's third year to harvest Asparagus grown from seed. The spears start to emerge when the soil is 50˚F, and are best gathered when about 4 to 6" shows above the ground and they are still tightly closed (though you get more if you wait until they are 8" long). Don’t harvest too many spears from a single root in one season as you can weaken it. Cut from a bed for 6 weeks and then leave it to regenerate. Stop harvesting earlier if the spears start to look thin.
How: Cut the spear underground, just above the crown with a sharp knife. Or snap them off as low down as they will break.
Storage:
Asparagus can be canned, but it requires a pressure canner, as it does not have enough acidity to prevent the growth of bacteria, and ordinary boiling water bath canners don't reach the temperatures high enough to kill the spores. It can also be pickled, which can be done with a regular boiling water bath canner.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 40-75°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Asparagus freezes well and this is the best way to store them for any length of time. Blanche the stems and then freeze them on a cookie sheet, keeping the stems separate. Once they are frozen, you can put them into freezer bags.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
The shoots will keep for up to a week and a half in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
Seed Saving:
You don’t really need to save Asparagus seed as it is a perennial, but it is easy enough to obtain. The plants are insect pollinated, so to keep a variety pure there should be no other Asparagus varieties (or wild plants) within a mile. The plants are dioecious and only the female plants produce the red berries, each containing 6 seeds. If you grow only males, you won't get any seed.
Don't allow the plants to produce seed unless you need it, because it takes energy away from vegetative growth.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet, mild, nutty and delicate.
Culinary Use:
Asparagus is served whole and can be steamed, boiled, roasted or grilled, although the problem with boiling Asparagus is that it leaches out many of the valuable nutrients. It is actually much better and advisable to steam or roast it. It is best to eat the asparagus as soon as you harvest it, to retain the richness in flavor.
Young shoots: raw or cooked. Considered a gourmet food, the shoots are harvested in the spring. We find them very acceptable raw in salads, with a hint of onion in their flavor. They are normally boiled or steamed and used as a vegetable. Male plants produce the best shoots. Do not over-harvest the plant because this would weaken it in the following year. The shoots are a good source of protein and dietary fiber. Roasted seeds are a coffee substitute.
Medicinal:
Asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000 years as a vegetable and medicinal herb. Both the roots and the shoots can be used medicinally, they have a restorative and cleansing effect on the bowels, kidneys and liver. The plant is antispasmodic, aperient, cardiac, demulcent, diaphoretic, diuretic, sedative and tonic. The freshly expressed juice is used. The root is diaphoretic, strongly diuretic and laxative. An infusion is used in the treatment of jaundice and congestive torpor of the liver. The strongly diuretic action of the roots make it useful in the treatment of a variety of urinary problems including cystitis. It is also used in the treatment of cancer. The roots are said to be able to lower blood pressure. The roots are harvested in late spring, after the shoots have been cut as a food crop, and are dried for later use. The seeds possess antibiotic activity. Another report says that the plant contains asparagusic acid which is nematocidal and is used in the treatment of schistosomiasis.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: According to companion gardening lore, planting parsley or tomatoes with asparagus will invigorate both crops. Sprays or interplantings of parsley, tomatoes, and basil may discourage asparagus beetles.
Companions: Interplant early crops, such as lettuce, beets, or spinach between the rows in spring. In Colonial times, grapes were sometimes trellised between the asparagus rows.
Enemies: None Known.
Problems:
Asparagus Beetles and Japanese Beetles can be a problem.
Other Uses:
The plant contains asparagusic acid, which has nematocidal properties.
Beans
How to Grow Beans
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Beans are rarely grown from transplants, as they dislike transplanting. The large seeds germinate easily and grow so fast in warm soil that direct sown plants often catch up to transplanted ones anyway. If you really feel you must start them inside to avoid hungry early birds—or to try to get a very early crop—be aware that they need gentle treatment when transplanting. If the germination percentage of the seed is high, sow one seed in each soil block or cell pack. If germination is poor, plant two seeds and thin to the best one after they have both germinated. Don’t forget to inoculate them.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Plant out the transplants when the soil gets warm enough.
Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 6o˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 6o˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Seed Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Spacing: 6.-12", 4 plants per sq. ft. Space bush types 6 to 12" apart in beds.
Thinning: Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants and thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. To thin, pinch out the extra plants, as this doesn't disturb those remaining. Always try to remove the inferior plants and leave the best.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Put your first beans in the ground 2-4 weeks after the last frost date. Make sure the soil is warm enough. The seeds will rot if it's too cold. Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants.
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Inoculation:
Bean plants don’t fix nitrogen. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria that grow in nodules on their roots fix nitrogen. If the right strain of bacteria isn’t present in the soil in sufficient quantity, no nitrogen will be fixed and the bean plants will take it out of the soil just like any other plant. If you have grown beans in the past 3 to 5 years, there are probably enough bacteria already in the soil for good nitrogen fixation and you don’t need to inoculate. If you haven’t grown them recently, you should inoculate the seeds with the appropriate bacteria. This can boost pod yields by as much as 60%.
Summer Crop:
4-12 weeks after last frost date: Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Crop Care:
Water Needs: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Try and avoid wetting the leaves when watering, as mildew and fungus diseases can be spread in this way. Using drip or a soaker hose is the best way to do this. The most critical need for water is when they are flowering and sizing up their pods. A lack of water in hot weather can reduce the number of pods, so make sure they are well watered at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Beans don't need a lot of nitrogen in the soil because they fix their own. In fact, if there is a lot in the soil they won't go to the trouble of fixing it. They do need plenty of potassium and phosphorus though. They are sometimes planted after a crop that was heavily amended, or after a winter cover crop.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. The young plants can’t compete very well, so it’s important to keep down weeds initially (a mulch helps a lot). The earlier you weed, the easier it will be. Weeds are quite shallow rooted so it's best to pull weeds by hand, rather than using a hoe. Once the plants get going they can out compete any weeds. Weed regularly to keep on top of the task—ideally every 10 to 14 days. Get into the habit of weeding for a few minutes whenever you are in the garden. Remove the biggest weeds first, as these are closest to setting seed.
Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2", when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is commonly placed between the widely spaced rows of pole beans, but it is still an optional task in the garden. It's still useful because it conserves moisture and keeps down weeds (which is important while the plants are small). Don’t apply it until the soil is warm though, otherwise it may insulate the soil and keep it cool. Bush beans are not usually mulched, as mulching tends to keep the soil cool. They eventually form a living mulch, which keeps down weeds very effectively.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time a month. If your soil isn't very fertile, the pole beans may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 to 4 weeks, particularly when they start to flower. Bush beans don’t usually need feeding since they aren’t in the ground for very long.
Support: No. Bush beans do not need any support structures.
Harvesting:
Ripening: You know they are ripening when they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. As the pods ripen, early pickings are advised.
When and How:
Seed Pods, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: The pods take 18 to 21 days from pollination to full size. They are best gathered just as they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. They should still snap in half easily. Many people prefer them when they are just slightly smaller in diameter than a pencil. You might try harvesting the pods at different sizes, to see which you like best.
How: The best time to harvest is in the early morning when it is still cool. Gather the pods carefully so you don’t damage the plants. Hold on to the vine and pull down on the pod, so there is no danger of pulling the plant out of the ground.
The best way to harvest older beans is to break off the pod just below its stem and then break sideways and pull, leaving any strings attached to the plant. In humid areas, it’s best not to harvest while the foliage is wet, as this can transmit disease. You must gather the green beans conscientiously whether you want them or not, as the plants may stop producing when the first seed ripens. If you harvest Pole Beans every 2 to 3 days, it is possible to keep the plants producing for weeks. The key to a large harvest is early and regular picking (just like life, the more you take the more you get). If the harvest gets away from you, remove all the pods of any size. With luck this will encourage a new growth of pods.
Storage:
For long term storage green beans can be dried, pickled or frozen.
Storage Req: Canning, Drying, Freezer
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Green beans may be stored in plastic bags in the fridge for a few days. This is usually done until you have harvested enough for a meal.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-35°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Dry Beans are one of the best keeping food items. Store in a plastic bag, can, or container in a food pantry or cabinet.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Beans are among the easiest crops to save seed from, you just grow them like dry beans. They are mostly self-pollinating, though insects may cause some cross-pollination. For this reason it is best to have only one variety flowering at a time if possible. Isolate bean varieties a minimum of 25' for home use. For pure seed an isolation distance of 100-150' is required.
Be aware that some viruses may be transmitted through the seed. Try not to gather from diseased plants.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Crisp, tender, rich flavor.
Culinary Use:
These crisp fresh beans are a favorite prepared in a variety of dishes such as salads or used in soups and stews. They make a wonderful side dish when sautéed with a little oil or combined with other vegetables.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The green pods are commonly used as a vegetable, they have a mild flavor and should only be cooked for a short time. When growing the plant for its seedpods, be sure to pick them whilst they are still small and tender. This will ensure the continued production of more pods by the plant. Flowering is reduced once the seeds begin to form inside the pods. The immature seeds are boiled or steamed and used as a vegetable.
Mature Seeds: The mature seeds are dried and stored for future use. They must be thoroughly cooked before being eaten and are best soaked in water for about 12 hours prior to this. They can be boiled, baked, pureed, ground into a powder or fermented into "tempeh" etc. The powdered seed makes a protein-enriching additive to flour, it can also be used in soups etc. The seed can also be sprouted and used in salads or cooked. The roasted seeds have been used as a coffee substitute.
Young leaves: raw or cooked as a potherb. The very young laves are sometimes eaten as a salad, the older leaves are cooked.
Medicinal:
The green pods are mildly diuretic and contain a substance that reduces the blood sugar level. The dried mature pod is used according to another report. It is used in the treatment of diabetes. The seed is diuretic, hypoglycemic and hypotensive. Ground into a flour, it is used externally in the treatment of ulcers. The seed is also used in the treatment of cancer of the blood. When bruised and boiled with garlic they have cured intractable coughs. The root is dangerously narcotic. A homeopathic remedy is made from the entire fresh herb. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism and arthritis, plus disorders of the urinary tract.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed from the air, improving the conditions for whatever crop you plant after the beans are finished. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chard, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Beans are great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Keep beans away from the alliums.
Growing tip: Do not allow beans to mature on the plant, or it will stop producing, and do not pick beans or cultivate when they are wet, or it will spread viral diseases.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Mosaic viral disease (stunted yellow-mottled leaves), bacterial blight (irregular brown leaf blotches surrounded by yellow halos), and anthracnose (cankered pods) may appear. Additional potential disease problems include powdery mildew and white mold. Mexican bean beetles and Japanese beetles may chew holes in foliage. Watch for aphids and leafhoppers.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Beans are rarely grown from transplants, as they dislike transplanting. The large seeds germinate easily and grow so fast in warm soil that direct sown plants often catch up to transplanted ones anyway. If you really feel you must start them inside to avoid hungry early birds—or to try to get a very early crop—be aware that they need gentle treatment when transplanting. If the germination percentage of the seed is high, sow one seed in each soil block or cell pack. If germination is poor, plant two seeds and thin to the best one after they have both germinated. Don’t forget to inoculate them.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Plant out the transplants when the soil gets warm enough.
Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 6o˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 6o˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Seed Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Spacing: 6.-12", 4 plants per sq. ft. Space bush types 6 to 12" apart in beds.
Thinning: Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants and thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. To thin, pinch out the extra plants, as this doesn't disturb those remaining. Always try to remove the inferior plants and leave the best.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Put your first beans in the ground 2-4 weeks after the last frost date. Make sure the soil is warm enough. The seeds will rot if it's too cold. Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants.
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Inoculation:
Bean plants don’t fix nitrogen. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria that grow in nodules on their roots fix nitrogen. If the right strain of bacteria isn’t present in the soil in sufficient quantity, no nitrogen will be fixed and the bean plants will take it out of the soil just like any other plant. If you have grown beans in the past 3 to 5 years, there are probably enough bacteria already in the soil for good nitrogen fixation and you don’t need to inoculate. If you haven’t grown them recently, you should inoculate the seeds with the appropriate bacteria. This can boost pod yields by as much as 60%.
Summer Crop:
4-12 weeks after last frost date: Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Crop Care:
Water Needs: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Try and avoid wetting the leaves when watering, as mildew and fungus diseases can be spread in this way. Using drip or a soaker hose is the best way to do this. The most critical need for water is when they are flowering and sizing up their pods. A lack of water in hot weather can reduce the number of pods, so make sure they are well watered at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Beans don't need a lot of nitrogen in the soil because they fix their own. In fact, if there is a lot in the soil they won't go to the trouble of fixing it. They do need plenty of potassium and phosphorus though. They are sometimes planted after a crop that was heavily amended, or after a winter cover crop.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. The young plants can’t compete very well, so it’s important to keep down weeds initially (a mulch helps a lot). The earlier you weed, the easier it will be. Weeds are quite shallow rooted so it's best to pull weeds by hand, rather than using a hoe. Once the plants get going they can out compete any weeds. Weed regularly to keep on top of the task—ideally every 10 to 14 days. Get into the habit of weeding for a few minutes whenever you are in the garden. Remove the biggest weeds first, as these are closest to setting seed.
Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2", when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is commonly placed between the widely spaced rows of pole beans, but it is still an optional task in the garden. It's still useful because it conserves moisture and keeps down weeds (which is important while the plants are small). Don’t apply it until the soil is warm though, otherwise it may insulate the soil and keep it cool. Bush beans are not usually mulched, as mulching tends to keep the soil cool. They eventually form a living mulch, which keeps down weeds very effectively.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time a month. If your soil isn't very fertile, the pole beans may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 to 4 weeks, particularly when they start to flower. Bush beans don’t usually need feeding since they aren’t in the ground for very long.
Support: No. Bush beans do not need any support structures.
Harvesting:
Ripening: You know they are ripening when they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. As the pods ripen, early pickings are advised.
When and How:
Seed Pods, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: The pods take 18 to 21 days from pollination to full size. They are best gathered just as they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. They should still snap in half easily. Many people prefer them when they are just slightly smaller in diameter than a pencil. You might try harvesting the pods at different sizes, to see which you like best.
How: The best time to harvest is in the early morning when it is still cool. Gather the pods carefully so you don’t damage the plants. Hold on to the vine and pull down on the pod, so there is no danger of pulling the plant out of the ground.
The best way to harvest older beans is to break off the pod just below its stem and then break sideways and pull, leaving any strings attached to the plant. In humid areas, it’s best not to harvest while the foliage is wet, as this can transmit disease. You must gather the green beans conscientiously whether you want them or not, as the plants may stop producing when the first seed ripens. If you harvest Pole Beans every 2 to 3 days, it is possible to keep the plants producing for weeks. The key to a large harvest is early and regular picking (just like life, the more you take the more you get). If the harvest gets away from you, remove all the pods of any size. With luck this will encourage a new growth of pods.
Storage:
For long term storage green beans can be dried, pickled or frozen.
Storage Req: Canning, Drying, Freezer
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Green beans may be stored in plastic bags in the fridge for a few days. This is usually done until you have harvested enough for a meal.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-35°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Dry Beans are one of the best keeping food items. Store in a plastic bag, can, or container in a food pantry or cabinet.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Beans are among the easiest crops to save seed from, you just grow them like dry beans. They are mostly self-pollinating, though insects may cause some cross-pollination. For this reason it is best to have only one variety flowering at a time if possible. Isolate bean varieties a minimum of 25' for home use. For pure seed an isolation distance of 100-150' is required.
Be aware that some viruses may be transmitted through the seed. Try not to gather from diseased plants.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Crisp, tender, rich flavor.
Culinary Use:
These crisp fresh beans are a favorite prepared in a variety of dishes such as salads or used in soups and stews. They make a wonderful side dish when sautéed with a little oil or combined with other vegetables.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The green pods are commonly used as a vegetable, they have a mild flavor and should only be cooked for a short time. When growing the plant for its seedpods, be sure to pick them whilst they are still small and tender. This will ensure the continued production of more pods by the plant. Flowering is reduced once the seeds begin to form inside the pods. The immature seeds are boiled or steamed and used as a vegetable.
Mature Seeds: The mature seeds are dried and stored for future use. They must be thoroughly cooked before being eaten and are best soaked in water for about 12 hours prior to this. They can be boiled, baked, pureed, ground into a powder or fermented into "tempeh" etc. The powdered seed makes a protein-enriching additive to flour, it can also be used in soups etc. The seed can also be sprouted and used in salads or cooked. The roasted seeds have been used as a coffee substitute.
Young leaves: raw or cooked as a potherb. The very young laves are sometimes eaten as a salad, the older leaves are cooked.
Medicinal:
The green pods are mildly diuretic and contain a substance that reduces the blood sugar level. The dried mature pod is used according to another report. It is used in the treatment of diabetes. The seed is diuretic, hypoglycemic and hypotensive. Ground into a flour, it is used externally in the treatment of ulcers. The seed is also used in the treatment of cancer of the blood. When bruised and boiled with garlic they have cured intractable coughs. The root is dangerously narcotic. A homeopathic remedy is made from the entire fresh herb. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism and arthritis, plus disorders of the urinary tract.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed from the air, improving the conditions for whatever crop you plant after the beans are finished. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chard, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Beans are great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Keep beans away from the alliums.
Growing tip: Do not allow beans to mature on the plant, or it will stop producing, and do not pick beans or cultivate when they are wet, or it will spread viral diseases.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Mosaic viral disease (stunted yellow-mottled leaves), bacterial blight (irregular brown leaf blotches surrounded by yellow halos), and anthracnose (cankered pods) may appear. Additional potential disease problems include powdery mildew and white mold. Mexican bean beetles and Japanese beetles may chew holes in foliage. Watch for aphids and leafhoppers.
Beets
How to Grow Beets
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 10 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: When: Beets can be grown from transplants, started inside 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. They would just be a little earlier which is an advantage if you have warmer late spring weather and want an early spring crop.
How: Cell packs or soil blocks work best as beets don’t like root disturbance. Plant one seed capsule in each cavity.
Transplant Outdoors:
On last frost date: Plant out the transplants no earlier than the last frost date, as they aren’t very hardy. To get an earlier start you could warm the soil with cloches before planting (and cover the seedlings with cloches).
Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Spacing: 3"-5", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Traditionally Beets are direct sown, starting two weeks before the last frost date. The soil should be at least 50˚ F for good germination.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Fall Crop:
6-10 weeks before first frost date: Beets can also be planted in late summer, 6 to 10 weeks before first fall frost date (they work well as a fall crop). This is the crop to store for winter. In mild winter areas your fall planted Beets will continue to grow slowly over the winter and can be harvested as needed.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Support: No
Crop Care:
Beets should grow quickly for the sweetest and most tender roots. They can only do this if they get everything they need, when they need it.
Water Needs: Moderate. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. If germination is good, you will have a little clump of seedlings every 2˝. These clumps thin themselves to some extent, with the largest and most vigorous ones eventually crowding out the others. It is extremely important that the plants are thinned properly, as insufficient thinning is one of the most common reasons that plants fail to grow good roots.
First thinning: Thin the plants soon after they all emerge, when they are about an inch tall. Do this at the same time you are weeding them, ideally in cool cloudy weather. The first thinning should give you a single plant every 2˝. Don’t thin them to the final spacing at this time, as some might not survive.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds and conserves moisture. Wait until the soil is warm before applying it, however.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Second thinning: Thin the plants to the desired final spacing when they are 3 - 4" tall and the roots have swollen to an inch in diameter. The thinnings from this round are big enough to eat in salads or stir-fries.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. Beets won’t grow well if they have to compete with weeds, so make sure they are weeded properly. This is particularly important when they are young and don’t have enough foliage to cover the ground. It is best to hand weed Beets as the shoulders of the roots are easily damaged by weeding tools.
Watering, before harvest: Water, 1", before harvest, 1 time a week. Give them extra water when the roots are sizing up to boost their final size. You want to give your plants a total of 2" a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1 1/2" to 2"). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4"). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody.
When and How:
Leaves, 1-56 days after maturity. Cut and Come Again Option For Greens As long as the leaves are 4" to 5" tall you can cut the tops. Leave the smaller leaves until they reach full size. Beet leaves can be used as a cut and come again crop, so they can be enjoyed as long as the roots are in the ground.
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1½˝ to 2˝). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4˝). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody. To some extent this depends on the variety, growing methods and time of year and, so it’s not always the case.
How: Usually you can simply pull up the roots by the tops (if these are tender they can be used for greens, so don’t waste them). To minimize moisture loss in the roots, twist off the greens. If you are going to store the roots be very careful when harvesting them, as the slightest injury can lead to premature decay.
Storage:
In mild climates the roots are best left in the ground, where they will grow slowly all winter. In colder climates they can be stored in the ground, if covered with a thick mulch to keep the ground from freezing.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
In very cold climates they are usually dug and stored in the root cellar (or something similar) in a box of damp sand or sawdust. If stored at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity, they will last for 4 to 6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
To prevent moisture loss from the root, cut off the leaves to within an inch or two of the root. Don’t cut too close to the crown as this may cause them to bleed. If you want to store them, leave the long stringy root tips in place and don’t wash them.
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Seed Saving:
Beets are cross-pollinated by the wind, so must be isolated from other varieties (and from chard). This means having only one variety flowering at one time within a distance 1/4 mile for home use. For pure seed isolate by a minimum of 1/2 to 1 mile. Crosses with chard.
Beet is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering beet plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet, tender with smooth skin and delicious tops.
Culinary Use: Beets have a high sugar content and earthy flavor. Steaming or roasting them preserves their flavor; they should be cooked until they are tender. The beet tops are especially good and can be cut many times while the beet root matures. Beets can be used to prepare soups, salads, pickled, and for side dishes. Beets combined with baby greens, citrus, nuts or cheeses makes a refreshing salad. Using red beets in risotto creates a delicious colorful dish or you can add a beet to poached apple or pears for extra sweetness and dramatic color. Don't forget about the leaves, as they are the most nutritious part. They may not be as good as chard, but they are still useful as a potherb, or a colorful minor addition to salads.
Root: raw or cooked. Well-grown roots are sweet and tender, especially when young, and can be grated and used in salads. Beetroots are traditionally boiled until tender then pickled in vinegar and used in salads. The roots can also be cooked and used as a vegetable, they are sweet and delicious when baked. The root contains up to 8% sugar. The root is tasteless when grown on very wet soils and dry when grown on clay soils. Immature roots can be harvested in the summer and early autumn for immediate use, these are usually much more tender than the older roots. Mature roots can be left in the ground all winter and harvested as required, though they might suffer damage in severe winters. Alternatively, they are harvested in late autumn or early winter and will store for up to 6 months in a cool but not dry frost-free place.
Leaves: raw or cooked like spinach. A reasonable spinach substitute, though harvesting leaves from growing plants can reduce yields of the roots. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth. A nutritional analysis is available.
Medicinal:
Although little used in modern herbalism, beet has a long history of folk use, especially in the treatment of tumors. The root of white-rooted forms contain betaine which promotes the regeneration of liver cells and the metabolism of fat cells. The root of red-rooted forms contains betanin - an anthocyanin similar to those found in red wine - which is partly responsible for red beet's immune-enhancing effect. The root is carminative, haemostatic, stomachic and a tonic for women. The root can be used as part of the diet, or the juice can be extracted and used as a health-promoting drink. At least one liter of the juice from red-rooted forms must be taken each day in order to stimulate the immune system. The juice is prescribed by herbalists as part of a cancer-treatment regime. A decoction prepared from the seed has been used as a remedy for tumors of the intestines. The seed, boiled in water, is said to cure genital tumors. The juice or other parts of the plant is said to help in the treatment of tumors, leukemia and other forms of cancer such as cancer of the breast, esophagus, glands, head, intestines, leg, lip, lung, prostate, rectum, spleen, stomach, and uterus. Some figure that betacyanin and anthocyanin are important in the exchange of substances of cancer cells, others note two main components of the amines, choline and its oxidation product betaine, whose absence produces tumors in mice. The juice has been applied to ulcers. A decoction is used as a purgative by those who suffer from hemorrhoids in South Africa. Leaves and roots used as an emmenagogue. Plant effective in the treatment of feline ascariasis. In the old days, beet juice was recommended as a remedy for anemia and yellow jaundice, and, put into the nostrils to purge the head, clear ringing ears, and alleviate toothache. Beet juice in vinegar was said to rid the scalp of dandruff as scurf, and was recommended to prevent falling hair.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Try sprays or companion plantings of mints (Mentha spp.), thyme, or catnip (Nepeta cataria) to ward off flea beetles.
Companions: Plant in alternate rows with other crops, even those that grow tall. (although beets prefer full sun, they also tolerate partial shade.) Alternate beets in a row with onions or kohlrabi. Beets have attractive red veined leaves that also make a nice addition to ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners believe that beets do poorly when planted near pole beans or field mustard.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Beets may suffer from fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, leafhoppers, aphids and caterpillars.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 10 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: When: Beets can be grown from transplants, started inside 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. They would just be a little earlier which is an advantage if you have warmer late spring weather and want an early spring crop.
How: Cell packs or soil blocks work best as beets don’t like root disturbance. Plant one seed capsule in each cavity.
Transplant Outdoors:
On last frost date: Plant out the transplants no earlier than the last frost date, as they aren’t very hardy. To get an earlier start you could warm the soil with cloches before planting (and cover the seedlings with cloches).
Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Spacing: 3"-5", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Traditionally Beets are direct sown, starting two weeks before the last frost date. The soil should be at least 50˚ F for good germination.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Fall Crop:
6-10 weeks before first frost date: Beets can also be planted in late summer, 6 to 10 weeks before first fall frost date (they work well as a fall crop). This is the crop to store for winter. In mild winter areas your fall planted Beets will continue to grow slowly over the winter and can be harvested as needed.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Support: No
Crop Care:
Beets should grow quickly for the sweetest and most tender roots. They can only do this if they get everything they need, when they need it.
Water Needs: Moderate. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. If germination is good, you will have a little clump of seedlings every 2˝. These clumps thin themselves to some extent, with the largest and most vigorous ones eventually crowding out the others. It is extremely important that the plants are thinned properly, as insufficient thinning is one of the most common reasons that plants fail to grow good roots.
First thinning: Thin the plants soon after they all emerge, when they are about an inch tall. Do this at the same time you are weeding them, ideally in cool cloudy weather. The first thinning should give you a single plant every 2˝. Don’t thin them to the final spacing at this time, as some might not survive.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds and conserves moisture. Wait until the soil is warm before applying it, however.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Second thinning: Thin the plants to the desired final spacing when they are 3 - 4" tall and the roots have swollen to an inch in diameter. The thinnings from this round are big enough to eat in salads or stir-fries.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. Beets won’t grow well if they have to compete with weeds, so make sure they are weeded properly. This is particularly important when they are young and don’t have enough foliage to cover the ground. It is best to hand weed Beets as the shoulders of the roots are easily damaged by weeding tools.
Watering, before harvest: Water, 1", before harvest, 1 time a week. Give them extra water when the roots are sizing up to boost their final size. You want to give your plants a total of 2" a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1 1/2" to 2"). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4"). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody.
When and How:
Leaves, 1-56 days after maturity. Cut and Come Again Option For Greens As long as the leaves are 4" to 5" tall you can cut the tops. Leave the smaller leaves until they reach full size. Beet leaves can be used as a cut and come again crop, so they can be enjoyed as long as the roots are in the ground.
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1½˝ to 2˝). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4˝). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody. To some extent this depends on the variety, growing methods and time of year and, so it’s not always the case.
How: Usually you can simply pull up the roots by the tops (if these are tender they can be used for greens, so don’t waste them). To minimize moisture loss in the roots, twist off the greens. If you are going to store the roots be very careful when harvesting them, as the slightest injury can lead to premature decay.
Storage:
In mild climates the roots are best left in the ground, where they will grow slowly all winter. In colder climates they can be stored in the ground, if covered with a thick mulch to keep the ground from freezing.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
In very cold climates they are usually dug and stored in the root cellar (or something similar) in a box of damp sand or sawdust. If stored at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity, they will last for 4 to 6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
To prevent moisture loss from the root, cut off the leaves to within an inch or two of the root. Don’t cut too close to the crown as this may cause them to bleed. If you want to store them, leave the long stringy root tips in place and don’t wash them.
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Seed Saving:
Beets are cross-pollinated by the wind, so must be isolated from other varieties (and from chard). This means having only one variety flowering at one time within a distance 1/4 mile for home use. For pure seed isolate by a minimum of 1/2 to 1 mile. Crosses with chard.
Beet is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering beet plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet, tender with smooth skin and delicious tops.
Culinary Use: Beets have a high sugar content and earthy flavor. Steaming or roasting them preserves their flavor; they should be cooked until they are tender. The beet tops are especially good and can be cut many times while the beet root matures. Beets can be used to prepare soups, salads, pickled, and for side dishes. Beets combined with baby greens, citrus, nuts or cheeses makes a refreshing salad. Using red beets in risotto creates a delicious colorful dish or you can add a beet to poached apple or pears for extra sweetness and dramatic color. Don't forget about the leaves, as they are the most nutritious part. They may not be as good as chard, but they are still useful as a potherb, or a colorful minor addition to salads.
Root: raw or cooked. Well-grown roots are sweet and tender, especially when young, and can be grated and used in salads. Beetroots are traditionally boiled until tender then pickled in vinegar and used in salads. The roots can also be cooked and used as a vegetable, they are sweet and delicious when baked. The root contains up to 8% sugar. The root is tasteless when grown on very wet soils and dry when grown on clay soils. Immature roots can be harvested in the summer and early autumn for immediate use, these are usually much more tender than the older roots. Mature roots can be left in the ground all winter and harvested as required, though they might suffer damage in severe winters. Alternatively, they are harvested in late autumn or early winter and will store for up to 6 months in a cool but not dry frost-free place.
Leaves: raw or cooked like spinach. A reasonable spinach substitute, though harvesting leaves from growing plants can reduce yields of the roots. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth. A nutritional analysis is available.
Medicinal:
Although little used in modern herbalism, beet has a long history of folk use, especially in the treatment of tumors. The root of white-rooted forms contain betaine which promotes the regeneration of liver cells and the metabolism of fat cells. The root of red-rooted forms contains betanin - an anthocyanin similar to those found in red wine - which is partly responsible for red beet's immune-enhancing effect. The root is carminative, haemostatic, stomachic and a tonic for women. The root can be used as part of the diet, or the juice can be extracted and used as a health-promoting drink. At least one liter of the juice from red-rooted forms must be taken each day in order to stimulate the immune system. The juice is prescribed by herbalists as part of a cancer-treatment regime. A decoction prepared from the seed has been used as a remedy for tumors of the intestines. The seed, boiled in water, is said to cure genital tumors. The juice or other parts of the plant is said to help in the treatment of tumors, leukemia and other forms of cancer such as cancer of the breast, esophagus, glands, head, intestines, leg, lip, lung, prostate, rectum, spleen, stomach, and uterus. Some figure that betacyanin and anthocyanin are important in the exchange of substances of cancer cells, others note two main components of the amines, choline and its oxidation product betaine, whose absence produces tumors in mice. The juice has been applied to ulcers. A decoction is used as a purgative by those who suffer from hemorrhoids in South Africa. Leaves and roots used as an emmenagogue. Plant effective in the treatment of feline ascariasis. In the old days, beet juice was recommended as a remedy for anemia and yellow jaundice, and, put into the nostrils to purge the head, clear ringing ears, and alleviate toothache. Beet juice in vinegar was said to rid the scalp of dandruff as scurf, and was recommended to prevent falling hair.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Try sprays or companion plantings of mints (Mentha spp.), thyme, or catnip (Nepeta cataria) to ward off flea beetles.
Companions: Plant in alternate rows with other crops, even those that grow tall. (although beets prefer full sun, they also tolerate partial shade.) Alternate beets in a row with onions or kohlrabi. Beets have attractive red veined leaves that also make a nice addition to ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners believe that beets do poorly when planted near pole beans or field mustard.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Beets may suffer from fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, leafhoppers, aphids and caterpillars.
Broccoli
How to Grow Broccoli
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil Temp for Germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total Weeks to Grow Transplant: 14 to 17 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 32 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 14-16 weeks before first frost date. Like most Brassicas, Broccoli doesn’t mind transplanting, so it is commonly started indoors. It can be sown in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.
Germinate: 3-5 weeks before last frost date. Like most Brassicas, Broccoli doesn’t mind transplanting, so it is commonly started indoors. It can be sown in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.
Harden Off: 1 week before last frost date. If they are to go outside while it is still cold, the seedlings should be hardened off. They will then tolerate temperatures as low as 25˚F.
Transplant Outdoors:
Transplant Outdoors: 9 weeks before first frost date. By the time it goes outside, the plant should be 3˝ to 4˝ high, with 3 to 5 leaves and a stem diameter of about 1/8˝. Plant them out slightly deeper than they grew in the flats, to the depth of their first true leaves. Broccoli prefers cooler temperatures and does best as a fall crop, growing and heading up best at about 65˚ F. It is also less bothered by pests in cool weather and the heads stay in peak condition for longer. Mature plants can sit in the garden, ready to harvest, for weeks. They are fairly hardy and can survive frost as low as 20˚ F. Autumn Broccoli should be transplanted 9 weeks before the first fall frost date, so it is close to maturity by the time cold weather hits. If you are growing a lot of Broccoli for freezing, you should plant it at the optimal time, which is late summer. This also means you won't have to keep it frozen all summer.
Space saving alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.
1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.
Transplant Outdoors: 0-1 weeks after last frost date: By the time it goes outside, the plant should be 3˝ to 4˝ high, with 3 to 5 leaves and a stem diameter of about 1/8˝. Plant them out slightly deeper than they grew in the flats, to the depth of their first true leaves.
Vernalization: In spring it is important to get transplants outside before they get too big. If their stems are over 1/4˝ diameter, they may be vernalized by cold temperatures. This happens when they are exposed to temperatures below 50˚F for two weeks and it will cause them to bolt as soon as it warms up. Of course you could just keep them inside until all risk of cold weather is past (or protect them with cloches or row covers). This is another reason Broccoli does best as a fall Crop.
Cold, Cool: Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation. The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F.
When min soil temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.
Spacing: 12-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The spacing you use depends on the fertility of the soil and how large you want the heads to grow. The wider the spacing, the larger the individual plants, (and their heads) can get. At 18" spacing, the heads may grow to be 6" in diameter. Closely spaced plants do not produce as many side shoots either.
12-18": Excellent soil or for small heads
18": Good soil or for medium heads
18-24": Poor soil or for large heads.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation.
The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.
When Outdoor Temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F.
When Min Soil Temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 12-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq. ft. The spacing you use depends on the fertility of the soil and how large you want the heads to grow. The wider the spacing, the larger the individual plants, (and their heads) can get. At 18" spacing, the heads may grow to be 6" in diameter. Closely spaced plants do not produce as many side shoots either.
12-18": Excellent soil or for small heads.
18": Good soil or for medium heads.
18-24": Poor soil or for large heads.
Spring Crop: 2 weeks after last frost date. Though Broccoli is usually transplanted, it can also be direct sown.
1. Broccoli germinates readily. Plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.
2. Thin to the required spacing, when they have their first set of true leaves.
Space Saving Alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.
1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.
Fall Crop: 10-12 weeks before first frost date. Broccoli prefers cooler temperatures and does best as a fall crop, growing and heading up best at about 65˚ F. It is also less bothered by pests in cool weather and the heads stay in peak condition for longer. Mature plants can sit in the garden, ready to harvest, for weeks. They are fairly hardy and can survive frost as low as 20˚ F. Autumn Broccoli should be sown 10 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost date, so it is close to maturity by the time cold weather hits. If you are growing a lot of Broccoli for freezing, you should plant it at the optimal time, which is late summer. This also means you won't have to keep it frozen all summer. Though Broccoli is usually transplanted, it can also be direct sown. This works out best for an autumn crop, as the soil is warm in late summer and germination will be rapid.
1. Simply plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.
2. Thin to the required spacing when they have their first set of true leaves. Of course you will probably have problems with pests when direct sowing at this time of year.
Space Saving Alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.
1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.
Support: No
Crop Care:
The plants need looking after carefully. If there is a slow down or interruption in growth they may bolt prematurely.
Water Needs: Moderate. Broccoli transpires quite a lot of water and for optimal growth the soil should be moist at all times. This isn't usually a problem because it grows in fairly cool weather. Watering, regularly. Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 1 time a week For optimal growth the soil must be moist at all times. Fortunately it grows in fairly cool weather, so watering isn’t usually a problem. In dry conditions or hot weather it is critical that the plants receive sufficient moisture. A lack of water may cause the plants to bolt. 1 gallon of water per plant should be enough, but use more if necessary. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most members of the cabbage family, Broccoli is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for good growth. It doesn't like acid soil.
Side Dressing, after Transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. If your soil is less than ideal, give your transplants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp, 2 weeks after planting out. This will encourage rapid vegetative growth.
Weeding, after Transplanting: after transplanting, 1 time a week Competition from weeds can cause the plants to bolt, so keep them well weeded when small. A mulch will help here as well. When they are 12" tall you don't need to continue weeding as regularly.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Mulch, 2", when 4" tall, 1 time. A mulch will help to keep down weeds and keep the soil cool in warm weather. Broccoli loves seaweed mulch. If slugs and snails are a significant problem in your garden, don't mulch as it makes a perfect habitat for them.
Protecting, at early fruit set: Row cover, 1 layer, at early fruit set, 1 time. You can avoid the most serious Cabbage pests by covering the young plants with row cover. This is a lot of work though, so don't do it unless they become a problem.
Side Dressing, before harvest: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, before harvest, 1 time. Two weeks before harvest you might give them another feed of compost tea to encourage the production of side shoots.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Broccoli is edible after the florets have separated and even when some of the flowers have opened, but it's not as good. Flavor improves with cooler temperatures. Use shade fabric to extend summer harvests.
Storage:
For longer term storage Broccoli freezes well.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Broccoli is best eaten as soon as possible, as it is quite perishable. It may keep up to a week or so in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 3-7 days
Seed Saving:
Broccoli usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Brassica oleracea crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination). Save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic diversity.
Seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods first start to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
Broccoli Raab will cross with Chinese cabbage, turnips, some rapeseed (canola) and other plants in the same species. Isolate by 1/8 mile for home use. For pure seed of small plantings isolate by 1/4 to 1/2 mile.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Delicious year-round broccoli.
Culinary Use: Broccoli can be steamed or sautéed and served by itself or with other vegetables. It should be steamed before sauteing or stir-frying. Raw broccoli is very popular when accompanied by a dipping sauce, and is often served with other raw vegetables. Broccoli rosettes can be cut from the stems and then the rosette and the cut stems can be cooked separately and served together. Steamed broccoli with butter, or sautéed broccoli in olive oil with garlic and finished with a squeeze of lemon are two of the more common ways of serving broccoli, and each is a great base from which many variations can be made. The stalks are just as delicious as the flowers, so try chopping them into 1/4" pieces with your flowers.
Young Flowering Stems and Leaves: raw or cooked. The shoots of sprouting broccoli are harvested when about 10 cm long, and before the flowers open, the shoots look somewhat like a small white or purple cauliflower and have a delicious flavor. They are considered to be a gourmet vegetable. When picking the stems, make sure that you leave behind a section of the stem with leaves on it, since the plants will often produce new side shoots from the leaf axils. Calabrese and Romanesco plants produce a central inflorescence rather like a small cauliflower, which are sometimes followed by a number of smaller flowering shoots. They usually come into bearing in the late summer or autumn and are very productive if they are regularly harvested. Sprouting broccoli plants come into production in late winter to early spring and can be very heavy bearing over a period of two months or more so long as all the flowering stems are harvested before coming into flower.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Basil, Bush Beans, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Hyssop, Lettuce, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Potato, Radish, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme and Tomato. Celery, onions and potatoes improve broccoli's flavor when planted near it. Broccoli loves plenty of calcium. Pairing it with plants that need little calcium is a good combination such as nasturtiums and beets as this frees up the calcium in the soil for the broccoli. Put the nasturtiums right under the broccoli plants. Herbs such as rosemary, dill and sage help repel pests with their distinct aromas.
Enemies: Grapes, strawberries, mustard and rue.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil Temp for Germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total Weeks to Grow Transplant: 14 to 17 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 32 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 14-16 weeks before first frost date. Like most Brassicas, Broccoli doesn’t mind transplanting, so it is commonly started indoors. It can be sown in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.
Germinate: 3-5 weeks before last frost date. Like most Brassicas, Broccoli doesn’t mind transplanting, so it is commonly started indoors. It can be sown in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.
Harden Off: 1 week before last frost date. If they are to go outside while it is still cold, the seedlings should be hardened off. They will then tolerate temperatures as low as 25˚F.
Transplant Outdoors:
Transplant Outdoors: 9 weeks before first frost date. By the time it goes outside, the plant should be 3˝ to 4˝ high, with 3 to 5 leaves and a stem diameter of about 1/8˝. Plant them out slightly deeper than they grew in the flats, to the depth of their first true leaves. Broccoli prefers cooler temperatures and does best as a fall crop, growing and heading up best at about 65˚ F. It is also less bothered by pests in cool weather and the heads stay in peak condition for longer. Mature plants can sit in the garden, ready to harvest, for weeks. They are fairly hardy and can survive frost as low as 20˚ F. Autumn Broccoli should be transplanted 9 weeks before the first fall frost date, so it is close to maturity by the time cold weather hits. If you are growing a lot of Broccoli for freezing, you should plant it at the optimal time, which is late summer. This also means you won't have to keep it frozen all summer.
Space saving alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.
1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.
Transplant Outdoors: 0-1 weeks after last frost date: By the time it goes outside, the plant should be 3˝ to 4˝ high, with 3 to 5 leaves and a stem diameter of about 1/8˝. Plant them out slightly deeper than they grew in the flats, to the depth of their first true leaves.
Vernalization: In spring it is important to get transplants outside before they get too big. If their stems are over 1/4˝ diameter, they may be vernalized by cold temperatures. This happens when they are exposed to temperatures below 50˚F for two weeks and it will cause them to bolt as soon as it warms up. Of course you could just keep them inside until all risk of cold weather is past (or protect them with cloches or row covers). This is another reason Broccoli does best as a fall Crop.
Cold, Cool: Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation. The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F.
When min soil temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.
Spacing: 12-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The spacing you use depends on the fertility of the soil and how large you want the heads to grow. The wider the spacing, the larger the individual plants, (and their heads) can get. At 18" spacing, the heads may grow to be 6" in diameter. Closely spaced plants do not produce as many side shoots either.
12-18": Excellent soil or for small heads
18": Good soil or for medium heads
18-24": Poor soil or for large heads.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation.
The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.
When Outdoor Temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F.
When Min Soil Temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 12-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq. ft. The spacing you use depends on the fertility of the soil and how large you want the heads to grow. The wider the spacing, the larger the individual plants, (and their heads) can get. At 18" spacing, the heads may grow to be 6" in diameter. Closely spaced plants do not produce as many side shoots either.
12-18": Excellent soil or for small heads.
18": Good soil or for medium heads.
18-24": Poor soil or for large heads.
Spring Crop: 2 weeks after last frost date. Though Broccoli is usually transplanted, it can also be direct sown.
1. Broccoli germinates readily. Plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.
2. Thin to the required spacing, when they have their first set of true leaves.
Space Saving Alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.
1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.
Fall Crop: 10-12 weeks before first frost date. Broccoli prefers cooler temperatures and does best as a fall crop, growing and heading up best at about 65˚ F. It is also less bothered by pests in cool weather and the heads stay in peak condition for longer. Mature plants can sit in the garden, ready to harvest, for weeks. They are fairly hardy and can survive frost as low as 20˚ F. Autumn Broccoli should be sown 10 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost date, so it is close to maturity by the time cold weather hits. If you are growing a lot of Broccoli for freezing, you should plant it at the optimal time, which is late summer. This also means you won't have to keep it frozen all summer. Though Broccoli is usually transplanted, it can also be direct sown. This works out best for an autumn crop, as the soil is warm in late summer and germination will be rapid.
1. Simply plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.
2. Thin to the required spacing when they have their first set of true leaves. Of course you will probably have problems with pests when direct sowing at this time of year.
Space Saving Alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.
1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.
Support: No
Crop Care:
The plants need looking after carefully. If there is a slow down or interruption in growth they may bolt prematurely.
Water Needs: Moderate. Broccoli transpires quite a lot of water and for optimal growth the soil should be moist at all times. This isn't usually a problem because it grows in fairly cool weather. Watering, regularly. Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 1 time a week For optimal growth the soil must be moist at all times. Fortunately it grows in fairly cool weather, so watering isn’t usually a problem. In dry conditions or hot weather it is critical that the plants receive sufficient moisture. A lack of water may cause the plants to bolt. 1 gallon of water per plant should be enough, but use more if necessary. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most members of the cabbage family, Broccoli is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for good growth. It doesn't like acid soil.
Side Dressing, after Transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. If your soil is less than ideal, give your transplants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp, 2 weeks after planting out. This will encourage rapid vegetative growth.
Weeding, after Transplanting: after transplanting, 1 time a week Competition from weeds can cause the plants to bolt, so keep them well weeded when small. A mulch will help here as well. When they are 12" tall you don't need to continue weeding as regularly.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Mulch, 2", when 4" tall, 1 time. A mulch will help to keep down weeds and keep the soil cool in warm weather. Broccoli loves seaweed mulch. If slugs and snails are a significant problem in your garden, don't mulch as it makes a perfect habitat for them.
Protecting, at early fruit set: Row cover, 1 layer, at early fruit set, 1 time. You can avoid the most serious Cabbage pests by covering the young plants with row cover. This is a lot of work though, so don't do it unless they become a problem.
Side Dressing, before harvest: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, before harvest, 1 time. Two weeks before harvest you might give them another feed of compost tea to encourage the production of side shoots.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Broccoli is edible after the florets have separated and even when some of the flowers have opened, but it's not as good. Flavor improves with cooler temperatures. Use shade fabric to extend summer harvests.
Storage:
For longer term storage Broccoli freezes well.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Broccoli is best eaten as soon as possible, as it is quite perishable. It may keep up to a week or so in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 3-7 days
Seed Saving:
Broccoli usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Brassica oleracea crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination). Save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic diversity.
Seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods first start to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
Broccoli Raab will cross with Chinese cabbage, turnips, some rapeseed (canola) and other plants in the same species. Isolate by 1/8 mile for home use. For pure seed of small plantings isolate by 1/4 to 1/2 mile.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Delicious year-round broccoli.
Culinary Use: Broccoli can be steamed or sautéed and served by itself or with other vegetables. It should be steamed before sauteing or stir-frying. Raw broccoli is very popular when accompanied by a dipping sauce, and is often served with other raw vegetables. Broccoli rosettes can be cut from the stems and then the rosette and the cut stems can be cooked separately and served together. Steamed broccoli with butter, or sautéed broccoli in olive oil with garlic and finished with a squeeze of lemon are two of the more common ways of serving broccoli, and each is a great base from which many variations can be made. The stalks are just as delicious as the flowers, so try chopping them into 1/4" pieces with your flowers.
Young Flowering Stems and Leaves: raw or cooked. The shoots of sprouting broccoli are harvested when about 10 cm long, and before the flowers open, the shoots look somewhat like a small white or purple cauliflower and have a delicious flavor. They are considered to be a gourmet vegetable. When picking the stems, make sure that you leave behind a section of the stem with leaves on it, since the plants will often produce new side shoots from the leaf axils. Calabrese and Romanesco plants produce a central inflorescence rather like a small cauliflower, which are sometimes followed by a number of smaller flowering shoots. They usually come into bearing in the late summer or autumn and are very productive if they are regularly harvested. Sprouting broccoli plants come into production in late winter to early spring and can be very heavy bearing over a period of two months or more so long as all the flowering stems are harvested before coming into flower.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Basil, Bush Beans, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Hyssop, Lettuce, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Potato, Radish, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme and Tomato. Celery, onions and potatoes improve broccoli's flavor when planted near it. Broccoli loves plenty of calcium. Pairing it with plants that need little calcium is a good combination such as nasturtiums and beets as this frees up the calcium in the soil for the broccoli. Put the nasturtiums right under the broccoli plants. Herbs such as rosemary, dill and sage help repel pests with their distinct aromas.
Enemies: Grapes, strawberries, mustard and rue.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Brussels Sprouts
How to Grow Brussels Sprouts
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" - 1/2" deep
Soil temp for germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Germinate:
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Brussels Sprouts are a very slow maturing crop (some varieties may take eight months), so are in the ground for a long time. This means that even a fall crop must go into the ground in early to mid summer (depending upon the climate and variety). Brussels Sprouts are almost always planted as a fall crop (in Britain they are a traditional Christmas “treat”). The sprouts then mature in the cool weather they prefer and so have much better flavor.
Transplant Outdoors:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should be transplanted outside when they are 4˝ to 5˝ high and have 5 to 6 true leaves. Don’t wait too long to plant them out or they may get deficient. Plant them a little deeper than they were in the flat, up to the first true leaves.
Cold, Cool: Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.
Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The plants need a lot of space, so allow a minimum of 18" to 24" between the plants in the beds. Perhaps sow them in a row down the center of the bed. Another crop should be interplanted with them, to take advantage of the large vacant space between the plants.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" - 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The plants need a lot of space, so allow a minimum of 18" to 24" between the plants in the beds. Perhaps sow them in a row down the center of the bed. Another crop should be interplanted with them, to take advantage of the large vacant space between the plants.
Fall Crop:
12-16 weeks before last frost date: Brussels Sprouts are a very slow maturing crop (some varieties may take eight months), so are in the ground for a long time. This means that even a fall crop must go into the ground in early to mid summer (depending upon the climate and variety). Brussels Sprouts are almost always planted as a fall crop (in Britain they are a traditional Christmas “treat”). The sprouts then mature in the cool weather they prefer and so have much better flavor.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Brussels Sprouts don't do well in hot weather. They require cool soil, cool weather and short days for best growth, and are not recommended as a spring crop because the sprouts would have to mature in hot weather, which would seriously impair their flavor and quality.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most of the Brassicas, Brussels Sprouts are heavy feeders. They like lots of potassium and phosphorus but do not need too much nitrogen, as this can adversely affect the flavor of the sprouts. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid- or late-season varieties.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 quart, regularly, 3 times a week For best flavor and greatest productivity Brussels Sprout absolutely must have enough water, especially if the weather is warm. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2", when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is very helpful for Brussels Sprouts, as otherwise there is a lot of bare soil between the plants. It keeps the soil cooler, suppresses weeds and conserves soil moisture.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Brussels sprouts are axillary buds and mature gradually from the bottom of the stem upwards, in the order they were formed. They do this because the apical dominance hormone produced by the growing top is only effective for a certain distance. The sprouts generally start to form when nighttime temperatures drop to 60 degrees F. As the sprouts mature, the lower leaves may start to fade.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-28 days after maturity:
When: Brussels sprouts are axillary buds and mature gradually from the bottom of the stem upwards, in the order they were formed. The sprouts generally start to form when night time temperatures drop to 60˚F. As the sprouts mature, the lower leaves may start to fade. The hardy sprouts stay in good condition even with frost (down to 20˚ F). Their flavor actually improves with cold weather.
How: Start picking (actually cutting) when the sprouts are about an inch across, beginning at the bottom and working your way up to the affect further production. top. Don’t leave any mature sprouts on the plant, as this may affect further production.
Storage:
For longer term storage they are usually frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Brussels sprouts will store for a few weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator (don’t wash them). For longer term storage they are usually frozen.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days
Seed Saving:
Brussels Sprouts are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination). Save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic diversity.
Seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods first start to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm
place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 8 yrs.
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sturdy delicious flavor.
Culinary Use:
The quintessential autumn vegetable, Brussels Sprouts are like miniature heads of cabbage with a much milder flavor. They are best when uniform in size, firm, tight, small compact heads. They can be prepared by roasting with stock, pan seared in drippings, steamed, blanched or sauteed. They go well with a little butter, bread crumbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.
Leaf buds: raw or cooked. Well-grown plants produce an abundance of leaf-buds (looking rather like miniature cabbage heads) along the main stem at the leaf axils. These can be shredded and eaten raw in salads, though many people find them indigestible when eaten this way. They have a very nice cabbage flavor when cooked and are a very popular winter vegetable. By careful selection of varieties, it is possible to harvest the buds from early September until late spring.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Try strong smelling herbs, such as hyssop, peppermint, sage, and wormwood, to discourage aphids and other insect pests. Some scientists believe a masking effect is at work in these types of plantings, in which the mustard oil odor of the Brussels sprouts plant is hidden by other strong smells.
Companions: Plant flowering herb such as chamomile and carrot family plants like dill nearby to help attract beneficial insects.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe that tomatoes planted nearby have a detrimental effect on Brussels sprouts. But research with cabbage plants indicates that tomatoes may offer some protection from whiteflies and cabbage flea beetles.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" - 1/2" deep
Soil temp for germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Germinate:
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Brussels Sprouts are a very slow maturing crop (some varieties may take eight months), so are in the ground for a long time. This means that even a fall crop must go into the ground in early to mid summer (depending upon the climate and variety). Brussels Sprouts are almost always planted as a fall crop (in Britain they are a traditional Christmas “treat”). The sprouts then mature in the cool weather they prefer and so have much better flavor.
Transplant Outdoors:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should be transplanted outside when they are 4˝ to 5˝ high and have 5 to 6 true leaves. Don’t wait too long to plant them out or they may get deficient. Plant them a little deeper than they were in the flat, up to the first true leaves.
Cold, Cool: Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.
Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The plants need a lot of space, so allow a minimum of 18" to 24" between the plants in the beds. Perhaps sow them in a row down the center of the bed. Another crop should be interplanted with them, to take advantage of the large vacant space between the plants.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" - 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The plants need a lot of space, so allow a minimum of 18" to 24" between the plants in the beds. Perhaps sow them in a row down the center of the bed. Another crop should be interplanted with them, to take advantage of the large vacant space between the plants.
Fall Crop:
12-16 weeks before last frost date: Brussels Sprouts are a very slow maturing crop (some varieties may take eight months), so are in the ground for a long time. This means that even a fall crop must go into the ground in early to mid summer (depending upon the climate and variety). Brussels Sprouts are almost always planted as a fall crop (in Britain they are a traditional Christmas “treat”). The sprouts then mature in the cool weather they prefer and so have much better flavor.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Brussels Sprouts don't do well in hot weather. They require cool soil, cool weather and short days for best growth, and are not recommended as a spring crop because the sprouts would have to mature in hot weather, which would seriously impair their flavor and quality.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most of the Brassicas, Brussels Sprouts are heavy feeders. They like lots of potassium and phosphorus but do not need too much nitrogen, as this can adversely affect the flavor of the sprouts. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid- or late-season varieties.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 quart, regularly, 3 times a week For best flavor and greatest productivity Brussels Sprout absolutely must have enough water, especially if the weather is warm. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2", when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is very helpful for Brussels Sprouts, as otherwise there is a lot of bare soil between the plants. It keeps the soil cooler, suppresses weeds and conserves soil moisture.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Brussels sprouts are axillary buds and mature gradually from the bottom of the stem upwards, in the order they were formed. They do this because the apical dominance hormone produced by the growing top is only effective for a certain distance. The sprouts generally start to form when nighttime temperatures drop to 60 degrees F. As the sprouts mature, the lower leaves may start to fade.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-28 days after maturity:
When: Brussels sprouts are axillary buds and mature gradually from the bottom of the stem upwards, in the order they were formed. The sprouts generally start to form when night time temperatures drop to 60˚F. As the sprouts mature, the lower leaves may start to fade. The hardy sprouts stay in good condition even with frost (down to 20˚ F). Their flavor actually improves with cold weather.
How: Start picking (actually cutting) when the sprouts are about an inch across, beginning at the bottom and working your way up to the affect further production. top. Don’t leave any mature sprouts on the plant, as this may affect further production.
Storage:
For longer term storage they are usually frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Brussels sprouts will store for a few weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator (don’t wash them). For longer term storage they are usually frozen.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days
Seed Saving:
Brussels Sprouts are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination). Save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic diversity.
Seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods first start to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm
place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 8 yrs.
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sturdy delicious flavor.
Culinary Use:
The quintessential autumn vegetable, Brussels Sprouts are like miniature heads of cabbage with a much milder flavor. They are best when uniform in size, firm, tight, small compact heads. They can be prepared by roasting with stock, pan seared in drippings, steamed, blanched or sauteed. They go well with a little butter, bread crumbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.
Leaf buds: raw or cooked. Well-grown plants produce an abundance of leaf-buds (looking rather like miniature cabbage heads) along the main stem at the leaf axils. These can be shredded and eaten raw in salads, though many people find them indigestible when eaten this way. They have a very nice cabbage flavor when cooked and are a very popular winter vegetable. By careful selection of varieties, it is possible to harvest the buds from early September until late spring.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Try strong smelling herbs, such as hyssop, peppermint, sage, and wormwood, to discourage aphids and other insect pests. Some scientists believe a masking effect is at work in these types of plantings, in which the mustard oil odor of the Brussels sprouts plant is hidden by other strong smells.
Companions: Plant flowering herb such as chamomile and carrot family plants like dill nearby to help attract beneficial insects.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe that tomatoes planted nearby have a detrimental effect on Brussels sprouts. But research with cabbage plants indicates that tomatoes may offer some protection from whiteflies and cabbage flea beetles.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Cabbage
How to Grow Cabbage
Germination:
Start Indoors:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Spring Cabbage should be planted early to take advantage of the cool days of spring. It is very hardy and can survive quite hard frosts. They don’t mind transplanting, so are commonly started in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays. The first Cabbage plants can be started 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost and planted out 4 to 6 weeks later. They should still be small enough that they won’t be vernalized by a late cold snap, which would cause them to bolt.
1. Plant the seeds ½˝ deep and keep them warm (60 to 80˚F) for fastest germination.
2. Once they are growing, reduce the temperature to between 50 and 70˚ F, as they grow better in cooler conditions. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.
Harden Off: 4 weeks before last frost date. Allow plants to acclimate to their new outdoor conditions. Leave plants outside, for a longer time period each day. This will harden them off before transplanting.
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Start a fall crop 12 to 16 weeks before the first fall frost. It is very hardy and can survive quite hard frosts. Cabbages are usually started indoors and transplanted out. They don’t mind transplanting, so are commonly started in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.
1. Plant the seeds ½˝ deep and keep them warm (60 to 80˚F) for fastest germination.
2. Once they are growing, reduce the temperature to between 50 and 70˚ F, as they grow better in cooler conditions.
3. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.
Replant: 9-14 weeks before first frost date. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4˝ high. Be sure to plant them outside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in containers for too long they will get stressed and deficient. In cold weather the plants should be hardened off before they are planted outside. Transplanting is pretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first set of true leaves. Press down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight depression. Water immediately to help the plant recover.
8-10 weeks before first frost date: Cabbage is a good winter crop, planted in late summer or early autumn. This will mature in late autumn and then stand right through the winter in good condition. Such plants can get very big. The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4˝ high. Be sure to plant them outside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in containers for too long they will get stressed and deficient. In cold weather the plants should be hardened off before they are planted outside. Transplanting is pretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first set of true leaves. Press down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight depression. Water immediately to help the plant recover.
Cold, Cool: Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.
Spacing: 12"-18", 1 plants per sq ft. This varies according to variety, fertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can control the final size of the plants by the spacing, a wider spacing means larger (but fewer plants).
12" spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and small heads.
15" spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.
18" spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.
If you want to plant them in rows, the traditional spacing is 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, with 24 inches between the rows.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Plant the seeds 1/2" deep and 12" apart.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. This varies according to variety, fertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can control the final size of the plants by the spacing, a wider spacing means larger (but fewer plants).
12" spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and small heads.
15" spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.
18" spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.
If you want to plant them in rows, the traditional spacing is 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, with 24 inches between the rows.
Spring Crop: 0-2 weeks before last frost date. In warmer weather Cabbage can be sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct sown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the many hungry pests that love Brassicas. This problem of predation is one reason it is common for them to be started indoors, where they are more easily protected.
Fall Crop: 12-16 weeks before first frost date. In warm weather Cabbage can be sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct sown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the many hungry pests that love Brassicas. This problem of predation is one reason it is common for them to be started indoors, where they are more easily protected.
Crop Care:
Cabbage doesn't do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily. This means that it does best when planted early (to mature before mid-summer), or late (to mature in the fall).
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5-1.0 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 1 time a week Cabbages need a regular water supply to grow well, so keep the soil evenly moist. Heads may split if a heavy rain follows a long dry spell without irrigation. They are quite shallow rooted, so make sure there is plenty of moisture in the soil at all times. This is particularly important in hot weather. Consistent watering is also important. Lack of water can result in unpleasantly strong tasting plants and thicker, tougher leaves. At the other extreme, if plants are suddenly soaked after being very dry the resulting burst in growth can cause the head to split. It is best to use drip irrigation so the leaves don’t get wet, as several diseases can be spread in this way. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time. A liquid feed of compost tea is helpful in early spring, while the soil is cool and nitrogen is not readily available.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., at early fruit set, 1 time.
Give the plants another feed of compost tea as the plants start to head up to help them grow bigger.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest when heads are tightly formed into 4 to 6" cabbages.
When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-60 days after maturity:
When: Harvest the first cabbage heads as soon as they are big and solid enough to be worthwhile. You can harvest the un-hearted plants before this, but they will be less productive. If a mature head begins to crack (this may be caused by excess nitrogen, aging or irregular water supply) harvest it and use promptly. This doesn’t affect edibility, but it does affect storage life. Heads store well in cool (32 -40 degrees Fahrenheit), moist locations for 5-6 months.
Delaying maturation: If too many Cabbages are maturing at once, you can slow their growth by cutting through some of their roots with a spade. You can also twist the head a quarter turn, to break some of the roots.
How: Harvest by cutting through the base of the stem with a knife. When you harvest early cabbage, you might want to leave a few leaves on the root (this is the fastest way to get a clean cabbage anyway). These will keep the root alive and may enable it to produce a new crop of mini cabbages. If you harvest all but one of these, the remaining one might even grow into another small head. Remove the roots after harvest and compost or burn them, to help prevent the buildup of disease.
Storage:
In mild winter areas, it is easier to leave them growing in the garden until you need them. Protect with mulch if necessary.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 40-55°F
Storage Length: days
Cabbage will store for a few weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator (don’t wash the heads).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days
Cabbage can be stored for months as sauerkraut, which is a simple fermentation process in brine. This is a great way to use up an abundance of organic cabbage from the garden which contains health and flavor benefits.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Heads store well in cool (32 -40 degrees Fahreinheit), moist locations for 5-6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Cabbage is a biennial and takes two years to produce seed. Don't save seed from plants that flower in their first year, as you don't want to raise an annual strain that bolts quickly. Cabbage is usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other--Kale, Collards, Kohlrabi, Broccoli, etc. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination).
Seed Viability in Years: 3-8 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet and mild.
Culinary Use:
Cabbage can be braised or steamed, which brings out the earthly sweet flavors. Raw or pickled cabbage in either cole slaw or sauerkraut creates a whole new dimension to the vegetable. Either smooth or crinkled cabbage leaves can be stuffed. Cabbage is a good source of nutrients and is very rich in flavor when it comes from your garden.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Cabbages are generally used as a cooked vegetable, though the shredded leaves can also be eaten in salads. Dutch cabbages are generally sweeter and milder in flavor making them more suitable for raw eating. Those leaves in the heart of the plants are more tender than outside leaves and so are also more suitable for eating raw. These heart leaves, though, are less nutritious because they have been excluded from the light. Many people find that the raw leaves give them indigestion. The leaves can be fermented and made into sauerkraut, used as a health food and said to be good for the digestive system. By careful selection of cultivars, it is possible to harvest cabbages all year round.
Seeds: sprouted and added to salads. Very good eating.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. Celery improves growth and health. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the number of predatory ground beetles. Plant Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Cabbage does not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rue, grapes, lettuce and pole beans.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Start Indoors:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Spring Cabbage should be planted early to take advantage of the cool days of spring. It is very hardy and can survive quite hard frosts. They don’t mind transplanting, so are commonly started in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays. The first Cabbage plants can be started 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost and planted out 4 to 6 weeks later. They should still be small enough that they won’t be vernalized by a late cold snap, which would cause them to bolt.
1. Plant the seeds ½˝ deep and keep them warm (60 to 80˚F) for fastest germination.
2. Once they are growing, reduce the temperature to between 50 and 70˚ F, as they grow better in cooler conditions. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.
Harden Off: 4 weeks before last frost date. Allow plants to acclimate to their new outdoor conditions. Leave plants outside, for a longer time period each day. This will harden them off before transplanting.
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Start a fall crop 12 to 16 weeks before the first fall frost. It is very hardy and can survive quite hard frosts. Cabbages are usually started indoors and transplanted out. They don’t mind transplanting, so are commonly started in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.
1. Plant the seeds ½˝ deep and keep them warm (60 to 80˚F) for fastest germination.
2. Once they are growing, reduce the temperature to between 50 and 70˚ F, as they grow better in cooler conditions.
3. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.
Replant: 9-14 weeks before first frost date. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4˝ high. Be sure to plant them outside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in containers for too long they will get stressed and deficient. In cold weather the plants should be hardened off before they are planted outside. Transplanting is pretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first set of true leaves. Press down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight depression. Water immediately to help the plant recover.
8-10 weeks before first frost date: Cabbage is a good winter crop, planted in late summer or early autumn. This will mature in late autumn and then stand right through the winter in good condition. Such plants can get very big. The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4˝ high. Be sure to plant them outside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in containers for too long they will get stressed and deficient. In cold weather the plants should be hardened off before they are planted outside. Transplanting is pretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first set of true leaves. Press down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight depression. Water immediately to help the plant recover.
Cold, Cool: Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.
Spacing: 12"-18", 1 plants per sq ft. This varies according to variety, fertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can control the final size of the plants by the spacing, a wider spacing means larger (but fewer plants).
12" spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and small heads.
15" spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.
18" spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.
If you want to plant them in rows, the traditional spacing is 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, with 24 inches between the rows.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Plant the seeds 1/2" deep and 12" apart.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. This varies according to variety, fertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can control the final size of the plants by the spacing, a wider spacing means larger (but fewer plants).
12" spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and small heads.
15" spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.
18" spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.
If you want to plant them in rows, the traditional spacing is 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, with 24 inches between the rows.
Spring Crop: 0-2 weeks before last frost date. In warmer weather Cabbage can be sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct sown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the many hungry pests that love Brassicas. This problem of predation is one reason it is common for them to be started indoors, where they are more easily protected.
Fall Crop: 12-16 weeks before first frost date. In warm weather Cabbage can be sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct sown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the many hungry pests that love Brassicas. This problem of predation is one reason it is common for them to be started indoors, where they are more easily protected.
Crop Care:
Cabbage doesn't do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily. This means that it does best when planted early (to mature before mid-summer), or late (to mature in the fall).
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5-1.0 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 1 time a week Cabbages need a regular water supply to grow well, so keep the soil evenly moist. Heads may split if a heavy rain follows a long dry spell without irrigation. They are quite shallow rooted, so make sure there is plenty of moisture in the soil at all times. This is particularly important in hot weather. Consistent watering is also important. Lack of water can result in unpleasantly strong tasting plants and thicker, tougher leaves. At the other extreme, if plants are suddenly soaked after being very dry the resulting burst in growth can cause the head to split. It is best to use drip irrigation so the leaves don’t get wet, as several diseases can be spread in this way. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time. A liquid feed of compost tea is helpful in early spring, while the soil is cool and nitrogen is not readily available.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., at early fruit set, 1 time.
Give the plants another feed of compost tea as the plants start to head up to help them grow bigger.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest when heads are tightly formed into 4 to 6" cabbages.
When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-60 days after maturity:
When: Harvest the first cabbage heads as soon as they are big and solid enough to be worthwhile. You can harvest the un-hearted plants before this, but they will be less productive. If a mature head begins to crack (this may be caused by excess nitrogen, aging or irregular water supply) harvest it and use promptly. This doesn’t affect edibility, but it does affect storage life. Heads store well in cool (32 -40 degrees Fahrenheit), moist locations for 5-6 months.
Delaying maturation: If too many Cabbages are maturing at once, you can slow their growth by cutting through some of their roots with a spade. You can also twist the head a quarter turn, to break some of the roots.
How: Harvest by cutting through the base of the stem with a knife. When you harvest early cabbage, you might want to leave a few leaves on the root (this is the fastest way to get a clean cabbage anyway). These will keep the root alive and may enable it to produce a new crop of mini cabbages. If you harvest all but one of these, the remaining one might even grow into another small head. Remove the roots after harvest and compost or burn them, to help prevent the buildup of disease.
Storage:
In mild winter areas, it is easier to leave them growing in the garden until you need them. Protect with mulch if necessary.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 40-55°F
Storage Length: days
Cabbage will store for a few weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator (don’t wash the heads).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days
Cabbage can be stored for months as sauerkraut, which is a simple fermentation process in brine. This is a great way to use up an abundance of organic cabbage from the garden which contains health and flavor benefits.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Heads store well in cool (32 -40 degrees Fahreinheit), moist locations for 5-6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Cabbage is a biennial and takes two years to produce seed. Don't save seed from plants that flower in their first year, as you don't want to raise an annual strain that bolts quickly. Cabbage is usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other--Kale, Collards, Kohlrabi, Broccoli, etc. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination).
Seed Viability in Years: 3-8 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet and mild.
Culinary Use:
Cabbage can be braised or steamed, which brings out the earthly sweet flavors. Raw or pickled cabbage in either cole slaw or sauerkraut creates a whole new dimension to the vegetable. Either smooth or crinkled cabbage leaves can be stuffed. Cabbage is a good source of nutrients and is very rich in flavor when it comes from your garden.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Cabbages are generally used as a cooked vegetable, though the shredded leaves can also be eaten in salads. Dutch cabbages are generally sweeter and milder in flavor making them more suitable for raw eating. Those leaves in the heart of the plants are more tender than outside leaves and so are also more suitable for eating raw. These heart leaves, though, are less nutritious because they have been excluded from the light. Many people find that the raw leaves give them indigestion. The leaves can be fermented and made into sauerkraut, used as a health food and said to be good for the digestive system. By careful selection of cultivars, it is possible to harvest cabbages all year round.
Seeds: sprouted and added to salads. Very good eating.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. Celery improves growth and health. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the number of predatory ground beetles. Plant Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Cabbage does not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rue, grapes, lettuce and pole beans.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Carrots
How to Grow Carrots
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade in hot climates. They also like a fairly warm soil.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F: Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil, up to 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Spacing: 3", 16 plants per sq ft. The right spacing depends on the fertility of the soil, the type of Carrot and the size of the root you want. A wider spacing results in larger roots.
4" (poor soil)
3" (good soil)
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. You can plant your first carrots 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost, or as soon as the soil is ready to be worked in spring, it depends on soil temperature. Carrots can be grown right through the summer, though they aren't as good when growing in hot weather.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 3" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (3" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Fall Crop: 8-10 weeks before first frost date. Fall Carrots should be sown from mid to late summer (a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost) to give them time to mature before it gets too cold. In mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They must be started early though, so they are almost mature by the time the first frost hits. If they are too small when cold weather arrives, they will simply sit in the ground until spring and then bolt. Make one large planting for winter use, as you will be eating them for months.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 2" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (1" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Prompt weeding and thinning are the keys to growing good carrots. Take care of these tasks and you should succeed, neglect them and you will likely fail. Happily both of these tasks can be done at the same time.
Water Needs: Moderate. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots. Water, 0.5 inch(es), after sowing, 2 times a week It is crucial that the seedbed be watered regularly until all of the seeds have germinated. A general rule is to allow 50% of the surface of the bed to dry out and then water again. Don’t water too heavily, or the light seeds may be washed around, resulting in an uneven stand, with bare patches and very dense patches. The 1" of rain is the total for the week, but is applied in small quantities every day. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. More than most crops, carrots are susceptible to weeds. If these are not removed promptly they will quickly smother the sparsely leafed seedlings. Your first priority must be to weed (and thin) the newly emerged plants. Weeds will have to be removed by hand from broadcast beds. Row plantings can be hoed if widely spaced, though some hand weeding is usually needed also.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch conserves moisture and keeps down weeds and covers the shoulders of the root, preventing them turning green and inedible from exposure to light. In winter a deeper (6") mulch can keep the ground from freezing and help to prevent the roots being heaved by frost.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 1" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. After all the seedlings have germinated and are growing well, you will have to thin them. This is the most critical step of all; if the plants are packed too closely together they simply won’t produce swollen roots. The earlier you thin (and weed) the easier it will be. The initial thinning is done when the seedlings are about 2" to 3˝ tall and you should leave the plants about an inch apart. If you have a large area to thin, this can be done with a wire rake (carefully, by simply raking out excess plants).
Thinning, when 4" tall: 3" apart, when 4" tall, 8 weeks. A second thinning (and weeding) should be done 2 to 4 weeks after the first. This time you thin to the desired spacing by hand. It is important to remove all of the uprooted plants from the area after thinning as the smell of damaged foliage can attract the Carrot Rust Fly. Ideally you thin on cool cloudy days, or in late evening, and water afterward to reduce the smell of Carrot.
Thinning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. During the growing season thin Carrots to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Carrots. This is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Thin Carrots before they reach full size, you should thin and harvest alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 0.5", during fruit production, 3 times a week Giving the plants extra water when the roots start to size up can boost yields considerably (though there is a danger it will cause the roots to split). Increase your watering from 2 to 3 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Consider the days to maturity on the package then part the top soil and see if the tops are the desired thickness. You can also pull one up to see the size. After they get over 2 inches in diameter they may start to get woody (again a lot depends on the variety). Mature roots are often a deeper orange color, which indicates that they contain more carotene.
Storage:
The best place to store Carrots is in the ground. They keep better and it is a lot less work. In mild climates they will continue to grow through the winter and slowly get bigger. You just harvest them as needed. In colder climates the tops will die back when cold weather hits. When this happens cover them with 6˝ to 12˝ of mulch (this needs to be deep to prevent the ground from freezing). The roots actually get sweeter in cold weather, as some of their starch is converted into sugar. If you aren’t going to eat the roots quickly, you should remove all but 1˝ of the tops, as these drain moisture from the root. If you are going to store the roots for any length of time, you should leave them in the sun for several hours to kill the root hairs. Any damaged roots should be used immediately, as they won’t store well. Don’t wash any Carrots you intend to store.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store carrots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
Seed Saving:
Carrot is a biennial, so stores food in its first year and flowers and produces seed the following year. Select some of your very best roots for seed production. Never gather seed from early flowering plants. Uproot and get rid of them before they have a chance to pollinate the rest. In harsh climates you will have to protect the roots over the winter as described previously. Replant them in the spring and wait for them to flower.
The flowers are cross-pollinated by insects and will cross with any other Carrots or Wild Carrots (Queen Annes Lace) within a half mile. The best seed is produced on the primary umbel, which is the first to ripen. The second umbel is pretty good too, so take it from these two. When the seed heads are ripe, cut them and leave in a paper grocery bag to dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet carrot that gets even sweeter with storage.
Culinary Use:
Carrots are so sweet and rich in flavor they can be eaten raw or steamed, used in soups and sauces. Eat or cook fresh carrots out of the garden with other seasonal greens or by themselves with a touch of fresh butter--it's the reason you garden. These short carrots are delicious when roasted or used in soup because of their sweetness.
Root: raw or cooked. The roots of well-grown plants are crisp, sweet and juicy, they are very nice raw and are also cooked as a vegetable or added to soups, stews etc. The grated root is a tasty addition to the salad bowl. The juice can be extracted from the root and used as a health-promoting drink. The root is very rich in carotene, which is transformed by the body into vitamin A when it is eaten. The root is sometimes ground into a powder and used in making cakes, bread etc. The roasted root is a coffee substitute. Carotin, extracted from the roots, is used as an orange-yellow food dye.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A very strong flavor, they can be added in small quantities to mixed salads. The leaves contain an oil that is rich in vitamin E, they are sometimes used as a flavoring in soups.
Seed: An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Cultivated carrot roots are a rich source of beta-carotene, which is converted to vitamin A by the liver. When used as a regular item in the diet the roots improve eyesight and skin health, and also have anti-cancer effects. A wonderful cleansing medicine, it supports the liver and stimulates urine flow and the removal of waste by the kidneys. The root is diuretic and ophthalmic. The juice of organic carrots is a delicious drink and a valuable detoxifier. The raw root, grated or mashed, is a safe treatment for threadworms, especially in children. The seed is carminative, galactogogue, lithontripic and stimulant. They are useful in the treatment of kidney diseases, dropsy and to settle the digestive system. They stimulate menstruation and have been used in folk medicine as a treatment for hangovers.
Known hazards: Carrots sometimes cause allergic reactions in some people. Skin contact with the sap is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Their pals are chives, leaf lettuce, leeks, marigolds, onions, parsley, radish, salsify and tomatoes. Sow leeks and carrots in the same row for protection against carrot fly. Then harvest the carrots and leave the leeks to mature for later. For onions and carrots plant them in separate rows next to each other to repel carrots flies. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor.
Enemies: Plant dill, fennel, kohlrabi and parsnips away from carrots.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Carrot rust fly maggot and wireworm are potential insect problems. Aster yellows (inner foliage yellows and stunts with stunted taproot) is a potential disease problem (spread by leafhoppers).
Other Uses:
The roots are fermented in order to produce alcohol. An orange dye is obtained from the root. An essential oil from the seed has a distinctive fragrance and is used in perfumery.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade in hot climates. They also like a fairly warm soil.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F: Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil, up to 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Spacing: 3", 16 plants per sq ft. The right spacing depends on the fertility of the soil, the type of Carrot and the size of the root you want. A wider spacing results in larger roots.
4" (poor soil)
3" (good soil)
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. You can plant your first carrots 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost, or as soon as the soil is ready to be worked in spring, it depends on soil temperature. Carrots can be grown right through the summer, though they aren't as good when growing in hot weather.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 3" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (3" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Fall Crop: 8-10 weeks before first frost date. Fall Carrots should be sown from mid to late summer (a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost) to give them time to mature before it gets too cold. In mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They must be started early though, so they are almost mature by the time the first frost hits. If they are too small when cold weather arrives, they will simply sit in the ground until spring and then bolt. Make one large planting for winter use, as you will be eating them for months.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 2" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (1" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Prompt weeding and thinning are the keys to growing good carrots. Take care of these tasks and you should succeed, neglect them and you will likely fail. Happily both of these tasks can be done at the same time.
Water Needs: Moderate. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots. Water, 0.5 inch(es), after sowing, 2 times a week It is crucial that the seedbed be watered regularly until all of the seeds have germinated. A general rule is to allow 50% of the surface of the bed to dry out and then water again. Don’t water too heavily, or the light seeds may be washed around, resulting in an uneven stand, with bare patches and very dense patches. The 1" of rain is the total for the week, but is applied in small quantities every day. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. More than most crops, carrots are susceptible to weeds. If these are not removed promptly they will quickly smother the sparsely leafed seedlings. Your first priority must be to weed (and thin) the newly emerged plants. Weeds will have to be removed by hand from broadcast beds. Row plantings can be hoed if widely spaced, though some hand weeding is usually needed also.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch conserves moisture and keeps down weeds and covers the shoulders of the root, preventing them turning green and inedible from exposure to light. In winter a deeper (6") mulch can keep the ground from freezing and help to prevent the roots being heaved by frost.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 1" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. After all the seedlings have germinated and are growing well, you will have to thin them. This is the most critical step of all; if the plants are packed too closely together they simply won’t produce swollen roots. The earlier you thin (and weed) the easier it will be. The initial thinning is done when the seedlings are about 2" to 3˝ tall and you should leave the plants about an inch apart. If you have a large area to thin, this can be done with a wire rake (carefully, by simply raking out excess plants).
Thinning, when 4" tall: 3" apart, when 4" tall, 8 weeks. A second thinning (and weeding) should be done 2 to 4 weeks after the first. This time you thin to the desired spacing by hand. It is important to remove all of the uprooted plants from the area after thinning as the smell of damaged foliage can attract the Carrot Rust Fly. Ideally you thin on cool cloudy days, or in late evening, and water afterward to reduce the smell of Carrot.
Thinning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. During the growing season thin Carrots to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Carrots. This is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Thin Carrots before they reach full size, you should thin and harvest alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 0.5", during fruit production, 3 times a week Giving the plants extra water when the roots start to size up can boost yields considerably (though there is a danger it will cause the roots to split). Increase your watering from 2 to 3 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Consider the days to maturity on the package then part the top soil and see if the tops are the desired thickness. You can also pull one up to see the size. After they get over 2 inches in diameter they may start to get woody (again a lot depends on the variety). Mature roots are often a deeper orange color, which indicates that they contain more carotene.
Storage:
The best place to store Carrots is in the ground. They keep better and it is a lot less work. In mild climates they will continue to grow through the winter and slowly get bigger. You just harvest them as needed. In colder climates the tops will die back when cold weather hits. When this happens cover them with 6˝ to 12˝ of mulch (this needs to be deep to prevent the ground from freezing). The roots actually get sweeter in cold weather, as some of their starch is converted into sugar. If you aren’t going to eat the roots quickly, you should remove all but 1˝ of the tops, as these drain moisture from the root. If you are going to store the roots for any length of time, you should leave them in the sun for several hours to kill the root hairs. Any damaged roots should be used immediately, as they won’t store well. Don’t wash any Carrots you intend to store.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store carrots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
Seed Saving:
Carrot is a biennial, so stores food in its first year and flowers and produces seed the following year. Select some of your very best roots for seed production. Never gather seed from early flowering plants. Uproot and get rid of them before they have a chance to pollinate the rest. In harsh climates you will have to protect the roots over the winter as described previously. Replant them in the spring and wait for them to flower.
The flowers are cross-pollinated by insects and will cross with any other Carrots or Wild Carrots (Queen Annes Lace) within a half mile. The best seed is produced on the primary umbel, which is the first to ripen. The second umbel is pretty good too, so take it from these two. When the seed heads are ripe, cut them and leave in a paper grocery bag to dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet carrot that gets even sweeter with storage.
Culinary Use:
Carrots are so sweet and rich in flavor they can be eaten raw or steamed, used in soups and sauces. Eat or cook fresh carrots out of the garden with other seasonal greens or by themselves with a touch of fresh butter--it's the reason you garden. These short carrots are delicious when roasted or used in soup because of their sweetness.
Root: raw or cooked. The roots of well-grown plants are crisp, sweet and juicy, they are very nice raw and are also cooked as a vegetable or added to soups, stews etc. The grated root is a tasty addition to the salad bowl. The juice can be extracted from the root and used as a health-promoting drink. The root is very rich in carotene, which is transformed by the body into vitamin A when it is eaten. The root is sometimes ground into a powder and used in making cakes, bread etc. The roasted root is a coffee substitute. Carotin, extracted from the roots, is used as an orange-yellow food dye.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A very strong flavor, they can be added in small quantities to mixed salads. The leaves contain an oil that is rich in vitamin E, they are sometimes used as a flavoring in soups.
Seed: An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal:
Cultivated carrot roots are a rich source of beta-carotene, which is converted to vitamin A by the liver. When used as a regular item in the diet the roots improve eyesight and skin health, and also have anti-cancer effects. A wonderful cleansing medicine, it supports the liver and stimulates urine flow and the removal of waste by the kidneys. The root is diuretic and ophthalmic. The juice of organic carrots is a delicious drink and a valuable detoxifier. The raw root, grated or mashed, is a safe treatment for threadworms, especially in children. The seed is carminative, galactogogue, lithontripic and stimulant. They are useful in the treatment of kidney diseases, dropsy and to settle the digestive system. They stimulate menstruation and have been used in folk medicine as a treatment for hangovers.
Known hazards: Carrots sometimes cause allergic reactions in some people. Skin contact with the sap is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people.
Pure Plants And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Their pals are chives, leaf lettuce, leeks, marigolds, onions, parsley, radish, salsify and tomatoes. Sow leeks and carrots in the same row for protection against carrot fly. Then harvest the carrots and leave the leeks to mature for later. For onions and carrots plant them in separate rows next to each other to repel carrots flies. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor.
Enemies: Plant dill, fennel, kohlrabi and parsnips away from carrots.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Carrot rust fly maggot and wireworm are potential insect problems. Aster yellows (inner foliage yellows and stunts with stunted taproot) is a potential disease problem (spread by leafhoppers).
Other Uses:
The roots are fermented in order to produce alcohol. An orange dye is obtained from the root. An essential oil from the seed has a distinctive fragrance and is used in perfumery.
Cauliflower
How to Grow Cauliflower
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed sowing depth: 0.25" to 0.5" Sow the seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep, with 2 to 3 seeds in each station. Thin for best performance once when the plants are up and growing.
Soil temp for germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 55°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 to 12 (Spring/Summer), 11 to 12 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6 weeks before last frost date.
Harden off: on last frost date. Allow your Cauliflower to adapt to it's new outdoor temperatures. Transplanting will shock your plant, but transplanting WHILE moving it from indoors to out gives you a much higher chance of killing the seedling.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: Transplants should have no more than 4 or 5 true leaves, as larger plants don’t transplant well and may be vernalized by a cold spell. It needs to be planted fairly early because it needs a long period of cool weather to mature. If the weather is very cold when planting, you should protect the plants with cloches or cold frames until it warms up. It is vital that growth is uninterrupted by transplanting, as this can be enough to make it bolt. You might need to put on cutworm collars or Cabbage Worm disks. You should also provide shade if it gets hot and protect it from late frosts.
Cool: Cauliflower prefers nearly neutral soils rich in organic matter. Water moderately and evenly. Cauliflower can be sensitive to boron deficiencies. Lime the soil to a pH of 7.0 or higher in areas with clubroot problems.To ensure plump heads, time indoor sowing so that plants are no more than 5 weeks old at transplant time. Sow outdoors when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees F. While cauliflower requires growing conditions similar to broccoli and cabbage, it can be more difficult to grow. Any interruption in growth due to under-watering or under-fertilization can cause the plant to prematurely set a small, unusable head. Cauliflower needs quite a lot of space, which rules it out of many small gardens. It grows in the coolest parts of the year, so also needs full sun.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60°F.
Spacing: 18-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. pacing has an effect upon the final size of the head. 15" in very good soil, 18" in average soil, and 24" in poor soil. We recommend the square foot gardening method which requires 24" per plant.
Start Outdoors:
When Cool: Cauliflower prefers nearly neutral soils rich in organic matter. Water moderately and evenly. Cauliflower can be sensitive to boron deficiencies. Lime the soil to a pH of 7.0 or higher in areas with clubroot problems. To ensure plump heads, time indoor sowing so that plants are no more than 5 weeks old at transplant time. Sow outdoors when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees F. While cauliflower requires growing conditions similar to broccoli and cabbage, it can be more difficult to grow. Any interruption in growth due to under-watering or under-fertilization can cause the plant to prematurely set a small, unusable head. Cauliflower needs quite a lot of space, which rules it out of many small gardens. It grows in the coolest parts of the year, so also needs full sun.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60°F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep, with 2 to 3 seeds in each station. Thin for best performance once when the plants are up and growing.
Spacing: 18-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Spacing has an effect upon the final size of the head. 15" in very good soil, 18" in average soil, and 24" in poor soil. We recommend the square foot gardening method which requires 24" per plant.
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. Cauliflower can also be direct sown and in some cases these plants have been known to mature faster than transplants. However, this is only practical in climates that provide that ideal long cool growing season. Plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.Thin to the required spacing when the plants have their first set of true leaves.
Crop Care:
Crop Care: Cauliflower must have everything it needs for fast, uninterrupted growth without any checks, otherwise it may bolt prematurely.
Water Needs: High. Cauliflower absolutely must have constant moisture for good growth. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5 gallon per plant, regularly, 1 time a week. Cauliflower needs constant moisture, so it’s important to keep the soil moist at all times (lack of water can cause bolting). The most critical watering time is when the head is developing; don’t let it get water stressed at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water. Watering, regularly. Water, 1 gallon per plant, regularly, 1 time a week Cauliflower needs constant moisture, so it’s important to keep the soil moist at all times (lack of water can cause bolting). The most critical watering time is when the head is developing; don’t let it get water stressed at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most Brassicas cauliflower is a fairly hungry crop and must have plenty of available nutrients for good growth. Once the plants are established and growing well, feed them with a foliar feed of compost tea. Feed them again just before they start to head up. Cauliflower is one of the crops that is most susceptible to boron deficiency (which can be caused by acid soil).
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time. After the plants are established and growing well, feed them with a foliar fertilizer of compost tea.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., at flowering, 1 time. Feed the plants with a foliar fertilizer of compost tea just before they start to head up. Cauliflower is one of the crops that is most susceptible to boron deficiency (which can be caused by acid soil).
Growing Cauliflower from seed: Try to aim for a seed spacing of at least 3.12 inches and sow at a depth of around 0.58 inches. Soil temperature should be kept higher than 24°C / 75°F to ensure good germination. By our calculations, you should look at sowing Purple of Sicily about 14 days before your last frost date.
Transplanting Cauliflower: Ensure that temperatures are mild and all chance of frost has passed before planting out, as Purple of Sicily is a hardy plant.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Look for full heads with smooth curds.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-14 days after maturity
When: The optimal time to harvest Cauliflower is when the head has reached full size (6" to 8˝), but while it’s still tight and firm. They are good later than this though and may be used until the flower clusters turn yellowish (rather than white) and start to separate (they are said to get ricey). In warm weather the plants don’t stay in optimal condition for very long, in which case it’s better to start harvesting a little too early, rather than too late.
How: Cut off the entire head with a knife. If you aren’t going to use it immediately, leave some leaves on to protect it in storage.
Storage:
Storage: You can freeze cauliflower if you want to keep it for longer.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1 days
Cauliflower will stay in good condition for several weeks if stored in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
The process is much the same as for broccoli. Cauliflower will cross with cabbage, kale and any other Brassicas. This could have interesting results, but it's probably not what you want. To keep the seed pure, it must be the only variety of any Brassica oleracea species growing within a mile. Otherwise it is fairly easy to save the seed. To maintain some genetic variability, you should save seed from at least 6 plants. Take seed from the best slow-bolting plants.Be aware that the curds of cauliflower are not flower buds, like those of broccoli, but mostly only fleshy receptacles that won't develop into flowers. In fact, flower development in
cauliflower can be very erratic.
Seed Viability in Years: 5-10 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Tender, sweet flesh with a delicate and delicious flavor.
Culinary Use:
Cauliflower can be prepared cooked or raw. Cooking includes stir-fry, steamed, sauteed, roasted, or baked. When prepared raw it is mostly used as an accent to salads or for dipping. When cooking, the heads can remain whole or can be divided into smaller sections. Cauliflower is best when served immediately after cooking.
Immature flowering head: raw or cooked. A mild cabbage-like flavor, they make an excellent cooked vegetable and are also very acceptable in salads. By careful selection of cultivars, it is possible to produce flowering heads all year round.
Leaves: cooked. A mild cabbage flavor, they make a good cooked vegetable. Do not over-harvest them, however, since this would adversely affect the production of the flowering head.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Aromatic plants, including pennyroyal, peppermint, sage, southernwood, and thyme, are also said to have a beneficial effect. Some companion gardeners believe that these plants, as well as tomatoes, may also repel pests. However, the mustard oil in cabbage family crops is so pungent that not even powerfully scented herbs can disguise it entirely.
Companions: In rich soil, interplant cauliflower within the row with other plants of the cabbage family, such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts. In average soil, plant cauliflower with light feeders like sage and thyme.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe that cauliflower inhibits the growth of grapes.
Problems:
Can be difficult to grow well in large part because it has little tolerance for heat, drought and cold. Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Start Indoors:
Seed sowing depth: 0.25" to 0.5" Sow the seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep, with 2 to 3 seeds in each station. Thin for best performance once when the plants are up and growing.
Soil temp for germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 55°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 to 12 (Spring/Summer), 11 to 12 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6 weeks before last frost date.
Harden off: on last frost date. Allow your Cauliflower to adapt to it's new outdoor temperatures. Transplanting will shock your plant, but transplanting WHILE moving it from indoors to out gives you a much higher chance of killing the seedling.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: Transplants should have no more than 4 or 5 true leaves, as larger plants don’t transplant well and may be vernalized by a cold spell. It needs to be planted fairly early because it needs a long period of cool weather to mature. If the weather is very cold when planting, you should protect the plants with cloches or cold frames until it warms up. It is vital that growth is uninterrupted by transplanting, as this can be enough to make it bolt. You might need to put on cutworm collars or Cabbage Worm disks. You should also provide shade if it gets hot and protect it from late frosts.
Cool: Cauliflower prefers nearly neutral soils rich in organic matter. Water moderately and evenly. Cauliflower can be sensitive to boron deficiencies. Lime the soil to a pH of 7.0 or higher in areas with clubroot problems.To ensure plump heads, time indoor sowing so that plants are no more than 5 weeks old at transplant time. Sow outdoors when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees F. While cauliflower requires growing conditions similar to broccoli and cabbage, it can be more difficult to grow. Any interruption in growth due to under-watering or under-fertilization can cause the plant to prematurely set a small, unusable head. Cauliflower needs quite a lot of space, which rules it out of many small gardens. It grows in the coolest parts of the year, so also needs full sun.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60°F.
Spacing: 18-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. pacing has an effect upon the final size of the head. 15" in very good soil, 18" in average soil, and 24" in poor soil. We recommend the square foot gardening method which requires 24" per plant.
Start Outdoors:
When Cool: Cauliflower prefers nearly neutral soils rich in organic matter. Water moderately and evenly. Cauliflower can be sensitive to boron deficiencies. Lime the soil to a pH of 7.0 or higher in areas with clubroot problems. To ensure plump heads, time indoor sowing so that plants are no more than 5 weeks old at transplant time. Sow outdoors when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees F. While cauliflower requires growing conditions similar to broccoli and cabbage, it can be more difficult to grow. Any interruption in growth due to under-watering or under-fertilization can cause the plant to prematurely set a small, unusable head. Cauliflower needs quite a lot of space, which rules it out of many small gardens. It grows in the coolest parts of the year, so also needs full sun.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60°F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seeds 1/4" to 1/2" deep, with 2 to 3 seeds in each station. Thin for best performance once when the plants are up and growing.
Spacing: 18-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Spacing has an effect upon the final size of the head. 15" in very good soil, 18" in average soil, and 24" in poor soil. We recommend the square foot gardening method which requires 24" per plant.
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. Cauliflower can also be direct sown and in some cases these plants have been known to mature faster than transplants. However, this is only practical in climates that provide that ideal long cool growing season. Plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.Thin to the required spacing when the plants have their first set of true leaves.
Crop Care:
Crop Care: Cauliflower must have everything it needs for fast, uninterrupted growth without any checks, otherwise it may bolt prematurely.
Water Needs: High. Cauliflower absolutely must have constant moisture for good growth. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5 gallon per plant, regularly, 1 time a week. Cauliflower needs constant moisture, so it’s important to keep the soil moist at all times (lack of water can cause bolting). The most critical watering time is when the head is developing; don’t let it get water stressed at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water. Watering, regularly. Water, 1 gallon per plant, regularly, 1 time a week Cauliflower needs constant moisture, so it’s important to keep the soil moist at all times (lack of water can cause bolting). The most critical watering time is when the head is developing; don’t let it get water stressed at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most Brassicas cauliflower is a fairly hungry crop and must have plenty of available nutrients for good growth. Once the plants are established and growing well, feed them with a foliar feed of compost tea. Feed them again just before they start to head up. Cauliflower is one of the crops that is most susceptible to boron deficiency (which can be caused by acid soil).
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time. After the plants are established and growing well, feed them with a foliar fertilizer of compost tea.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., at flowering, 1 time. Feed the plants with a foliar fertilizer of compost tea just before they start to head up. Cauliflower is one of the crops that is most susceptible to boron deficiency (which can be caused by acid soil).
Growing Cauliflower from seed: Try to aim for a seed spacing of at least 3.12 inches and sow at a depth of around 0.58 inches. Soil temperature should be kept higher than 24°C / 75°F to ensure good germination. By our calculations, you should look at sowing Purple of Sicily about 14 days before your last frost date.
Transplanting Cauliflower: Ensure that temperatures are mild and all chance of frost has passed before planting out, as Purple of Sicily is a hardy plant.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Look for full heads with smooth curds.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-14 days after maturity
When: The optimal time to harvest Cauliflower is when the head has reached full size (6" to 8˝), but while it’s still tight and firm. They are good later than this though and may be used until the flower clusters turn yellowish (rather than white) and start to separate (they are said to get ricey). In warm weather the plants don’t stay in optimal condition for very long, in which case it’s better to start harvesting a little too early, rather than too late.
How: Cut off the entire head with a knife. If you aren’t going to use it immediately, leave some leaves on to protect it in storage.
Storage:
Storage: You can freeze cauliflower if you want to keep it for longer.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1 days
Cauliflower will stay in good condition for several weeks if stored in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
The process is much the same as for broccoli. Cauliflower will cross with cabbage, kale and any other Brassicas. This could have interesting results, but it's probably not what you want. To keep the seed pure, it must be the only variety of any Brassica oleracea species growing within a mile. Otherwise it is fairly easy to save the seed. To maintain some genetic variability, you should save seed from at least 6 plants. Take seed from the best slow-bolting plants.Be aware that the curds of cauliflower are not flower buds, like those of broccoli, but mostly only fleshy receptacles that won't develop into flowers. In fact, flower development in
cauliflower can be very erratic.
Seed Viability in Years: 5-10 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Tender, sweet flesh with a delicate and delicious flavor.
Culinary Use:
Cauliflower can be prepared cooked or raw. Cooking includes stir-fry, steamed, sauteed, roasted, or baked. When prepared raw it is mostly used as an accent to salads or for dipping. When cooking, the heads can remain whole or can be divided into smaller sections. Cauliflower is best when served immediately after cooking.
Immature flowering head: raw or cooked. A mild cabbage-like flavor, they make an excellent cooked vegetable and are also very acceptable in salads. By careful selection of cultivars, it is possible to produce flowering heads all year round.
Leaves: cooked. A mild cabbage flavor, they make a good cooked vegetable. Do not over-harvest them, however, since this would adversely affect the production of the flowering head.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Aromatic plants, including pennyroyal, peppermint, sage, southernwood, and thyme, are also said to have a beneficial effect. Some companion gardeners believe that these plants, as well as tomatoes, may also repel pests. However, the mustard oil in cabbage family crops is so pungent that not even powerfully scented herbs can disguise it entirely.
Companions: In rich soil, interplant cauliflower within the row with other plants of the cabbage family, such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts. In average soil, plant cauliflower with light feeders like sage and thyme.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe that cauliflower inhibits the growth of grapes.
Problems:
Can be difficult to grow well in large part because it has little tolerance for heat, drought and cold. Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Celery
How to Grow Celery
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125" to 0.25". It is sometimes said that the seed must be scattered on the surface and left uncovered, as it needs light to germinate. I haven't found this to be the case though and usually cover it very lightly, so it keeps more evenly moist.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 17 (Spring/Summer), 11 to 17 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
14-18 weeks before first frost date: Celery seed can be temperamental. It sometimes germinates fairly easily (if slowly), but at other times it is very reluctant. Light may be a factor, but it may also require a daily fluctuation in temperature (to 60° or lower at night). Temperatures above 80°F may inhibit germination. Soaking the seed in hot (120° F) water (or dilute bleach solution) for a half hour (or overnight in manure tea) may also help. Celery is usually started indoors, because it is so slow growing initially. It doesn't mind transplanting when young, so is commonly started in flats.
8-10 weeks before last frost date: Celery seed can be temperamental. It sometimes germinates fairly easily (if slowly), but at other times it is very reluctant. Light may be a factor, but it may also require a daily fluctuation in temperature (to 60° or lower at night). Temperatures above 80°F may inhibit germination. Soaking the seed in hot (120° F) water (or dilute bleach solution) for a half hour (or overnight in manure tea) may also help. Celery is usually started indoors, because it is so slow growing initially. It doesn't mind transplanting when young, so is commonly started in flats.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out.
Transplant Outdoors:
8-10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings prefer a fairly cool 60°F temperature for growth. Pick out the seedlings when they have their first true leaves, as they seem to benefit from transplanting at this stage. As always, take care to keep them moist. They should take 8 to 12 weeks to reach 5" in height, which is the ideal transplant size. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out. When transplanting make sure you keep the root ball of each plant as intact as possible. It is important not to expose the seedling to temperatures below 50° F, as it could vernalize them. They would then react to warmer weather by bolting prematurely. If cold weather returns you will have to protect them with cloches.
0-2 weeks after last frost date: The seedlings prefer a fairly cool 60°F temperature for growth. Pick out the seedlings when they have their first true leaves, as they seem to benefit from transplanting at this stage. As always, take care to keep them moist. They should take 8 to 12 weeks to reach 5" in height, which is the ideal transplant size. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out. When transplanting make sure you keep the root ball of each plant as intact as possible. It is important not to expose the seedling to temperatures below 50° F, as it could vernalize them. They would then react to warmer weather by bolting prematurely. If cold weather returns you will have to protect them with cloches.
Cool: Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes so long to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored. Celery requires rich, loamy soil; heavy, consistent water; and patience. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil to help hold moisture. Avoid overhead watering which can collect between the stalks and promote disease and pest problems.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚F.
Spacing: 8-12", 1 plants per sq ft. The plants are normally arranged in offset rows across the bed. The spacing varies from 8-12", depending upon the fertility of the soil. Plants have been spaced as close as 6" to get a greater quantity of smaller plants.
Start Outdoors:
When Cool: Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes so long to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored. Celery requires rich, loamy soil; heavy, consistent water; and patience. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil to help hold moisture. Avoid overhead watering which can collect between the stalks and promote disease and pest problems.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚F.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". It is sometimes said that the seed must be scattered on the surface and left uncovered, as it needs light to germinate. I haven't found this to be the case though and usually cover it very lightly, so it keeps more evenly moist.
Spacing: 8-12", 1 plants per sq ft. The plants are normally arranged in offset rows across the bed. The spacing varies from 8" to 12", depending upon the fertility of the soil. Plants have been spaced as close as 6" to get a greater quantity of smaller plants.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Celery can be direct sown, but this is so slow it is only practical in areas with very long, cool growing seasons, such as parts of coastal California. There it is planted in spring to mature in late summer or fall. Of course you still run into the usual problem with direct sowing; the small plants take up bed space, that might be used more profitably for other crops.
Direct sow 2 weeks before last frost: The seed should be sown as early in spring as possible. Use cloches to warm the soil and protect the young seedlings during early growth. In cold soil germination may take up to a month. Usually it is sown quite thickly and harvest thinned several times (the thinnings can be used in the kitchen).
Fall Crop:
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Celery generally does better as a fall crop, planted in mid to late summer. It then matures in the cool weather of fall. Start your fall plants 3 to 4 months before first fall frost.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes a long time to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. It is possible to sow it in succession, but this is even more complicated. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degree F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored.
Water Needs: High. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Celery is a hungry plant that needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp weekly.
Weeding, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 4 times a week. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good Celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water Celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Protecting, after transplanting: Mulch, 2 inches, after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch to conserve moisture, keep down weeds and keep the soil cooler.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, every 3 weeks
Celery needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp regularly.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for uniformly green stalks.
When and How:
Whole Fruit: 1-28 days after maturity.
When: You can harvest individual stalks of Celery as soon as they are big enough to be worthwhile. This does adversely affect the final size of the plants, but also extends the harvest time.
How: Harvest whole plants when the stems are 18˝ to 20˝ tall, by cutting them down at ground level. For best flavor and longest storage, water the plants the day before harvest.
Storage:
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Celery can be dried but must be blanched first. Boil stalks for 1 minute and then place in cold or even ice water. Slice into 1/4" squares and dry at 130 to 140˚ F. In roughly 5 or 6 hours the celery should be crispy. Let it cool down for 15 minutes. Place in airtight containers and store in a dark cool location.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Celery is a biennial and doesn't produce flowers until its second spring (it sometimes produces flowers prematurely in its first year, but you don't want to save seed from those plants). The biggest problem with saving the seed is just getting the plants to survive the winter. In mild areas they will usually do this in the ground, perhaps under a mulch to protect them from frost. In very cold areas, they will have to be dug up and stored in a root cellar until spring (See Storage).
Celery flowers in the spring of its second year. The plants are cross-pollinated by insects, which makes it hard to save more than one variety at a time (unless you isolate the plants by 1000 feet or more). Save the seed from at least 6 plants to ensure genetic variability. When most of the seed is ripe on the plant, cut the entire head and dry it in a paper bag. Be aware that some fungal diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary:
Taste: Bold, sweet and crunchy.
Culinary Use: Celery is a mandatory ingredient in most kitchens and a staple in restaurant kitchens. It can be used raw in salads, or cooked in soups and stews for its bouquet of flavor. It is sometimes stuffed to serve as an appetizer.
Leaf stems: raw or cooked. A fairly common salad ingredient, celery stems are also used to make soups, stews etc. The winter varieties can be bitter if they are not blanched by excluding light from the stems for at least a few weeks prior to harvesting. Many people find the raw stalks are somewhat indigestible.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are often used as a flavoring in soups etc. They can also be eaten raw but have a very strong flavor and are probably best as a minor ingredient in a mixed salad.
Seed: used as a flavoring for sauces, soups, pickles etc. An essential oil from the seed is also used as a flavoring.
Root: cooked. There is not much of it but it can be cut up and added to soups.
Medicinal:
Although not as medicinally active as wild celery, the cultivated forms of celery also have the same medicinal properties and, when used as an item of the diet, will have a similar effect upon the body. These medicinal uses are as follows:- Wild celery is an aromatic bitter tonic herb that reduces blood pressure, relieves indigestion, stimulates the uterus and is anti-inflammatory. The ripe seeds, herb and root are aperient, carminative, diuretic, emmenagogue, galactogogue, nervine, stimulant and tonic. Wild celery is said to be useful in cases of hysteria, promoting restfulness and sleep and diffusing through the system a mild sustaining influence. The herb should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Seeds purchased for cultivation purposes are often dressed with a fungicide, they should not be used for medicinal purposes. The root is harvested in the autumn and can be used fresh or dried. The whole plant is harvested when fruiting and is usually liquidized to extract the juice. The seeds are harvested as they ripen and are dried for later use. An essential oil obtained from the plant has a calming effect on the central nervous system. Some of its constituents have antispasmodic, sedative and anticonvulsant actions. It has been shown to be of value in treating high blood pressure. A homeopathic remedy is made from the herb. It is used in treating rheumatism and kidney complaints.
Known hazards: If the plant is infected with the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, skin contact with the sap can cause dermatitis in sensitive people.
Pure Plant And Seeds Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: According to companion gardeners, celery thrives with leeks, tomatoes, cauliflower, cabbage, and bush beans.
Companions: Interplant with leeks in trenches, and fill gradually with soil to blanch both vegetables.
Both are potassium lovers; feed with fish emulsion to encourage better growth.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
Aphids, celery worms, and slugs. Root rot may develop in overly wet soils. Early blight and late blight can cause significant problem in some areas.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.125" to 0.25". It is sometimes said that the seed must be scattered on the surface and left uncovered, as it needs light to germinate. I haven't found this to be the case though and usually cover it very lightly, so it keeps more evenly moist.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 17 (Spring/Summer), 11 to 17 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
14-18 weeks before first frost date: Celery seed can be temperamental. It sometimes germinates fairly easily (if slowly), but at other times it is very reluctant. Light may be a factor, but it may also require a daily fluctuation in temperature (to 60° or lower at night). Temperatures above 80°F may inhibit germination. Soaking the seed in hot (120° F) water (or dilute bleach solution) for a half hour (or overnight in manure tea) may also help. Celery is usually started indoors, because it is so slow growing initially. It doesn't mind transplanting when young, so is commonly started in flats.
8-10 weeks before last frost date: Celery seed can be temperamental. It sometimes germinates fairly easily (if slowly), but at other times it is very reluctant. Light may be a factor, but it may also require a daily fluctuation in temperature (to 60° or lower at night). Temperatures above 80°F may inhibit germination. Soaking the seed in hot (120° F) water (or dilute bleach solution) for a half hour (or overnight in manure tea) may also help. Celery is usually started indoors, because it is so slow growing initially. It doesn't mind transplanting when young, so is commonly started in flats.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out.
Transplant Outdoors:
8-10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings prefer a fairly cool 60°F temperature for growth. Pick out the seedlings when they have their first true leaves, as they seem to benefit from transplanting at this stage. As always, take care to keep them moist. They should take 8 to 12 weeks to reach 5" in height, which is the ideal transplant size. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out. When transplanting make sure you keep the root ball of each plant as intact as possible. It is important not to expose the seedling to temperatures below 50° F, as it could vernalize them. They would then react to warmer weather by bolting prematurely. If cold weather returns you will have to protect them with cloches.
0-2 weeks after last frost date: The seedlings prefer a fairly cool 60°F temperature for growth. Pick out the seedlings when they have their first true leaves, as they seem to benefit from transplanting at this stage. As always, take care to keep them moist. They should take 8 to 12 weeks to reach 5" in height, which is the ideal transplant size. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out. When transplanting make sure you keep the root ball of each plant as intact as possible. It is important not to expose the seedling to temperatures below 50° F, as it could vernalize them. They would then react to warmer weather by bolting prematurely. If cold weather returns you will have to protect them with cloches.
Cool: Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes so long to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored. Celery requires rich, loamy soil; heavy, consistent water; and patience. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil to help hold moisture. Avoid overhead watering which can collect between the stalks and promote disease and pest problems.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚F.
Spacing: 8-12", 1 plants per sq ft. The plants are normally arranged in offset rows across the bed. The spacing varies from 8-12", depending upon the fertility of the soil. Plants have been spaced as close as 6" to get a greater quantity of smaller plants.
Start Outdoors:
When Cool: Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes so long to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored. Celery requires rich, loamy soil; heavy, consistent water; and patience. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil to help hold moisture. Avoid overhead watering which can collect between the stalks and promote disease and pest problems.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚F.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". It is sometimes said that the seed must be scattered on the surface and left uncovered, as it needs light to germinate. I haven't found this to be the case though and usually cover it very lightly, so it keeps more evenly moist.
Spacing: 8-12", 1 plants per sq ft. The plants are normally arranged in offset rows across the bed. The spacing varies from 8" to 12", depending upon the fertility of the soil. Plants have been spaced as close as 6" to get a greater quantity of smaller plants.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Celery can be direct sown, but this is so slow it is only practical in areas with very long, cool growing seasons, such as parts of coastal California. There it is planted in spring to mature in late summer or fall. Of course you still run into the usual problem with direct sowing; the small plants take up bed space, that might be used more profitably for other crops.
Direct sow 2 weeks before last frost: The seed should be sown as early in spring as possible. Use cloches to warm the soil and protect the young seedlings during early growth. In cold soil germination may take up to a month. Usually it is sown quite thickly and harvest thinned several times (the thinnings can be used in the kitchen).
Fall Crop:
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Celery generally does better as a fall crop, planted in mid to late summer. It then matures in the cool weather of fall. Start your fall plants 3 to 4 months before first fall frost.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes a long time to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. It is possible to sow it in succession, but this is even more complicated. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degree F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored.
Water Needs: High. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Celery is a hungry plant that needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp weekly.
Weeding, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 4 times a week. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good Celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water Celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Protecting, after transplanting: Mulch, 2 inches, after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch to conserve moisture, keep down weeds and keep the soil cooler.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, every 3 weeks
Celery needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp regularly.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for uniformly green stalks.
When and How:
Whole Fruit: 1-28 days after maturity.
When: You can harvest individual stalks of Celery as soon as they are big enough to be worthwhile. This does adversely affect the final size of the plants, but also extends the harvest time.
How: Harvest whole plants when the stems are 18˝ to 20˝ tall, by cutting them down at ground level. For best flavor and longest storage, water the plants the day before harvest.
Storage:
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Celery can be dried but must be blanched first. Boil stalks for 1 minute and then place in cold or even ice water. Slice into 1/4" squares and dry at 130 to 140˚ F. In roughly 5 or 6 hours the celery should be crispy. Let it cool down for 15 minutes. Place in airtight containers and store in a dark cool location.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Saving:
Celery is a biennial and doesn't produce flowers until its second spring (it sometimes produces flowers prematurely in its first year, but you don't want to save seed from those plants). The biggest problem with saving the seed is just getting the plants to survive the winter. In mild areas they will usually do this in the ground, perhaps under a mulch to protect them from frost. In very cold areas, they will have to be dug up and stored in a root cellar until spring (See Storage).
Celery flowers in the spring of its second year. The plants are cross-pollinated by insects, which makes it hard to save more than one variety at a time (unless you isolate the plants by 1000 feet or more). Save the seed from at least 6 plants to ensure genetic variability. When most of the seed is ripe on the plant, cut the entire head and dry it in a paper bag. Be aware that some fungal diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary:
Taste: Bold, sweet and crunchy.
Culinary Use: Celery is a mandatory ingredient in most kitchens and a staple in restaurant kitchens. It can be used raw in salads, or cooked in soups and stews for its bouquet of flavor. It is sometimes stuffed to serve as an appetizer.
Leaf stems: raw or cooked. A fairly common salad ingredient, celery stems are also used to make soups, stews etc. The winter varieties can be bitter if they are not blanched by excluding light from the stems for at least a few weeks prior to harvesting. Many people find the raw stalks are somewhat indigestible.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are often used as a flavoring in soups etc. They can also be eaten raw but have a very strong flavor and are probably best as a minor ingredient in a mixed salad.
Seed: used as a flavoring for sauces, soups, pickles etc. An essential oil from the seed is also used as a flavoring.
Root: cooked. There is not much of it but it can be cut up and added to soups.
Medicinal:
Although not as medicinally active as wild celery, the cultivated forms of celery also have the same medicinal properties and, when used as an item of the diet, will have a similar effect upon the body. These medicinal uses are as follows:- Wild celery is an aromatic bitter tonic herb that reduces blood pressure, relieves indigestion, stimulates the uterus and is anti-inflammatory. The ripe seeds, herb and root are aperient, carminative, diuretic, emmenagogue, galactogogue, nervine, stimulant and tonic. Wild celery is said to be useful in cases of hysteria, promoting restfulness and sleep and diffusing through the system a mild sustaining influence. The herb should not be prescribed for pregnant women. Seeds purchased for cultivation purposes are often dressed with a fungicide, they should not be used for medicinal purposes. The root is harvested in the autumn and can be used fresh or dried. The whole plant is harvested when fruiting and is usually liquidized to extract the juice. The seeds are harvested as they ripen and are dried for later use. An essential oil obtained from the plant has a calming effect on the central nervous system. Some of its constituents have antispasmodic, sedative and anticonvulsant actions. It has been shown to be of value in treating high blood pressure. A homeopathic remedy is made from the herb. It is used in treating rheumatism and kidney complaints.
Known hazards: If the plant is infected with the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, skin contact with the sap can cause dermatitis in sensitive people.
Pure Plant And Seeds Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: According to companion gardeners, celery thrives with leeks, tomatoes, cauliflower, cabbage, and bush beans.
Companions: Interplant with leeks in trenches, and fill gradually with soil to blanch both vegetables.
Both are potassium lovers; feed with fish emulsion to encourage better growth.
Enemies: None known.
Problems:
Aphids, celery worms, and slugs. Root rot may develop in overly wet soils. Early blight and late blight can cause significant problem in some areas.
Collards
How to Grow Collards
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Collards germinate and grow fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 80°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 11 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 13 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Collards are often started indoors for planting out in early spring and harvesting in early summer. Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be planted indoors. Collards don’t mind transplanting and can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
Germinate:
14-16 weeks before first frost date: Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be planted indoors. Collards don’t mind transplanting and can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Using floating row covers and cloches while plants are young will deter pests and also help to stabilize temperature and conserve moisture.
8-10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Using floating row covers and cloches while plants are young will deter pests and also help to stabilize temperature and conserve moisture.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 20 to 30" apart in mid spring. Wait until the cold weather has passed, so there is no chance of them being vernalized (which could cause them to bolt). Though Collards are most tender and better flavored when grown in cool weather, they do tolerate heat.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F.
When min soil temp: 45°F. Collards are pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However they will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 2 to 3" apart. As the planting fills in, it is gradually harvest thinned, first to 6", then to 12" and then (if the plants get big enough) to a final spacing of 15 to 18".
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 20 to 30" apart in mid spring. Wait until the cold weather has passed, so there is no chance of them being vernalized (which could cause them to bolt). Though Collards are most tender and better flavored when grown in cool weather, they do tolerate heat.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Collards are pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However they will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Seed Depth: 0.5-1.0". Collards germinate and grow fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq. ft. Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 2 to 3" apart. As the planting fills in, it is gradually harvest thinned, first to 6", then to 12" and then (if the plants get big enough) to a final spacing of 15 to 18".
Spring Crop:
2-8 weeks before last frost date: Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be started indoors. If pests are not a problem sow directly.
Collard seeds germinate fast and grow quickly, so they are easily direct sown.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart.
You can save time and space by planting your autumn Collards as an intercrop into an existing summer crop. It will gradually take over the space as the weather gets cooler.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be started indoors. If pests are not a problem sow directly.
Collard seeds germinate fast and grow quickly, so they are easily direct sown.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart.
You can save time and space by planting your autumn Collards as an intercrop into an existing summer crop. It will gradually take over the space as the weather gets cooler.
Crop Care:
Collards are one of the easiest of the Brassica family to grow (as well as one of the most nutritious), and is extremely productive for the work it requires.
Water Needs: Moderate. Collards must have plenty of water for maximum productivity and best quality.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Collards have similar nutritional requirements as kale, in that it needs a significant amount of phosphorus and potassium, but not a lot of nitrogen. It will flower early with too much nitrogen.
Weeding, after transplanting: after transplanting, every 2 weeks. Collards are is pretty independent once established, so you only really need worry about weeds while young.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, every 4 weeks. Feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, starting as soon as they have recovered from transplanting and every month thereafter. This is especially important if you are harvesting regularly.
Watering, after sowing: Water, 0.5 gallons per plant, after sowing, 1 time a week If the temperature is warm and your soil dries faster, then do this twice a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after planting: inches apart, after planting, every 3 weeks. As Collards fill in; they are gradually thinned/harvest, first to 6˝, then to 12˝ and then (if the plants get big enough) to a final spacing of 15 to 18˝. Or you can take leaves from the bottom of the plants and leave the growing heart alone.
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to cool soil, 1 time. If necessary, use a mulch in summer to suppress weeds, keep the soil cool and conserve soil moisture.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for richly thick, green leaves. Collards can be harvested repeatedly, often sending out new leaves for 6 months or more. If you consistently harvest you will extend the growing cycle.
When and How:
Whole Fruit: 1-120 days after maturity.
When: Though Collards tolerate hot weather, the leaves taste better in cool weather and it is as a winter crop that it really comes into its own. If you only gather a couple of leaves from a plant each time, it will continue to grow strongly.
How: Take leaves from the bottom of the plants and leave the growing heart alone.
Storage:
Collards are best washed, spun dried, leaves laid out in a dish towel and rolled then stored in an air tight bag. They will last 10 days in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Moist, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
Once cooked Collard greens can be frozen for a greater length of time.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Collards are biennial and will cross-pollinate with any other Brassica crop (broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale), so only one variety should be flowering at one time. Collards are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. Put seed pods in a paper bags and dry well. Store in cool, dry location.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 6 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Deep, rich, earthy flavor.
Culinary Use:
Collards dark green edible leaves can be prepared by sauteing or steaming. They often are served with smoked meats. Collards and black-eyes peas are a traditional New Year's Day dish. Collards are also great when prepared with bacon.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A strong cabbage flavor, they are delicious if used when fairly young though they can become tough with age. The leaves are usually available from autumn to late spring, and can be harvested all through the winter in all but the very coldest of seasons.
Young flowering shoots: raw or cooked. Picked before the flowers open, they are fairly tender and can be used as part of a mixed salad. When cooked, they have a delicious flavor similar to sprouting broccoli.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Planting tomatoes with collards has been shown in research to reduce flea beetles and diamondback moths. Marigolds may offer some protection against flea beetles and cabbage worms, but the marigolds may also reduce collard yields due to an allelopathic effect.
Companions: companion gardeners sometimes recommend collards for a trap crop around the cabbage patch. However, research indicates that such a practice may only make things worse, increasing rather than decreasing the number of pests on the cabbages.
Enemies: Companion gardening lore warns against planting collards or other cabbage family crops near grapes.
Problems:
Watch for cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Potential disease problems include leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Collards germinate and grow fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 80°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 11 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 13 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Collards are often started indoors for planting out in early spring and harvesting in early summer. Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be planted indoors. Collards don’t mind transplanting and can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
Germinate:
14-16 weeks before first frost date: Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be planted indoors. Collards don’t mind transplanting and can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Using floating row covers and cloches while plants are young will deter pests and also help to stabilize temperature and conserve moisture.
8-10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Using floating row covers and cloches while plants are young will deter pests and also help to stabilize temperature and conserve moisture.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 20 to 30" apart in mid spring. Wait until the cold weather has passed, so there is no chance of them being vernalized (which could cause them to bolt). Though Collards are most tender and better flavored when grown in cool weather, they do tolerate heat.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F.
When min soil temp: 45°F. Collards are pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However they will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 2 to 3" apart. As the planting fills in, it is gradually harvest thinned, first to 6", then to 12" and then (if the plants get big enough) to a final spacing of 15 to 18".
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 20 to 30" apart in mid spring. Wait until the cold weather has passed, so there is no chance of them being vernalized (which could cause them to bolt). Though Collards are most tender and better flavored when grown in cool weather, they do tolerate heat.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Collards are pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However they will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Seed Depth: 0.5-1.0". Collards germinate and grow fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq. ft. Collards are such a long season crop, they are usually direct sown 2 to 3" apart. As the planting fills in, it is gradually harvest thinned, first to 6", then to 12" and then (if the plants get big enough) to a final spacing of 15 to 18".
Spring Crop:
2-8 weeks before last frost date: Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be started indoors. If pests are not a problem sow directly.
Collard seeds germinate fast and grow quickly, so they are easily direct sown.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart.
You can save time and space by planting your autumn Collards as an intercrop into an existing summer crop. It will gradually take over the space as the weather gets cooler.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Where insects or other pests are a problem Collards should be started indoors. If pests are not a problem sow directly.
Collard seeds germinate fast and grow quickly, so they are easily direct sown.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart.
You can save time and space by planting your autumn Collards as an intercrop into an existing summer crop. It will gradually take over the space as the weather gets cooler.
Crop Care:
Collards are one of the easiest of the Brassica family to grow (as well as one of the most nutritious), and is extremely productive for the work it requires.
Water Needs: Moderate. Collards must have plenty of water for maximum productivity and best quality.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Collards have similar nutritional requirements as kale, in that it needs a significant amount of phosphorus and potassium, but not a lot of nitrogen. It will flower early with too much nitrogen.
Weeding, after transplanting: after transplanting, every 2 weeks. Collards are is pretty independent once established, so you only really need worry about weeds while young.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, every 4 weeks. Feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, starting as soon as they have recovered from transplanting and every month thereafter. This is especially important if you are harvesting regularly.
Watering, after sowing: Water, 0.5 gallons per plant, after sowing, 1 time a week If the temperature is warm and your soil dries faster, then do this twice a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after planting: inches apart, after planting, every 3 weeks. As Collards fill in; they are gradually thinned/harvest, first to 6˝, then to 12˝ and then (if the plants get big enough) to a final spacing of 15 to 18˝. Or you can take leaves from the bottom of the plants and leave the growing heart alone.
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to cool soil, 1 time. If necessary, use a mulch in summer to suppress weeds, keep the soil cool and conserve soil moisture.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Look for richly thick, green leaves. Collards can be harvested repeatedly, often sending out new leaves for 6 months or more. If you consistently harvest you will extend the growing cycle.
When and How:
Whole Fruit: 1-120 days after maturity.
When: Though Collards tolerate hot weather, the leaves taste better in cool weather and it is as a winter crop that it really comes into its own. If you only gather a couple of leaves from a plant each time, it will continue to grow strongly.
How: Take leaves from the bottom of the plants and leave the growing heart alone.
Storage:
Collards are best washed, spun dried, leaves laid out in a dish towel and rolled then stored in an air tight bag. They will last 10 days in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Moist, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
Once cooked Collard greens can be frozen for a greater length of time.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Collards are biennial and will cross-pollinate with any other Brassica crop (broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale), so only one variety should be flowering at one time. Collards are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. Put seed pods in a paper bags and dry well. Store in cool, dry location.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 6 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Deep, rich, earthy flavor.
Culinary Use:
Collards dark green edible leaves can be prepared by sauteing or steaming. They often are served with smoked meats. Collards and black-eyes peas are a traditional New Year's Day dish. Collards are also great when prepared with bacon.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A strong cabbage flavor, they are delicious if used when fairly young though they can become tough with age. The leaves are usually available from autumn to late spring, and can be harvested all through the winter in all but the very coldest of seasons.
Young flowering shoots: raw or cooked. Picked before the flowers open, they are fairly tender and can be used as part of a mixed salad. When cooked, they have a delicious flavor similar to sprouting broccoli.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Planting tomatoes with collards has been shown in research to reduce flea beetles and diamondback moths. Marigolds may offer some protection against flea beetles and cabbage worms, but the marigolds may also reduce collard yields due to an allelopathic effect.
Companions: companion gardeners sometimes recommend collards for a trap crop around the cabbage patch. However, research indicates that such a practice may only make things worse, increasing rather than decreasing the number of pests on the cabbages.
Enemies: Companion gardening lore warns against planting collards or other cabbage family crops near grapes.
Problems:
Watch for cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Potential disease problems include leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Corn
How to Grow Corn
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1.0" to 4.0". In spring when the soil is cool it should be planted only 1" deep. Later in the year, when the soil is warm, it may be planted as deep as 4".
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 105°F, optimal 60°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
3-4 weeks before last frost date: Very early Corn: Corn can be started indoors, in cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays. However this is only worthwhile for very early Corn, in exceptionally short or early cool growing conditions, or to avoid predators such as birds and mice. Sow 2 seeds in each cell or block and thin to the best one when they have all emerged. If germination is very good, you might just plant one seed per cell. The seedlings grow rapidly and will get root-bound if left in their containers for too long. Ideally they should be out of their pots and in the ground, within 3 to 4 weeks.
Transplant Outdoors:
On Last Frost Date: A couple of weeks before planting out, you should prepare the planting bed and lay down black plastic to warm it up. Plant the seedlings on the last frost date and cover with row covers, or cloches, to keep them warm until the weather warms up.
Warm, Hot: Corn is a sub-tropical plant and uses C4 photosynthesis, which enables it to grow more efficiently in high heat and light levels. It needs warm weather and as much sunlight as it can get. Sweet Corn can be grown in an intensive bed, but it must be in a large block for best pollination. There must be at least a group of 12 plants to insure good pollination. It is a tall growing plant, so must be planted where it won't shade other plants.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 60°F. Corn needs a warm soil for good germination. It will take 3 weeks to germinate at 50 degrees, but only 4 days at 80 degrees.
Spacing: 6"-8", 2 plants per sq. ft. Row planting: Corn is usually planted in rows but to ensure good pollination (which means full ears), it is important that the rows be in blocks. These should consist of at least four rows each. Put the plants 8" apart in the rows, with 24 to 36" between the rows.
Intensive Beds: Plant in offsets rows across the bed. The distance apart depends upon the soil: 18" (poor soil) 15" (average soil) 12" (excellent soil).
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Corn is a sub-tropical plant and uses C4 photosynthesis, which enables it to grow more efficiently in high heat and light levels. It needs warm weather and as much sunlight as it can get. Sweet Corn can be grown in an intensive bed, but it must be in a large block for best pollination. There must be at least a group of 12 plants to insure good pollination. It is a tall growing plant, so must be planted where it won't shade other plants.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 60°F. Corn needs a warm soil for good germination. It will take 3 weeks to germinate at 50 degrees, but only 4 days at 80 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-4.0". In spring when the soil is cool it should be planted only 1" deep. Later in the year, when the soil is warm, it may be planted as deep as 4".
Spacing: 6"-8", 2 plants per sq ft. Row planting: Corn is usually planted in rows but to ensure good pollination (which means full ears), it is important that the rows be in blocks. These should consist of at least four rows each. Put the plants 8" apart in the rows, with 24 to 36" between the rows.
Intensive Beds: Plant in offsets rows across the bed. The distance apart depends upon the soil: 18" (poor soil) 15" (average soil) 12" (excellent soil).
Spring Crop: 2-7 weeks after last frost date. Corn is almost always direct sown, because it grows fast, doesn’t like transplanting and it is less work.
1. To get the plants off to a good start, you might soak the seeds overnight prior to planting. For an even faster start you could pre-germinate them, but be careful not to break the brittle roots.
2. In spring when the soil is cool it should be planted only 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop: 8-12 weeks after last frost date. Corn is usually direct sown, because it grows fast, doesn’t like transplanting and it is less work.
1. To get the plants off to a good start, you might soak the seeds overnight prior to planting. For an even faster start you could pre-germinate them, but be careful not to break the brittle roots.
2. Later in the year, when the soil is warm, corn may be planted as deep as 4˝.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Corn is fairly easy to grow if it has warm conditions and enough nutrients, light and water. You then just have to make sure it gets pollinated properly. You need to be growing enough corn plants in a block to ensure good pollination, a minimum block of 4 feet.
Water Needs: Moderate. The best way to irrigate is with a soaker hose or a drip system. Don't use sprinklers during the pollen shedding stage, as it may affect pollination.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Corn is a notoriously hungry plant, which isn't surprising when you consider how fast it can grow. For best growth it needs generous amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as all of the other plant nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Sweet Corn is a thirsty plant so water it regularly. Water is especially crucial during tasseling and subsequent ear maturation, so make sure they get enough water at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. It is important to weed the plants carefully until they reach 12" in height. You can use a hoe for this, as they don’t have shallow roots. Once the plants are growing well no weed on earth can compete with them.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 8 inches apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Plant twice as many seeds as you need and thin to the recommended spacing when they are several inches high.
Side Dressing, when 12" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., when 12in tall, 1 time. It is a good idea to give the young plants a boost of nitrogen, such as compost tea, when the seedlings are about 12˝ tall and growing rapidly.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., at early fruit set, 1 time. Give them another dose of compost tea when the silks appear, for that final burst of growth.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: More than any other crop, it is important to gather Sweet Corn at the right time. The ears mature from 17 to 23 days after pollination (depending upon the weather) and there are many indicators of maturity. To check if an ear is ripe, pull open the top of the husk and squeeze a kernel. If it is fat and spurts milky juice, it is ready. If it is dimpled and spurts watery juice, it's not yet ripe (just close up the husk). Be aware that the new super sweet varieties may have clear juice and still be ripe. If the kernel is fat and tough, the ear is probably over-mature and will be starchy and not very good.
There are several other indicators that sweet corn is ready to pick:
The silks wither and turn dark brown.
The ear feels fat.
The end becomes rounded rather than pointed.
The ear tilts away from the stem.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-14 days after maturity:
When: More than any other crop, it is important to gather Sweet Corn at the right time. The ears mature from 17 to 23 days after pollination (depending upon the weather) and there are many indicators of maturity. Corn ripens quickly in warm weather so watch it carefully and harvest when it is ready (it is only really good for a few days). If you can’t use it immediately, freeze it, or give it away. If not harvested at the right time it will be wasted.
How: Snap the ripe ear from the plant by pulling it downwards. Be careful not to break the plant, or damage its neighbors.
Storage:
Old fashioned open pollinated sweet corn starts to deteriorate as soon as it is picked, hence the (somewhat tongue in cheek) advice to have the water boiling before going out to pick. The best way to store sweet corn is to remove it from the husk and freeze it in plastic bags.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
The newer super sweet hybrids stay sweet much longer and can be kept in the fridge for several days. Ears of corn in their husks can be kept in the refrigerator for a couple days. The sooner you eat them, the better.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Field corn or flower corn used for making corn meal and other corn products. The dry ears can be stored whole (they are quite decorative), but the seed takes up less space if you remove it from the ears. Make absolutely sure the seed is completely dry before storing it, otherwise it will go moldy.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Saving Seed: Corn is wind pollinated. Separate varieties by 600' for home use, or 1/2 to 1 mile for absolute purity. Save at least 500 seeds from at least 10% of the plants to maintain vigor and genetic diversity of the variety. Saving corn seed is a little more complicated than most other crops, because you have to worry about inbreeding (Corn strains are very inbred). It is said that if you want to maintain a pure variety indefinitely you need to save seed from at least 50 plants (some say a minimum of 100), to keep sufficient genetic variability.
Hand pollination: This isn't difficult, but takes some time, especially if you are pollinating 100 plants. The first step is to put a bag over the female flowers before the silks emerge, to prevent them being pollinated by any stray pollen. This must be taped shut, to prevent any pollen entering. The next morning, after the dew has dried, you go out and gently shake pollen from the newly opened tassels into a paper bag. Then simply transfer a little pollen onto the silks of each plant with a brush. You then replace the bags and leave them on until the silks go brown. Mark the ears carefully so they don't get eaten accidentally.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 3 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet and very tasty with a pronounced "corn" taste.
Culinary Use: Corn is best and tastes freshest when shucked and cleaned of corn silk right before cooking. Corn can be boiled, grilled or used in soups and stews. You can slice the kernels off the cob to make dishes such as creamed corn, corn custard or use with other summer vegetables for a summer salsa. Corn says "summer" so bring it in from the garden and cook it soon thereafter for a gardener's indulgence and a cook's delight.
Seed: raw or cooked. Corn is one of the most commonly grown foods in the world. The seed can be eaten raw or cooked before it is fully ripe and there are varieties especially developed for this purpose (the sweet corns) that have very sweet seeds and are delicious. The mature seed can be dried and used whole or ground into a flour. It has a very mild flavor and is used especially as a thickening agent in foods such as custards. The starch is often extracted from the grain and used in making confectionery, noodles etc. The dried seed of certain varieties can be heated in an oven when they burst to make "Popcorn". The seed can also be sprouted and used in making uncooked breads and cereals. A nutritional analysis is available. The fresh succulent "silks" (the flowering parts of the cob) can also be eaten. An edible oil is obtained from the seed, it is an all-purpose culinary oil that is frequently used as a food in salads and for cooking purposes. The pollen is used as an ingredient of soups. Rich in protein, it is harvested by tapping the flowering heads over a flat surface such as a bowl. Harvesting the pollen will actually help to improve fertilization of the seeds. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. The pith of the stem is chewed like sugar cane and is sometimes made into a syrup.
Medicinal:
A decoction of the leaves and roots is used in the treatment of strangury, dysuria and gravel. The corn silks are cholagogue, demulcent, diuretic, lithontripic, mildly stimulant and vasodilator. They also act to reduce blood sugar levels and so are used in the treatment of diabetes mellitus as well as cystitis, gonorrhea, gout etc. The silks are harvested before pollination occurs and are best used when fresh because they tend to lose their diuretic effect when stored and also become purgative. A decoction of the cob is used in the treatment of nose bleeds and menorrhagia. The seed is diuretic and a mild stimulant. It is a good emollient poultice for ulcers, swellings and rheumatic pains, and is widely used in the treatment of cancer, tumors and warts. It contains the cell-proliferant and wound-healing substance allantoin, which is widely used in herbal medicine (especially from the herb comfrey, Symphytum officinale) to speed the healing process. The plant is said to have anticancer properties and is experimentally hypoglycaemic and hypotensive.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: The benefits of planting corn with beans has been upheld by scientific research, which showed increased yields when corn was grown with a legume. One study points out that an interplanting of soybeans encourages parasitic Trichogramma wasps, which help control corn earworms. Soybeans or peanuts also increase populations of predatory insects, which help reduce the number of corn borers. Beans and corn are mutually beneficial: Beans help keep fall armyworms in check on corn, notes one study, while corn minimizes leafhoppers on bean plants. Alternate rows of corn and bush beans, two rows of corn to one row of beans. Or plant pole beans to climb corn rows.
Companions: Sunflower borders were a tradition in American Indian gardens. British research indicates that strips of sunflowers alternated with corn will increase yields and decrease infestations of all armyworms. Squash and pumpkins do well in the shade of the corn rows.
Enemies: The weed quack grass (Agropyron repens) appears to make nitrogen and potassium unavailable to corn, even when the area is heavily fertilized. Leached toxins from wheat straw mulch reduced corn yields in farm research by 44-94 percent.
Problems:
The most common pests include corn borers, flea beetles, and cutworms. Animal pests can be serious once ears develop. Clean garden practices, crop rotation, and planting resistant strains are generally the best defense.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1.0" to 4.0". In spring when the soil is cool it should be planted only 1" deep. Later in the year, when the soil is warm, it may be planted as deep as 4".
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 105°F, optimal 60°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
3-4 weeks before last frost date: Very early Corn: Corn can be started indoors, in cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays. However this is only worthwhile for very early Corn, in exceptionally short or early cool growing conditions, or to avoid predators such as birds and mice. Sow 2 seeds in each cell or block and thin to the best one when they have all emerged. If germination is very good, you might just plant one seed per cell. The seedlings grow rapidly and will get root-bound if left in their containers for too long. Ideally they should be out of their pots and in the ground, within 3 to 4 weeks.
Transplant Outdoors:
On Last Frost Date: A couple of weeks before planting out, you should prepare the planting bed and lay down black plastic to warm it up. Plant the seedlings on the last frost date and cover with row covers, or cloches, to keep them warm until the weather warms up.
Warm, Hot: Corn is a sub-tropical plant and uses C4 photosynthesis, which enables it to grow more efficiently in high heat and light levels. It needs warm weather and as much sunlight as it can get. Sweet Corn can be grown in an intensive bed, but it must be in a large block for best pollination. There must be at least a group of 12 plants to insure good pollination. It is a tall growing plant, so must be planted where it won't shade other plants.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 60°F. Corn needs a warm soil for good germination. It will take 3 weeks to germinate at 50 degrees, but only 4 days at 80 degrees.
Spacing: 6"-8", 2 plants per sq. ft. Row planting: Corn is usually planted in rows but to ensure good pollination (which means full ears), it is important that the rows be in blocks. These should consist of at least four rows each. Put the plants 8" apart in the rows, with 24 to 36" between the rows.
Intensive Beds: Plant in offsets rows across the bed. The distance apart depends upon the soil: 18" (poor soil) 15" (average soil) 12" (excellent soil).
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Corn is a sub-tropical plant and uses C4 photosynthesis, which enables it to grow more efficiently in high heat and light levels. It needs warm weather and as much sunlight as it can get. Sweet Corn can be grown in an intensive bed, but it must be in a large block for best pollination. There must be at least a group of 12 plants to insure good pollination. It is a tall growing plant, so must be planted where it won't shade other plants.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 60°F. Corn needs a warm soil for good germination. It will take 3 weeks to germinate at 50 degrees, but only 4 days at 80 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-4.0". In spring when the soil is cool it should be planted only 1" deep. Later in the year, when the soil is warm, it may be planted as deep as 4".
Spacing: 6"-8", 2 plants per sq ft. Row planting: Corn is usually planted in rows but to ensure good pollination (which means full ears), it is important that the rows be in blocks. These should consist of at least four rows each. Put the plants 8" apart in the rows, with 24 to 36" between the rows.
Intensive Beds: Plant in offsets rows across the bed. The distance apart depends upon the soil: 18" (poor soil) 15" (average soil) 12" (excellent soil).
Spring Crop: 2-7 weeks after last frost date. Corn is almost always direct sown, because it grows fast, doesn’t like transplanting and it is less work.
1. To get the plants off to a good start, you might soak the seeds overnight prior to planting. For an even faster start you could pre-germinate them, but be careful not to break the brittle roots.
2. In spring when the soil is cool it should be planted only 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop: 8-12 weeks after last frost date. Corn is usually direct sown, because it grows fast, doesn’t like transplanting and it is less work.
1. To get the plants off to a good start, you might soak the seeds overnight prior to planting. For an even faster start you could pre-germinate them, but be careful not to break the brittle roots.
2. Later in the year, when the soil is warm, corn may be planted as deep as 4˝.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Corn is fairly easy to grow if it has warm conditions and enough nutrients, light and water. You then just have to make sure it gets pollinated properly. You need to be growing enough corn plants in a block to ensure good pollination, a minimum block of 4 feet.
Water Needs: Moderate. The best way to irrigate is with a soaker hose or a drip system. Don't use sprinklers during the pollen shedding stage, as it may affect pollination.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Corn is a notoriously hungry plant, which isn't surprising when you consider how fast it can grow. For best growth it needs generous amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as all of the other plant nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Sweet Corn is a thirsty plant so water it regularly. Water is especially crucial during tasseling and subsequent ear maturation, so make sure they get enough water at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. It is important to weed the plants carefully until they reach 12" in height. You can use a hoe for this, as they don’t have shallow roots. Once the plants are growing well no weed on earth can compete with them.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 8 inches apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Plant twice as many seeds as you need and thin to the recommended spacing when they are several inches high.
Side Dressing, when 12" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., when 12in tall, 1 time. It is a good idea to give the young plants a boost of nitrogen, such as compost tea, when the seedlings are about 12˝ tall and growing rapidly.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., at early fruit set, 1 time. Give them another dose of compost tea when the silks appear, for that final burst of growth.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: More than any other crop, it is important to gather Sweet Corn at the right time. The ears mature from 17 to 23 days after pollination (depending upon the weather) and there are many indicators of maturity. To check if an ear is ripe, pull open the top of the husk and squeeze a kernel. If it is fat and spurts milky juice, it is ready. If it is dimpled and spurts watery juice, it's not yet ripe (just close up the husk). Be aware that the new super sweet varieties may have clear juice and still be ripe. If the kernel is fat and tough, the ear is probably over-mature and will be starchy and not very good.
There are several other indicators that sweet corn is ready to pick:
The silks wither and turn dark brown.
The ear feels fat.
The end becomes rounded rather than pointed.
The ear tilts away from the stem.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-14 days after maturity:
When: More than any other crop, it is important to gather Sweet Corn at the right time. The ears mature from 17 to 23 days after pollination (depending upon the weather) and there are many indicators of maturity. Corn ripens quickly in warm weather so watch it carefully and harvest when it is ready (it is only really good for a few days). If you can’t use it immediately, freeze it, or give it away. If not harvested at the right time it will be wasted.
How: Snap the ripe ear from the plant by pulling it downwards. Be careful not to break the plant, or damage its neighbors.
Storage:
Old fashioned open pollinated sweet corn starts to deteriorate as soon as it is picked, hence the (somewhat tongue in cheek) advice to have the water boiling before going out to pick. The best way to store sweet corn is to remove it from the husk and freeze it in plastic bags.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
The newer super sweet hybrids stay sweet much longer and can be kept in the fridge for several days. Ears of corn in their husks can be kept in the refrigerator for a couple days. The sooner you eat them, the better.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Field corn or flower corn used for making corn meal and other corn products. The dry ears can be stored whole (they are quite decorative), but the seed takes up less space if you remove it from the ears. Make absolutely sure the seed is completely dry before storing it, otherwise it will go moldy.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Saving Seed: Corn is wind pollinated. Separate varieties by 600' for home use, or 1/2 to 1 mile for absolute purity. Save at least 500 seeds from at least 10% of the plants to maintain vigor and genetic diversity of the variety. Saving corn seed is a little more complicated than most other crops, because you have to worry about inbreeding (Corn strains are very inbred). It is said that if you want to maintain a pure variety indefinitely you need to save seed from at least 50 plants (some say a minimum of 100), to keep sufficient genetic variability.
Hand pollination: This isn't difficult, but takes some time, especially if you are pollinating 100 plants. The first step is to put a bag over the female flowers before the silks emerge, to prevent them being pollinated by any stray pollen. This must be taped shut, to prevent any pollen entering. The next morning, after the dew has dried, you go out and gently shake pollen from the newly opened tassels into a paper bag. Then simply transfer a little pollen onto the silks of each plant with a brush. You then replace the bags and leave them on until the silks go brown. Mark the ears carefully so they don't get eaten accidentally.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 3 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet and very tasty with a pronounced "corn" taste.
Culinary Use: Corn is best and tastes freshest when shucked and cleaned of corn silk right before cooking. Corn can be boiled, grilled or used in soups and stews. You can slice the kernels off the cob to make dishes such as creamed corn, corn custard or use with other summer vegetables for a summer salsa. Corn says "summer" so bring it in from the garden and cook it soon thereafter for a gardener's indulgence and a cook's delight.
Seed: raw or cooked. Corn is one of the most commonly grown foods in the world. The seed can be eaten raw or cooked before it is fully ripe and there are varieties especially developed for this purpose (the sweet corns) that have very sweet seeds and are delicious. The mature seed can be dried and used whole or ground into a flour. It has a very mild flavor and is used especially as a thickening agent in foods such as custards. The starch is often extracted from the grain and used in making confectionery, noodles etc. The dried seed of certain varieties can be heated in an oven when they burst to make "Popcorn". The seed can also be sprouted and used in making uncooked breads and cereals. A nutritional analysis is available. The fresh succulent "silks" (the flowering parts of the cob) can also be eaten. An edible oil is obtained from the seed, it is an all-purpose culinary oil that is frequently used as a food in salads and for cooking purposes. The pollen is used as an ingredient of soups. Rich in protein, it is harvested by tapping the flowering heads over a flat surface such as a bowl. Harvesting the pollen will actually help to improve fertilization of the seeds. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. The pith of the stem is chewed like sugar cane and is sometimes made into a syrup.
Medicinal:
A decoction of the leaves and roots is used in the treatment of strangury, dysuria and gravel. The corn silks are cholagogue, demulcent, diuretic, lithontripic, mildly stimulant and vasodilator. They also act to reduce blood sugar levels and so are used in the treatment of diabetes mellitus as well as cystitis, gonorrhea, gout etc. The silks are harvested before pollination occurs and are best used when fresh because they tend to lose their diuretic effect when stored and also become purgative. A decoction of the cob is used in the treatment of nose bleeds and menorrhagia. The seed is diuretic and a mild stimulant. It is a good emollient poultice for ulcers, swellings and rheumatic pains, and is widely used in the treatment of cancer, tumors and warts. It contains the cell-proliferant and wound-healing substance allantoin, which is widely used in herbal medicine (especially from the herb comfrey, Symphytum officinale) to speed the healing process. The plant is said to have anticancer properties and is experimentally hypoglycaemic and hypotensive.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: The benefits of planting corn with beans has been upheld by scientific research, which showed increased yields when corn was grown with a legume. One study points out that an interplanting of soybeans encourages parasitic Trichogramma wasps, which help control corn earworms. Soybeans or peanuts also increase populations of predatory insects, which help reduce the number of corn borers. Beans and corn are mutually beneficial: Beans help keep fall armyworms in check on corn, notes one study, while corn minimizes leafhoppers on bean plants. Alternate rows of corn and bush beans, two rows of corn to one row of beans. Or plant pole beans to climb corn rows.
Companions: Sunflower borders were a tradition in American Indian gardens. British research indicates that strips of sunflowers alternated with corn will increase yields and decrease infestations of all armyworms. Squash and pumpkins do well in the shade of the corn rows.
Enemies: The weed quack grass (Agropyron repens) appears to make nitrogen and potassium unavailable to corn, even when the area is heavily fertilized. Leached toxins from wheat straw mulch reduced corn yields in farm research by 44-94 percent.
Problems:
The most common pests include corn borers, flea beetles, and cutworms. Animal pests can be serious once ears develop. Clean garden practices, crop rotation, and planting resistant strains are generally the best defense.
Corn Salad
How to Grow Corn Salad
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Corn Salad needs a good supply of moisture and regular weeding. It does best in cooler climates.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 65°F, optimal temp 50°F to 60°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Corn salad actually prefers cool weather, but germination can be slow (be patient).
Seed Depth: 1/4"-1/2". Plant the seed 1/4 to 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 2-3", 16 plants per sq ft.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date. In cool climates Corn salad is often grown as a spring crop (it is the first crop to go in the ground in spring). However it tends to bolt as soon as the weather gets warm.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date. Corn salad prefers to grow in cool weather and really does best when planted in early fall, to grow through the winter. In the coldest climates it can be grown in a cold frame or under row covers. However you have to be careful it doesn't get too warm or this may cause it to bolt. Corn salad is sometimes sown in fall for a spring crop.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Specialty greens need to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need.
Water Needs: High. These fast-growing plants must have all of the water they need for rapid growth. It is important that the soil is kept moist at all times.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. These greens grow quickly and for best growth and flavor they should have all of the nutrients readily available, which means the soil needs to be fairly fertile. Their main requirement is for nitrogen, but they also need moderate amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Watering, regularly: Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. These greens are delicate and do not like to dry out. Good watering practices can help offset the negative effects of summer heat, so it is important to keep the soil constantly moist. In hot weather this may mean watering every day. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: If your soil is not as rich as it could be, or if the soil is cool, give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 weeks or so.
Thinning, when 4" tall: You can plant these greens closer together than the variety requirements and then thin them out as they grow (eat the thinnings).
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Mature plants form a rosette of leaves that measures 3 to 5 inches across.
Storage:
Specialty greens are so tender and delicate they do not keep very well. You can keep them in a plastic bag in the fridge for a few days. Don't wash them until you are going to use them.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Most of these are fairly easy to save seed from, you just have to leave them in the ground long enough to flower and produce seed.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet, mild and slightly nutty.
Culinary Use:
A nutty flavored, tender, delicate green leaf makes a wonderful addition to a salad or it can be the main ingredient in a salad.
Edible parts of Corn Salad:
Young leaves: raw. A very mild flavor, with a delicate quality that makes them seem to melt in the mouth, they can be added in quantity to salads. The leaves can be available all year round from successional sowings and will only require protection in the colder winters.
Flowers and flowering stems: raw.
Companion Planting:
Carrot, Turnip, Leek, Cabbage and Viola.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Corn Salad needs a good supply of moisture and regular weeding. It does best in cooler climates.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 65°F, optimal temp 50°F to 60°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Corn salad actually prefers cool weather, but germination can be slow (be patient).
Seed Depth: 1/4"-1/2". Plant the seed 1/4 to 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 2-3", 16 plants per sq ft.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date. In cool climates Corn salad is often grown as a spring crop (it is the first crop to go in the ground in spring). However it tends to bolt as soon as the weather gets warm.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date. Corn salad prefers to grow in cool weather and really does best when planted in early fall, to grow through the winter. In the coldest climates it can be grown in a cold frame or under row covers. However you have to be careful it doesn't get too warm or this may cause it to bolt. Corn salad is sometimes sown in fall for a spring crop.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Specialty greens need to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need.
Water Needs: High. These fast-growing plants must have all of the water they need for rapid growth. It is important that the soil is kept moist at all times.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. These greens grow quickly and for best growth and flavor they should have all of the nutrients readily available, which means the soil needs to be fairly fertile. Their main requirement is for nitrogen, but they also need moderate amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Watering, regularly: Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. These greens are delicate and do not like to dry out. Good watering practices can help offset the negative effects of summer heat, so it is important to keep the soil constantly moist. In hot weather this may mean watering every day. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: If your soil is not as rich as it could be, or if the soil is cool, give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 weeks or so.
Thinning, when 4" tall: You can plant these greens closer together than the variety requirements and then thin them out as they grow (eat the thinnings).
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Mature plants form a rosette of leaves that measures 3 to 5 inches across.
Storage:
Specialty greens are so tender and delicate they do not keep very well. You can keep them in a plastic bag in the fridge for a few days. Don't wash them until you are going to use them.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Most of these are fairly easy to save seed from, you just have to leave them in the ground long enough to flower and produce seed.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet, mild and slightly nutty.
Culinary Use:
A nutty flavored, tender, delicate green leaf makes a wonderful addition to a salad or it can be the main ingredient in a salad.
Edible parts of Corn Salad:
Young leaves: raw. A very mild flavor, with a delicate quality that makes them seem to melt in the mouth, they can be added in quantity to salads. The leaves can be available all year round from successional sowings and will only require protection in the colder winters.
Flowers and flowering stems: raw.
Companion Planting:
Carrot, Turnip, Leek, Cabbage and Viola.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems.
Cucumber
How to Grow Cucumber
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Transplant Outdoors:
3-4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately. If the weather isn’t warm, you might want to cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36 to 48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3' in diameter and 6' high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36-48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' feet apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. Once the soil has warmed up it is simpler to sow cucumbers directly in the soil. In good conditions they grow very quickly and will often catch up with transplants, even though they were started several weeks later.
1. You might want to soak the seed overnight before planting to hasten germination. You can even pre-germinate them (this is easy because they are so large).
2. Plant the seeds 2˝ to 3˝ deep.
Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Crop Care:
If you give them everything they need, growing cucumbers is fairly straightforward.
Water Needs: High. Watering, regularly. Water, 3 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week Keep plants well watered. When the plants start producing, you should keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet) at all times or else your fruits will be bitter in flavor or misshapen. Ideally the water should be lukewarm (70˚ F), so it doesn’t shock the plants, or cool the soil significantly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy.
Side Dressing, to warm soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to warm soil, 1 time. Mulch is beneficial to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. The soil must be warm before you put this on though, as mulch insulates the soil and prevents it from warming up.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cups per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Protecting, after transplanting: Row covers, 1 layer, after transplanting, 1 time. If the weather is cool, cover the plants with row covers for the first few weeks.
Side Dressing, when 18" tall: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, when 18" tall, 1 time. If your soil isn’t very fertile, give them another feed when they are about 18˝ high. Give each plant 2 cups of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Pruning, before fruit set: before fruit set, 3 times. Some people pinch out the growing tips of the young plants, to encourage branching. You might also pinch out the first few lateral shoots to encourage the plant to grow larger before it starts producing fruit.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Harvesting:
Ripening: The fruit are ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. Harvest while small to medium-sized for best flavor. Keep harvesting fruit, even if misshapen, to keep vines productive.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-70 days after maturity
When: The fruit will be ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. The first fruits are usually quite small, simply because the plants themselves aren’t very big.
For maximum yield you should harvest the fruits just before they reach full size. You can gather them when smaller than this, but you won’t get as much food.
Once the plants start producing, you should check them every 2 to 3 days and harvest any fruits that are ready. Don’t leave the fruits too long, as they will start to develop hard seeds and the skin will toughen and turn yellow. Definitely don’t allow any fruits to mature on the vine, as they can stop the plant producing altogether. Pick the fruits regularly, even if you just throw them away. If you want small fruits for pickling, you can harvest ordinary cucumbers while they are still small, but the specially bred pickling varieties will be much more productive.
How: It’s better to cut the fruit from the vine, rather than pulling it off. The stem is quite tough and it’s easy to break off the vine accidentally. Ideally you should leave a short section of stem on each fruit, to prevent moisture loss. Brush any small spines off of the fruit with your hands.
Storage:
Cucumbers can be pickled and stored in jars in the pantry.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Cucumbers should be stored in a cool place (40 to 50˚ F), but not as cold as a refrigerator. They don’t keep for much more than a week, which is probably why pickling became popular.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 40-50°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Cucumbers are cross-pollinated by bees, and so must either be isolated by at least 1000 yards or hand pollinated. Hand pollination is fairly straightforward because the flowers are so large. It is done in the same way as for Squash flowers. Make sure you select the best and most typical plants for producing seed.
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet mild flavor.
Culinary Use:
Slicing Cucumbers are primarily used in salads or eaten on their own. They may also be paired with yogurt, made into tea sandwiches, used to infuse water or made into soup. Depending on the type of skin some cucumbers may need to be peeled. Cucumbers give off a lot of water so if using in a salad it's best to add dressing at the last minute. Cucumbers make a wonderful salad all by themselves, or eaten raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The cucumber is a common ingredient of salads, being valued mainly for its crisp texture and juiciness. However, it is very watery, with little flavor and is not very nutritious. Many people find the fruit to be indigestible, this is due to the high cellulose content. The fruit varies widely in size between cultivars but can be up to 1 meter long. It can be available from mid summer until early autumn from outdoor grown plants.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat.
Young leaves and stems: cooked as a potherb.
Oil from seed: said to resemble olive oil, it is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The oil contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid.
Medicinal:
The leaf juice is emetic, it is used to treat dyspepsia in children. The fruit is depurative, diuretic, emollient, purgative and resolvent. The fresh fruit is used internally in the treatment of blemished skin, heat rash etc, whilst it is used externally as a poultice for burns, sores etc and also as a cosmetic for softening the skin. The seed is cooling, diuretic, tonic and vermifuge. 25 - 50 grams of the thoroughly ground seeds (including the seed coat) is a standard dose as a vermifuge and usually needs to be followed by a purgative to expel the worms from the body. A decoction of the root is diuretic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions: warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from cucumbers. It is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for cucumber beetles which feed on the foliage and transmit diseases. Aphids and spider mites may be troublesome. Wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew, anthracnose, stem blight, scab and leaf spot may occur. Mosaic virus is a potential problem in some areas.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Transplant Outdoors:
3-4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately. If the weather isn’t warm, you might want to cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36 to 48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3' in diameter and 6' high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36-48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' feet apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. Once the soil has warmed up it is simpler to sow cucumbers directly in the soil. In good conditions they grow very quickly and will often catch up with transplants, even though they were started several weeks later.
1. You might want to soak the seed overnight before planting to hasten germination. You can even pre-germinate them (this is easy because they are so large).
2. Plant the seeds 2˝ to 3˝ deep.
Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Crop Care:
If you give them everything they need, growing cucumbers is fairly straightforward.
Water Needs: High. Watering, regularly. Water, 3 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week Keep plants well watered. When the plants start producing, you should keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet) at all times or else your fruits will be bitter in flavor or misshapen. Ideally the water should be lukewarm (70˚ F), so it doesn’t shock the plants, or cool the soil significantly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy.
Side Dressing, to warm soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to warm soil, 1 time. Mulch is beneficial to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. The soil must be warm before you put this on though, as mulch insulates the soil and prevents it from warming up.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cups per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Protecting, after transplanting: Row covers, 1 layer, after transplanting, 1 time. If the weather is cool, cover the plants with row covers for the first few weeks.
Side Dressing, when 18" tall: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, when 18" tall, 1 time. If your soil isn’t very fertile, give them another feed when they are about 18˝ high. Give each plant 2 cups of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Pruning, before fruit set: before fruit set, 3 times. Some people pinch out the growing tips of the young plants, to encourage branching. You might also pinch out the first few lateral shoots to encourage the plant to grow larger before it starts producing fruit.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Harvesting:
Ripening: The fruit are ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. Harvest while small to medium-sized for best flavor. Keep harvesting fruit, even if misshapen, to keep vines productive.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-70 days after maturity
When: The fruit will be ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. The first fruits are usually quite small, simply because the plants themselves aren’t very big.
For maximum yield you should harvest the fruits just before they reach full size. You can gather them when smaller than this, but you won’t get as much food.
Once the plants start producing, you should check them every 2 to 3 days and harvest any fruits that are ready. Don’t leave the fruits too long, as they will start to develop hard seeds and the skin will toughen and turn yellow. Definitely don’t allow any fruits to mature on the vine, as they can stop the plant producing altogether. Pick the fruits regularly, even if you just throw them away. If you want small fruits for pickling, you can harvest ordinary cucumbers while they are still small, but the specially bred pickling varieties will be much more productive.
How: It’s better to cut the fruit from the vine, rather than pulling it off. The stem is quite tough and it’s easy to break off the vine accidentally. Ideally you should leave a short section of stem on each fruit, to prevent moisture loss. Brush any small spines off of the fruit with your hands.
Storage:
Cucumbers can be pickled and stored in jars in the pantry.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Cucumbers should be stored in a cool place (40 to 50˚ F), but not as cold as a refrigerator. They don’t keep for much more than a week, which is probably why pickling became popular.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 40-50°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Cucumbers are cross-pollinated by bees, and so must either be isolated by at least 1000 yards or hand pollinated. Hand pollination is fairly straightforward because the flowers are so large. It is done in the same way as for Squash flowers. Make sure you select the best and most typical plants for producing seed.
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet mild flavor.
Culinary Use:
Slicing Cucumbers are primarily used in salads or eaten on their own. They may also be paired with yogurt, made into tea sandwiches, used to infuse water or made into soup. Depending on the type of skin some cucumbers may need to be peeled. Cucumbers give off a lot of water so if using in a salad it's best to add dressing at the last minute. Cucumbers make a wonderful salad all by themselves, or eaten raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The cucumber is a common ingredient of salads, being valued mainly for its crisp texture and juiciness. However, it is very watery, with little flavor and is not very nutritious. Many people find the fruit to be indigestible, this is due to the high cellulose content. The fruit varies widely in size between cultivars but can be up to 1 meter long. It can be available from mid summer until early autumn from outdoor grown plants.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat.
Young leaves and stems: cooked as a potherb.
Oil from seed: said to resemble olive oil, it is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The oil contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid.
Medicinal:
The leaf juice is emetic, it is used to treat dyspepsia in children. The fruit is depurative, diuretic, emollient, purgative and resolvent. The fresh fruit is used internally in the treatment of blemished skin, heat rash etc, whilst it is used externally as a poultice for burns, sores etc and also as a cosmetic for softening the skin. The seed is cooling, diuretic, tonic and vermifuge. 25 - 50 grams of the thoroughly ground seeds (including the seed coat) is a standard dose as a vermifuge and usually needs to be followed by a purgative to expel the worms from the body. A decoction of the root is diuretic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions: warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from cucumbers. It is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for cucumber beetles which feed on the foliage and transmit diseases. Aphids and spider mites may be troublesome. Wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew, anthracnose, stem blight, scab and leaf spot may occur. Mosaic virus is a potential problem in some areas.
Eggplant
How to Grow Eggplant
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seeds 1/4" deep in cool soil, 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 75°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 4-6 weeks before last frost date. The seed must be started indoors quite early (8 to 10 weeks before setting out), so the plants have enough time to make good growth by transplanting time. They must have warm conditions if they are going to make much progress (80 to 90˚ F is ideal). Eggplant seed is one the most temperamental of all the common crops. Even at the optimal temperature of 86˚ F you should only expect about 60% of seeds to actually germinate. Soaking the seed overnight may hasten germination. Eggplants don’t like root disturbance, so are best started in cell packs or soil blocks. Plant two per cell and when they have both emerged, thin to the best one.
Transplant Outdoors:
4-6 weeks after last frost date: Eggplants can’t tolerate cold weather, so they are among the last plants to go outside in spring (usually a couple of weeks after Tomato). The soil temperature should be at least 60˚ F and the air temperature at least 70˚ F. Be careful when transplanting, as any damage will show up as poor growth and delayed fruiting.
1. Plant the seedlings up to their first true leaves.
Planting Early: It is possible to set them out earlier, if the soil is warmed by black plastic mulch or cloches and they are protected by cloches.
Warm, Hot: Eggplant needs a warm, sunny spot, sheltered from cold winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Eggplants is a tropical plant and needs warm soil for germination, a minimum of 60 degrees F.
Spacing: 20-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft
Beds: Put transplants 18˝ apart in the intensive beds.
Rows: Space them 18-24˝ apart in the rows, with 24-36˝ between the rows.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Eggplant needs a warm, sunny spot, sheltered from cold winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Eggplants is a tropical plant and needs warm soil for germination, a minimum of 60 degrees F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seeds 1/4" deep in cool soil, 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 20-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft.
Beds: Put transplants 18˝ apart in the intensive beds.
Rows: Space them 18-24˝ apart in the rows, with 24-36˝ between the rows.
Spring Crop: 6-8 weeks after last frost date. If you have a very long growing season you can start the seed outdoors. Eggplant seed is one the most temperamental of all the common crops. Even at the optimal temperature of 86˚ F you should only expect about 60% of seeds to actually germinate. Soaking the seed overnight may hasten germination.
Support: True. Although it is not absolutely necessary, it is a good idea to provide some support for Eggplants, as they can grow quite leggy and become heavy with fruit late in the season. Many gardeners prefer to simply use a stake to bolster each plant. You can also use tomato cages.
Crop Care:
To produce well, Eggplant needs good soil, abundant moisture and warmth.
Water Needs: Moderate. The plants are fairly drought tolerant, but need moist soil for maximum fruit production.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. They like nitrogen and moderate amounts of phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week The plants are fairly drought tolerant, but need moist soil for maximum fruit production. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Eggplants are quite shallow rooted, so don’t use a hoe around them. Weed carefully by hand instead.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 quart(s), after transplanting, every 3 weeks. Once the seedlings have started growing well, give them a dose of compost tea or liquid kelp (they especially need nitrogen and potassium). Repeat this every month for maximum production.
Harvesting:
Ripening: The fruits are harvested just as they reach full size, while their skin is still shiny. If the skin has turned dull and the seeds are brown it is too old.
When to pick eggplants: A member of the nightshade family and a relative of tomatoes, the appearance of the skin can direct you to picking an eggplant. Skin should be glossy and thin. Eggplant harvest may begin when the fruits are developed and small, but growing fruits to full size before harvesting eggplants results in more fruit for usage. Harvesting eggplants should occur when the inner flesh is cream colored, fruits are firm and before seeds are visible. Learning when to harvest eggplants may require cutting into the fruit to check the color of the flesh and the size of the seeds. Skin color and size of the fruit will also determine when the eggplant harvest should begin. When you’ve learned how to harvest an eggplant, less cutting into the fruit is necessary. You’ll be able to determine when to begin the eggplant harvest by just looking at the fruit.
Picking an eggplant: Once you’ve determined that it’s time to start the eggplant harvest, wear gloves and long sleeves, as the eggplant stem has prickles, which can irritate the skin. When harvesting eggplants, treat the fruit gently, as it bruises easily. Harvesting eggplants includes cutting a short piece of stem above the calyx (cap) attached to the top of the fruit. Use pruners or a sharp knife. Harvesting eggplants at their prime may take several days to a few weeks in succession, and frequent eggplant harvest promotes heavier yield of the fruit
Storage:
Eggplant should be treated like a Tomato and stored at room temperature, rather than in the fridge. The fruit will keep for a couple of weeks in a cool place, but no longer.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
The plants are generally self-pollinated, but some cross pollination by insects also occurs. To keep a variety pure only one variety should be grown at one time, or it should be isolated by at least 50 feet. To ensure genetic variability, you should save the seed from at least 6 plants.
To get ripe seed, you need to let a fruit ripen completely. Separate the seed from the fruit by grating the seed bearing flesh and then mashing it in water. The seeds is then dried for storage. Eggplant seed is quite long lived if stored properly and may last for ten years.
Seed Viability in Years: 6-10 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Fine creamy flesh that holds together well with a tender mild flavor.
Culinary Use: Eggplant can be sautéed, grilled, stuffed, baked and fried. Eggplant absorbs a lot of oil which makes grilling or baking the preferred method of cooking. Stuffing with vegetables and or meat can be a meal in itself. Simple grilled summer vegetables such as eggplant, zucchini, red peppers dressed with a little rosemary, olive oil and balsamic is a wonderful blend of Mediterranean flavors. Steamed and pureed eggplant is a great tomato paste substitute (really!).
Fruit: raw or cooked. The fruit should not be eaten raw. It can be baked, stewed or added to soups, curries etc. The fruit is said to be very nutritious. It is a good source of vitamin C and potassium. The fruit can be up to nearly 8" long in cultivated plants.
Leaves: mixed with rice bran and salt in which "Daikon" (a form of radish ) roots have been pickled.
Known hazards: All green parts of the plant are poisonous.
Medicinal:
The aubergine is used mainly as a food crop, but it does also have various medicinal uses that make it a valuable addition to the diet. In particular the fruit helps to lower blood cholesterol levels and is suitable as part of a diet to help regulate high blood pressure. The fruit is anti hemorrhoid and hypotensive. It is also used as an antidote to poisonous mushrooms. It is bruised with vinegar and used as a poultice for cracked nipples, abscesses and hemorrhoids. The leaves are narcotic. A decoction is applied to discharging sores and internal hemorrhages. A soothing and emollient poultice for the treatment of burns, abscesses, cold sores and similar conditions can be made from the leaves. Aubergine leaves are toxic and should only be used externally. The ashes of the peduncle are used in the treatment of intestinal hemorrhages, piles and toothache. A decoction of the root is astringent.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with amaranth, bush beans, pole beans, peas, spinach, tarragon, thyme and marigold. Growing eggplants among bush beans protects from attacks of the Colorado potato beetle. Eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and does well with peppers as they like the same growing conditions
Problems:
Subject to problems similar to other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be problems.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seeds 1/4" deep in cool soil, 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 75°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 4-6 weeks before last frost date. The seed must be started indoors quite early (8 to 10 weeks before setting out), so the plants have enough time to make good growth by transplanting time. They must have warm conditions if they are going to make much progress (80 to 90˚ F is ideal). Eggplant seed is one the most temperamental of all the common crops. Even at the optimal temperature of 86˚ F you should only expect about 60% of seeds to actually germinate. Soaking the seed overnight may hasten germination. Eggplants don’t like root disturbance, so are best started in cell packs or soil blocks. Plant two per cell and when they have both emerged, thin to the best one.
Transplant Outdoors:
4-6 weeks after last frost date: Eggplants can’t tolerate cold weather, so they are among the last plants to go outside in spring (usually a couple of weeks after Tomato). The soil temperature should be at least 60˚ F and the air temperature at least 70˚ F. Be careful when transplanting, as any damage will show up as poor growth and delayed fruiting.
1. Plant the seedlings up to their first true leaves.
Planting Early: It is possible to set them out earlier, if the soil is warmed by black plastic mulch or cloches and they are protected by cloches.
Warm, Hot: Eggplant needs a warm, sunny spot, sheltered from cold winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Eggplants is a tropical plant and needs warm soil for germination, a minimum of 60 degrees F.
Spacing: 20-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft
Beds: Put transplants 18˝ apart in the intensive beds.
Rows: Space them 18-24˝ apart in the rows, with 24-36˝ between the rows.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Eggplant needs a warm, sunny spot, sheltered from cold winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Eggplants is a tropical plant and needs warm soil for germination, a minimum of 60 degrees F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seeds 1/4" deep in cool soil, 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 20-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft.
Beds: Put transplants 18˝ apart in the intensive beds.
Rows: Space them 18-24˝ apart in the rows, with 24-36˝ between the rows.
Spring Crop: 6-8 weeks after last frost date. If you have a very long growing season you can start the seed outdoors. Eggplant seed is one the most temperamental of all the common crops. Even at the optimal temperature of 86˚ F you should only expect about 60% of seeds to actually germinate. Soaking the seed overnight may hasten germination.
Support: True. Although it is not absolutely necessary, it is a good idea to provide some support for Eggplants, as they can grow quite leggy and become heavy with fruit late in the season. Many gardeners prefer to simply use a stake to bolster each plant. You can also use tomato cages.
Crop Care:
To produce well, Eggplant needs good soil, abundant moisture and warmth.
Water Needs: Moderate. The plants are fairly drought tolerant, but need moist soil for maximum fruit production.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. They like nitrogen and moderate amounts of phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week The plants are fairly drought tolerant, but need moist soil for maximum fruit production. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Eggplants are quite shallow rooted, so don’t use a hoe around them. Weed carefully by hand instead.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 quart(s), after transplanting, every 3 weeks. Once the seedlings have started growing well, give them a dose of compost tea or liquid kelp (they especially need nitrogen and potassium). Repeat this every month for maximum production.
Harvesting:
Ripening: The fruits are harvested just as they reach full size, while their skin is still shiny. If the skin has turned dull and the seeds are brown it is too old.
When to pick eggplants: A member of the nightshade family and a relative of tomatoes, the appearance of the skin can direct you to picking an eggplant. Skin should be glossy and thin. Eggplant harvest may begin when the fruits are developed and small, but growing fruits to full size before harvesting eggplants results in more fruit for usage. Harvesting eggplants should occur when the inner flesh is cream colored, fruits are firm and before seeds are visible. Learning when to harvest eggplants may require cutting into the fruit to check the color of the flesh and the size of the seeds. Skin color and size of the fruit will also determine when the eggplant harvest should begin. When you’ve learned how to harvest an eggplant, less cutting into the fruit is necessary. You’ll be able to determine when to begin the eggplant harvest by just looking at the fruit.
Picking an eggplant: Once you’ve determined that it’s time to start the eggplant harvest, wear gloves and long sleeves, as the eggplant stem has prickles, which can irritate the skin. When harvesting eggplants, treat the fruit gently, as it bruises easily. Harvesting eggplants includes cutting a short piece of stem above the calyx (cap) attached to the top of the fruit. Use pruners or a sharp knife. Harvesting eggplants at their prime may take several days to a few weeks in succession, and frequent eggplant harvest promotes heavier yield of the fruit
Storage:
Eggplant should be treated like a Tomato and stored at room temperature, rather than in the fridge. The fruit will keep for a couple of weeks in a cool place, but no longer.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
The plants are generally self-pollinated, but some cross pollination by insects also occurs. To keep a variety pure only one variety should be grown at one time, or it should be isolated by at least 50 feet. To ensure genetic variability, you should save the seed from at least 6 plants.
To get ripe seed, you need to let a fruit ripen completely. Separate the seed from the fruit by grating the seed bearing flesh and then mashing it in water. The seeds is then dried for storage. Eggplant seed is quite long lived if stored properly and may last for ten years.
Seed Viability in Years: 6-10 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Fine creamy flesh that holds together well with a tender mild flavor.
Culinary Use: Eggplant can be sautéed, grilled, stuffed, baked and fried. Eggplant absorbs a lot of oil which makes grilling or baking the preferred method of cooking. Stuffing with vegetables and or meat can be a meal in itself. Simple grilled summer vegetables such as eggplant, zucchini, red peppers dressed with a little rosemary, olive oil and balsamic is a wonderful blend of Mediterranean flavors. Steamed and pureed eggplant is a great tomato paste substitute (really!).
Fruit: raw or cooked. The fruit should not be eaten raw. It can be baked, stewed or added to soups, curries etc. The fruit is said to be very nutritious. It is a good source of vitamin C and potassium. The fruit can be up to nearly 8" long in cultivated plants.
Leaves: mixed with rice bran and salt in which "Daikon" (a form of radish ) roots have been pickled.
Known hazards: All green parts of the plant are poisonous.
Medicinal:
The aubergine is used mainly as a food crop, but it does also have various medicinal uses that make it a valuable addition to the diet. In particular the fruit helps to lower blood cholesterol levels and is suitable as part of a diet to help regulate high blood pressure. The fruit is anti hemorrhoid and hypotensive. It is also used as an antidote to poisonous mushrooms. It is bruised with vinegar and used as a poultice for cracked nipples, abscesses and hemorrhoids. The leaves are narcotic. A decoction is applied to discharging sores and internal hemorrhages. A soothing and emollient poultice for the treatment of burns, abscesses, cold sores and similar conditions can be made from the leaves. Aubergine leaves are toxic and should only be used externally. The ashes of the peduncle are used in the treatment of intestinal hemorrhages, piles and toothache. A decoction of the root is astringent.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with amaranth, bush beans, pole beans, peas, spinach, tarragon, thyme and marigold. Growing eggplants among bush beans protects from attacks of the Colorado potato beetle. Eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and does well with peppers as they like the same growing conditions
Problems:
Subject to problems similar to other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be problems.
Gourd
How to Grow Gourd
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 8 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter).
Germinate:
1 weeks before Last Frost Date: Gourd is usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil. Cucurbits in general dislike transplanting, so start them in individual containers. I like to use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. If containers are smaller than this you may have to pot them up before planting out, which is an additional chore. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after Last Frost Date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks after Last Frost Date: It’s important to plant the seedlings out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them as deep as their first true leaves. If cold weather threatens to return, you can cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Spacing: 36.0", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Plant 4 seedlings per mound or hill, spaced 3' apart. Thin to best 2 - 3 seedlings per mound.
Intensive beds: Gourds grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24" apart. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. This plant is an excellent contender for vertical gardening.
Because gourds spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors. The vining types can then wander off into vacant space.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil
Spacing: 36.0", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Plant 4 seedlings per mound or hill, spaced 3' apart. Thin to best 2 - 3 seedlings per mound.
Intensive beds: Gourds grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24" apart. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. This plant is an excellent contender for vertical gardening.
Because gourds spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors. The vining types can then wander off into vacant space.
Summer Crop:
3-12 weeks after Last Frost Date: In hot weather the large seeds germinate and grow quickly and soon produce vigorous young plants. Because of this there is little point in going to all of the work of starting them inside.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Crop Care:
Gourd is a vigorous plant and needs little care once established (unless you have insect problems). Often the main problem is keeping it from crowding other plants (give it plenty of space).
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Gourd is with soaker hose, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Gourd is a hungry and fast growing crop and needs a steady supply of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 3 quarts, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart(s), regularly, every 3 weeks. Give each plant 1 quart of liquid feed of compost tea every 2 - 4 weeks.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2 inch(es), when 3" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallons per plant, during fruit production, 2 times a week. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times, but particularly when the plants are bearing fruit. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest when gourd turns pale, gently cutting the stem. Carefully rinse in a 9:1 bleach solution and hang in a warm, dry location until the seeds rattle, usually 3-4 weeks.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-28 days after maturity
When: Harvest when the stem is brown and dry.
How: Cut the gourd from the stem with a sharp knife. Carefully rinse in a 9:1 bleach solution and hang in a warm, dry location until the seeds rattle, usually 3-4 weeks.
Storage:
The fruits are best used fairly promptly. They will keep in good condition in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, but by that time you will have many more new ones, so it's best to get rid of them quickly.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Seed Saving:
Save seeds by opening a fully mature gourd and separating the seeds from the pulp. Let seeds dry on a cloth or screen and store in a well-ventilated, cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Unknown.
Culinary Use:
Gourds are mainly used for decorative purposes, but some can be eaten.
Immature fruit: cooked and used as a vegetable. They can be boiled, steamed, fried, used in curries or made into fritters. Of variable quality, but some of the selected cultivars from India and China are of very good quality, equivalent to good summer squashes. The pulp around the seed is purgative and should not be eaten. The fruit can be dried for later use. Leaves and young shoots - cooked and used as a potherb.
Seed: cooked. Rich in oil, it is added to soups etc. A vegetable curd, similar to tofu, can be made from the seed. An edible oil is obtained from the seed. It is used for cooking. Yields of up to 45% have been obtained.
Medicinal:
The pulp around the seed is emetic and purgative. A poultice of the crushed leaves has been applied to the head to treat headaches. The flowers are an antidote to poison. The stem bark and the rind of the fruit are diuretic. The fruit is anti-lithic, diuretic, emetic and refrigerant. The juice of the fruit is used in the treatment of stomach acidity, indigestion and ulcers. The seed is vermifuge. A poultice of the boiled seeds has been used in the treatment of boils. Taken with Achyranthes spp the seed is used to treat aching teeth and gums, boils etc. Extracts of the plant have shown antibiotic activity. In many parts of China 3 grams per day of this species (the report does not say what part of the plant) has been used as a single treatment for diabetes mellitus.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Broccoli
Companions: Radish will help drive off beetles. Catnip deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants, weevils and mice. Dill attracts hover flies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree.
Nasturtiums deter aphids, squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles. Deters wooly aphids, white flies, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. French Marigolds keeps soil free of nematodes and deters many insects. Attracts red spider mite and slugs.
Enemies: Keep away from Nightshade.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include aphids, cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and cutworms. Potential disease problems include anthracnose, fusarium wilt, bacterial wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew and blights.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 8 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter).
Germinate:
1 weeks before Last Frost Date: Gourd is usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil. Cucurbits in general dislike transplanting, so start them in individual containers. I like to use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. If containers are smaller than this you may have to pot them up before planting out, which is an additional chore. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after Last Frost Date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks after Last Frost Date: It’s important to plant the seedlings out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them as deep as their first true leaves. If cold weather threatens to return, you can cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Spacing: 36.0", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Plant 4 seedlings per mound or hill, spaced 3' apart. Thin to best 2 - 3 seedlings per mound.
Intensive beds: Gourds grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24" apart. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. This plant is an excellent contender for vertical gardening.
Because gourds spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors. The vining types can then wander off into vacant space.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil
Spacing: 36.0", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Plant 4 seedlings per mound or hill, spaced 3' apart. Thin to best 2 - 3 seedlings per mound.
Intensive beds: Gourds grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24" apart. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. This plant is an excellent contender for vertical gardening.
Because gourds spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors. The vining types can then wander off into vacant space.
Summer Crop:
3-12 weeks after Last Frost Date: In hot weather the large seeds germinate and grow quickly and soon produce vigorous young plants. Because of this there is little point in going to all of the work of starting them inside.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Crop Care:
Gourd is a vigorous plant and needs little care once established (unless you have insect problems). Often the main problem is keeping it from crowding other plants (give it plenty of space).
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Gourd is with soaker hose, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Gourd is a hungry and fast growing crop and needs a steady supply of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 3 quarts, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart(s), regularly, every 3 weeks. Give each plant 1 quart of liquid feed of compost tea every 2 - 4 weeks.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2 inch(es), when 3" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallons per plant, during fruit production, 2 times a week. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times, but particularly when the plants are bearing fruit. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest when gourd turns pale, gently cutting the stem. Carefully rinse in a 9:1 bleach solution and hang in a warm, dry location until the seeds rattle, usually 3-4 weeks.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-28 days after maturity
When: Harvest when the stem is brown and dry.
How: Cut the gourd from the stem with a sharp knife. Carefully rinse in a 9:1 bleach solution and hang in a warm, dry location until the seeds rattle, usually 3-4 weeks.
Storage:
The fruits are best used fairly promptly. They will keep in good condition in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, but by that time you will have many more new ones, so it's best to get rid of them quickly.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Seed Saving:
Save seeds by opening a fully mature gourd and separating the seeds from the pulp. Let seeds dry on a cloth or screen and store in a well-ventilated, cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Unknown.
Culinary Use:
Gourds are mainly used for decorative purposes, but some can be eaten.
Immature fruit: cooked and used as a vegetable. They can be boiled, steamed, fried, used in curries or made into fritters. Of variable quality, but some of the selected cultivars from India and China are of very good quality, equivalent to good summer squashes. The pulp around the seed is purgative and should not be eaten. The fruit can be dried for later use. Leaves and young shoots - cooked and used as a potherb.
Seed: cooked. Rich in oil, it is added to soups etc. A vegetable curd, similar to tofu, can be made from the seed. An edible oil is obtained from the seed. It is used for cooking. Yields of up to 45% have been obtained.
Medicinal:
The pulp around the seed is emetic and purgative. A poultice of the crushed leaves has been applied to the head to treat headaches. The flowers are an antidote to poison. The stem bark and the rind of the fruit are diuretic. The fruit is anti-lithic, diuretic, emetic and refrigerant. The juice of the fruit is used in the treatment of stomach acidity, indigestion and ulcers. The seed is vermifuge. A poultice of the boiled seeds has been used in the treatment of boils. Taken with Achyranthes spp the seed is used to treat aching teeth and gums, boils etc. Extracts of the plant have shown antibiotic activity. In many parts of China 3 grams per day of this species (the report does not say what part of the plant) has been used as a single treatment for diabetes mellitus.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Broccoli
Companions: Radish will help drive off beetles. Catnip deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants, weevils and mice. Dill attracts hover flies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree.
Nasturtiums deter aphids, squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles. Deters wooly aphids, white flies, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. French Marigolds keeps soil free of nematodes and deters many insects. Attracts red spider mite and slugs.
Enemies: Keep away from Nightshade.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include aphids, cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and cutworms. Potential disease problems include anthracnose, fusarium wilt, bacterial wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew and blights.
Ground Cherry
How to Grow Ground Cherry
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant the seed ¼ to 1/2” deep (they like to be covered). You could pre-germinate the seeds and then plant them in cell packs or soil blocks. Transplant the seedlings when their first true leaves appear.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 80°F to 85°F, optimal 84°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Harden Off:
1 weeks after Last frost date: Before transplanting outside you must harden the seedlings off, so they become acclimated to somewhat less than ideal conditions.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after Last Frost Date: Bury most of the stem when transplanting and roots will form all along its length. If the plants are very leggy you should pinch out the lower leaves before planting.
If the weather is cool at transplanting time, you can warm up the soil with cloches or black plastic.
Cool, Warm, Hot: Ground cherries like the same conditions as Tomatoes, and enjoy lots of sun. They will not survive if there is a frost, but will survive in mild winters. The tops die off in cold temperatures, but the roots will continue growing.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 75°F. If it's warm enough for tomatoes to grow, it's warm enough for ground cherries.
Spacing: 18.0"-24.0", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. These sprawling plants can get quite large. Space 18 to 24" apart.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Generally Ground Cherries are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention.
Water Needs: Moderate. Tomatillos and Ground Cherries are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Generally, Ground Cherries are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp when the flowers first appear.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times. Ground Cherries grow best when they receive about 1" of water each week. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop, but never water to the point of sogginess. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Compost tea, foliar feeding, at flowering, every 2 weeks. When the plants set flowers, give them a good spray of compost tea. Repeat two weeks later.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Fruits ripen to a pineapple yellow
Storage:
Store Ground Cherries like you do Tomatillos, on the counter for a couple of weeks.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
You can water bath can ground cherries when making salsa or jam.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Ground Cherries are some of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any Ground Cherry so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid.
To get the seed, simply squeeze the pulp from the ripe fruit and mix with water. Allow to settle, and the seeds will sink to the bottom. Drain out excess water and pulp and allow seeds to dry. Store in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Small berries taste like pineapple.
Culinary Use:
The Ground Cherry is most often used in jams and other sauces, but can be eaten raw or in a salad, or dried and eaten like raisins.
Companion Planting:
Marigolds and nasturtiums to attract pollinating bees. Basil, mint, chives, sage, parsley, garlic to repel insect pests. Capsicums, carrots, onions and brassica's grow well next to ground cherry.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant the seed ¼ to 1/2” deep (they like to be covered). You could pre-germinate the seeds and then plant them in cell packs or soil blocks. Transplant the seedlings when their first true leaves appear.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 80°F to 85°F, optimal 84°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Harden Off:
1 weeks after Last frost date: Before transplanting outside you must harden the seedlings off, so they become acclimated to somewhat less than ideal conditions.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after Last Frost Date: Bury most of the stem when transplanting and roots will form all along its length. If the plants are very leggy you should pinch out the lower leaves before planting.
If the weather is cool at transplanting time, you can warm up the soil with cloches or black plastic.
Cool, Warm, Hot: Ground cherries like the same conditions as Tomatoes, and enjoy lots of sun. They will not survive if there is a frost, but will survive in mild winters. The tops die off in cold temperatures, but the roots will continue growing.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 75°F. If it's warm enough for tomatoes to grow, it's warm enough for ground cherries.
Spacing: 18.0"-24.0", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. These sprawling plants can get quite large. Space 18 to 24" apart.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Generally Ground Cherries are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention.
Water Needs: Moderate. Tomatillos and Ground Cherries are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Generally, Ground Cherries are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp when the flowers first appear.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times. Ground Cherries grow best when they receive about 1" of water each week. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop, but never water to the point of sogginess. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Compost tea, foliar feeding, at flowering, every 2 weeks. When the plants set flowers, give them a good spray of compost tea. Repeat two weeks later.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Fruits ripen to a pineapple yellow
Storage:
Store Ground Cherries like you do Tomatillos, on the counter for a couple of weeks.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
You can water bath can ground cherries when making salsa or jam.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Ground Cherries are some of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any Ground Cherry so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid.
To get the seed, simply squeeze the pulp from the ripe fruit and mix with water. Allow to settle, and the seeds will sink to the bottom. Drain out excess water and pulp and allow seeds to dry. Store in a cool, dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Small berries taste like pineapple.
Culinary Use:
The Ground Cherry is most often used in jams and other sauces, but can be eaten raw or in a salad, or dried and eaten like raisins.
Companion Planting:
Marigolds and nasturtiums to attract pollinating bees. Basil, mint, chives, sage, parsley, garlic to repel insect pests. Capsicums, carrots, onions and brassica's grow well next to ground cherry.
Kale
How to Grow Kale
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Kale seed should be planted 1/4" in cold soil to 1/2" deep in warmer soil. It germinates and grows fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 100°F, optimal 60°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 12 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 14 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
5 weeks before last frost date: Kale is often started indoors for planting out in early spring and harvesting in early summer. Transplants may also be used where insects or other pests are a problem. Kale doesn’t mind transplanting so can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
1. Plant seeds 1/2" deep.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Kale is often started indoors for planting out in later summer and harvesting through the fall. In areas with mild winters Kale can be overwintered. Transplants may also be used where insects or other pests are a problem. Kale doesn’t mind transplanting so can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
1. Plant seeds 1/2" deep and keep moist.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Harden off your plants by exposing them to lower temperatures for 1 to 2 weeks depending on your conditions. You want to insure the plant is hardy enough to adjust to the cooler soil conditions. This is often done by leaving plants outside when it is colder for a longer amount of time each day.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Give starts a good watering after transplanting.
10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Give starts a good watering after transplanting.
Cold, Cool, Warm: This variety grows well in both heat and cold. In mild climates it will continue growing right through the winter.
When outdoor temp: 0°F to 80°F, optimal temp 40°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Kale plants can get quite big, so give them plenty of room: 12" to 18" apart.
12" apart in excellent soil
15" apart in good soil
18" apart in poor soil
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: This variety grows well in both heat and cold. In mild climates it will continue growing right through the winter.
When outdoor temp: 0°F to 80°F, optimal temp 40°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Kale seed should be planted 1/4" in cold soil to 1/2" deep in warmer soil. It germinates and grows fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Kale plants can get quite big, so give them plenty of room: 12" to 18" apart.
12" apart in excellent soil
15" apart in good soil
18" apart in poor soil
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Kale can be planted in spring for harvesting in early summer.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart. Keep seeds moist during germination.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Kale germinates fast and grows quickly, so it is easily direct sown, if pests aren't a problem. If pests are a problem, protect your seedlings with a row cover, or start indoors.
Kale is most useful as a fall and winter crop. It is planted in midsummer, at least 2 to 3 months before the first fall frost date. The plants need to be fairly big by the time of the first frost, so they are vigorous enough to keep growing.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart. Keep seeds moist during germination.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Kale is the easiest of the Brassica family to grow (as well as one of the most nutritious and productive) and is extremely productive for the work it requires.
Water Needs: Moderate. Kale must have plenty of water for maximum productivity and best quality.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Kale has similar nutritional requirements as cabbage, in that it needs a significant amount of phosphorus and potassium but not a lot of nitrogen. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 gallons per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Kale has large leaves and can lose a lot of water in warm weather. Keep the plants well supplied with water for maximum production and best quality. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Kale is pretty independent once established, so you only really need worry about weeds while it is young.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, 1 month. Feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, starting as soon as they have recovered from transplanting and every month thereafter. This is especially important if you are harvesting regularly.
Thinning, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Start harvest thinnings when all the seedlings have emerged, and gradually thin them to the recommended spacing (check your variety for this spacing).
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to cool soil, 1 time. Use a mulch in summer to suppress weeds, keep the soil cool and conserve soil moisture.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Kale leaves are at their best during cold weather. This is because cold weather stimulates the conversion of starches in the leaves into sugars (a similar thing happens in Jerusalem Artichokes and parsnips). A few nights of freezing temperatures are enough to make this happen. The cold also makes the leaves more tender.
When and How:
Flower, -182 days after maturity:
When: When Kale bolts in spring, the flower buds can (and should) be gathered and used like Broccoli. If they are not infested with aphids they are a nutritious and tasty treat that is not to be missed.
How: Harvest the flower buds by cutting them at the base of the stalk.
Cut & Come Again, 1-180 days after maturity:
When: Kale produces an abundance of foliage right through the growing season, but it is at its best during cold weather. This is because cold weather stimulates the conversion of starches in the leaves into sugars (a similar thing happens in Jerusalem Artichokes and Parsnips). A few nights of freezing temperatures are enough to make this happen. The cold also makes the leaves more tender. You can gather Kale leaves for as long as they are produced, sometimes right through the winter. Collect young leaves anytime. Clip oldest leaves when less than 12" long for tender leaves and best flavor.
How: For a longer and bigger harvest it is best to gather single leaves as they get large enough. Don’t take them from the growing point and only take 1 or 2 leaves from a plant at one time. You may be able to stimulate an old plant to put out tender new growth by stripping off all of its leaves.
Storage:
The leaves can be frozen for up to 6 months.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 0-180 days
Kale can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge up to 10 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
Seed Saving:
Plants overwintered in the ground will flower the following spring, which gives you a good opportunity to save seed. Kale is usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. It will cross-pollinate with any other Brassica crop (broccoli, brussels sprout, cabbage, collards), so only one variety should be flowering at one time.
The plants usually produce an abundance of seed and can sometimes get so top heavy they need staking to stop them falling over. The seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods begin to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the entire seed pod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag, so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
If you save kale seed (and you should) you will end up with a lot, especially as you should save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic variability. This is far more than you will ever need for planting, but you can sprout some of it like alfalfa, or use it to grow micro-greens.
Seed Viability in Years: 4-6 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Exceptionally rich, deep, hardy flavor, best to pick leaves young for tenderness.
Culinary Use: Kale is a versatile green leafy vegetable that can be prepared in soups, pastas, steamed, sauteed or made into chips. It goes well with other vegetables, is complimented by garlic or onions, and makes an excellent side dish to serve with fish or meat.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Some companion gardeners are convinced that aromatic herbs, such as dill, mint, sage, and rosemary, improve the flavor of kale and other cabbage family members.
Companions: Plant with late cabbage or potatoes. Use ornamental types to accent flower or vegetable plantings.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe grapes fail to thrive when planted near kale; others volunteer strawberries and tomatoes as unsuitable companions.
Problems:
Watch for cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Potential disease problems include leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Kale seed should be planted 1/4" in cold soil to 1/2" deep in warmer soil. It germinates and grows fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 100°F, optimal 60°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 12 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 14 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
5 weeks before last frost date: Kale is often started indoors for planting out in early spring and harvesting in early summer. Transplants may also be used where insects or other pests are a problem. Kale doesn’t mind transplanting so can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
1. Plant seeds 1/2" deep.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Kale is often started indoors for planting out in later summer and harvesting through the fall. In areas with mild winters Kale can be overwintered. Transplants may also be used where insects or other pests are a problem. Kale doesn’t mind transplanting so can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
1. Plant seeds 1/2" deep and keep moist.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Harden off your plants by exposing them to lower temperatures for 1 to 2 weeks depending on your conditions. You want to insure the plant is hardy enough to adjust to the cooler soil conditions. This is often done by leaving plants outside when it is colder for a longer amount of time each day.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-2 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Give starts a good watering after transplanting.
10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Give starts a good watering after transplanting.
Cold, Cool, Warm: This variety grows well in both heat and cold. In mild climates it will continue growing right through the winter.
When outdoor temp: 0°F to 80°F, optimal temp 40°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Kale plants can get quite big, so give them plenty of room: 12" to 18" apart.
12" apart in excellent soil
15" apart in good soil
18" apart in poor soil
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: This variety grows well in both heat and cold. In mild climates it will continue growing right through the winter.
When outdoor temp: 0°F to 80°F, optimal temp 40°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Kale seed should be planted 1/4" in cold soil to 1/2" deep in warmer soil. It germinates and grows fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Kale plants can get quite big, so give them plenty of room: 12" to 18" apart.
12" apart in excellent soil
15" apart in good soil
18" apart in poor soil
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Kale can be planted in spring for harvesting in early summer.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart. Keep seeds moist during germination.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Kale germinates fast and grows quickly, so it is easily direct sown, if pests aren't a problem. If pests are a problem, protect your seedlings with a row cover, or start indoors.
Kale is most useful as a fall and winter crop. It is planted in midsummer, at least 2 to 3 months before the first fall frost date. The plants need to be fairly big by the time of the first frost, so they are vigorous enough to keep growing.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart. Keep seeds moist during germination.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Kale is the easiest of the Brassica family to grow (as well as one of the most nutritious and productive) and is extremely productive for the work it requires.
Water Needs: Moderate. Kale must have plenty of water for maximum productivity and best quality.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Kale has similar nutritional requirements as cabbage, in that it needs a significant amount of phosphorus and potassium but not a lot of nitrogen. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 gallons per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Kale has large leaves and can lose a lot of water in warm weather. Keep the plants well supplied with water for maximum production and best quality. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Kale is pretty independent once established, so you only really need worry about weeds while it is young.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, 1 month. Feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, starting as soon as they have recovered from transplanting and every month thereafter. This is especially important if you are harvesting regularly.
Thinning, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Start harvest thinnings when all the seedlings have emerged, and gradually thin them to the recommended spacing (check your variety for this spacing).
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to cool soil, 1 time. Use a mulch in summer to suppress weeds, keep the soil cool and conserve soil moisture.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Kale leaves are at their best during cold weather. This is because cold weather stimulates the conversion of starches in the leaves into sugars (a similar thing happens in Jerusalem Artichokes and parsnips). A few nights of freezing temperatures are enough to make this happen. The cold also makes the leaves more tender.
When and How:
Flower, -182 days after maturity:
When: When Kale bolts in spring, the flower buds can (and should) be gathered and used like Broccoli. If they are not infested with aphids they are a nutritious and tasty treat that is not to be missed.
How: Harvest the flower buds by cutting them at the base of the stalk.
Cut & Come Again, 1-180 days after maturity:
When: Kale produces an abundance of foliage right through the growing season, but it is at its best during cold weather. This is because cold weather stimulates the conversion of starches in the leaves into sugars (a similar thing happens in Jerusalem Artichokes and Parsnips). A few nights of freezing temperatures are enough to make this happen. The cold also makes the leaves more tender. You can gather Kale leaves for as long as they are produced, sometimes right through the winter. Collect young leaves anytime. Clip oldest leaves when less than 12" long for tender leaves and best flavor.
How: For a longer and bigger harvest it is best to gather single leaves as they get large enough. Don’t take them from the growing point and only take 1 or 2 leaves from a plant at one time. You may be able to stimulate an old plant to put out tender new growth by stripping off all of its leaves.
Storage:
The leaves can be frozen for up to 6 months.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 0-180 days
Kale can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge up to 10 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
Seed Saving:
Plants overwintered in the ground will flower the following spring, which gives you a good opportunity to save seed. Kale is usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. It will cross-pollinate with any other Brassica crop (broccoli, brussels sprout, cabbage, collards), so only one variety should be flowering at one time.
The plants usually produce an abundance of seed and can sometimes get so top heavy they need staking to stop them falling over. The seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods begin to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the entire seed pod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag, so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
If you save kale seed (and you should) you will end up with a lot, especially as you should save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic variability. This is far more than you will ever need for planting, but you can sprout some of it like alfalfa, or use it to grow micro-greens.
Seed Viability in Years: 4-6 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Exceptionally rich, deep, hardy flavor, best to pick leaves young for tenderness.
Culinary Use: Kale is a versatile green leafy vegetable that can be prepared in soups, pastas, steamed, sauteed or made into chips. It goes well with other vegetables, is complimented by garlic or onions, and makes an excellent side dish to serve with fish or meat.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Some companion gardeners are convinced that aromatic herbs, such as dill, mint, sage, and rosemary, improve the flavor of kale and other cabbage family members.
Companions: Plant with late cabbage or potatoes. Use ornamental types to accent flower or vegetable plantings.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe grapes fail to thrive when planted near kale; others volunteer strawberries and tomatoes as unsuitable companions.
Problems:
Watch for cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Potential disease problems include leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.
Kohlrabi
How to Grow Kohlrabi
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow 1/4" in cold soil, 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 75°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 9 (Spring/Summer), 9 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 4-5 weeks before last frost date.
When: Start seeds 4 to 5 weeks before expected last frost.
How: Sow seeds 1/2" deep and 1" apart in containers indoors. Keep evenly moist and provide a strong light source for seedlings until planting out.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-1 weeks after last frost date:
When: Transplant Kohlrabi outside when the ground can be worked and seedlings are 3" tall.
How: Transplant seedlings out of their pots into the garden. Space seedlings 6" apart. Water thoroughly after transplanting.
Cold, Cool: Kohlrabi needs full sun, and should not be planted where another Brassica has grown in the previous three years, as it can lead to disease and pest problems. Kohlrabi generally does better as a fall crop, sown 6 to 8 weeks before the first autumn frost date. Autumn Kohlrabi bulbs can be allowed to get larger than 2" to 3", because cold weather seems to keep them tender (it also increases their sweetness).
For spring planting, sow the first crop 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. You can make several succession sowings (very early sowings may be vernalized and bolt).
In cool climates, you can continue to succession sow all summer.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F
Spacing: 6"-8", 4 plants per sq ft. You should plant kohlrabi in offset rows across the bed. Space it 6 - 8" apart, depending on the fertility of the soil. Make sure the plants aren't crowded, or they won't size up properly.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Kohlrabi must grow fast for the best quality, so give the plants all the water and nutrients they need.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist or the bulbous stems may turn woody. Fortunately this isn't often an issue with this cool weather crop.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorous. It's a light feeding crop and doesn't need a lot of nitrogen, but it does like potassium (add greens and or wood ashes). It also likes calcium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. The plants have the greatest need for water when their bulbs are forming, so make sure you keep the soil moist at this time. Keep the soil evenly moist or the bulbous stems may turn woody. This should not be a issue with this cool weather crop. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. It is best to control weeds by hand weeding, as hoeing can easily damage the shallow roots and swollen stems. A mulch will also help.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time a month. If the soil isn’t very fertile, you should give the plants a liquid feed of compost tea once a month. A liquid feed of compost tea is helpful in early spring, while the soil is cool and nitrogen is not readily available.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
The edible portion of kohlrabi is not the root, but rather the round, swollen stem of the plant. Leaves are also edible. Harvest when stem swells to 3-5" and is easily visible above the soil.
When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-42 days after maturity
When: Start harvesting the bulbous stems when they are 1½˝ to 2˝ in diameter, as they are most tender at this stage. You can eat the larger 3˝ diameter roots, but in warm weather they often develop a woody core and their flavor deteriorates. In winter even the larger bulbs can be good.
How: Cut the stem an inch below the bulb, or simply uproot the entire plant if they aren’t growing too close together (don’t disturb neighboring plants). For storage you should cut off the leaves and roots. Kohlrabi stores very well and will keep for several weeks in the fridge in a plastic bag. It may last for several months in a root cellar at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity. It also freezes well.
Storage:
Kohlrabi will keep for several weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
Like Cabbage, Kohlrabi is a biennial and takes two years to produce seed. Don't save seed from plants that flower in their first year, as you don't want to raise an annual strain that bolts quickly. Most Brassicas are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination).
In very cold climates you may have to lift the plants in fall and store them in a root cellar over the winter. Re-plant them in spring when it warms up.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Mild and sweet, similar to broccoli.
Culinary Use:
Kohlrabi can be eaten peeled and sliced thin for a healthy low calorie snack, shredded and used in a slaw, or chopped, steamed or sauteed.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Companion gardeners say that kohlrabi – like its relatives in the cabbage family – grows particularly well when planted near onions, beets, cucumbers, and aromatic plants such as dill, mint, and sage.
Companions: In fertile soil. Interplant kohlrabi with other members of the cabbage family, such as broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, which share its heavy feeding habits.
Enemies: Companion gardening lore suggests that kohlrabi may fail to thrive when planted with strawberries tomatoes, or pole beans.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbageworms, cutworms and flea beetles. Potential disease problems include downy mildew and bacterial/soft rot.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow 1/4" in cold soil, 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 75°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 9 (Spring/Summer), 9 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 4-5 weeks before last frost date.
When: Start seeds 4 to 5 weeks before expected last frost.
How: Sow seeds 1/2" deep and 1" apart in containers indoors. Keep evenly moist and provide a strong light source for seedlings until planting out.
Transplant Outdoors:
0-1 weeks after last frost date:
When: Transplant Kohlrabi outside when the ground can be worked and seedlings are 3" tall.
How: Transplant seedlings out of their pots into the garden. Space seedlings 6" apart. Water thoroughly after transplanting.
Cold, Cool: Kohlrabi needs full sun, and should not be planted where another Brassica has grown in the previous three years, as it can lead to disease and pest problems. Kohlrabi generally does better as a fall crop, sown 6 to 8 weeks before the first autumn frost date. Autumn Kohlrabi bulbs can be allowed to get larger than 2" to 3", because cold weather seems to keep them tender (it also increases their sweetness).
For spring planting, sow the first crop 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. You can make several succession sowings (very early sowings may be vernalized and bolt).
In cool climates, you can continue to succession sow all summer.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F
Spacing: 6"-8", 4 plants per sq ft. You should plant kohlrabi in offset rows across the bed. Space it 6 - 8" apart, depending on the fertility of the soil. Make sure the plants aren't crowded, or they won't size up properly.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Kohlrabi must grow fast for the best quality, so give the plants all the water and nutrients they need.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist or the bulbous stems may turn woody. Fortunately this isn't often an issue with this cool weather crop.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorous. It's a light feeding crop and doesn't need a lot of nitrogen, but it does like potassium (add greens and or wood ashes). It also likes calcium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. The plants have the greatest need for water when their bulbs are forming, so make sure you keep the soil moist at this time. Keep the soil evenly moist or the bulbous stems may turn woody. This should not be a issue with this cool weather crop. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. It is best to control weeds by hand weeding, as hoeing can easily damage the shallow roots and swollen stems. A mulch will also help.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time a month. If the soil isn’t very fertile, you should give the plants a liquid feed of compost tea once a month. A liquid feed of compost tea is helpful in early spring, while the soil is cool and nitrogen is not readily available.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
The edible portion of kohlrabi is not the root, but rather the round, swollen stem of the plant. Leaves are also edible. Harvest when stem swells to 3-5" and is easily visible above the soil.
When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-42 days after maturity
When: Start harvesting the bulbous stems when they are 1½˝ to 2˝ in diameter, as they are most tender at this stage. You can eat the larger 3˝ diameter roots, but in warm weather they often develop a woody core and their flavor deteriorates. In winter even the larger bulbs can be good.
How: Cut the stem an inch below the bulb, or simply uproot the entire plant if they aren’t growing too close together (don’t disturb neighboring plants). For storage you should cut off the leaves and roots. Kohlrabi stores very well and will keep for several weeks in the fridge in a plastic bag. It may last for several months in a root cellar at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity. It also freezes well.
Storage:
Kohlrabi will keep for several weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
Like Cabbage, Kohlrabi is a biennial and takes two years to produce seed. Don't save seed from plants that flower in their first year, as you don't want to raise an annual strain that bolts quickly. Most Brassicas are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination).
In very cold climates you may have to lift the plants in fall and store them in a root cellar over the winter. Re-plant them in spring when it warms up.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Mild and sweet, similar to broccoli.
Culinary Use:
Kohlrabi can be eaten peeled and sliced thin for a healthy low calorie snack, shredded and used in a slaw, or chopped, steamed or sauteed.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Companion gardeners say that kohlrabi – like its relatives in the cabbage family – grows particularly well when planted near onions, beets, cucumbers, and aromatic plants such as dill, mint, and sage.
Companions: In fertile soil. Interplant kohlrabi with other members of the cabbage family, such as broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, which share its heavy feeding habits.
Enemies: Companion gardening lore suggests that kohlrabi may fail to thrive when planted with strawberries tomatoes, or pole beans.
Problems:
Potential insect problems include aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbageworms, cutworms and flea beetles. Potential disease problems include downy mildew and bacterial/soft rot.
Leeks
How to Grow Leeks
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil, 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 (Spring/Summer), 13 to 14 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 16-20 weeks before first frost date.
Winter: In areas with mild winter, Leeks are best grown as an over-wintering crop. They are started in early summer.
Leeks transplant easily so are usually started in flats. They don’t have much foliage so can be planted quite close together and you can get a lot of plants in one flat. The seeds germinate and grow slowly, so start them early, water regularly, feed occasionally and be patient.
1. Sow seeds about 1" apart and 1/8" deep in the flat.
Transplant Outdoors:
8-10 weeks before first frost date: The plants should be planted out when they are about 8˝ tall. Some people advise trimming the tops and roots, but it probably isn't a good idea.
Dibber: The simplest way to plant Leek seedlings is with a dibber. In fact a desire to plant a lot of Leeks is a sufficient reason to get (or make) a dibber.
1. Mark out the required 4˝ to 6˝ hole depth (depending on size of plants) on the side of the dibber, so you know how deep to go.
2. Then, simply punch a series of holes in the soil, and drop a plant into each hole
3. Water the plants by putting a trickle of water in each hole. There is no need to fill the hole with soil, enough soil will wash down into the bottom of the hole to cover the roots. It couldn’t be easier, or quicker.
Trench: You can also transplant the seedlings into a 6˝ to 8˝ deep trench, but it’s a lot more work. Dig the trench, lay the plants in it at the right spacing and then plant them almost up to the growing point. The trench is re-filled slowly to blanch the stems and provide a greater length of the most desirable white stem. If you fill the trench all at once, there is some danger that the stem may rot.
Rows: Leeks can also be planted in a row on level ground. They are then hilled up as they grow, to blanch the lower stems.
Cold, Cool, Warm: In areas with hot summers and mild winters, leeks do best as an overwintering crop. This should be started in early summer (indoors or out).
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 55°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Leek seed germinates fairly well in cold soil.
Spacing: 3.0"-6.0", 4 plants per sq ft. The spacing for leeks ranges from 3-6" depending upon the fertility of the soil. They are usually planted in offset rows across the bed, so it's possible to hoe between the beds for weeding. To get the highest yield of large plants, space them 6" apart (for giant plants space them 9" apart). You could initially plant leeks closer together and thin as they get bigger. You can eat the thinnings or transplant them.
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Leeks need looking after carefully, because they grow slowly and don't have a lot of foliage. They do not form bulbs the way onions do but instead develop thick cylindrical stalks.
Water Needs: Moderate. Leeks grow best in moist soil. Give the plants constant moisture and apply a mulch.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Moderate nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Leeks aren't a very hungry plant.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the soil moist with regular watering. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. The lack of foliage makes young leeks very vulnerable to competition from weeds. It is very important to keep them well weeded, so they don’t get overwhelmed. Leeks are quite shallow rooted, so be careful if weeding with a hoe (it’s safer to hand weed).
Protecting, while danger of frost: Mulch, 4 inches, while danger of frost, 1 time. Mulch is essential in areas where winter temperatures drop below 10˚ Fahrenheit. It not only protects the plants from cold, but also stabilizes the soil temperature. This prevents frost heaving, which can damage the roots. It’s best to apply a mulch while the soil is still warm, to hold in the heat.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Compost tea, 3 gallons per 100 sq. ft., when 3in tall, 1 time. Leeks are often in the soil when it’s cold and many nutrients aren’t easily available. Give them a feed of diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) as soon as they are well established.
Side Dressing, when 12" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., when 12in tall, every 4 weeks. Feed them with compost tea again when they are about a foot tall and then every 4 weeks after that. You could also use liquid kelp or fish emulsion instead (apply as directed).
Thinning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time a week During the growing season thin Leeks to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Leeks. Thinning Leeks, before they reach full size, is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Harvest by thinning alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Side Dressing, before harvest: Soil, 4 inches, before harvest, 1 time. Blanching: Leeks are often blanched to get a longer area of white stem, as this is considered superior to the green part. Blanching is usually done with soil, either by hilling up the stems (to just below where the leaves start), or filling up the trench they are growing in. Some gardeners wrap corrugated cardboard collars around the plants before blanching to prevent soil getting lodged between the leaves (no one likes gritty Leeks). You can also blanch the stems with a deep mulch (4"), which has the advantage of not being gritty.
Side Dressing, to conserve moisture: Mulch, 2 inches, to conserve moisture, 1 time. Leeks don’t cast much shade, so they are vulnerable to weeds and the soil is prone to drying out in sunny weather. A layer of mulch helps the soil retain moisture, keeps down weeds and is a source of nutrients for the soil.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Leeks can be harvested as soon as they reach sufficient size (about 3/4" diameter), their flavor and texture is almost always good (even when they get big).
Storage:
Leeks are so hardy they are usually stored in the ground and harvested as needed (cover with mulch in cold climates). The outer skin may turn somewhat slimy in very cold weather, but the interior should be fine.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store leeks for several weeks in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days
In very cold climates you can store Leeks in a root cellar at 32 to 40˚ F. Trim off the excess tops and roots and plant them in a box of damp sand.
Storage Req: Cold, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-60 days
Seed Saving:
Leeks are biennial and will produce their spectacular flowers in their second spring. It's easy to save Leek seed, simply leave the best plants in the ground instead of eating them. Save the seed from at least 12 plants to ensure enough genetic variation.
Leeks are cross-pollinated by insects, so should be isolated by one mile from any other varieties (fortunately there are not likely to be any others nearby). These will produce seed in early summer.
If you need the space for another crop, you can dig the seed leeks from their bed in early spring and move them to a convenient location.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Hardy, wonderful flavor, ideal for soups and stews.
Culinary Use:
Leeks can be used in place of onions, they are of the same family. Make sure they are thoroughly washed and all dirt is removed from between the layers. Leeks are especially good when braised with other vegetables, fish and meats. When they are young they can be grilled or steamed to make a terrine. Leek and potato soup is commonly featured on menus in the winter.
The leaves and long white blanched stem are eaten cooked. They can also be cut into thin slices and be added to salads. A mild onion flavor with a delightful sweetness.
Bulb: raw or cooked. The bulb is produced in the plants second year of growth (that is, after it is normally harvested). The bulb is somewhat larger if the plant is prevented from flowering.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads, though they are rather on the dry side and less pleasant than many other members of the genus.
Medicinal:
This species has the same medicinal virtues as garlic, but in a much milder and less effective form. These virtues are as follows:- Garlic has a very long folk history of use in a wide range of ailments, particularly ailments such as ringworm, Candida and vaginitis where its fungicidal, antiseptic, tonic and parasiticidal properties have proved of benefit. It is also said to have anticancer activity. Daily use of garlic in the diet has been shown to have a very beneficial effect on the body, especially the blood system and the heart. For example, demographic studies suggest that garlic is responsible for the low incidence of arteriosclerosis in areas of Italy and Spain where consumption of the bulb is heavy. The bulb is said to be anthelmintic, anti-asthmatic, anti-cholesterolemic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, cholagogue, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, stimulant, stomachic, tonic, vasodilator. The crushed bulb may be applied as a poultice to ease the pain of bites, stings etc.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Many companion gardeners are convinced that celery, onions, and carrots thrive when planted with leeks. Perhaps because of their oniony smell, leeks are also given the credit for repelling rust flies from carrots.
Companions: Compact, light feeding leeks are easy to integrate anywhere in the garden.
Enemies: Companion gardeners believe that leeks inhibit the growth of peas and other legumes. Some believe sage and leeks do not thrive as neighbors.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Bulb rot may occur in overly moist soils. Slugs attack young plants. Rust may be the most serious disease affecting leeks (remove and destroy infected plants). Watch for mildew and leaf spot. Onion maggots and thrips may appear.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil, 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 (Spring/Summer), 13 to 14 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 16-20 weeks before first frost date.
Winter: In areas with mild winter, Leeks are best grown as an over-wintering crop. They are started in early summer.
Leeks transplant easily so are usually started in flats. They don’t have much foliage so can be planted quite close together and you can get a lot of plants in one flat. The seeds germinate and grow slowly, so start them early, water regularly, feed occasionally and be patient.
1. Sow seeds about 1" apart and 1/8" deep in the flat.
Transplant Outdoors:
8-10 weeks before first frost date: The plants should be planted out when they are about 8˝ tall. Some people advise trimming the tops and roots, but it probably isn't a good idea.
Dibber: The simplest way to plant Leek seedlings is with a dibber. In fact a desire to plant a lot of Leeks is a sufficient reason to get (or make) a dibber.
1. Mark out the required 4˝ to 6˝ hole depth (depending on size of plants) on the side of the dibber, so you know how deep to go.
2. Then, simply punch a series of holes in the soil, and drop a plant into each hole
3. Water the plants by putting a trickle of water in each hole. There is no need to fill the hole with soil, enough soil will wash down into the bottom of the hole to cover the roots. It couldn’t be easier, or quicker.
Trench: You can also transplant the seedlings into a 6˝ to 8˝ deep trench, but it’s a lot more work. Dig the trench, lay the plants in it at the right spacing and then plant them almost up to the growing point. The trench is re-filled slowly to blanch the stems and provide a greater length of the most desirable white stem. If you fill the trench all at once, there is some danger that the stem may rot.
Rows: Leeks can also be planted in a row on level ground. They are then hilled up as they grow, to blanch the lower stems.
Cold, Cool, Warm: In areas with hot summers and mild winters, leeks do best as an overwintering crop. This should be started in early summer (indoors or out).
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 55°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Leek seed germinates fairly well in cold soil.
Spacing: 3.0"-6.0", 4 plants per sq ft. The spacing for leeks ranges from 3-6" depending upon the fertility of the soil. They are usually planted in offset rows across the bed, so it's possible to hoe between the beds for weeding. To get the highest yield of large plants, space them 6" apart (for giant plants space them 9" apart). You could initially plant leeks closer together and thin as they get bigger. You can eat the thinnings or transplant them.
Support: No.
Crop Care:
Leeks need looking after carefully, because they grow slowly and don't have a lot of foliage. They do not form bulbs the way onions do but instead develop thick cylindrical stalks.
Water Needs: Moderate. Leeks grow best in moist soil. Give the plants constant moisture and apply a mulch.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Moderate nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Leeks aren't a very hungry plant.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the soil moist with regular watering. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. The lack of foliage makes young leeks very vulnerable to competition from weeds. It is very important to keep them well weeded, so they don’t get overwhelmed. Leeks are quite shallow rooted, so be careful if weeding with a hoe (it’s safer to hand weed).
Protecting, while danger of frost: Mulch, 4 inches, while danger of frost, 1 time. Mulch is essential in areas where winter temperatures drop below 10˚ Fahrenheit. It not only protects the plants from cold, but also stabilizes the soil temperature. This prevents frost heaving, which can damage the roots. It’s best to apply a mulch while the soil is still warm, to hold in the heat.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Compost tea, 3 gallons per 100 sq. ft., when 3in tall, 1 time. Leeks are often in the soil when it’s cold and many nutrients aren’t easily available. Give them a feed of diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) as soon as they are well established.
Side Dressing, when 12" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., when 12in tall, every 4 weeks. Feed them with compost tea again when they are about a foot tall and then every 4 weeks after that. You could also use liquid kelp or fish emulsion instead (apply as directed).
Thinning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time a week During the growing season thin Leeks to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Leeks. Thinning Leeks, before they reach full size, is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Harvest by thinning alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Side Dressing, before harvest: Soil, 4 inches, before harvest, 1 time. Blanching: Leeks are often blanched to get a longer area of white stem, as this is considered superior to the green part. Blanching is usually done with soil, either by hilling up the stems (to just below where the leaves start), or filling up the trench they are growing in. Some gardeners wrap corrugated cardboard collars around the plants before blanching to prevent soil getting lodged between the leaves (no one likes gritty Leeks). You can also blanch the stems with a deep mulch (4"), which has the advantage of not being gritty.
Side Dressing, to conserve moisture: Mulch, 2 inches, to conserve moisture, 1 time. Leeks don’t cast much shade, so they are vulnerable to weeds and the soil is prone to drying out in sunny weather. A layer of mulch helps the soil retain moisture, keeps down weeds and is a source of nutrients for the soil.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Leeks can be harvested as soon as they reach sufficient size (about 3/4" diameter), their flavor and texture is almost always good (even when they get big).
Storage:
Leeks are so hardy they are usually stored in the ground and harvested as needed (cover with mulch in cold climates). The outer skin may turn somewhat slimy in very cold weather, but the interior should be fine.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store leeks for several weeks in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days
In very cold climates you can store Leeks in a root cellar at 32 to 40˚ F. Trim off the excess tops and roots and plant them in a box of damp sand.
Storage Req: Cold, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-60 days
Seed Saving:
Leeks are biennial and will produce their spectacular flowers in their second spring. It's easy to save Leek seed, simply leave the best plants in the ground instead of eating them. Save the seed from at least 12 plants to ensure enough genetic variation.
Leeks are cross-pollinated by insects, so should be isolated by one mile from any other varieties (fortunately there are not likely to be any others nearby). These will produce seed in early summer.
If you need the space for another crop, you can dig the seed leeks from their bed in early spring and move them to a convenient location.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Hardy, wonderful flavor, ideal for soups and stews.
Culinary Use:
Leeks can be used in place of onions, they are of the same family. Make sure they are thoroughly washed and all dirt is removed from between the layers. Leeks are especially good when braised with other vegetables, fish and meats. When they are young they can be grilled or steamed to make a terrine. Leek and potato soup is commonly featured on menus in the winter.
The leaves and long white blanched stem are eaten cooked. They can also be cut into thin slices and be added to salads. A mild onion flavor with a delightful sweetness.
Bulb: raw or cooked. The bulb is produced in the plants second year of growth (that is, after it is normally harvested). The bulb is somewhat larger if the plant is prevented from flowering.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads, though they are rather on the dry side and less pleasant than many other members of the genus.
Medicinal:
This species has the same medicinal virtues as garlic, but in a much milder and less effective form. These virtues are as follows:- Garlic has a very long folk history of use in a wide range of ailments, particularly ailments such as ringworm, Candida and vaginitis where its fungicidal, antiseptic, tonic and parasiticidal properties have proved of benefit. It is also said to have anticancer activity. Daily use of garlic in the diet has been shown to have a very beneficial effect on the body, especially the blood system and the heart. For example, demographic studies suggest that garlic is responsible for the low incidence of arteriosclerosis in areas of Italy and Spain where consumption of the bulb is heavy. The bulb is said to be anthelmintic, anti-asthmatic, anti-cholesterolemic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, cholagogue, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, stimulant, stomachic, tonic, vasodilator. The crushed bulb may be applied as a poultice to ease the pain of bites, stings etc.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Many companion gardeners are convinced that celery, onions, and carrots thrive when planted with leeks. Perhaps because of their oniony smell, leeks are also given the credit for repelling rust flies from carrots.
Companions: Compact, light feeding leeks are easy to integrate anywhere in the garden.
Enemies: Companion gardeners believe that leeks inhibit the growth of peas and other legumes. Some believe sage and leeks do not thrive as neighbors.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Bulb rot may occur in overly moist soils. Slugs attack young plants. Rust may be the most serious disease affecting leeks (remove and destroy infected plants). Watch for mildew and leaf spot. Onion maggots and thrips may appear.
Lettuce
How to Grow Lettuce
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep (where it is cooler) in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 35°F to 85°F, optimal 50°F to 70°F, optimal 60°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8-9 (Spring/Summer), 9 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
5-6 weeks before last frost date: Head lettuce is less hardy than the leaf types, so is usually started indoors 6 weeks before the last frost date. Lettuce is commonly grown from transplants as this gives the fastest harvest and saves on bed space. Seedlings are easily raised and don’t mind root disturbance, so you can use flats, cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. It is said that some kinds of Lettuce need light for germination. This is easy to arrange, just don’t cover the seed with soil. Of course you must then take extra care to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
11-12 weeks before first frost date: Lettuce is commonly grown from transplants as this gives the fastest harvest and saves on bed space. Seedlings are easily raised and don’t mind root disturbance, so you can use flats, cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. It is said that some kinds of Lettuce need light for germination. This is easy to arrange, just don’t cover the seed with soil. Of course you must then take extra care to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Seedlings can be planted out 2 weeks before the last frost date. Lettuce transplants easily in cool weather.
6-8 weeks before first frost date: Seedlings can be planted out 6 - 8 weeks before the first frost date. Lettuce transplants easily in cool weather. If the weather still hot and dry try planting lettuce in the shade of other plants.
Cool, Warm: Lettuce needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. The young plants are vulnerable to weeds, so keep well weeded. Their roots are shallow so be careful with the hoe. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. Lettuce likes full sun except in hot summer climates where it prefers some shade, especially in the afternoon. Add plenty of compost to the soil to encourage rapid growth. Water evenly and moderately to prevent bitterness.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. When: Lettuce germinates quite well in cool (40˚ F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚ F (after this it gets erratic).
Spacing: 4.0", 9 plants per sq. ft. Crowded plants don't produce large heads and won't grow rapidly, which is important if you are to grow the best tasting lettuce. Butterhead lettuce is normally grown 6 to 12" apart, with 12" between rows, depending upon variety. Summer Bibb lettuce can be grown as close as 4" together. Lettuce is commonly direct sown in shallow rows called drills, staggered with 1" between the plants and 5" between the rows. When large varieties are about 4" high they can be thinned to the required spacing. Carefully sowing of seed can reduce the need for thinning, although the thinned lettuce leaves are quite tasty, and can be used to make a small "baby greens" salad.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cool, Warm: Lettuce needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. The young plants are vulnerable to weeds, so keep well weeded. Their roots are shallow so be careful with the hoe. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. Lettuce likes full sun except in hot summer climates where it prefers some shade, especially in the afternoon. Add plenty of compost to the soil to encourage rapid growth. Water evenly and moderately to prevent bitterness.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. When: Lettuce germinates quite well in cool (40˚ F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚ F (after this it gets erratic).
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep (where it is cooler) in warm soil.
Spacing: 4", 9 plants per sq ft. Crowded plants don't produce large heads and won't grow rapidly, which is important if you are to grow the best tasting lettuce. Butterhead lettuce is normally grown 6 to 12" apart, with 12" between rows, depending upon variety. Summer Bibb lettuce can be grown as close as 4" together. Lettuce is commonly direct sown in shallow rows called drills, staggered with 1" between the plants and 5" between the rows. When large varieties are about 4" high they can be thinned to the required spacing. Carefully sowing of seed can reduce the need for thinning, although the thinned lettuce leaves are quite tasty, and can be used to make a small "baby greens" salad.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Lettuce is commonly direct sown in drills, with 1˝ between the plants and 5˝ between the rows. Plant at a depth of 1/4˝ in cold soil and up to ¾˝ deep in warm soil. When the plants are about 4˝ high, they can be thinned to the required spacing. The thinnings can either be eaten, or replanted elsewhere at the final spacing. Transplanting will slow them down a little, which helps to extend the harvest. Careful sowing of seed can reduce the need for thinning.
Fall Crop:
11-13 weeks before first frost date: Sow fall Lettuce 11 to 13 weeks before the first fall frost date. Pests are very active at this time, so you may want to start them inside or in a protected place. Plant up to ¾˝ deep in warm soil.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Lettuce needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need.
Water Needs: Moderate. Lettuce is largely composed of water and it responds to irrigation by giving a larger and better tasting harvest. If you think the plants might need water they probably do.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Lettuce has a weak root system and isn't a very efficient feeder, so the soil needs to be quite fertile. Its main requirement is for nitrogen, but it also needs moderate amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Watering, after transplanting: Water, 0.5 inches, after transplanting, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times, but never soggy. Good watering practices can help offset the negative effects of summer heat, so it is important to keep the soil constantly moist. In hot weather this may mean watering every other day. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, when 4" tall: when 4" tall. If you desire delicious young tender Lettuce you can plant Lettuce closer together than the variety requirements but you must constantly thin the outer leaves beginning when the plant is around 4 inches tall. This also helps Lettuce from bolting.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., when 4" tall, 1 time. If your soil is not as rich as it could be, give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp about a month before harvest. This is especially important with the crisphead varieties.
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 1 layers, to cool soil, 1 time.
Optional: This helps to conserve soil moisture, keeps down weeds and helps to keep the plants clean. Mulch can also be used to keep the soil cool in hot weather (apply it early). Omit this if you have a problem with slugs & snails; using mulch may harbor lettuce loving slugs.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can begin harvesting outer leaves as soon as they are large enough and continue until a central stalk begins to form, which signals the end of the harvest period. You can also harvest the entire plant when it's mature but still young and crisp.
Traditionally the whole plant is cut off at the base. If you leave a few leaves on the stem, rather than cutting at actual ground level, the head will be cleaner. The stem remaining in the ground may then continue to grow and sprout new leaves. It may even grow some little lettuces. Harvest when the heads are firm. Don't wait for them to reach full maturity, as they will bolt soon afterward (picking individual leaves may even slow down bolting).
Storage:
Crisp head Lettuce has stiff, fleshy leaves and keeps very well, in fact that is why it is so popular with commercial growers. It will keep for several weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator. The other types are somewhere in between. Don’t wash Lettuce until you are going to use it.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Leaf lettuce has thin leaves and won’t keep for much more than a week.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
It is fairly easy to save lettuce seed. The plants are mostly self-pollinated, though there may be some cross-pollination from insects. It is recommended that varieties be separated by 25 feet to keep them pure, which is simple enough. If you save the seed from your best plants, you can develop better strains than you can buy (and have higher quality seed). You can save lettuce seed with no thought for purity if you don't care if the variety is somewhat mixed up, as it will give you plenty of seed for growing cut-and-come-again lettuce. You can gather seed from plants that have bolted, but it is important not to gather it from the first plants to bolt. Early flowering is not a trait you want to perpetuate.
Head lettuce can present a problem when it comes to seed saving. The head may be so dense that the flower stalk may not be able to get out. If this is the case, you may have to cut an X in the top of the head, to enable the flower stem to emerge (as you would with a cabbage). If the flower stem is very big you may have to stake it, to prevent it from falling over when it gets loaded with seed.
The yellow flowers are followed, 2 to 3 weeks later, by fuzzy seed heads. Gather the seed as it ripens by holding a paper bag over the head and shaking. The seed ripens sequentially, so you must collect it every few days to get all the ripe seed. Keep on collecting until you have all the seed you need, or until it is blown away by the wind. Alternatively you can cut the entire head when about 50% of the seed has ripened and dry it in a paper grocery bag. Clean the seed as much as possible, then dry and store it in a cool place. Newly harvested seed usually won't germinate for a couple of months.
Lettuce Mosaic virus can be seed borne so watch out for it if you save your own seed, or swap seed with others.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste: Delicate juicy, buttery flavor.
Culinary Use: This type of leaf produces a buttery, smooth delicate flavor, it's the buttery characteristic that makes this a popular choice. The primary use is to make salads with dressing, and it's a favorite choice of the French. The shape of the leaf lends it self to being used as a vessel or wrap which can be filled with vegetables, meat or fish.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A mild slightly sweet flavor with a crisp texture, lettuce is a very commonly used salad leaf and can also be cooked as a potherb or be added to soups etc.
Seed: sprouted and used in salads or sandwiches. An edible oil is obtained from the seed. The seed is very small, extraction of the oil on any scale would not be very feasible.
Medicinal:
The whole plant is rich in a milky sap that flows freely from any wounds. This hardens and dries when in contact with the air. The sap contains "lactucarium", which is used in medicine for its anodyne, antispasmodic, digestive, diuretic, hypnotic, narcotic and sedative properties. Lactucarium has the effects of a feeble opium, but without its tendency to cause digestive upsets, nor is it addictive. It is taken internally in the treatment of insomnia, anxiety, neuroses, hyperactivity in children, dry coughs, whooping cough, rheumatic pain etc. Concentrations of lactucarium are low in young plants and most concentrated when the plant comes into flower. It is collected commercially by cutting the heads of the plants and scraping the juice into china vessels several times a day until the plant is exhausted. The cultivated lettuce does not contain as much lactucarium as the wild species, most being produced when the plant is in flower. An infusion of the fresh or dried flowering plant can also be used. The plant should be used with caution, and never without the supervision of a skilled practitioner. Even normal doses can cause drowsiness whilst excess causes restlessness and overdoses can cause death through cardiac paralysis. Some physicians believe that any effects of this medicine are caused by the mind of the patient rather than by the medicine. The sap has also been applied externally in the treatment of warts. The seed is anodyne and galactogogue. Lettuce has acquired a folk reputation as an an aphrodisiac, anodyne, carminative, diuretic, emollient, febrifuge, hypoglycemic, hypnotic, narcotic, parasiticide and sedative.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Does well with beets, broccoli, bush beans, pole beans, carrots, cucumbers, onion, radish and strawberries. It grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.
Allies: Dill and lettuce are a perfect pair. May be grown in containers with other cool weather annuals such as petunias and pansies.
Enemies: Keep lettuce away from cabbage. Cabbage is a deterrent to the growth and flavor of lettuce.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Potential disease problems include downy mildew, powdery mildew, shot hole, bottom rot, septoria leaf spot, Botrytis and wilt. Potential insect pests include aphids, snails, slugs, leafminers and whiteflies. Mosiac virus may appear.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep (where it is cooler) in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 35°F to 85°F, optimal 50°F to 70°F, optimal 60°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8-9 (Spring/Summer), 9 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
5-6 weeks before last frost date: Head lettuce is less hardy than the leaf types, so is usually started indoors 6 weeks before the last frost date. Lettuce is commonly grown from transplants as this gives the fastest harvest and saves on bed space. Seedlings are easily raised and don’t mind root disturbance, so you can use flats, cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. It is said that some kinds of Lettuce need light for germination. This is easy to arrange, just don’t cover the seed with soil. Of course you must then take extra care to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
11-12 weeks before first frost date: Lettuce is commonly grown from transplants as this gives the fastest harvest and saves on bed space. Seedlings are easily raised and don’t mind root disturbance, so you can use flats, cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. It is said that some kinds of Lettuce need light for germination. This is easy to arrange, just don’t cover the seed with soil. Of course you must then take extra care to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Seedlings can be planted out 2 weeks before the last frost date. Lettuce transplants easily in cool weather.
6-8 weeks before first frost date: Seedlings can be planted out 6 - 8 weeks before the first frost date. Lettuce transplants easily in cool weather. If the weather still hot and dry try planting lettuce in the shade of other plants.
Cool, Warm: Lettuce needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. The young plants are vulnerable to weeds, so keep well weeded. Their roots are shallow so be careful with the hoe. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. Lettuce likes full sun except in hot summer climates where it prefers some shade, especially in the afternoon. Add plenty of compost to the soil to encourage rapid growth. Water evenly and moderately to prevent bitterness.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. When: Lettuce germinates quite well in cool (40˚ F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚ F (after this it gets erratic).
Spacing: 4.0", 9 plants per sq. ft. Crowded plants don't produce large heads and won't grow rapidly, which is important if you are to grow the best tasting lettuce. Butterhead lettuce is normally grown 6 to 12" apart, with 12" between rows, depending upon variety. Summer Bibb lettuce can be grown as close as 4" together. Lettuce is commonly direct sown in shallow rows called drills, staggered with 1" between the plants and 5" between the rows. When large varieties are about 4" high they can be thinned to the required spacing. Carefully sowing of seed can reduce the need for thinning, although the thinned lettuce leaves are quite tasty, and can be used to make a small "baby greens" salad.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cool, Warm: Lettuce needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. The young plants are vulnerable to weeds, so keep well weeded. Their roots are shallow so be careful with the hoe. Does best when planted in early spring or late summer. Lettuce likes full sun except in hot summer climates where it prefers some shade, especially in the afternoon. Add plenty of compost to the soil to encourage rapid growth. Water evenly and moderately to prevent bitterness.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. When: Lettuce germinates quite well in cool (40˚ F) soil and will continue to do so until it gets up to 75˚ F (after this it gets erratic).
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep (where it is cooler) in warm soil.
Spacing: 4", 9 plants per sq ft. Crowded plants don't produce large heads and won't grow rapidly, which is important if you are to grow the best tasting lettuce. Butterhead lettuce is normally grown 6 to 12" apart, with 12" between rows, depending upon variety. Summer Bibb lettuce can be grown as close as 4" together. Lettuce is commonly direct sown in shallow rows called drills, staggered with 1" between the plants and 5" between the rows. When large varieties are about 4" high they can be thinned to the required spacing. Carefully sowing of seed can reduce the need for thinning, although the thinned lettuce leaves are quite tasty, and can be used to make a small "baby greens" salad.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Lettuce is commonly direct sown in drills, with 1˝ between the plants and 5˝ between the rows. Plant at a depth of 1/4˝ in cold soil and up to ¾˝ deep in warm soil. When the plants are about 4˝ high, they can be thinned to the required spacing. The thinnings can either be eaten, or replanted elsewhere at the final spacing. Transplanting will slow them down a little, which helps to extend the harvest. Careful sowing of seed can reduce the need for thinning.
Fall Crop:
11-13 weeks before first frost date: Sow fall Lettuce 11 to 13 weeks before the first fall frost date. Pests are very active at this time, so you may want to start them inside or in a protected place. Plant up to ¾˝ deep in warm soil.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Lettuce needs to grow quickly for best quality. This can only be done by giving the plants everything they need.
Water Needs: Moderate. Lettuce is largely composed of water and it responds to irrigation by giving a larger and better tasting harvest. If you think the plants might need water they probably do.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Lettuce has a weak root system and isn't a very efficient feeder, so the soil needs to be quite fertile. Its main requirement is for nitrogen, but it also needs moderate amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Watering, after transplanting: Water, 0.5 inches, after transplanting, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times, but never soggy. Good watering practices can help offset the negative effects of summer heat, so it is important to keep the soil constantly moist. In hot weather this may mean watering every other day. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, when 4" tall: when 4" tall. If you desire delicious young tender Lettuce you can plant Lettuce closer together than the variety requirements but you must constantly thin the outer leaves beginning when the plant is around 4 inches tall. This also helps Lettuce from bolting.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., when 4" tall, 1 time. If your soil is not as rich as it could be, give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp about a month before harvest. This is especially important with the crisphead varieties.
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 1 layers, to cool soil, 1 time.
Optional: This helps to conserve soil moisture, keeps down weeds and helps to keep the plants clean. Mulch can also be used to keep the soil cool in hot weather (apply it early). Omit this if you have a problem with slugs & snails; using mulch may harbor lettuce loving slugs.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can begin harvesting outer leaves as soon as they are large enough and continue until a central stalk begins to form, which signals the end of the harvest period. You can also harvest the entire plant when it's mature but still young and crisp.
Traditionally the whole plant is cut off at the base. If you leave a few leaves on the stem, rather than cutting at actual ground level, the head will be cleaner. The stem remaining in the ground may then continue to grow and sprout new leaves. It may even grow some little lettuces. Harvest when the heads are firm. Don't wait for them to reach full maturity, as they will bolt soon afterward (picking individual leaves may even slow down bolting).
Storage:
Crisp head Lettuce has stiff, fleshy leaves and keeps very well, in fact that is why it is so popular with commercial growers. It will keep for several weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator. The other types are somewhere in between. Don’t wash Lettuce until you are going to use it.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Leaf lettuce has thin leaves and won’t keep for much more than a week.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
It is fairly easy to save lettuce seed. The plants are mostly self-pollinated, though there may be some cross-pollination from insects. It is recommended that varieties be separated by 25 feet to keep them pure, which is simple enough. If you save the seed from your best plants, you can develop better strains than you can buy (and have higher quality seed). You can save lettuce seed with no thought for purity if you don't care if the variety is somewhat mixed up, as it will give you plenty of seed for growing cut-and-come-again lettuce. You can gather seed from plants that have bolted, but it is important not to gather it from the first plants to bolt. Early flowering is not a trait you want to perpetuate.
Head lettuce can present a problem when it comes to seed saving. The head may be so dense that the flower stalk may not be able to get out. If this is the case, you may have to cut an X in the top of the head, to enable the flower stem to emerge (as you would with a cabbage). If the flower stem is very big you may have to stake it, to prevent it from falling over when it gets loaded with seed.
The yellow flowers are followed, 2 to 3 weeks later, by fuzzy seed heads. Gather the seed as it ripens by holding a paper bag over the head and shaking. The seed ripens sequentially, so you must collect it every few days to get all the ripe seed. Keep on collecting until you have all the seed you need, or until it is blown away by the wind. Alternatively you can cut the entire head when about 50% of the seed has ripened and dry it in a paper grocery bag. Clean the seed as much as possible, then dry and store it in a cool place. Newly harvested seed usually won't germinate for a couple of months.
Lettuce Mosaic virus can be seed borne so watch out for it if you save your own seed, or swap seed with others.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste: Delicate juicy, buttery flavor.
Culinary Use: This type of leaf produces a buttery, smooth delicate flavor, it's the buttery characteristic that makes this a popular choice. The primary use is to make salads with dressing, and it's a favorite choice of the French. The shape of the leaf lends it self to being used as a vessel or wrap which can be filled with vegetables, meat or fish.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A mild slightly sweet flavor with a crisp texture, lettuce is a very commonly used salad leaf and can also be cooked as a potherb or be added to soups etc.
Seed: sprouted and used in salads or sandwiches. An edible oil is obtained from the seed. The seed is very small, extraction of the oil on any scale would not be very feasible.
Medicinal:
The whole plant is rich in a milky sap that flows freely from any wounds. This hardens and dries when in contact with the air. The sap contains "lactucarium", which is used in medicine for its anodyne, antispasmodic, digestive, diuretic, hypnotic, narcotic and sedative properties. Lactucarium has the effects of a feeble opium, but without its tendency to cause digestive upsets, nor is it addictive. It is taken internally in the treatment of insomnia, anxiety, neuroses, hyperactivity in children, dry coughs, whooping cough, rheumatic pain etc. Concentrations of lactucarium are low in young plants and most concentrated when the plant comes into flower. It is collected commercially by cutting the heads of the plants and scraping the juice into china vessels several times a day until the plant is exhausted. The cultivated lettuce does not contain as much lactucarium as the wild species, most being produced when the plant is in flower. An infusion of the fresh or dried flowering plant can also be used. The plant should be used with caution, and never without the supervision of a skilled practitioner. Even normal doses can cause drowsiness whilst excess causes restlessness and overdoses can cause death through cardiac paralysis. Some physicians believe that any effects of this medicine are caused by the mind of the patient rather than by the medicine. The sap has also been applied externally in the treatment of warts. The seed is anodyne and galactogogue. Lettuce has acquired a folk reputation as an an aphrodisiac, anodyne, carminative, diuretic, emollient, febrifuge, hypoglycemic, hypnotic, narcotic, parasiticide and sedative.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Does well with beets, broccoli, bush beans, pole beans, carrots, cucumbers, onion, radish and strawberries. It grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.
Allies: Dill and lettuce are a perfect pair. May be grown in containers with other cool weather annuals such as petunias and pansies.
Enemies: Keep lettuce away from cabbage. Cabbage is a deterrent to the growth and flavor of lettuce.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Potential disease problems include downy mildew, powdery mildew, shot hole, bottom rot, septoria leaf spot, Botrytis and wilt. Potential insect pests include aphids, snails, slugs, leafminers and whiteflies. Mosiac virus may appear.
Melon
How to Grow Melon
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil, and 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 100°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 11 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
On last frost date: Start them indoors and warm the soil with black plastic or cloches before planting. Like most Cucurbits they dislike root disturbance, so should be started in cell packs, soil blocks or individual 4" pots (best).
1. Plant 2 seeds to a 4" pot.
2. Thin to the best one after both have emerged.
Don’t start your Melons too early, as you don’t want them to get rootbound. If it is too cold to put them out when they are ready, you will have to move them into larger pots.
Transplant Outdoors:
3-4 weeks after last frost date: The seedlings will be ready to plant out 3 to 4 weeks after sowing, when they have at least 3 or 4 true leaves.
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately.
2. When they have recovered from transplanting, give them a liquid feed to give the a boost.
In cool areas you might want to plant your melon seedlings under row covers until the weather warms up.
Warm, Hot, Long days: Melons must have hot (ideally 90Ż F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Spacing: 48.0"-72.0", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Hills: Melons are most often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Make the hills 2' in diameter, and 4 to 6' apart, with 6 plants to a hill. Thin to the 3 strongest plants per mound. This is the most recommended way to plant and gives plants space to sprawl.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot, Long days: Melons must have hot (ideally 90Ż F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil, and 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 48"-72", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Hills: Melons are most often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Make the hills 2' in diameter, and 4 to 6' apart, with 6 plants to a hill. Thin to the 3 strongest plants per mound. This is the most recommended way to plant and gives plants space to sprawl.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Summer Crop:
3-4 weeks after last frost date: If your growing season is long and hot enough, you will probably want to direct sow your Melons. They will germinate and grow rapidly in warm (75˚ F) soil.
In moist climates watermelons are usually grown on hills from 3 to 12" high, as this helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). To make a hill remove 2 spade of soil, dump in 2 spades of compost or aged manure), then replace the soil. Mix it all together and shape it into a low mound.
In dry climates they may be planted in a slight depression (remove 2" of soil and use it to make a water retaining rim) to conserve moisture.
Whether sowing in hills or basins you usually sow 6 seeds in a circle, 1" deep and 4" apart. Plant the seeds ½˝ to 1˝deep. When all the seeds have germinated you should thin to the best 3 (pinch out the rest).
If the soil is warm and dry you might want to pre-soak the seeds overnight before planting, especially if you are sowing directly outside.
Support: Optional. Watermelons are most often allowed to run over the ground, but if space is limited they may be trained up a trellis, just as you would cucumbers (though they don't climb very well). However the fruits are much heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) Also the trellis itself will have to be pretty sturdy. If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a board, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Crop Care:
To grow sweet tasting watermelons the plants must have plenty of sun, warm temperatures, lots of nutrients, room to grow and a good supply of water.
Water Needs: Moderate. Watermelons need to produce a lot of leaves to make enough sugar to produce sweet fruit. To do this they need a constant supply of water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Not surprisingly for such a large and vigorous plant, watermelons are fairly hungry feeders. Melons don't need a lot of nitrogen as it encourages leaf growth at the expense of fruit. They do like phosphorus (give them colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as boron and magnesium.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Mulch, 2 inches, after sowing, 1 time. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the soil in hot weather. Don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up however.
Thinning, after sowing: 18 inches apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds have germinated, thin the plants to their final spacing.
Pruning, when 12" tall: when 12" tall, 2 times. The seedlings should be pinched back twice, so they produce a bushy plant with four growing tips. These are then allowed to grow and flower.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, at early fruit set, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile you might want to feed the plants with compost tea regularly once the flowers start to set fruit. Side dressing should be done cautiously, as too much nitrogen may merely vegetative foliage growth at the expense of fruiting.
Watering, before fruit set: Water, 0.5 gallons per plant, before fruit set, 2 times a week. Melons are quite shallow rooted so they need a constant and even supply of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, during fruit production: During fruit production. Ideally you want one fruit to develop simultaneously on each of the four shoots. If one shoot produces a fruit before the others, it should be pinched off, as it may prevent the plant from producing any more. Once you have four fruits developing, you should pinch off any others that form. The fewer fruit you allow to develop, the bigger they will all get.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 2 gallons per plant, during fruit production, 1 time a week. Melons prefer a constant and even supply of water, especially when the fruits are sizing up. They should get all the water they can use at this time (in very hot weather this could be as much as 2 gallons a day). Ideally it should be lukewarm so it doesn’t cool the soil. When the fruits have reached full size you should ease up on watering, otherwise the fruit may split. The best way to water Melons is with a drip system, as they don’t like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Support: Optional. Watermelons are most often allowed to run over the ground, but if space is limited they may be trained up a trellis, just as you would cucumbers (though they don't climb very well). However the fruits are much heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) Also the trellis itself will have to be pretty sturdy. If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a board, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
The first fruits should be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, about 55 to 85 days after pollination.
When a Watermelon is ripe the tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up and turns brown. The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will be whitish or yellow and the stripes will fade. If you tap the fruit it will sound hollow (learn what this sounds like by tapping every fruit before opening and remembering the sound of the good ones).
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-42 days after maturity:
When: This depends upon the variety, but the first fruits should be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, about 45 to 75 days after pollination. The key to great Melons is to pick them at the peak of ripeness, so don’t pick a melon before its time (or after). When a Watermelon is ripe the tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up and turns brown. The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will be whitish or yellow and the stripes will have faded. If you tap the fruit it will sound hollow (learn what this sounds like by tapping every fruit before opening and remembering the sound of the good ones).
How: Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a couple of inches of stem attached. Handle the fruit carefully once it is harvested, as it will bruise very easily.
Storage:
Watermelons can be stored in a fridge for a couple of weeks, but their flavor will slowly deteriorate.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
The fruit should be treated like tomatoes and kept at room temperature. Ideally they should be eaten as soon as possible, as they will only deteriorate over time.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-60°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Watermelons are cross-pollinated by insects so you can either grow only one variety at a time, isolate by a 1/2 mile, cage them or hand pollinate.
Hand pollinating Watermelons isn't difficult, though the flowers are smaller than other Cucurbits. The flowers are most receptive to pollination before any fruit start growing. Once there are fruit maturing on the plant they become less inclined to produce more by pollinating successfully.
You need to prepare to pollinate the flowers the night before, by finding some male and female flowers (the female has a tiny "Melon" behind the flower) that are about to open the following day. Tape them shut with a little piece of masking tape (don't tape it too well or it will be hard to remove without damaging the flower). This prevents them from opening and being pollinated before you get to them.
The next day pick a male flower and remove its tape and petals. Then carefully open a female flower (from a different plant), being very careful to not damage the petals. Insert the male flower into a female flower and brush the pollen from the anthers on to stigma. Finally tape the female flower closed again. The petals will soon fall off and if pollination was successful the tiny fruit will begin to grow.
If you are adventurous, you could collect the seed from any ripe fruit as you eat it (so long as it isn't an f1 hybrid) and see what grows. In the case of Melons, I would avoid hybrids for this reason, it seems a shame not to be able to use some of those seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet Red Flesh.
Culinary Use:
Watermelon is best eaten fresh all by itself, however it can also be used in, salads, drinks, soup, sorbets, and Granita. The fresh flavor and water content make it perfect for experimenting in the summer heat. It pairs well with arugula and goat cheese for a crunchy summer salad.
You can also freeze flesh in a honey-based syrup. The rind can be pickled
Fruit: raw. A very refreshing fruit, it has a delicate sweetness with an extremely high water content, the fruit is often used as a refreshing drink. The unripe fruits are added to soups. A syrup can also be made from the juice. The fruit is a rich source of pectin, and can be added to pectin-low fruits when making jam. Pectin is said to protect the body against radiation. The fruit varies considerably in size from cultivar to cultivar, but can be up to 1 meter long and 40 cm wide.
Leaves: cooked.
Seed: raw or cooked. They can be roasted or ground into a powder and used with cereal flours when making bread, cakes etc, or added to soups and stews. The seed contains about 30% protein, 20 - 40% oil. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Medicinal:
The seed is demulcent, diuretic, pectoral and tonic. It is sometimes used in the treatment of the urinary passages and has been used to treat bed wetting. The seed is also a good vermifuge and has a hypotensive action. A fatty oil in the seed, as well as aqueous or alcoholic extracts, paralyze tapeworms and roundworms. The fruit, eaten when fully ripe or even when almost putrid, is used as a febrifuge The fruit is also diuretic, being effective in the treatment of dropsy and renal stones. The fruit contains the substance lycopine (which is also found in the skins of tomatoes). This substance has been shown to protect the body from heart attacks and, in the case of the tomato at least, is more effective when it is cooked. The rind of the fruit is prescribed in cases of alcoholic poisoning and diabetes. The root is purgative and in large dose is said to be a certain emetic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
May be planted in between hills of corn. Grow them with corn, nasturtiums, peas, sunflowers, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins and radishes. Nasturtium helps to deter bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
Problems: Anthracnose, blossom end rot, fusarium wilt, bacterial wilt, downy mildew and powdery mildew may appear. Watch for cucumber beetles which should be removed immediately by hand. Additional potential insect pests include aphids, squash bugs, and cutworms. Watch for mites.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil, and 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 100°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 11 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
On last frost date: Start them indoors and warm the soil with black plastic or cloches before planting. Like most Cucurbits they dislike root disturbance, so should be started in cell packs, soil blocks or individual 4" pots (best).
1. Plant 2 seeds to a 4" pot.
2. Thin to the best one after both have emerged.
Don’t start your Melons too early, as you don’t want them to get rootbound. If it is too cold to put them out when they are ready, you will have to move them into larger pots.
Transplant Outdoors:
3-4 weeks after last frost date: The seedlings will be ready to plant out 3 to 4 weeks after sowing, when they have at least 3 or 4 true leaves.
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately.
2. When they have recovered from transplanting, give them a liquid feed to give the a boost.
In cool areas you might want to plant your melon seedlings under row covers until the weather warms up.
Warm, Hot, Long days: Melons must have hot (ideally 90Ż F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Spacing: 48.0"-72.0", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Hills: Melons are most often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Make the hills 2' in diameter, and 4 to 6' apart, with 6 plants to a hill. Thin to the 3 strongest plants per mound. This is the most recommended way to plant and gives plants space to sprawl.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot, Long days: Melons must have hot (ideally 90Ż F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil, and 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 48"-72", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Hills: Melons are most often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Make the hills 2' in diameter, and 4 to 6' apart, with 6 plants to a hill. Thin to the 3 strongest plants per mound. This is the most recommended way to plant and gives plants space to sprawl.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Summer Crop:
3-4 weeks after last frost date: If your growing season is long and hot enough, you will probably want to direct sow your Melons. They will germinate and grow rapidly in warm (75˚ F) soil.
In moist climates watermelons are usually grown on hills from 3 to 12" high, as this helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). To make a hill remove 2 spade of soil, dump in 2 spades of compost or aged manure), then replace the soil. Mix it all together and shape it into a low mound.
In dry climates they may be planted in a slight depression (remove 2" of soil and use it to make a water retaining rim) to conserve moisture.
Whether sowing in hills or basins you usually sow 6 seeds in a circle, 1" deep and 4" apart. Plant the seeds ½˝ to 1˝deep. When all the seeds have germinated you should thin to the best 3 (pinch out the rest).
If the soil is warm and dry you might want to pre-soak the seeds overnight before planting, especially if you are sowing directly outside.
Support: Optional. Watermelons are most often allowed to run over the ground, but if space is limited they may be trained up a trellis, just as you would cucumbers (though they don't climb very well). However the fruits are much heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) Also the trellis itself will have to be pretty sturdy. If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a board, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Crop Care:
To grow sweet tasting watermelons the plants must have plenty of sun, warm temperatures, lots of nutrients, room to grow and a good supply of water.
Water Needs: Moderate. Watermelons need to produce a lot of leaves to make enough sugar to produce sweet fruit. To do this they need a constant supply of water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Not surprisingly for such a large and vigorous plant, watermelons are fairly hungry feeders. Melons don't need a lot of nitrogen as it encourages leaf growth at the expense of fruit. They do like phosphorus (give them colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as boron and magnesium.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Mulch, 2 inches, after sowing, 1 time. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the soil in hot weather. Don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up however.
Thinning, after sowing: 18 inches apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds have germinated, thin the plants to their final spacing.
Pruning, when 12" tall: when 12" tall, 2 times. The seedlings should be pinched back twice, so they produce a bushy plant with four growing tips. These are then allowed to grow and flower.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, at early fruit set, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile you might want to feed the plants with compost tea regularly once the flowers start to set fruit. Side dressing should be done cautiously, as too much nitrogen may merely vegetative foliage growth at the expense of fruiting.
Watering, before fruit set: Water, 0.5 gallons per plant, before fruit set, 2 times a week. Melons are quite shallow rooted so they need a constant and even supply of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, during fruit production: During fruit production. Ideally you want one fruit to develop simultaneously on each of the four shoots. If one shoot produces a fruit before the others, it should be pinched off, as it may prevent the plant from producing any more. Once you have four fruits developing, you should pinch off any others that form. The fewer fruit you allow to develop, the bigger they will all get.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 2 gallons per plant, during fruit production, 1 time a week. Melons prefer a constant and even supply of water, especially when the fruits are sizing up. They should get all the water they can use at this time (in very hot weather this could be as much as 2 gallons a day). Ideally it should be lukewarm so it doesn’t cool the soil. When the fruits have reached full size you should ease up on watering, otherwise the fruit may split. The best way to water Melons is with a drip system, as they don’t like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Support: Optional. Watermelons are most often allowed to run over the ground, but if space is limited they may be trained up a trellis, just as you would cucumbers (though they don't climb very well). However the fruits are much heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) Also the trellis itself will have to be pretty sturdy. If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a board, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Harvesting:
Ripening:
The first fruits should be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, about 55 to 85 days after pollination.
When a Watermelon is ripe the tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up and turns brown. The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will be whitish or yellow and the stripes will fade. If you tap the fruit it will sound hollow (learn what this sounds like by tapping every fruit before opening and remembering the sound of the good ones).
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-42 days after maturity:
When: This depends upon the variety, but the first fruits should be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, about 45 to 75 days after pollination. The key to great Melons is to pick them at the peak of ripeness, so don’t pick a melon before its time (or after). When a Watermelon is ripe the tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up and turns brown. The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will be whitish or yellow and the stripes will have faded. If you tap the fruit it will sound hollow (learn what this sounds like by tapping every fruit before opening and remembering the sound of the good ones).
How: Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a couple of inches of stem attached. Handle the fruit carefully once it is harvested, as it will bruise very easily.
Storage:
Watermelons can be stored in a fridge for a couple of weeks, but their flavor will slowly deteriorate.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
The fruit should be treated like tomatoes and kept at room temperature. Ideally they should be eaten as soon as possible, as they will only deteriorate over time.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-60°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Seed Saving:
Watermelons are cross-pollinated by insects so you can either grow only one variety at a time, isolate by a 1/2 mile, cage them or hand pollinate.
Hand pollinating Watermelons isn't difficult, though the flowers are smaller than other Cucurbits. The flowers are most receptive to pollination before any fruit start growing. Once there are fruit maturing on the plant they become less inclined to produce more by pollinating successfully.
You need to prepare to pollinate the flowers the night before, by finding some male and female flowers (the female has a tiny "Melon" behind the flower) that are about to open the following day. Tape them shut with a little piece of masking tape (don't tape it too well or it will be hard to remove without damaging the flower). This prevents them from opening and being pollinated before you get to them.
The next day pick a male flower and remove its tape and petals. Then carefully open a female flower (from a different plant), being very careful to not damage the petals. Insert the male flower into a female flower and brush the pollen from the anthers on to stigma. Finally tape the female flower closed again. The petals will soon fall off and if pollination was successful the tiny fruit will begin to grow.
If you are adventurous, you could collect the seed from any ripe fruit as you eat it (so long as it isn't an f1 hybrid) and see what grows. In the case of Melons, I would avoid hybrids for this reason, it seems a shame not to be able to use some of those seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Sweet Red Flesh.
Culinary Use:
Watermelon is best eaten fresh all by itself, however it can also be used in, salads, drinks, soup, sorbets, and Granita. The fresh flavor and water content make it perfect for experimenting in the summer heat. It pairs well with arugula and goat cheese for a crunchy summer salad.
You can also freeze flesh in a honey-based syrup. The rind can be pickled
Fruit: raw. A very refreshing fruit, it has a delicate sweetness with an extremely high water content, the fruit is often used as a refreshing drink. The unripe fruits are added to soups. A syrup can also be made from the juice. The fruit is a rich source of pectin, and can be added to pectin-low fruits when making jam. Pectin is said to protect the body against radiation. The fruit varies considerably in size from cultivar to cultivar, but can be up to 1 meter long and 40 cm wide.
Leaves: cooked.
Seed: raw or cooked. They can be roasted or ground into a powder and used with cereal flours when making bread, cakes etc, or added to soups and stews. The seed contains about 30% protein, 20 - 40% oil. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Medicinal:
The seed is demulcent, diuretic, pectoral and tonic. It is sometimes used in the treatment of the urinary passages and has been used to treat bed wetting. The seed is also a good vermifuge and has a hypotensive action. A fatty oil in the seed, as well as aqueous or alcoholic extracts, paralyze tapeworms and roundworms. The fruit, eaten when fully ripe or even when almost putrid, is used as a febrifuge The fruit is also diuretic, being effective in the treatment of dropsy and renal stones. The fruit contains the substance lycopine (which is also found in the skins of tomatoes). This substance has been shown to protect the body from heart attacks and, in the case of the tomato at least, is more effective when it is cooked. The rind of the fruit is prescribed in cases of alcoholic poisoning and diabetes. The root is purgative and in large dose is said to be a certain emetic.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
May be planted in between hills of corn. Grow them with corn, nasturtiums, peas, sunflowers, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins and radishes. Nasturtium helps to deter bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
Problems: Anthracnose, blossom end rot, fusarium wilt, bacterial wilt, downy mildew and powdery mildew may appear. Watch for cucumber beetles which should be removed immediately by hand. Additional potential insect pests include aphids, squash bugs, and cutworms. Watch for mites.
Mustard
How to Grow Mustard
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: The ideal spot for mustards depends on the weather. If it's cool they should be planted on a sunny site. If it's warm then some shade is a good idea since mustards do not taste as good in warmer conditions. Mustards are in and out of the ground quickly, so are often used for intercropping between slower growing crops, rather than being given their own area.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 55°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Mustard germinates and grows quickly (if the soil is at least 45 degrees) so is usually planted outdoors.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 6"-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Intensive beds: Plant mustard 6" to 12" apart.
Spring Crop
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Mustard is usually direct sown, starting 4 weeks before the last frost date, so they have time to mature before it gets warm. They are somewhat prone to bolting when planted in spring and definitely do better as a fall and winter crop.
1. Broadcast the seed and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of soil (or a mix of half soil and half compost). It doesn’t seem to mind crowding, but should eventually be thinned to the proper spacing (eat the thinnings). It can also be sown in rows (sow seed 1/2˝ deep and 1/2˝ apart).
Fall Crop:
8-10 weeks before first frost date: Mustards generally work best as a fall crop and (like many Brassicas) cold weather actually improves their flavor.
1. Broadcast seed and then cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of soil (or a mix of half soil and half compost). It doesn’t seem to mind crowding, but should eventually be thinned to the proper spacing (eat the thinnings). It can also be sown in rows (sow seed 1/2˝ deep and 1/2˝ apart).
Support: No
Crop Care:
The plants need even watering and cool temperatures. If there is a slow down or interruption in growth they may bolt prematurely. If they do bolt, don't worry. You can eat the flower stalks like Broccoli Raab.
Water Needs: Moderate. If you want tasty, mild flavored mustard greens (and you do) you must keep the soil moist at all times. If the soil is too dry the plants will develop a bitter and pungent flavor.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. The Mustards need fertile soil to produce well.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 inch regularly, 1 time a week For best flavor it is important to keep the soil moist at all times. Fortunately this isn't usually a problem in cool weather. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after planting: 1 inch apart, after planting, 1 time a week If you desire delicious young tender Mustard Greens you can plant Mustard Greens closer together than the variety requirements but you must constantly thin the outer leaves.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Compost tea, 3 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., when 3" tall, 1 time. After thinning the plants to their final spacing you should feed them with a foliar fertilizer such as compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed).
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
You can decide when the leaves are ready based on your needs. They can be ready when they are small or you can wait for full growth.
Storage:
Mustards can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 7 days (how long depends upon the variety).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 3-7 days
Seed Saving:
It's easy to save seed from these annuals. Just treat them like kale and gather the seed at the appropriate time. Be aware that it can become a weed if it gets established (though perhaps not an unwelcome one).
Mustard can produce far more seed than you need for propagation. You can use the surplus for growing cut- and come-again salad greens and micro-greens, or for sprouting like alfalfa (they make excellent, slightly spicy sprouts). They can even be used for making the condiment mustard.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Spicy and richly flavored.
Culinary Use:
Mustard greens are versatile and can be braised, steamed, sautéed or made into chips. Their spicy favor goes well when cooked simply with garlic or onions. Mustard greens also make an excellent side dish to serve with fish or meat.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A peppery flavor that can range from mild to hot, this is one of the most highly prized cooked vegetables in the Orient. The leaves can also be eaten raw, when finely shredded they make a very acceptable addition to mixed salads. The protein extracted from the leaves mixes well with banana pulp and is well adapted as a pie filling.
Flowers and young flowering stems: raw or cooked. Sweet and succulent.
Seed: An edible semi-drying oil is obtained from the seed. The seed contains 25 - 30% oil. The seed is used as a mustard flavoring. It is the source of "brown mustard", a prepared mustard that is milder than that produced from other species. Pungency of mustard develops when cold water is added to the ground-up seed - an enzyme (myrosin) acts on a glycoside (sinigrin) to produce a sulphur compound. The reaction takes 10 - 15 minutes. Mixing with hot water or vinegar, or adding salt, inhibits the enzyme and produces a mild bitter mustard. The seed is also used whole in curries and pickles. They are often heated in oil to destroy their pungency and give them a nutty flavor.
Roots: The root of some forms of this species is edible. Sprouted seeds can be added to salads.
Medicinal:
Although not usually used medicinally, the seed is a warming stimulant herb with antibiotic effects. Reported to be anodyne, aperitif, diuretic, emetic, rubefacient, and stimulant, Brown Mustard is a folk remedy for arthritis, foot ache, lumbago, and rheumatism. The seed is used in the treatment of tumours in China. In Korea, the seeds are used in the treatment of abscesses, colds, lumbago, rheumatism, and stomach disorders. The root is used as a galactagogue in Africa. Ingestion may impart a body odor repellent to mosquitoes. Mustard oil is used in the treatment of skin eruptions and ulcers. Believed to be aperient and tonic, the volatile oil is used as a counter-irritant and stimulant. In Java the plant is used as an anti-syphilitic emmenagogue. Leaves applied to the forehead are said to relieve headache. The Chinese eat the leaves in soups for bladder, inflammation or hemorrhage.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: According to some studies, mustard deters flea beetles and aphids from collards and Brussels sprouts. Brussels sprouts and collards intercropped with wild mustard had fewer cabbage aphids; collards had fewer flea beetles. Cultivated and weedy mustard species are reputed to improve the vigor of beans, grapevines, and fruit trees.
Companions: Grow mustard as a border or strip planting in gardens, orchards, or vineyards.
Enemies: Gardening lore recommends keeping mustard plants away from turnips. Wild mustard may bring in more troubles to the garden than it prevents. It hosts insect pests, such as pea aphids, and may attract cutworms and other pests that will then move on to cabbage and other garden crops. Some studies indicated an allelopathic reaction from wild mustard that can stunt the growth of lettuce and other neighboring plants. It's probably best to confine your mustard plantings to cultivated types, and pull and destroy wild ones that crop up.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Flea beetles, caterpillars, aphids, snails and slugs are the most frequent pests.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: The ideal spot for mustards depends on the weather. If it's cool they should be planted on a sunny site. If it's warm then some shade is a good idea since mustards do not taste as good in warmer conditions. Mustards are in and out of the ground quickly, so are often used for intercropping between slower growing crops, rather than being given their own area.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 55°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Mustard germinates and grows quickly (if the soil is at least 45 degrees) so is usually planted outdoors.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 6"-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Intensive beds: Plant mustard 6" to 12" apart.
Spring Crop
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Mustard is usually direct sown, starting 4 weeks before the last frost date, so they have time to mature before it gets warm. They are somewhat prone to bolting when planted in spring and definitely do better as a fall and winter crop.
1. Broadcast the seed and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of soil (or a mix of half soil and half compost). It doesn’t seem to mind crowding, but should eventually be thinned to the proper spacing (eat the thinnings). It can also be sown in rows (sow seed 1/2˝ deep and 1/2˝ apart).
Fall Crop:
8-10 weeks before first frost date: Mustards generally work best as a fall crop and (like many Brassicas) cold weather actually improves their flavor.
1. Broadcast seed and then cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of soil (or a mix of half soil and half compost). It doesn’t seem to mind crowding, but should eventually be thinned to the proper spacing (eat the thinnings). It can also be sown in rows (sow seed 1/2˝ deep and 1/2˝ apart).
Support: No
Crop Care:
The plants need even watering and cool temperatures. If there is a slow down or interruption in growth they may bolt prematurely. If they do bolt, don't worry. You can eat the flower stalks like Broccoli Raab.
Water Needs: Moderate. If you want tasty, mild flavored mustard greens (and you do) you must keep the soil moist at all times. If the soil is too dry the plants will develop a bitter and pungent flavor.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. The Mustards need fertile soil to produce well.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 inch regularly, 1 time a week For best flavor it is important to keep the soil moist at all times. Fortunately this isn't usually a problem in cool weather. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after planting: 1 inch apart, after planting, 1 time a week If you desire delicious young tender Mustard Greens you can plant Mustard Greens closer together than the variety requirements but you must constantly thin the outer leaves.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Compost tea, 3 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., when 3" tall, 1 time. After thinning the plants to their final spacing you should feed them with a foliar fertilizer such as compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed).
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
You can decide when the leaves are ready based on your needs. They can be ready when they are small or you can wait for full growth.
Storage:
Mustards can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 7 days (how long depends upon the variety).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 3-7 days
Seed Saving:
It's easy to save seed from these annuals. Just treat them like kale and gather the seed at the appropriate time. Be aware that it can become a weed if it gets established (though perhaps not an unwelcome one).
Mustard can produce far more seed than you need for propagation. You can use the surplus for growing cut- and come-again salad greens and micro-greens, or for sprouting like alfalfa (they make excellent, slightly spicy sprouts). They can even be used for making the condiment mustard.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Spicy and richly flavored.
Culinary Use:
Mustard greens are versatile and can be braised, steamed, sautéed or made into chips. Their spicy favor goes well when cooked simply with garlic or onions. Mustard greens also make an excellent side dish to serve with fish or meat.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A peppery flavor that can range from mild to hot, this is one of the most highly prized cooked vegetables in the Orient. The leaves can also be eaten raw, when finely shredded they make a very acceptable addition to mixed salads. The protein extracted from the leaves mixes well with banana pulp and is well adapted as a pie filling.
Flowers and young flowering stems: raw or cooked. Sweet and succulent.
Seed: An edible semi-drying oil is obtained from the seed. The seed contains 25 - 30% oil. The seed is used as a mustard flavoring. It is the source of "brown mustard", a prepared mustard that is milder than that produced from other species. Pungency of mustard develops when cold water is added to the ground-up seed - an enzyme (myrosin) acts on a glycoside (sinigrin) to produce a sulphur compound. The reaction takes 10 - 15 minutes. Mixing with hot water or vinegar, or adding salt, inhibits the enzyme and produces a mild bitter mustard. The seed is also used whole in curries and pickles. They are often heated in oil to destroy their pungency and give them a nutty flavor.
Roots: The root of some forms of this species is edible. Sprouted seeds can be added to salads.
Medicinal:
Although not usually used medicinally, the seed is a warming stimulant herb with antibiotic effects. Reported to be anodyne, aperitif, diuretic, emetic, rubefacient, and stimulant, Brown Mustard is a folk remedy for arthritis, foot ache, lumbago, and rheumatism. The seed is used in the treatment of tumours in China. In Korea, the seeds are used in the treatment of abscesses, colds, lumbago, rheumatism, and stomach disorders. The root is used as a galactagogue in Africa. Ingestion may impart a body odor repellent to mosquitoes. Mustard oil is used in the treatment of skin eruptions and ulcers. Believed to be aperient and tonic, the volatile oil is used as a counter-irritant and stimulant. In Java the plant is used as an anti-syphilitic emmenagogue. Leaves applied to the forehead are said to relieve headache. The Chinese eat the leaves in soups for bladder, inflammation or hemorrhage.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: According to some studies, mustard deters flea beetles and aphids from collards and Brussels sprouts. Brussels sprouts and collards intercropped with wild mustard had fewer cabbage aphids; collards had fewer flea beetles. Cultivated and weedy mustard species are reputed to improve the vigor of beans, grapevines, and fruit trees.
Companions: Grow mustard as a border or strip planting in gardens, orchards, or vineyards.
Enemies: Gardening lore recommends keeping mustard plants away from turnips. Wild mustard may bring in more troubles to the garden than it prevents. It hosts insect pests, such as pea aphids, and may attract cutworms and other pests that will then move on to cabbage and other garden crops. Some studies indicated an allelopathic reaction from wild mustard that can stunt the growth of lettuce and other neighboring plants. It's probably best to confine your mustard plantings to cultivated types, and pull and destroy wild ones that crop up.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Flea beetles, caterpillars, aphids, snails and slugs are the most frequent pests.
Okra
How to Grow Okra
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 0 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 2-4 weeks before last frost date. Soaking the seed overnight prior to planting may speed germination. Sow the seeds in cell packs or soil blocks as Okra doesn't like root disturbance. Start seed 2 to 3 weeks before the last frost date and plant out about a month later.
Transplant Outdoors:
4 weeks after last frost date:
Rows: Space the plants 12"-18" apart, in rows 24"-36" apart depending on the variety.
Beds: Space the plants 18" apart (2 rows of plants down the bed works well).
Warm, Hot: Okra is heat loving. Sow seeds outside in spring after all danger of frost has passed, when the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees F. It's a good succession plant after early, spring-maturing crops. Expect good yields on this 4 foot tall, bushy plant. If the growing season is short, you might use cloches or black plastic to warm the soil.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Spacing: 8"-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Sow the seeds directly in the soil once it has warmed up, about 4 to 6" apart, and then thin the seedlings as needed to allow each plant enough room. Plants should have a final spacing of 12".
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Okra is heat loving. Sow seeds outside in spring after all danger of frost has passed, when the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees F. It's a good succession plant after early, spring-maturing crops. Expect good yields on this 4 foot tall, bushy plant. If the growing season is short, you might use cloches or black plastic to warm the soil.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 8"-12". 1 plants per sq ft. Sow the seeds directly in the soil once it has warmed up, about 4 to 6" apart, and then thin the seedlings as needed to allow each plant enough room. Plants should have a final spacing of 12".
Summer Crop: 3-5 weeks after last frost date. Okra can be direct sown if your growing season is long enough. Sow the seeds a month after the last frost, when the soil has warmed up to at least 60˚ F and the air temperature is 75˚ F. Plant 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil. Sow the seeds 6" apart and later thin to the desired spacing.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Okra isn't difficult to grow, so long as it has hot weather (two months above 85 degrees), a fertile soil and a steady supply of water.
Water Needs: High. Okra must have a steady supply of water at all times. It shouldn't be too wet, however, as the plants are prone to fungus diseases when growing in cool moist conditions. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week Okra is somewhat drought tolerant, but will produce more if kept well-watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Okra is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for best growth (it especially loves nitrogen). If your soil isn't very fertile give them a liquid feed every 2 to 3 weeks.
Side Dressing, soil is at growing temp: Mulch, 2 inches, soil is at growing temp. Apply mulch to keep the soil moist and keep down weeds
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallons) per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2-3 weeks.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: When the pods get to be 3 to 9" long. Don't leave them too long or they will get woody.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: The flowers should appear about 60 days after planting, but cold weather, or lack of moisture, may cause them to drop off without being pollinated. The pods are ready about 5 days after fertilization. They are at their best when still soft and small (2˝ to 3˝ long), while they still snap easily. As they get bigger than this, they start to get tough and are not so good.
How: Pick the new pods conscientiously every day or two. The more you pick, the more you get. If any pods mature on the plant, they may cause the plant to stop producing. The plants grow fast in warm weather and can produce a lot of pods. Use them as soon as possible after harvest, as their flavor deteriorates quickly.
Some people develop a contact dermatitis while handling okra; avoid the itchiness by wearing a long-sleeved shirt and gloves.
Storage:
Okra freezes well, just wash the pods, put them in freezer bags (either whole of sliced) and freeze. Some people blanch them first by putting them in boiling water for 3 - 4 minutes.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Okra pods are at their best when only 2-3" long, but these don't keep for more than 2-3 days (they are best eaten the same day). Larger pods can be stored in the fridge for up to a week in a plastic bag (they will eventually be damaged by temperatures 45 degrees F).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-7 days
Okra pods can be dried to preserve them. Their flavor is quite different from the fresh pods, but it is still good.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: days
Canned and pickled okra is an excellent option for long-term storage.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Okra will self-pollinate if no other plants are growing nearby. However, the flowers are very attractive to bees and if any other okra is growing within a mile, they will probably be cross-pollinated.
For this reason, you should only grow one variety at a time, or you must isolate the plants (in a cage, by bagging, or by distance). To ensure genetic variability you should save the seed from at least 5 plants. Of course you should also select the best plants to produce seed.
The fruit will take about 4 or 5 weeks to fully ripen (and the plants may well stop producing new fruits). The dry pods are even more irritating than the green pods, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting.
Separate the seeds from the dry pods and dry thoroughly before storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
Tender with a distinctive flavor.
Culinary Use:
Okra can be sautéed, fried, roasted, steamed, stir-fried and used in stews as well as canned or pickled. It contains a gelatinous substance that coats the Okra when cooked for extended periods of time. If you don't want this gelatinous consistency, sauté or stir-fry the okra in hot oil quickly and the moisture will stay within the pod.
Immature fruit: cooked on their own or added to soups etc. They can be used fresh or dried. Mucilaginous, they are commonly used as a thickening for soups, stews and sauces. The fruits are rich in pectin and are also a fair source of iron and calcium. The fruit should be harvested whilst young, older fruits soon become fibrous. The fruit can be up to 20 cm long.
Seed: cooked or ground into a meal and used in making bread or made into "tofu" or "tempeh". The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. Probably the best of the coffee substitutes. The seed contains up to 22% of an edible oil. The leaves, flower buds, flowers and calyces can be eaten cooked as greens. The leaves can be dried, crushed into a powder and stored for later use. They are also used as a flavoring.
Root: it is edible but very fibrous. Mucilaginous, without very much flavor.
Medicinal:
The roots are very rich in mucilage, having a strongly demulcent action. They are said by some to be better than marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis). This mucilage can be used as a plasma replacement. An infusion of the roots is used in the treatment of syphilis. The juice of the roots is used externally in Nepal to treat cuts, wounds and boils. The leaves furnish an emollient poultice. A decoction of the immature capsules is demulcent, diuretic and emollient. It is used in the treatment of catarrhal infections, ardor urinae, dysuria and gonorrhea. The seeds are antispasmodic, cordial and stimulant. An infusion of the roasted seeds has sudorific properties.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant lettuce around your okra plants and they will shade the lettuce in the summer giving you some more growing time. Okra also does well with peppers and eggplants as it helps protect these brittle stemmed plants from high winds. It also gets along with basil, cucumbers, melons, and black eyed peas. For planting with the peas plant your Okra first. When the okra is up and established plant the peas around the edges of the okra planting. You may find that the peas are far less bothered by aphids when near okra.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch out for aphids, spider mites, slugs and whiteflies. Root rot may occur in poorly drained soils. Susceptible to powdery mildew. Some people develop skin rashes when working with this plant (wear gloves to avoid contact with stems and leaves).
Other Uses:
A fiber obtained from the stems is used as a substitute for jute. It is also used in making paper and textiles. The fibers are about 2.4 mm long. When used for paper the stems are harvested in late summer or autumn after the edible seedpods have been harvested, the leaves are removed and the stems are steamed until the fibers can be stripped off. The fibers are cooked for 2 hours with lye and then put in a ball mill for 3 hours. The paper is cream colored. A decoction of the root or of the seeds is used as a size for paper.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 0 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 2-4 weeks before last frost date. Soaking the seed overnight prior to planting may speed germination. Sow the seeds in cell packs or soil blocks as Okra doesn't like root disturbance. Start seed 2 to 3 weeks before the last frost date and plant out about a month later.
Transplant Outdoors:
4 weeks after last frost date:
Rows: Space the plants 12"-18" apart, in rows 24"-36" apart depending on the variety.
Beds: Space the plants 18" apart (2 rows of plants down the bed works well).
Warm, Hot: Okra is heat loving. Sow seeds outside in spring after all danger of frost has passed, when the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees F. It's a good succession plant after early, spring-maturing crops. Expect good yields on this 4 foot tall, bushy plant. If the growing season is short, you might use cloches or black plastic to warm the soil.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Spacing: 8"-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Sow the seeds directly in the soil once it has warmed up, about 4 to 6" apart, and then thin the seedlings as needed to allow each plant enough room. Plants should have a final spacing of 12".
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Okra is heat loving. Sow seeds outside in spring after all danger of frost has passed, when the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees F. It's a good succession plant after early, spring-maturing crops. Expect good yields on this 4 foot tall, bushy plant. If the growing season is short, you might use cloches or black plastic to warm the soil.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 8"-12". 1 plants per sq ft. Sow the seeds directly in the soil once it has warmed up, about 4 to 6" apart, and then thin the seedlings as needed to allow each plant enough room. Plants should have a final spacing of 12".
Summer Crop: 3-5 weeks after last frost date. Okra can be direct sown if your growing season is long enough. Sow the seeds a month after the last frost, when the soil has warmed up to at least 60˚ F and the air temperature is 75˚ F. Plant 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil. Sow the seeds 6" apart and later thin to the desired spacing.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Okra isn't difficult to grow, so long as it has hot weather (two months above 85 degrees), a fertile soil and a steady supply of water.
Water Needs: High. Okra must have a steady supply of water at all times. It shouldn't be too wet, however, as the plants are prone to fungus diseases when growing in cool moist conditions. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week Okra is somewhat drought tolerant, but will produce more if kept well-watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Okra is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for best growth (it especially loves nitrogen). If your soil isn't very fertile give them a liquid feed every 2 to 3 weeks.
Side Dressing, soil is at growing temp: Mulch, 2 inches, soil is at growing temp. Apply mulch to keep the soil moist and keep down weeds
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallons) per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2-3 weeks.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: When the pods get to be 3 to 9" long. Don't leave them too long or they will get woody.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: The flowers should appear about 60 days after planting, but cold weather, or lack of moisture, may cause them to drop off without being pollinated. The pods are ready about 5 days after fertilization. They are at their best when still soft and small (2˝ to 3˝ long), while they still snap easily. As they get bigger than this, they start to get tough and are not so good.
How: Pick the new pods conscientiously every day or two. The more you pick, the more you get. If any pods mature on the plant, they may cause the plant to stop producing. The plants grow fast in warm weather and can produce a lot of pods. Use them as soon as possible after harvest, as their flavor deteriorates quickly.
Some people develop a contact dermatitis while handling okra; avoid the itchiness by wearing a long-sleeved shirt and gloves.
Storage:
Okra freezes well, just wash the pods, put them in freezer bags (either whole of sliced) and freeze. Some people blanch them first by putting them in boiling water for 3 - 4 minutes.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Okra pods are at their best when only 2-3" long, but these don't keep for more than 2-3 days (they are best eaten the same day). Larger pods can be stored in the fridge for up to a week in a plastic bag (they will eventually be damaged by temperatures 45 degrees F).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-7 days
Okra pods can be dried to preserve them. Their flavor is quite different from the fresh pods, but it is still good.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: days
Canned and pickled okra is an excellent option for long-term storage.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Okra will self-pollinate if no other plants are growing nearby. However, the flowers are very attractive to bees and if any other okra is growing within a mile, they will probably be cross-pollinated.
For this reason, you should only grow one variety at a time, or you must isolate the plants (in a cage, by bagging, or by distance). To ensure genetic variability you should save the seed from at least 5 plants. Of course you should also select the best plants to produce seed.
The fruit will take about 4 or 5 weeks to fully ripen (and the plants may well stop producing new fruits). The dry pods are even more irritating than the green pods, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting.
Separate the seeds from the dry pods and dry thoroughly before storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary:
Taste:
Tender with a distinctive flavor.
Culinary Use:
Okra can be sautéed, fried, roasted, steamed, stir-fried and used in stews as well as canned or pickled. It contains a gelatinous substance that coats the Okra when cooked for extended periods of time. If you don't want this gelatinous consistency, sauté or stir-fry the okra in hot oil quickly and the moisture will stay within the pod.
Immature fruit: cooked on their own or added to soups etc. They can be used fresh or dried. Mucilaginous, they are commonly used as a thickening for soups, stews and sauces. The fruits are rich in pectin and are also a fair source of iron and calcium. The fruit should be harvested whilst young, older fruits soon become fibrous. The fruit can be up to 20 cm long.
Seed: cooked or ground into a meal and used in making bread or made into "tofu" or "tempeh". The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. Probably the best of the coffee substitutes. The seed contains up to 22% of an edible oil. The leaves, flower buds, flowers and calyces can be eaten cooked as greens. The leaves can be dried, crushed into a powder and stored for later use. They are also used as a flavoring.
Root: it is edible but very fibrous. Mucilaginous, without very much flavor.
Medicinal:
The roots are very rich in mucilage, having a strongly demulcent action. They are said by some to be better than marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis). This mucilage can be used as a plasma replacement. An infusion of the roots is used in the treatment of syphilis. The juice of the roots is used externally in Nepal to treat cuts, wounds and boils. The leaves furnish an emollient poultice. A decoction of the immature capsules is demulcent, diuretic and emollient. It is used in the treatment of catarrhal infections, ardor urinae, dysuria and gonorrhea. The seeds are antispasmodic, cordial and stimulant. An infusion of the roasted seeds has sudorific properties.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant lettuce around your okra plants and they will shade the lettuce in the summer giving you some more growing time. Okra also does well with peppers and eggplants as it helps protect these brittle stemmed plants from high winds. It also gets along with basil, cucumbers, melons, and black eyed peas. For planting with the peas plant your Okra first. When the okra is up and established plant the peas around the edges of the okra planting. You may find that the peas are far less bothered by aphids when near okra.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch out for aphids, spider mites, slugs and whiteflies. Root rot may occur in poorly drained soils. Susceptible to powdery mildew. Some people develop skin rashes when working with this plant (wear gloves to avoid contact with stems and leaves).
Other Uses:
A fiber obtained from the stems is used as a substitute for jute. It is also used in making paper and textiles. The fibers are about 2.4 mm long. When used for paper the stems are harvested in late summer or autumn after the edible seedpods have been harvested, the leaves are removed and the stems are steamed until the fibers can be stripped off. The fibers are cooked for 2 hours with lye and then put in a ball mill for 3 hours. The paper is cream colored. A decoction of the root or of the seeds is used as a size for paper.
Onion
How to Grow Onion
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 16 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 34 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
22 weeks before first frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Germinate:
16 weeks before last frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Transplant Outdoors:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Planting Seedlings If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
Planting Seedlings: If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Spacing: 3-6", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Large bulbs: 4" to 5" apart
Medium bulbs: 3" to 4" apart
Pickling bulbs: 2" to 3" apart
Green Onions: 2" to 3" apart
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 3-6", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Large bulbs: 4" to 5" apart
Medium bulbs: 3" to 4" apart
Pickling bulbs: 2" to 3" apart
Green Onions: 2" to 3" apart
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Onions are very hardy and can be direct sown in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. This is slower than transplanting of course, but easier, and can work well in cooler areas.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Onions should grow as fast as possible, so by the time the day length is right for bulbing-they will have stored enough food to produce large bulbs. This means spacing them properly and giving them all the nutrients and water they need. The most important thing to remember about growing this biennial is that it is day length sensitive. It is programmed to produce bulbs when the appropriate day length arrives, no matter how big or small it is. It is your job as a gardener to get the plants as big as possible before the onset of bulbing. To do this you must use a variety that is appropriate for the day length of your location. You should also plant them as early as is safe, so they can put on the maximum amount of vegetative growth before bulbing.
Planting: There are several ways to grow onions. You can use seed, transplants or sets. All of these are fully hardy and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring. When you first try growing onions it isn't a bad idea to use two different planting methods at the same time to see which works best for you.
Seed: Growing your own Onions from seed gives you the greatest choice of varieties. The problem with Onion seeds is that they are slow, growing only half as fast as lettuce, so you have to start them early. Onion seed is also the shortest lived of all common vegetables, so it is important that they are fresh. You can use seed to grow sets or transplants, or to sow directly in the ground.
Onion sets: These are small onion bulbs (3/8" to 3/4" in diameter) grown in crowded conditions so as to induce premature bulbing. They are the easiest way to grow onions, as you don't have to worry about germination, and actually start with a small bulb.
Buying sets: Every spring, sets are readily available in every garden center, so they are probably the common way to grow onions. The biggest problem with buying sets is that there are very few varieties available (some packages don't even say what type they are). However, if you buy them locally they should work well.
Growing sets: This is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage of letting you grow whatever variety you want. Transplants: Using transplants gives you the largest onion bulbs and produces them a lot faster than by direct sowing. You can start these yourself in mid winter or buy them mail order.
Water Needs: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. The plants need easily available nutrients to keep the plants growing rapidly, so give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 3 weeks.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Onions don’t produce much foliage or get very big, so they can’t compete with weeds very well. This means that competition from weeds can be a major problem, especially for direct sown crops. It is critical that they are weeded carefully for at least their first two months in the ground (then apply a mulch to keep weeds down). It's best to weed your onions by hand, as their shallow roots are easily damaged by careless hoeing.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inches, after planting, 1 time.
OPTIONAL: Onion foliage is very sparse and doesn’t shade the soil very much, so a mulch is helpful to conserve soil moisture and keep down weeds. It will also insulate the soil however, so don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up. If you have slugs and snails you probably won't want to mulch, since it will provide the pests with habitat as they feast on your onions.
Watering, after planting: Water, 0.5 inches, after planting, 2 times a week Onions should receive frequent shallow watering (there’s no point watering these shallow rooted plants very deeply). It is best to water in the morning so the tops can dry out quickly, as this reduces the potential for downy mildew. Stop watering the bulbs when they stop enlarging, they need to be dry for curing.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 1 time. Remove any flower stalks that appear so all of the plants energy can go into nourishing bulb growth.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Wait until the tops fall over and start to change color, this is a sign they are mature. In cool, humid areas when all tops have fallen; in cool, dry areas when half the tops have fallen; and in warm areas when a third of the tops have fallen. Loosen the soil around the onion with a fork and gently pull it from the soil.
Storage:
Before storing any bulbs you should examine them carefully. The papery outer skin should be in good condition, there should be no bruising and the neck should be dry and papery. If the neck is still thick it didn’t mature properly and won’t store very well. These bulbs should be used first.
Store the bulbs in mesh bags (old panty hose works well), or make Onion braids. Keep them in a cool, dry place at 32 to 50˚ F and 60% humidity. Excessive moisture can encourage sprouting.
Onion braids look great hanging in the kitchen, but it is too warm and dry to store them there for any length of time (they will dry out). You could make small braids and bring them into the kitchen as you need them.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Onions are cross-pollinated by insects but this isn't usually a problem as there are no close wild relatives and most people don't let their onions flower.
Onions are biennial and will flower in the spring of their second year. In mild climates you can leave the bulbs in the ground over the winter, but in cold climates you will have to store them inside and re-plant them in spring.
Use the best onions you have for seed. Larger bulbs produce larger flowers (they sometimes get to 4 feet in height) and more seed.
Make sure the flower heads are thoroughly dry before collecting seed, then remove the seed from the head and dry it thoroughly before storing. Onion seed doesn't remain viable for very long; 2 or 3 years at the most.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet tender flavor.
Culinary Use: Cut off the root and top along with removing the outermost skin to prepare for cooking. Red onions are best used for salads, braising, caramelizing, or grilling because of their added sweetness. No kitchen is complete without red onions.
Bulb: raw or cooked. A very versatile food, the bulb can be 10 cm or more in diameter and is widely used in most countries of the world. Eaten raw, it can be sliced up and used in salads, sandwich fillings etc, it can be baked or boiled as a vegetable in its own right and is also commonly used as a flavoring in soups, stews and many other cooked dishes. Some cultivars have been selected for their smaller and often hotter bulbs and these are used for making pickles.
Leaves: raw or cooked. There are some cultivars, the spring onions, that have been selected for their leaves and are used in salads whilst still young and actively growing - the bulb is much smaller than in other cultivars and is usually eaten with the leaves. By successional sowing, they can be available at any time of the year.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads. The flowers are somewhat dry and are less pleasant than many other species. The seeds are sprouted and eaten. They have a delicious onion flavor.
Known Hazards: There have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of this plant. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Medicinal:
Although rarely used specifically as a medicinal herb, the onion has a wide range of beneficial actions on the body and when eaten (especially raw) on a regular basis will promote the general health of the body. The bulb is anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, hypoglycemic, hypotensive, lithontripic, stomachic and tonic. When used regularly in the diet it offsets tendencies towards angina, arteriosclerosis and heart attack. It is also useful in preventing oral infection and tooth decay. Baked onions can be used as a poultice to remove pus from sores. Fresh onion juice is a very useful first aid treatment for bee and wasp stings, bites, grazes or fungal skin complaints. When warmed the juice can be dropped into the ear to treat earache. It also aids the formation of scar tissue on wounds, thus speeding up the healing process, and has been used as a cosmetic to remove freckles. Bulbs of red cultivars are harvested when mature in the summer and used to make a homeopathic remedy. This is used particularly in the treatment of people whose symptoms include running eyes and nose.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavor. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Bulb rot may occur in overly moist soils. Slugs attack young plants. Mildew, rust and leaf spots may appear. Watch for onion maggots and thrips.
Other Uses:
The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent and can also be rubbed onto the skin to repel insects. The plant juice can be used as a rust preventative on metals and as a polish for copper and glass. A yellow-brown dye is obtained from the skins of the bulbs. Onion juice rubbed into the skin is said to promote the growth of hair and to be a remedy for baldness. It is also used as a cosmetic to get rid of freckles. The growing plant is said to repel insects and moles. A spray made by pouring enough boiling water to cover 1 kg of chopped unpeeled onions is said to increase the resistance of other plants to diseases and parasites.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 16 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 34 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
22 weeks before first frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Germinate:
16 weeks before last frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Transplant Outdoors:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Planting Seedlings If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
Planting Seedlings: If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Spacing: 3-6", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Large bulbs: 4" to 5" apart
Medium bulbs: 3" to 4" apart
Pickling bulbs: 2" to 3" apart
Green Onions: 2" to 3" apart
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 3-6", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Large bulbs: 4" to 5" apart
Medium bulbs: 3" to 4" apart
Pickling bulbs: 2" to 3" apart
Green Onions: 2" to 3" apart
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Onions are very hardy and can be direct sown in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. This is slower than transplanting of course, but easier, and can work well in cooler areas.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Onions should grow as fast as possible, so by the time the day length is right for bulbing-they will have stored enough food to produce large bulbs. This means spacing them properly and giving them all the nutrients and water they need. The most important thing to remember about growing this biennial is that it is day length sensitive. It is programmed to produce bulbs when the appropriate day length arrives, no matter how big or small it is. It is your job as a gardener to get the plants as big as possible before the onset of bulbing. To do this you must use a variety that is appropriate for the day length of your location. You should also plant them as early as is safe, so they can put on the maximum amount of vegetative growth before bulbing.
Planting: There are several ways to grow onions. You can use seed, transplants or sets. All of these are fully hardy and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring. When you first try growing onions it isn't a bad idea to use two different planting methods at the same time to see which works best for you.
Seed: Growing your own Onions from seed gives you the greatest choice of varieties. The problem with Onion seeds is that they are slow, growing only half as fast as lettuce, so you have to start them early. Onion seed is also the shortest lived of all common vegetables, so it is important that they are fresh. You can use seed to grow sets or transplants, or to sow directly in the ground.
Onion sets: These are small onion bulbs (3/8" to 3/4" in diameter) grown in crowded conditions so as to induce premature bulbing. They are the easiest way to grow onions, as you don't have to worry about germination, and actually start with a small bulb.
Buying sets: Every spring, sets are readily available in every garden center, so they are probably the common way to grow onions. The biggest problem with buying sets is that there are very few varieties available (some packages don't even say what type they are). However, if you buy them locally they should work well.
Growing sets: This is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage of letting you grow whatever variety you want. Transplants: Using transplants gives you the largest onion bulbs and produces them a lot faster than by direct sowing. You can start these yourself in mid winter or buy them mail order.
Water Needs: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. The plants need easily available nutrients to keep the plants growing rapidly, so give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 3 weeks.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Onions don’t produce much foliage or get very big, so they can’t compete with weeds very well. This means that competition from weeds can be a major problem, especially for direct sown crops. It is critical that they are weeded carefully for at least their first two months in the ground (then apply a mulch to keep weeds down). It's best to weed your onions by hand, as their shallow roots are easily damaged by careless hoeing.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inches, after planting, 1 time.
OPTIONAL: Onion foliage is very sparse and doesn’t shade the soil very much, so a mulch is helpful to conserve soil moisture and keep down weeds. It will also insulate the soil however, so don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up. If you have slugs and snails you probably won't want to mulch, since it will provide the pests with habitat as they feast on your onions.
Watering, after planting: Water, 0.5 inches, after planting, 2 times a week Onions should receive frequent shallow watering (there’s no point watering these shallow rooted plants very deeply). It is best to water in the morning so the tops can dry out quickly, as this reduces the potential for downy mildew. Stop watering the bulbs when they stop enlarging, they need to be dry for curing.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 1 time. Remove any flower stalks that appear so all of the plants energy can go into nourishing bulb growth.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Wait until the tops fall over and start to change color, this is a sign they are mature. In cool, humid areas when all tops have fallen; in cool, dry areas when half the tops have fallen; and in warm areas when a third of the tops have fallen. Loosen the soil around the onion with a fork and gently pull it from the soil.
Storage:
Before storing any bulbs you should examine them carefully. The papery outer skin should be in good condition, there should be no bruising and the neck should be dry and papery. If the neck is still thick it didn’t mature properly and won’t store very well. These bulbs should be used first.
Store the bulbs in mesh bags (old panty hose works well), or make Onion braids. Keep them in a cool, dry place at 32 to 50˚ F and 60% humidity. Excessive moisture can encourage sprouting.
Onion braids look great hanging in the kitchen, but it is too warm and dry to store them there for any length of time (they will dry out). You could make small braids and bring them into the kitchen as you need them.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
Onions are cross-pollinated by insects but this isn't usually a problem as there are no close wild relatives and most people don't let their onions flower.
Onions are biennial and will flower in the spring of their second year. In mild climates you can leave the bulbs in the ground over the winter, but in cold climates you will have to store them inside and re-plant them in spring.
Use the best onions you have for seed. Larger bulbs produce larger flowers (they sometimes get to 4 feet in height) and more seed.
Make sure the flower heads are thoroughly dry before collecting seed, then remove the seed from the head and dry it thoroughly before storing. Onion seed doesn't remain viable for very long; 2 or 3 years at the most.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet tender flavor.
Culinary Use: Cut off the root and top along with removing the outermost skin to prepare for cooking. Red onions are best used for salads, braising, caramelizing, or grilling because of their added sweetness. No kitchen is complete without red onions.
Bulb: raw or cooked. A very versatile food, the bulb can be 10 cm or more in diameter and is widely used in most countries of the world. Eaten raw, it can be sliced up and used in salads, sandwich fillings etc, it can be baked or boiled as a vegetable in its own right and is also commonly used as a flavoring in soups, stews and many other cooked dishes. Some cultivars have been selected for their smaller and often hotter bulbs and these are used for making pickles.
Leaves: raw or cooked. There are some cultivars, the spring onions, that have been selected for their leaves and are used in salads whilst still young and actively growing - the bulb is much smaller than in other cultivars and is usually eaten with the leaves. By successional sowing, they can be available at any time of the year.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads. The flowers are somewhat dry and are less pleasant than many other species. The seeds are sprouted and eaten. They have a delicious onion flavor.
Known Hazards: There have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of this plant. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Medicinal:
Although rarely used specifically as a medicinal herb, the onion has a wide range of beneficial actions on the body and when eaten (especially raw) on a regular basis will promote the general health of the body. The bulb is anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, hypoglycemic, hypotensive, lithontripic, stomachic and tonic. When used regularly in the diet it offsets tendencies towards angina, arteriosclerosis and heart attack. It is also useful in preventing oral infection and tooth decay. Baked onions can be used as a poultice to remove pus from sores. Fresh onion juice is a very useful first aid treatment for bee and wasp stings, bites, grazes or fungal skin complaints. When warmed the juice can be dropped into the ear to treat earache. It also aids the formation of scar tissue on wounds, thus speeding up the healing process, and has been used as a cosmetic to remove freckles. Bulbs of red cultivars are harvested when mature in the summer and used to make a homeopathic remedy. This is used particularly in the treatment of people whose symptoms include running eyes and nose.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavor. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Bulb rot may occur in overly moist soils. Slugs attack young plants. Mildew, rust and leaf spots may appear. Watch for onion maggots and thrips.
Other Uses:
The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent and can also be rubbed onto the skin to repel insects. The plant juice can be used as a rust preventative on metals and as a polish for copper and glass. A yellow-brown dye is obtained from the skins of the bulbs. Onion juice rubbed into the skin is said to promote the growth of hair and to be a remedy for baldness. It is also used as a cosmetic to get rid of freckles. The growing plant is said to repel insects and moles. A spray made by pouring enough boiling water to cover 1 kg of chopped unpeeled onions is said to increase the resistance of other plants to diseases and parasites.
Parsley
How to Grow Parlsey
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 90°F, optimal 60°F to 85°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 11 (Spring/Summer), 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 4-8 weeks before last frost date. Parsley is very hardy and can be started indoors up to 8 weeks before the last frost date. It is fairly slow growing when young, so is commonly grown from transplants as this gives the fastest harvest and saves on bed space. These don't mind root disturbance, so you can use flats, cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Parsley is slow to germinate and grow to transplant size, but otherwise it is pretty easy to grow.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Parsley is quite hardy yet it will do best if planted out 2 weeks after the last frost date. They won't grow very much if its too cold. In cool climates you may be better off keeping it inside until the daytime temperatures average 65˚ F - 70˚ F degrees. Plant in full sun or half-day (or filtered) sun if climate is very hot.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Parsley prefers loose, moderately fertile soil with plenty of added organic matter. Water lightly.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Parsley takes a long time to germinate and does best in warm soil between 70˚- 85˚ F (it doesn't germinate well at higher temperatures).
Spacing: 6-10", 4 plants per sq ft. Parsley can be planted as close as 6" together if you plan to harvest the leaves as a cut-and-come-again plant. If you want to harvest the whole plant, allow for a wider spacing of about 8 to 10" so the leaves have enough room to develop.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Parsley prefers loose, moderately fertile soil with plenty of added organic matter. Water lightly.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Parsley takes a long time to germinate and does best in warm soil between 70˚- 85˚ F (it doesn't germinate well at higher temperatures).
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 6-10", 4 plants per sq ft. Parsley can be planted as close as 6" together if you plan to harvest the leaves as a cut-and-come-again plant. If you want to harvest the whole plant, allow for a wider spacing of about 8-10" so the leaves have enough room to develop.
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date: Parsley takes a long time to germinate and does best in warm soil between 70˚-85˚F (at higher temperatures it doesn't germinate well). Sow seed thinly into a well-worked fertile soil. Cover up to 1/4" deep. Parsley is slow to germinate so keep bed evenly moist and be patient. Using row covers to hold moisture and warmth during germination is helpful and helps to keep the birds from enjoying the seedlings. Eventually you will thin plants to 6 to 10" apart. We recommend sowing every 3 to 5" apart to begin, and then thin out the weaker plants as they get bigger so each plant has about 6 to 10" of space.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Parsley is a pretty independent plant and doesn't require much attention. Just keep it well watered and weeded.
Water Needs: Moderate. Parsley likes moist soil. If you think the plants might need water they probably do.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Parsley prefers a fertile soil with lots of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 1 cups, after planting, 1 time a month. Give the plant an occasional feed of compost tea to keep it growing well. Put this in the soil around the plant, taking care not to get it on the leaves.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can begin to harvest when it produces leaf stems with three segments. It's best once the plant has at least 8 to 10 leaves.
Storage:
Parsley can be dried for later use, though it loses a lot of its flavor. Hang it in bunches or lay it out on a screen to dry. When it is thoroughly dry it can be stored in an air tight container. It is absolutely essential that is thoroughly dry though, otherwise it will mold (if you see any condensation inside the closed jar it is not dry enough).
Storage Req: Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Parsley is best used fresh straight from the garden. If you want to pamper your parsley, it can be washed, wrapped in cotton towel and kept in the refrigerator for up to one week.
If you don't want to pamper it, just put it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Freezing is the best way to store parsley and retain the full fresh flavor (much better than drying). Blanch quickly, until the color brightens and then remove from the water. Dip in a bath of ice water to cool. Remove stems and chop leaves to a fine texture. Place in a freezer container and cover with water. Ice cube trays work best because they gives you individual servings.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0°F
Storage Length: 1-60 days
Seed Saving:
Parsley is a biennial and will flower and set seed in the spring of its second year. I just brush the ripe seeds into a paper bag (watch them carefully as they will fall when fully ripe) and dry them in a warm dry place (the greenhouse works well).
Parsley produces an abundance of seed and will self-sow if you let it.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Fresh and clean with a slightly peppery flavor.
Culinary Use: The flat types aren't as commonly used an edible garnish as the prettier curly types. It has a superior flavor however and can be added to just about any savory dish. It is an essential ingredient in many European and Western Asian cuisines. Parsley is considered one the essential herbs in the traditional French flavoring blend of "fines herbes." It is best to use fresh parsley, though it can also be dried very easily.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Parsley is frequently used as a garnish or as a flavoring in salads and many cooked dishes, but has too strong a flavor to be eaten in quantity for most palates. It is an ingredient of the herb mix "bouquet garni". The leaves should be harvested regularly in order to encourage fresh growth and get maximum yields. The leaves are difficult to dry but are easily frozen. For drying they require a well-ventilated room that receives long hours of sunlight - the leaves need to be quite crisp if they are to store. Very rich in iron, iodine and magnesium, parsley is also a good source of other minerals and the vitamins A, B and C. The stems can be dried and ground and used as a food coloring. A tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves, it is rich in vitamin C. An essential oil is obtained mainly from the leaves - it is used as a commercial food flavoring. The leaves yields about 1% essential oil, whilst about 6% is obtained from the seed. Some caution is advised on the use of this plant, especially the essential oil.
Known hazards: Parsley is said to contain the alleged 'psychotroph' myristicine. Excessive contact with the plant can cause skin inflammation. Although perfectly safe to eat and nutritious in amounts that are given in recipes, parsley is toxic in excess, especially when used as an essential oil.
Medicinal:
Parsley is a commonly grown culinary and medicinal herb that is often used as a domestic medicine. The fresh leaves are highly nutritious and can be considered a natural vitamin and mineral supplement in their own right. The plants prime use is as a diuretic where it is effective in ridding the body of stones and in treating jaundice, dropsy, cystitis etc. It is also a good detoxifier, helping the body to get rid of toxins via the urine and therefore helping in the treatment of a wide range of diseases such as rheumatism. The seed is a safe herb at normal doses, but in excess it can have toxic effects. Parsley should not be used by pregnant women because it is used to stimulate menstrual flow and can therefore provoke a miscarriage. All parts of the plant can be used medicinally, the root is the part most often used though the seeds have a stronger action. Parsley is anti-dandruff, antispasmodic, aperient, carminative, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactofuge, kidney, stomachic and tonic. An infusion of the roots and seeds is taken after childbirth to promote lactation and help contract the uterus. Parsley is also a mild laxative and is useful for treating anemia and convalescents. Caution is advised on the internal use of this herb, especially in the form of the essential oil. Excessive doses can cause liver and kidney damage, nerve inflammation and gastro-intestinal hemorrhage. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women or people with kidney diseases. A poultice of the leaves has been applied externally to soothe bites and stings, it is also said to be of value in treating tumors of a cancerous nature. It has been used to treat eye infections, whilst a wad of cotton soaked in the juice will relieve toothache or earache. It is also said to prevent hair loss and to make freckles disappear. If the leaves are kept close to the breasts of a nursing mother for a few days, the milk flow will cease.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base.
Enemies: Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Septoria leaf spot and stem rot. Carrot weevil, flea beetles, leafhoppers and tarnished plant bugs.
Other Uses:
A good companion plant, repelling insects from nearby plants. The juice is an effective mosquito repellent when it is rubbed into the skin and is also used to relieve the pain of stings and bites. An essential oil obtained from the plant is used in perfumeries for men. An infusion of the leaves is an excellent rinse for dark hair and also helps in the treatment of dandruff.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 90°F, optimal 60°F to 85°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 11 (Spring/Summer), 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 4-8 weeks before last frost date. Parsley is very hardy and can be started indoors up to 8 weeks before the last frost date. It is fairly slow growing when young, so is commonly grown from transplants as this gives the fastest harvest and saves on bed space. These don't mind root disturbance, so you can use flats, cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Parsley is slow to germinate and grow to transplant size, but otherwise it is pretty easy to grow.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Parsley is quite hardy yet it will do best if planted out 2 weeks after the last frost date. They won't grow very much if its too cold. In cool climates you may be better off keeping it inside until the daytime temperatures average 65˚ F - 70˚ F degrees. Plant in full sun or half-day (or filtered) sun if climate is very hot.
Cold, Cool, Warm: Parsley prefers loose, moderately fertile soil with plenty of added organic matter. Water lightly.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Parsley takes a long time to germinate and does best in warm soil between 70˚- 85˚ F (it doesn't germinate well at higher temperatures).
Spacing: 6-10", 4 plants per sq ft. Parsley can be planted as close as 6" together if you plan to harvest the leaves as a cut-and-come-again plant. If you want to harvest the whole plant, allow for a wider spacing of about 8 to 10" so the leaves have enough room to develop.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Parsley prefers loose, moderately fertile soil with plenty of added organic matter. Water lightly.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Parsley takes a long time to germinate and does best in warm soil between 70˚- 85˚ F (it doesn't germinate well at higher temperatures).
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and up to 3/4" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 6-10", 4 plants per sq ft. Parsley can be planted as close as 6" together if you plan to harvest the leaves as a cut-and-come-again plant. If you want to harvest the whole plant, allow for a wider spacing of about 8-10" so the leaves have enough room to develop.
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date: Parsley takes a long time to germinate and does best in warm soil between 70˚-85˚F (at higher temperatures it doesn't germinate well). Sow seed thinly into a well-worked fertile soil. Cover up to 1/4" deep. Parsley is slow to germinate so keep bed evenly moist and be patient. Using row covers to hold moisture and warmth during germination is helpful and helps to keep the birds from enjoying the seedlings. Eventually you will thin plants to 6 to 10" apart. We recommend sowing every 3 to 5" apart to begin, and then thin out the weaker plants as they get bigger so each plant has about 6 to 10" of space.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Parsley is a pretty independent plant and doesn't require much attention. Just keep it well watered and weeded.
Water Needs: Moderate. Parsley likes moist soil. If you think the plants might need water they probably do.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Parsley prefers a fertile soil with lots of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 1 cups, after planting, 1 time a month. Give the plant an occasional feed of compost tea to keep it growing well. Put this in the soil around the plant, taking care not to get it on the leaves.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can begin to harvest when it produces leaf stems with three segments. It's best once the plant has at least 8 to 10 leaves.
Storage:
Parsley can be dried for later use, though it loses a lot of its flavor. Hang it in bunches or lay it out on a screen to dry. When it is thoroughly dry it can be stored in an air tight container. It is absolutely essential that is thoroughly dry though, otherwise it will mold (if you see any condensation inside the closed jar it is not dry enough).
Storage Req: Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Parsley is best used fresh straight from the garden. If you want to pamper your parsley, it can be washed, wrapped in cotton towel and kept in the refrigerator for up to one week.
If you don't want to pamper it, just put it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Freezing is the best way to store parsley and retain the full fresh flavor (much better than drying). Blanch quickly, until the color brightens and then remove from the water. Dip in a bath of ice water to cool. Remove stems and chop leaves to a fine texture. Place in a freezer container and cover with water. Ice cube trays work best because they gives you individual servings.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0°F
Storage Length: 1-60 days
Seed Saving:
Parsley is a biennial and will flower and set seed in the spring of its second year. I just brush the ripe seeds into a paper bag (watch them carefully as they will fall when fully ripe) and dry them in a warm dry place (the greenhouse works well).
Parsley produces an abundance of seed and will self-sow if you let it.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Culinary:
Taste: Fresh and clean with a slightly peppery flavor.
Culinary Use: The flat types aren't as commonly used an edible garnish as the prettier curly types. It has a superior flavor however and can be added to just about any savory dish. It is an essential ingredient in many European and Western Asian cuisines. Parsley is considered one the essential herbs in the traditional French flavoring blend of "fines herbes." It is best to use fresh parsley, though it can also be dried very easily.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Parsley is frequently used as a garnish or as a flavoring in salads and many cooked dishes, but has too strong a flavor to be eaten in quantity for most palates. It is an ingredient of the herb mix "bouquet garni". The leaves should be harvested regularly in order to encourage fresh growth and get maximum yields. The leaves are difficult to dry but are easily frozen. For drying they require a well-ventilated room that receives long hours of sunlight - the leaves need to be quite crisp if they are to store. Very rich in iron, iodine and magnesium, parsley is also a good source of other minerals and the vitamins A, B and C. The stems can be dried and ground and used as a food coloring. A tea is made from the fresh or dried leaves, it is rich in vitamin C. An essential oil is obtained mainly from the leaves - it is used as a commercial food flavoring. The leaves yields about 1% essential oil, whilst about 6% is obtained from the seed. Some caution is advised on the use of this plant, especially the essential oil.
Known hazards: Parsley is said to contain the alleged 'psychotroph' myristicine. Excessive contact with the plant can cause skin inflammation. Although perfectly safe to eat and nutritious in amounts that are given in recipes, parsley is toxic in excess, especially when used as an essential oil.
Medicinal:
Parsley is a commonly grown culinary and medicinal herb that is often used as a domestic medicine. The fresh leaves are highly nutritious and can be considered a natural vitamin and mineral supplement in their own right. The plants prime use is as a diuretic where it is effective in ridding the body of stones and in treating jaundice, dropsy, cystitis etc. It is also a good detoxifier, helping the body to get rid of toxins via the urine and therefore helping in the treatment of a wide range of diseases such as rheumatism. The seed is a safe herb at normal doses, but in excess it can have toxic effects. Parsley should not be used by pregnant women because it is used to stimulate menstrual flow and can therefore provoke a miscarriage. All parts of the plant can be used medicinally, the root is the part most often used though the seeds have a stronger action. Parsley is anti-dandruff, antispasmodic, aperient, carminative, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactofuge, kidney, stomachic and tonic. An infusion of the roots and seeds is taken after childbirth to promote lactation and help contract the uterus. Parsley is also a mild laxative and is useful for treating anemia and convalescents. Caution is advised on the internal use of this herb, especially in the form of the essential oil. Excessive doses can cause liver and kidney damage, nerve inflammation and gastro-intestinal hemorrhage. It should not be prescribed for pregnant women or people with kidney diseases. A poultice of the leaves has been applied externally to soothe bites and stings, it is also said to be of value in treating tumors of a cancerous nature. It has been used to treat eye infections, whilst a wad of cotton soaked in the juice will relieve toothache or earache. It is also said to prevent hair loss and to make freckles disappear. If the leaves are kept close to the breasts of a nursing mother for a few days, the milk flow will cease.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base.
Enemies: Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Septoria leaf spot and stem rot. Carrot weevil, flea beetles, leafhoppers and tarnished plant bugs.
Other Uses:
A good companion plant, repelling insects from nearby plants. The juice is an effective mosquito repellent when it is rubbed into the skin and is also used to relieve the pain of stings and bites. An essential oil obtained from the plant is used in perfumeries for men. An infusion of the leaves is an excellent rinse for dark hair and also helps in the treatment of dandruff.
Pea
How to Grow Pea
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1.0" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 (Spring/Summer), 8 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Harden Off: 5 weeks before last frost date: In cold spring weather you should harden off the plants before planting them out.
Transplant Outdoors:
11-12 weeks before first frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
4 weeks before last frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Support: At planting. It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Start Outdoors:
When Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Peas can be started quite early if the soil is warm enough for good germination (at least 40˚ F though preferably 60˚ F). If it is too cold they will just sit and rot (or be eaten by rodents or birds). You can speed up the warming of the soil with plastic mulch, or cloches, before planting. It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before hot weather sets in. Normally the first Peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. You can speed up germination somewhat by pre-soaking the seeds overnight before sowing. The best way to do this is to put them between moist paper towels. Soaking them in a bowl of water can cause them to absorb water too rapidly and may actually injure them. You can also pre-germinate the seeds, to improve emergence in cold soils. Sprout the seeds on paper towels in a warm place and plant them out as soon as the roots appear (don’t wait too long).
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Planting:
1. Inoculate peas.
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the arrangement, push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In early spring, when the soil is cold, plant your peas 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop:
4-18 weeks after last frost date: In cool climates you can grow peas right through the summer.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before (or immediately after) you plant the seed, so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Plant a fall crop 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost, so they mature in cool weather. The seed may also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop, though it should be protected with mulch over the winter.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure immediately after planting your seed (or even before), so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Support:
At planting: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Crop Care:
Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees F (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (60 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems however).
As a cool weather spring crop they can be out of the ground by June, leaving time for a warm weather crop to succeed them.
Water Needs: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather they will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don’t have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Weed the young plants carefully (preferably by hand), to avoid damaging their shallow roots. Older plants are usually vigorous enough (and tall enough) to overwhelm most weeds.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2" after planting, 1 time. Optional: Mulch is helpful to keep down weeds, cools the soil and conserves soil moisture.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time
The young plants may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (used as directed).
Support:
At planting:
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Seed pods start green then turning brown as they dry.
Storage:
The best way to store peas for any length of time is to freeze them.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The sugar in peas begins to turn to starch soon after harvesting, so they don’t store well. For this reason they should be used promptly for best flavor. If you have to store them, put them in the fridge in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
Peas are one of the easiest crops to save seed from. They are self-pollinating, though a small amount of insect pollination may also occur. Isolate varieties by a minimum of 50' for home use. Ideally you will isolate flowering varieties by at least 150 feet. In dry weather all you have to do is leave the pods to mature and dry on the vine. In wet weather you may have to cut the vines and dry them under cover. When the pods are crisp and brown remove the seeds. These should be dried and stored in a cool dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Delicious soup peas.
Culinary Use:
Open the pod to remove the peas. Fresh young tender peas are so sweet it's easy to eat them while shucking. They can be eaten raw in salads or slightly steamed with shallots and baby spring carrots. They can also be added to stews, soups and used in pasta and risotto. Unlike dried beans, there's no need to soak Shelling Beans before use.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The young seedpods have a sweet flavor, but there is only a thin layer of flesh with a fibrous layer beneath it.
Immature seeds: raw or cooked. Sweet and delicious, they can be added to salads, or lightly cooked. A The mature seeds are rich in protein and can be cooked as a vegetable or added to soups etc. They can also be sprouted and added to salads, soups etc. The mature seed can also be dried and ground into a powder, then used to enrich the protein content of flour when making bread etc. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute.
Leaves and young shoots: cooked and used as a potherb. The young shoots taste like fresh peas, they are exceptionally tender and can be used in salads.
Medicinal:
The seed is contraceptive, fungistatic and spermicidal. The dried and powdered seed has been used as a poultice on the skin where it has an appreciable affect on many types of skin complaint including acne. The oil from the seed, given once a month to women, has shown promise of preventing pregnancy by interfering with the working of progesterone. The oil inhibits endometrial development. In trials, the oil reduced pregnancy rate in women by 60% in a 2 year period and 50% reduction in male sperm count was achieved.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Companion gardeners believe this nitrogen fixing legume stimulates the growth of corn, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, radishes, carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. Scientific research indicates that exudates from the roots of cabbage family crops may help prevent pea root rot.
Companions: Grow tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, or spinach in the shade of trellised pea plants. The pea vines also protect these tender crops from wind damage. Alternate rows of peas with shade tolerant Chinese cabbage.
Enemies: Onions and garlic are reputed to have a negative effect on the growth of peas.
Problems:
Powdery mildew and slugs may be occasional problems. Seeds can also rot if planted too early in damp, cold ground.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 1.0" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 (Spring/Summer), 8 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Harden Off: 5 weeks before last frost date: In cold spring weather you should harden off the plants before planting them out.
Transplant Outdoors:
11-12 weeks before first frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
4 weeks before last frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Support: At planting. It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Start Outdoors:
When Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Peas can be started quite early if the soil is warm enough for good germination (at least 40˚ F though preferably 60˚ F). If it is too cold they will just sit and rot (or be eaten by rodents or birds). You can speed up the warming of the soil with plastic mulch, or cloches, before planting. It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before hot weather sets in. Normally the first Peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. You can speed up germination somewhat by pre-soaking the seeds overnight before sowing. The best way to do this is to put them between moist paper towels. Soaking them in a bowl of water can cause them to absorb water too rapidly and may actually injure them. You can also pre-germinate the seeds, to improve emergence in cold soils. Sprout the seeds on paper towels in a warm place and plant them out as soon as the roots appear (don’t wait too long).
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Planting:
1. Inoculate peas.
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the arrangement, push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In early spring, when the soil is cold, plant your peas 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop:
4-18 weeks after last frost date: In cool climates you can grow peas right through the summer.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before (or immediately after) you plant the seed, so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Plant a fall crop 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost, so they mature in cool weather. The seed may also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop, though it should be protected with mulch over the winter.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure immediately after planting your seed (or even before), so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Support:
At planting: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Crop Care:
Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees F (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (60 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems however).
As a cool weather spring crop they can be out of the ground by June, leaving time for a warm weather crop to succeed them.
Water Needs: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inches, regularly, 2 times a week. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather they will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don’t have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Weed the young plants carefully (preferably by hand), to avoid damaging their shallow roots. Older plants are usually vigorous enough (and tall enough) to overwhelm most weeds.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2" after planting, 1 time. Optional: Mulch is helpful to keep down weeds, cools the soil and conserves soil moisture.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time
The young plants may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (used as directed).
Support:
At planting:
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Seed pods start green then turning brown as they dry.
Storage:
The best way to store peas for any length of time is to freeze them.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The sugar in peas begins to turn to starch soon after harvesting, so they don’t store well. For this reason they should be used promptly for best flavor. If you have to store them, put them in the fridge in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
Peas are one of the easiest crops to save seed from. They are self-pollinating, though a small amount of insect pollination may also occur. Isolate varieties by a minimum of 50' for home use. Ideally you will isolate flowering varieties by at least 150 feet. In dry weather all you have to do is leave the pods to mature and dry on the vine. In wet weather you may have to cut the vines and dry them under cover. When the pods are crisp and brown remove the seeds. These should be dried and stored in a cool dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Delicious soup peas.
Culinary Use:
Open the pod to remove the peas. Fresh young tender peas are so sweet it's easy to eat them while shucking. They can be eaten raw in salads or slightly steamed with shallots and baby spring carrots. They can also be added to stews, soups and used in pasta and risotto. Unlike dried beans, there's no need to soak Shelling Beans before use.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The young seedpods have a sweet flavor, but there is only a thin layer of flesh with a fibrous layer beneath it.
Immature seeds: raw or cooked. Sweet and delicious, they can be added to salads, or lightly cooked. A The mature seeds are rich in protein and can be cooked as a vegetable or added to soups etc. They can also be sprouted and added to salads, soups etc. The mature seed can also be dried and ground into a powder, then used to enrich the protein content of flour when making bread etc. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute.
Leaves and young shoots: cooked and used as a potherb. The young shoots taste like fresh peas, they are exceptionally tender and can be used in salads.
Medicinal:
The seed is contraceptive, fungistatic and spermicidal. The dried and powdered seed has been used as a poultice on the skin where it has an appreciable affect on many types of skin complaint including acne. The oil from the seed, given once a month to women, has shown promise of preventing pregnancy by interfering with the working of progesterone. The oil inhibits endometrial development. In trials, the oil reduced pregnancy rate in women by 60% in a 2 year period and 50% reduction in male sperm count was achieved.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Companion gardeners believe this nitrogen fixing legume stimulates the growth of corn, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, radishes, carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. Scientific research indicates that exudates from the roots of cabbage family crops may help prevent pea root rot.
Companions: Grow tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, or spinach in the shade of trellised pea plants. The pea vines also protect these tender crops from wind damage. Alternate rows of peas with shade tolerant Chinese cabbage.
Enemies: Onions and garlic are reputed to have a negative effect on the growth of peas.
Problems:
Powdery mildew and slugs may be occasional problems. Seeds can also rot if planted too early in damp, cold ground.
Pea: Pigeon
How to Grow Pigeon Pea
Pigeon Pea can grow as a short-term perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12, but due to their sensitivity to cold weather all other zones must plant them as annuals. Anyone interested in growing Pigeon pea needs at least 120 days (from the time of sowing) for it to produce green pods, and longer to harvest dried legumes. Even though they’ll survive for up to four or five years as a perennial, they produce best in the first year.
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 5.0 to 7.0. Because they have deep roots, pigeon peas are capable of growing in a wide range of soils, including semiarid soils, according to the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. However, good drainage is a must for pigeon peas, as these plants do not tolerate wet soils. Prior to planting, you'll want to be diligent about clearing the garden bed of any weeds that can compete with the pigeon pea seedlings for nutrients. They’ll also grow readily in clay, loam, or sand. But they’ll still grow better if you cultivate the soil down a few inches ahead of sowing.
Germination:
In areas with short growing seasons, you may start pigeon peas indoors and then transplant them out. If you try this approach, be sure to use peat pots or seed-starting containers made with some other biodegradable material so the roots won’t be disturbed when you transplant.
1) Soaking seeds overnight will improve germination
2) Inoculate seeds before sowing. To use, moisten the seed with a small amount of milk or water and stir in the inoculant until seeds are coated. Do not inoculate the seed until you are ready to sow it and do not leave the inoculated seed in the sun.
3) Fill peat pots to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
4) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then add 1-2 inoculated seeds evenly over the medium of each pot.
5) Sprinkle an additional 1” of soil mix over your seeds add a label with the plant name and date.
6) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit .
7) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Recommended Planting Time: Spring
Soil Temperature: Ideal 77F.
Average Germ Time: 21 days
Light Required: Yes
Sow Depth: 1”
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Starting Outdoors:
After the risk of frost has passed and spring temperatures have warmed, soak your Pigeon Pea seeds overnight to help improve germination. Once the seeds have soaked, inoculate your seeds before sowing. To use, moisten the seed with a small amount of milk or water and stir in the inoculant until seeds are coated. Do not inoculate the seed until you are ready to sow it and do not leave the inoculated seed in the sun.
Pigeon peas should be planted in a sunny location that has good drainage. Plant in rows at a depth of 1 to 4 inches. Leave 3 to 4 inches between rows and 12 to 18 inches between plants in a row.
Crop Care:
Pigeon pea plants grow best in full sunlight and they do not require regular watering in order to produce a crop. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service notes that pigeon pea plants do not need to be fertilized but warns that because these plants grow slowly, it is important to keep the garden bed free of weeds during the first six weeks after planting.
Watering:
Pigeon pea plants are susceptible to a number of diseases, such as anthracnose, leaf spots and fusarium wilt. All of these diseases thrive in moist conditions, so keeping the leaves of the plants dry and making sure that the soil is not waterlogged can help avoid these conditions.
Temperature:
Pigeon pea plants prefer temperatures between 68 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit but will grow in temperatures as hot as 100 degrees.
Protection:
Pigeon peas can also become infested with aphids, which are small, sap-sucking creatures. Aphids can be removed with water pressure. If cutworms become a problem, you'll want to wrap the stems of the plants with aluminum foil to protect them.
Weeding:
Because these plants grow slowly, it is important to keep the garden bed free of weeds during the first six weeks after planting.
Pruning:
If you like, you can prune the stems once the plants are a few feet tall to increase productivity, but don’t cut too severely.Aim to cut four or five inches off the terminal branches, and you can save the cuttings to use for mulch. While this may encourage the plants to grow more vigorously, it’s not necessary.
Harvesting:
Keep an eye on the plants. Once they start forming flowers, you should have fresh green peas to pick a few weeks later. You can pick those by hand, but be careful not to pull off whole branches. You can also take the extra step of bringing a pair of scissors to the garden to clip the fresh pods.
Storage:
Store them in an airtight bag for two or three days in the fridge before shelling, or in an airtight container for up to a week if they’re shelled first.
The fresh-shelled seeds can be frozen like garden peas or soybeans. Just blanch them for a couple of minutes ahead of freezing.
If you’ve harvested the dried peas and allowed them to dry out completely after processing, you can store them in an airtight container for a couple of years.
Seed Saving:
Once they've dried completely, store them in an airtight container. To save seeds to plant next year, let the pods age on the plant until they are so dry they start releasing their seeds spontaneously.
Culinary:
Fresh pigeon peas can be used similarly to fresh peas, in both raw and cooked preparations. Use them in salads, slaws or eaten raw out of hand. The dried beans can be substituted for any other dried pea, bean or lentil. They should be soaked first, and then can be simmered, sauteed, steamed and fried.
Problems:
Pigeon pea plants are susceptible to a number of diseases, such as anthracnose, leaf spots and fusarium wilt.
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 5.0 to 7.0. Because they have deep roots, pigeon peas are capable of growing in a wide range of soils, including semiarid soils, according to the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. However, good drainage is a must for pigeon peas, as these plants do not tolerate wet soils. Prior to planting, you'll want to be diligent about clearing the garden bed of any weeds that can compete with the pigeon pea seedlings for nutrients. They’ll also grow readily in clay, loam, or sand. But they’ll still grow better if you cultivate the soil down a few inches ahead of sowing.
Germination:
In areas with short growing seasons, you may start pigeon peas indoors and then transplant them out. If you try this approach, be sure to use peat pots or seed-starting containers made with some other biodegradable material so the roots won’t be disturbed when you transplant.
1) Soaking seeds overnight will improve germination
2) Inoculate seeds before sowing. To use, moisten the seed with a small amount of milk or water and stir in the inoculant until seeds are coated. Do not inoculate the seed until you are ready to sow it and do not leave the inoculated seed in the sun.
3) Fill peat pots to within 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the rim with moist soil mix.
4) Firm the surface with the back of your fingers, then add 1-2 inoculated seeds evenly over the medium of each pot.
5) Sprinkle an additional 1” of soil mix over your seeds add a label with the plant name and date.
6) Cover the finished pots with plastic and set them in a warm bright place or under lights at a room temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit .
7) Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
Recommended Planting Time: Spring
Soil Temperature: Ideal 77F.
Average Germ Time: 21 days
Light Required: Yes
Sow Depth: 1”
Moisture: Keep seed moist until germination
Starting Outdoors:
After the risk of frost has passed and spring temperatures have warmed, soak your Pigeon Pea seeds overnight to help improve germination. Once the seeds have soaked, inoculate your seeds before sowing. To use, moisten the seed with a small amount of milk or water and stir in the inoculant until seeds are coated. Do not inoculate the seed until you are ready to sow it and do not leave the inoculated seed in the sun.
Pigeon peas should be planted in a sunny location that has good drainage. Plant in rows at a depth of 1 to 4 inches. Leave 3 to 4 inches between rows and 12 to 18 inches between plants in a row.
Crop Care:
Pigeon pea plants grow best in full sunlight and they do not require regular watering in order to produce a crop. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service notes that pigeon pea plants do not need to be fertilized but warns that because these plants grow slowly, it is important to keep the garden bed free of weeds during the first six weeks after planting.
Watering:
Pigeon pea plants are susceptible to a number of diseases, such as anthracnose, leaf spots and fusarium wilt. All of these diseases thrive in moist conditions, so keeping the leaves of the plants dry and making sure that the soil is not waterlogged can help avoid these conditions.
Temperature:
Pigeon pea plants prefer temperatures between 68 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit but will grow in temperatures as hot as 100 degrees.
Protection:
Pigeon peas can also become infested with aphids, which are small, sap-sucking creatures. Aphids can be removed with water pressure. If cutworms become a problem, you'll want to wrap the stems of the plants with aluminum foil to protect them.
Weeding:
Because these plants grow slowly, it is important to keep the garden bed free of weeds during the first six weeks after planting.
Pruning:
If you like, you can prune the stems once the plants are a few feet tall to increase productivity, but don’t cut too severely.Aim to cut four or five inches off the terminal branches, and you can save the cuttings to use for mulch. While this may encourage the plants to grow more vigorously, it’s not necessary.
Harvesting:
Keep an eye on the plants. Once they start forming flowers, you should have fresh green peas to pick a few weeks later. You can pick those by hand, but be careful not to pull off whole branches. You can also take the extra step of bringing a pair of scissors to the garden to clip the fresh pods.
Storage:
Store them in an airtight bag for two or three days in the fridge before shelling, or in an airtight container for up to a week if they’re shelled first.
The fresh-shelled seeds can be frozen like garden peas or soybeans. Just blanch them for a couple of minutes ahead of freezing.
If you’ve harvested the dried peas and allowed them to dry out completely after processing, you can store them in an airtight container for a couple of years.
Seed Saving:
Once they've dried completely, store them in an airtight container. To save seeds to plant next year, let the pods age on the plant until they are so dry they start releasing their seeds spontaneously.
Culinary:
Fresh pigeon peas can be used similarly to fresh peas, in both raw and cooked preparations. Use them in salads, slaws or eaten raw out of hand. The dried beans can be substituted for any other dried pea, bean or lentil. They should be soaked first, and then can be simmered, sauteed, steamed and fried.
Problems:
Pigeon pea plants are susceptible to a number of diseases, such as anthracnose, leaf spots and fusarium wilt.
Peppers
How to Grow Peppers
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Transplant Outdoors:
4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Crop Care:
All Peppers like a warm, sunny and sheltered spot. They originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 70˚ F) nights and high humidity.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quarts, before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inches, at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quarts, after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Their flavor and nutritive value improves markedly as they ripen, from green to red.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-84 days after maturity
When: Hot peppers need to come to full ripeness on the vine. Wait to pick when they have reached their full mature color.
How: Harvest Peppers by cutting the fruit from the plant, leaving a short stem on the fruit. You can break them off, but there is a greater risk of damaging the plant.
You can also pull the whole plant, and hang it upside down to dry the peppers. Wear gloves when harvesting a lot of fruit, as they contain Capsaicin which is very irritating to delicate skin and mucus membranes.
Storage:
Sweet Peppers can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge for several days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-3 days
For longer term storage, both sweet and hot Peppers can be chopped and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Most Hot peppers can be dried for storage.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 360 days
Seed Saving:
It's easy to save Pepper seed (so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid), just allow the fruits to ripen fully, then scrape out the seeds from the fruit before you eat it. Even the seed from green fruits may be viable, if not as good. Wear gloves when collecting seeds from hot peppers.
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary:
Taste: Medium-hot pepper used fresh, canned, fried, or dried.
Culinary Use: Hot Peppers add more to cooking than just heat, they also have an intriguing flavor all of their own. When working with hot peppers be sure to not touch your eyes or skin because the oil from the pepper can burn or irritate your skin. They can be roasted, chopped, or used raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. Some varieties are very hot (the chili and cayenne peppers) and are normally used as a pungent flavoring whilst milder varieties (the sweet peppers) have a very pleasant flavor with a slight sweetness and are often eaten raw in salads etc. The dried fruits of chili and cayenne peppers is ground into a powder and used as a pungent flavoring called paprika. The powder from the dried ground fruit of some cultivars is added to food as a coloring. The fruits range widely in size and shape, from a few centimeters long to more than 30 cm.
Young leaves: are said to be edible but some caution is advised. They are steamed as a potherb or added to soups and stews. The leaves contain about 4 - 6% protein.
Seed: dried, ground into a powder and used as a pepper.
Flowers: raw or cooked.
Known Hazards: Pungent-fruited peppers may cause painful irritation when used in excess, or after accidental contact with the eyes. Although no reports have been seen for this species, many plants in this family produce toxins in their leaves. The sap of the plant can cause the skin to blister.
Medicinal:
The fruit of the hot, pungent cultivars is antihaemorrhoidal when taken in small amounts, antirheumatic, antiseptic, diaphoretic, digestive, irritant, rubefacient, sialagogue and tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of the cold stage of fevers, debility in convalescence or old age, varicose veins, asthma and digestive problems. Externally it is used in the treatment of sprains, unbroken chilblains, neuralgia, pleurisy etc. It is an effective sea-sickness preventative.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. While you should always plant chili peppers close together, providing shelter from the sun with other plants will help keep them from drying out and provide more humidity. Tomato plants, green peppers, and okra are good protection for them. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basil, oregano, parsley and rosemary.
Never put them next to any beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or fennel.
Problems:
Potential pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, and Colorado potato beetles. Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Transplant Outdoors:
4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Crop Care:
All Peppers like a warm, sunny and sheltered spot. They originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 70˚ F) nights and high humidity.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quarts, before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inches, at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quarts, after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Their flavor and nutritive value improves markedly as they ripen, from green to red.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-84 days after maturity
When: Hot peppers need to come to full ripeness on the vine. Wait to pick when they have reached their full mature color.
How: Harvest Peppers by cutting the fruit from the plant, leaving a short stem on the fruit. You can break them off, but there is a greater risk of damaging the plant.
You can also pull the whole plant, and hang it upside down to dry the peppers. Wear gloves when harvesting a lot of fruit, as they contain Capsaicin which is very irritating to delicate skin and mucus membranes.
Storage:
Sweet Peppers can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge for several days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-3 days
For longer term storage, both sweet and hot Peppers can be chopped and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Most Hot peppers can be dried for storage.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 360 days
Seed Saving:
It's easy to save Pepper seed (so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid), just allow the fruits to ripen fully, then scrape out the seeds from the fruit before you eat it. Even the seed from green fruits may be viable, if not as good. Wear gloves when collecting seeds from hot peppers.
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary:
Taste: Medium-hot pepper used fresh, canned, fried, or dried.
Culinary Use: Hot Peppers add more to cooking than just heat, they also have an intriguing flavor all of their own. When working with hot peppers be sure to not touch your eyes or skin because the oil from the pepper can burn or irritate your skin. They can be roasted, chopped, or used raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. Some varieties are very hot (the chili and cayenne peppers) and are normally used as a pungent flavoring whilst milder varieties (the sweet peppers) have a very pleasant flavor with a slight sweetness and are often eaten raw in salads etc. The dried fruits of chili and cayenne peppers is ground into a powder and used as a pungent flavoring called paprika. The powder from the dried ground fruit of some cultivars is added to food as a coloring. The fruits range widely in size and shape, from a few centimeters long to more than 30 cm.
Young leaves: are said to be edible but some caution is advised. They are steamed as a potherb or added to soups and stews. The leaves contain about 4 - 6% protein.
Seed: dried, ground into a powder and used as a pepper.
Flowers: raw or cooked.
Known Hazards: Pungent-fruited peppers may cause painful irritation when used in excess, or after accidental contact with the eyes. Although no reports have been seen for this species, many plants in this family produce toxins in their leaves. The sap of the plant can cause the skin to blister.
Medicinal:
The fruit of the hot, pungent cultivars is antihaemorrhoidal when taken in small amounts, antirheumatic, antiseptic, diaphoretic, digestive, irritant, rubefacient, sialagogue and tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of the cold stage of fevers, debility in convalescence or old age, varicose veins, asthma and digestive problems. Externally it is used in the treatment of sprains, unbroken chilblains, neuralgia, pleurisy etc. It is an effective sea-sickness preventative.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. While you should always plant chili peppers close together, providing shelter from the sun with other plants will help keep them from drying out and provide more humidity. Tomato plants, green peppers, and okra are good protection for them. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basil, oregano, parsley and rosemary.
Never put them next to any beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or fennel.
Problems:
Potential pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, and Colorado potato beetles. Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.
Pumpkin
How to Grow Pumpkin
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1-2 weeks before last frost date. Pumpkins are usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil.
1. The plants dislike root disturbance, so use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks after last frost date: It’s important to plant Pumpkins out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them.
Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Summer Crop: 3-10 weeks after last frost date. Pumpkin grow fast in warm soil and will often catch up with plants started indoors. Don’t plant them out until the soil is warm enough (60° F minimum) or they may simply rot in the cold ground.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
You can warm the soil with black plastic to get them off to a good start and protect them until the weather gets warmer. You could also pre-sprout the seed before planting. You only plant Pumpkin once in a year, so do it properly.
Hills: Plant 3-5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated. These are spaced 4-6' apart, depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them. If they are to be trained to grow up supports they can be grown closer together, perhaps as close as 30˝ apart.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Crop Care:
Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. These are vigorous and robust plants. If they are well fed and watered, they can compete with almost any plant.
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 gallon per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2 to 4 weeks.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If an early frost threatens cover them with mulch or frost blankets for protection. Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. You need to keep the young plants weeded. Once they get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. Their broad leaves effectively block out upcoming weeds from sunlight.
Watering, up to early fruit set: Water, 3 quarts, up to early fruit set, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Pruning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. If you remove some of the fruit it will allow the plant to put all its energy into those remaining and they will get bigger. This is especially important for the giant pumpkin varieties, such as Big Max and and Wyatt's Wonder.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest when stems begin to shrivel or you can no longer pierce the skin with a thumbnail, but be sure to harvest before the first hard frost. For immediate use, harvest when the skin loses its sheen.
Storage:
Cure for 2 weeks in a warm place (80 to 90° F) and then store at around 50 to 60° F and 60 to 70% humidity. They may last 6 months or more in storage, which is why they were once important for self-sufficient farmers.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
By the time the pumpkin has been cured, the seeds are mature. Cut the pumpkin open, remove the pulp and seeds, and rinse off the pulp. Put the mixture in a bowl of water to remove the remaining pulp; the good seeds will sink. Remove the good seeds and spread them out to dry for 2-3 weeks, stirring them at times to make sure they dry completely. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 4 years.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet, rich and thick-fleshed.
Culinary Use: As the name suggests, these pumpkins make extraordinary pies, as well as a number of other recipes. The pumpkin, as well as other winter squash, play an important role in winter cuisine. It can be roasted, or cooked into a risotto or soup. Pumpkin Pancakes or Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls are other sweet treats you can indulge in!
Fruit: cooked. Used as a vegetable in pies etc., it can be stored for up to 6 months. Generally the fruit is fibrous, watery and less richly flavored than C. maxima., C. moschata. and C. pepo. The flesh can be dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals for making bread, cakes etc. The fruit is up to 20 cm in diameter.
Seed: raw, roasted or dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals when making bread etc. The seed is rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor. Although relatively large, they are very fiddly to use because they are covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves: cooked.
Flowers: cooked.
Known hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal:
The pumpkin has been much used as a medicine in Central and North America. It is a gentle and safe remedy for a number of complaints, especially as an effective tapeworm remover for children and pregnant women for whom stronger acting and toxic remedies are unsuitable. The seeds are mildly diuretic and vermifuge. The complete seed, together with the husk, is used to remove tapeworms. The seed is ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purgative afterwards in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. As a remedy for internal parasites, the seeds are less potent than the root of Dryopteris felix-mas, but they are safer for pregnant women, debilitated patients and children. The seed is used to treat hypertrophy of the prostate. The seed is high in zinc and has been used successfully in the early stages of prostate problems. The diuretic action has been used in the treatment of nephritis and other problems of the urinary system. The leaves are applied externally to burns. The sap of the plant and the pulp of the fruit can also be used. The fruit pulp is used as a decoction to relieve intestinal inflammation.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Again dill may help repel those frustrating squash bugs.
Problems:
Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt, squash vine borers and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Squash borers (caterpillars) tunnel into stems, causing that portion of the vine to wilt. Look for entry holes with droppings outside, make a vertical slit in the problem stem, and remove the caterpillar. Squash bugs can be removed by hand or by placing boards near the plants at night (bugs hide under the boards and can be destroyed the next morning). Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, white flies, and squash bugs. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1-2 weeks before last frost date. Pumpkins are usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil.
1. The plants dislike root disturbance, so use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks after last frost date: It’s important to plant Pumpkins out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them.
Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Summer Crop: 3-10 weeks after last frost date. Pumpkin grow fast in warm soil and will often catch up with plants started indoors. Don’t plant them out until the soil is warm enough (60° F minimum) or they may simply rot in the cold ground.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
You can warm the soil with black plastic to get them off to a good start and protect them until the weather gets warmer. You could also pre-sprout the seed before planting. You only plant Pumpkin once in a year, so do it properly.
Hills: Plant 3-5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated. These are spaced 4-6' apart, depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them. If they are to be trained to grow up supports they can be grown closer together, perhaps as close as 30˝ apart.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Crop Care:
Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. These are vigorous and robust plants. If they are well fed and watered, they can compete with almost any plant.
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 gallon per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2 to 4 weeks.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If an early frost threatens cover them with mulch or frost blankets for protection. Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. You need to keep the young plants weeded. Once they get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. Their broad leaves effectively block out upcoming weeds from sunlight.
Watering, up to early fruit set: Water, 3 quarts, up to early fruit set, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Pruning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. If you remove some of the fruit it will allow the plant to put all its energy into those remaining and they will get bigger. This is especially important for the giant pumpkin varieties, such as Big Max and and Wyatt's Wonder.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest when stems begin to shrivel or you can no longer pierce the skin with a thumbnail, but be sure to harvest before the first hard frost. For immediate use, harvest when the skin loses its sheen.
Storage:
Cure for 2 weeks in a warm place (80 to 90° F) and then store at around 50 to 60° F and 60 to 70% humidity. They may last 6 months or more in storage, which is why they were once important for self-sufficient farmers.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Seed Saving:
By the time the pumpkin has been cured, the seeds are mature. Cut the pumpkin open, remove the pulp and seeds, and rinse off the pulp. Put the mixture in a bowl of water to remove the remaining pulp; the good seeds will sink. Remove the good seeds and spread them out to dry for 2-3 weeks, stirring them at times to make sure they dry completely. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 4 years.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Sweet, rich and thick-fleshed.
Culinary Use: As the name suggests, these pumpkins make extraordinary pies, as well as a number of other recipes. The pumpkin, as well as other winter squash, play an important role in winter cuisine. It can be roasted, or cooked into a risotto or soup. Pumpkin Pancakes or Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls are other sweet treats you can indulge in!
Fruit: cooked. Used as a vegetable in pies etc., it can be stored for up to 6 months. Generally the fruit is fibrous, watery and less richly flavored than C. maxima., C. moschata. and C. pepo. The flesh can be dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals for making bread, cakes etc. The fruit is up to 20 cm in diameter.
Seed: raw, roasted or dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals when making bread etc. The seed is rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor. Although relatively large, they are very fiddly to use because they are covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves: cooked.
Flowers: cooked.
Known hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal:
The pumpkin has been much used as a medicine in Central and North America. It is a gentle and safe remedy for a number of complaints, especially as an effective tapeworm remover for children and pregnant women for whom stronger acting and toxic remedies are unsuitable. The seeds are mildly diuretic and vermifuge. The complete seed, together with the husk, is used to remove tapeworms. The seed is ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purgative afterwards in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. As a remedy for internal parasites, the seeds are less potent than the root of Dryopteris felix-mas, but they are safer for pregnant women, debilitated patients and children. The seed is used to treat hypertrophy of the prostate. The seed is high in zinc and has been used successfully in the early stages of prostate problems. The diuretic action has been used in the treatment of nephritis and other problems of the urinary system. The leaves are applied externally to burns. The sap of the plant and the pulp of the fruit can also be used. The fruit pulp is used as a decoction to relieve intestinal inflammation.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Again dill may help repel those frustrating squash bugs.
Problems:
Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt, squash vine borers and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Squash borers (caterpillars) tunnel into stems, causing that portion of the vine to wilt. Look for entry holes with droppings outside, make a vertical slit in the problem stem, and remove the caterpillar. Squash bugs can be removed by hand or by placing boards near the plants at night (bugs hide under the boards and can be destroyed the next morning). Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, white flies, and squash bugs. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Radish
How to Grow Radish
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Radishes are most easily grown in spring and fall, as they prefer short days (up to 12 hours long) and cool weather. Temperatures much above 70 degrees F cause them to be very pungent.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Don’t plant your first spring Radishes until the soil temperature reaches at least 45˚ F, which may be around the last frost date. If you warm the soil up with black plastic or cloches, you could get them going a month earlier than this (they are quite frost tolerant).
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.5". Plant 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 1 1/2" deep in warm soil. The deeper planting may also give you slightly larger roots, especially if you give them a slightly wider spacing.
Spacing: 4.0"-6.0", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing is critical when growing radishes. If they are overcrowded they won't produce good roots. Thinning is recommended if plants seem overcrowded.
Spring Crop:
0-4 weeks before last frost date: Plant in the early spring when days are still short.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
Sow directly outdoors, as it germinates easily in cold soil and the plants grow rapidly.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
If you warm the soil up with black plastic or cloches, you could get them going a month earlier than this (they are quite frost tolerant).
Summer Crop:
0-16 weeks after last frost date: Plant where summers are cool. The plants will benefit from light shade if the weather conditions are warm.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
Fall Crop:
2-12 weeks before first frost date: Sow directly outdoors, as it germinates easily in cold soil and the plants grow rapidly.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Radishes are pretty easy so long as you give them basic care, weeding, thinning, and watering.
Water Needs: Moderate. Radishes must have a steady supply of water for best quality, so keep the soil evenly moist at all times. Too little water can result in woodiness and excessive pungency (such roots are pithy and have marked growth rings). Too much water may encourage top growth at the expense of the roots.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorus. Radishes don't need a lot of nitrogen (don't give them fresh manure), but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch, regularly, 2 times a week. It is important to keep the soil evenly moist for best quality roots. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. These small plants don’t compete with weeds very well and won't produce good roots if they are crowded. Keep them well weeded. The best way to weed Radishes is by hand. Don’t use a hoe too near the plants as you can easily damage the shoulders of the roots.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. Proper thinning is absolutely vital if you are going to grow good Radishes. If the plants are crowded they won’t produce useful roots. When all the seeds have germinated they should be thinned to 1 - 2" apart.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Check to see if a root is ready for harvest with a little careful digging. Remove dirt around root and check diameter.
Storage:
Radishes are a quick crop that is usually eaten fresh. The roots will keep for several weeks in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
Radishes are insect pollinated and will cross with any other variety, so you should grow only one variety at a time (or you could isolate them). They will also cross with Wild Radishes. They could be isolated by caging. Save seed from at least a half dozen plants to maintain some genetic diversity. Gather the ripe seeds from the pods and dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Crisp, mild and sweet flesh.
Culinary Use:
The roots are generally used raw in salads and sandwiches. They can also be cooked in soups or pickled.
The tender young leaves can be eaten raw in salads, or cooked as a potherb.
The immature seedpods are good in salads and can also be pickled.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. A somewhat hot taste, and the texture is somewhat coarse. As long as they are young, they make an acceptable addition in small quantities to chopped salads and are a reasonable cooked green.
Young flower clusters: raw or cooked. A spicy flavor with a crisp pleasant texture, they make a nice addition to salads or can be used as a broccoli substitute.
Seeds: raw. The seed can be soaked for 12 hours in warm water and then allowed to sprout for about 6 days. They have a hot spicy flavor and go well in salads.
Young seedpods: raw. Crisp and juicy with a mildly hot flavor. They must be eaten when young because they quickly become tough and fibrous.
Root: raw or cooked. Crisp and juicy, they have a hot and spicy flavor and are a very popular addition to salads. The summer crops do not store well and should be used as soon as possible after harvesting. The winter varieties (including the Japanese forms) have much larger roots and often a milder flavor. These store well and can be either harvested in early winter for storage or be harvested as required through the winter. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Medicinal:
Radishes have long been grown as a food crop, but they also have various medicinal actions. The roots stimulate the appetite and digestion, having a tonic and laxative effect upon the intestines and indirectly stimulating the flow of bile. Consuming radish generally results in improved digestion, but some people are sensitive to its acridity and robust action. The plant is used in the treatment of intestinal parasites, though the part of the plant used is not specified. The leaves, seeds and old roots are used in the treatment of asthma and other chest complaints. The juice of the fresh leaves is diuretic and laxative. The seed is carminative, diuretic, expectorant, laxative and stomachic. It is taken internally in the treatment of indigestion, abdominal bloating, wind, acid regurgitation, diarrhea and bronchitis. The root is anti-scorbutic, antispasmodic, astringent, cholagogue, digestive and diuretic. It is crushed and used as a poultice for burns, bruises and smelly feet. Radishes are also an excellent food remedy for stone, gravel and scorbutic conditions. The root is best harvested before the plant flowers. Its use is not recommended if the stomach or intestines are inflamed. The plant contains raphanin, which is antibacterial and anti-fungal. It inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli, streptococci, Pneumococci etc. The plant also shows anti-tumor activity.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Some companion gardeners are convinced that radishes grown with peas and lettuce are more tender. Radishes are also said to thrive with beans, carrots, kohlrabi, parsnips, and onions. Nasturtiums and mustard are supposed to protect radishes from flea beetles. Radishes are reputed to repel striped cucumber beetles from cucumbers and prevent borers in squash and melons. Chervil makes radishes hot.
Enemies: Some gardeners believe that radishes are harmful to grapevines. Hyssop is said to have a negative effect on radishes.
Problems:
Flea beetles can be a problem as well as other pests typically found on Brassicaceae crops. Floating row covers can be very useful.
Other Uses:
The growing plant repels beetles from tomatoes and cucumbers. It is also useful for repelling various other insect pests such as carrot root fly. There is a fodder variety that grows more vigorously and is used as a green manure.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Radishes are most easily grown in spring and fall, as they prefer short days (up to 12 hours long) and cool weather. Temperatures much above 70 degrees F cause them to be very pungent.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Don’t plant your first spring Radishes until the soil temperature reaches at least 45˚ F, which may be around the last frost date. If you warm the soil up with black plastic or cloches, you could get them going a month earlier than this (they are quite frost tolerant).
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.5". Plant 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 1 1/2" deep in warm soil. The deeper planting may also give you slightly larger roots, especially if you give them a slightly wider spacing.
Spacing: 4.0"-6.0", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing is critical when growing radishes. If they are overcrowded they won't produce good roots. Thinning is recommended if plants seem overcrowded.
Spring Crop:
0-4 weeks before last frost date: Plant in the early spring when days are still short.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
Sow directly outdoors, as it germinates easily in cold soil and the plants grow rapidly.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
If you warm the soil up with black plastic or cloches, you could get them going a month earlier than this (they are quite frost tolerant).
Summer Crop:
0-16 weeks after last frost date: Plant where summers are cool. The plants will benefit from light shade if the weather conditions are warm.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
Fall Crop:
2-12 weeks before first frost date: Sow directly outdoors, as it germinates easily in cold soil and the plants grow rapidly.
1. Make shallow (1/2˝ to 1 1/2˝) furrows
2. Sow the seeds 1/2" to 1" apart. Bigger seed may also result in larger roots.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Radishes are pretty easy so long as you give them basic care, weeding, thinning, and watering.
Water Needs: Moderate. Radishes must have a steady supply of water for best quality, so keep the soil evenly moist at all times. Too little water can result in woodiness and excessive pungency (such roots are pithy and have marked growth rings). Too much water may encourage top growth at the expense of the roots.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorus. Radishes don't need a lot of nitrogen (don't give them fresh manure), but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch, regularly, 2 times a week. It is important to keep the soil evenly moist for best quality roots. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. These small plants don’t compete with weeds very well and won't produce good roots if they are crowded. Keep them well weeded. The best way to weed Radishes is by hand. Don’t use a hoe too near the plants as you can easily damage the shoulders of the roots.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. Proper thinning is absolutely vital if you are going to grow good Radishes. If the plants are crowded they won’t produce useful roots. When all the seeds have germinated they should be thinned to 1 - 2" apart.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Check to see if a root is ready for harvest with a little careful digging. Remove dirt around root and check diameter.
Storage:
Radishes are a quick crop that is usually eaten fresh. The roots will keep for several weeks in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Saving:
Radishes are insect pollinated and will cross with any other variety, so you should grow only one variety at a time (or you could isolate them). They will also cross with Wild Radishes. They could be isolated by caging. Save seed from at least a half dozen plants to maintain some genetic diversity. Gather the ripe seeds from the pods and dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Crisp, mild and sweet flesh.
Culinary Use:
The roots are generally used raw in salads and sandwiches. They can also be cooked in soups or pickled.
The tender young leaves can be eaten raw in salads, or cooked as a potherb.
The immature seedpods are good in salads and can also be pickled.
Young leaves: raw or cooked. A somewhat hot taste, and the texture is somewhat coarse. As long as they are young, they make an acceptable addition in small quantities to chopped salads and are a reasonable cooked green.
Young flower clusters: raw or cooked. A spicy flavor with a crisp pleasant texture, they make a nice addition to salads or can be used as a broccoli substitute.
Seeds: raw. The seed can be soaked for 12 hours in warm water and then allowed to sprout for about 6 days. They have a hot spicy flavor and go well in salads.
Young seedpods: raw. Crisp and juicy with a mildly hot flavor. They must be eaten when young because they quickly become tough and fibrous.
Root: raw or cooked. Crisp and juicy, they have a hot and spicy flavor and are a very popular addition to salads. The summer crops do not store well and should be used as soon as possible after harvesting. The winter varieties (including the Japanese forms) have much larger roots and often a milder flavor. These store well and can be either harvested in early winter for storage or be harvested as required through the winter. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Medicinal:
Radishes have long been grown as a food crop, but they also have various medicinal actions. The roots stimulate the appetite and digestion, having a tonic and laxative effect upon the intestines and indirectly stimulating the flow of bile. Consuming radish generally results in improved digestion, but some people are sensitive to its acridity and robust action. The plant is used in the treatment of intestinal parasites, though the part of the plant used is not specified. The leaves, seeds and old roots are used in the treatment of asthma and other chest complaints. The juice of the fresh leaves is diuretic and laxative. The seed is carminative, diuretic, expectorant, laxative and stomachic. It is taken internally in the treatment of indigestion, abdominal bloating, wind, acid regurgitation, diarrhea and bronchitis. The root is anti-scorbutic, antispasmodic, astringent, cholagogue, digestive and diuretic. It is crushed and used as a poultice for burns, bruises and smelly feet. Radishes are also an excellent food remedy for stone, gravel and scorbutic conditions. The root is best harvested before the plant flowers. Its use is not recommended if the stomach or intestines are inflamed. The plant contains raphanin, which is antibacterial and anti-fungal. It inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli, streptococci, Pneumococci etc. The plant also shows anti-tumor activity.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: Some companion gardeners are convinced that radishes grown with peas and lettuce are more tender. Radishes are also said to thrive with beans, carrots, kohlrabi, parsnips, and onions. Nasturtiums and mustard are supposed to protect radishes from flea beetles. Radishes are reputed to repel striped cucumber beetles from cucumbers and prevent borers in squash and melons. Chervil makes radishes hot.
Enemies: Some gardeners believe that radishes are harmful to grapevines. Hyssop is said to have a negative effect on radishes.
Problems:
Flea beetles can be a problem as well as other pests typically found on Brassicaceae crops. Floating row covers can be very useful.
Other Uses:
The growing plant repels beetles from tomatoes and cucumbers. It is also useful for repelling various other insect pests such as carrot root fly. There is a fodder variety that grows more vigorously and is used as a green manure.
Rhubarb
How to Grow Rhubarb
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Rhubarb requires temperatures below 40˚ F to establish dormancy, and summer temperatures averaging less than 75˚ F for vigorous vegetative growth. The Northern U.S. and Canada are well suited for rhubarb production. In the United states it grows best in the northern states from Maine South to Illinois and West to Washington state. Once planted, rhubarb remains productive for 8 to 15 years.
Rhubarb can be grown in the Southern regions of the United States if it is grown as an annual. However, it will wilt very quickly on hot days (over 90˚ F). Excessive heat may cause Rhubarb to produce only thin leaf stalks which lack color.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 75°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. Germination will be slow until the soil warms up to 40˚F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". In warmer soils, plant 1/2" deep, and plant 1/4" deep in cooler soils.
Spacing: 24.0"-48.0", (1 per 3x3) plants per sq ft. Rhubarb can get to be quite a big plant and you should put the crowns approximately 3' apart in each direction.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year: Rhubarb is a very independent plant and needs relatively little care.
Rhubarb is in the ground for a long time, so choose a site where it won’t be disturbed. It should be well away from shrubs or trees, whose roots might take nutrients away from it.
Plants should be divided every 4 or 5 years, to prevent overcrowding. Divide the roots to leave at least one, and preferably two, buds on each piece of root.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet. Don't let the soil become soggy, as crown rot may occur.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Rhubarb prefers a deep, rich, fertile soil because it's a fairly hungry plant.
Side Dressing: Compost (Nitrogen), 2", 1 time, Apply a 2˝ layer of compost or aged manure annually. This keeps down weeds, conserves moisture and feeds the soil (which then feeds the plants.)
Watering: Water, 1 gallon, 1 time a week In dry climates Rhubarb needs regular watering to keep it productive, otherwise it will go dormant in summer.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
The individual stalks are ready to harvest when the leaf opens. Each one should be at least 1/2" in diameter and preferably 1" or more. Be sure not to harvest stalks during the plant's first year.
When and How: Cut & Come Again
When: During the first year of planting, the stalks should not be picked, since food from the leaves is needed to nourish the roots for the next year’s growth. One light picking may be taken during the year following planting if the plants are vigorous, and beginning the second year following planting, the you can start harvesting regularly.
How: Harvest by twisting the stalk, so it separates from the root. Gather 3 or 4 stems from each plant, after the leaves have opened fully and have reached full size. I prefer to harvest by just taking a few stalks occasionally. However some people harvest intensively for about two months and then leave the plants alone, so they can build up reserves of food. Never take more than half of the stems from a plant at one time. Also don't harvest in the first season after planting.
Storage:
Cut rhubarb stalks into chunks, 1" in size, and seal in an airtight bag. Frozen rhubarb will keep up to a year at 0˚ F.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Remove all leaves and store just the stalks in a plastic bag.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Seed Saving:
Cucumbers are cross-pollinated by bees, and so must either be isolated by at least 1000 yards or hand pollinated. Hand pollination is fairly straightforward because the flowers are so large. It is done in the same way as for Squash flowers. Make sure you select the best and most typical plants for producing seed.
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Rhubarb is undeniably tart and usually requires lots of sweetener to make it palatable. It tends to be a plant you either love or can't understand why anyone would eat it!
Culinary Use:
Rhubarb is an acquired taste, as it is very sour and needs a lot of sugar to make it palatable.
Leaf stem: raw or cooked. An acid taste, it is used as a fruit substitute in spring, usually stewed with sugar and used in pies, jams etc. The juice strained from stewed rhubarb can add color and flavor to a fruit punch. It is best not to eat large quantities of the stems because of their oxalic acid content.
Immature flowers: cooked and used like cauliflower. One report says that the plant contains 0.7% rutin. It does not specify which part of the plant, though it is likely to be the leaves.
Medicinal:
The roots of many members of this genus are used medicinally. Whilst R. palmatum is the main species used in China, we have a report that this species (which has probably been derived from it through cultivation) is used in Korea. The uses of R. palmatum are as follows:- Chinese rhubarb, called Da Huang in China, has a long and proven history of herbal usage, its main effect being a positive and balancing effect upon the whole digestive system. It is one of the most widely used herbs in Chinese medicine. It has a safe and gentle action, safe even for children to use. The plant is also part of a North American formula called essiac which is a popular treatment for cancer. Its effectiveness has never been reliably proven or disproven since controlled studies have not been carried out. The other herbs included in the formula are Arctium lappa, Ulmus rubra and Rumex acetosella. The root is anti-cholesterolemic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, anti-tumor, aperient, astringent, cholagogue, demulcent, diuretic, laxative, purgative, stomachic and tonic. The roots contain anthraquinones, which have a purgative effect, and also tannins and bitters, which have an opposite astringent effect. When taken in small doses, it acts as an astringent tonic to the digestive system, whilst larger doses act as a mild laxative. The root is taken internally in the treatment of chronic constipation, diarrhea, liver and gall bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, menstrual problems and skin eruptions due to an accumulation of toxins. This remedy is not prescribed for pregnant or lactating women, nor for patients with intestinal obstruction. Externally, the root is used in the treatment of burns. The roots are harvested in October from plants that are at least six years old, they are then dried for later use. A homeopathic remedy is prepared from the dried root. This is used especially in the treatment of diarrhea in teething children.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Rhubarb is a good friend to columbine flowers, as it repels spider mites. Rhubarb also protects beans against black fly infestation. Garlic and onions are good rhubarb-companions through smell, as they do the opposite, but to the same outcome. They repel aphids which love to get at the rhubarb. Sweet peppers act in the same way.
Problems:
Crown rot may occur, particularly in wet, poorly drained soils. Raised bed plantings should be considered in heavy clay soils. Leaf spots may occur on the foliage, but usually do not affect the quality of the crop.
Other Uses:
The leaves can be simmered in hot water to make an insecticide.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot: Rhubarb requires temperatures below 40˚ F to establish dormancy, and summer temperatures averaging less than 75˚ F for vigorous vegetative growth. The Northern U.S. and Canada are well suited for rhubarb production. In the United states it grows best in the northern states from Maine South to Illinois and West to Washington state. Once planted, rhubarb remains productive for 8 to 15 years.
Rhubarb can be grown in the Southern regions of the United States if it is grown as an annual. However, it will wilt very quickly on hot days (over 90˚ F). Excessive heat may cause Rhubarb to produce only thin leaf stalks which lack color.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 75°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. Germination will be slow until the soil warms up to 40˚F.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". In warmer soils, plant 1/2" deep, and plant 1/4" deep in cooler soils.
Spacing: 24.0"-48.0", (1 per 3x3) plants per sq ft. Rhubarb can get to be quite a big plant and you should put the crowns approximately 3' apart in each direction.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Crop Care After First year: Rhubarb is a very independent plant and needs relatively little care.
Rhubarb is in the ground for a long time, so choose a site where it won’t be disturbed. It should be well away from shrubs or trees, whose roots might take nutrients away from it.
Plants should be divided every 4 or 5 years, to prevent overcrowding. Divide the roots to leave at least one, and preferably two, buds on each piece of root.
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet. Don't let the soil become soggy, as crown rot may occur.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Rhubarb prefers a deep, rich, fertile soil because it's a fairly hungry plant.
Side Dressing: Compost (Nitrogen), 2", 1 time, Apply a 2˝ layer of compost or aged manure annually. This keeps down weeds, conserves moisture and feeds the soil (which then feeds the plants.)
Watering: Water, 1 gallon, 1 time a week In dry climates Rhubarb needs regular watering to keep it productive, otherwise it will go dormant in summer.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening:
The individual stalks are ready to harvest when the leaf opens. Each one should be at least 1/2" in diameter and preferably 1" or more. Be sure not to harvest stalks during the plant's first year.
When and How: Cut & Come Again
When: During the first year of planting, the stalks should not be picked, since food from the leaves is needed to nourish the roots for the next year’s growth. One light picking may be taken during the year following planting if the plants are vigorous, and beginning the second year following planting, the you can start harvesting regularly.
How: Harvest by twisting the stalk, so it separates from the root. Gather 3 or 4 stems from each plant, after the leaves have opened fully and have reached full size. I prefer to harvest by just taking a few stalks occasionally. However some people harvest intensively for about two months and then leave the plants alone, so they can build up reserves of food. Never take more than half of the stems from a plant at one time. Also don't harvest in the first season after planting.
Storage:
Cut rhubarb stalks into chunks, 1" in size, and seal in an airtight bag. Frozen rhubarb will keep up to a year at 0˚ F.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Remove all leaves and store just the stalks in a plastic bag.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Seed Saving:
Cucumbers are cross-pollinated by bees, and so must either be isolated by at least 1000 yards or hand pollinated. Hand pollination is fairly straightforward because the flowers are so large. It is done in the same way as for Squash flowers. Make sure you select the best and most typical plants for producing seed.
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary:
Taste:
Rhubarb is undeniably tart and usually requires lots of sweetener to make it palatable. It tends to be a plant you either love or can't understand why anyone would eat it!
Culinary Use:
Rhubarb is an acquired taste, as it is very sour and needs a lot of sugar to make it palatable.
Leaf stem: raw or cooked. An acid taste, it is used as a fruit substitute in spring, usually stewed with sugar and used in pies, jams etc. The juice strained from stewed rhubarb can add color and flavor to a fruit punch. It is best not to eat large quantities of the stems because of their oxalic acid content.
Immature flowers: cooked and used like cauliflower. One report says that the plant contains 0.7% rutin. It does not specify which part of the plant, though it is likely to be the leaves.
Medicinal:
The roots of many members of this genus are used medicinally. Whilst R. palmatum is the main species used in China, we have a report that this species (which has probably been derived from it through cultivation) is used in Korea. The uses of R. palmatum are as follows:- Chinese rhubarb, called Da Huang in China, has a long and proven history of herbal usage, its main effect being a positive and balancing effect upon the whole digestive system. It is one of the most widely used herbs in Chinese medicine. It has a safe and gentle action, safe even for children to use. The plant is also part of a North American formula called essiac which is a popular treatment for cancer. Its effectiveness has never been reliably proven or disproven since controlled studies have not been carried out. The other herbs included in the formula are Arctium lappa, Ulmus rubra and Rumex acetosella. The root is anti-cholesterolemic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, anti-tumor, aperient, astringent, cholagogue, demulcent, diuretic, laxative, purgative, stomachic and tonic. The roots contain anthraquinones, which have a purgative effect, and also tannins and bitters, which have an opposite astringent effect. When taken in small doses, it acts as an astringent tonic to the digestive system, whilst larger doses act as a mild laxative. The root is taken internally in the treatment of chronic constipation, diarrhea, liver and gall bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, menstrual problems and skin eruptions due to an accumulation of toxins. This remedy is not prescribed for pregnant or lactating women, nor for patients with intestinal obstruction. Externally, the root is used in the treatment of burns. The roots are harvested in October from plants that are at least six years old, they are then dried for later use. A homeopathic remedy is prepared from the dried root. This is used especially in the treatment of diarrhea in teething children.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Rhubarb is a good friend to columbine flowers, as it repels spider mites. Rhubarb also protects beans against black fly infestation. Garlic and onions are good rhubarb-companions through smell, as they do the opposite, but to the same outcome. They repel aphids which love to get at the rhubarb. Sweet peppers act in the same way.
Problems:
Crown rot may occur, particularly in wet, poorly drained soils. Raised bed plantings should be considered in heavy clay soils. Leaf spots may occur on the foliage, but usually do not affect the quality of the crop.
Other Uses:
The leaves can be simmered in hot water to make an insecticide.
Salsify
How to Grow Salsify
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Salsify seeds are quite slow to germinate, taking almost three weeks at 60 degrees F. It may not germinate well if the soil is very warm, which could be a problem if you are planting in mid summer. You could try cooling the soil a little by repeated watering with cold water. The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings aren't very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply.
Salsify doesn't grow very well above 75 degrees F, so roots that mature in warm summer weather are generally inferior to those maturing in the cold weather of late autumn. For this reason salsify is really a fall crop.
Salsify needs constant moisture (especially when the roots are sizing up), so don't let the soil get too dry.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking almost 3 weeks at 60°F. It may not germinate well if the soil is very warm, which could be a problem if you are planting in mid summer. You could try cooling the soil a little by repeated watering with cold water.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings aren't very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply. Some people plant a few radishes along with the salsify. The theory is that the fast germinating radishes break up the soil surface, making it easier for the salsify to emerge (they also mark the rows).
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants largely determines how big they can get. If you want very large roots, space them 4" or 5" apart in the beds. For average sized roots space them 3" apart.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks before last frost date:
When: In cool summer areas you can grow salsify as a spring crop. Salsify are even slower to germinate in hot soil and will be overwhelmed by weeds before they can germinate, so plant early!
How: Sow seeds 1/8 - 1/4" deep, 1" apart. The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings aren't very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply. Some people plant a few radishes along with the salisfy. The theory is that the fast germinating radishes break up the soil surface, making it easier for the salsify to emerge (they also mark the rows).
Salsify seed is considered to be temperamental and you often read warnings against using seed that is more than one year old. The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking almost 3 weeks at 60˚ F.
Fall Crop:
12-14 weeks before first frost date: Salsify doesn’t grow very well above 75° F, so roots that mature in warm summer weather are generally inferior to those maturing in the cold weather of late autumn. For this reason salsify are really a fall crop. As an autumn crop there is no rush to get them in the ground, unless the growing season is very short. They are usually planted in mid summer so as to mature around the time of the first fall frost. They will then sit in the ground until needed.
Salsify seeds are considered to be temperamental and you often read warnings against using seed that is more than one year old. The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking almost 3 weeks at 60˚ F.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Salsify is a hardy and robust plant and once established it is perfectly capable of looking after itself.
Water Needs: Moderate. Salsify needs constant moisture (especially when the roots are sizing up), so don't let the soil get too dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Salsify is a good crop to plant after potatoes. They like the deeply dug soil and the previous heavy fertilization. If the soil isn't very fertile, give your plants a regular feed of compost tea or liquid seaweed every month.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Young salsify doesn’t compete with weeds very well, so the soil must be weeded carefully. This should be done by hand, as hoes can easily damage the shoulders of the root. Older plants are better able to compete against most weeds as they produce an abundance of foliage.
Watering, after sowing: Water, 0.5 inches apart, after sowing, 2 times a week. Keep salsify moist, but not saturated. If they don't get enough water they can get tough and are more likely to rot or split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water. Seeds may take 2–3 weeks to germinate and soil must not dry out. Radishes may be used to prevent soil crusting and to mark the location.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time a month. If the soil isn’t very fertile, give your plants a regular feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every month.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. If you want the plants to grow quickly, without competition from neighboring plants, they must be properly thinned. This is one of the most crucial aspects of raising good salsify. When all of the seedlings are up and growing, thin them to the desired spacing, taking out the weakest plants where possible. Don’t wait too long to do this as their roots and tops will soon get tangled. Thin 4 - 6" apart.
Protecting, when 4" tall: Mulch, 1 layer, when 4" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful to keep the soil moist, suppress weeds and to cover the shoulders of the roots.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: It is recommended to leave salsify in the ground until after the first frost, as this greatly enhances the flavor.
Storage:
Salsify can be stored in the refrigerator for weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-28 days
Large quantities of salsify can be stored over the winter in a clamp. This works best in light, well drained soil and should be in a sheltered position.
Start by digging out the soil in the area of the clamp to a depth of 10" and then lay down a 3" to 6" layer of straw or dry leaves (you might first lay down a layer of Gopher wire to foil rodents). A piece of perforated pipe is arranged in the center and the roots are placed around it to form a cone or prism shaped pile (a vent can also be constructed from straw). The pile is then covered with a 6" layer of straw (more in very cold climates) or leaves. Finally the straw is covered with a 6" layer of soil, which is packed down with a spade. Some of this soil comes from the original excavation; the rest is obtained by digging a drainage trench around the clamp. Keep the vent open on top of the clamp unless it gets very cold, in which case it should be closed up with straw.
Salsify are one of the best crops for winter use. They are so hardy they can be stored in the ground all winter and dug as required. A thick mulch of straw can be used to prevent the ground from freezing so they are easier to dig (it may also protect the roots). If mice are a problem you may have to lay down wire mesh before you apply the mulch.
An ideal temperature would be 35-40F to keep the plants from growing.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
For longer storage, store them in a root cellar in damp sand or peat moss. It is possible to store salsify for up to 6 months in a root cellar, at 32° to 40° F and 90% humidity. Put the roots in a garbage can or a wooden box. Make alternate layers of damp sand (or sawdust or peat moss) and salsify. Make sure the roots don’t touch each other or they may rot.
Storage Req: Cold, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Seed Saving:
It's easier to save parsnip seed than most other biennials, because they are so hardy there is no problem getting them through the winter. You don't have to store the roots inside or even protect them outside (though you might want to move them to a more convenient place). Parsnips flower in the spring of their second year. They are cross-pollinated by insects, so you should grow only one variety at a time (or you could isolate them). They will also cross with Wild Parsnip, which is the wild form of this plant (this is common in some areas). Save seed from at least a half dozen plants to maintain some genetic diversity. Gather the ripe seeds from the umbels in summer (don't wait so long that they fall off) and dry thoroughly. They will need at least a month of after-ripening before they will germinate.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Deliciously sweet and nutty.
Culinary Use: Salsify must be peeled and the top cut off. Salsify are so rich in flavor they can be eaten steamed, roasted, used in soups, stews and sauces. Salsify, carrots, fennel and celery root can be roast together for a true winter delight.
Root: raw or cooked. The young root can be grated in salads, older roots are best cooked. The flavour is mild and sweet, and is said to resemble oysters. The roots are harvested as required from October until early spring, or can be harvested in late autumn and stored until required.
Young shoots: raw or cooked. The new growth is used in spring. A sweet taste.
Flowering shoots: raw or cooked. Used like asparagus.
Flowers: raw. Added to salads. The sprouted seeds can be added to salads or sandwiches. The root latex is used as a chewing gum.
Medicinal:
Salsify is a cleansing food with a beneficial effect upon the liver and gallbladder. The root is anti-bilious, slightly aperient, deobstruent and diuretic. It is specific in the treatment of obstructions of the gall bladder and jaundice and is also used in the treatment of arteriosclerosis and high blood pressure.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Carrots, turnips, rutabaga, potatoes, sweet potatoes.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Salsify seeds are quite slow to germinate, taking almost three weeks at 60 degrees F. It may not germinate well if the soil is very warm, which could be a problem if you are planting in mid summer. You could try cooling the soil a little by repeated watering with cold water. The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings aren't very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply.
Salsify doesn't grow very well above 75 degrees F, so roots that mature in warm summer weather are generally inferior to those maturing in the cold weather of late autumn. For this reason salsify is really a fall crop.
Salsify needs constant moisture (especially when the roots are sizing up), so don't let the soil get too dry.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 40°F. The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking almost 3 weeks at 60°F. It may not germinate well if the soil is very warm, which could be a problem if you are planting in mid summer. You could try cooling the soil a little by repeated watering with cold water.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings aren't very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply. Some people plant a few radishes along with the salsify. The theory is that the fast germinating radishes break up the soil surface, making it easier for the salsify to emerge (they also mark the rows).
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants largely determines how big they can get. If you want very large roots, space them 4" or 5" apart in the beds. For average sized roots space them 3" apart.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks before last frost date:
When: In cool summer areas you can grow salsify as a spring crop. Salsify are even slower to germinate in hot soil and will be overwhelmed by weeds before they can germinate, so plant early!
How: Sow seeds 1/8 - 1/4" deep, 1" apart. The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings aren't very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply. Some people plant a few radishes along with the salisfy. The theory is that the fast germinating radishes break up the soil surface, making it easier for the salsify to emerge (they also mark the rows).
Salsify seed is considered to be temperamental and you often read warnings against using seed that is more than one year old. The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking almost 3 weeks at 60˚ F.
Fall Crop:
12-14 weeks before first frost date: Salsify doesn’t grow very well above 75° F, so roots that mature in warm summer weather are generally inferior to those maturing in the cold weather of late autumn. For this reason salsify are really a fall crop. As an autumn crop there is no rush to get them in the ground, unless the growing season is very short. They are usually planted in mid summer so as to mature around the time of the first fall frost. They will then sit in the ground until needed.
Salsify seeds are considered to be temperamental and you often read warnings against using seed that is more than one year old. The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking almost 3 weeks at 60˚ F.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Salsify is a hardy and robust plant and once established it is perfectly capable of looking after itself.
Water Needs: Moderate. Salsify needs constant moisture (especially when the roots are sizing up), so don't let the soil get too dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Salsify is a good crop to plant after potatoes. They like the deeply dug soil and the previous heavy fertilization. If the soil isn't very fertile, give your plants a regular feed of compost tea or liquid seaweed every month.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Young salsify doesn’t compete with weeds very well, so the soil must be weeded carefully. This should be done by hand, as hoes can easily damage the shoulders of the root. Older plants are better able to compete against most weeds as they produce an abundance of foliage.
Watering, after sowing: Water, 0.5 inches apart, after sowing, 2 times a week. Keep salsify moist, but not saturated. If they don't get enough water they can get tough and are more likely to rot or split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water. Seeds may take 2–3 weeks to germinate and soil must not dry out. Radishes may be used to prevent soil crusting and to mark the location.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time a month. If the soil isn’t very fertile, give your plants a regular feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every month.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. If you want the plants to grow quickly, without competition from neighboring plants, they must be properly thinned. This is one of the most crucial aspects of raising good salsify. When all of the seedlings are up and growing, thin them to the desired spacing, taking out the weakest plants where possible. Don’t wait too long to do this as their roots and tops will soon get tangled. Thin 4 - 6" apart.
Protecting, when 4" tall: Mulch, 1 layer, when 4" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful to keep the soil moist, suppress weeds and to cover the shoulders of the roots.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: It is recommended to leave salsify in the ground until after the first frost, as this greatly enhances the flavor.
Storage:
Salsify can be stored in the refrigerator for weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-28 days
Large quantities of salsify can be stored over the winter in a clamp. This works best in light, well drained soil and should be in a sheltered position.
Start by digging out the soil in the area of the clamp to a depth of 10" and then lay down a 3" to 6" layer of straw or dry leaves (you might first lay down a layer of Gopher wire to foil rodents). A piece of perforated pipe is arranged in the center and the roots are placed around it to form a cone or prism shaped pile (a vent can also be constructed from straw). The pile is then covered with a 6" layer of straw (more in very cold climates) or leaves. Finally the straw is covered with a 6" layer of soil, which is packed down with a spade. Some of this soil comes from the original excavation; the rest is obtained by digging a drainage trench around the clamp. Keep the vent open on top of the clamp unless it gets very cold, in which case it should be closed up with straw.
Salsify are one of the best crops for winter use. They are so hardy they can be stored in the ground all winter and dug as required. A thick mulch of straw can be used to prevent the ground from freezing so they are easier to dig (it may also protect the roots). If mice are a problem you may have to lay down wire mesh before you apply the mulch.
An ideal temperature would be 35-40F to keep the plants from growing.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
For longer storage, store them in a root cellar in damp sand or peat moss. It is possible to store salsify for up to 6 months in a root cellar, at 32° to 40° F and 90% humidity. Put the roots in a garbage can or a wooden box. Make alternate layers of damp sand (or sawdust or peat moss) and salsify. Make sure the roots don’t touch each other or they may rot.
Storage Req: Cold, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Seed Saving:
It's easier to save parsnip seed than most other biennials, because they are so hardy there is no problem getting them through the winter. You don't have to store the roots inside or even protect them outside (though you might want to move them to a more convenient place). Parsnips flower in the spring of their second year. They are cross-pollinated by insects, so you should grow only one variety at a time (or you could isolate them). They will also cross with Wild Parsnip, which is the wild form of this plant (this is common in some areas). Save seed from at least a half dozen plants to maintain some genetic diversity. Gather the ripe seeds from the umbels in summer (don't wait so long that they fall off) and dry thoroughly. They will need at least a month of after-ripening before they will germinate.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Taste: Deliciously sweet and nutty.
Culinary Use: Salsify must be peeled and the top cut off. Salsify are so rich in flavor they can be eaten steamed, roasted, used in soups, stews and sauces. Salsify, carrots, fennel and celery root can be roast together for a true winter delight.
Root: raw or cooked. The young root can be grated in salads, older roots are best cooked. The flavour is mild and sweet, and is said to resemble oysters. The roots are harvested as required from October until early spring, or can be harvested in late autumn and stored until required.
Young shoots: raw or cooked. The new growth is used in spring. A sweet taste.
Flowering shoots: raw or cooked. Used like asparagus.
Flowers: raw. Added to salads. The sprouted seeds can be added to salads or sandwiches. The root latex is used as a chewing gum.
Medicinal:
Salsify is a cleansing food with a beneficial effect upon the liver and gallbladder. The root is anti-bilious, slightly aperient, deobstruent and diuretic. It is specific in the treatment of obstructions of the gall bladder and jaundice and is also used in the treatment of arteriosclerosis and high blood pressure.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Carrots, turnips, rutabaga, potatoes, sweet potatoes.
Spinach
How to Grow Spinach
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Spinach is normally sown into fairly cold soil, so is usually planted at a shallow depth.
Soil temp for germination: 35°F to 75°F, optimal 50°F to 65°F, optimal 50°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 6 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before first frost date: Spinach doesn’t like transplanting (it can cause bolting), but it can be started indoors in soil blocks or cell packs.
1. Sow seeds 1/2" deep.
2. You can even multi-plant it to get several seeds per block.
Don’t get it too warm, otherwise it won’t produce well when transplanted outdoors.
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: You must sow Spinach early if you are to get a useful crop before heat or long days cause it to bolt. Spinach doesn’t like transplanting (it can cause bolting), but it can be started indoors in soil blocks or cell packs.
1. Sow seeds 1/2" deep.
2. You can even multi-plant it to get several seeds per block.
Don’t get it too warm, otherwise it won’t produce well when transplanted outdoors.
Transplant Outdoors:
4 weeks before first frost date: Once seedlings are large enough transplant them outdoors at their final spacing of 4 to 6".
Cold, Cool, Warm: More than any other common crop, spinach doesn't like warm weather. It actually germinates best at only 50 degrees F. It germinates more rapidly at higher temperatures, but at 70 degrees F only about half the seeds will germinate. Spinach bolts when exposed to long summer days, so it is usually grown as a spring or autumn crop. It's much less prone to bolting in the shorter, cooler days and the leaves grow larger and more succulent. Each plant doesn't produce very much, so it is usually grown in wide intensive beds. Raised beds are good because they warm up quickly in spring and tend to be well drained.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Spinach germinates well at low temperatures.
Spacing: 6-8", 4 plants per sq ft. Square Foot: 3" apart in 3 rows.
Intensive: 4-8" apart.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: More than any other common crop, spinach doesn't like warm weather. It actually germinates best at only 50 degrees F. It germinates more rapidly at higher temperatures, but at 70 degrees F only about half the seeds will germinate. Spinach bolts when exposed to long summer days, so it is usually grown as a spring or autumn crop. It's much less prone to bolting in the shorter, cooler days and the leaves grow larger and more succulent. Each plant doesn't produce very much, so it is usually grown in wide intensive beds. Raised beds are good because they warm up quickly in spring and tend to be well drained.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Spinach germinates well at low temperatures.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Spinach is normally sown into fairly cold soil, so is usually planted at a shallow depth.
Spacing: 6-8", 4 plants per sq ft. Square Foot: 3" apart in 3 rows.
Intensive: 4-8" apart.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: You must sow Spinach early if you are to get a useful crop before heat or long days cause it to bolt. Spinach sown directly into cold spring soil is slow to germinate, so some gardeners pre-germinate it first. Alternatively you could warm the soil with plastic or cloches.
1. Sow the seed 1/2˝ deep (1/4˝ in cold soil) and 1-2˝ apart (either broadcast or in wide rows).
2. Some gardeners mark the location of the slow germinating seeds by sowing a few Radishes along with the Spinach.
Fall Crop:
4-8 weeks before first frost date: Spinach does best as a fall crop, because the days are getting shorter and it doesn’t bolt so readily. The soil must be cool enough for good germination however. You can sow the seeds 4-8 weeks before the first autumn frost date, depending upon your conditions. In areas with mild winters, some varieties of Spinach can be grown as a winter crop. They are hardy down to 25˚ F and don’t bolt in the cool, short days. Spinach won’t take hard frost unprotected, but it can be grown in harsher climates, if it is under the cover of cloches or cold frames. The key to success as a winter crop is for the plants to get big enough before cool weather hits. They will then continue to grow throughout the winter. If they are not big enough, they will just sit there looking sorry for themselves.
1. Sow the seed 1/2˝ deep (1/4˝ in cold soil) and 1-2˝ apart (either broadcast or in wide rows).
2. Some gardeners mark the location of the slow germinating seeds by sowing a few Radishes along with the Spinach.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Spinach must grow quickly to produce the highest quality food. This means giving it optimal conditions; as much water and nutrients as it requires and no competition from weeds or crowding neighbors (all these factors can contribute to bolting).
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist (not wet) otherwise it may bolt. Fortunately this isn't usually a problem in the cool weather preferred by spinach. Try to avoid splashing mud on the leaves as it can make them gritty. Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Spinach needs a moderate amount of nitrogen and potassium and a fairly small amount of phosphorous.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. Spinach can bolt if overcrowded, so thin the plants carefully to 2-4˝ apart when they have all emerged.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Row cover, 1 layer, when 3" tall, 1 time. Spinach is commonly attacked by leaf miners. If they become very bad you may have to protect them by covering with a layer of row cover.
Thinning, when 4" tall: 6" apart, when 4" tall, 1 time. When the plants are 4˝ high, thin them again to a final spacing of 4-8˝ (this time the thinnings will be big enough to eat). Usually you will thin/harvest every other plant to begin with. If you desire delicious young tender Spinach, you can plant Spinach closer together than the variety requirements but you must constantly thin the outer leaves. Leave at least 6 leaves on the plant. Don’t let leaves get larger than 6”.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., when 4" tall, every 3 weeks
Spinach likes nitrogen, so give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) when it starts to produce harvestable leaves.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Depending on the size and quantities you want. Begin to harvest as soon as leaves are of sufficient quantity and size.
Storage:
If you have so much spinach you can't use it all, it can be frozen for later use.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Use the leaves as soon as possible after harvest, as they only last for a few days in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Spinach plants are dioecious (there are separate male and female plants) so all plants don't produce seed. Saving seed is fairly straightforward, you just allow a patch of plants to bolt, which they will eventually do anyway. The first plants to bolt are males, which have smaller leaves. You don't need a lot of males, but some are necessary for fertilization (keep 1 male for every 2 females). Don't gather seed from the first females to appear, as you don't want to create an early flowering strain.
Spinach is wind pollinated and to keep it pure it must be isolated from other varieties by at least a 1/2 mile. Female plants may grow to 4 feet in height and produce a lot of seed.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Spinach must be washed carefully to get all of the soil off the leaves. Spinach can be eaten raw or cooked, used in soups, salads, as a side dish, creamed, in tarts and served hot or cold. Spinach is most tender when young so take the opportunity to harvest young leaves for their delicate flavor.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Tender young leaves can be added to salads, older leaves are used as greens or added to soups etc. Chlorophyll extracted from the leaves is used as an edible green dye.
Seeds: raw or cooked. It can be sprouted and added to salads.
Known Hazards: The leaves of most varieties of spinach are high in oxalic acid. Although not toxic, this substance does lock up certain minerals in a meal, especially calcium, making them unavailable to the body. Therefore mineral deficiencies can result from eating too much of any leaf that contains oxalic acid. However, the mineral content of spinach leaves is quite high so the negatives are to a large extent outweighed by the benefits. There are also special low-oxalic varieties of spinach that have been developed. Cooking the leaves will also reduce the content of oxalic acid. People with a tendency to rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones or hyperacidity should take especial caution if including this plant in their diet since it can aggravate their condition.
Medicinal:
The plant is carminative and laxative. In experiments it has been shown to have hypoglycaemic properties. It has been used in the treatment of urinary calculi. The leaves have been used in the treatment of febrile conditions, inflammation of the lungs and the bowels. The seeds are laxative and cooling. They have been used in the treatment of difficult breathing, inflammation of the liver and jaundice.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with peas and beans as they provide natural shade for the spinach. Gets along with cabbage, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion, peas, strawberries and fava bean. Plant spinach with squash. It's a good use of space because by the time squash plants start to get big the spinach is ready to bolt.
Problems:
Downy mildew and blight/cucumber mosaic disease. Leaf miner.
Other Uses:
Other uses of the herb: A yellow dye is obtained from the leaves.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Spinach is normally sown into fairly cold soil, so is usually planted at a shallow depth.
Soil temp for germination: 35°F to 75°F, optimal 50°F to 65°F, optimal 50°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 6 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before first frost date: Spinach doesn’t like transplanting (it can cause bolting), but it can be started indoors in soil blocks or cell packs.
1. Sow seeds 1/2" deep.
2. You can even multi-plant it to get several seeds per block.
Don’t get it too warm, otherwise it won’t produce well when transplanted outdoors.
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: You must sow Spinach early if you are to get a useful crop before heat or long days cause it to bolt. Spinach doesn’t like transplanting (it can cause bolting), but it can be started indoors in soil blocks or cell packs.
1. Sow seeds 1/2" deep.
2. You can even multi-plant it to get several seeds per block.
Don’t get it too warm, otherwise it won’t produce well when transplanted outdoors.
Transplant Outdoors:
4 weeks before first frost date: Once seedlings are large enough transplant them outdoors at their final spacing of 4 to 6".
Cold, Cool, Warm: More than any other common crop, spinach doesn't like warm weather. It actually germinates best at only 50 degrees F. It germinates more rapidly at higher temperatures, but at 70 degrees F only about half the seeds will germinate. Spinach bolts when exposed to long summer days, so it is usually grown as a spring or autumn crop. It's much less prone to bolting in the shorter, cooler days and the leaves grow larger and more succulent. Each plant doesn't produce very much, so it is usually grown in wide intensive beds. Raised beds are good because they warm up quickly in spring and tend to be well drained.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Spinach germinates well at low temperatures.
Spacing: 6-8", 4 plants per sq ft. Square Foot: 3" apart in 3 rows.
Intensive: 4-8" apart.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool, Warm: More than any other common crop, spinach doesn't like warm weather. It actually germinates best at only 50 degrees F. It germinates more rapidly at higher temperatures, but at 70 degrees F only about half the seeds will germinate. Spinach bolts when exposed to long summer days, so it is usually grown as a spring or autumn crop. It's much less prone to bolting in the shorter, cooler days and the leaves grow larger and more succulent. Each plant doesn't produce very much, so it is usually grown in wide intensive beds. Raised beds are good because they warm up quickly in spring and tend to be well drained.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Spinach germinates well at low temperatures.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Spinach is normally sown into fairly cold soil, so is usually planted at a shallow depth.
Spacing: 6-8", 4 plants per sq ft. Square Foot: 3" apart in 3 rows.
Intensive: 4-8" apart.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: You must sow Spinach early if you are to get a useful crop before heat or long days cause it to bolt. Spinach sown directly into cold spring soil is slow to germinate, so some gardeners pre-germinate it first. Alternatively you could warm the soil with plastic or cloches.
1. Sow the seed 1/2˝ deep (1/4˝ in cold soil) and 1-2˝ apart (either broadcast or in wide rows).
2. Some gardeners mark the location of the slow germinating seeds by sowing a few Radishes along with the Spinach.
Fall Crop:
4-8 weeks before first frost date: Spinach does best as a fall crop, because the days are getting shorter and it doesn’t bolt so readily. The soil must be cool enough for good germination however. You can sow the seeds 4-8 weeks before the first autumn frost date, depending upon your conditions. In areas with mild winters, some varieties of Spinach can be grown as a winter crop. They are hardy down to 25˚ F and don’t bolt in the cool, short days. Spinach won’t take hard frost unprotected, but it can be grown in harsher climates, if it is under the cover of cloches or cold frames. The key to success as a winter crop is for the plants to get big enough before cool weather hits. They will then continue to grow throughout the winter. If they are not big enough, they will just sit there looking sorry for themselves.
1. Sow the seed 1/2˝ deep (1/4˝ in cold soil) and 1-2˝ apart (either broadcast or in wide rows).
2. Some gardeners mark the location of the slow germinating seeds by sowing a few Radishes along with the Spinach.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Spinach must grow quickly to produce the highest quality food. This means giving it optimal conditions; as much water and nutrients as it requires and no competition from weeds or crowding neighbors (all these factors can contribute to bolting).
Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist (not wet) otherwise it may bolt. Fortunately this isn't usually a problem in the cool weather preferred by spinach. Try to avoid splashing mud on the leaves as it can make them gritty. Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Spinach needs a moderate amount of nitrogen and potassium and a fairly small amount of phosphorous.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. Spinach can bolt if overcrowded, so thin the plants carefully to 2-4˝ apart when they have all emerged.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Row cover, 1 layer, when 3" tall, 1 time. Spinach is commonly attacked by leaf miners. If they become very bad you may have to protect them by covering with a layer of row cover.
Thinning, when 4" tall: 6" apart, when 4" tall, 1 time. When the plants are 4˝ high, thin them again to a final spacing of 4-8˝ (this time the thinnings will be big enough to eat). Usually you will thin/harvest every other plant to begin with. If you desire delicious young tender Spinach, you can plant Spinach closer together than the variety requirements but you must constantly thin the outer leaves. Leave at least 6 leaves on the plant. Don’t let leaves get larger than 6”.
Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., when 4" tall, every 3 weeks
Spinach likes nitrogen, so give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) when it starts to produce harvestable leaves.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Depending on the size and quantities you want. Begin to harvest as soon as leaves are of sufficient quantity and size.
Storage:
If you have so much spinach you can't use it all, it can be frozen for later use.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Use the leaves as soon as possible after harvest, as they only last for a few days in a plastic bag in the fridge.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Spinach plants are dioecious (there are separate male and female plants) so all plants don't produce seed. Saving seed is fairly straightforward, you just allow a patch of plants to bolt, which they will eventually do anyway. The first plants to bolt are males, which have smaller leaves. You don't need a lot of males, but some are necessary for fertilization (keep 1 male for every 2 females). Don't gather seed from the first females to appear, as you don't want to create an early flowering strain.
Spinach is wind pollinated and to keep it pure it must be isolated from other varieties by at least a 1/2 mile. Female plants may grow to 4 feet in height and produce a lot of seed.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Spinach must be washed carefully to get all of the soil off the leaves. Spinach can be eaten raw or cooked, used in soups, salads, as a side dish, creamed, in tarts and served hot or cold. Spinach is most tender when young so take the opportunity to harvest young leaves for their delicate flavor.
Leaves: raw or cooked. Tender young leaves can be added to salads, older leaves are used as greens or added to soups etc. Chlorophyll extracted from the leaves is used as an edible green dye.
Seeds: raw or cooked. It can be sprouted and added to salads.
Known Hazards: The leaves of most varieties of spinach are high in oxalic acid. Although not toxic, this substance does lock up certain minerals in a meal, especially calcium, making them unavailable to the body. Therefore mineral deficiencies can result from eating too much of any leaf that contains oxalic acid. However, the mineral content of spinach leaves is quite high so the negatives are to a large extent outweighed by the benefits. There are also special low-oxalic varieties of spinach that have been developed. Cooking the leaves will also reduce the content of oxalic acid. People with a tendency to rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones or hyperacidity should take especial caution if including this plant in their diet since it can aggravate their condition.
Medicinal:
The plant is carminative and laxative. In experiments it has been shown to have hypoglycaemic properties. It has been used in the treatment of urinary calculi. The leaves have been used in the treatment of febrile conditions, inflammation of the lungs and the bowels. The seeds are laxative and cooling. They have been used in the treatment of difficult breathing, inflammation of the liver and jaundice.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Plant with peas and beans as they provide natural shade for the spinach. Gets along with cabbage, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion, peas, strawberries and fava bean. Plant spinach with squash. It's a good use of space because by the time squash plants start to get big the spinach is ready to bolt.
Problems:
Downy mildew and blight/cucumber mosaic disease. Leaf miner.
Other Uses:
Other uses of the herb: A yellow dye is obtained from the leaves.
Squash
How to Grow Squash
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Early Squash is usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil. Cucurbits in general dislike transplanting, so start them in individual containers. I like to use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. If containers are smaller than this you may have to pot them up before planting out, which is an additional chore. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks after last frost date: It’s important to plant the seedlings out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them as deep as their first true leaves. If cold weather threatens to return, you can cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Spacing: 12"-18", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft.
Intensive beds: Squash grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24 to 36" apart, depending upon how large the particular variety gets. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. Because squash spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Start Outdoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
When: Sow seeds in the garden as early as 2 weeks after the last average frost date in spring.
Crop Care:
Summer Squash is a vigorous plant and needs little care once established (unless you have insect problems). Often the main problem is keeping it from crowding other plants (give it plenty of space).
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Squash is with soaker hose, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Summer Squash is a hungry and fast growing crop and needs a steady supply of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 3 quarts, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the plants well watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give each plant 1 quart of liquid feed of compost tea every 2-4 weeks.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2" when 3" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon per plant, during fruit production, 2 times a week. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times, but particularly when the plants are bearing fruit. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest the fruit when they are 6 to 8" long, which should be about 4 to 6 days after pollination. Generally it's better to harvest them when still fairly small, though often they are still good when twice this size. If you pick them while they are small it's easier to consume all that are produced, so less are wasted.
Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: Harvest the fruit when they are 4" to 8" long, which should be about 4 to 6 days after pollination. Generally it's better to harvest them when still fairy small (4" is good), though often they are still good when twice this size.
How: Cut the fruits from the plant with a sharp knife to minimize damage to the vine. Leave a small section of stem on the fruit to prevent moisture loss and so improve storage life.
The male flowers are often used for food (leave enough to pollinate the females of course). Toss them in the salad bowl or add to any squash preparation.
Storage:
The fruits are best used fairly promptly. They will keep in good condition in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, but by that time you will have many more new ones, so it's best to get rid of them quickly.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Seed Saving:
Squash are cross-pollinated by insects. They will not only cross with other varieties of Summer Squash, but also some kinds of Winter Squash. This means you have to hand pollinate them, or isolate by one half mile. As with most Cucurbits you should save the seed from at least 5 plants to ensure enough genetic variability.
Hand pollination isn't as complicated as you might imagine. Go out in the evening and find some male and female flowers that are about to open the following day and tape them shut with 3/4" masking tape. The next day you open a male flower (from a different plant) and remove its petals. You then carefully open the female flower without damaging the petals, brush the pollen-laden anthers from the male on to the pistil lobes of the female and then tape it closed again (to prevent further pollination). This procedure should work about 50 to 75% of the time. It works even better if 2 male flowers are used to pollinate each female. You will soon know if the above has worked because a successfully pollinated flower will swell rapidly (mark it carefully so it isn't accidentally harvested). If pollination wasn't successful the flower will soon fall off.
You must leave the fertilized squash to mature fully on the vine. This will slow down further fruit production, or may even stop it altogether. When the fruit is fully ripe it will get woody like a Winter Squash. It takes time for the fruit to ripen fully, so allow plenty of time before frost - at least 60 days). You then clean the ripe seed, dry it thoroughly and store in a cool dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 6 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Creamy texture with memorable flavor.
Culinary Use:
Summer squash can be sauteed, steamed, roasted, grilled, used in stews, stuffed and made into soup. The fruits can be eaten when small for sweeter flavor.
The blossoms are also a treat when stuffed with cheese and fried!
Fruit: cooked. Some cultivars have a delicious flavor when baked, rather like a sweet potato. The flesh can be dried and ground into a powder then used in making breads etc. Some varieties can be stored for up to 9 months.
Seed: raw or cooked. Rich in oil with a pleasant nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves and young stems: cooked and used as a potherb or added to soups, stews etc.
Flowers: cooked.
Known Hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal:
The seed is vermifuge. It is eaten fresh or roasted for the relief of abdominal cramps and distension due to intestinal worms. About 800 peeled seeds is said to make a safe and effective treatment for tape worm. They are ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purge in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. The boiled root is galactogogue.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Beans, corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon, mint, onions and pumpkin.
Allies: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Dill may repel the squash bug that will kill your squash vines. Generously scatter the dill leaves on your squash plants.
Enemies: Keep squash away from potatoes.
Problems:
Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, and white flies. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Early Squash is usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil. Cucurbits in general dislike transplanting, so start them in individual containers. I like to use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. If containers are smaller than this you may have to pot them up before planting out, which is an additional chore. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-3 weeks after last frost date: It’s important to plant the seedlings out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them as deep as their first true leaves. If cold weather threatens to return, you can cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Spacing: 12"-18", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft.
Intensive beds: Squash grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24 to 36" apart, depending upon how large the particular variety gets. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. Because squash spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Start Outdoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
When: Sow seeds in the garden as early as 2 weeks after the last average frost date in spring.
Crop Care:
Summer Squash is a vigorous plant and needs little care once established (unless you have insect problems). Often the main problem is keeping it from crowding other plants (give it plenty of space).
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Squash is with soaker hose, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Summer Squash is a hungry and fast growing crop and needs a steady supply of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 3 quarts, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the plants well watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give each plant 1 quart of liquid feed of compost tea every 2-4 weeks.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2" when 3" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon per plant, during fruit production, 2 times a week. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times, but particularly when the plants are bearing fruit. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Harvesting:
Ripening: Harvest the fruit when they are 6 to 8" long, which should be about 4 to 6 days after pollination. Generally it's better to harvest them when still fairly small, though often they are still good when twice this size. If you pick them while they are small it's easier to consume all that are produced, so less are wasted.
Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: Harvest the fruit when they are 4" to 8" long, which should be about 4 to 6 days after pollination. Generally it's better to harvest them when still fairy small (4" is good), though often they are still good when twice this size.
How: Cut the fruits from the plant with a sharp knife to minimize damage to the vine. Leave a small section of stem on the fruit to prevent moisture loss and so improve storage life.
The male flowers are often used for food (leave enough to pollinate the females of course). Toss them in the salad bowl or add to any squash preparation.
Storage:
The fruits are best used fairly promptly. They will keep in good condition in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, but by that time you will have many more new ones, so it's best to get rid of them quickly.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Seed Saving:
Squash are cross-pollinated by insects. They will not only cross with other varieties of Summer Squash, but also some kinds of Winter Squash. This means you have to hand pollinate them, or isolate by one half mile. As with most Cucurbits you should save the seed from at least 5 plants to ensure enough genetic variability.
Hand pollination isn't as complicated as you might imagine. Go out in the evening and find some male and female flowers that are about to open the following day and tape them shut with 3/4" masking tape. The next day you open a male flower (from a different plant) and remove its petals. You then carefully open the female flower without damaging the petals, brush the pollen-laden anthers from the male on to the pistil lobes of the female and then tape it closed again (to prevent further pollination). This procedure should work about 50 to 75% of the time. It works even better if 2 male flowers are used to pollinate each female. You will soon know if the above has worked because a successfully pollinated flower will swell rapidly (mark it carefully so it isn't accidentally harvested). If pollination wasn't successful the flower will soon fall off.
You must leave the fertilized squash to mature fully on the vine. This will slow down further fruit production, or may even stop it altogether. When the fruit is fully ripe it will get woody like a Winter Squash. It takes time for the fruit to ripen fully, so allow plenty of time before frost - at least 60 days). You then clean the ripe seed, dry it thoroughly and store in a cool dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 6 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
Creamy texture with memorable flavor.
Culinary Use:
Summer squash can be sauteed, steamed, roasted, grilled, used in stews, stuffed and made into soup. The fruits can be eaten when small for sweeter flavor.
The blossoms are also a treat when stuffed with cheese and fried!
Fruit: cooked. Some cultivars have a delicious flavor when baked, rather like a sweet potato. The flesh can be dried and ground into a powder then used in making breads etc. Some varieties can be stored for up to 9 months.
Seed: raw or cooked. Rich in oil with a pleasant nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves and young stems: cooked and used as a potherb or added to soups, stews etc.
Flowers: cooked.
Known Hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal:
The seed is vermifuge. It is eaten fresh or roasted for the relief of abdominal cramps and distension due to intestinal worms. About 800 peeled seeds is said to make a safe and effective treatment for tape worm. They are ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purge in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. The boiled root is galactogogue.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Beans, corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon, mint, onions and pumpkin.
Allies: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Dill may repel the squash bug that will kill your squash vines. Generously scatter the dill leaves on your squash plants.
Enemies: Keep squash away from potatoes.
Problems:
Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, and white flies. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Swiss Chard
How to Grow Swiss Chard
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
10-14 weeks before first frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Get starts acclimated to their new outdoor temperatures. Place plants outside to harden off before Spring planting.
Transplant Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Chard is a robust and undemanding plant. Keep it well fed and watered and it should produce abundantly. Be mindful of pests (birds/slugs/snails) that will eat your seedlings during the beginning of growth. Use some type of cover over them to prevent pests. In summer, the chance of Leaf Miner damage is high. You can grow Chard in warm temperatures, but since the Leaf Miner damage is so bad, it's better to wait until cooler temperatures come.
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Chard is relatively drought tolerant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. If you are going to be harvesting intensively, you should feed the plants regularly with diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed). It's best to wait a week after fertilization until you begin to harvest again.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Mulch, 2", after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds while the plants are young (older plants can take care of themselves). It also helps to keep the soil cool and conserves moisture.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds germinate, you can start thinning. Don’t start too early though, as some may be damaged by cutworms, slugs, or other pests.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Thinning is best done in several stages as the plants get larger. You can use the thinnings for food, or as transplants (they transplant fairly well if less than 3˝ tall). The clusters don’t need much thinning as the strongest plant tends to take over.
Thinning, when 6" tall: 12" apart, when 6" tall, 1 time. If you want large plants you might even thin to the final spacing of 12" apart when the plants are 6" tall. You can use these thinnings for food.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can begin harvesting outer leaves when plants are well established and have 6 to 8 stalks. Break or cut stalks off at the base of the plant, always leaving at least 3 to 4 stalks to allow the plant to continue growing. It's best to take stalks from the outside, working your way in each day you harvest.
Storage:
For longer term storage Chard can be frozen like Spinach. This is useful for those times when the plants are producing far more than you can use immediately.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Use the leaves immediately after harvest, as they are thin and don’t keep for very long (only a few days in the fridge in a plastic bag).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Chard is cross pollinated by the wind, so must be isolated from other varieties (and from Beets). This means having only one variety flowering at one time (ideally within a distance of two miles, though this is not always practical unless you have a very big garden).
Chard is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates, you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar, as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering chard plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it from falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Colorful and dynamic cooked or raw in salads.
Culinary Uses:
Swiss Chard has many delicious uses in the kitchen. The leaves and the stems are often separated before cooking. The leaves can be steamed, sauteed, added to soups, or stuffed, and is often used similarly to spinach. The stems can be steamed, sauteed, or roasted with a little garlic and Parmesan cheese for a nice gratin dish. Young chard is sweet and tender, and can be added to a salad of fresh greens.
Leaves and leaf stems: raw or cooked like spinach. A very good spinach substitute, the leaves are large and easily harvested, yields are high. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth.
Flowering stem: cooked. A broccoli substitute.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Bean, cabbage family, tomato, onion and roses. Don't overlook chard's value as an ornamental plant in flower beds or wherever you have room for it.
Enemies: Don't grow chard near cucurbits, melons, corn or herbs.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Swiss Chard may suffer from seedling blight, fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, aphids and caterpillars.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
10-14 weeks before first frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Get starts acclimated to their new outdoor temperatures. Place plants outside to harden off before Spring planting.
Transplant Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Crop Care:
Chard is a robust and undemanding plant. Keep it well fed and watered and it should produce abundantly. Be mindful of pests (birds/slugs/snails) that will eat your seedlings during the beginning of growth. Use some type of cover over them to prevent pests. In summer, the chance of Leaf Miner damage is high. You can grow Chard in warm temperatures, but since the Leaf Miner damage is so bad, it's better to wait until cooler temperatures come.
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Chard is relatively drought tolerant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. If you are going to be harvesting intensively, you should feed the plants regularly with diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed). It's best to wait a week after fertilization until you begin to harvest again.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Mulch, 2", after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds while the plants are young (older plants can take care of themselves). It also helps to keep the soil cool and conserves moisture.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds germinate, you can start thinning. Don’t start too early though, as some may be damaged by cutworms, slugs, or other pests.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Thinning is best done in several stages as the plants get larger. You can use the thinnings for food, or as transplants (they transplant fairly well if less than 3˝ tall). The clusters don’t need much thinning as the strongest plant tends to take over.
Thinning, when 6" tall: 12" apart, when 6" tall, 1 time. If you want large plants you might even thin to the final spacing of 12" apart when the plants are 6" tall. You can use these thinnings for food.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: You can begin harvesting outer leaves when plants are well established and have 6 to 8 stalks. Break or cut stalks off at the base of the plant, always leaving at least 3 to 4 stalks to allow the plant to continue growing. It's best to take stalks from the outside, working your way in each day you harvest.
Storage:
For longer term storage Chard can be frozen like Spinach. This is useful for those times when the plants are producing far more than you can use immediately.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Use the leaves immediately after harvest, as they are thin and don’t keep for very long (only a few days in the fridge in a plastic bag).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Seed Saving:
Chard is cross pollinated by the wind, so must be isolated from other varieties (and from Beets). This means having only one variety flowering at one time (ideally within a distance of two miles, though this is not always practical unless you have a very big garden).
Chard is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates, you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar, as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering chard plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it from falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary:
Colorful and dynamic cooked or raw in salads.
Culinary Uses:
Swiss Chard has many delicious uses in the kitchen. The leaves and the stems are often separated before cooking. The leaves can be steamed, sauteed, added to soups, or stuffed, and is often used similarly to spinach. The stems can be steamed, sauteed, or roasted with a little garlic and Parmesan cheese for a nice gratin dish. Young chard is sweet and tender, and can be added to a salad of fresh greens.
Leaves and leaf stems: raw or cooked like spinach. A very good spinach substitute, the leaves are large and easily harvested, yields are high. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth.
Flowering stem: cooked. A broccoli substitute.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Bean, cabbage family, tomato, onion and roses. Don't overlook chard's value as an ornamental plant in flower beds or wherever you have room for it.
Enemies: Don't grow chard near cucurbits, melons, corn or herbs.
Problems:
No serious insect or disease problems. Swiss Chard may suffer from seedling blight, fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, aphids and caterpillars.
Tomatillo
How to Grow Tomatillo
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant the seed ¼ to 1/2” deep (they like to be covered).
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 75°F, optimal 65°F to 70°F, optimal 69°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Harden Off: 1 weeks after last frost date. Before transplanting outside you must harden off the seedlings, so they become accustomed to somewhat less than ideal conditions.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Bury most of the stem when transplanting and roots will form all along its length. If the plants are very leggy you should pinch out the lower leaves before planting. If the weather is cool at transplanting time, you can warm up the soil with cloches or black plastic.
Warm, Hot: Grow tomatillos like you would tomatoes, though they do not require staking and are more resistant to pests and diseases.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F.
Spacing: 24.0"-36.0", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Tomatillo plants can get quite big, so space them 24 to 36" apart each way to give them room to spread out.
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Crop Care:
Generally Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention.
Water Needs: Moderate. Tomatillos are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Generally, Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid Kelp when the flowers first appear.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row covers, 1 layers, while danger of early frost, 1 time. Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inches, at flowering, 1 time. A 2" mulch of straw is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 1 cups, at early fruit set, 1 time. Give each plant a cup of diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) after the first fruits are set.
Watering, before fruit set: Water, 1 gallons per plant, before fruit set, 2 times a week. Tomatillo is quite drought tolerant but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, during fruit production, 3 times a week
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest individual fruits when the husk begins to split or the fruit fills out the husk.
Storage:
Canning salsa will allow it to keep longer. After filling with contents, process the cans in a boiling hot water bath for 15 min (20 min if at altitudes 1,001-6,000). Store cans in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
If the jars have become unsealed or there are signs of spoilage (bulging lids, bubbling, or odor) do NOT taste and throw away immediately in a place not accessible by humans or animals.
Storage Req: Canning, Cool
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 0-360 days
Store Tomatillos like you do Tomatoes, on the counter for a couple of weeks.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Seed Saving:
Tomatillos are some of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any Tomatillo so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid. To get the seed, simply squeeze it from the ripe fruit.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
They are the main ingredient in salsa verde and other Mexican dishes.
Culinary Use:
The Tomatillo is important in Mexican cooking, for its use in salsa verde and other dishes. It is not usually eaten out of hand.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The fruit is a berry that is 2.5 cm or more in diameter. When not fully ripe, the fruit can be cooked and used in curries, sauces, soups, stews etc. A delicious flavoring when used like a tomato and added to soups, stews etc. The fully ripe fruit is sweeter and can be eaten out of hand, added to salads or used in pies, preserves etc. The plant conveniently wraps up each fruit in its own "paper bag" (botanically, the calyx) to protect it from pests and the elements. This calyx is toxic and should not be eaten. The fruit can be stored for up to a year if picked before they are fully ripe and left inside their calyx.
Known Hazards: All parts of the plant, except the fruit, are poisonous.
Companion Planting:
Marigolds and nasturtiums to attract pollinating bees. Basil, mint, chives, sage, parsley, garlic to repel insect pests. Capsicums, carrots, onions and brassicas grow well next to tomatillos.
Problems:
Subject to problems similar to other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be problems.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant the seed ¼ to 1/2” deep (they like to be covered).
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 75°F, optimal 65°F to 70°F, optimal 69°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Harden Off: 1 weeks after last frost date. Before transplanting outside you must harden off the seedlings, so they become accustomed to somewhat less than ideal conditions.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Bury most of the stem when transplanting and roots will form all along its length. If the plants are very leggy you should pinch out the lower leaves before planting. If the weather is cool at transplanting time, you can warm up the soil with cloches or black plastic.
Warm, Hot: Grow tomatillos like you would tomatoes, though they do not require staking and are more resistant to pests and diseases.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F.
Spacing: 24.0"-36.0", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Tomatillo plants can get quite big, so space them 24 to 36" apart each way to give them room to spread out.
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Crop Care:
Generally Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention.
Water Needs: Moderate. Tomatillos are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Generally, Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid Kelp when the flowers first appear.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row covers, 1 layers, while danger of early frost, 1 time. Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inches, at flowering, 1 time. A 2" mulch of straw is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 1 cups, at early fruit set, 1 time. Give each plant a cup of diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) after the first fruits are set.
Watering, before fruit set: Water, 1 gallons per plant, before fruit set, 2 times a week. Tomatillo is quite drought tolerant but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, during fruit production, 3 times a week
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Harvesting:
Ripening:
Harvest individual fruits when the husk begins to split or the fruit fills out the husk.
Storage:
Canning salsa will allow it to keep longer. After filling with contents, process the cans in a boiling hot water bath for 15 min (20 min if at altitudes 1,001-6,000). Store cans in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
If the jars have become unsealed or there are signs of spoilage (bulging lids, bubbling, or odor) do NOT taste and throw away immediately in a place not accessible by humans or animals.
Storage Req: Canning, Cool
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 0-360 days
Store Tomatillos like you do Tomatoes, on the counter for a couple of weeks.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Seed Saving:
Tomatillos are some of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any Tomatillo so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid. To get the seed, simply squeeze it from the ripe fruit.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste:
They are the main ingredient in salsa verde and other Mexican dishes.
Culinary Use:
The Tomatillo is important in Mexican cooking, for its use in salsa verde and other dishes. It is not usually eaten out of hand.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The fruit is a berry that is 2.5 cm or more in diameter. When not fully ripe, the fruit can be cooked and used in curries, sauces, soups, stews etc. A delicious flavoring when used like a tomato and added to soups, stews etc. The fully ripe fruit is sweeter and can be eaten out of hand, added to salads or used in pies, preserves etc. The plant conveniently wraps up each fruit in its own "paper bag" (botanically, the calyx) to protect it from pests and the elements. This calyx is toxic and should not be eaten. The fruit can be stored for up to a year if picked before they are fully ripe and left inside their calyx.
Known Hazards: All parts of the plant, except the fruit, are poisonous.
Companion Planting:
Marigolds and nasturtiums to attract pollinating bees. Basil, mint, chives, sage, parsley, garlic to repel insect pests. Capsicums, carrots, onions and brassicas grow well next to tomatillos.
Problems:
Subject to problems similar to other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be problems.
Tomato
How to Grow Tomato
Germination:
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 75°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 16 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date.
1. Seeds should be planted 1/4˝ or 1/2˝ deep in flats, soil blocks or cell packs.
2. Put in a warm place to germinate. They germinate best at a temperature of around 65 to 75˚ F during the daytime and 10˚ F lower at night.
Replant: 4-6 weeks before last frost date. You must now give the seedling everything it’s little green heart desires: water, humidity, warmth and all the nutrients it needs.
1. When their first true leaves appear, the plants should be transplanted to individual 4˝ pots.
2. Plant them deeper than they were growing, as they will produce roots all along the buried stem.
Harden Off: 1 week after last frost date. If you are planting Tomatoes out in cool spring conditions the transplants should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to slowly get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden off the transplants. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: The best time to transplant Tomatoes (or anything else) is on a warm cloudy day. If rain threatens even better. If you don’t get cloudy days, then transplant them in the early evening, not in the heat of the day. You can give Tomatoes a lot of attention while planting, because you don’t usually plant very many.
1. Dig a fairly large planting hole and amend it with a couple of handfuls of compost.
2. Plant the seedlings so most of the stem is buried (pinch off the lower leaves) and they will grow roots along the buried stem.
3. It is a good idea to put the supporting stakes, or cages, in the ground at this time, to avoid disturbing the plants later.
Very large or leggy plants can be planted sideways in a shallow trench. They will produce roots all along the buried stem and will benefit from the warmth of the shallow soil near the surface.
Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage.
Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Summer Crop: 4-12 weeks after last frost date. Sowing seed directly outdoors is only a practical proposition in areas with a very long growing season. Of course the problem with direct sowing is that the plants take up bed space from the moment they are planted, but don’t give any return for months. It is much more efficient to raise transplants in an outdoor nursery bed.
1. The seed should be planted 1/4-1/2˝ deep, after the soil has warmed up.
Pre-germinating the seed inside may help to speed things up.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Crop Care:
For highest productivity Tomatoes need a steady supply of available water and nutrients. If you give them all they need, they will respond by flowering earlier and fruiting more profusely.
Water Needs: Moderate. These deep-rooted plants are quite drought tolerant and don't really need a lot of water once they are established. In fact, keeping them dry encourages strong root growth. However you will get more and larger fruit if you keep the soil evenly moist once they start flowering and bearing fruit. Drip irrigation works well with tomatoes, as it keeps the soil evenly moist but the plants stay dry. Uneven watering may cause Blossom End Rot or cracking.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate phosphorus. High potassium. Tomatoes are quite heavy feeders. They have deep roots that may go down 5', but most of their feeder roots are in the top 2'.
Watering, regularly: Water 1 gallon regularly, 1 time a week. Water well after transplanting and keep the plants moist until they are well established.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of early frost, 1 time.
Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present. This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, or cardboard.
Protecting, while danger of late frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of late frost, 1 time. If a late frost threatens after you've put out your transplants you can protect them with row cover. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inches after planting 1 time. A mulch (2" of straw) is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon during fruit production, 2 times a week. Their most critical need for water is when the fruit is sizing up. Make sure the soil is kept moist at this time.
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If your soil isn't very fertile, you should give them a cup of diluted compost tea (or liquid kelp as directed) every 3 weeks when the plants start producing fruit. This is not necessary if your soil is very fertile.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Harvesting:
Ripening: They are fully ripe about a week after they turn 1-2 lbs., glowing orange. The fruit won't usually ripen below 55˚ F, or above 85˚ F. Sun isn't necessary for ripening, only warmth. Consequently fruits will ripen even in the dense shade in the middle of a plant.
Storage:
Mature tomatoes can be stored at 55-60ºF for 1 to 6 weeks. Make sure the area is moist (80-85% relative humidity). Cover with a paper bag and make sure the fruit don’t touch each other. Remove any that start to rot (check them regularly). To ripen, move mature green tomatoes to 68-72º F as needed (it takes about 2 weeks.)
Storage Req: Moist, Warm
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-28 days
Storing tomatoes in the fridge, or below 55˚ F impairs their flavor. They should keep for a week or two at 55 to 65˚ F (depending upon how ripe they are).
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Sun-dried tomatoes are made at 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit. Once dried, store in a cool, dry place. They can last 9 - 12 months in the freezer, or in the fridge for only a few weeks (they will be moldy in a month).
Storage Req: Drying, Freezer, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 7-360 days
Tomatoes can be peeled and frozen for storage (peel by dipping in boiling water), or you can freeze the puree.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Canning provides a long storage option as long as temperatures stay consistent, 55 to 70˚ F is the optimum.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Tomatoes are one of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any tomato so long as it is open-pollinated and not a hybrid.
To get the seed, simply squeeze it from the ripe fruit (eat the rest), add a little water and let it ferment in a warm place for a few days. Then scrape the scum from the top and rinse the seeds several times to remove bits of flesh. Strain the cleaned seed and dry it, first on paper towels and then in a warm dry place.
Generally tomatoes are self pollinated and you don't need to worry about cross pollination or isolation, you just save seed from the ripe fruit when you eat them. A few varieties may cross pollinate to some extent (to get technical you can usually tell these because they have long stigmas on the flower that extend out beyond the petals).
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Unique sweet tangy flavor.
Culinary Use: This large size tomato in a variety of colors is the ultimate sweetness and flavor of the summer. Use in salads or sliced alone with onion, olive oil and fresh herbs it can be a meal. They can also be slow roasted and grilled.
Fruit: raw or cooked. It can be used as a savory vegetable or flavoring in cooked foods, or can be eaten out of hand as a dessert fruit. It is much used in salads and as a flavoring in soups and other cooked foods. A juice made from the fruit is often sold in health food shops. The fruit can also be dried and ground into a powder that can be used as a flavoring and thickening agent in soups, breads, pancakes etc. An edible oil is obtained from the seed. Suitable for culinary purposes. The seed is small and it would be very fiddly to utilize. It is only viable to use the seed as a source of oil if large quantities of the plants are being grown for their fruits and the seed is not wanted.
Medicinal:
The pulped fruit is an extremely beneficial skin-wash for people with oily skin. Sliced fruits are a quick and easy first aid treatment for burns, scalds and sunburn. A decoction of the root is ingested in the treatment of toothache. The skin of tomato fruits is a good source of lycopine, a substance that has been shown to protect people from heart attacks. It seems to be more effective when it is cooked and so can be obtained from food products such as tomato ketchup and tinned tomatoes. Lycopine has also been shown to have a very beneficial effect upon the prostate and is being used increasingly to treat enlarge prostate and the difficulties in urination that accompany this disorder. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism and severe headaches.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pea, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth.
Enemies: keep corn and tomato apart as they are attacked by the same worm. Known as the corn earworm or tomato fruitworm. In the caterpillar phase of its life, it causes damage to fresh sweet corn by burrowing into the tops and in tomatoes, they chew a hole in the stem end, ruining the fruit, and in peppers they form small brown holes as they bore in and out of the developing fruit. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep apricot, dill, fennel, cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a disease that attacks tomatoes growing underneath these trees.
Problems:
Disease problems include anthracnose, bacterial spot, early blight, fusarium wilt, late blight, verticillium wilt and viruses. Insect pests include tomato hornworms, aphids, Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, cutworms and whiteflies. Watch also for physiological disorders such as blossom end rot, catfacing, blossom drop, leaf roll and sunscald.
Other Uses:
The strong aroma of this plant is said to repel insects from nearby plants. A semi-drying oil is obtained from the seed. It can be used in making soap. A spray made from tomato leaves is an effective but very poisonous insecticide. It is especially effective against ants but should be used with great caution because it will also kill beneficial insects and, if ingested, is toxic to humans. The pulp of the fruit is used cosmetically in face-packs.
Start Indoors:
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 75°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 16 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date.
1. Seeds should be planted 1/4˝ or 1/2˝ deep in flats, soil blocks or cell packs.
2. Put in a warm place to germinate. They germinate best at a temperature of around 65 to 75˚ F during the daytime and 10˚ F lower at night.
Replant: 4-6 weeks before last frost date. You must now give the seedling everything it’s little green heart desires: water, humidity, warmth and all the nutrients it needs.
1. When their first true leaves appear, the plants should be transplanted to individual 4˝ pots.
2. Plant them deeper than they were growing, as they will produce roots all along the buried stem.
Harden Off: 1 week after last frost date. If you are planting Tomatoes out in cool spring conditions the transplants should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to slowly get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden off the transplants. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Transplant Outdoors:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: The best time to transplant Tomatoes (or anything else) is on a warm cloudy day. If rain threatens even better. If you don’t get cloudy days, then transplant them in the early evening, not in the heat of the day. You can give Tomatoes a lot of attention while planting, because you don’t usually plant very many.
1. Dig a fairly large planting hole and amend it with a couple of handfuls of compost.
2. Plant the seedlings so most of the stem is buried (pinch off the lower leaves) and they will grow roots along the buried stem.
3. It is a good idea to put the supporting stakes, or cages, in the ground at this time, to avoid disturbing the plants later.
Very large or leggy plants can be planted sideways in a shallow trench. They will produce roots all along the buried stem and will benefit from the warmth of the shallow soil near the surface.
Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage.
Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Start Outdoors:
When Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Summer Crop: 4-12 weeks after last frost date. Sowing seed directly outdoors is only a practical proposition in areas with a very long growing season. Of course the problem with direct sowing is that the plants take up bed space from the moment they are planted, but don’t give any return for months. It is much more efficient to raise transplants in an outdoor nursery bed.
1. The seed should be planted 1/4-1/2˝ deep, after the soil has warmed up.
Pre-germinating the seed inside may help to speed things up.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Crop Care:
For highest productivity Tomatoes need a steady supply of available water and nutrients. If you give them all they need, they will respond by flowering earlier and fruiting more profusely.
Water Needs: Moderate. These deep-rooted plants are quite drought tolerant and don't really need a lot of water once they are established. In fact, keeping them dry encourages strong root growth. However you will get more and larger fruit if you keep the soil evenly moist once they start flowering and bearing fruit. Drip irrigation works well with tomatoes, as it keeps the soil evenly moist but the plants stay dry. Uneven watering may cause Blossom End Rot or cracking.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate phosphorus. High potassium. Tomatoes are quite heavy feeders. They have deep roots that may go down 5', but most of their feeder roots are in the top 2'.
Watering, regularly: Water 1 gallon regularly, 1 time a week. Water well after transplanting and keep the plants moist until they are well established.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of early frost, 1 time.
Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present. This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, or cardboard.
Protecting, while danger of late frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of late frost, 1 time. If a late frost threatens after you've put out your transplants you can protect them with row cover. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inches after planting 1 time. A mulch (2" of straw) is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon during fruit production, 2 times a week. Their most critical need for water is when the fruit is sizing up. Make sure the soil is kept moist at this time.
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If your soil isn't very fertile, you should give them a cup of diluted compost tea (or liquid kelp as directed) every 3 weeks when the plants start producing fruit. This is not necessary if your soil is very fertile.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Harvesting:
Ripening: They are fully ripe about a week after they turn 1-2 lbs., glowing orange. The fruit won't usually ripen below 55˚ F, or above 85˚ F. Sun isn't necessary for ripening, only warmth. Consequently fruits will ripen even in the dense shade in the middle of a plant.
Storage:
Mature tomatoes can be stored at 55-60ºF for 1 to 6 weeks. Make sure the area is moist (80-85% relative humidity). Cover with a paper bag and make sure the fruit don’t touch each other. Remove any that start to rot (check them regularly). To ripen, move mature green tomatoes to 68-72º F as needed (it takes about 2 weeks.)
Storage Req: Moist, Warm
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-28 days
Storing tomatoes in the fridge, or below 55˚ F impairs their flavor. They should keep for a week or two at 55 to 65˚ F (depending upon how ripe they are).
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Sun-dried tomatoes are made at 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit. Once dried, store in a cool, dry place. They can last 9 - 12 months in the freezer, or in the fridge for only a few weeks (they will be moldy in a month).
Storage Req: Drying, Freezer, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 7-360 days
Tomatoes can be peeled and frozen for storage (peel by dipping in boiling water), or you can freeze the puree.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Canning provides a long storage option as long as temperatures stay consistent, 55 to 70˚ F is the optimum.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Seed Saving:
Tomatoes are one of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any tomato so long as it is open-pollinated and not a hybrid.
To get the seed, simply squeeze it from the ripe fruit (eat the rest), add a little water and let it ferment in a warm place for a few days. Then scrape the scum from the top and rinse the seeds several times to remove bits of flesh. Strain the cleaned seed and dry it, first on paper towels and then in a warm dry place.
Generally tomatoes are self pollinated and you don't need to worry about cross pollination or isolation, you just save seed from the ripe fruit when you eat them. A few varieties may cross pollinate to some extent (to get technical you can usually tell these because they have long stigmas on the flower that extend out beyond the petals).
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Unique sweet tangy flavor.
Culinary Use: This large size tomato in a variety of colors is the ultimate sweetness and flavor of the summer. Use in salads or sliced alone with onion, olive oil and fresh herbs it can be a meal. They can also be slow roasted and grilled.
Fruit: raw or cooked. It can be used as a savory vegetable or flavoring in cooked foods, or can be eaten out of hand as a dessert fruit. It is much used in salads and as a flavoring in soups and other cooked foods. A juice made from the fruit is often sold in health food shops. The fruit can also be dried and ground into a powder that can be used as a flavoring and thickening agent in soups, breads, pancakes etc. An edible oil is obtained from the seed. Suitable for culinary purposes. The seed is small and it would be very fiddly to utilize. It is only viable to use the seed as a source of oil if large quantities of the plants are being grown for their fruits and the seed is not wanted.
Medicinal:
The pulped fruit is an extremely beneficial skin-wash for people with oily skin. Sliced fruits are a quick and easy first aid treatment for burns, scalds and sunburn. A decoction of the root is ingested in the treatment of toothache. The skin of tomato fruits is a good source of lycopine, a substance that has been shown to protect people from heart attacks. It seems to be more effective when it is cooked and so can be obtained from food products such as tomato ketchup and tinned tomatoes. Lycopine has also been shown to have a very beneficial effect upon the prostate and is being used increasingly to treat enlarge prostate and the difficulties in urination that accompany this disorder. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism and severe headaches.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Allies: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pea, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth.
Enemies: keep corn and tomato apart as they are attacked by the same worm. Known as the corn earworm or tomato fruitworm. In the caterpillar phase of its life, it causes damage to fresh sweet corn by burrowing into the tops and in tomatoes, they chew a hole in the stem end, ruining the fruit, and in peppers they form small brown holes as they bore in and out of the developing fruit. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep apricot, dill, fennel, cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a disease that attacks tomatoes growing underneath these trees.
Problems:
Disease problems include anthracnose, bacterial spot, early blight, fusarium wilt, late blight, verticillium wilt and viruses. Insect pests include tomato hornworms, aphids, Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, cutworms and whiteflies. Watch also for physiological disorders such as blossom end rot, catfacing, blossom drop, leaf roll and sunscald.
Other Uses:
The strong aroma of this plant is said to repel insects from nearby plants. A semi-drying oil is obtained from the seed. It can be used in making soap. A spray made from tomato leaves is an effective but very poisonous insecticide. It is especially effective against ants but should be used with great caution because it will also kill beneficial insects and, if ingested, is toxic to humans. The pulp of the fruit is used cosmetically in face-packs.
Turnip
How to Grow Turnip
Germination:
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Turnip is a cool weather plant and needs cold to encourage it to store sugars in the root, rather than make foliage. In warm weather the roots often become pungent, bitter and woody. This is why spring planted turnips are rarely as good as those planted as a fall crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Turnip seed germinates quickly even at low temperatures
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Square Foot: Space the plants 3" apart.
Intensive beds: Space the plants 3-4" apart.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date. Sow the seeds outside 2 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost. Note that as it gets warmer the flavor of the Turnips will deteriorate.
1. Broadcast or sow in drills.
2. Sow the seeds 1/4-1/2˝ deep and 1-4" apart for greens. Sow 2-6" apart for roots.
Fall Crop:
8-10 weeks before first frost date. Turnips do much better as a fall crop, as they have a longer period of cool weather. There are also less problems from insect pests. Fall Turnips are planted from July to September, so they reach maturity just before it starts to get cold.
1. Broadcast or sow in drills.
2. Sow the seeds 1/4-1/2˝ deep and 1-4" apart for greens. Sow 2-6" apart for roots.
Support: No
Crop Care:
The best turnips are those that have grown rapidly, which can only occur if the plants have everything they need in the way of nutrients, light and water.
Water Needs: Moderate. Turnips don't need a lot of water, but it should be available constantly and not fluctuate too much. If the soil gets too dry, they can get woody and may even bolt. Water, 0.5 inch, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the soil evenly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low phosphorous. Low potassium. Turnips don't require a lot of nitrogen, unless you are growing them for greens, as this encourages foliage growth rather than root growth.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, 1 time a week Turnip can tolerate some weeds once it is established, but should be weeded carefully while small.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after sowing, 1 time. Give the plants a feed of compost tea, or liquid kelp (used as directed), once they get going (not too much nitrogen though).
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is useful to prevent the soil drying out, to suppress weeds and to keep the soil cool.
Thinning, when 4" tall: 4" apart, when 4" tall, 1 time. Like other direct sown root crops, turnips need careful thinning and weeding. You can use the thinnings in the kitchen.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Watch your plant because bolting is a common problem. Harvest earlier than later, watch your days to maturity and about 1 or 2 weeks before full maturity, pull a plant and test to see if it's ready. If it bolts, you can also eat the flowers.
Storage:
In milder areas they can be left outside under mulch.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
The root can be cut into cubes and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
The roots can be stored in a root cellar at 34 to 40˚ F (if it’s warmer than this they will eventually start growing).
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Seed Saving:
Turnips are cross pollinated by insects (that's why they have pretty flowers), so only one variety can be flowering within a half mile. The most common method of obtaining seed is to plant it in late summer, protect it over the winter (inside or outside), and allow it to flower in spring. It should be planted in blocks so insects are likely to visit many plants without going to other plants nearby. You collect the dry pods when they are ripe (they shatter easily so watch carefully), sift out the seeds, dry further and store. In milder areas turnips may self-seed if given the opportunity.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Mild and sweet turnip.
Culinary Use: Small tender turnips can be eaten with the skin while larger turnips require peeling. Turnips can be roasted, steamed, used in soups, stews or pureed. In the South, turnips are often cooked with their greens. Turnips go well with other root vegetables such as carrots, celery root and parsnips.
Leaves: raw or cooked. The cooked leaves make an acceptable vegetable, though they are coarser than the related cabbage. They are more often used as a spring greens, sowing the plants in the autumn and allowing them t overwinter. Young leaves can also be added in small quantities to salads, they have a slightly hot cabbage-like flavor and some people find them indigestible.
Root: raw or cooked. Often used as a cooked vegetable, the young roots can also be grated and eaten in salads, they have a slightly hot flavor like a mild radish.
Medicinal:
A decoction of the leaves or stems is used in the treatment of cancer. The powdered seed is said to be a folk remedy for cancer. The crushed ripe seeds are used as a poultice on burns. Some caution should be exercised here since the seed of most brassicas is rubefacient. The root when boiled with lard is used for breast tumors. A salve derived from the flowers is said to help skin cancer.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Peas are good companions for turnips due to their nitrogen fixing in the soil. Cabbage does well with turnips because of the turnip's tendency to repel certain pests.
Enemies: Do not plant potatoes, radishes or other root vegetables near your turnips. These vegetables will compete for nutrients with the turnips and reduce crop size and yield. Other plants that do not do well with turnips are delphinium, larkspur and mustard.
Problems:
Turnips are susceptible to the same pests as other brassicas: slugs & snails, cutworms, cabbage worms, wireworms, and flea beetles. Diseases include fusarium wilt, southern blight, soft rot, black rot, brown heart, damping off, and powdery mildew. Woody turnips may be caused by insufficient water or fertilizer or delayed harvesting.
Other Uses:
Turnip root peelings contain a natural insecticide. The chopped roots can be brewed into a tea with flaked soap, this is then strained before use. It is effective against aphids, red spider mites and flies.
Start Outdoors:
When Cold, Cool: Turnip is a cool weather plant and needs cold to encourage it to store sugars in the root, rather than make foliage. In warm weather the roots often become pungent, bitter and woody. This is why spring planted turnips are rarely as good as those planted as a fall crop.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 85°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Turnip seed germinates quickly even at low temperatures
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Square Foot: Space the plants 3" apart.
Intensive beds: Space the plants 3-4" apart.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date. Sow the seeds outside 2 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost. Note that as it gets warmer the flavor of the Turnips will deteriorate.
1. Broadcast or sow in drills.
2. Sow the seeds 1/4-1/2˝ deep and 1-4" apart for greens. Sow 2-6" apart for roots.
Fall Crop:
8-10 weeks before first frost date. Turnips do much better as a fall crop, as they have a longer period of cool weather. There are also less problems from insect pests. Fall Turnips are planted from July to September, so they reach maturity just before it starts to get cold.
1. Broadcast or sow in drills.
2. Sow the seeds 1/4-1/2˝ deep and 1-4" apart for greens. Sow 2-6" apart for roots.
Support: No
Crop Care:
The best turnips are those that have grown rapidly, which can only occur if the plants have everything they need in the way of nutrients, light and water.
Water Needs: Moderate. Turnips don't need a lot of water, but it should be available constantly and not fluctuate too much. If the soil gets too dry, they can get woody and may even bolt. Water, 0.5 inch, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the soil evenly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low phosphorous. Low potassium. Turnips don't require a lot of nitrogen, unless you are growing them for greens, as this encourages foliage growth rather than root growth.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, 1 time a week Turnip can tolerate some weeds once it is established, but should be weeded carefully while small.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after sowing, 1 time. Give the plants a feed of compost tea, or liquid kelp (used as directed), once they get going (not too much nitrogen though).
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is useful to prevent the soil drying out, to suppress weeds and to keep the soil cool.
Thinning, when 4" tall: 4" apart, when 4" tall, 1 time. Like other direct sown root crops, turnips need careful thinning and weeding. You can use the thinnings in the kitchen.
Support: No
Harvesting:
Ripening: Watch your plant because bolting is a common problem. Harvest earlier than later, watch your days to maturity and about 1 or 2 weeks before full maturity, pull a plant and test to see if it's ready. If it bolts, you can also eat the flowers.
Storage:
In milder areas they can be left outside under mulch.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
The root can be cut into cubes and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
The roots can be stored in a root cellar at 34 to 40˚ F (if it’s warmer than this they will eventually start growing).
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Seed Saving:
Turnips are cross pollinated by insects (that's why they have pretty flowers), so only one variety can be flowering within a half mile. The most common method of obtaining seed is to plant it in late summer, protect it over the winter (inside or outside), and allow it to flower in spring. It should be planted in blocks so insects are likely to visit many plants without going to other plants nearby. You collect the dry pods when they are ripe (they shatter easily so watch carefully), sift out the seeds, dry further and store. In milder areas turnips may self-seed if given the opportunity.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary:
Taste: Mild and sweet turnip.
Culinary Use: Small tender turnips can be eaten with the skin while larger turnips require peeling. Turnips can be roasted, steamed, used in soups, stews or pureed. In the South, turnips are often cooked with their greens. Turnips go well with other root vegetables such as carrots, celery root and parsnips.
Leaves: raw or cooked. The cooked leaves make an acceptable vegetable, though they are coarser than the related cabbage. They are more often used as a spring greens, sowing the plants in the autumn and allowing them t overwinter. Young leaves can also be added in small quantities to salads, they have a slightly hot cabbage-like flavor and some people find them indigestible.
Root: raw or cooked. Often used as a cooked vegetable, the young roots can also be grated and eaten in salads, they have a slightly hot flavor like a mild radish.
Medicinal:
A decoction of the leaves or stems is used in the treatment of cancer. The powdered seed is said to be a folk remedy for cancer. The crushed ripe seeds are used as a poultice on burns. Some caution should be exercised here since the seed of most brassicas is rubefacient. The root when boiled with lard is used for breast tumors. A salve derived from the flowers is said to help skin cancer.
Pure Plant And Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting:
Companions: Peas are good companions for turnips due to their nitrogen fixing in the soil. Cabbage does well with turnips because of the turnip's tendency to repel certain pests.
Enemies: Do not plant potatoes, radishes or other root vegetables near your turnips. These vegetables will compete for nutrients with the turnips and reduce crop size and yield. Other plants that do not do well with turnips are delphinium, larkspur and mustard.
Problems:
Turnips are susceptible to the same pests as other brassicas: slugs & snails, cutworms, cabbage worms, wireworms, and flea beetles. Diseases include fusarium wilt, southern blight, soft rot, black rot, brown heart, damping off, and powdery mildew. Woody turnips may be caused by insufficient water or fertilizer or delayed harvesting.
Other Uses:
Turnip root peelings contain a natural insecticide. The chopped roots can be brewed into a tea with flaked soap, this is then strained before use. It is effective against aphids, red spider mites and flies.